53:10 it warms my heart to hear how much you appreciate this vintage Paris. It is the most beautiful powdery rose ever created (and so much more). The vintage EDT is also great, but it is slightly sharper and it does not fill the room like the fleur de parfum. The dry down of the fdp is breathtakingly beautiful on the skin. A true 80s masterpiece!
YSL vintage "Paris" was always great fun back then. Your reaction to it made me smile! It's such marvelous nostalgia remembering that perfume. After using Cinnabar (Lauder) during December I started out with the crisp, vibrant - Y - (vintage) YSL in January and then entered the pink rose miracle of "Paris" in March. (Sorry for bothering you with these memories of the past, but who else would understand 😊) Anyway, if you haven't yet reviewed Houbigant "Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret", would you concider it? Thank you for your always great YT posts.
Jour d'Hermes Absolu is a permanent favorite, although in Southern California I bring it out in February, when my citrus trees are ready for harvest. Jour d'Hermes Parfum is a gorgeous delight year round.
I am so happy that I have found your channel! I have worn YSL Paris since I was 17 years old (when it was launched) I have spent the last 10 years wondering if my olfactory senses have deceived me because it does not have the same staying power, nor the initial RUSH and sparkle that I remember. I have lost count of the number of bottles I have used. I knew that some ingredients are no longer used but thought that rose leaves would probably be exempt? Not so?
Happy Persian New Year, Dariush! 🎍🌄. Just pulled Do Son out for spring and it is on your list, such an elegant tuberose. Funny, I had just ordered a bottle of Paris, but I think the vintage has a pinkish cap. I used to adore this scent but it's been heavily reformulated as I got a lot more violet and a lot less rose in this one (my cap is gold BTW).
I'm enjoying spicy florals for spring. Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji with it's ginger note has been nice. I may get a full bottle of the brand's Rose Ardoise, which is a spicy, woody rose with nutmeg. It's the first "red rose" I want to wear all the time.
I just bought Tuberose Astrale, and I'm waiting for it to come. It's very very Crivelli, but I knew going into it. I hate Ambre Chromatique because it brings me to my mother's funeral (the incense!), I am okay with Hibiscus, but Iris Malikhan is my ride-or-die. I don't think Tuberose Astrale will do the Guidance dance, which means a slow burn with all the usual suspects singing its praises as the second coming. I think it works for those who are open to Tuberose and are open to a twist. I own both Do Son (EDP and EDT) and Carnal Flower, and I never expected this to be the same in any way. I'm really glad I got the 2ml sample before I bought it last week. I had to test it. But I probably should have gotten Oud Maracuja first. Finally, am waiting for the new Puente to arrive to me. Looking forward to it.
Lys Mediteranee was recommended to me by a Sak’s SA when I requested a fragrance in the vein of Kenzo Pour Homme- purchased it on the spot 🙃. Would say probably closer to Kenzo Homme Fresh, if we had to unnecessarily force a pigeonhole. I wore Lys Mediteranee as my wedding fragrance, and my wife wore Beautiful Love! 🙂 As an aside, for what it’s worth, my wife felt Jour d’Hermes Absolu would be redundant already owning Paris-Riviera 🤷♂️🤔🙂
Watched the entire recording & I enjoyed it! Tubereuse Astrale is really good but I’m more a fan of Carnal Flower (my favourite perfume) tubereuse Criminelle (which I own and wear sparingly) and Fracas - the more vampy tuberoses - this one is different & I’m not quite sure I love it (yet) I wanted to mention another favourite Malle for spring, En Passant - I love this perfume in spring.
Love Bel Respiro & will wear it today for our afternoon concert. I don’t even care if the oboe player next to me objects or not. It boosts one’s confidence. ♥️
I would say that it isn't. The Tauer (from memory) is much lighter, simpler, more translucent and also much 'purer', in terms of being a cologne. It doesn't have all the spice notes that are in the Guerlain.
