Handheld routers came first and somebody had the idea to mount them upside down in a router table later. So UP is toward the router, and DOWN is away from the router. That's how I remember which is which when it comes to upcut or downcut spiral bits. I hope that helps.
Thank you for the informative and practical video. I know the manufacturers call these "spiral" bits. The correct name for this geometry is helix because the radius is the same along the rotation axis. In a spiral the radius increases or decreases. DNA is in a helix, and an old style wood screw is a spiral. Circular staircases are usually helical, like inside a cylinder. If they climb inside a cone, they will be spiral.
Good stuff! I know there have probably been countless spiral-vs-straight comparisons, but including a straight bit for comparison would have been useful.
@@georgedavall9449 Lol. I wasn't trying to be smart 😂 It's just I look at a lot of woodworking videos including Router bits and I never realized there were different types. This video was very helpful
@@RealMangaAddict it’s all good MangaAddict! I sometimes like to ‘throw out’ a facetious remark here and there. You’re obvious a bigger person for your response, and I appreciate that, and respect you. Stay safe! Wear those masks, as Biden is watching! 😳🙄😃😁🤣👍✌🏻🇺🇸
First congratulations for the channel. I really like your videos, unfortunately I don't understand your language and there's no translation into Portuguese. But you can always learn something. 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Another great video from Colin. I had no idea up spiral, down spiral, compression and fine router bits even existed! I learned something from Colin again. I always wanted to get a router, as they look a great machine to have, but not sure if I'd use one that much (hobbyist)
Hi I make the odd sign every now and then that fine down cut bit looks like it might work pretty nice for me do you have a link or let me no where to buy one your videos are great they help out a lot keep making these videos
Colin I’m trying to make wooden wheels with spokes I have used bandsaw and and jigsaw and not very good at cutting I want to use my m18 compact router and I’m going to make a jig out of acrylics what’s the best bit should I use with my router
Thanks for the great explanation of up and down spiral bits. I'm just starting to explore the possibilities of routers even though I got my first one in 1981. For most of your videos your lighting is very nice just the way it is. When you're trying to show textures like the tearout and fuzzies, a lamp set to one side to cross light the wood will make it stand out. (Many years as a pro photographer.)
Many of the CNCs tend to make several passes, getting lower and lower until they have cut through. In the case of your compression bit, the first pass at the top of the workpiece would be an up-spiral, but that would change to a down-spiral as the passes got deeper and deeper. It would be interesting to see the results of the 4 bits with the CNC doing what you did free hand. Also, when you cut all the way through free hand, the chips could drop out the bottom which would not be the case for a workpiece on the CNC's waste board. It would be interesting to see how the bits fared on a CNC with regard to chip clearing.
I recently used a spiral upcut bit while cutting exact fit dadoes in 3/4 inch plywood. While cutting one of the dadoes the router began laboring so I stopped cutting. Unfortunately the bit had loosened in the collet and started "drilling" deeper into the wood and penetrated through the bottom surface. Moral - tighten those bits!
Terry, I've had exactly the same when I used an upcut bit for the first time recently (in a box-joint jig I'd just made). The spiral is trying to drag the bit out of the collet and as you say, these bits need to be tightened more than "standard" bits.
@@helmshardover all router bits should be held securely. But if you top load bits (flip a router over) and just let them fall to the bottom of collets you're going to have a problem getting collets tight on bits. To understand why you have to imagine how the whole mechanism works. The nut driving the collet down into the shaft taper and the jaws of the collet grabbing the bit shank. When the bit can't move with the collet you're baked. Then you have to overcome the friction between the bit shank and the collet jaws to get the collet any tighter. Which you can do as you pop a blood vessel in the process. It is easier to just make sure the bit shank doesn't bottom out though. To that end I ball up a little bit of paper towel and stuff it into my router collets. Paper easily compresses yet holds bits up while they are waiting to be tightened. Problem solved.
@@1pcfred "all router bits should be held securely" - of course. I've been using Routers & Router tables for over 20 years, and never had a bit come loose till this one. It's a warning to anyone that what you perceive might be tight may be tested with an upcut bit, so give it more!
