Wow cutting off the stern of a canoe! how can I not watch that. Just looking at your workshop this is no problem for you. Just love these “how to” videos! This was easy to follow along. Its all in the details. Nice drainage system!
Wow this video is perfect! you thought of everything. never would have thought to create a drainage channel. I am looking to do this same exact project to my canoe and your video really helped! thanks
I did the same thing to a fiberglass canoe a few years ago, only I angled my transom 17 degrees in at the bottom. My research said all small boats are done this way to help prevent water from splashing in.
Thanks, that's a good idea and it makes sense to do that. With my electric trolling motor I haven't had any issues with water coming in the stern. If I ever do this again I'll make an angle to the stern.
@@LesDyer One mistake I did make is that I did not entirely cover the transom with fiberglass cloth and resin, I just sealed the joint with fiberglass tape. Well after 10 years the plywood transom is showing signs of wear. I just finished covering the whole thing with fiberglass cloth. I should have done that to begin with as you did.
This whole project of working on an old canoe was just for fun for me. We all learn from each other. I really like RUclips for the information that can be shared.
I have a very huge 16' freighter canoe that I want to short down (to 10-12'), I was wondering how to build a transom on a such corner edge (no lip)... you gave me very good ideas! 😀
@@jonathanquenneville7054 I used white pine. I figure the fiber glass will preserve the wood and the paint will protect the fiber glass. It should out last me being 76 years old. :)
@@LesDyer ya thats really good !💪🤟 I start m'y project and i build like you! the same at 100% but now im block... I dont know where i can get de rear drain plug like you 😬
Excellent job! Very professional. Im doing the same thing and have a couple questions. Is there a reason for the foam in the wood seat or could that be used as storage or live well? Also does it track and turn well in the wind? I have trouble turning my canoe when there’s a breeze and I think I need to make a deeper V shape on the hull or something similar for tracking.
The only reason I put the foam inside the seat was because it came out of the end that I cut off. I thought there should be some flotation in the rear as well as the front. If it's windy I put the pontoons on and put some weight in the front. I haven't had any trouble turning.
Fill a LARGE roll-top DRYBAG/SACK with WATER at the BOW this helps keep the front down and aids steering. you really don't want to try going behond 4-5 knots in a canoe. it will flip up an over in seconds and can sink. have a ENGINE CUT OFF LEAD attached to your wrist at all times. get used to handling the boat and have loadsa fun
Thanks for the information on the speed of the canoe. I really don't have any intention of going any faster. A 45 lb thrust trolling motor is all I use.
@@LesDyerStick you a big thick ole girl up front there next to the cooler. Shell drop your bow down and give it some water to grab onto in your turns. I just had to get a little bigger motor is all
A little late to the game, but do you have any insights into how far back you built that seat, based on having it on the water? I'd have moved it up a foot or so, but that's based on nothing but my experience with my Grumman Sportcanoe and I may be wrong. Especially if you're usually canoeing with 2 in the boat. I run solo in the Grumman from the middle seat with a tiller extension to balance the weight.
That's a good observation on your part. You would be wise to move it up a little toward the middle. I put the seat in the same place the original seat was in. That makes it easier to reach the trolling motor, but it does raise the bow up some. I put the battery and my gear up front and that helps balance it out. When I take the pontoons off I have a seat made to fit the middle of the canoe so I can paddle it like a kayak. All in all this project was just something to give something to do. In my case it worked out fine. Thanks for watching.
I don't think it added very much weight. If I had it to do again, I would move the seat forward a little and raise the sides in the stern up some. Like someone in the comments said put more of an angle to the transom.
While i appreciate the cradftsmanship, I simply cannot fathom why you did this to a perfectly fine canoe. Certainly, mounting a motor on the very back can't be a good enough reason as it is the worst possible place to mount a motor on a canoe. And, cutting off the stern shortens an already short waterline, which does not help stability.
