Horizontal Boring Mill Restoration - Disassembly of the Cross Slide Screw
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2022
- Horizontal Boring Mill Restoration - Disassembly of the Cross Slide Screw
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keith is going to be sent 3 of those cutters by the time the next video comes out
an analytic comment! Gotta feed that algorithm.. You are appreciated Keith.. Just take care of yourself son...
Had to check when the metric system was created. Thanks for stretching my brain one more time.
SKF being a Swedish company their bearings are metric, as are almost all ball bearings. The 09 at the end means it was a 45 millimeter ID. The last 2 numbers are multiplied by 5 to get the ID of a ball bearing.
I'm confused as to why the race says "made in USA" then
You can buy splined shafts off Ebay really cheap- and also the matching coupler to make your wrench. that almost looks like a PTO shaft from a tractor- common as dirt.
I’ve ground and single point cut gears for years just the way you plan to do these splines. Never owned a complete set of gear cutters. When done correctly nobody can tell the difference.
I was expecting you would turn down the damaged crenilations and install a pre-made collar, interference fit. However, looking forward to the tool grinding. thnaks again for interesting content and I do hope you are keeping well.
Keith, I agree with others that the last section beyond the captured collar is a separate piece. Either screwed or shrunk on and pinned.
An alternate thought is the smooth section between the captured collar and visible fine threads is actually a threaded sleeve! Perhaps a dunking in the solvent tank is in order.
It might even be a slick repair from half way through its working life.
@@raycarnis9540 I agree, a well done repair. Unlike the crank handle bodge.
Keith
Talking about the metric system and how old the Machine is got me thinking, so I did a little research and found that the Metric System of Measurement Based on the Meter for length and the Kilogram for mass was adopted in France in 1795. I found that Very interesting.
Hope you are doing well. Glad that you are back in the shop!
Keith - good choice on grinding the horizontal boring machine bed.
It's okay that you didn't get to any machining. The thought process and set up to get there is the hard part and most interesting.
You may have already thought of this, but you could use the slightly different cutter which you said you have to cut the splines on the shaft, and then just make a matching handle with the same cutter. It would be close to original without the labor to make the single tooth cutter.
Frank
Buy a few handles, pick a good spline, or match it to one you already have in the shop
Exactly, and cut the splines on both shafts and cut the mating teeth on the wrench, then see if you could case harden them for longevity.
Glad to see you in the shop Keith!
Glad to see you back in the shop!
Boy would be a cool video for a tool post grinder on the lathe for a tooth cutter
Good to see you back at work.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for sharing
Great lunch time viewing as always 👍
Thanks for sharing! Great info!
Great video Keith, keep'um coming..
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
Always enjoy your videos
Thanks for another great video.
Thanks Keith.
Looking forward to this project
That sounds like a good plan. It will feel great to use the finished part!
You have no idea how much I would love to be in your shop rebuilding this machine with you! I can't wait to see the next step in this project.
SKF the pride of industrial Sweden! (along with some other companies) SKF stands for swedish ball bearing factory (Svenska Kullager Fabriken)
Looking forward to the vid on making the single point cutter.
Hi Keith, good to see you up and around back in the shop - take care and thanks for the video.
Great video . You have cool ideal on cutting those groves .
That’s a great project to get your teeth into (no pun intended) looking forward as always to seeing your progress on this. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Keith, I am happy to see you up and getting at it again. Don't over do it & stay safe out there. Cheers
you machined that key stock out. i love your rebuilds . good show
happy to see you back to work in the shop. stay healthy so Ican enjoy watching your videos for years to come.
While there may be future benefits to making the boring bar you describe, I'd recommend making a disk to fit 1 of your existing horizontal bars. Still single point cutting - but much quicker to make.
Keith, When I made some gears I ground single point 3/8 HSS tools and made a "fly" cutter holder for the 3/8 tool radially that runs on a 1 1/4 " mill arbor like a milling cutter. A 3" diameter 1" thick disk of steel with a 1 1/4 arbor hole and key way, a open 3/8 X 3/8 slot on one side with one edge on center line of the arbor and a set screw out to the OD to lock the cutter. I ground the tool to length and the back end rests on the arbor in the 3/8 slot to keep it from slipping in and changing the OD of the tool tip. It can be made with 1 slot as a single point, 2 or more with exactly match ground tools.
