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How To Repair Cut or Damaged Floor Joist - Bolting New Joist To Existing
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- Опубликовано: 31 мар 2015
- www.homebuildingandrepairs.com... Click on this link for more information about home repairs. This is the last video in our three-part series on how to repair floor joist that is been cut. This is an actual example of a method used one time for a damaged floor joist repair that was given to me by a structural engineer. Don't forget to watch the other videos for more information on floor framing joist repairs.
I watched your videos last spring and ended up talking with you about cutting out a section of my garage and replacing with a block wall.. project went great when I removed the weight from the temp wall, the building didn't even creak..
Getting ready to repair my floor joists in the hous, and here I am nosing through your videos again lol
Thanks for thes vids.. you don't have to do this, and you do.. guys like you are changing the world for us little people .. thanks for what you do; you're changing the world !!
Well I'm glad you're back and thanks for the kind words.
Nice videos! San Jose, CA wants the both ends supported these days (so you end up with a doubler basically). I recently resolved some sagging above my kitchen with this approach (full length) and found the Simpson 3"x1/4" SDS screws made the engineer and inspectors happy. They're really easy to install compared to drilling for bolts & they seem to pull the wood together much better then nails.
+Weston Schmidt I think it's always going to be better to have the joist running full-length and the ends sitting on structural supports like a beam or footing.
I purchased an attachment for my 1/2 hammer drill. It makes 90 degree drilling without purchasing a special right angle drill. It comes in handy when wiring too.
u-joint
thank you so much. I have been so stressed with this I have not even thought about just replacing them. I went and bought 5 new 2x10x20 joists today so I'm going to replace them. do you think I should sister the existing joists with the new ones or just replace entirely? also could I replace them from above if I remove the subfloor? so that way I won't have to move the furnace? also after the new joists are in do you recommend building a small support wall underneath the new joists. thank you so much .
Greg, I find your videos extremely helpful. I plan on using many of your recommendations. My dilemma is that my girder beam(s) up to 16 feet, floor joists and rim joist and sill (8) ft.are dry rotted. Which one do I repair first? I understand I must sister floor joists to have good wood to lift with. I am removing some of the subfloor. PLease give me a reply. Thank you
I would
-measure corner to corner in the joist space and keep it a little shy so you can fit it in.
-cut your pony joist
-set it on the exterior point load wall
-pl400 and screw it
-there should be enough to add a 2x12 at the opposite end for additional support on the middle or end load wall.
Any structural engineer would approve this method.
ps. minimum overlap to poney a joist is 4' i always double it and go 8' double sided glew n screw.
Thank you for producing these videos, they are very helpful! I have a joist that is cut completely through - just like is shown in this video. Several others are cracked or notched. What type of contractor would you recommend for repairing floor joists? I've read that a general contractor or a handyman would be the best bet, but there seems to be a scarcity of these in my area. If you respond, I greatly appreciate it!
Excellent information.
Thanks Greg! I'm going to need to sister ceiling joists on a 20 foot run. Your videos helped inform me that the builder of my home addition before I bought this didn't use the correct sizing under the upstairs wall. It is slowly dropping just under that heavy wall. None of this will be easy to access. I will need to remove the dry wall under the ceiling and it will be pretty disruptive. But not as much as full failure of the structure. I sistered joists before in a worse condition. It was under another home that only I and my small girlfriend could crawl. I secured the beam so sister with large bolts and glue. To bring the floor to level, I had to dig and put a jack screw and beam underneath the sagging joist. Once level, the sistering was completed by myself and my tiny girlfriend. The space under that house isn't accessible unless you are very small build. A tenant allowed a large fish tank to overflow numerous times which damaged the joist below resulting in sagging. Needless to say, I won't allow fish tanks anymore.
Keep up the good work and no water beds either.
Should have linked to your other videos
Great video! Thanks!
Well then thank you for commenting and you're welcome.
I need to put in a bathroom ventilation fan. Unfortunately, the ceiling joists run parallel to the exterior wall. There's at least 2-3 of them in the way. Doubt it's safe to drill 3" holes in them. Is there a safe solution which doesn't require a bulkhead? Maybe steel joists?
hello sir. First let me say that I really enjoyed how information on your video wise. Very useful! Now, moving on to more important matters as it were. I have 3 floor joists that have been compromised by water. One of them has about 2 inches missing on the floor bearing side of it as it meets the outside wall. I, because of this damage, am NOT able to drill into this Joyce because it is so soft. Not mushy, but brittle from I don't know how many years of exposure to water. Should I go ahead and sister the joist with two 2x 10's to ensure its stability?
