Super Duty 6.7 | Hidden Failure Causes the Suck Steering & Death Wobble! F250 F350
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Check out MORE Ford 6.7 Superduty Content by @PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod This SHORTED out line | WILL sideline YOUR Ford 6.7 • this SHORTED out line ...
This is Part 1 F250 Super Duty 6.7 | Hidden Failure Causes the Death Wobble! • Super Duty 6.7 | Hidde...
Part 2 The 5th Ball Joint!! Ford F 250 6.7 Diesel • The 5th Ball Joint!! S...
Part 3 Mechanic States: I Quit !! Suspension Rebuild Ford F250 F350 6.7 • Mechanic States: I Qui...
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
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Check out MORE Ford 6.7 Superduty Content by @PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod This SHORTED out line | WILL sideline YOUR Ford 6.7 ruclips.net/video/3PcOHF1IWGo/видео.htmlsi=g0z8_eVzCE2pKwWv
Check out that steering dampener. Most always faulty unless updated from dealer. 20N04 extended coverage.
Andall they needed to do to prevent all this spending money on parts and labor was squirt a bit of grease in ‘em every once in a while. Price of being LAZY…..EXPENSIVE!!!! (I didn’t hear you say anything about THAT!! You should’ve said that right when you discovered the bind. That all they needed to do was give the dang thing a shot oe two of grease once in a while and they could’ve prevented this whole mess, but it’s to your benefit to get their business I guess, eh?? Hmmpf.
You got it apart. Makes no sense to do it all to both sides. But then you look at owners lack of easy regular maintenance they will only let Ray do the least work then complain when another should have been replaced part fails.
The 'Carolina Squat' is illegal in North and South Carolina, and Virginia. It didn't even originate in the Carolinas. It's from California and from Baja racers. It looks like a dog dragging it's itchy sphincter on the carpet and screws up suspension geometry. This truck had all the poser toys.😂
It has a leveling kit to clear bigger tires some trucks when they have a leveling kit installed it makes them lean a little
Your ability to diagnose issues is superb.
Nicely done Mr. Ray. Enjoyed the logic behind the disassembly. Just shows that experience pays off.
I had the exact same problem on my 97 f350. We replaced the axle u-joints and the inner seals in the differential. We had it all apart, putting in a Eaton true-trac. The original u-joints had no grease fittings and were dry causing the needle bearings to rust. I was really glad to get it all fixed and not get stranded offroad. Long-time fan.
Thanks Ray .
Positive proof that you need to keep up on vehicle maintenance, especially with 4x4’s with lifts and larger tires. Learned that from my auto shop teacher when I was 16. Thanks Mr. Little and cool video Ray!
Dude needs to get that truck dewormed so it’ll stop dragging it’s ass around.
@@gimmeaford9454 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@gimmeaford9454 I love this 😂😂😂😂😂
Your diagnostic capabilities are phenomenal.
What a clever - and entertaining - diagnostic video. Your knowledge never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for sharing this video, Ray.
Good job Ray.
The level of troubleshooting by Ray is a sign of excellence. The commentary while repairing the vehicle helps with understanding how too repair like vehicle's
as an ex plowing business owner whos owned many super dutys i knew exactly what this was the moment you said it ive done them a few times im just mad at how quickiy you got that hub off lol and not fighting that big snap ring for hours.... that thing can be a nightmare
Hate that Carolina Squat. Not sure why people do that. Again, a great diagnostic video!
Cause they are moronic
Same reason that everybody takes and lifts them up and puts those worthless thin wide tires on them! Otherwise known as, California Chitty Chitty bang bang
As someone who lives in carolina and does Alignments for a living, Im cool with them fucking up their trucks if i get to fix it.
This truck only has a leveling kit to clear bigger tires there for it leans a little
Back in high school on Maui in Hawaii, we all drove some sort of 40's and 50's military jeeps.
We had locking hubs that were tough to change the position on. Later out jeep wagoneers and other trucks also had.
The death of them was changing the position from lock to unlocked and forgetting the other side. Then driving across the island with one wheel hub locked. Great way to burn up the hub or universal. They didn't have no fancy light to tell us if they were in either position.
Yep I'd have seen the spacers and the ghetto lights and told the kid to come get his truck. Jeez !!
