Agreed contact number 4 and 7 on the plug - but in the video he confuses contact 7 and 8 right?! Contact 7 is not the green but the black?! Another way to describe it is the third wire and fifth wire right?! Again: Given a faulty tach, the first testing stage should be to take out cluster and connect a multi-meter set to V-AC to pins 4 and 7 right to check if gauge or wiring faulty right? No need to take gauge apart as in first stage of video right?
@@zmazn no. I’ve narrowed it down to the gauge itself though. Cleaned all the connectors really well and reassembled - no change. Pulled out the cluster again and removed the gauge itself. Thought I saw a few failed cold joints so I resoldered them - no change. Pulled out the gauge again and emptied a new electrical cleaner at the windings and everything I could reach - worked like a charm for about a week and then progressively quit again. It is a very annoying failure.
@@thebulgarianguy8461 youtube kept deleting my replies but sucks man, looks like another one has to be ordered from the cheap chinese websites since anywhere else is crazy expensive
What 'zibty trick'? Hehehe What are polets? The tachometer sensor is located very inconveniently on the inside of the fuel distributor between the pump and the engine block. Have to remove the injector pump to replace this.
Hi there man, ive been having an issue with my 2.5 turbo diesel Pajero. My revs work but my speedometer, Km count and even the one you reboot every time you fuel up stopped working. I asume it was after a mechanic fixed a leak on the diesel pump. They should be the same cables?? Thanks!!
Sorry, but I'm a bit confused. Sometimes your tachometer works and sometimes doesn't? The tach has a two-wire harness going to a sensor on the fuel pump VERY inconveniently positioned between the pump and the engine block. My tachometer is also intermittent. Next time I remove the pump, I will replace it.
Thanks VERY much! Unfortunately, the 4m40s do, but I don't think the 4d56 engines. Pain in the REAR. If yours is in the same place, check all wiring connections first. ;-) Good luck!
@@offgridislandfamily thank you so much I seen there's a connection on the back of my pump I must try it as I've got an aftermarket tachometer to install
If you are VERY LUCKY, you may feel between the engine and fuel pump distributor, and find a small wire harness and/or plug. The tachometer sensor is located in the worst possible place....at the forward inside of the fuel distributor pump. Look for the harness in my video and let me know if you find similar. HAPPY HUNTING! ;-)
I have a mitsubishi pajero and my problem with the revs is that the engine slowdown does not mark me, it only marks when I accelerate it but if I stop accelerating the score is zero. what will be the solution?
@@offgridislandfamily Hello, my problem is that the revolutions only mark when I accelerate, when the engine is on without accelerating, the revolutions are at zero, that is, the tachometer does not mark the engine idle
@@desaillyriveraortiz9845 I responded, but looks like RUclips deleted it? SO...the reason is that the sensor is weak or slightly out of position. When you accelerate, the turning at higher speeds expands the rotating surface just enough for the sensor to read. At idle, it is 'too far' from the sensor. Mine does exactly the same. Next time I remove the fuel pump, I will replace this sensor and this is the only solution. ;-)
@@jasio157 First, if you have A/C, make sure you know whether or not the 'idle up' solenoid is working. You want to set idle without 'idle up' active. Then you have the idle set screw at the front of the fuel distributor. (I think it's visible in my 'Part 2' pump calibration video). Finally, there is the main fuel load screw at the back of the pump. Don't do anything with this until you watch the following video closely. I show the procedure clearly at 9:07 of the following video: ruclips.net/video/n3i2_akwAiI/видео.html
@@offgridislandfamily So i checked everything and it looks like A/C idle up is not working because there is no refrigerant in the system, idle set screw is not even touching the fuel distributor arm. Apparently i will have to adjust by main fuel load screw as you said. Thanks for advice. Pajero rulezzz. BTW is there any way to connect it to OBD 2 scanner?
@@jasio157 The idle-up solenoid works only based on A/C compressor engagement, which happens regardless of refrigerant. The best way to really test if it is working is to--with engine running--set A/C to MAX fan and MAX cool. Switch between MAX ON and OFF. Does the idle go UP, DOWN...or stay the same?
Hello dear friend How has your tachometer repair been? I have the same problem ... could you help me please? Thanks! Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina
Does yours also work sometimes and not others...intermittently? If so, and you fixed the wires on the gauge, then it's probably a bad wiring connection somewhere in the harness or plugs. Finally, it would be the sensor on the injection pump that needs replacing, as is the problem on my Pajero. Just waiting for next time I have to pull the pump to replace this sensor.