+Christopher Smith Yes, install a new floor joist next to the damaged one, without attaching it to it and then remove the damaged one, if possible. I think it self-explanatory, but I wouldn't have a problem making a video if you needed one.
Thank you for your video. Could i used shorter span of joist? I dont have the access to the below floor. The cut is 3 inches and i can only fit 20 inches of new joist right by it. Would that be an issue?
Btw this is right below shower pan
Great Video series, Greg! Thank You for sharing the information, and your CAD illustrations really help us Newbies. What CAD software are you using for the videos?
+Joe FromRomeo You're welcome and thanks for watching, Google sketchup
Curious what can you do when there is a pipe through the joist still
I actually need to add joists in my basement in order to support the main floor and for the purpose of supporting a post that will be above the joists. The post will be used to support a beam on the main floor. It would be much easier to install the joists if I could cut them in two before installing them and then bolt the new and original joists together.
The idea of this video was to provide you with an idea for a repair, but it wouldn't be a good idea to cut joist that need to be added to carry a structural load. If you want, send me some pictures of your project and I will see if I have any ideas. The email address can be found by clicking on our webpage link in the RUclips comment area.
Thank you for the video.
My electrician has made a foolish mistake by cutting the ceiling stud to enforce the down light.
2 day ago, I've noticed there is a tiny crack in ceiling gyprok and when I removed the down light I have noticed the stud 10x5 has been cut to reinforce the down light.
How can I repair a broken stud?
Your electrician did better than one I know.
Good information ! I live in a 70 year old single story farm house built by my grandfather after the original house that burned . Being a salvager who tore down old building he used old lumber from 100 year old buildings. Consequently the floor joists are over 150 years old and some are wet or dry rotted. He extended the new construction over the basement using the old walls as bearing walls and poured a new foundation around it. As a result the newer perimeter wall settled over the years causing the floor to be higher over the old walls and some of the joists are cracked. The joists are in three unequal spans, the one over the basement being 12 feet. Would you recommend replacing them full length over sistering them ?
+rorger balcer I would recommend replacing them if possible.
Funny I'm doing a similar job right now. A joist cracked from a drill hole for 220 line. Bottom third of a 2 by 12. Dropped about a 1/2 inch. I actually prefer bolts and doubling up the sister . I guess over kill but prefer it over then under. Lol was double checking the bolt pattern so I appreciate the video. But I also like taking it straight across the distance
Thanks for sharing your story and it's always going to be better to go full-length with the joist if possible so that each and can sit on top of a load bearing beam or footing.
Awesome video! How far past the notch would you have to run the joist? And is it possible to not run the new joist all the way to the sill if there are utlitites in the way?
I don't think I can provide you with an answer, because I don't know what you're dealing with. For free to send me some pictures of your problem for more information and you can get our email address at our website.
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge boss. I do have a question and need of your advise. How would you repair an standing stud that is damage from the very bottom.
I would add one next to it or remove and replace it. You can cut out the damaged stud, before or after installing new stud if there isn't a lot of weight above it and make sure you nail the existing stud to the new one.
I would need to install support on both sides of my ceiling rafters with one room.
You mentioned weight bearing. I must make sure the weight limit is premium quality. Is that something that would be seperate from the bolts that would sister to the original
Maybe plywood or large metal washers. If that doesn't make sense, please provide me with more details.
I want to get your opinion on cracked rough cut joists. There are wires running through them on each end of the joist, so sistering another complete joist to the cracked one is out of the picture. I was thinking about sandwiching 3/4 plywood on each side (guled and nailed) as far as i can either direction and stopping at the wires. Thoughts?
If the cracks are larger than a quarter of an inch, then you might be dealing with lumber failure and the lumber might need to be replaced. Feel free to send me some pictures for more information and you can get our email address at the website.