I took an alignment class from Hunter. The instructor said that the F-250/350 came with factory Death Wobble.. We all laughed had a good time....he then showed us the recalls and probable causes of Death Wobble. One of them from Ford was that if said truck was lifted to remove lifted parts and return to factory spec, another was to make the caster more negative. I thought it was a neat thing to learn. That's also why I watch Ray to learn other methods of fixing problems.. Thanks Ray.
Hunter is a marketing company. They give you their version of what an alignment. He was right about removing the aftermarket parts, but with a solid front axl, you can't adjust caster/SAI. Also, if it was adjustable, you would need to make caster more positive, not negative. That's why its prone to death wobbles in the first place. A solid front axl forces your front end geometry to be less than optimal. Its a sacrifice made to increase durability.
I think you meant to say, make the caster more positive. I need to get the aftermarket eccentric cones (that install on the ball joints) for my 2005 F350 4x4 front end so I can increase the caster angle. No death wobble but it tends to wander and not return to center as much as it should.
That was simply amazing. The logic you applied was faultless. If it's not this, it has to be that. And the way you explained everything was captivating and entertaining. Looking forward to the next video. Have yourself a great day.
Couldn't agree more!
The process of elimination. Hummmm....this part looks okay....let's dig deeper....this part is okay too....lets dig deeper...AH! what have we here?
My 2001 Super Duty had greasless ball joints. Took plugs out put zerks in and greased them . Took care of my catch problem in the stearing . Life time grease ran out at 50,000 miles lol 😆
We ended up putting zerks in everything we could. Huge difference in the handling.
Concerning any flex or tilting of the lift....you could always get a digital angle finder. They're magnetic and measure in 10ths of a degree. Put it on the lift, zero it out and then, if the lift tilts even the slightest, it'll show up. They cost less than $40
Wife unit should get credit as the 2nd unit camera operator.
Just think a little grease over the years and that part would probably still be good. Great call Ray!
There’s nothing quite like the sound of a bellowing big block. I was somewhat lucky to have experienced a Chevy 350 in a boat with no muffler, no catalytic, just a straight pipe. On weekends we could wake up the whole postcode with that baby.
Diagnosis: the axle goes flippity, but not floppity.
Exact same problem with my 14 F250. A Shop swore that couldn’t be the problem. I put the truck on a lift myself and there it was. Scared me a few times straightening out of a corner and the wheel didn’t want to come back to center.
I am super glad you are here too
I was a truck mechanic decades ago. I worked for an oil well drilling company and the two managers had Chevy suburbans with 4-wheel drive. The steering axle used a double u-joint assembly on each wheel and those u-joints would go out every few months.
Royal pain in the rear to fix. Nothing was easy about taking it apart, replacing the u-joints, or reassembling it. And they never wanted to replace the other one at the same time because they were too busy. So when one went out you new you would have it back in a few weeks later to do the other side. And they were busy busy busy, hurry it up, what is taking so long.
Well done finding this odd problem: it's not obvious. An 88 F250 I used to own had the exact same issue. As I recall, I had to disassemble the wheel bearing to get to the nuts holding the spindle to the knuckle, which, this being in New England, was properly rusted in place. I had to jack the spindle out with a ad hoc screw jack between one of the spindle studs and the wheel bearing nut. But it fixed the steering problem when all was done.
Wow, when you were trying to turn the wheel I could have swore I saw that right side universal jump, it binded just as you put pressure on the wheel just to turn it
Yes, you're right. Noticed it myself and wondered what caused it - and now we know 😁
@@jimsweeney I'm glad I wasn't the only one who saw that😃 was thinking I might have had to much coffee lol
In regards to the heavier socket, you're correct. Because K= 1/2MV^2. The more mass or velocity, the more kinetic energy available. Having phun with physics
Very nice Ford F250 some Nice Suspension goodies Like the Fox 2.0's love it and that ranch hand bumper is sweet 7:00 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I had the same problem on my f250 aswell. Those are the only grease zerks on the whole truck. Luckily I just greased them and didn't have to replace. Now I grease them every oil change and no problems since.
I see lots of super-trucks with massive tires, shiny, bling and zero dirt, scratches, reality.
It's like the jeans that are sold with holes, as tho the wearer actually ... worked .. hahaha
That ford 4x4 vacuum seal is a replacement every time it’s taken apart and has a special tool to reinstall it. Done many of them.
