Thank you So much! With your video I was so confident. Got the crown bearing and spline lube in the mail and five hors later was done. With another video from Chris Harris. When I opened it up. Wow. That was the problem. The crown bearing was way gone. 5 ball bearings missing, the cage thing in pieces. 4mm thick of metal around the magnetic drain plug. I was cheap and used all the old stuff except for New crown bearing. No leaks, knock on wood. And I used two large screwdrivers with bent up ends and easily pried off the crown bearing. One on each side. Instead of a 30mm socket for reassembly I used a precision giant crescent wrench while I had my 12mm hex in. Then tightened the 30 mm nut while keeping my center 12mm pin stable with my breaker bar and 12 mm hex socket. Thanks from Kansas. I am in the middle of a BMW motorcycle repair shop desert. 300 miles west to Denver or 300 northeast to Omaha nebraska or 240 miles south to Tulsa. Crazy. Just did a test drive. So far so good. Oops my tag is good but I have no insurance on it. It would have been a nightmare of trailers and a few nights in hotel in Denver just to get it fixed from a shop. And they would of charged me a$1,000 plus. Thanks again. T
had my r1100s for 120km /15 yrs . needed to replace the rear bearings . your video was spot on . thank you for taking the time to make it . i was planning on giving the hub to motorrad to do . would have cost a fortune . but i watched the video and realized even a berk like me can do it if i watch you. thanks again .
James thanks for that. At my MOT last week I had advisory rear wheel play so I watched your video, bought myself the crown and tapered bearings and all the oils seals. I took the opportunity to replace my paralever bearings as well, clean and moly grease all the splines etc. Hardest bit was removing the tapered race without the bespoke tool so I spot welded a steel washer to the race and pulled on a bolt inserted through the washer instead. Drove the new race in with a 38 mm socket. Had to wait for the boss (my wife) to go out before placing the tapered bearing and shaft in the freezer and using the kitchen table. Your video was invaluable and saved me hundreds on a refurbished drive and now I would be quite confident doing this in a backstreet workshop anywhere in the world. All R1150 owners please note. No special skills required here - just a methodical approach, patience and a bit of mechanical experience. It's not rocket science and James has done us all a favour here. Thanks mate. Yes - heat is your friend.
An informed engineering presentation that held my attention to the end! You are to be congratulated! I served my time a toolmaker & later became tutor in the apprentice school within the factory & on site. What helped me in later years was the advent of the smart phone for recording, an absolute boom in my field, where apprentices could watch & then practice hands on, which is what you are doing for us RUclips'rs so carry on doing what you do your way, educating engineering entertainment. Brilliant!
Thank you, I really appreciate your kind words. There is certainly no money to be made making RUclips videos unless you have millions of subscribers. Positive comments like yours have such a massive affect on motivation to make more content which will hopefully encourage more people to get stuck in and have a go! Thank you 👍😁
My R1100GS, with 87,000K on it, finally needs the crown wheel bearing replaced. This video made the bearing removal much, much easier. It actually quite simple to do. Thanks!!!- Cheers from Michigan USA
Greetings from the center of the USA. Nebraska. Great great video. I'm very NOT mechanical and I'm thinking about buying a used R1150GS and in researching that bike found this video. I sat through the entire video and was entranced. I find it very interesting watching someone that so casually really knows what they are doing explain. Nothing that you did was all that complicated but every single detail had a purpose. You didn't go on and on about unimportant things, every detail was important. The part about using temperature was especially interesting and helpful. I wish I lived next door to someone like you that could give me a hand at stuff like this and had all of those special tools. Keep up the great work.
Can't thank you enough for taking the time to put this together! My '05 GS Adv is approaching 90K miles and I am going to do a big rebuild this winter. Cheers from Canada.
Pretty good information. A few suggestions though..... I would definitely clean the surface, on the crown gear assembly, outside of where the chevron seal is, before you reassemble the drive. A Scotchbrite pad is excellent for that. It'll take that rusty looking residue off, without removing metal, like sand paper would. Otherwise there's a chance that as you assemble the unit, that seal is picking up, some of that debris. Also you should lubricate, slightly the chevron seal"s rubber lip, where it fits against the rotating crown assembly with a little gear oil. If not your seal is going to be running dry, when you first ride the machine. It could cause that seal to fail quickly.
I would donate to you for your awesome videos. It's a bargain. If I were to bring my R1150R to the dealer, it would cost me a small fortune to have it repaired. I have learned so much from videos. I almost feel like a real mechanic. I wish I did go to school to become a mechanic when I was younger. I thought college was the way to go, I was wrong. Learning a trade is the way to go.