I know this is an old post but as far as overlap goes, I've been told, double up twice the distance that is spanned for repair. If you have to repair 2 foot span, overlap 4 feet onto old work. But that was some time ago, not sure if things have changed. Oh, and they recommended gluing and nailing on 10" (or 5" staggered) as you show in video) in addition to
I've never heard about the span formula, but it sounds good. As far as gluing or using adhesives, the reason why I didn't mention it is because on the projects I worked on using methods like these, they weren't called out for by the engineer. It seems like it will provide additional strength, but I'm not entirely convinced that it's needed.
We are remodeling our kitchen this weekend. We know there was ongoing leakage under the sink so we are sure there is damage to the sub-floor and most likely the joist as well. When repairing the joist with a sister do we remove the rotten wood from the damaged piece up to a good spot in the wood? I'm concerned that contact with the damaged parts will eventually damage the new piece.
Yes, remove as much of the damaged wood as you can and it would be best if you could remove all of it. Sometimes the fungus or mold can damage new wood.
you may be able to help me. Have you seen any examples of sistering or repairing floor joists in balloon construction homes? I noticed the joists in my basement are notched and sitting on 8x8 timbers which rest upon the foundation walls. A few of the joists have cracked at the notch allowing the floor to sag and bounce. I saw something saying if I do decide to notch the new timbers to drill a hole and then cut so that the corner would be a radius and much stronger.
I wonder if it would be better to use hangers or attach a 2 x 4 to the 8 x 8 beam. Feel free to send me some pictures if you need more information and I don't know if the radius thing actually works.
Great Info & thanks for your videos. How Do I Sister Joint to a joist thats warped. If I were to sister join with new wood it would not be flat against the old joist because it it warped
If they're warped or deformed then they might need to be replaced.
Greg,
I have an issue where my load bearing area is damaged. The joist is very soft and I am looking to repair it. Would the side bolting method be a good one for this type of repair?
If it's a load bearing area, then I would replace the lumber. It might work but I don't think I would do it. Feel free to send me some pictures of your problem, if you need more information and you can get our email address at the website.
Greg I have a center beam that has a split in the middle I want to use the lag bolts every 16in on Center 6 in lag bolts for the 7x7 Center beam can I do this to just pull up the beam a little bit and slide Lally columns underneath it
It's difficult for me to tell exactly what you're going to do, but it seems like the support column would definitely help. Feel free to email some pictures to me of your problem and your solution to fix it, for more information.
Hello can you tell me if this video would also apply if I was bracing joists from a gapping hole, left after a removal of a disability lift has been removed from my home?
I cannot provide you with structural engineering information, but can tell you that most of the floor framing repairs you're referring to can be done by simply filling the area in using joist and joist hangers. Let me know if that makes sense.
do you have to place the joist in the beam pocket in all cases or are there times when you do not have to?
I would needs example of what you're talking about. Feel free to send me a picture or provide me with more details so that I can get a better understanding of your question.
I’m currently trying to repair true 2x12 by 12” centers but these are going into the brick work of an old building! Any pointers would help, thank you
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/floors/joist_in_masonry_wall.html see if this helps.
Will GRK’s work just as well as the 1/2” bolts?
Question: I am going to have to repair joists on a sagging upper floor. What would be the best approach? I would prefer not to have to jack up the existing joists from the lower floor due to the value of the hardwood floor below.
Christine Opland I will try to make a video within a few days to provide you with a solution.
can you do the bolt repair to a LV beam that you want to extend 2 ft?
You should check with the product manufacturer. I used this to find their guide (Technical Guide - LP Building Products) and the information you're looking for should be on page 13. I would love to say you can, because I've seen it done before, but that might not provide you with all the information you were looking for.
Cheers for the information, 1 thing i was wondering is if there is a minimum distance you should over lap the wood? I was reading on a couple of forums that 2 foot is the minimum but this seems very unrealistic. the joist I am working on just now is 3.5m long and the the end of the joist has dry rot so we are to cut away about 500mm of the end of the joist to eradicate all the rot. I was planning over lapping the joist by 1m! do you think this would be enough? Thank you in advance.
+Jonathan MacMillan I can't really answer this question and remember I'm not a structural engineer so I'm just going to provide you with an educated opinion. 3 foot minimum sounds good on anything 3 foot or under, but think it would be better to add the distance you're removing. For example, if you remove 3 feet of damage from a 12 foot framing member (floor joist, ceiling joist, wall stud) then I think it would be a good idea to add 3 feet, making the board 6 foot long that you're going to replace, giving you 3 feet of overlap that you can fastened together with bolts, nails or screws.