Supposed to smoke test the seal afterwards to make sure it doesn’t leak vacuum.
Kit from ford comes with new o rings on the bearings and a new cover gasket. Be sure to replace them all.
Great catch! I’m thinking that truck never gets put in four wheel drive. With the hub unlocked and the transfer case in neutral, nothing spins. The axle and u- joint find their happy place and stay there, causing the u- joint to seize. I think running in four wheel drive every once in a while is a must!
Judging by the appearance and cleanliness of the truck, I think the poseur owner never gets further 'off road' than a gravel parking lot. This in spite of the thousands he has spent on his manly posturing.
Or just don't buy a 4WD vehicle if you don't actually need the extra traction. A 2WD truck will be able to haul/pull more on dry pavement, is cheaper, and there are fewer parts to fail. Two thumbs up for Ray's diagnostic skills and attention to detail!
@@stevepreskitt283Why will a 2WD be able to haul more? Just the reduced weight?
@@mxpants4884 Reduced weight and reduced friction in the front end by eliminating the transfer case, front diff, axles/U-joints, etc. If you look at the specs on comparable 2WD/4WD models, the 2WDs will pretty much always have a higher cargo/trailering capacity.
@@stevepreskitt283 Thanks for the easy to follow explanation!
Very nice! I always enjoy the methodical progression of finding the problem.
I am amazed at the clean state of that undercarriage. This same truck up here in the salted North would be a heap of frozen nightmare rusted garbage 😂
I'm always jealous of Florida and California mechanics for this reason.
yeah, you should have seen my 2012 Wisconsin truck. I put my foot through the bed one day, Ford put this insulating patch underneath above the DPF, water traps in it and rots the bed from underneath. My front looked horrible from all the rust and took hours to clean up enough so it could be painted with rust barrier and enamel.
As I live and work in a salt belt Ray you are blessed with so little rust. Up here I guarantee that would have been a major battle to disassemble. What I find concerning as well is the amount of metal chunkies in the splines around the snap ring at 36:00 minutes into the video. More damage in there besides the u joint.
The lack of periodic maintenance killed this one. Dry grease zerks point the way. Awesome call on the U-joint!
You called that one saw same exact thing.
Wow Ray, that was an amazing video of your talent in finding the problem pretty quick. Awesome work! 👍🏻
Super diagnosis, without any other possibility. This is it. A few new parts, and its good to go. Great job Ray!
Your detectiving skills are on point, nice work Ray . You never disappoint with the videos 🤘🤘🤘
I noticed the locking hub was relatively dry and looked to have a lot of metal particles floating around in there. This whole thing is looking sketchy….
I noticed that too! Surprised Ray didn't mention it!
about 35:30
Notice: Look at the inner end of the axle shaft. It is dry as a bone, no axle lube. In fact the whole axle shaft is totally dry. Check the axle fluid level, its extremely LOW!
Your factory steering damper is in a binding angle witch can cause a binding reaction.
Ray! My hat off to you brother, I see even wife unit pitching with the videos you record for us to watch man, I appreciate what you do as I myself try to be as good and honest with my customers. I’m an hvac service tech, love your videos man!🦾🤙🦾
Havent found a Ford Dealership yet that will acknowledge that the deathwobble is real.
This. I brought my F350 to the dealership and said I had the death wobble. He tried to act puzzled. I told him to cut the shit he knows what it was. They still didn't fix the issue.
I have same truck and the same Big-Azz pliers... I don't have this problem yet, but when I do, it's coming to you!!! From West Palm... Cheers.
Excellent diagnosis Ray!
Not sure why it’s so common for Superduty owners and lube shops to miss the front you ujoints. All Superdutys with the Dana 60 or Super 60’s have serviceable front ujoints. They are the only grease fittings on the truck. Make a habit of hitting them with a couple pumps of grease at least twice a year, or more if you use four wheel drive often.
20:46 you can actually see the u-joint pop when you 'turn' the wheel.
quick diagnosis, I guess it helps when you know the possible causes and start working up.
I have done many of these bearings, seals, axles, and like A-Rod, I am jealous of that disassembly. I work about 30 minutes north of him, and much rust is seen in these parts. May it all go smooth.👍👍
Hi! GOOD MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! Along with the three new employees! Can’t mess around with the steering while lifting a truck. Some people don’t think about that issue. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
First 😂
I like that The suggested videos that came up after this were for Eric O replacing the front axle U-joints on an F-250. I bet he'll have a much more difficult time getting the axle out.