It's still a perfectly good canoe. It makes tight turns. I can paddle from the middle like any other canoe. If I put the pontoons on it I can stand up and fish. It was a fun project. Thanks for watching.
@@LesDyer An outrigger is a great option. That's what I do with Grumman canoes: A trimaran setup on an 18ftr with 80ft of sail for boat-in camping, and a single outrigger on a 15, with a motor on the pontoon side for fishing. Grumman made complete sailing kits for years, including rudders that affix to the stern stem. I set the motor straight ahead and use a norwegian tiller arrangement to steer. Again, you did a fine job on your mod. Craftsmanship is no longer common.👍
Wow cutting off the stern of a canoe! how can I not watch that. Just looking at your workshop this is no problem for you. Just love these “how to” videos! This was easy to follow along. Its all in the details. Nice drainage system!
Thanks 👍Glad you liked it
Within 1 min of watching I want to cut the stern off mine. We just cant help ourselves
Do it!@@Yellowlab247_Outdoors
Wow this video is perfect! you thought of everything. never would have thought to create a drainage channel. I am looking to do this same exact project to my canoe and your video really helped! thanks
Thanks, glad you liked the video. I wish much success with your canoe
i saw a canoe with the back end all damaged wish i got it now grate video
Thanks
Well, now I have a new project! I was gifted a 14ft canoe and want to put a trolling motor on and dont care for the side mounts. Great video!
Side mount is the best/safest way to power a typical canoe. Go ahead. Find out.
I did the same thing to a fiberglass canoe a few years ago, only I angled my transom 17 degrees in at the bottom. My research said all small boats are done this way to help prevent water from splashing in.
Thanks, that's a good idea and it makes sense to do that. With my electric trolling motor I haven't had any issues with water coming in the stern. If I ever do this again I'll make an angle to the stern.
@@LesDyer One mistake I did make is that I did not entirely cover the transom with fiberglass cloth and resin, I just sealed the joint with fiberglass tape. Well after 10 years the plywood transom is showing signs of wear. I just finished covering the whole thing with fiberglass cloth. I should have done that to begin with as you did.
This whole project of working on an old canoe was just for fun for me. We all learn from each other. I really like RUclips for the information that can be shared.
A job well done! It doesn't get much more thorough than that. Very nice.
Thanks very much
Great job on the canoe les! And the Video too!
Glad you liked it!
This is exactly what I'm looking for. Jr n I are hooking for a record channel this year and that's what we need
Awesome video. I’m replacing my flat back stern currently and picked up a few tips watching your video. Great job and hope you catch a lunker!
Thanks, you too!
Really great job. Planning on doing this to a salvage canoe that would otherwise go to the dump
Thanks for watching
Thankyou Sir! I am doing the same to mine, your way! Cheers.
Thanks it was a fun project
I enjoyed your video it was very relaxing. I often wondered how to do that procedure and now I know thank you.
Thanks
I have a very huge 16' freighter canoe that I want to short down (to 10-12'), I was wondering how to build a transom on a such corner edge (no lip)... you gave me very good ideas! 😀
Sounds great!
Wow! Thank you for making this video!
Glad you liked it!
Great job on the work and the video
Many Thanks
I have a 14' fiberglass canoe that I was wondering if I could convert as well. This is a great video!
Many Thanks, I had fun making it.
Really Nice project 💪!! Thats why i want Do the same of my Cano .. i have question .. what is the size for the playwood ? ( Sorry for my inglish )
Thanks, Plywood is 1/2 inch thick
@@LesDyer thaks a lot !! I really apreciate 🤟💪
Ans sorry .. i have last questions for you .. the 2x4 u use it . What type of wood u use ?