Appreciate the feed back.
I eventually had 1 of my mates have a look at the job, he's a joiner! He assured me that the 3 foot over lap was sufficient, he advised using coach bolts and like you said screws to had it together.
Cheers for the advice and keep up the good work.
how do I cantilever the joists out into an open room so as I can put a staircase up against the trimmer when the joists are running the same direction as the staircase??
You would need to install a beam in the floor running perpendicular to the joist. In other words it would be extremely difficult to cantilever the floor and you might be better off installing post to support the landing.
What if I need to change the beam with joist is attached to what is your recommendation? On doing that
Here is a link that might be helpful and look for the word girder. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html if you can't find what you're looking for, then email me a few pictures of your problem and of course you can get our email address at our website.
Scabbing is appropriate for minor beam splits and some over-notching. The engineer will probably tell you the required length and nailing pattern but will likely sign off on the right design.
Is there a restriction for how close you would bolt to the edges of the joists? I thought you should only drill and bolt within the middle third of the width, but these bolts appear to be in the outer thirds. Curious what the engineer said if anything.
I would check with an engineer. I've never had them specify spacing from edge of lumber, that I can remember.
I have termite damage to about 2ft of the ends of 2 of my 2x8 joists. I'm thinking of jacking everything back up close and bolting another 2x8 in about 8ft in length to where my mess of house wiring starts. would I need to span to the other end or would this work as well. it's directly under a sliding double door (upstairs). I was going to cut the ends of. the old joist out and toenail the new piece to the sill plate and use 3/8 bolts to sister and use gorilla glue. I just bought the house 2 months ago and trying to remodel it all before I move in. just found the damage yesterday and had 2 termite inspector out today. it's old damage from years ago. thanks!
You would be better off installing full-length joist that sit on supporting walls or beams, but understand the problem you will run into with electrical wires, forcing you to use shorter joist. I'm just going to throw this out there, even though I'm not an engineer and won't be responsible for whatever you do, but don't think you would have a problem using the shorter joist if they aren't supporting much weight. Now what do I mean by much weight, like a waterbed, bookshelves, heavy furniture or a load bearing wall.
Yes it is directly under a sliding glass door in the dining room so not much of a floor load but it is on an outside wall on a 1100sqft ranch. I'm in the process of getting some contractors out to see what they think. I believe the best would be full length from sill to beam but I'd have to remove all the basement wiring because unfortunately it's all on that side of the basement:( thanks for the reply ! Awesome channel
You're welcome.
Thank you
Welcome!
So which method doesn't require a structural engineer?
Sister a full length joist to the old one.
I don't really see the difference except in one you use nails and the other bolts. can you point out the difference? I have a kitchen floor where a leak created this exact issue. thanks
I think from an engineering point of view, the bolts will work better than the nails, but again it would depend upon the situation. Remember, this type of repair might not work for every project. Let me know if you need more information or a better explanation.
Yeah I have a 7x7 beam it has a split in middle I've leaved in the house 6 years just trying close the crack I dug out 4 footings for lally columns were do I send you pictures
You can go to our website and there should be a link to the website in our video description box. At the bottom of every page on the website you should find our email by clicking on the contact link.
I redecked a 20 year old PT pine deck, I kept the old frame. Anything I can do to strengthen the frame?
Probably should have done the engineering modifications before you built the deck, but you can always install structural beams underneath the joist to reduce the spans. Send me a picture of your deck and I'll see if I can provide you with some more information. You can get our email address at the website.
how can I raise a severely saggy floor with a Furnace underneath it. the joist under the furnace was cut and they framed a box over the top . I guess my question is how can I raise and frame a floor with a Furnace directly in the center of the room right under the sags?
+Jordan L You might need to remove part of the subflooring (plywood or one by six) so that you can work on it from above or remove and relocate the furnace so that you can work on it below. It sounds like you might need to replace the floor joist and you could always do that one at a time, working your way right to left or left to right. Let me know if this doesn't make sense.
I have recently undertaken the task of removing my drop ceiling in my kitchen. I am now in the process of hanging new drywall...I have discovered some extensive termite damage to one of the main beams running almost center of area. I am not sure how far the damage goes and if the beam is salvageable or if it needs to be completely replaced. Now my question is IF the damage is concentrated to say a 3' span could I cut and sister or would I be better off replacing the entire beam?