Nice Job James ! ..... 👍 Only thing I'd add is, I've put bearing houses and crankcases in the wife oven ( when she's out shopping !!!) You can get them to a nice unform and controlled temp that way. 👌 Cheers Roj PS : open the kitchen windows !!! Hot axle oil stinks 🤣😂🤣😂
Great Video. I've a 1150GS and this is definitely one video I will be coming back to. It's the fine detail that you put into your video that's made it worth while. In exactly the opposite way that Haynes manuals leave you hanging with descriptions like " look for wear". Your example of the oil seal wear was bang on. Thanks for your time and effort.
James, thanks for the brilliant video. I’m pretty sure You did the best step-by-step tutorial how to maintance the final drive. Thanks and waiting for more!
Lovely presentation but I strongly disagree that measuring for correct shimming is not needed. Most of these final drives that wore out prematurely, and lots did, was due to incorrect shimming at the factory. To re- measure for correct shims required is a simple technique using small strips of soft solder. You may be able to google this up if you are interested.
Thank you for this very thorough walk through! I have an R1100RT. I recently acquired it and don’t know very much about BMW’s Your video demystified the final drive to such a degree, I no longer live in fear of things going wrong with it! Cheers!
This video is so wonderfully full of tips and makes the job, not easy, but DOABLE! I'm literally creating a playlist for my R1150r because this video is one i will absolutely watch when this time comes due! THANKS !!! :-D
Great video thanks, one question, did the customer not want the corrosion sorted on the housing? would have been a good time to do it ! Anyway keep up the good work, regards, Chris (Suffolk UK).
Here's a tip for removing the tapered bearing inner race. Temporarily install to (beefy) VW beetle wheel bolts (lug bolts) into the other end and to clamp assembly in a vise. Install the bolts into the same holes that the BMW wheel bolts are installed into. Install the bolts in 2 of the 4 holes with placement 180 degrees from one another (recall, a straight line is formed between two points). The bolt heads are then clamped into the vice. Works great!
This is the first video of yours I watched. I watched it al. You may think it was to long I just realy liked learning al the tips and tricks. Thanks for you're time and efford in making these !! Cheers!
Happened upon the channel by chance, you were repairing the SP1 with the alarm problem. Anyway, saw your video on the GS diff and watched it entirely. Brilliant stuff! There are far too many videos that make technical jobs seem too easy. You've shown this job in amazing detail and, being a K1200LT owner, if required I'd definitely tackle this job myself. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thank you very much for a vert detailed video. It is not a single minute too long. I am replacing my rear wheel bearing at this moment and find you detailed video extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing. All the best, and keep up the excellent work
Absolutely the best video Iv ever seen,, Iv just recently purchased a bmw r1100s so this is of real interest to me,, your explanation as you work is perfect.👍👍👍👍👍
This is an excellent video. My friend and I have just done his final drive on his GSA. We were told to get a 19 ball bearing from bmw. They say you can get a 17 ball from after market places but that it does not last. We still need to find the o-ring buf can't find a part number. Thank you again for a wonderful vid. Pete from Johannesburg South Africa.
Great video brother. I really enjoyed it and as others have pointed out, the combination of good camera angle in fixed position with the detailed commentary (and spot of tea) is helpful. Good stuff. Keep it up. cheers
The best tool the one between the ears. Good tips and glad it turned out to be a how-to. I believe the 1150RT is the same so would apply this to my bike. (2 years after) yeah. It really took me 2 years to get to it. Wouldn’t it make more sense (if it is not the case which I am not certain as I see only ghat it is Castroil, to lube the final assembly with the gear oil that is used on final drive 80w90 (clymer)? Thank you
Thanks much for your valuable time, professional advice and consideration. I hope to ride now as I could not afford nor am I near a mechanic. thanks again.
When I did a Suzuki 2 stroke crank bearings I put the casing in the oven so I could control the temperature. Some of the people I shared college halls of residence with complained about the smell!
Fantastic vid, watched it all during lunch and bookmarked it for future reference. My '02 1150RT is at 54K miles on the original FD, so this may come in handy one day. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
James - it's a fine long video and shows your expertise and experience very clearly. You have all the special tools needed for this rebuild, and you've done it all many times before. So rather than trying to do the job myself in another 10K miles, when my odometer reads 35K, wouldn't it be much simpler if I were to just send you my rear hub ? Please quote me a price !
