Do you need a PD16? - Fuel Injected Turbo Classic Mini
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- #fuelinjection #classicmini #haltech
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❱ Parts in this Episode:
- @haltech Elite 750 with Harness: www.haltech.com/product/ht-15...
- @haltech PD16 with Harness: www.haltech.com/product/ht-19...
0:00 Intro
0:42 Items Overview
4:17 How a PDM Works
5:36 Items Overview
10:46 Combining Wiring Harnesses
27:15 Recap and TLDR
31:38 Outro
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Great video Cole, nicely explained, I used to teach Aeronautical Engineering and I can say that your content was excellent, and easily understood, I am involved with two new Car build projects at this time, which will make the use of the PD16 a must have.
Although this technology is not cheap, it will revolutionise the method in the way that wiring will be performed in the future. By the way, I believe that Power distribution Systems in Homes and industry would benefit from this sort of technology, if its not already out there.
Having low current switching, fault protection, and data logging as well as controlling the ins and outputs of 230 volt systems, would provide additional safety. The automation they bring will reduce complexity, hopefully if enough interest can be generated, it should have the cost of these devices coming down.
Excellent video, Cole. I agree with you, this is the way forward for well built project cars. A lot of people will push back on the price, but that's usual with any new tech (including aftermarket EFI). Looking forward to the rest of this series!
Great vid Col, definitely giving me further food for thought! Thanks
Oopsy - $1116.00. But still really glad you are covering the new high tech stuff, nobody else is.
With the loom it’s actually $1400 😭
great video
I'd recommend some open barrel crimps with a decent ratcheting crimper insulated with some heat shrink, just to ensure you don't find yourself stranded due to a failed butt connector.
Hi I was wondering what you planned to do for your starter motor setup please
Nice, a bit like the M unit for motorbikes
Great video, not a fan of those plastic blue splices though, check out I think haltec have got a video on some better ways, might be worth a look.
I’ll have a look. They were what I had on hand but I have a feeling I may shorten those runs anyways so I’ll see about better connectors
Will you be fitting some sort of CAN bus driven display for warning lights, blown "fuses" etc? Interesting tech!
The capability is there, but I likely will go more low tech and add lights mapped to induvidual outputs on the PD16 for check engine, and "blown fuses". I don't really wanna have a big LCD screen in the passenger compartment just it stays looking more retro. I will be talking about those plans in a lot more detail in some upcoming videos.
You said they should bundle the 750 with the PDM. At that point you should just get a Nexus it has the PDM built in.
Yeah originally when I made this video, the Nexus R3 wasn't out and the R5 was super overkill for an a-series in my opinion. I am revising this build while I repaint my shell and moving to a Nexus R3 + a PD16 to run the entire electrical system of the car.
Hi! I was hoping you might run us through examples of what you'd use the high current outputs vs the half bridge outputs for please?
Thats a great suggestion. I am doing a revision of this with a Nexus R3 and a PD16 in the near future and will go over what I use each output for and share my wiring diagrams.
@@classicminidiy that would be amazing! I know the possibilities are endless with the wiring but it would be nice to see a real world example
Thanks for introducing us to the pd16! If you were going to replace headlight and indicator and wipers power with the pd16 is it possible to use the original toggle switches to serve as inputs?
Happy to help! Yes so I am actually taking on a bigger re-wiring project for this car with the PD16 and R3 and I will be doing exactly what you're asking. Use the inputs on either device wired directly to my original OEM switches. This way from the inside it'll look original but those toggles will be doing all the OEM functions via the PD16/R3. I am gonna do a whole series of videos on it in the next month or so.
Can't wait for the new series! I'll keep an eye out! Thank you!
Hi Cole, great Vid, but do you know what's happened to Paul as I have not seen his Vids and your joint ones for a while, Best Regards
Hey Douglas! Paul is doing well, he has a TON going on outside his videos right now so I think he is just in catch up mode right now. He just shipped my cylinder heads back to me today actually!
Can the PDM16 be used with other ECU's and/or stand alone?
Technically you can use the PD15 with other ECU's that support CAN but if you dont have a haltech I would probably use another brand that is a little more agnostic of the primary ecu and likely would be a bit cheaper.
im still super confused on the removing wires part
Most of those wires were providing power to the relays themselves and then back out to the sensors. Since you no longer require the relays, the circuits running to those relays also can be removed. All you need after that is the 12v power lines coming from the PD16 and out to the ECU, and then ultimately all the sensors when they get wired in.
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Turbo lag !