Hello dear friend! I re-soldered all the points of the components on the board and now it works normally! I have to thank you very much for the help you give with your tutorials, which are very practical and simple! Also thank the Google translator ... ;-) ;-) ;-) Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina Edward.
@@Edukolak I'm always extremely happy when I hear a video has helped someone. THAT is exactly why I started this...to save others lots of time and make repairs easier.
good job bro! thats also my problem in my gen2 haha. when its not working, i keep on knocking on the clustergauge then tadaaaa! magic hahaha. maybe my problem is in the gauge. also i noticed, why are you using HOLD mode?
So...if you it comes back to life for a bit by tapping the cluster, then it's either the wire harness connector plug going into the cluster (probably 10% chance) or one or more of the four 'hair wires' I showed coming off the tach's electric motor. Solder one or more of these back into position and you should be fine. I use hold because, as I'm pushing 25-30% more power, the normal setting would shift down too low when I wanted to accelerate. The transmission is 'unaware' of the extra power and FAR LESS need to shift down for overtaking/passing other vehicles. ;-)
Agreed contact number 4 and 7 on the plug - but in the video he confuses contact 7 and 8 right?! Contact 7 is not the green but the black?! Another way to describe it is the third wire and fifth wire right?! Again: Given a faulty tach, the first testing stage should be to take out cluster and connect a multi-meter set to V-AC to pins 4 and 7 right to check if gauge or wiring faulty right? No need to take gauge apart as in first stage of video right?
Hi, contacts number 4 and 7 goes right to the sensor ?
My problem resolved by resolder tacho smd component.but very helpful video it is because By him I checked sensor and was ok 1k5 resistance.
GREAT TO KNOW! Always glad to hear when a video assists someone. Yep...that's the typical problem / solution.
Thank you for the video. Is that on a diesel? I have a 95 3.0 and can’t seem to find the connectors you’re showing.
Correct...diesel, so the connectors are totally different. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Ever found it? I have a 92 which is a 3.0 as well but I dont have a manual at all
@@zmazn no. I’ve narrowed it down to the gauge itself though. Cleaned all the connectors really well and reassembled - no change. Pulled out the cluster again and removed the gauge itself. Thought I saw a few failed cold joints so I resoldered them - no change. Pulled out the gauge again and emptied a new electrical cleaner at the windings and everything I could reach - worked like a charm for about a week and then progressively quit again. It is a very annoying failure.
@@thebulgarianguy8461 sucks man, maybe its time to get one from somewhere like aliexpress since anywhere else is crazy expensive
@@thebulgarianguy8461 youtube kept deleting my replies but sucks man, looks like another one has to be ordered from the cheap chinese websites since anywhere else is crazy expensive
I like the zibty trick
What is the sensor that attaches with two polets over the diesel pump,and what does it do?
What 'zibty trick'? Hehehe What are polets? The tachometer sensor is located very inconveniently on the inside of the fuel distributor between the pump and the engine block. Have to remove the injector pump to replace this.
Hi there man, ive been having an issue with my 2.5 turbo diesel Pajero. My revs work but my speedometer, Km count and even the one you reboot every time you fuel up stopped working. I asume it was after a mechanic fixed a leak on the diesel pump. They should be the same cables?? Thanks!!
Sorry, but I'm a bit confused. Sometimes your tachometer works and sometimes doesn't? The tach has a two-wire harness going to a sensor on the fuel pump VERY inconveniently positioned between the pump and the engine block. My tachometer is also intermittent. Next time I remove the pump, I will replace it.
Good job! 😋🥰
You are great brother, nice work there
Hey man love the videos ,
Do all mitsubishi manual pumps have the tachometer sensor in the same place ?
I only ask as I've got a 4d68t engine
Thanks VERY much! Unfortunately, the 4m40s do, but I don't think the 4d56 engines. Pain in the REAR. If yours is in the same place, check all wiring connections first. ;-) Good luck!
@@offgridislandfamily thank you so much I seen there's a connection on the back of my pump I must try it as I've got an aftermarket tachometer to install
@@paddydrifter360 Good...very lucky! I've read it's usually very difficult to install aftermarket tachs on diesel engines.
@@offgridislandfamily this one is ment to be diesel specific so I'm hoping if I tap into the tach sensor on the pump I should be ok
Sir good afternoon thank you so much for that anyway where I can' buy the 4m40 rpm sensor? Thank you so much 🙏
My pleasure! You can find them on any online store. Lazada, Shopee, Alibaba or eBay.
Sir thank you so much for that...❤
Hey i need a help. I have a canter fuso with 4m40. Comes without tanchometer. I bought a new meter which comes with tancho. How do it connect them?
