Thanks Gary for your time and dedication. Am new to this industry, your videos helps to me understand in details also your troubleshooting and trick help me to resolve issue
Recently installed an iron sulphuric air filter with a clack valve. I was getting no flow at all unless bypassed. Removed the bypass assembly and noticed the check valve in the input side was in pieces. (Two part housing, two o rings, plunger, and spring. I reinstalled it after I put it back together and had water flow for a short time. Stopped after 60 seconds. So I took it apart again thinking it may have come apart but looks ok. If I reinstall I get water for 69 seconds then stops with same pressure so doubt the issue is still the check valve. Brand new unit
In the brine cycle the brine is leaving its tank properly however I believe it is going directly to drain rather than into the brine media tank. old style drain valve. brine at about 55 minutes it slows to sucking air. The expelled water to drain tastes salty.
@@water_estore sorry in the delay. The water leaving the shower head or faucets is not silky or smooth and soap really doesn’t lather as prescribed as it had before. I’ve rebuilt it. new stack and pistons. Cleaned thoroughly the valve body internally. Replaced the injectors. I soaked the valve body in Rust out and rinsed well. I have no leaks or kinks. I’ve replaced the media. Cleaning it up there was very little iron. I do have an increasing amount of deposit (calcium??) buildup on my taps and heads. My iron content results are not current but previous records show 30ppm. However the previous owner had it set to 32ppm. I did not change it. The system was installed 12 years ago. Is it possible the valve body itself is worn?
Hi Gary - thanks for your video. We have cleaned out our Clack WS1 (3 button) programmer. We use this to clean water from a bore hole with Iron and Manganese filter. We have changed the seal pack and also put in a new injector. When I cleaned it out we found a small black pea/ball (7mm approx diameter) on our draining board - I have no idea where this came from and are now worried it is a key component - can you let me know. Thanks everso - from Colette near Louth, Lincolnshire UK
Oh thank you. We have put the system back together and it seems to be working fine. So we are are no nearer on where this came from either. Thank you for your help - we are now going to visit our neighbours and spread the knowledge@@water_estore
Hi Gary, appreciate the videos. My sulfur filter has water coming out of the air vent when doing a Regen, and a sulfur smell to the water inside the house. Any tips on what I should look for first? Thank you!
I need a new circuit board for my system. I don't see the exact on in your store any ideas where I can get one. I have done checked ebay and Amazon. It is a 5 button straight clack system
Gary, when the clack is in regen mode and water is called for at the tap, will the unit allow untreated water to bypass it or will the brine end up going to the tap? Thanks
Water is leaking past the seals, so the valve needs to be rebuilt. We have the rebuild kits here waterestore.com/products/clack-ws1-softener-rebuild-kit-wrench
Hi Gary, I recently had a 5 button (straight across) clack water softener installed over the summer. Today I noticed when I removed the faceplate there was a considerable amount of what seemed to be clear oil on the bottom of the valve assembly. The black ring behind the drive gear had a drip of the liquid on the bottom side of it. Is this packing oil from the manufacturer? It doesn’t quite seem like water and doesn’t quite seem like grease. It’s pretty viscous like a clear oil. Any idea?
@@water_estore thanks for the reply. This has me baffled. I’m wondering if they just over greased from factory. Just seems so oily. Cleaned off, will see if it reappears
@ShiftyC1202 I have an older valve five button in horizontal line that will not manually go into a cycle when holding down the regenerate button it will cycle when the meter reaches 0..is this a circuit board problem o
Thanks Gary for your time and dedication.
Am new to this industry, your videos helps to me understand in details also your troubleshooting and trick help me to resolve issue
Great to hear! Please share video with friends and family!
Thank you for doing this Gary.
Your welcome, thanks for watching. Please share video with friends and family!
Great video. Thanks for the training.
I you are welcome
Thank you Gary, Pro as usual
Thanks for watching! Please share video with friends and family!
Recently installed an iron sulphuric air filter with a clack valve. I was getting no flow at all unless bypassed. Removed the bypass assembly and noticed the check valve in the input side was in pieces. (Two part housing, two o rings, plunger, and spring.
I reinstalled it after I put it back together and had water flow for a short time. Stopped after 60 seconds. So I took it apart again thinking it may have come apart but looks ok.
If I reinstall I get water for 69 seconds then stops with same pressure so doubt the issue is still the check valve.