Tubéreuse Austral will stay for days on clothes and then transfers to skin again and again somehow !! 😮 I love a strong fragrance, but this one won't go away. not sure how I feel, it nags me 😮
Thank you for the spring list💚💚💛💛 Do you know Houbigant Essence Rare? No one talks about it. It's another modern abstract by JC Ellena but it feels more plush than Jour so a tiny bit retro, maybe as if he had allowed himself to be more baroque.
I just couldn't with Tubereuse Astrale. On me it was just sickly sweet pink juice. Personally I feel the output quality of Maison Crivelli has really gone downhill with each successive release. Iris Malikhan was peak MC for me.
Paris was MY SCENT - 1987 SPEAKS TO ME. I still own newer bottles. When I wore it, the scent spoke Spring in my 20s. All the NYC working girls loved it for its femininity and its power. I may have an original bottle, which I'm sure to have gone bad, but I have newer ones. You have to understand that for those of us of a certain age, niche did not exist. We just found a designer we liked or that we heard about. Rive Gauche in college and then Paris as a young lawyer.
@@Persolaise I love your channel. You are direct and sincere. And I will start reading your Substack. Further you have a true appreciation for fragrances that were brought to market more than 2 years ago. In getting back into this hobby I am filtering hawks versus those who objectively appreciate. By the way I tested the New Look this past Friday. No. It’s much darker than I thought it would be. There is no way I’d buy it. Sadly I wanted to get a 10ml of the 27 87 Per Se but you can’t get it in the States and they won’t ship. You tested it and Josephine of Jus de Rose liked it. I have a feeling it’s like a Nasomatto fragrance in its weirdness and sometimes I like weird
Is it true that Bel Respiro is very much similar to the vintage Aliage (Estée Lauder) ??? If it is, I have no choice and must buy it, no matter expenses...
As much as I admire your work, even as a regular albeit silent viewer I must admit that the way you just skipped over the cost of those fragrances and presented a list in which the scent from L'Artisan's Potager range (which you yourself found so shockingly expensive in your Best of 2022 video) is basically one of the cheapies, did stick in my craw. I could even go so far as to say that the price points of those fragrances getting higher and higher makes me less and less motivated to follow the videos in the first place - I mean, what's the point in watching if I know that due to the cost of even getting a decant, I will hardly be able to experience any of the scents myself and connect your brilliant analysis to any actual olfactive impressions of my own? I would therefore love to see you develop some way to take price into account as well, at least from time to time. Variations of the challenge could include doing certain lists (the seasonal ones being obvious examples) with scents that cost less than a certain amount altogether (£1000, maybe, even though that might be both extremely difficult not to overrun and way too much, given the current cost of living crisis) or that have an average price per ml of less than x. Or, for your lists in general, you could commit to only include scents that you would have been prepared to buy with your own money at current RRP ... I'm sure you'll find the interpretation that works for you - just try to stay relevant for us poor folks with a "normal" income.
Thanks very much indeed for taking the time to write this. The issue of price is becoming more and more problematic, and I confess I haven't yet found an effective way of dealing with it or addressing it. I think the main conclusion I've drawn so far is that there is no single, wholly-effective way of dealing with it. One thing I will say, though, is that when I present my seasonal Top 10s, I'm not suggesting for one second that people should buy all the scents on the list. Most of the people I know have fewer than ten perfumes in their whole collection, let alone in a 'seasonal selection'. The Top 10s are just meant to inspire viewers to seek out one or two things that grab their attention.