+Nisha Flores I'm not a structural engineer, but can suggest replacing the beam as the better option. Most of the time you can replace existing building parts, but any modifications like sistering additional building materials or lumber would require the approval of an engineer and quite possibly your local building department.
What if you use 1/4 inch flat plate where the bolts go thru for strength and space them 16 inch apart .
I've seen stuff like that work before.
At the front of my deck - the rim joist (2X6) has some decay on the top. Do I need to change the entire rim joist or can I sister anothor piece (2 X8) rim joist to the front of it. I may change the entire deck frame to (2X8) all the way around. Let me kow - I appreciate your input and videos.
Most framing repairs remove and replace damaged lumber.
Do you have or know of any videos showing the removal of the rim joist?
at 109 would this work on a notched floor beam that's over the sill plate
+John Schlich I wouldn't recommend this method for a structural beam that's supporting floor joist. If this didn't answer your question, feel free to send me a picture or ask another question.
I'd add some sort of adhesive to make it even stronger
Sergey Bebenin
That’s what I’ve done to the jois(T’)s* I repaired because the end resting against the outer solid brick wall has rotted. Those things aren’t going anywhere.
* because apparently the T is optional. 😉
Can you post a link to your other floor joist repair videos? I have an old house with a cracked floor joist so I'm thinking of adding a sister joist with staggered bolts like you showed. Would it be beneficial to add a sister joist on each side of the cracked floor joist? Like two new 2x8s sandwiching the cracked 2x8 floor joist? Or is one sister joist bolted to the cracked floor joist sufficient? The crack is a about 3 feet long and was caused by someone cutting a piece out of it for a plumbing.
Here's a link to our website www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/index.html and if you can't find what you're looking for leave another question in the comment area or send me a picture of your problem. You can get our email address at the website.
One thing I've seen done when you're sistering joists is to cut plywood to the same height as the joist (say 10 inches high by 4 feet long), then sandwiching that plywood between the old, weak joist and your new 'patch joist' - bolting this sandwich (plywood as the meat in the middle, old and new joists as the bread on each side) staggered as shown in this video. Adds a lot of deflection strength. The longer the 'new sister' the better, of course.
Mine is upstairs flat it usrd to leak the roof council fixed roof after 15years plus but my floor sags since just where the wall is where water used to run down walls. I lived 3 years no hot water no heating judt befor they repaired roof so whilst i was able to heat dry walls out prior to this i couldnt then. Walls are crumblinf bricks can be pukled out but worker just said no oladtered overed it.
Can you layer it with 3/4 plywood on 2 sides with lags?
Maybe and let us know if it works. I think I would use bolts with nuts and washers though. Drill through both the plywood and joist then run bolt through and connect all of it together.
when you have sagging floors because of rotted joists, whats the first step? Do i jack up the floor and then sister the joists? or replace those somehow and then jack to level and support through permanent jacks? I'm just insecure about the step by step process for this. I kind of have every issue you can imagine wrong with this house. They supported the joists with 2X6's nailed together. They're starting to twist and separate and the cinder blocks are either breaking in half or holding strong but the support is pushing into the wood. Everything is either rotted, un-level, bad soil, wrong wood, wrong supports, exc. Any tips of first steps and so on for the attack. Also, any tips on seeing electrical wires? Better to get an electrician or just shut power off?
The first step will be to evaluate the damage. If the floor is sagging more than 1 inch in a 12 foot span or distance, then it might need to be replaced. If not then the next step would be to make sure that the joist and other structural components are not damaged and if they aren't then try raising the floor, but do it gradually and in small increments until it is positioned correctly, then you can add additional components like joist and beams to secure it..
i appreciate the response! So when jacking up the joists, is it good to jack up the joists with a big support girder with jacks throughout or just specifically with the individual jacks under each joist?
It all depends upon the situation and method you're going to use to repair the floor. For example you could use a beam and a few jacks, just as long as you can still make the repairs after the floor has been raised. Make sure you position the beams in spots where they will still allow you to install the new joist, without blocking access.
thank you leveling my floor need this info so I dont fall through 20 years from now lol
Exactly!!!