Keith, part of my interest is in seeing the tool made to make the tool. The suggestions below are all processes that I don't really know how to do. I'm just rather hoping that no one sends you the tool already made.
KEITH, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT TO SEE YOU COMING RIGHT ALONG, I'M REDDY, LETS GO TO WORK...SEE YOU NEXT TIME..DON'T FORGET THE CATS AND DOGS...
Been looking forward to seeing progress on this machine! Job I had years ago they scrapped out a HUGH horizontal boring mill. They had to take it out in pieces because the rotary assembly alone took TWO forklifts to move! All told the parts took three low-boy tractor trailers to haul it away! ;)
If done at the right time, the scrap value was probably pretty high.
@@garys9694 That and it was an ancient machine that had been converted to CNC, all that went with it ...
Hi Keith, interesting project again. Hearing your plan for replacing the end of shaft, I recommend watching how Cutting Edge Engineering replaces the end of hydraulic shafts. He leaves a section with a smaller diameter on which you can center the new part. Good luck with the project and I can’t wait to watch the following video’s.
If it's not too late, I think MSC has pre-made tool bit holders to insert into a round boring bar. I saw Keith Fenner use them, so may be worth a call to Keith, to save some broaching work
Wouldn't it be a good idea to check the dimensions of the mating part and make the spline fit that?
When you said that one part looked like it was captive on the shaft, you may want to take a closer look at it. That end of the shaft may very well be a threaded stub shaft and will screw on to the big threaded shaft.
I'd sacrifice that horizontal cutter to do this job. Put it on a tool and cutter grinder, grind the required profile, then you can use your standard milling arbor.
It only has to fit the handle mate, don’t over think it.👍
Hi Keith I'm thinking that the SKS bearing was put on when the shaft was stripped not when it was made. Great video as always
SKF was around at the time I think. Sweden has been in metric system for a long time. Skf: Svenska kullagerfabriken
@@MF175mp @11:29 it stamped made in the USA....
@@davidbawden6567 they probably had a factory in the US already at that time as well
@@MF175mp Since 1912
Why not modify (re-grind) a 3/8" cutter and use that on the horizontal mill. Also I'd either weld up and then cut, or turn down and shrink a sleeve on. Just a thought.
Great video.
Wow amazing that ball bearings even excisted back then !
I thought some where in the '20 or '30's they could be manufactured
First class video Keith , well done ☆☆☆☆☆!
Grtz from the netherlands
Johny Geerts
In the early 1600s Galileo described caged ball bearings. In 1869 a French bicycle builder named Jules Suriray patented radial ball bearings for bicycle axles. In 1907 Swedish company SKF was producing ball thrust bearings like the one on Keith's milling machine.
@@Ambidexter143 thanks alot for the machining history i lacked ☆
Real impressed they could make such small spherical , very precise balls.
Grtz from the netherlands
Johny Geerts
BTDT. Back about 1975 I made a splined shaft for my dad's race car. It had an unknown clutch plate center for the female part, and I had to make a single-point cutter and horizontal mill holder for it. Making the cutter to match that internal spline was pretty hit-and-miss, but I got it done. Simple 2" of splines on a 1" shaft took me like a week to get right. Probably would have been easier if I'd been allowed to make both parts rather than being stuck with that clutch center, as I would have been able to just use existing cutters and broaches...
i am not a professional machinist, BUT i would bore the cut off end the same size hole as that center pin. make a tight fit long pin. That would fit all the way through the new peice into the old. Then i would make the repair piece to fit over that pin. I would cut that spline on a SHAPER. then press it together, V the joint deep and weld it together.
Just a thought as i suspect you have already do the repair, if i eere doing the job i would cut off the end as you intend but would drill and ream for the parallel handle to turn on and fit a ring on this with the teeth cut into it. This way you could cut the teeth with an end mill on a rotary table using the vertical milling machine. The parts could all be loctited and pinned together. If the scolloped shape is important to you then your way is of course best.