@@Persolaise Thanks for your kind response. I can assure you that I never understood your lists as an invitation to buy all ten - or even just one - of the fragrances presented and that I always took them in just the spirit you describe, i. e. as inspiration as to what might be worth checking out. I'm also conscious of the fact that cost is highly subjective, so that what might be well beyond MY price range would hardly even register in the sum total of SOMEONE ELSE's monthly expenses while what I might still be able to afford will be way out of reach for many others. I'm even acutely aware that the whole discussion is quite a luxury problem anyway - after all, not only do both of us live in a country that isn't being subjected to daily missile attacks or civil war and that doesn't constantly crack down on peoples' most basic human rights, the reason I can even think about the price of perfume is that I'm privileged enough to be able to pay for both food and rent and heating, which for many people sadly isn't a given. Still, I feel that the possibility to even seek out the things that might pique my interest does somewhat depend on the price point. For example, as someone who does not have continued access to a perfumery that stocks all those brands, I would be unable to just test them directly in the shop. And since what makes your channel so special is your emphasis on scents that not only "smell nice" or "make you smell unique and stand out" or - God forbid - make the members of whatever sex you might be attracted to "drop their panties" but have something to say artistically and therefore deserve repeated examination, just trying the scents once, perhaps even as part of a larger testing spree, wouldn't really do them justice anyway. Moreover, even if one had the opportunity of regularly dropping into the shop, if the prices are so high that you never actually spent any money with them I'm sure the personnel's willingness to let you try things or even hand out the odd sample vial would dissipate quite rapidly. So, even in those conditions, one would be back to actually BUYING samples or little decants, in which case price makes both a financial and a psychological difference: financial, since even with samples or decants, getting to know the few scents on the list one is most interested becomes harder the more one has to pay, psychological, since, if one knows that in case one really discovered something that grabbed one's heart one wouldn't be able to justify buying a full bottle anyway, why go to the effort of seeking out a sample in the first place? So, I suppose, what I'm actually saying and what's actually bothering me is this: Given that the tenor of your various videos and the reactions of your viewers convince me that we are all starting from the premise that scent is or should not be a status symbol like an expensive watch or a sports car but rather that, when it is at its best, perfume constitutes a form of artistic expression like a painting, a book or a piece of music that manages to touch you deep inside - doesn't that mean that the current prices are getting us ever further into a situation where artistic beauty is only for rich people and might not a list like the one you presented even imply that we as a community are OK with that? P.S. Of course I realize that I have some serious soul-searching to do with regards to the fact that my reaction was only triggered when I MYSELF started to feel priced out ...
@@colognissimo8442 Thank you -- there is A LOT to consider and reflect on here. There was a time, not terribly long ago, when perfume out of reach for most people, financially speaking. I hope we're not returning to those days.
Iris Doux is probably the most beautifully done Iris I have ever smelled
It’s very well done.
53:10 it warms my heart to hear how much you appreciate this vintage Paris. It is the most beautiful powdery rose ever created (and so much more). The vintage EDT is also great, but it is slightly sharper and it does not fill the room like the fleur de parfum. The dry down of the fdp is breathtakingly beautiful on the skin. A true 80s masterpiece!
It is beyond gorgeous!
Can’t believe not many people talking about Jour d’Hermes Absolu too. Top 3 Hermes for me, I really love it.
Severely underrated.
Thanks for watching.
Watched the recording. Your seasonal bests are my favorite episodes. I bought Iris Doux to wear this spring. ❤
I'm so glad you enjoyed it -- thank you.
Ubar was my first Amouage purchase, and compelled me to dive into the rest of the Amouage world. It’s amazing.
Oh my word! Starting with Ubar must have been quite something.
YSL vintage "Paris" was always great fun back then. Your reaction to it made me smile! It's such marvelous nostalgia remembering that perfume. After using Cinnabar (Lauder) during December I started out with the crisp, vibrant - Y - (vintage) YSL in January and then entered the pink rose miracle of "Paris" in March. (Sorry for bothering you with these memories of the past, but who else would understand 😊) Anyway, if you haven't yet reviewed Houbigant "Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret", would you concider it? Thank you for your always great YT posts.
I would understand!
@@kuklakid, thank you so much, I'm delighted to read this!
I think lots of us would understand ;-)
Thanks very much indeed for watching.
You are so knowledgeable and these are so unique!
That's very kind, thank you.
Jour d'Hermes Absolu is a permanent favorite, although in Southern California I bring it out in February, when my citrus trees are ready for harvest. Jour d'Hermes Parfum is a gorgeous delight year round.
Wonderful. I’m so pleased to know there are fans of it out there.
Wonderful top 10. Can't wait for your review of the new Crystalle!
I'll have to seek it out.