Just had to do this to a house I just bought, today. I would have gone from side to side but it is in a 65 year old brick on block townhouse. It's the first floor's floor joist where they hacked out huge chunk of it installing a light in the basement ceiling. The joists are cemented into the foundation and no chance to go full end to end anyway with gas pipes, electric and heat ducts in the way. Lucky enough this house is old school and the floor joists are 1 foot on center. All I had room for was 8 foot of a 2X8 and a tube of heavy duty liquid nails. Had to nail it so I put coated sinkers in at every angle I could get them in and then used my pasload to basically staple stitch all the way around the original joist's hack out. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do.
Good point, sometimes you will have to make modifications to suggested repair methods.
I have a rotten sill plate. How am I suppose to get to it and replace?
ruclips.net/video/KhhK_hjItXY/видео.html see if this helps.
Literally in this exact situation. Do you need approval from a structural engineer if you have the new joist span the entire length of the old one?
You would need to check with your local building department or local building authorities, but I don't think you will.
Can something like this be done on repairing sections of a girder that are rotted?
Sometimes, but I would try to remove and replace a damaged beam.
@@gregvancom Thank you. I'm going to end up replacing the complete beam.
What size of bolts would you recommend?
I've seen 3/8 to 3/4 of an inch bolts used for projects similar to this.
The load of one repair seems fine with two gussets on each side of a damaged joist, But what about finding 5 joists that were cut, leaving essentially 2x4 wood left? My carpenter plans on doing the repair as you stated with same size wood, in this case 2x8's (this is an old house) that will be 6 foot long each, onto the existing 2x8x13' span joists. This seems unacceptable to me, and as I have just found out that all the repair work is being done without a permit, I cannot ask the towns inspector to approve this work. What a fix! I want him o sister full length joists, and he has threatened to walk off the job? Is he correct in saying this will hold the second floor bath (replaced tub) he just put in in this damaged area? We found this damage as he was going to bring up to code the 2" drain from the existing 1 1/2" drain...Whoever did this work previously looks like they did it with an axe...Please respond asap, as I'm tired of bathing in a bucket.... vic
+Victor Radzawich I would go with the full-length boards myself, unless there was an obstacle in the way, plumbing pipes, electrical wires, heating ducts or structural framing components. Remember, I'm not a structural engineer and cannot provide you with repair plans, only examples.
+gregvancom I understand, and I know that in a perfect world the full sistered timber joists would be the way to go, I may have to insist on it. I cannot see patching 5 damaged joists in a row as a viable fix. Now all I have to do is locate my missing contractor...Like you said, planning is important, and the drain could have gone down another wall instead of across 5 joists...I just don't get some people? Thanks for the input, ...vic
use a metal late analogous to a flitch joist
you meant plate, right? like 1/4" plate to reinforce the joist.
It's a much better option to sister a full length new joist to the old one from the beam to the sill as long as you have reasonable access to do so.
Good point and as you mentioned, if it will be possible.
Why not just use some 3 inch GRK structural screws. That would be much easier than trying to bolt it down (or just put a new one in because you are already theree
I never seen that used on this situation, but if your suggestion is something that would be approved by a structural engineer then go for it. I think I would rather use the bolts, because I've seen it done in the past.
Yup - I'm using Headloks to bolster some headers and beams held together with 40 year old nails. - the only 3" structural screw I could find. Rated the same as 3/8 to 1/2 lag bolt. I've got to think this is better than drilling a whole lot of holes in most cases.
@@anxiousappliance in retrospect to my comment 4 years back, I would think it's better to just sister the damn thing and block around the pipe to join the entirety to the neighbouring floor joist as well. Might be a bit of an overkill though. Even big holes are actually not that bad for bolts and screws as long as they dont cause the wood to split. Knots are effectively little holes (we can get technical and say the wood around the knot is harder) It's notches that are the problem in most cases.
You say you weren't sure of the length for the new joist. Typically I've heard of having 4ft of overlap
I didn't provide a length, because there are too many engineering variables to suggest that one size like 4 feet will work on every repair situation.
You said to put a bolt every 8 inches. Can I add a bolt every 6 inches instead? Please Reply. I need help!
Tillie Thompson why couldn't you. It is even more overkill. But have at it.