Damn, only installed one shim and found the other in my rag pile. Now again disassembled to re-install 2nd shim. My fault for working in a cramped garage with all bits’n’pieces around me.
Make sure you put those pivot sleeve back in and tape them securely so they stay in contact with the needle bearings. They will easily fall out if you don't while you are working on it.
Excelente vídeo !!. Muy didáctico, explicado con tranquilidad. El trabajo realizado con cariño y con las herramientas adecuadas, es mucho mas fácil. Felicitaciones me es de gran utilidad !! One question, heat first the screws corresponding to the needle bearings (where the transmission pivots) to be able to remove them? Thank you !!
Those bolts with the normal roller bearing and the tapered roller - do they need to be heated before you undo them? (I ride an R1100RT but the final drive is the same ) I am going to need to do rear wheel bearing at some point.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV I was referring to the two bolts that hold the final drive to the swingarm and have the pivot in them. I've seen conflicting advice saying that you need to heat them before removal or you will break them.
@@ruthmoreton6975 The reason you'll see conflicting advice is there isn't just one way of doing things. The use of heat on something is always a judgment call depending on the situation. I've undone plenty without needing heat but some do. There are basically no right and wrong answers with subjects like this. Just personal experiences.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV thank you very much. I think, with it being my first attempt when I try to do it, I will use a bit of heat to help release those bolts. It can't hurt. I am taking note of the essential tools too. I will make sure I get the right pullers.
Thank you, very nice. I have few questions for you: I have a 1999 BMW K1200 LT which has a shaft drive, looks exactly like this one. I need to rebuild it as it is leaking and has metal shavings in the oil. It is a weak point on the LT because of the weight. Is the rebuild on the LT more or less the same as this one on the GS ? Also how much would you say the parts costs are (Roughly) ? I am in the US of course so they maybe a bit cheaper. And what would be the cost of these specialized tools that I need to do the job ? I have the hammer and what not. And how often would you recommend changing the Final drive gear oil on these bikes ? And finally, does using a Heat Gun accomplish the same task as using a torch or do I need a torch ? Thank you.
Tha short answer is no it's not the same, you'll need a press to remove Bearings etc. To many differences to go into but much more difficult to do than the 1150.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Thank you. I guess I am better off having someone rebuild it than buying a new one since they have known defects even when new. I assume the RT Final drive is more similar to the GS one then ? I also have a 1999 RT. But the final drive on it seems to be fine, even at almost 100K miles.
Well done video, great explanation and some really great tips. I like your format and in my opinion not to long for the amount of information. Best explained video I have seen thus far. Again, great job👍
Watched the entire video. Very informative. Come to find out I need to replace the pinion gear bearing. The pinion gear, when pulled has play (in and out). The driveshaft does the same thing. Do I need to replace the bearings that house the driveshaft in the transmission? Also watched your ABS removal video and was inspired to give it a try. Had some fun with it and wasn't as hard as I'd though. I prefer non-ABS brakes. Seem to get a better feel. Thanks, Chris
I watched the whole video even though I don't own a BMW shaft driven bike some useful tips! I have a few Park tool tools around when I used to fix bicycles getting into motorbikes was a game changer as they are so much more complex. As for the ads I wouldn't mind as it's up to you and getting something more out of the videos may motivate you to make more content etc. I can imagine it's a pain working while trying to record I've thought about it when doing the odd job on bikes then gave up as there's some faffing around involved.
Hi, I'm in the middle of doing this job on my 2002 gs and I've only got 1 of the big shims in my FD, is this normal do you know? Fantastic video by the way 👍
thanks for the video, really helpful. But what about the other bearings and seal? the small spiral bevel gear that gets drive from the shaft to that big wheel drive gear. should that be changed too or is it unlikely they fail? As there will be oil in that assembly I would imagine there is a seal there to prevent oil going into the shaft drive housing. thanks
Have you ever worked on a R1200RT (K26)? I had an issue with the driveshaft joint and pinion rusting causing it to round off the FD pinion and the drive shaft, cost me £2k to buy replacement parts BUT i cannot get the damn pivot bolt off, I used heat because it has threadlocker, 2 ft breaker bars, standing on them, impact driver and 2 x mobile mechs. Still cant get the bugger off, so its been sat for 2 years. Any advice? thanks for posting the content.
Many thanks. I was about to attempt the bearing change. Tips have been very useful. I’ve missed other but I will look at more of your videos. Have you done anything on the ABS system. I really love my bike having had it near 20 years and toured quite a bit around souther and central Africa but the bloody ABS fault drives me mad having this constant light flashing. If I reset it last for a few days then I got to reset again.
