Quick question. I purchased the the GSM-Auto 4G to activate a remote siren. T- Mobile sim works great, however where I need the system to be placed there is no T-Mobile service. AT&T sim card will not connect at all. When I called AT&T and gave the the IMEI number, they told me that IMEI number is not compatible with their network. Any thoughts??
Activate the SIM card and insert. You can set how long the relay stays open and a couple of other settings, but none of it is complicated though. The last time I looked, these control boards were getting hard to find. Be sure to get 4g LTE
@@uhoh71 thank you. Did you use the app to program how long the relays stay on and how did you create a white list for certain numbers. Thanks again for all your help.
@@kyleplayer248 i did create a whitelist. Didn't want to take the risk of some SPAM caller accidently closing my trap. I did use the app. I set it to stay open for around 2 seconds. I figured out how to hook it up to my computer also, but it's been a while so I can't remember the details but it worked. The app is much easier to use.
I have this same gsm. But when it came in, there wasn’t any instructions. How do I set it up and assign only my number to trigger it? Any info would be extremely helpful. Thank you
Hi, I've been trying to learn and hopefully get something figured out on my trap. I'm kind of new to all of the workings of electrical stuff, but I've been studying up on it. What size wires do you use to connect into the controller, does it matter if you use 12 gauge on all of it? I saw on another deal where they used 24 ga, just can't really find what is better to use as far as the detailed working of the project. Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
The board itself hardly requires any amps to operate, we're talking milliamps, so about any size wire would work. However, the 35 lb solenoid I used pulls about 25 amps for just a second. I used 10 gage on mine to feed both the board and the solenoid with one wire. The wire is only about 10ft long so current loss isn't bad and I've had no issues. 12 ga will probably work fine especially if you use two separate pairs to feed the board and the solenoid. I would try it. If you were holding power to the solenoid for more than a few seconds, you could have heating issues and current loss due to the resistance from the heat.
Hi Joe, I built a trap based off his designs. Check out the video series, I go over the type of wiring to use. ruclips.net/video/Iegzk2RUMuU/видео.html
What type of uses did you use from the positive and negative terminals? Where they 12 AWG gauge 30A blade automotive or glass tube fuses? They look like blade fuses judging by the encasement?
I got the fuse holders from tractor supply. It's the blade type mini fuses. I got the smallest they make. For the circuit board which I think was 3 amp. For the lock poper had to go to about a 30 amp fuse. I can look when I get home from work to see exactly what size they are. Edited to update fuse sizes; 3 amp for the board and 30 amp for the lock poper.
@@phillipfogleman3430 This is the same one I use on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/402275876756 It doesn't take much force to trip it, so you may could go with something lighter. Worked well though.
Robert my problem is finding a controller that will work on verizon. Looked and everything is att or cdma(Verizon 3g). I understand they won't start new device on 3g. What can I do?
There are codes you text to it to change settings like latch time and other stuff. You can also plug it into your computer with the cable that comes with it and use the software. You can also check signal strength with text commands.
It's been awhile since I've used this but I would say the setting called "latching" is the problem. You can set it to stay on to hold or "latch". Evidently you don't have enough fuse/circuitry to handle the app draw for that. Go back into settings and set it to close only momentarily for about 2 seconds. It's in the instructions manual
Are you able to use any sim card? My cell is Verizon and the area I'm at Verizon works the best, that's why I'm asking. These particular ones seem to be att and T Mobile.
You could but the higher voltage going through the relay to the lock popper will burn up the contacts much sooner than the voltage it takes to operate the solenoid instead.
I used a light gage wire. I think it was 16 ga. Current to the solenoid only lasts a few seconds, so the wire doesn't get hot. Carries plenty of amps to work the solenoid. The control board is only using milliamps so you could use really small gage wire for it. Some folks use telephone wire for the board and to the trigger connections on the solenoid.
One lesson I learned with the small trap is it needs about a 12 inch lip around the top to keep the hogs from jumping out. Mine is 5 feet tall and still had one jump up on the rim and flip out of it. Out of bunches of hogs, he was the only one though. Already modified the trap.
Quick question. I purchased the the GSM-Auto 4G to activate a remote siren. T- Mobile sim works great, however where I need the system to be placed there is no T-Mobile service. AT&T sim card will not connect at all. When I called AT&T and gave the the IMEI number, they told me that IMEI number is not compatible with their network. Any thoughts??
I have only ever used AT&T with mine. Just activate the sim with a cell phone then put it in the relay.
@Robert Boyd did you have to program the board or just activate the SIM card and insert?
Activate the SIM card and insert. You can set how long the relay stays open and a couple of other settings, but none of it is complicated though. The last time I looked, these control boards were getting hard to find. Be sure to get 4g LTE
@@uhoh71 thank you. Did you use the app to program how long the relays stay on and how did you create a white list for certain numbers. Thanks again for all your help.
