Wow! You just pointed out what should have been obvious to me! I forgot all about the timing wire bypassing the computer. This will tell me right away what my problem is
This could also be caused by a bad pickup coil in the distributor. I believe autozone can test the ICM but don’t buy one there. Get it from a higher quality supplier like NAPA.
(95 1500 tbi) when all else fails, check the tach wire at the coil for ground.. If it has constant ground, a quick fix to get ya rolling is to clip it. The coil is signaled by ecm through the other white wire found in the second connector on the coil and these 2 splice into pine another inside the coil. The tach wire is finding a ground (i haven't began my search for it so ill try to get back here with an update) and that ground is trying to energize the coil anytime you hit the key and with enough time burns up the coil.. So if clip the wire orfix the ground, but still no spark.. Test your coil that you've likely just replaced or had replaced.. Hope this is helpful to someone nonethless
What's up everybody, I have a 95 Silverado. Kinda had the same problem, I put a towing cam in it this past summer and the computer went nuts trying to figure out what to do. I racked my brain for a week or so till I watched this video. All I had to do was unhook that single wire plug( 95 is under the dash on passenger side) and leave it unhooked set my timing and let the icm do the job. Runs like a champ
I have a 1991 k1500 5.7 did a complete tune up except coil, ran great for 100 miles, now experiencing a flat out no power situation, runs rough idle and can not pull a hill or gain speed at all except over time. I can put my foot into it and sometimes it will act normal until I take my foot out of it but than it acts like not running in all cylinders. Oh yes revolution the throttle body as well thanks Don
My husband has 98 Sierra he has changed everything,hoping this is his problem...will turn over but won't fire...we had no clue about an ecm,until this web search,hes outside ride now hunting down that black tan wire,trying to do what you said for retiming... praying it works..thanks alot for the video
Good info. Thank you. I replaced the complete distributor,coil,cap,rotor,plug,and plug wires. Set timing and started up. Set base timing. Shut off truck and will not start back. Any ideas ?
Where is the Electronic Spark control module located on 1993 Gmc Sierra 4.3 6 cylinder? The book we bought says near the throttle body or behind the distributor mounted to the fire wall. We can't seem to find it
I have a 1991 chevrolet k1500. I changed my throttle body gasket and started the truck up and noticed a minor leak so I shut the truck off. After I tightened the hose I went to go start the truck again and had no fire. I changed the cap and rotor and cleaned the module but still have no fire. Having trouble find the brown wire but I was wondering if you may have an other idea to why I would not be getting fire?
hey great video you explain things very well that help so much! so my truck 89 chevy 250 it seems to run well but limps around 55 mph and doesn't want to go faster pulling a light boat. so i checked codes since the light came on and they read 32 and 43. the 32 says map sensor and 43 is bypass ignition signal failed. what's your opinion here. i was going to get the map sensor but what do i replace for 43? thanks again for the help you give.
I have a 93 k1500 that runs perfect with the advance unplugged, as soon as I plug the advance back in i have to pour fuel down the throttle body for it to start. After it starts it will run but to me it sounds like it has a fuel knock or the timing is off. Any ideas?
Ok thank you very much for your kind answer, the dealer has the new pickup coil and also the distributor cap and rotor, will hey have to change the distributor shaft?
I've got a 89 k1500 with no spark. I've put an inline tester on 2 different plugs and it flashes once when I turn the key on and nothing while cranking. I tried the bypass you showed and still no spark.
i believe if you crank it and have fuel pressure out the injectors the pickup coil in the distributor is good.....went thru this on my 92 astro....thought i had bad coil but it was the ignition control module that was junk...the module sends a signal back to the coil to spark so dont assume its bad coil right away..
thanks this is helpful i still aint got no spark after doing all the same mess its a 1996 454 in a Winnebago i wonder how to set the timing or if i need to also can i set it without running by just cranking?
Just looked at your video I got a 1994 chev 1500 Cheyenne I haveing trouble some times it will start and run when not in gear then I put it reverse and it will cut off and don't want to start no more I would have to put gas in the carberrader to start .. can you help me with this problem..
Thanks for this I just had to put new coil connectors on where someone had cut them off my 87 v20 and had a old school coil on it so I put it back factory.
Good advice,.... i have a 93Sierra that never stalls but often will not start do to no spark...then one day when it feels like it she'll start ! Should of never gone away from good ole points !
Haha, well I do agree that the ICM is a finicky module and it does not like heat at all. Don't buy a cheap one either or it will not last long. I doubt OEM modules even exist nowadays though :(
I have 94 GMC tbi 4.3 v6 vortec, was driving it, shut down like u turn key off no back fire, pop, no noise, I've checked it no spark, will crank but want start, what's my troubles, also have just replaced cap button an wires (+spark plugs) took ingintion modugel off had it checked an was good
Nice video I’ve been looking for advice on upgrading the engine that I am running. I just purchased a 1990 454 cubic inch engine installed in a motor home. 55000 original miles means it was parked most of the time. My other car is a 2003 Express 3500 with a 6.0 liter engine. It has coil on plug ignition which I fell in love with. Trouble free for 330000 miles so far. Is there any way to modernize the 454? Right now I’m just replacing the plugs and wires and haven’t looked at the distributor yet. Thanks for your input.
I'm having a starting issue, I have a 94 1500, I replaced the motor with 1 out of a 89 model, new plugs and wires are on it!! If I were to do this would this be the culprit?! I did not replace the computer or anything! Its spinning over but wont turn over for me. Any ideas would be appreciated!!