At 75,000 miles, my R1100RT final drive has given up the ghost. This video has saved the day! Great commentary and humor (cat's ass?) ;-) Anyway, you mentioned something about funding. Considering you've saved me a fortune by allowing me to perform the repair myself, I'd be happy to throw a few bucks in the hat. How can I do this?
Thanks very much :) I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you'd like to support the creation of more content like this please go here. www.patreon.com/SuperbikeSurgeryTV Thanks Again. Jim.
Spiral bevel crown and pinions are a snack compared adjusting to hypoid ones .Gear oils are a bit smelly but not such a bit deal compared to washing in diesel or working with used diesel oil. Brake clean and other solvents dry out your hands something fearful.
this is the second time I watched this as I have a GSA great stuff did you ever come up with any conclusion on pay as you view.........you really should have a coffee account so we can help on your way..... there well worth it ...including your waffling......lol...... cheers Jim.......
Thanks for your positivity 🙏 The best way to support the channel is to join the Patreon group,Really not necessary though... www.patreon.com/SuperbikeSurgeryTV
Sir, thank you for your video its very informative in every step. But quick question you used two(2) metal shims, is it supposed to be one or two, i am rebuilding mine '02 R1150RT and only one metal shim came out. and USA oem part diagram shows one metal shim. Could you help me out. Thank You
It's not unusual to only see one shim. They are available in different sizes in the factory to allow for manufacturing tolerances, somtimes two smaller ones are used instead of one large. Assuming you are using good quality replacement parts there is no reason to assume you will have a problem.
Great video! I also have r1150gs 2003 with 46000 km. I have small freeplay on rear wheel (puling it with both hands by the top and bottom of the wheel). I think it's about 1-2 mm of freeplay, but I can't understand, what is correct measure of rear wheel freeplay? Please, give advice! And did I get you right- no need to tune up this adjusting shims on the small and big bearings? Just live them? So where from freeplay comes? Thanks you!
Quite often it's the paralever bearing causing the play, which the the one joining the bevel box to the shaft, the one with the big allen bolt described in the video. Check that first before you strip out the bevel box.
we the people the bmw owners dont give a fk about editing we need what you do the extra info the 'how to' because your narative input is awesome thx for this now i am confidant to do this meself next winter ,its ppl like you that keep the world sane ;)
Thank you So much! With your video I was so confident. Got the crown bearing and spline lube in the mail and five hors later was done. With another video from Chris Harris. When I opened it up. Wow. That was the problem. The crown bearing was way gone. 5 ball bearings missing, the cage thing in pieces. 4mm thick of metal around the magnetic drain plug. I was cheap and used all the old stuff except for New crown bearing. No leaks, knock on wood. And I used two large screwdrivers with bent up ends and easily pried off the crown bearing. One on each side. Instead of a 30mm socket for reassembly I used a precision giant crescent wrench while I had my 12mm hex in. Then tightened the 30 mm nut while keeping my center 12mm pin stable with my breaker bar and 12 mm hex socket. Thanks from Kansas. I am in the middle of a BMW motorcycle repair shop desert. 300 miles west to Denver or 300 northeast to Omaha nebraska or 240 miles south to Tulsa. Crazy. Just did a test drive. So far so good. Oops my tag is good but I have no insurance on it. It would have been a nightmare of trailers and a few nights in hotel in Denver just to get it fixed from a shop. And they would of charged me a$1,000 plus. Thanks again.
T
had my r1100s for 120km /15 yrs . needed to replace the rear bearings . your video was spot on . thank you for taking the time to make it . i was planning on giving the hub to motorrad to do . would have cost a fortune . but i watched the video and realized even a berk like me can do it if i watch you. thanks again .
James thanks for that. At my MOT last week I had advisory rear wheel play so I watched your video, bought myself the crown and tapered bearings and all the oils seals. I took the opportunity to replace my paralever bearings as well, clean and moly grease all the splines etc. Hardest bit was removing the tapered race without the bespoke tool so I spot welded a steel washer to the race and pulled on a bolt inserted through the washer instead. Drove the new race in with a 38 mm socket. Had to wait for the boss (my wife) to go out before placing the tapered bearing and shaft in the freezer and using the kitchen table. Your video was invaluable and saved me hundreds on a refurbished drive and now I would be quite confident doing this in a backstreet workshop anywhere in the world. All R1150 owners please note. No special skills required here - just a methodical approach, patience and a bit of mechanical experience. It's not rocket science and James has done us all a favour here. Thanks mate. Yes - heat is your friend.