@@helmshardover in the past decades things have been changing. Now there's imported tools. Which has implications for Americans. Because foreigners don't really use our measuring system. They still like our money though. So I seen them selling 6 mm shank tools as 1/4" Now you can load a 6 mm bit into a 1/4" collet and it seems to hold. Up until you start running it anyways. Then it might slip some. Really if you want hold you want 1/2" shank bits. It's all about the surface area. 1/2" router bits are the luxury ride. They cost more because they're worth it.
Question for the expert (you): Would I be able to use my 1/8" shank Dremel bits, with a 1/4"-1/8" adapter, to use with my DeWALT DWP611 palm router? Please advise, thanks.
Upcut spiral bit is EASILY the fastest making grooves and heats up the least, since it clears the chips up away from the groove. Always use it for the first cut. And, it is as good in through cuts as a downcut or up/down bit.
One of the biggest advantages of spiral bits over straights, is that spirals prevent kickback issues due to the slicing rather than the chipping that straights do. For plunge cuts, either would work ok, but spirals REALLY shine with edge trimming/cutting.
Hi. Do you have a video that has all what we need to know about storing hard wood before using it, about grain structure, warping etc? If not, can you make such a guide video? I do not understand why woodworkers store wood a couple of months before they work it, they say it is to reach the humidity of the shop, but what about the humidity in the home of the end user? I am so confused.
Just got myself an upcut and snapped it in the first second,,, on Acrylic sheet,, am I missing something. How strong are these compared to the straight edge equivalent?
Thanks for the very informative video. Because straight bits will be the easiest to sharpen, would it not be better to take most material away first with a smaller diameter straight bit and then 'sneak cut' with a spiral bit?
Great video, does the article cover the cost to performance analysis? I'd like to see that. Do I just reverse some of these results if it's a router being used in table?
Can those bits be used to cut a compass for making circles ? Also what’s the difference between a plunge router and a compact one other than size ? I feel like a router does more and is less intimidating than a jigsaw. I want to start learning to use these tools for making my own art substrates.
Hey Colin, like your videos, good job! However, if you look more closely at your sample cuts, note that the "fine" router bit did not cut in the same type of grain that you tested the others in. It's especially noticeable in the pine, which seems to suffer more tearout than the others. I wonder if the "fine" would perform differently if you cut your pattern in that particular tight grain the others were tested in?
Colin, you have inspired me to do some testing as well. My testing will be around the CNC engraving that I do a lot. Currently, I don't use many spiral bits; mine are all the two flute straight bits. What I've heard is that if I'm hogging a lot of material out each pass, that a downcut spiral will have a tendancy to clog the routed pockets, even though the top edges are clean as you showed in this video. Depending on the type of wood (e.g., cedar), that clogging of sawdust in the routed channels could be a problem, whereas an upcut spiral bit won't have the clogging but the top edges won't be as clean. When you've used downcut spiral bits on your CNC router, have you ever had any problems with sawdust clogging as I've described? Just curious...
Using a down spiral in a CNC, like my Shark HD520, definitely forces the debris into the cut. This is usually the biggest issue when first starting a cut because the chips have no where to go. To help with this, add a ramp to your tool path so the bit doesn't plunge straight into the material and then start cutting. Also, you may need to adjust your spindle/router speed and your feed rate to get good chip size and evacuation. If you are not using some dust collection, adding some will help clear chips off the work surface so it is not driven back into the pocket. Hope this helps but I think in 2 years you may have figured this out on your own.
Many thanks for another very informative clip. Now I have a question please. Which bit would you recommend for cutting box joints on my router table? Thanks again.
As always a lot of practical information LOVE IT! but.....random question Colin, which came first the up or the down? seems like the compression bit would be suited to the CNC where you could really dial it in
They are. Used mostly for cutting double sided melamine. Lots of closest companys use them for cutting panels and shelving. Has to set up so it is just below the board. They can be sharpened three times. Solid carbide. I worked at a company that made and sharpened them.