I have a 92 GMC Sierra V6 5spd.. I'm having issues with starting the engine.. it'll turn over but won't start.. May have a compression issue.. at first my fiance and I could spray some starter fluid into the intake and it would fire up.. what are some tips or thoughts on the issue?
Sounds like it's fuel related. When it fired up on starter fluid, did it run ok? Try cycling the key 3-4 times to prime up the system. Make sure the oil pressure gauge is showing pressure when cranking, a bad oil pressure sending unit could possibly quit sending power to the pump. I'd rule out the pump/wiring/relay before looking at the injectors.
I have a 92 gmc k1500 350. Only thing I have not replaced was the Ignition Control Module Relay. I ordered it see what that does. Currently it acts like no vacuum advance. It cuts out won’t pull. I had a pulsing idle replaced the knocks sensor that solved that I’m almost at 100 percent now. I’ll put that Ignition Control Module Relay in see if that’s it. I changed the cap and rotor wires and plugs. New coil as well. New ecm new computer. I bought this truck brand new so only the Ignition Control Module Relay hasn’t been replaced. Can anyone give me suggestions please?
I have a 94 Chevy suburban k1500 350tbi and the ecm fuse keeps blowing randomly and can’t figure out why it only does it randomly wondering if you have any insight on how to trouble shoot it
I gotta question I have 92 chevy k1500 after tightening thepower wire to the ALTERNATOR my fuel pump wires burnt I replace the wires where the burned a little that issue resolved but while doin so I hooked them straight to the battery to test the pump it still work UT after wiri g it back correctly I have no cli king no spark absolutely nothing when I turn to the key to try and crank the the truck
I'm hoping you can answer this. My truck has a rough idle like it's not advancing the timing. I have done cap, rotor, coil, ignition control module and even the distributor at this point. When we unhooked the wire to set the base timing the truck dies. It show's a code 42 which comes up as ignition bypass circuit error.
I have a 94 silverado 5.7 same setup, mine will start and run for 30 but when gets hot no power when pushing on gas and will misfire idle ok, but when i jigle that bunch of wires were that brown wire is some times fixes it for a couple months but some time not? whats the relay on the firewall do thats really hot? thx dan
i have a 92 s10 pick up and this may be my problem, i changed the coil and cleaned up distributor but still randomly starts, I'll try ti unplug the brown wire you pointed out and see if it helps, thanks
It should still crank with the ICM before swapping to the ECM. The brown wire connects the ECM to the distributor. The only time you should have to disconnect the brown wire is to do the initial timing.
Hey regarding that wire that isolates ignition from ECM...I have a 1991 Chevy 1500 and there's a plug there but it's white with black stripe. I unplugged it and tried to start but still no start. My issue is either ECM, ignition module, or pickup coil. I wish I could post a pic of mine. It's in the same area you pointed to but is a different color.
hello Farmboy..could you help get wire, by wire to cup of ditributor in order I did changed before but some came rong and my truck doent run smood thanks for your help....
i have a 89 gmc pickup....Getting alot of engine interference on the radio and gets worse as the rpms go up....old days id replace the capacitor under the distributor....everything is all plug ins on the radio. not sure how to check a ground..any suggestions?
Great video, but I can't figure out why my 95 GMC Sierra sometimes runs great but when you kill it it's lible to not crank again for a week, sometimes I can pull it off but it's got me puzzled any answers?
Heat kills them more than anything. First though, always buy from a quality auto parts store like NAPA. Don't buy them from Autozone, I've seen multiple failures with those. Next, always use heat sink paste and make sure the heat sink is clean when installing.
i have an unrelated question. i have same setup, recently had to replace ignition module under distributor cap. its run fine for a while, until starting up a hill the other day and all of a sudden got a loud rattling clanking noise from engine, and loss of oil pressure down to half (20) instead of 40. any ideas? the top side looks good all rockers move good, bottom side looks okay as far as i can tell, didnt get anything out of oil pan. whats your suggestion
Doesn't sound good. Loss of oil pressure sounds like a clearance issue. Maybe spun bearing? I'd definitely want to pull a couple of bearing caps off and look. Good luck.
Maybe you can help. I have a 89 k5 blazer that wont start after I've been driving around town. Usually it starts within half hour to an hour. I have power to everything but wont crank at all. I drove it to my in laws and when it was time to go it would not crank. The next day it started with no problem??? Like I said I have power to everything..
Will it crank right back up after it shuts off? If it does, it probably isn't the ignition control module. If it has to cool off, then I'd suspect the ICM.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor tests, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It retains the memory of results. There's another without the OBDI cables and it has the same tester. It comes in a black pouch. It has a cigarette lighter adaptor. Out-of-the- box it tests from 1984-2013. It is updatable with a USB cable from EBAY. It comes with OBDI cables for Ford, G.M, Chrysler, and Toyota, and a OBDII adaptor. There are penlight batteries under the cover at the small screw. It is well- lit! EBAY has it.
Hi. I have a 1995 3/4 ton chevy Kingcab 8ft bed 4x4 with a 454 TBI. The issue that I am having is that my injectors are spraying to much fuel into the intake and thats causing it to flood out the plugs and then shuts off. There is an MSD ignition box under my hood on the firewall could that be a possibility? I have changed both my temperature sensors (side of block) and (front of intake by thermostat housing. And it still. Sprays to much fuel and backfires. What other possibilities could there be. Thanks an advance. Mike
1990 Silverado, 5.7 all lights on dash work when turning key to on, try to start and nothing, starter wont rotate but still powers everything. tried two brand new starters, same problem. one day it starts, sometimes it doesnt at all. Any suggestions?