I am so happy that I have found your channel! I have worn YSL Paris since I was 17 years old (when it was launched) I have spent the last 10 years wondering if my olfactory senses have deceived me because it does not have the same staying power, nor the initial RUSH and sparkle that I remember. I have lost count of the number of bottles I have used. I knew that some ingredients are no longer used but thought that rose leaves would probably be exempt? Not so?
Thanks very much indeed for watching. The use of many rose-related materials has been restricted and/or banned over the years.
Excellent list, thank you! I really like Highgrove Bouquet from Penhaligon's for springtime
Thanks very much for watching.
I have a sample of Ubar and was so disappointed to find out that it wasn’t available any longer. It is such a gorgeous scent!
Yes, it's a real shame that it's gone.
Happy Persian New Year, Dariush! 🎍🌄. Just pulled Do Son out for spring and it is on your list, such an elegant tuberose. Funny, I had just ordered a bottle of Paris, but I think the vintage has a pinkish cap. I used to adore this scent but it's been heavily reformulated as I got a lot more violet and a lot less rose in this one (my cap is gold BTW).
I believe vintage edt has a pink cap, edp has a gold cap and extrait has a completely different stopper.
I am currently smitten by Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil and Sur Le Toit. Smelling them makes me look forward to spring even more.
I adore Sur Le Nil.
Thanks for watching.
I'm enjoying spicy florals for spring. Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji with it's ginger note has been nice. I may get a full bottle of the brand's Rose Ardoise, which is a spicy, woody rose with nutmeg. It's the first "red rose" I want to wear all the time.
Wonderful -- thanks for watching.
I just bought Tuberose Astrale, and I'm waiting for it to come. It's very very Crivelli, but I knew going into it. I hate Ambre Chromatique because it brings me to my mother's funeral (the incense!), I am okay with Hibiscus, but Iris Malikhan is my ride-or-die. I don't think Tuberose Astrale will do the Guidance dance, which means a slow burn with all the usual suspects singing its praises as the second coming. I think it works for those who are open to Tuberose and are open to a twist. I own both Do Son (EDP and EDT) and Carnal Flower, and I never expected this to be the same in any way. I'm really glad I got the 2ml sample before I bought it last week. I had to test it. But I probably should have gotten Oud Maracuja first. Finally, am waiting for the new Puente to arrive to me. Looking forward to it.
I hope you enjoy all your purchases.
Thanks for watching.
ah Lys Mediterranee is making an appearance, it is my favourite scent! Just glorious
Truly beautiful!
Lys Mediteranee was recommended to me by a Sak’s SA when I requested a fragrance in the vein of Kenzo Pour Homme- purchased it on the spot 🙃. Would say probably closer to Kenzo Homme Fresh, if we had to unnecessarily force a pigeonhole.
I wore Lys Mediteranee as my wedding fragrance, and my wife wore Beautiful Love! 🙂
As an aside, for what it’s worth, my wife felt Jour d’Hermes Absolu would be redundant already owning Paris-Riviera 🤷♂️🤔🙂
Oh wow -- what a gorgeous smelling couple you must have been at your wedding.
Watched the entire recording & I enjoyed it! Tubereuse Astrale is really good but I’m more a fan of Carnal Flower (my favourite perfume) tubereuse Criminelle (which I own and wear sparingly) and Fracas - the more vampy tuberoses - this one is different & I’m not quite sure I love it (yet) I wanted to mention another favourite Malle for spring, En Passant - I love this perfume in spring.
I adore En Passant too.
Many thanks for watching.
Ubar 😭 why did I discover it just this year! It could be fomo but I loved my sample even before finding out it was discontinued
So many of the good ones get away.
Oh boy, tuberose and osmathis sounds amazing!! I wonder if it would smell similar to Machi. Which is one of my favorite "cheepies".
I'm not sure I know Machi.
Thanks for watching.
To me, Bel Respiro is daffodils and freshly cut grass caught in the wind. It’s probably the most beautiful fragrance I’ve ever smelled.
I think it’s stunning.