Interesting - but they were all through cuts except the pine at the end. Bit performance in a through cut does show the bit's true advantages.. Only dadoes (or housings in other places) need to ignore the spiral bits' actions because all gets confused when not penetrating the wood.
I'd never heard of that "compression" bit before. Am I the only one who thinks that's an odd name? Did you use the same router and router speed for this demo? Thanks for a fine video!
I think it's a good name. Just hearing the name for the first time now, and I knew immediately that it would have opposing spirals "towards" each other and not away. Seems like it's named well if you can guess it's geometry instantly from the name alone.
One of the most important thing with this kind of bit is getting a high end carbide bit. A typical Freud spiral bit off the shelf from Home Depot dulls quickly and you're gonna get bad cuts.
Well yeah Freud makes all kinds of stuff, but the typical stuff off the shelf in Home Depot is 'Diablo' by Freud, and it's pretty low end for shop standards. You get what you pay for
Thanks for the video, one question, from your comparisons it looks like we never want to use an up spiral bit, it's obviously not the case since they exist, so in what situations we do want to use them? are they easier to cut? they produce less heat? they are cheaper? why and when should we use them?
Up is good for a router table since it will pull the work piece 'up' towards the router motor. On a non through cut it also cuts faster since it pulls the chips out of a tenon/groove/dado. So you can use it in situations like this where the tear out, if any, will not be noticable. I use Whiteside bits and I do not think the price differs for up vs down.
Check out MakeTech's New Video on CNC Bits For Beginners - ruclips.net/video/Od_std1q114/видео.html
You're such a great person... when I'm missing my dad, I like to watch your channel.
I'm living in the Netherlands and I'm also watching you're tips and tricks. I like them very much. Thanks.
Handheld routers came first and somebody had the idea to mount them upside down in a router table later.
So UP is toward the router, and DOWN is away from the router. That's how I remember which is which when it comes to upcut or downcut spiral bits.
I hope that helps.
Exactly. I remember it as upcut cuts towards the motor, and downcut cuts away from the motor
Thank you for the informative and practical video.
I know the manufacturers call these "spiral" bits. The correct name for this geometry is helix because the radius is the same along the rotation axis. In a spiral the radius increases or decreases.
DNA is in a helix, and an old style wood screw is a spiral.
Circular staircases are usually helical, like inside a cylinder. If they climb inside a cone, they will be spiral.
Well explained. Colin. You've taken the mystery out of up down bits and cutting direction. Very helpful.
Oh no! Looks like I need some more bits then! Great video Colin.
SUPER useful to be able to see objective side by side results! Recently got my first router and videos like this are really helpful in bit selection
Thanks for taking the time to show the bits and pieces of router bits.
Great explanations of the various types of bits. Information that I never knew. Thank you very much.
you said it perfectly for me. I learned something....a good day
Nice video with simple, but
illustrative explanation. Thanks Colin.
Perfectly explains why a couple of bits I have didn't perform quite how I expected. Thank you! Now I will be able to choose more carefully.
Interesting comparison, would have been nice to see a straight bit as well
Excellent Comparison, and very clearly explained. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Good stuff!
I know there have probably been countless spiral-vs-straight comparisons, but including a straight bit for comparison would have been useful.
Thanks for the knowledge about buying Spiral Router Bits !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Interesting video with very relevant information included. Many thanks.
The best answers are the ones to questions you never knew to ask. Thank you
Wow, Mr Philosopher! 🙄😀😃😂🤣
@@georgedavall9449 Lol. I wasn't trying to be smart 😂 It's just I look at a lot of woodworking videos including Router bits and I never realized there were different types. This video was very helpful
@@RealMangaAddict it’s all good MangaAddict! I sometimes like to ‘throw out’ a facetious remark here and there. You’re obvious a bigger person for your response, and I appreciate that, and respect you. Stay safe! Wear those masks, as Biden is watching! 😳🙄😃😁🤣👍✌🏻🇺🇸
@@georgedavall9449 Thank you for your kind words 🙂I hope you and your loved ones are safe as well. As for masks, I always do 😀
Great explanation of how 5he spiral direction effects the quality of the cut. Makes so much sense.