If you are VERY LUCKY, you may feel between the engine and fuel pump distributor, and find a small wire harness and/or plug. The tachometer sensor is located in the worst possible place....at the forward inside of the fuel distributor pump. Look for the harness in my video and let me know if you find similar. HAPPY HUNTING! ;-)
Disculpas cuales son los puntos que hay que volver a soldar en el tacometro?
Encontraste alguna solución?
Yes
Not sure
I have a mitsubishi pajero and my problem with the revs is that the engine slowdown does not mark me, it only marks when I accelerate it but if I stop accelerating the score is zero. what will be the solution?
@@offgridislandfamily Hello, my problem is that the revolutions only mark when I accelerate, when the engine is on without accelerating, the revolutions are at zero, that is, the tachometer does not mark the engine idle
@@desaillyriveraortiz9845 I responded, but looks like RUclips deleted it? SO...the reason is that the sensor is weak or slightly out of position. When you accelerate, the turning at higher speeds expands the rotating surface just enough for the sensor to read. At idle, it is 'too far' from the sensor. Mine does exactly the same. Next time I remove the fuel pump, I will replace this sensor and this is the only solution. ;-)
Hi how many RPMs should have pajero 2.8 diesel when idling?
Normally between 800-900 rpm. Automatics are usually set a bit higher than manual.
@@offgridislandfamily ok so my tacho is showing 1000 is there any way to tune it to correct value?
@@jasio157 First, if you have A/C, make sure you know whether or not the 'idle up' solenoid is working. You want to set idle without 'idle up' active. Then you have the idle set screw at the front of the fuel distributor. (I think it's visible in my 'Part 2' pump calibration video). Finally, there is the main fuel load screw at the back of the pump. Don't do anything with this until you watch the following video closely. I show the procedure clearly at 9:07 of the following video: ruclips.net/video/n3i2_akwAiI/видео.html
@@offgridislandfamily So i checked everything and it looks like A/C idle up is not working because there is no refrigerant in the system, idle set screw is not even touching the fuel distributor arm. Apparently i will have to adjust by main fuel load screw as you said. Thanks for advice. Pajero rulezzz. BTW is there any way to connect it to OBD 2 scanner?
@@jasio157 The idle-up solenoid works only based on A/C compressor engagement, which happens regardless of refrigerant. The best way to really test if it is working is to--with engine running--set A/C to MAX fan and MAX cool. Switch between MAX ON and OFF. Does the idle go UP, DOWN...or stay the same?
Hello dear friend
How has your tachometer repair been?
I have the same problem ... could you help me please?
Thanks!
Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina
Does yours also work sometimes and not others...intermittently? If so, and you fixed the wires on the gauge, then it's probably a bad wiring connection somewhere in the harness or plugs. Finally, it would be the sensor on the injection pump that needs replacing, as is the problem on my Pajero. Just waiting for next time I have to pull the pump to replace this sensor.
Hello dear friend! I re-soldered all the points of the components on the board and now it works normally!
I have to thank you very much for the help you give with your tutorials, which are very practical and simple!
Also thank the Google translator ... ;-) ;-) ;-)
Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina
Edward.
@@Edukolak I'm always extremely happy when I hear a video has helped someone. THAT is exactly why I started this...to save others lots of time and make repairs easier.
@@offgridislandfamily ♥
❤️❤️❤️
mine also need this troubleshoot sinve the female connector is gone and been cut off. 😢
Yeah. The electrical is the absolute WORST part of my Pajero.
good job bro! thats also my problem in my gen2 haha. when its not working, i keep on knocking on the clustergauge then tadaaaa! magic hahaha. maybe my problem is in the gauge.
also i noticed, why are you using HOLD mode?
So...if you it comes back to life for a bit by tapping the cluster, then it's either the wire harness connector plug going into the cluster (probably 10% chance) or one or more of the four 'hair wires' I showed coming off the tach's electric motor. Solder one or more of these back into position and you should be fine.
I use hold because, as I'm pushing 25-30% more power, the normal setting would shift down too low when I wanted to accelerate. The transmission is 'unaware' of the extra power and FAR LESS need to shift down for overtaking/passing other vehicles. ;-)
@@offgridislandfamily adjust your kickdown cable
@@luluflengchannel8114 AAAAHHHHHHHHH. YES! Good point. ;-)
@@offgridislandfamily just did mine a week ago. changed my tps and adjusted my kickdown cable then boom watata. pulls good
@@luluflengchannel8114 Thanks for that! I'll definitely do it, as I don't want to be dependent on the HOLD setting. ;-)