Victor Wright
RUclips is great
The share talents and those that take the time to say thanks and add their own tips
An informed engineering presentation that held my attention to the end! You are to be congratulated! I served my time a toolmaker & later became tutor in the apprentice school within the factory & on site. What helped me in later years was the advent of the smart phone for recording, an absolute boom in my field, where apprentices could watch & then practice hands on, which is what you are doing for us RUclips'rs so carry on doing what you do your way, educating engineering entertainment. Brilliant!
Thank you, I really appreciate your kind words. There is certainly no money to be made making RUclips videos unless you have millions of subscribers. Positive comments like yours have such a massive affect on motivation to make more content which will hopefully encourage more people to get stuck in and have a go! Thank you 👍😁
My R1100GS, with 87,000K on it, finally needs the crown wheel bearing replaced. This video made the bearing removal much, much easier. It actually quite simple to do. Thanks!!!- Cheers from Michigan USA
Greetings from the center of the USA. Nebraska. Great great video. I'm very NOT mechanical and I'm thinking about buying a used R1150GS and in researching that bike found this video. I sat through the entire video and was entranced. I find it very interesting watching someone that so casually really knows what they are doing explain. Nothing that you did was all that complicated but every single detail had a purpose. You didn't go on and on about unimportant things, every detail was important. The part about using temperature was especially interesting and helpful. I wish I lived next door to someone like you that could give me a hand at stuff like this and had all of those special tools. Keep up the great work.
Can't thank you enough for taking the time to put this together! My '05 GS Adv is approaching 90K miles and I am going to do a big rebuild this winter.
Cheers from Canada.
Pretty good information. A few suggestions though..... I would definitely clean the surface, on the crown gear assembly, outside of where the chevron seal is, before you reassemble the drive. A Scotchbrite pad is excellent for that. It'll take that rusty looking residue off, without removing metal, like sand paper would. Otherwise there's a chance that as you assemble the unit, that seal is picking up, some of that debris. Also you should lubricate, slightly the chevron seal"s rubber lip, where it fits against the rotating crown assembly with a little gear oil. If not your seal is going to be running dry, when you first ride the machine. It could cause that seal to fail quickly.
I would donate to you for your awesome videos. It's a bargain. If I were to bring my R1150R to the dealer, it would cost me a small fortune to have it repaired. I have learned so much from videos. I almost feel like a real mechanic. I wish I did go to school to become a mechanic when I was younger. I thought college was the way to go, I was wrong. Learning a trade is the way to go.
Love your videos! Don't worry about the edit, these kinds of detailed videos are to rare. Keep up the grand work!
Nice Job James ! ..... 👍
Only thing I'd add is, I've put bearing houses and crankcases in the wife oven ( when she's out shopping !!!) You can get them to a nice unform and controlled temp that way. 👌
Cheers Roj
PS : open the kitchen windows !!! Hot axle oil stinks 🤣😂🤣😂
Great Video. I've a 1150GS and this is definitely one video I will be coming back to. It's the fine detail that you put into your video that's made it worth while. In exactly the opposite way that Haynes manuals leave you hanging with descriptions like " look for wear". Your example of the oil seal wear was bang on. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thanks for your time and patience in posting this video, and the useful tips and potential oversights in this challenge.....
James, thanks for the brilliant video. I’m pretty sure You did the best step-by-step tutorial how to maintance the final drive. Thanks and waiting for more!
Lovely presentation but I strongly disagree that measuring for correct shimming is not needed. Most of these final drives that wore out prematurely, and lots did, was due to incorrect shimming at the factory. To re- measure for correct shims required is a simple technique using small strips of soft solder. You may be able to google this up if you are interested.
Thank you for this very thorough walk through! I have an R1100RT. I recently acquired it and don’t know very much about BMW’s Your video demystified the final drive to such a degree, I no longer live in fear of things going wrong with it! Cheers!
This video is so wonderfully full of tips and makes the job, not easy, but DOABLE! I'm literally creating a playlist for my R1150r because this video is one i will absolutely watch when this time comes due! THANKS !!! :-D
The absolute best presentation I've seen on this topic!
Nice work James - Thanks!
Great video thanks, one question, did the customer not want the corrosion sorted on the housing? would have been a good time to do it !
Anyway keep up the good work, regards, Chris (Suffolk UK).