@@jonathanquenneville7054 I used white pine. I figure the fiber glass will preserve the wood and the paint will protect the fiber glass. It should out last me being 76 years old. :)
@@LesDyer ya thats really good !💪🤟 I start m'y project and i build like you! the same at 100% but now im block... I dont know where i can get de rear drain plug like you 😬
Can you do this with any canoe no matter material
Excellent job! Very professional. Im doing the same thing and have a couple questions. Is there a reason for the foam in the wood seat or could that be used as storage or live well? Also does it track and turn well in the wind? I have trouble turning my canoe when there’s a breeze and I think I need to make a deeper V shape on the hull or something similar for tracking.
The only reason I put the foam inside the seat was because it came out of the end that I cut off. I thought there should be some flotation in the rear as well as the front. If it's windy I put the pontoons on and put some weight in the front. I haven't had any trouble turning.
Fill a LARGE roll-top DRYBAG/SACK
with WATER
at the BOW
this helps keep the front down and aids steering.
you really don't want to try going behond 4-5 knots in a canoe. it will flip up an over in seconds and can sink.
have a ENGINE CUT OFF LEAD attached to your wrist at all times.
get used to handling the boat
and have loadsa fun
Thanks for the information on the speed of the canoe. I really don't have any intention of going any faster. A 45 lb thrust trolling motor is all I use.
@@LesDyerStick you a big thick ole girl up front there next to the cooler. Shell drop your bow down and give it some water to grab onto in your turns. I just had to get a little bigger motor is all
A little late to the game, but do you have any insights into how far back you built that seat, based on having it on the water? I'd have moved it up a foot or so, but that's based on nothing but my experience with my Grumman Sportcanoe and I may be wrong. Especially if you're usually canoeing with 2 in the boat. I run solo in the Grumman from the middle seat with a tiller extension to balance the weight.
That's a good observation on your part. You would be wise to move it up a little toward the middle. I put the seat in the same place the original seat was in. That makes it easier to reach the trolling motor, but it does raise the bow up some. I put the battery and my gear up front and that helps balance it out. When I take the pontoons off I have a seat made to fit the middle of the canoe so I can paddle it like a kayak. All in all this project was just something to give something to do. In my case it worked out fine. Thanks for watching.
Great job thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Did it add a lot of extra weight? I want to do this also but I drag my canoe by myself a lot and can not afford to add to much weight. Great job
I don't think it added very much weight. If I had it to do again, I would move the seat forward a little and raise the sides in the stern up some. Like someone in the comments said put more of an angle to the transom.
Nice job!!
Many Thanks
The dad I always wanted!
Very interesting!
Glad you think so!
Nice job personally i would rather storage under the seat
Superb !
Wonderful!
Many thanks!
AMAZINGNES!!!
Nice.
Thanks!
Your lucky; what do you call a guy who crosses his hands using a chop or radial arm saw? Stumpy. Bad shop safety! See 2:11 PS Thanks for the video.
Thanks for pointing that out to me. You're right you should never cross your arms on a chop saw. Can't be too safe.
I love old timers using drills fro screws. Lol most of the time stripping the head.
Stick a 3.3 HP on it and take off.👍
I have a four stroke 4hp, but it's on the heavy side. :) Thanks for watching.
Yes!
While i appreciate the cradftsmanship, I simply cannot fathom why you did this to a perfectly fine canoe. Certainly, mounting a motor on the very back can't be a good enough reason as it is the worst possible place to mount a motor on a canoe. And, cutting off the stern shortens an already short waterline, which does not help stability.
It's still a perfectly good canoe. It makes tight turns. I can paddle from the middle like any other canoe. If I put the pontoons on it I can stand up and fish. It was a fun project. Thanks for watching.
@@LesDyer An outrigger is a great option. That's what I do with Grumman canoes: A trimaran setup on an 18ftr with 80ft of sail for boat-in camping, and a single outrigger on a 15, with a motor on the pontoon side for fishing. Grumman made complete sailing kits for years, including rudders that affix to the stern stem. I set the motor straight ahead and use a norwegian tiller arrangement to steer. Again, you did a fine job on your mod. Craftsmanship is no longer common.👍