These are just suggested spacing and the purpose of the video is to give you an idea of how you can fix it, so feel free to space them at whatever you feel appropriate.
renaissancemen1 The closer you get together and more bolts you use, the more you weaken the timber...
A staggered bolt pattern of 16 inches on center is usually acceptable.
I duct taped them 🤓
Lol
Thank you, sir. I, too pronounce "joist" as "joyce." It's a lot more fun.
Exactly!!!! it's an old habit that's hard to break.
How come you wouldn't just remove the original joist all together and put a whole new one in?
You can, but sometimes the floor above has some type of flooring installed over it like tile carpeting and makes it difficult to remove the nails connecting the floor sheathing to the floor joist.
gregvancom thanks :)
gregvancom I don't know what flies in the US but short of replacing the whole joist I would say the only acceptable repair would be a scarf joint
@@paulmcfadyen689 You will need to fasten a scarf joint with bolts in both side, and that will be a problem for the top side
@@dalecooper3729 never seen a scarf joint bolted?
Nothing wrong in first method all though you need to use A LOT of nails and correct nailing pattern to nail to make that type of fixing to strong enough.
On other hand bolt connection on small joist can make whole joist weaker because drilling hole for bolt weakens it a little bit when nails doesn't if you doesn't nail too close to edge or sides.
So true.
Using too many bolts will actually weaken the joist being worked on.
If you have some wood to work with (good sized joists) you should have no problem.
But 2X6's or even some 2X8's one must be careful.
What about just nailing it together with a nails and hammer?
That will work sometimes, but the bolt method is usually stronger.
@@gregvancom
What size wood nails should i use?
How would you remove a water- damaged joist?
Usually you cut it out, but it will depend on the design and damage. Here's a link to some of our crawlspace repair videos. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html
how sustainable is that in terms of years
It would depend on a variety of different factors, like type of lumber, spans and loads.
Go the length of the beam
They were cutting a hole for wire and he didnt cut right in the middle more towards bottom and my crack is at least a foot long. Dug out basement so the dirt is close to the floor so il use plywood with my car jack to jack it back up and maybe my computer chair wont roll on its own anymore😂
Joyce?
Why would that require a structural engineer?
Dean Garrett That's a good question and sometimes it won't. I think the main point I'm trying to make is that if you have a problem with a building, then it might not have been built correctly in the first place and most people wouldn't know unless they were familiar with framing homes or designing them. For example, you could have 2 x 6 floor joist, when you actually needed 2 x 8 or 24 inch on center joist spacing when they should've been 16 inches on center.
He’s covering his butt, nobody watching this is going to hire a structural engineer to mend a floor joist. That’s why we’re all here.
@@1catbrains you got that right
Why wouldn’t you just add a full length joist? Do it right.. Even if it is actually more than you need.
I have a 2x10 joist needed for repair. Plumber cut straight through it for toilet.😒 Adding full length 2x10 next to the damaged one with construction adhesive, construction screws and then wedge a piece of 2x10 between the damage 2x10 pieces with construction staples (used for floor trusses) to hold the pieced joist 2x10 together. Should be solid and I hope my explanation is understandable.
The reason plumbers do this? Because if you ask the chipies to fix it they crib and cry
Duct tape ? That’s overbuilt
I scotch taped mine!
That was as clear as mud
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html
I'm a structural engineer and there are multiple good reasons why I don't approve of sistering a joist. The first (and really the final reason) is that it doesn't meet code.
If there's one thing I can say about home repairs, it's that I've seen a variety of them done a variety of different ways and am regularly surprised that they're still holding up or why they wouldn't be approved by local building authorities if they do. Thanks for commenting and it's always nice to hear from an engineer.
Hi Charles, are you saying that the sister joist should run the full length? What would be a proper solution to adding support to a failing joist?
@@anthonybasiliere9366 sorry for the delayed response ... but yep full length, from support to support. You can attach the new joist to the old, or take the damaged out, or just ignore the damaged ... it doesn't matter. I've heard that the old codes, CABO and BOCA in my area, did entertain sistering joists, but not under the ICC codes.
"Structural Engineer" 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
:)
Just run the sisterboards all the way. Duh.....
If you run the sister boards all the way and there sitting on top of structural load bearing walls, beams or foundations, then you might not need to bolt them to the joist next to it, instead you can simply fasten it together with nails.
plumber = butcher
THANKS
Welcome