Here's a tip for removing the tapered bearing inner race. Temporarily install to (beefy) VW beetle wheel bolts (lug bolts) into the other end and to clamp assembly in a vise. Install the bolts into the same holes that the BMW wheel bolts are installed into. Install the bolts in 2 of the 4 holes with placement 180 degrees from one another (recall, a straight line is formed between two points). The bolt heads are then clamped into the vice. Works great!
This is the first video of yours I watched. I watched it al. You may think it was to long I just realy liked learning al the tips and tricks. Thanks for you're time and efford in making these !! Cheers!
Thank you very much for showing how to do it!
Happened upon the channel by chance, you were repairing the SP1 with the alarm problem. Anyway, saw your video on the GS diff and watched it entirely. Brilliant stuff! There are far too many videos that make technical jobs seem too easy. You've shown this job in amazing detail and, being a K1200LT owner, if required I'd definitely tackle this job myself. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind words 😁
Highly entertaining this was! I don't even have a bike but watched and enjoyed every minute of it, cheers!
Thank you very much for a vert detailed video. It is not a single minute too long. I am replacing my rear wheel bearing at this moment and find you detailed video extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing. All the best, and keep up the excellent work
Thanks very much Karl, I'm glad you found it helpful.
Absolutely the best video Iv ever seen,, Iv just recently purchased a bmw r1100s so this is of real interest to me,, your explanation as you work is perfect.👍👍👍👍👍
This is an excellent video. My friend and I have just done his final drive on his GSA. We were told to get a 19 ball bearing from bmw. They say you can get a 17 ball from after market places but that it does not last. We still need to find the o-ring buf can't find a part number.
Thank you again for a wonderful vid. Pete from Johannesburg South Africa.
Man.., an epic job!., Thanks for showing us this, may need to do the FD on my GS this winter..
Amazing work! Thank you very much for all your time!
I don't own a shaft drive bike but it was very interesting to see how this is done. Thanks for putting the time in.
Five years later, I'm buying one of these today :D :D :D
Really clear and concise. Thanks 🙏🏻
Great video, very informative, thanks for taking the time to do this
I'm glad I found your channel. Amazing amount of valuable information. Thank you very much.
Absolutely the best detailed video I’ve seen . Your tips and instructions are absolutely the best . Thank you 🙏🏻
Great video brother. I really enjoyed it and as others have pointed out, the combination of good camera angle in fixed position with the detailed commentary (and spot of tea) is helpful. Good stuff. Keep it up. cheers
Excellent video Sir. Just about to tear into my 2003 R1150RT
Best of luck!
The best tool the one between the ears. Good tips and glad it turned out to be a how-to. I believe the 1150RT is the same so would apply this to my bike.
(2 years after) yeah. It really took me 2 years to get to it. Wouldn’t it make more sense (if it is not the case which I am not certain as I see only ghat it is Castroil, to lube the final assembly with the gear oil that is used on final drive 80w90 (clymer)? Thank you
Great video. Thank you. Clear, accurate and honest.:))🤟🏻✌🏻👍🏻
i dont have any bmw bike but i watched it all! great work!
Great video mate , .. gonna spend some money in tools for this 😊
Thanks a lot
Thanks much for your valuable time, professional advice and consideration. I hope to ride now as I could not afford nor am I near a mechanic. thanks again.
Good thing about having the butane torch is....you can always reheat your cup of tea...haha.. Great video anyway
Simply brilliant - worth watching just for the presentation!
fantastic detail, thanks for saving me a lot of study!
That was the absolute BEST "how-to" video I've ever seen... Subscribed! Thanks for the breakdown.
Good video and lots of good tips, I don't have a GS but these tips can be used for many jobs. Thanks :)
Awesome video, love the detail and totally understand not wanting to edit stuff together!
Brilliant, just what I needed, really appreciate your efforts
great video! thanks for doing that.
where can u get that stem bearing installer like you used here great video thx scott
When I did a Suzuki 2 stroke crank bearings I put the casing in the oven so I could control the temperature. Some of the people I shared college halls of residence with complained about the smell!
Thank you Sir For all you teach us .👍👍👍
Fantastic vid, watched it all during lunch and bookmarked it for future reference. My '02 1150RT is at 54K miles on the original FD, so this may come in handy one day.
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Awesome video. Wow....very detailed oriented. And he cracks me up a few times too. Long video but good to see all the tips! THANK YOU.
In aviation we use liquid nitrogen to cool the parts before assembly.
Also good for freezing all sorts of shit you really shouldn't.
James - it's a fine long video and shows your expertise and experience very clearly. You have all the special tools needed for this rebuild, and you've done it all many times before. So rather than trying to do the job myself in another 10K miles, when my odometer reads 35K, wouldn't it be much simpler if I were to just send you my rear hub ? Please quote me a price !