@36:13 As you were tapping the hub assembly off, I noticed metal particles bouncing around in the splines. Hmmmmm!
Funny, watching you take apart stuff that I put together in the factory years ago.😂 ktp truck plant Louisville Kentucky
You see how much time he took to find the problem that’s a real mechanic and some people don’t want to pay for that well guess what if you wanna just change parts go right ahead get a real Mechanic like this guy Mr rain man Ray
Love the walk through, as you ID'd the issue -- I have an F350 variety, a little older, but same front end setup.
Had a fleet of 20 550 wreckers was a very common issue with front axle u-joints dry and sticking causing same issue's
Great work ray loved the diagnosis
I ran into this 7 or so years ago,however we had a severe steering shimmy. Great diag my friend!
Superb diag Ray ur always on point
Good call on the u-joint find
i love watching you work on them monster trucks you make it look so easy. Why
"Squishy Pieces of Meat" was my favorite 80s band!
ray back in the 69 70 80 we used slpinting wedges you hammered in to take tie rods ball joints apart. think harbor freight still sells them. mac tool and snapon did back in the day. never failed to take tapper joints apart. thanks. from old mach. keep up the good work.
Only problem with them, tore the boots up. Ray doesn't know for sure he will replace them.
Happy hump Day Ray. Safety first is a good work sense. I definitely don’t want either a Superduty or a Civic falling on me.😳
To be fair, Ranch Hand just makes the best heavy duty grille guards and bumpers around. Can't tell you how many I sold for Ram trucks when I was at the Chrysler dealership. They're good stuff, and their grille guards were the only ones I found where if they claimed to not interfere with front end sensors, they didn't. I know the shop had some issues with other brands that would claim to not interfere, but still end up tripping them. If i could afford a modern truck from any automaker, my 13 years of parts experience would make me want a Ranch Hand for it.
Great video... Most people don't realize they have grease points all through their front steering/axel assembly, ARod has a video about that though...
Be careful with the inner axel seal when you reinsert that axel shaft... I was not as careful as I thought I was and ruptured mine... Of course, you don't find out until days after full reassembly when you get the wet spot out the end of the barrel and then have to completely disassemble again... As well as remove the diff cover and gears to get at those inner seals...
Thats a dry seal. If you get lube coming out of that one your inner seal is bad. Go back and look at the tube in his video, you will see it is dry to the pumpkin. The axle seal is to keep moisture out, not lube in. The BIG seal on the axle requires a special tool and is a PITA to install too. I've done a few of these front end repairs.
@@acdii I said nothing about the dry tube or any other seals... I specifically said the "INNER" axel seals... You know, the ones that require the removal of the diff cover, and ring gears to get at the seals... I don't think you read my comment completely, or you didn't understand my comment...
@@TheRealSlowhand Ah, sorry, misread it. I was looking at the end seal as the inner seal, and the big one in the hub as the outer seal. Totally missed Axle in what you said.
The correct way to check ball joints is with tie rod disconnected and weight on a turntable. with the weight hanging the joints are not in ball socket where binding would occur.
Had experienced the Death Wobble on an APC based on F-550. Was going down a hill on a slight left curve when it started without warning. Didn't knew about such issue existence prior to that experience, was quite shocking.
Can you imagine paying 85K for a truck that shakes and wobbles?🤬
The knockout had me cracking up. Thanks for the good video editing ray
Your videos are the best to watch when it comes to this stuff, no one even comes close to your content.
You do have to disassemble and remove the Hub lock to get the Axle Removed from the hub Raymond 30:10 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Good job! Love the sound of that machine. Looks groovy too. Ford and GM have always been rivals, which is actually good for the industry, as each one tries to outdo the other.
I’ll start out by commenting that the physics have been altered which might screw with driving quality.
Good video @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I was going to say that this is a dangerous amount of worm cans to open when you don't even know you'll be doing the work, but you do know. I feel a lot better now.
That's the thing about Ray's Diagnosis - he WILL know (you WILL come out rusty bolt!). He never assumes based on totality of the evidence, he finds the smoking gun :)
Tammer Haps was a phrase worth me getting up for earlier than needed!