Keith, you could use a straight cutter too. Mill the center groove first and then rotate 8 degrees for side one and rotate 16 back for the other side. Three passes for one groove but no grinding needed and a full cutter job. Idea? Best, Job
Being as how the end of that rod is no good in current condition, why not just set it up in a lathe and weld it up? You could still do whatever turning you would need and it should end up with fewer problems mating them together? Either way very best of luck to you.
That would get my vote as well
I don't think he wants theweld joint n the middle of a spline; also the center is welded in here.
Keith glad to see that you are doing well. Still eating that elephant one bite at a time LOL
I hope the bearings get to you ok with the problems you have had with deliveries.
Skip the welding, Loctite the new to the old and if you want, drill and drive a cross pin in. 👍
On your drawing of the cutter I didn't see a radius of the cut mentioned, was thinking that was kinda critical to get a proper cut.
Looking forward to your next video will you make your cutting tool. And then mill the part.
I did not hear you say the diameter of the needed cutter, but I guess that you do know that. Some of the other machinist RUclipsrs have tool grinders, why not try and see if one of them would grind down the included angle of a existing cutter, you surely have a dull / damaged one of a appropriate diameter. Looking forward to see the solution.
liked for algorithm
Keith Fly cutting don't make a full shaft for the cutter. Big lump bar bore it fit arbour collers hold it on like a cutter. only need drill hole for the Hss and a grub screw to hold it in.
Possible gash job with 3/16 cutter firstly
Steve
14:56 - Yes! "Included angle". You might even list cut lathe cut dims as "on radius" or "on diameter" so your viewers knew. Maybe.
16:59 - Start with the Acme cutter. clean up with your single-edge tool. Or, have your sharpening service 'correct' an Acme cutter. Even in SF, that is not an expensive effort.
what about taking the gear cutter (circular ) and grinding it on the lathe using a tool post grinder. Then cut the back relief using your dividing head on your surface grinder, or do the entire thing on the surface grinder.
I think we're missing a clue regarding that captive collar.
The captive collar suggests two-piece construction ??
Thanks for the video, Keith. Have you considered altering an existing horizontal mill cutter to fit the required profile? See you in 2 weeks at the Bar-Z. Jon
I believe those were cut with gear cutters. try to see if a DP6 or larger cutter will fit into the slot.
From the shape, I believe they used an involute gear cutter to cut those splines.
1:54 A solution - but a bodge nonetheless! - It had to be done at the time to keep production going I guess. :)
Keith, this is a question your planned order of operations raised in my head. If you cut the spline first, is that interrupted cut likely to damage the edge on your threading tool? I have never cut an interrupted thread like that, but I have always treated threading tools as more fragile than regular turning tools because of the narrow 60 degree point, and this looks like a fairly fine thread, so your tool needs a pretty small radius on the point. Since a threading tool is a form tool, even feeding at 30ish degrees, as your thread gets deeper you are engaging the full depth of the cut on the leading edge of the tool, and that would represent a significant hammering on that tool edge. My response may be entirely due to an incorrect feeling about the fragility of threading tools and my limited thread cutting experience, I have never cut an interrupted thread that I can remember.
My thoughts exactly the same.
If you can not get the sleeve off? Put the screw in the lathe take off just enough material to true up the threads. Leave the splines that are left. Make a double ended shaft with splines in the middle. Bore the screw for a press fit into the screw. Pin to the screw.
Drill a hole the whole way through the fabricated shaft in case some day you want to remove it with a grease gun.
The shaft from the threads to the collar look good and is critical. The stub shaft for the crank can be off a bit and you will never notice.. Don't wake a sleeping dog.
Yes , you are right. SKF means Schweinfurter Kugellager Fabrik. A German factory in Bavaria, hence the metric dimensions.
Historic fact: During WWII that SKF factory was a crucial target for the allies. When it was destroyed, the Panzer tank production was as well. A relative small target, but huge for the successful war effort!