Please help -Ok I have a 88 with the same coil - on the side with the thicker wire -the wire wire comes out of the plug that goes to the cap that plugs into the coil comes out and is cut - it’s Allways been like that - where is it supposed to go 🤷🏾♂️
I have a 90 chevy 1500 carberator parts were stolen with truck recovered vechile and finally back together all parts have been replaced any ideas I have a truck now no crank no start no click don't hear fuel pump kick on as well seems like something not powered could starter and solenoid not connected right cause problems
Could that why effect it on start up? I had to change my oil pressure sending unit and when I put my distributer back in timing was right but on start up it wants to die right away but if you give it alil gas and let it idle at about 2000rpm for about 30seconds then it's okay.
When you timed the distributor, did you unplug the wire so that the computer wouldn't effect the timing? Not sure, but it sounds more like a problem with the Idle Air controller.
Hello, I'm attempting a MSD Streetfire HEI distributor, I ran a pigtail for the coil, but how do I connect the 4wire harness for TBI pulse? Stock distributor is 2plug, and this new distributor only requires 2pin in?
farmboy30117 The stock is an 8 pin controller, electronic controlled, and the new streetfire is a 4 pin, vacuum advanced. I just need a signal to pulse the injectors. Will the "B" bypass pin provide timing pulse to injectors?
I have a 1991 K1500 350. I was driving down the highway last night and it started sputtering then died. It has been stalling out the past few days sometimes when I am in gear and stopped at a light or if I drive at very low speeds. I smell fuel when trying to crank and we sprayed some brake cleaner in the top. Changed the control module in the distributor out with a known good module still the same. We noticed that the spark in our tester was very orange and dim, it usually is bright blue. There was some dirt on the contacts inside the distributor but we cleaned them off and the spark plugs looked OK but probably need changed soon.. but still should be operable. Any suggestions? The motor, distributor cap and entire distributor motor is less than a year old.
Well it's either going to be fuel or ignition related it sounds like. I assume it cranks right back up? Have you changed the fuel filter recently? No codes?
When we use our spark tester (small tube put inline with the spark plugs), the spark is very dim. It is normally a bright blue color. We have replaced the entire distributor module and I swapped out the starter with a new one just for good measure because I have a lifetime warranty on all of the parts. It still will not start.. the only thing I think I can check for is to see if it has an ignition relay thats gone bad or the ignition switch itself is bad. Why would it have a weak spark?
Looking at a 93 Chevrolet, decent looking truck. Guy says it had some wires cuts so he bought a wiring harness... Question is, how difficult is it with replacing the harness ? And or maybe just the ignition part of the wiring harness...
Yea I change fuel pump ,injecters,ignition module , thinking it was that . nothing so then we went and check the grond on the injecters and no spry so that's the issue . I tested it by touching on any ground and spayed.. but how can I fix this problem... i really appreciated your help ...
solid angel did u find out whats wrong ? i have same issue. lots of new parts pump. injectors. distr. n ign. all of a sudden i crank and no spray whats going on?
I have a question for you I have a 94 Chevy Z71 5.7 TBI. I thought I had a fuel deliver problem come to find out I have a spark issue once my truck starts after multiple times trying it'll start all day long. Now in the morning when I leave to work Beetle crank and crank and crank but will not start finally after 10 minutes of cranking it'll fire up and I'll go to work. Now at the end of the day I'll give him my truck to come home same thing crank and crank and crank and no start after while it'll start up that once it starts it'll start fine all day long if I'm driving to the store or whatever. But it's the long-term sitting overnight into the next day or all day long at the end of the day's work is where I'm not having a spark. Please help me with this the distributor was replaced about 3 years ago everything brand new what do you think it is? Please help
David, if you're sure it's not sparking, then it generally is something in the distributor (or coil) causing the issue. It does sound like a fuel issue to me. Did you use a good quality distributor when you replaced it? Some cheaper ones use crappy pickup coils. Funny that it starts after 10 minutes of cranking, usually ignition control modules go bad when they heat up from my experience. Good luck!
hey farmboy I've got a 1995 chevy g20 van 5.7l I've replaced the cap,rotor button,coil, icm,computer and plugs and it spins over fine I've got spark I've got fuel I've got compression but it will not fire just spins over won't even start off starting fluid any ideas would be greatly appreciated
i have a 1990 chevy blazer 5.7 k5 i been having a miss in thengine n a hesitation when I press the throttle ive replaced cap,rotor,wires,plugs,coil,n ignition mogel n i replaced the whole distributer n still has the hesitate n miss been hoin on for a few weeks but now when I drive it for over a half hour or more it starts to bog out n backfire then shut off but starts back up and running it will do this a few times then i gota let it sit for bout 20min then sometimes it will start back up......help
+Edwin Padilla You didn't mention a check engine light, so all the sensors are probably ok. Looks like you've ruled out the ignition system, so one thing to check is a clogged exhaust (usually the catalytic converter), too much back pressure can cause strange things. If that isn't the issue, I'd look at the fuel system and make sure your fuel pressure is adequate. Hope this helps and good luck.
I have a 94 1500 5.7 swapped engine w a 92 suburban 5.7 have spark and fuel but only pops? I changed pick-up coil do I have to unplug the pcm to get it to work?
I have a 1989 s10. I'm getting Spark and fuel I was driving and it just shut off wont start back up I change the ICM inside the distributor my cap and rotor are good I got new plugs and wires haven't been able to test the fuel pressure yet someone said check out the crank positioning sensor I'm just lost any help would be nice thank you
My 1987 Chevy r10 running rough and cutting off when I put it in gear what could be the problem new fuel pump filter O2 sensor temperature sensor idle air control sensor map sensor still doing it
Is there supposed to be battery voltage from the coil to the icm? My 1991 chevy 5.7 decided to not start last night. No spark. Replaced the icm hoping that would solve it. Now I'm stuck.