I used to build off-road rigs in Utah from mild to wild rock crawlers. Pay close attention to the geometry of ANY lifted vehicle because almost ALL lift kits get it WRONG. Instead of engineering their kits properly they choose to push the stock limits to the point of being DANGEROUS. Why do they do this?................To keep the cost down to the consumer who does NOT want to pay the bucks to do it right! I know lift kits, big tires and wheels look cool but you are asking for trouble and more often than not your rig will actually LOOSE off-road performance. My advice? Learn how to drive off-road, know the limits of your rig and if you want it to perform like a rock crawler, build one. BTW Ray, be sure to check that Track Bar really good because 90% of the time it will be faulty and a root cause of Death Wobble. One last thing guys, DO NOT USE WHEEL SPACERS the stress they cause on bearings is unreal.
Dude, you really have missed your calling as a teacher of the mechanical arts! When I watch you, The way you explain it makes it really clear what you're looking for and why you're looking for it! Thank you!
You seem to be missing the point that HE IS A TEACHER. Lol. He just get paid more.
Lol😊
Definitely a nice truck but the high lift and wheel spat will certainly be nothing but troubles. Just puts too much stress on the suspension,axle and steering components.
Great video Ray!... Looking forward to the repairs
Awesome breakdown
Great video and thanks much for putting out the info!
Love that tool!
Thing that goes up...yea, I get it. Ray for Congress!
🤣🤣🤣
Ray, my '02 Ford Excursion had that same Exact Problem... on a Left turn , the U-Joints locked up... had to do a full on repair of all the moving components, it now runs straight down the road, steer it with my pinky finger again.
Ray, another great video for us DIYers. However, I am disappointed that you did not take a few moments to highlight the Wife Unit at 7:08. You know she is the REAL star of the show. :)
As the saying goes…
“I love work: I could watch it all day”🤠
thankyou Ray,looking forward to the follow up,,have yourself a great day too,,👌👌
In this age of "modern" vehicles and tools there is still no substitute for a big hammer.
Ray you made that look easy 😂 great job
I was watching you bash that ball joint and the next thing I knew I seeing black!!!😂😂😂
When in doubt whip it out The "U" joints !
On that style Ford tie rods up down is not a fail. Those joints have the forward off set and both tie rods are not ball joint style, they are sleeves. Check L-R play. If they were ball joints the drag link would drop and coul bounce. Since it's a solid axle the tie rods will always be parallel and don't need the multi axis motion. The reason the left end would not drop is due the sleeve joints not having too much slop.
20:50 I could see the U-joint assembly on the right kinda fall out of the hub when you moved the wheel...
yep, my rear bumper for the 83 ranger i had came from an s10, fits perfectly, it's like they were made by the same company or something.
A 4 minute video on YT that isn't very informative or entertaining: "When will it end?!?"
A 40 minute video from Ray that's informative & entertaining: "What? It's over?!?".
I'm always amazed by american engine sizes.
I drive a Dacia Lodgy here in Germany and it has a 1.6 liter engine. 😄
This Ferd is an amazing machine and I also like Ray's Chevy, which I think looks nicer. But at about $7.20 per gallon for unleaded giant V8 engines that do about 10 mpg aren't a popular choice.
This video was very useful to me, because I want to check the suspension of my 1.6 monster truck, it seems to wander a tiny bit on the Autobahn.
Good catch, most people forget to grease those joints. Arod is going to be jealous or the lack of rust.
Ray, you should note that there will be a little play in all the joints, Tie rod, ball joint etc since there is a spring pushing the ball up to the socket to keep tension on it while providing clearance for grease and movement. The passenger side is perfect, but the other ones do have excess wear. Also, why not use a pickle fork? That hub looked fairly new, which means they replaced it but probably didn't have the tool for the seal, so left the driveshaft alone. I had a 2012 F350 that I did a full front rebuild, the main cause of DW is due to not enough caster, the specs are up to 3.5 degree, but 4 or more degrees eliminates DW. Think of a shopping cart wheel, that's what DW is. Loose trackbars set it off as well as ball joints. After rebuilding and adding 4.5 degree cams, DW was a thing of the past.
@@Knucklehead4400 Usually the joint is being replaced though, but I get what you say, just have to be careful on how it's used. I have a set that works with my air hammer and it doesn't attack the boot like the hammer in ones do.