Nice one mate. got yourself a new subscriber.
Replacing my FD bearing now following your advice and tips. But leaving the bevel box in situ.
Damn, only installed one shim and found the other in my rag pile. Now again disassembled to re-install 2nd shim. My fault for working in a cramped garage with all bits’n’pieces around me.
Wonderful guide and video!
excellent..... do you have the numbers of the bearings and seals please
Make sure you put those pivot sleeve back in and tape them securely so they stay in contact with the needle bearings. They will easily fall out if you don't while you are working on it.
Congratulations, the best video I've ever seen, impeccable work very nice 👌
Thank you so very much for the very informative video.
Excelente vídeo !!. Muy didáctico, explicado con tranquilidad. El trabajo realizado con cariño y con las herramientas adecuadas, es mucho mas fácil. Felicitaciones me es de gran utilidad !! One question, heat first the screws corresponding to the needle bearings (where the transmission pivots) to be able to remove them? Thank you !!
Great video! Had fun watching and listening :-) Thank you!
Great Video as usual. Just wondered if you heated the housing to soften the thread lock on the pivot pins?
Those bolts with the normal roller bearing and the tapered roller - do they need to be heated before you undo them? (I ride an R1100RT but the final drive is the same ) I am going to need to do rear wheel bearing at some point.
I'm not 109% sure which bolts you mean? That said there are no bolts you should need to heat up to remove.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV I was referring to the two bolts that hold the final drive to the swingarm and have the pivot in them. I've seen conflicting advice saying that you need to heat them before removal or you will break them.
Likewise I've seen advice that says you need to heat the main bearing to get it off too ( in an oven to 100C)
@@ruthmoreton6975 The reason you'll see conflicting advice is there isn't just one way of doing things. The use of heat on something is always a judgment call depending on the situation. I've undone plenty without needing heat but some do. There are basically no right and wrong answers with subjects like this. Just personal experiences.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV thank you very much. I think, with it being my first attempt when I try to do it, I will use a bit of heat to help release those bolts. It can't hurt. I am taking note of the essential tools too. I will make sure I get the right pullers.
Thank you, very nice. I have few questions for you: I have a 1999 BMW K1200 LT which has a shaft drive, looks exactly like this one. I need to rebuild it as it is leaking and has metal shavings in the oil. It is a weak point on the LT because of the weight. Is the rebuild on the LT more or less the same as this one on the GS ?
Also how much would you say the parts costs are (Roughly) ? I am in the US of course so they maybe a bit cheaper. And what would be the cost of these specialized tools that I need to do the job ? I have the hammer and what not.
And how often would you recommend changing the Final drive gear oil on these bikes ?
And finally, does using a Heat Gun accomplish the same task as using a torch or do I need a torch ?
Thank you.
Tha short answer is no it's not the same, you'll need a press to remove Bearings etc. To many differences to go into but much more difficult to do than the 1150.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Thank you. I guess I am better off having someone rebuild it than buying a new one since they have known defects even when new. I assume the RT Final drive is more similar to the GS one then ? I also have a 1999 RT. But the final drive on it seems to be fine, even at almost 100K miles.
Brilliant. Loved the presentation!. No a lot of bumpf! Thumbs up.
Well done video, great explanation and some really great tips. I like your format and in my opinion not to long for the amount of information. Best explained video I have seen thus far. Again, great job👍
Watched the entire video. Very informative. Come to find out I need to replace the pinion gear bearing. The pinion gear, when pulled has play (in and out). The driveshaft does the same thing. Do I need to replace the bearings that house the driveshaft in the transmission? Also watched your ABS removal video and was inspired to give it a try. Had some fun with it and wasn't as hard as I'd though. I prefer non-ABS brakes. Seem to get a better feel. Thanks, Chris
I watched the whole video even though I don't own a BMW shaft driven bike some useful tips! I have a few Park tool tools around when I used to fix bicycles getting into motorbikes was a game changer as they are so much more complex.
As for the ads I wouldn't mind as it's up to you and getting something more out of the videos may motivate you to make more content etc. I can imagine it's a pain working while trying to record I've thought about it when doing the odd job on bikes then gave up as there's some faffing around involved.
Hi, I'm in the middle of doing this job on my 2002 gs and I've only got 1 of the big shims in my FD, is this normal do you know? Fantastic video by the way 👍
Hi what is the torque setting for the 7 bolts that house the wheel bearing thanks Mark
Thanks so much!!!