Thanks for watching.
So i did say that i got a near 75ml bottle of Bel Respiro for 90 bucks...to my surprise...its the EDT version, just arrived today
Oh wow! Enjoy every drop 😊
Love Bel Respiro & will wear it today for our afternoon concert. I don’t even care if the oboe player next to me objects or not. It boosts one’s confidence. ♥️
Oh gosh, have a great concert!
"The hams vary as well." I laughed hard at that one.
Well, they do! ;-)
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for another video. Is Neroli Plein Sud at all comparable to Tauer’s Cologne du Maghreb?
I would say that it isn't. The Tauer (from memory) is much lighter, simpler, more translucent and also much 'purer', in terms of being a cologne. It doesn't have all the spice notes that are in the Guerlain.
For me, spring means pulling out Chamade, Givenchy III and Patou’s Vacances
Wonderful choices! Thanks for watching.
From another half Iranian, happy upcoming Noruz.
Best wishes to you too.
The perfume "Amouge Ubar" is created by perfumers Francis Bocris & Betty Busse for company " Creations Aromatiques' unfortunately is discontinued.😔
Thanks very much for watching.
Tubéreuse Austral will stay for days on clothes and then transfers to skin again and again somehow !! 😮 I love a strong fragrance, but this one won't go away. not sure how I feel, it nags me 😮
Oh my goodness -- nuclear tenacity!
Thank you for the spring list💚💚💛💛 Do you know Houbigant Essence Rare? No one talks about it. It's another modern abstract by JC Ellena but it feels more plush than Jour so a tiny bit retro, maybe as if he had allowed himself to be more baroque.
No, I don't know that one, as it happens. Thanks for the tip.
I just couldn't with Tubereuse Astrale. On me it was just sickly sweet pink juice. Personally I feel the output quality of Maison Crivelli has really gone downhill with each successive release. Iris Malikhan was peak MC for me.
Well, never mind. At least you tried it.
Thanks for watching.
Paris was MY SCENT - 1987 SPEAKS TO ME. I still own newer bottles. When I wore it, the scent spoke Spring in my 20s. All the NYC working girls loved it for its femininity and its power. I may have an original bottle, which I'm sure to have gone bad, but I have newer ones. You have to understand that for those of us of a certain age, niche did not exist. We just found a designer we liked or that we heard about. Rive Gauche in college and then Paris as a young lawyer.
Well, niche in perfumery is a relatively new concept anyway.
Thanks very much indeed for watching.
@@Persolaise I love your channel. You are direct and sincere. And I will start reading your Substack. Further you have a true appreciation for fragrances that were brought to market more than 2 years ago. In getting back into this hobby I am filtering hawks versus those who objectively appreciate. By the way I tested the New Look this past Friday. No. It’s much darker than I thought it would be. There is no way I’d buy it. Sadly I wanted to get a 10ml of the 27 87 Per Se but you can’t get it in the States and they won’t ship. You tested it and Josephine of Jus de Rose liked it. I have a feeling it’s like a Nasomatto fragrance in its weirdness and sometimes I like weird
@@kuklakid Thank you very, very much for your kind words.
Is it true that Bel Respiro is very much similar to the vintage Aliage (Estée Lauder) ???
If it is, I have no choice and must buy it, no matter expenses...
Ooh, interesting question. No, I can't say that they've reminded me of each other. I think the citrus note in the Lauder is more pronounced.
@@Persolaise , thank you so much for clearing up. Very appreciated.
As much as I admire your work, even as a regular albeit silent viewer I must admit that the way you just skipped over the cost of those fragrances and presented a list in which the scent from L'Artisan's Potager range (which you yourself found so shockingly expensive in your Best of 2022 video) is basically one of the cheapies, did stick in my craw. I could even go so far as to say that the price points of those fragrances getting higher and higher makes me less and less motivated to follow the videos in the first place - I mean, what's the point in watching if I know that due to the cost of even getting a decant, I will hardly be able to experience any of the scents myself and connect your brilliant analysis to any actual olfactive impressions of my own?