@@Michael-wk4yo Kind of funny this came up. Last few week, my pickup was running like crap. Getting crappy fuel mileage. Apparently I didn't put loctite on the distributor bolt when replaced the distributor. It backed out and slowly spun my distributor. If your pickup coil is bad and you replace your distributor, make sure you use loctite on that bolt! Good luck!
I had the same issue several years ago. It was the pickup coil but I just replaced the entire distributor. It was easier and cheaper than just the coil.
Quick question. I have a 94 Silverado c2500 with a 5.7L. If I use starting fluid it starts and runs fine. No starting fluid it just cranks till the cows come home. This started after using engine degreaser and power washing it off. It started fine after the spray and I let it run for a bit to dry everything up. Was looking fir an oil leak. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@farmboy30117 Ok, so replaced the fuel pump relay, same issue, reset the computer and it was flashing code 21, read about it... cut a hole in the bed and replaced the fuel pump... not the problem... Its a long bed so was not able to lift it myself and I filled the tank like a day before this started... Today went and got a fuel filter and a new TPS... Replaced both of them and now it works fine, my code 21 is no longer there so guessing it was the TPS that caused the issue. I can honestly say after reseting the computer the idle is perfect now and it even seems to run better! Thanks for your help man very very much appreciated!
Great video! I have a 1992 GMC Sierra never had a problem until today. Let the batter die and gave myself a jump truck started up fine but shut off! Now will not start. It cranks but won’t turn over!! Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
This worked! Purchased a truck with “no spark” 30 second fix!! Thank you!
I am so grateful that you made this video. God bless you and your Family
Thanks Charles! I'm glad it helped!
@@farmboy30117 I could use help on same issue same engine.
Mannnnn you're a lifesaver. 800 in towing, 3 sets of plug wires later i appreciate this.
Try gettng aaa roadside. 5 free tows every year
Wow! You just pointed out what should have been obvious to me! I forgot all about the timing wire bypassing the computer. This will tell me right away what my problem is
Thank you brother. Can't wait for it to get daylight so I can check this. Replaced my head gaskets and hasn't started since. No spark.
This could also be caused by a bad pickup coil in the distributor. I believe autozone can test the ICM but don’t buy one there. Get it from a higher quality supplier like NAPA.
This video is pure gold thank you!
Very good information- you made it easy to understand- thank you -God Bless
Thank You so much sir. I appreciate learning auto mechanics from people who can explain in a common sense manner. Have A Great Day! 🛻🚤🏖️
Thanks, you too!
(95 1500 tbi) when all else fails, check the tach wire at the coil for ground.. If it has constant ground, a quick fix to get ya rolling is to clip it. The coil is signaled by ecm through the other white wire found in the second connector on the coil and these 2 splice into pine another inside the coil. The tach wire is finding a ground (i haven't began my search for it so ill try to get back here with an update) and that ground is trying to energize the coil anytime you hit the key and with enough time burns up the coil.. So if clip the wire orfix the ground, but still no spark.. Test your coil that you've likely just replaced or had replaced.. Hope this is helpful to someone nonethless
hi i had replaced the clips that go to the distributor.my truck would start with starter fluid but now it doesn’t can it be the coil?
@@559Obsalexsame here with my caprice. How did you resolve it?
So my issue is the tachometer wire, how did you fix the issue permanently. I would love have operating tachometer as well lol
What's up everybody, I have a 95 Silverado. Kinda had the same problem, I put a towing cam in it this past summer and the computer went nuts trying to figure out what to do. I racked my brain for a week or so till I watched this video. All I had to do was unhook that single wire plug( 95 is under the dash on passenger side) and leave it unhooked set my timing and let the icm do the job. Runs like a champ
Awesome! Glad it helped :)
How did you set the timing
So u unhooked the ICM witch is the PCM correct.... And u left it unplugged
I have a 1991 k1500 5.7 did a complete tune up except coil, ran great for 100 miles, now experiencing a flat out no power situation, runs rough idle and can not pull a hill or gain speed at all except over time. I can put my foot into it and sometimes it will act normal until I take my foot out of it but than it acts like not running in all cylinders. Oh yes revolution the throttle body as well thanks Don
Thanks man. My buddy’s 93 k1500 4.3 crank, no start was due to the ignition control module.
Yeah, that's pretty common. Glad it helped!
@@farmboy30117 every morning i have no spark and have to replace my pickup coil. Any idea on what to test
Thank you a million times over for taking the time to make this video, I truly appreciate it, you have helped me out. Great video.
Thanks, I'm glad it helped!
farmboy30117 what if the car runs ok but i keept that black / tan wire unpluged what will happe ? thanks man hope u replay to me
farmboy30117 what if no spark still after distributor changed .igintion module. The pink wire is getting no power whatsoever
My husband has 98 Sierra he has changed everything,hoping this is his problem...will turn over but won't fire...we had no clue about an ecm,until this web search,hes outside ride now hunting down that black tan wire,trying to do what you said for retiming... praying it works..thanks alot for the video
@@mikeanderson1994lol lll
Finally someone showing stuff on a 454!
And yes this ain't a 454 but it's the same, and helped me figure out the issue on my 454
Can the ignition module be placed away from the distributor? Can I mount it against the firewall with a heat-sink?