Interesting and informative. I'm new to using a router, so I'd never would've thought about this.
Very good explanation of the up/down spiral bits!
Great video: just what I wanted to know. I'm now going to try a compression bit.
Well done, an excellent video and period of instruction.
Great video. Thanks, Colin. You really do some great work. I appreciate how you share your knowledge.
Thanks Colin, nice to see an objective test.
Very, very nice and useful analysis. Thank you!
First congratulations for the channel. I really like your videos, unfortunately I don't understand your language and there's no translation into Portuguese. But you can always learn something. 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Wow amazing method of learning and u.r good teacher 😊👍👍👍plus amazing tools and machines
Lotsa good information, as usual. Thanks Colin for posting this!
Another great video from Colin. I had no idea up spiral, down spiral, compression and fine router bits even existed! I learned something from Colin again. I always wanted to get a router, as they look a great machine to have, but not sure if I'd use one that much (hobbyist)
Really enjoy this channel
Very interesting information, i have a spiral bit . It was given to me, haven't used it yet.
I so appreciate you taking time to explain everything! I'm new at this so your info is handy.👍
Pretty impressive results, Colin!!! 😃
Thanks a lot!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you! excellent video. I learned about compression bits and fine finish, something I didn't know about.
Very interesting & nice demonstration Colin! 👍👍😉😉
Pertinent and precise to the matter. Cheers.
Super informative and helpful, thank you Colin!
Oh this is perfect for my 3:30 wake up hahah. About to finish my second cnc router this weekend
Very interesting video. Thanks for sharing. I've learned a lot again (at least in theory)
Good morning, And what about the staight bit in comparison ? Thanks.
Hi I make the odd sign every now and then that fine down cut bit looks like it might work pretty nice for me do you have a link or let me no where to buy one your videos are great they help out a lot keep making these videos
Colin I’m trying to make wooden wheels with spokes I have used bandsaw and and jigsaw and not very good at cutting
I want to use my m18 compact router and I’m going to make a jig out of acrylics what’s the best bit should I use with my router
Thanks for the great explanation of up and down spiral bits. I'm just starting to explore the possibilities of routers even though I got my first one in 1981.
For most of your videos your lighting is very nice just the way it is. When you're trying to show textures like the tearout and fuzzies, a lamp set to one side to cross light the wood will make it stand out. (Many years as a pro photographer.)
Thanks for the explanation all new to me. Very informative
Great information!!
Many of the CNCs tend to make several passes, getting lower and lower until they have cut through. In the case of your compression bit, the first pass at the top of the workpiece would be an up-spiral, but that would change to a down-spiral as the passes got deeper and deeper. It would be interesting to see the results of the 4 bits with the CNC doing what you did free hand. Also, when you cut all the way through free hand, the chips could drop out the bottom which would not be the case for a workpiece on the CNC's waste board. It would be interesting to see how the bits fared on a CNC with regard to chip clearing.
Compression bits are exclusively designed to cut in one pass with the tip coming out to the other side of the board.
Excellent information. Thank you.
I recently used a spiral upcut bit while cutting exact fit dadoes in 3/4 inch plywood. While cutting one of the dadoes the router began laboring so I stopped cutting. Unfortunately the bit had loosened in the collet and started "drilling" deeper into the wood and penetrated through the bottom surface. Moral - tighten those bits!
Terry, I've had exactly the same when I used an upcut bit for the first time recently (in a box-joint jig I'd just made). The spiral is trying to drag the bit out of the collet and as you say, these bits need to be tightened more than "standard" bits.