Andrew prestige at evolvent design might have something like this
Would seem to me that you could get a single flute "end mill" cutter ground to match the desired profile and just use your mill and a super spacer. The rounded profile on the inside isn't required as you are just using 3/8" or so fo the splines.
Imperial gear tooth pressure angle is 14.5 degrees and it wouldn't take much wear to look more like 16 degrees. Could a rack form cutter have been used?
Glad you decided to send the table off to be machined... You're doing too nice a job to not have that done nicely :)
Hey Keith, Did you remember to check through the lot of gifted cutters from "Odds & Ends 134" video?
SKF stand for “Svenska Kullagerfabriken” Swedish Ball Bearing Factory, they are not made in Sweden anymore, the bearing you have is from Sweden, you should not though it away, it’s special.
@@flat-earther a little story about that made in USA ting, for a while ago I needed some machinist squares, I thought, I want some good ones, I found someone that was made I USA, they were pretty expensive, I bought them and when they came I got really disappointed, they were not square at all badly made, but it was stamped in them, made in USA, then I bought some one that was made in China they were perfectly square, really nice made, and they cost 1/3 off the price so I don’t know about that made in USA thing.
Well I am no one to start up that old Metric v Imperial discussion…. So just congrats again for another great video!
12:40 I also find it very odd that SKF is a Swedish company, it was started in 1907, yet 11 years later they were making metric bearings for imperial machines in the USA. And the bearing is marked "Made in USA" so that means they had a factory over here? That all just seems too strange to be true, but I guess it is.
It was already in Japan and Australia in 1909 and in the USA in 1912.
I guess the manufacturer of the machine did not care if that thrust bearing was imperial or metric, what they would do would be to take some bearing catalogs and look for the cheapest thing that they could adapt to their design and that would do the job, probably the only imperial alternative back then would be a much more expensive Timken tapered roller bearing, and making a collar to adapt a metric bearing was a very easy and cheap solution.
Hello Keith I would like to help again what size of round stock do you need to make the cutter holder ???
Hopefully he already has a handle that is going to match to the spline he cuts. I notice that handle he had lying on the table seemed to have seven splines, which seemed like an odd number.
Hm... I'm thinking none of those spline slots got smaller since they were born! My guess is they were all born smaller than the smallest one now. Seems like using an average of their widths, for example, might result in slots that are looser than the originals. Just a thought! Good to see you.
Does that last thrust bearing screw off over the threads?
Couldn't you use your acmehlike cutter in your newly restored metal planar?
Did I miss the competition of the stoker engine?
Surely you'll remove the bulk of the material with a smaller cutter and just use the highspeed steel single cutter to clean up the edges?
That floating washer makes me suspicious that the part you have torn up was either pressed or shrunk onto the shaft when it was constructed.
SKF =Svenska kullagerfabriken / Swedish ball bearing factory
Is it possible that the trapped collar has just spun on the shaft and worn a groove in it? You might need to spray weld and machine that area. My guess is that collar was primarily responsible for fitting a metric bearing to an imperial shaft.
A lot of ball and roller bearings are made to metric dimensions.
So you are pretty much going to make a line boring bar?
Did you give up on the steam stoker engine?
Yes!!!!! I knew somebody would ask. There used to be hundreds of "stoker engine" questions per comment section but lately it seemed to drop off. BTW, the horizontal boring machine that he is working on is going to be a important part of the "stoker engine" repair!
How did all those splines get destroyed like that? Seems insane that there could be that much damage.
Easy, a damaged handle and a burly operator.
A handle and a forklift do not work well together!
Why not use your planer instead of grinding the table?
I'm puzzled by your use of the other spline to provide the shape for the lead screw that uses a handle. The lead screw slots look like they're parallel as opposed to widening out. At any rate the shape should match the handle, not that other part.
Put the handle on the other part and see how well the teeth match before you start to duplicate them.
Some Jocko Willink merch i.e " extreme ownership"...
how are you doing?
Why don't you just use a parallel cutter that is close to the width you need and then just rotate the shaft 8° each way?
My thoughts exactly - much easier and the result would be near-perfect.
... and offset the y-axis accordingly.