Good info. Thank you. I replaced the complete distributor,coil,cap,rotor,plug,and plug wires. Set timing and started up. Set base timing. Shut off truck and will not start back. Any ideas ?
Thanks for sharing the details.
Where is the Electronic Spark control module located on 1993 Gmc Sierra 4.3 6 cylinder? The book we bought says near the throttle body or behind the distributor mounted to the fire wall. We can't seem to find it
Thanks for info, trouble with my 89 tbi also.
I have a 1991 chevrolet k1500. I changed my throttle body gasket and started the truck up and noticed a minor leak so I shut the truck off. After I tightened the hose I went to go start the truck again and had no fire. I changed the cap and rotor and cleaned the module but still have no fire. Having trouble find the brown wire but I was wondering if you may have an other idea to why I would not be getting fire?
hey great video you explain things very well that help so much! so my truck 89 chevy 250 it seems to run well but limps around 55 mph and doesn't want to go faster pulling a light boat. so i checked codes since the light came on and they read 32 and 43. the 32 says map sensor and 43 is bypass ignition signal failed. what's your opinion here. i was going to get the map sensor but what do i replace for 43? thanks again for the help you give.
I have a 93 k1500 that runs perfect with the advance unplugged, as soon as I plug the advance back in i have to pour fuel down the throttle body for it to start. After it starts it will run but to me it sounds like it has a fuel knock or the timing is off. Any ideas?
Thank you, Sir, for the heads-up...
Ok thank you very much for your kind answer, the dealer has the new pickup coil and also the distributor cap and rotor, will hey have to change the distributor shaft?
It's possible that something is bad on the shaft, but not too common.
Hey I'm having the same problem as a couple of the guys on here mines a code 42 tho and it says it's the est how do I go about fixing this problem
I've got a 89 k1500 with no spark. I've put an inline tester on 2 different plugs and it flashes once when I turn the key on and nothing while cranking.
I tried the bypass you showed and still no spark.
thank you this is very helpful I will try tomorrow and update you
You guys kick ass thanks for the info
Your video was very helpful, well displayed. Thank you.
I'm glad it helped!
gr8 video very helpful with key information TY
Clean and dry under the hood👌
i believe if you crank it and have fuel pressure out the injectors the pickup coil in the distributor is good.....went thru this on my 92 astro....thought i had bad coil but it was the ignition control module that was junk...the module sends a signal back to the coil to spark so dont assume its bad coil right away..
thanks this is helpful i still aint got no spark after doing all the same mess its a 1996 454 in a Winnebago i wonder how to set the timing or if i need to also can i set it without running by just cranking?
Just looked at your video I got a 1994 chev 1500 Cheyenne I haveing trouble some times it will start and run when not in gear then I put it reverse and it will cut off and don't want to start no more I would have to put gas in the carberrader to start .. can you help me with this problem..
Can you tell if a 95 to 93 4.3 will go in a 81 4.1 without any problems
Thanks for this I just had to put new coil connectors on where someone had cut them off my 87 v20 and had a old school coil on it so I put it back factory.
Good advice,.... i have a 93Sierra that never stalls but often will not start do to no spark...then one day when it feels like it she'll start ! Should of never gone away from good ole points !
Haha, well I do agree that the ICM is a finicky module and it does not like heat at all. Don't buy a cheap one either or it will not last long. I doubt OEM modules even exist nowadays though :(
I have 94 GMC tbi 4.3 v6 vortec, was driving it, shut down like u turn key off no back fire, pop, no noise, I've checked it no spark, will crank but want start, what's my troubles, also have just replaced cap button an wires (+spark plugs) took ingintion modugel off had it checked an was good
How do you replace a 93 Chevy 3500 with a 5.7 v8 manual control box wiring hardness
I have a cap on my distributor. The screw keeps sinning and wont come loose any suggestions
Thanks I needed to know that as I'm working on a 90 Silverado with a no spark issue😮
Very good job help me out a lot
Nice video I’ve been looking for advice on upgrading the engine that I am running. I just purchased a 1990 454 cubic inch engine installed in a motor home. 55000 original miles means it was parked most of the time. My other car is a 2003 Express 3500 with a 6.0 liter engine. It has coil on plug ignition which I fell in love with. Trouble free for 330000 miles so far. Is there any way to modernize the 454? Right now I’m just replacing the plugs and wires and haven’t looked at the distributor yet. Thanks for your input.
You you can do what ever you want to it. You can run coil on plugs all the way to a stand alone ecm. Just takes a lot of money
I'm having a starting issue, I have a 94 1500, I replaced the motor with 1 out of a 89 model, new plugs and wires are on it!! If I were to do this would this be the culprit?! I did not replace the computer or anything! Its spinning over but wont turn over for me. Any ideas would be appreciated!!
Will it fire on starting fluid?
Whats the red inline fuse thats has an orange wire on other end on the distribution fuse block
What is the tack that the white wire is connected to
Hell yeah thanks for the information
Glad it helped!
My Chevy Caprice 305 has no power when I put in fresh battery. What should I do?
your a good man to help people God bless u sir
Thanks Luke!
I have a 92 GMC Sierra V6 5spd.. I'm having issues with starting the engine.. it'll turn over but won't start.. May have a compression issue.. at first my fiance and I could spray some starter fluid into the intake and it would fire up.. what are some tips or thoughts on the issue?
Sounds like it's fuel related. When it fired up on starter fluid, did it run ok? Try cycling the key 3-4 times to prime up the system. Make sure the oil pressure gauge is showing pressure when cranking, a bad oil pressure sending unit could possibly quit sending power to the pump. I'd rule out the pump/wiring/relay before looking at the injectors.