@@helmshardover all router bits should be held securely. But if you top load bits (flip a router over) and just let them fall to the bottom of collets you're going to have a problem getting collets tight on bits. To understand why you have to imagine how the whole mechanism works. The nut driving the collet down into the shaft taper and the jaws of the collet grabbing the bit shank. When the bit can't move with the collet you're baked. Then you have to overcome the friction between the bit shank and the collet jaws to get the collet any tighter. Which you can do as you pop a blood vessel in the process. It is easier to just make sure the bit shank doesn't bottom out though. To that end I ball up a little bit of paper towel and stuff it into my router collets. Paper easily compresses yet holds bits up while they are waiting to be tightened. Problem solved.
@@1pcfred "all router bits should be held securely" - of course.
I've been using Routers & Router tables for over 20 years, and never had a bit come loose till this one.
It's a warning to anyone that what you perceive might be tight may be tested with an upcut bit, so give it more!
@@helmshardover in the past decades things have been changing. Now there's imported tools. Which has implications for Americans. Because foreigners don't really use our measuring system. They still like our money though. So I seen them selling 6 mm shank tools as 1/4" Now you can load a 6 mm bit into a 1/4" collet and it seems to hold. Up until you start running it anyways. Then it might slip some. Really if you want hold you want 1/2" shank bits. It's all about the surface area. 1/2" router bits are the luxury ride. They cost more because they're worth it.
Awesome educational vid. Greetings
Question for the expert (you): Would I be able to use my 1/8" shank Dremel bits, with a 1/4"-1/8" adapter, to use with my DeWALT DWP611 palm router?
Please advise, thanks.
Great Video!!! Thank You For The Info!!! 👍😎
Good video. Perhaps a look at how a straight bit would compare?
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Upcut spiral bit is EASILY the fastest making grooves and heats up the least, since it clears the chips up away from the groove. Always use it for the first cut. And, it is as good in through cuts as a downcut or up/down bit.
I would have liked to see a straight bit in the comparison test. It would give me an idea if spending the extra money on these bits is worth it.
One of the biggest advantages of spiral bits over straights, is that spirals prevent kickback issues due to the slicing rather than the chipping that straights do. For plunge cuts, either would work ok, but spirals REALLY shine with edge trimming/cutting.
Great video thanks! Would have loved to see the same cuts on MDF too
Thank you for this information!
Hi. Do you have a video that has all what we need to know about storing hard wood before using it, about grain structure, warping etc? If not, can you make such a guide video? I do not understand why woodworkers store wood a couple of months before they work it, they say it is to reach the humidity of the shop, but what about the humidity in the home of the end user? I am so confused.
Can you provide a link to the freud down spiral fine finish bit please. Thank you
Great video. Thanks
This is very helpful - thank you!
One of your best... thanks!
Just got myself an upcut and snapped it in the first second,,, on Acrylic sheet,, am I missing something. How strong are these compared to the straight edge equivalent?
Learned yet again.
Thx!
Really great!!!!!!!!!❤❤❤❤
Great video. Thanks Collin.
This is pretty helpful, thanks!
Thanks for the very informative video. Because straight bits will be the easiest to sharpen, would it not be better to take most material away first with a smaller diameter straight bit and then 'sneak cut' with a spiral bit?
Great video, does the article cover the cost to performance analysis? I'd like to see that. Do I just reverse some of these results if it's a router being used in table?
Will a router bit of some kind plow thru 2 inches of solid dry pine in one pass?
Great Info! Cheers....
Can you link where to buy the down spiral fine cut bit please.
Thanks for sharing that, well said!
Great video Thanks.
Curious as to why one would use an up spiral at all since each example it had the most tear out.
Can one use a down spiral bit on a mortise or dado? Will the chips clear?
With a dado you want the chips to be taken out of the cut - towards the collet, so use an upcut bit.
Good comparison thanks
Can those bits be used to cut a compass for making circles ? Also what’s the difference between a plunge router and a compact one other than size ? I feel like a router does more and is less intimidating than a jigsaw. I want to start learning to use these tools for making my own art substrates.
Thanks for the video.
I assume these are more costly than straight cut bits, Colin? How do they compare and why choose a spiral?