@@kyleplayer248 i did create a whitelist. Didn't want to take the risk of some SPAM caller accidently closing my trap. I did use the app. I set it to stay open for around 2 seconds. I figured out how to hook it up to my computer also, but it's been a while so I can't remember the details but it worked. The app is much easier to use.
I have this same gsm. But when it came in, there wasn’t any instructions. How do I set it up and assign only my number to trigger it? Any info would be extremely helpful. Thank you
If you add an email address to your RUclips channel, I can email you the gsm auto manual. The seller should be able to provide the manual as well.
Did the cellular relay hold up well to being outside humidity
Yes, but it's been mounted in a sealed box. One of those metal military ammo cans. I made sure to seal all the holes for the wires going in as well.
Hi, I've been trying to learn and hopefully get something figured out on my trap. I'm kind of new to all of the workings of electrical stuff, but I've been studying up on it. What size wires do you use to connect into the controller, does it matter if you use 12 gauge on all of it? I saw on another deal where they used 24 ga, just can't really find what is better to use as far as the detailed working of the project. Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
The board itself hardly requires any amps to operate, we're talking milliamps, so about any size wire would work. However, the 35 lb solenoid I used pulls about 25 amps for just a second. I used 10 gage on mine to feed both the board and the solenoid with one wire. The wire is only about 10ft long so current loss isn't bad and I've had no issues. 12 ga will probably work fine especially if you use two separate pairs to feed the board and the solenoid. I would try it. If you were holding power to the solenoid for more than a few seconds, you could have heating issues and current loss due to the resistance from the heat.
Hi Joe, I built a trap based off his designs. Check out the video series, I go over the type of wiring to use. ruclips.net/video/Iegzk2RUMuU/видео.html
What type of uses did you use from the positive and negative terminals? Where they 12 AWG gauge 30A blade automotive or glass tube fuses? They look like blade fuses judging by the encasement?
I got the fuse holders from tractor supply. It's the blade type mini fuses. I got the smallest they make. For the circuit board which I think was 3 amp. For the lock poper had to go to about a 30 amp fuse. I can look when I get home from work to see exactly what size they are. Edited to update fuse sizes; 3 amp for the board and 30 amp for the lock poper.
What is the name of the transmitter circuit board you are using?
KiaoTime GSM-AUTO-DC-US4G
There is a link in one of the comments below. However shows unavailable. It can be found though if you search.
Do you have a diagram for wiring
No. Haven't taken the time to make one. Pretty simple circuit though.
Where did you get the circuit board for the call box?
Amazon. Showing unavailable now. This is the one I used: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5LGJLA/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Where did you find the lock popper? I can't seem to find 1 similar to it
Ordered it off of eBay.
@@uhoh71 do you have a part number by chance? Only thing I find are small car lock actuators. I appreciate the speedy response too by the way
@@phillipfogleman3430 This is the same one I use on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/402275876756
It doesn't take much force to trip it, so you may could go with something lighter. Worked well though.
@@uhoh71 thank you very much i appreciate it
Robert my problem is finding a controller that will work on verizon. Looked and everything is att or cdma(Verizon 3g). I understand they won't start new device on 3g. What can I do?
How do you program/setup the cell calling part
There are codes you text to it to change settings like latch time and other stuff. You can also plug it into your computer with the cable that comes with it and use the software. You can also check signal strength with text commands.
I have a few questions about your set up I was wondering is there a number I can contact you with
The problem I’m having is it opens but doesn’t close until I call it back and it blows the fuse. What am I doing wrong?
It's been awhile since I've used this but I would say the setting called "latching" is the problem. You can set it to stay on to hold or "latch". Evidently you don't have enough fuse/circuitry to handle the app draw for that. Go back into settings and set it to close only momentarily for about 2 seconds. It's in the instructions manual
I’ll will look for that. Thank you.
Are you able to use any sim card? My cell is Verizon and the area I'm at Verizon works the best, that's why I'm asking. These particular ones seem to be att and T Mobile.
I think it has to be on the ATT/T mobile system. I've never tried it with anything else.
Can u not run the wires straight to the lock poper and skip the selonoid
You could but the higher voltage going through the relay to the lock popper will burn up the contacts much sooner than the voltage it takes to operate the solenoid instead.
What gauge wire did you use?
I used a light gage wire. I think it was 16 ga. Current to the solenoid only lasts a few seconds, so the wire doesn't get hot. Carries plenty of amps to work the solenoid. The control board is only using milliamps so you could use really small gage wire for it. Some folks use telephone wire for the board and to the trigger connections on the solenoid.
@@uhoh71 Thanks for the reply! Working on this exact setup now. Ill let you know how it goes. Thanks for the video
One lesson I learned with the small trap is it needs about a 12 inch lip around the top to keep the hogs from jumping out. Mine is 5 feet tall and still had one jump up on the rim and flip out of it. Out of bunches of hogs, he was the only one though. Already modified the trap.
Robert Boyd how do you program the call box
Don't buy