I have a 92 gmc k1500 350. Only thing I have not replaced was the Ignition Control Module Relay. I ordered it see what that does. Currently it acts like no vacuum advance. It cuts out won’t pull. I had a pulsing idle replaced the knocks sensor that solved that I’m almost at 100 percent now. I’ll put that Ignition Control Module Relay in see if that’s it. I changed the cap and rotor wires and plugs. New coil as well. New ecm new computer. I bought this truck brand new so only the Ignition Control Module Relay hasn’t been replaced. Can anyone give me suggestions please?
I have a 94 Chevy suburban k1500 350tbi and the ecm fuse keeps blowing randomly and can’t figure out why it only does it randomly wondering if you have any insight on how to trouble shoot it
Sounds like a wire with a bad spot that grounds out every now and then. Have to trace the power wires out and see if any are chaffed.
I gotta question I have 92 chevy k1500 after tightening thepower wire to the ALTERNATOR my fuel pump wires burnt I replace the wires where the burned a little that issue resolved but while doin so I hooked them straight to the battery to test the pump it still work UT after wiri g it back correctly I have no cli king no spark absolutely nothing when I turn to the key to try and crank the the truck
I'm hoping you can answer this. My truck has a rough idle like it's not advancing the timing. I have done cap, rotor, coil, ignition control module and even the distributor at this point. When we unhooked the wire to set the base timing the truck dies. It show's a code 42 which comes up as ignition bypass circuit error.
What was setting the code 42?
Did you ever figure it out
The coil failure will keep fuel from pumping also so no spark-no fuel will occur.
Mine has spark but no pump on fuwl
I have a 94 silverado 5.7 same setup, mine will start and run for 30 but when gets hot no power when pushing on gas and will misfire idle ok, but when i jigle that bunch of wires were that brown wire is some times fixes it for a couple months but some time not? whats the relay on the firewall do thats really hot? thx dan
My 88 does the same thing runs fine when cold but warms up it misfires under load and sometimes dies at idle
i have a 92 s10 pick up and this may be my problem, i changed the coil and cleaned up distributor but still randomly starts, I'll try ti unplug the brown wire you pointed out and see if it helps, thanks
It should still crank with the ICM before swapping to the ECM. The brown wire connects the ECM to the distributor. The only time you should have to disconnect the brown wire is to do the initial timing.
@@farmboy30117 ok, well i think its my distributor and rotor, what a ding dong i didn't check for spark first and just did and there's nothing. thanks
Hey regarding that wire that isolates ignition from ECM...I have a 1991 Chevy 1500 and there's a plug there but it's white with black stripe. I unplugged it and tried to start but still no start. My issue is either ECM, ignition module, or pickup coil.
I wish I could post a pic of mine. It's in the same area you pointed to but is a different color.
I've heard they are in different areas depending on the year.
hello Farmboy..could you help get wire, by wire to cup of ditributor in order I did changed before but some came rong and my truck doent run smood thanks for your help....
i have a 89 gmc pickup....Getting alot of engine interference on the radio and gets worse as the rpms go up....old days id replace the capacitor under the distributor....everything is all plug ins on the radio. not sure how to check a ground..any suggestions?
There is a ground isolator I believe that is supposed to reduce ignition noise.
Great video, but I can't figure out why my 95 GMC Sierra sometimes runs great but when you kill it it's lible to not crank again for a week, sometimes I can pull it off but it's got me puzzled any answers?
Impossible to diagnose over the internet. When it won't crank, check fuel and spark to see which one you don't have. That'll help narrow it down.
Sir can you tell me if there is a difference in a 94 and a 95 engine tbi 4.3 foe a s10 chevy pick up
I know they went to a vortec 4.3L which had a balancing shaft in it. Not sure if it was '94 or '95 though, but I'm thinking it was '94.
What would be blowing a ignition module? I've had to put three in my 91 gmc 2500 sierra just dont know what it could be.
Heat kills them more than anything. First though, always buy from a quality auto parts store like NAPA. Don't buy them from Autozone, I've seen multiple failures with those. Next, always use heat sink paste and make sure the heat sink is clean when installing.
i have a 95 Chevy 1500 5.7 with a hesitation stumbling problem, changed out EGR valve etc, runs rough codes say running lean!
any ideas?
@Ricky definitely most likely cause of lean exhaust.
What wiring plugs into the block behind the drivers side tire? Someone cut mine
i have an unrelated question. i have same setup, recently had to replace ignition module under distributor cap. its run fine for a while, until starting up a hill the other day and all of a sudden got a loud rattling clanking noise from engine, and loss of oil pressure down to half (20) instead of 40. any ideas? the top side looks good all rockers move good, bottom side looks okay as far as i can tell, didnt get anything out of oil pan. whats your suggestion
Doesn't sound good. Loss of oil pressure sounds like a clearance issue. Maybe spun bearing? I'd definitely want to pull a couple of bearing caps off and look. Good luck.
where is the negative wire on the elect ignition
what about only one injector working (left) and no spray from other so running on half carb and i dont have a tbi tester
Can you swap the connector from the good injector to the bad one and see if the injector works?
quick question. would you happend to know where that wire is on a 305 5.0 tbi engine on 1990 caprice classic? thanks in advance mr. farm boy
No, sorry. If it's not on the firewall, look around the PCM under the dash.
thanks man!! I've changed almost evreything and no go. your video helped me have a better understanding of the start up process.thanks again
glad it helped
Maybe you can help. I have a 89 k5 blazer that wont start after I've been driving around town. Usually it starts within half hour to an hour. I have power to everything but wont crank at all. I drove it to my in laws and when it was time to go it would not crank. The next day it started with no problem??? Like I said I have power to everything..