I would therefore love to see you develop some way to take price into account as well, at least from time to time. Variations of the challenge could include doing certain lists (the seasonal ones being obvious examples) with scents that cost less than a certain amount altogether (£1000, maybe, even though that might be both extremely difficult not to overrun and way too much, given the current cost of living crisis) or that have an average price per ml of less than x. Or, for your lists in general, you could commit to only include scents that you would have been prepared to buy with your own money at current RRP ... I'm sure you'll find the interpretation that works for you - just try to stay relevant for us poor folks with a "normal" income.
Thanks very much indeed for taking the time to write this.
The issue of price is becoming more and more problematic, and I confess I haven't yet found an effective way of dealing with it or addressing it. I think the main conclusion I've drawn so far is that there is no single, wholly-effective way of dealing with it.
One thing I will say, though, is that when I present my seasonal Top 10s, I'm not suggesting for one second that people should buy all the scents on the list. Most of the people I know have fewer than ten perfumes in their whole collection, let alone in a 'seasonal selection'. The Top 10s are just meant to inspire viewers to seek out one or two things that grab their attention.
@@Persolaise
Thanks for your kind response.
I can assure you that I never understood your lists as an invitation to buy all ten - or even just one - of the fragrances presented and that I always took them in just the spirit you describe, i. e. as inspiration as to what might be worth checking out. I'm also conscious of the fact that cost is highly subjective, so that what might be well beyond MY price range would hardly even register in the sum total of SOMEONE ELSE's monthly expenses while what I might still be able to afford will be way out of reach for many others. I'm even acutely aware that the whole discussion is quite a luxury problem anyway - after all, not only do both of us live in a country that isn't being subjected to daily missile attacks or civil war and that doesn't constantly crack down on peoples' most basic human rights, the reason I can even think about the price of perfume is that I'm privileged enough to be able to pay for both food and rent and heating, which for many people sadly isn't a given.
Still, I feel that the possibility to even seek out the things that might pique my interest does somewhat depend on the price point. For example, as someone who does not have continued access to a perfumery that stocks all those brands, I would be unable to just test them directly in the shop. And since what makes your channel so special is your emphasis on scents that not only "smell nice" or "make you smell unique and stand out" or - God forbid - make the members of whatever sex you might be attracted to "drop their panties" but have something to say artistically and therefore deserve repeated examination, just trying the scents once, perhaps even as part of a larger testing spree, wouldn't really do them justice anyway. Moreover, even if one had the opportunity of regularly dropping into the shop, if the prices are so high that you never actually spent any money with them I'm sure the personnel's willingness to let you try things or even hand out the odd sample vial would dissipate quite rapidly. So, even in those conditions, one would be back to actually BUYING samples or little decants, in which case price makes both a financial and a psychological difference: financial, since even with samples or decants, getting to know the few scents on the list one is most interested becomes harder the more one has to pay, psychological, since, if one knows that in case one really discovered something that grabbed one's heart one wouldn't be able to justify buying a full bottle anyway, why go to the effort of seeking out a sample in the first place?
So, I suppose, what I'm actually saying and what's actually bothering me is this: Given that the tenor of your various videos and the reactions of your viewers convince me that we are all starting from the premise that scent is or should not be a status symbol like an expensive watch or a sports car but rather that, when it is at its best, perfume constitutes a form of artistic expression like a painting, a book or a piece of music that manages to touch you deep inside - doesn't that mean that the current prices are getting us ever further into a situation where artistic beauty is only for rich people and might not a list like the one you presented even imply that we as a community are OK with that?
P.S.
Of course I realize that I have some serious soul-searching to do with regards to the fact that my reaction was only triggered when I MYSELF started to feel priced out ...
@@colognissimo8442 Thank you -- there is A LOT to consider and reflect on here. There was a time, not terribly long ago, when perfume out of reach for most people, financially speaking. I hope we're not returning to those days.
Cannot believe I’ve missed this live 😢
That's a shame.
🌸🌸🌸
Many thanks for watching.
Damn missed it!
Oh no, that's a shame.