Hey Colin, like your videos, good job! However, if you look more closely at your sample cuts, note that the "fine" router bit did not cut in the same type of grain that you tested the others in. It's especially noticeable in the pine, which seems to suffer more tearout than the others. I wonder if the "fine" would perform differently if you cut your pattern in that particular tight grain the others were tested in?
Can you suggest a router table where I can mount my router? Preferably one that doesn’t break the bank?
Thanks Carl
Good stuff
Colin, you have inspired me to do some testing as well. My testing will be around the CNC engraving that I do a lot. Currently, I don't use many spiral bits; mine are all the two flute straight bits. What I've heard is that if I'm hogging a lot of material out each pass, that a downcut spiral will have a tendancy to clog the routed pockets, even though the top edges are clean as you showed in this video. Depending on the type of wood (e.g., cedar), that clogging of sawdust in the routed channels could be a problem, whereas an upcut spiral bit won't have the clogging but the top edges won't be as clean. When you've used downcut spiral bits on your CNC router, have you ever had any problems with sawdust clogging as I've described? Just curious...
Using a down spiral in a CNC, like my Shark HD520, definitely forces the debris into the cut. This is usually the biggest issue when first starting a cut because the chips have no where to go. To help with this, add a ramp to your tool path so the bit doesn't plunge straight into the material and then start cutting. Also, you may need to adjust your spindle/router speed and your feed rate to get good chip size and evacuation. If you are not using some dust collection, adding some will help clear chips off the work surface so it is not driven back into the pocket. Hope this helps but I think in 2 years you may have figured this out on your own.
Many thanks for another very informative clip. Now I have a question please. Which bit would you recommend for cutting box joints on my router table? Thanks again.
Watch the video. Box joint on router table is the equivalent of last set of cuts obviously. Downcut or fine-downcut.
@@SenselessUsername I think it needs to be an upcut bit for this, to pull the chips toward the collet.
I'll get a compression bit for melamine. I need a perfect nice and clean cut
As always a lot of practical information LOVE IT! but.....random question Colin, which came first the up or the down? seems like the compression bit would be suited to the CNC where you could really dial it in
They are. Used mostly for cutting double sided melamine. Lots of closest companys use them for cutting panels and shelving. Has to set up so it is just below the board. They can be sharpened three times. Solid carbide. I worked at a company that made and sharpened them.
Interesting - but they were all through cuts except the pine at the end. Bit performance in a through cut does show the bit's true advantages.. Only dadoes (or housings in other places) need to ignore the spiral bits' actions because all gets confused when not penetrating the wood.
Interesting clip, Collin.
CAB
I'd never heard of that "compression" bit before. Am I the only one who thinks that's an odd name? Did you use the same router and router speed for this demo? Thanks for a fine video!
I think it's a good name. Just hearing the name for the first time now, and I knew immediately that it would have opposing spirals "towards" each other and not away.
Seems like it's named well if you can guess it's geometry instantly from the name alone.
very nice
One of the most important thing with this kind of bit is getting a high end carbide bit. A typical Freud spiral bit off the shelf from Home Depot dulls quickly and you're gonna get bad cuts.
You are using it weong if that is the case. Freud makes great router bits .
Well yeah Freud makes all kinds of stuff, but the typical stuff off the shelf in Home Depot is 'Diablo' by Freud, and it's pretty low end for shop standards. You get what you pay for
Thank you!
You da Man! 👍😁✌🏻🇺🇸
JAN APIK KANG 👍👍👍
Thanks 🙏
What is a fishtail bit?
Thanks for the video, one question, from your comparisons it looks like we never want to use an up spiral bit, it's obviously not the case since they exist, so in what situations we do want to use them? are they easier to cut? they produce less heat? they are cheaper? why and when should we use them?
Up is good for a router table since it will pull the work piece 'up' towards the router motor. On a non through cut it also cuts faster since it pulls the chips out of a tenon/groove/dado. So you can use it in situations like this where the tear out, if any, will not be noticable.
I use Whiteside bits and I do not think the price differs for up vs down.
@@mm-nyc I see, thank you for the explanation.