Sounds like a bad/weak starter motor that won't crank after getting hot.
Thanks Brother best one on RUclips!!
You're welcome!
@@farmboy30117 you got me back on the road ! Thanks again!
i have a 1995 chevy c3500 454. it will run and drive but shut off shortly after. do you think this could be the problem?
Will it crank right back up after it shuts off? If it does, it probably isn't the ignition control module. If it has to cool off, then I'd suspect the ICM.
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Hi. I have a 1995 3/4 ton chevy Kingcab 8ft bed 4x4 with a 454 TBI. The issue that I am having is that my injectors are spraying to much fuel into the intake and thats causing it to flood out the plugs and then shuts off. There is an MSD ignition box under my hood on the firewall could that be a possibility? I have changed both my temperature sensors (side of block) and (front of intake by thermostat housing. And it still. Sprays to much fuel and backfires. What other possibilities could there be.
Thanks an advance.
Mike
I'm guessing, but it sounds like an issue with the Throttle body. Not getting enough air? Dirty? Injectors worn out?
1990 Silverado, 5.7 all lights on dash work when turning key to on, try to start and nothing, starter wont rotate but still powers everything. tried two brand new starters, same problem. one day it starts, sometimes it doesnt at all. Any suggestions?
i have a 82 gmc and i get lights on dash when i turn the key on but i get nothing at all ytrying to start it
NCS on transmission or look under mate on driver's side you will see black tar tap under it is a fuse
thanks for the info sir.
Please help -Ok I have a 88 with the same coil - on the side with the thicker wire -the wire wire comes out of the plug that goes to the cap that plugs into the coil comes out and is cut - it’s Allways been like that - where is it supposed to go 🤷🏾♂️
I believe the white wire would go to a tachometer
I have a 90 chevy 1500 carberator parts were stolen with truck recovered vechile and finally back together all parts have been replaced any ideas I have a truck now no crank no start no click don't hear fuel pump kick on as well seems like something not powered could starter and solenoid not connected right cause problems
I'd suspect something wrong in the ignition switch.
Could that why effect it on start up? I had to change my oil pressure sending unit and when I put my distributer back in timing was right but on start up it wants to die right away but if you give it alil gas and let it idle at about 2000rpm for about 30seconds then it's okay.
When you timed the distributor, did you unplug the wire so that the computer wouldn't effect the timing? Not sure, but it sounds more like a problem with the Idle Air controller.
No I didn't not unplug that thing. I had no idea about that plug until I watched this
Hello, I'm attempting a MSD Streetfire HEI distributor, I ran a pigtail for the coil, but how do I connect the 4wire harness for TBI pulse? Stock distributor is 2plug, and this new distributor only requires 2pin in?
I've never done a swap like that before, but is the HEI distributor computer controlled or vacuum advanced?
farmboy30117 The stock is an 8 pin controller, electronic controlled, and the new streetfire is a 4 pin, vacuum advanced. I just need a signal to pulse the injectors. Will the "B" bypass pin provide timing pulse to injectors?
I would contact MSD and see what they have to say. I have no idea.
I have a 1991 K1500 350. I was driving down the highway last night and it started sputtering then died. It has been stalling out the past few days sometimes when I am in gear and stopped at a light or if I drive at very low speeds. I smell fuel when trying to crank and we sprayed some brake cleaner in the top. Changed the control module in the distributor out with a known good module still the same. We noticed that the spark in our tester was very orange and dim, it usually is bright blue. There was some dirt on the contacts inside the distributor but we cleaned them off and the spark plugs looked OK but probably need changed soon.. but still should be operable. Any suggestions? The motor, distributor cap and entire distributor motor is less than a year old.
Well it's either going to be fuel or ignition related it sounds like. I assume it cranks right back up? Have you changed the fuel filter recently? No codes?
No, it will not crank.. Turns over and we smell fuel. Spark seems very weak.
When we use our spark tester (small tube put inline with the spark plugs), the spark is very dim. It is normally a bright blue color. We have replaced the entire distributor module and I swapped out the starter with a new one just for good measure because I have a lifetime warranty on all of the parts. It still will not start.. the only thing I think I can check for is to see if it has an ignition relay thats gone bad or the ignition switch itself is bad. Why would it have a weak spark?
matron81 did you find out what it was?
Looking at a 93 Chevrolet, decent looking truck. Guy says it had some wires cuts so he bought a wiring harness... Question is, how difficult is it with replacing the harness ? And or maybe just the ignition part of the wiring harness...
I wouldn't think the engine harness would be too bad. There's not a lot of sensors compared to later models.
Yea I change fuel pump ,injecters,ignition module , thinking it was that . nothing so then we went and check the grond on the injecters and no spry so that's the issue . I tested it by touching on any ground and spayed.. but how can I fix this problem... i really appreciated your help ...
Sounds like it isn't getting a ground signal from the computer. Might be a bad connection, wire, or PCM.
solid angel the ignition module can go bad to where it still has spark but doesn't send a signal to the ecm telling it to power the injectors.
solid angel did u find out whats wrong ? i have same issue. lots of new parts pump. injectors. distr. n ign. all of a sudden i crank and no spray whats going on?