Brand new unit
Seems very odd to me, never heard of this before. For sure you have the water inlet and outlet connected correctly?
In the brine cycle the brine is leaving its tank properly however I believe it is going directly to drain rather than into the brine media tank. old style drain valve. brine at about 55 minutes it slows to sucking air. The expelled water to drain tastes salty.
The water going to the drain will taste saslty whether it goes into the media tank or not. What makes you think it is not going into the media tank?
@@water_estore sorry in the delay. The water leaving the shower head or faucets is not silky or smooth and soap really doesn’t lather as prescribed as it had before. I’ve rebuilt it. new stack and pistons. Cleaned thoroughly the valve body internally. Replaced the injectors. I soaked the valve body in Rust out and rinsed well. I have no leaks or kinks. I’ve replaced the media. Cleaning it up there was very little iron.
I do have an increasing amount of deposit (calcium??) buildup on my taps and heads.
My iron content results are not current but previous records show 30ppm. However the previous owner had it set to 32ppm. I did not change it. The system was installed 12 years ago.
Is it possible the valve body itself is worn?
Hi Gary - thanks for your video. We have cleaned out our Clack WS1 (3 button) programmer. We use this to clean water from a bore hole with Iron and Manganese filter. We have changed the seal pack and also put in a new injector. When I cleaned it out we found a small black pea/ball (7mm approx diameter) on our draining board - I have no idea where this came from and are now worried it is a key component - can you let me know. Thanks everso - from Colette near Louth, Lincolnshire UK
No, I don't think it is part of the system. I ahve never seen something like this inside one of those valves.
Oh thank you. We have put the system back together and it seems to be working fine. So we are are no nearer on where this came from either. Thank you for your help - we are now going to visit our neighbours and spread the knowledge@@water_estore
Teşekkürler güzel bilgiler. 🙏👍
Thanks, I think?
how many amps does the water softener draw. can it trip the circuit breaker
I doubt it, only 500 mA
I need the video or link on how to clean the injector on my ws1. Thanks
Here it is. ruclips.net/video/Eonviqm58bA/видео.html
Hi Gary, appreciate the videos. My sulfur filter has water coming out of the air vent when doing a Regen, and a sulfur smell to the water inside the house. Any tips on what I should look for first? Thank you!
You need to replace the air draw assembly. We have them here waterestore.ca/products/clack-fob-c-k-strainer-check-valve-air-intake-assy
I need a new circuit board for my system. I don't see the exact on in your store any ideas where I can get one. I have done checked ebay and Amazon. It is a 5 button straight clack system
Is it this one waterestore.com/products/clack-ws1-5-button-circuit-board-v3108. If not, email me a picture at info@waterestore.com
@@water_estore no it's not and I already emailed the water store the other day and they said they didn't have any like it.
Gary, when the clack is in regen mode and water is called for at the tap, will the unit allow untreated water to bypass it or will the brine end up going to the tap? Thanks
It depends on which part of the cycle it is in.
Hi, why does my salt reservoir back fill ?
All pipework is tight.
Water is leaking past the seals, so the valve needs to be rebuilt. We have the rebuild kits here waterestore.com/products/clack-ws1-softener-rebuild-kit-wrench
What does the battery in these do?
Power backup for the clock during a power interruption.
I can’t get the cover that covers the readout. Is there a special way to pinch the cover t9 get it off?
Grab it from both sides, toward the back and pull forward.
@@water_estore thank you!!
On the drive in cap, there is minor leakage , how can I rectify that, the softener is just months old
You can just tighten the drive end cap assembly using this wrench waterestore.com/products/clack-ws1-valve-disassembly-wrench-v3193
Hi Gary, I recently had a 5 button (straight across) clack water softener installed over the summer. Today I noticed when I removed the faceplate there was a considerable amount of what seemed to be clear oil on the bottom of the valve assembly. The black ring behind the drive gear had a drip of the liquid on the bottom side of it. Is this packing oil from the manufacturer? It doesn’t quite seem like water and doesn’t quite seem like grease. It’s pretty viscous like a clear oil. Any idea?
I have never seen this before
@@water_estore thanks for the reply. This has me baffled. I’m wondering if they just over greased from factory. Just seems so oily. Cleaned off, will see if it reappears
@ShiftyC1202 I have an older valve five button in horizontal line that will not manually go into a cycle when holding down the regenerate button it will cycle when the meter reaches 0..is this a circuit board problem o