Now I'm ready to do that.
My best.
Thanks for the video, just what i was looking for!!
thanks for the video, really helpful. But what about the other bearings and seal? the small spiral bevel gear that gets drive from the shaft to that big wheel drive gear. should that be changed too or is it unlikely they fail? As there will be oil in that assembly I would imagine there is a seal there to prevent oil going into the shaft drive housing. thanks
Great video but how did you know you had the drive shaft phasing correct?
Because the U-Joints are fixed to the drive shaft on both ends so it's impossible to change the phasing when removing the final drive unit.
Best how to video I've seen.
Have you ever worked on a R1200RT (K26)? I had an issue with the driveshaft joint and pinion rusting causing it to round off the FD pinion and the drive shaft, cost me £2k to buy replacement parts BUT i cannot get the damn pivot bolt off, I used heat because it has threadlocker, 2 ft breaker bars, standing on them, impact driver and 2 x mobile mechs. Still cant get the bugger off, so its been sat for 2 years. Any advice? thanks for posting the content.
Great show,
I helped me a lot by performing the same repair for the first time specially the tips that you would not find in the shop manual
Mine has a lot of backlash between crownwheel and pinion how do you adjust it out.
Many thanks. I was about to attempt the bearing change. Tips have been very useful. I’ve missed other but I will look at more of your videos. Have you done anything on the ABS system. I really love my bike having had it near 20 years and toured quite a bit around souther and central Africa but the bloody ABS fault drives me mad having this constant light flashing. If I reset it last for a few days then I got to reset again.
brill film not being a BMW owner i still found it useful , i used to heat up parts in a low oven !!
wow, very good video. Recently purchased my bmw r1150gs. Wanna know all the little details about this bike. i'm interested in your other video's now.
awesome vid very detailed best how to video i have seen
Great video James! Thank you.
Hello there, really nice and very educational video, thank you... I'm going to do the same on my R1100R real soon.
Great detail in all aspects!
At 75,000 miles, my R1100RT final drive has given up the ghost. This video has saved the day! Great commentary and humor (cat's ass?) ;-) Anyway, you mentioned something about funding. Considering you've saved me a fortune by allowing me to perform the repair myself, I'd be happy to throw a few bucks in the hat. How can I do this?
Thanks very much :) I'm glad you found the video helpful.
If you'd like to support the creation of more content like this please go here.
www.patreon.com/SuperbikeSurgeryTV
Thanks Again.
Jim.
How many miles had the bearing done before it went wobbly?
Brilliant video with some good tips, thx
Great video once again.👍
nice tutorial , cheers👍
What kind petrol do you use for cleaning?
Spiral bevel crown and pinions are a snack compared adjusting to hypoid ones .Gear oils are a bit smelly but not such a bit deal compared to washing in diesel or working with used diesel oil. Brake clean and other solvents dry out your hands something fearful.
this is the second time I watched this as I have a GSA great stuff did you ever come up with any conclusion on pay as you view.........you really should have a coffee account so we can help on your way..... there well worth it ...including your waffling......lol...... cheers Jim.......
Thanks for your positivity 🙏 The best way to support the channel is to join the Patreon group,Really not necessary though... www.patreon.com/SuperbikeSurgeryTV
Sir, thank you for your video its very informative in every step. But quick question you used two(2) metal shims, is it supposed to be one or two, i am rebuilding mine '02 R1150RT and only one metal shim came out. and USA oem part diagram shows one metal shim. Could you help me out. Thank You
It's not unusual to only see one shim. They are available in different sizes in the factory to allow for manufacturing tolerances, somtimes two smaller ones are used instead of one large. Assuming you are using good quality replacement parts there is no reason to assume you will have a problem.
Great video!
I also have r1150gs 2003 with 46000 km.
I have small freeplay on rear wheel (puling it with both hands by the top and bottom of the wheel).
I think it's about 1-2 mm of freeplay, but I can't understand, what is correct measure of rear wheel freeplay?
Please, give advice!
And did I get you right- no need to tune up this adjusting shims on the small and big bearings? Just live them? So where from freeplay comes?
Thanks you!
Quite often it's the paralever bearing causing the play, which the the one joining the bevel box to the shaft, the one with the big allen bolt described in the video. Check that first before you strip out the bevel box.
we the people the bmw owners dont give a fk about editing we need what you do the extra info the 'how to' because your narative input is awesome thx for this now i am confidant to do this meself next winter ,its ppl like you that keep the world sane ;)
Kind words, thank-you 👍