Your problem is the computer
My gas gauge pegs out when it starts registering gas it will crank and run then any ideas
I have a 94 2500 5.0 liter I have no spark getting fuel I replaced plugs wires distributor and coil still no spark need help
I have a question for you I have a 94 Chevy Z71 5.7 TBI. I thought I had a fuel deliver problem come to find out I have a spark issue once my truck starts after multiple times trying it'll start all day long. Now in the morning when I leave to work Beetle crank and crank and crank but will not start finally after 10 minutes of cranking it'll fire up and I'll go to work. Now at the end of the day I'll give him my truck to come home same thing crank and crank and crank and no start after while it'll start up that once it starts it'll start fine all day long if I'm driving to the store or whatever. But it's the long-term sitting overnight into the next day or all day long at the end of the day's work is where I'm not having a spark. Please help me with this the distributor was replaced about 3 years ago everything brand new what do you think it is? Please help
David, if you're sure it's not sparking, then it generally is something in the distributor (or coil) causing the issue. It does sound like a fuel issue to me. Did you use a good quality distributor when you replaced it? Some cheaper ones use crappy pickup coils. Funny that it starts after 10 minutes of cranking, usually ignition control modules go bad when they heat up from my experience. Good luck!
I'm replacing ignition coil and the bolt is stuck! Any suggestions!?
Maybe soak it in penetrating oil. I hope someone didn't put locktite on it. Good luck!
hey farmboy I've got a 1995 chevy g20 van 5.7l
I've replaced the cap,rotor button,coil, icm,computer and plugs and it spins over fine I've got spark I've got fuel I've got compression but it will not fire just spins over won't even start off starting fluid any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Knock sensor in front of starter
i have a 1990 chevy blazer 5.7 k5 i been having a miss in thengine n a hesitation when I press the throttle ive replaced cap,rotor,wires,plugs,coil,n ignition mogel n i replaced the whole distributer n still has the hesitate n miss been hoin on for a few weeks but now when I drive it for over a half hour or more it starts to bog out n backfire then shut off but starts back up and running it will do this a few times then i gota let it sit for bout 20min then sometimes it will start back up......help
+Edwin Padilla You didn't mention a check engine light, so all the sensors are probably ok. Looks like you've ruled out the ignition system, so one thing to check is a clogged exhaust (usually the catalytic converter), too much back pressure can cause strange things. If that isn't the issue, I'd look at the fuel system and make sure your fuel pressure is adequate. Hope this helps and good luck.
Very helpful, thank you
I have a 94 1500 5.7 swapped engine w a 92 suburban 5.7 have spark and fuel but only pops? I changed pick-up coil do I have to unplug the pcm to get it to work?
Sounds like the timing is off. Unplug the wire from the PCM to the coil and set the initial timing with a timing light
Thanks I'll give it a try
I have a 1989 s10. I'm getting Spark and fuel I was driving and it just shut off wont start back up I change the ICM inside the distributor my cap and rotor are good I got new plugs and wires haven't been able to test the fuel pressure yet someone said check out the crank positioning sensor I'm just lost any help would be nice thank you
I'm sorry it's the 4.3 V6
My 1987 Chevy r10 running rough and cutting off when I put it in gear what could be the problem new fuel pump filter O2 sensor temperature sensor idle air control sensor map sensor still doing it
A dirty throttle body would be my guess
Is there supposed to be battery voltage from the coil to the icm? My 1991 chevy 5.7 decided to not start last night. No spark. Replaced the icm hoping that would solve it. Now I'm stuck.
Me too bro did you figure it out
@@Michael-wk4yo Pickup coil in distributor.
@@Michael-wk4yo Kind of funny this came up. Last few week, my pickup was running like crap. Getting crappy fuel mileage. Apparently I didn't put loctite on the distributor bolt when replaced the distributor. It backed out and slowly spun my distributor. If your pickup coil is bad and you replace your distributor, make sure you use loctite on that bolt! Good luck!
On the side of the coil where one wire is bigger than the other, where is that little white wire supposed to be hooked to?
I believe the white wire would go to a tachometer.
I need help 92 Chevrolet c1500 with 4.3 tbi ive got fire at the coil but no spark at the plug wires
Bad rotor dirty distributor cap
I'm getting fuel but no spark what do you think is?? Truck was running great than it wouldn't start out of no where
I had the same issue several years ago. It was the pickup coil but I just replaced the entire distributor. It was easier and cheaper than just the coil.
Quick question. I have a 94 Silverado c2500 with a 5.7L. If I use starting fluid it starts and runs fine. No starting fluid it just cranks till the cows come home. This started after using engine degreaser and power washing it off. It started fine after the spray and I let it run for a bit to dry everything up. Was looking fir an oil leak. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like a fuel issue but very weird for a gas engine to act like this. No idea on this one.
@@farmboy30117 I noticed off or the key on no fuel comes out of the injectors. So guess I can start tracing and testing there
@@hangoversamuiadmin3163 Maybe start with the fuel pump relay
@@farmboy30117 Will do, thanks for the help
@@farmboy30117 Ok, so replaced the fuel pump relay, same issue, reset the computer and it was flashing code 21, read about it... cut a hole in the bed and replaced the fuel pump... not the problem... Its a long bed so was not able to lift it myself and I filled the tank like a day before this started... Today went and got a fuel filter and a new TPS... Replaced both of them and now it works fine, my code 21 is no longer there so guessing it was the TPS that caused the issue. I can honestly say after reseting the computer the idle is perfect now and it even seems to run better! Thanks for your help man very very much appreciated!
I have a 93 silverado fuel pump works and i changed ignition module and still no spark any ideas?
Pickup coil or primary coil could be bad
Great video! I have a 1992 GMC Sierra never had a problem until today. Let the batter die and gave myself a jump truck started up fine but shut off! Now will not start. It cranks but won’t turn over!! Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Did u find out the problem same exact problem same truck
Replaced a lot of parts