It's become so common in my job that when I see wonky fuel rail pressures and/or MAP codes, I start checking engine health like vacuum and compression and that often reveals timing chain or other mechanical issues.
It does look like it’s a timing belt huh? What do you think the chances are that it’s stretched, skipped forward/reverse one belt notch, and that’s it? Would timing belt inspection be warranted here as next item to look at?
@@EvzenKovar-i5p Well, timing correlation codes would usually show but an idle vacuum test would also indicate an issue. Have seen mechanical issues with the HP pump cause funny fuel rail pressure readings too. Whenever the HP pump gets erratic activation mechanically, it causes the regulator to go crazy trying to dial in pressure. Ivan is the man and he will figure it out. I'm just keeping the popcorn ready for the next video. LOL
That's definitely arcing. I never would have noticed had I not looked in the comments. Never even thought that could happen but that is certainly something I will look out for now.
Working for a dealer we've seen several of these 4cyl engines come it with a stuck H.P. fuel pump tappet stuck & chewed up due to lack of service. Oil gums up the tappet allowing the cam lobe to cut a hole in the tappet also wiping out the cam. They can/will run loud causing a stumble or stall issue as well.
@@hendriediepenbroek5344 klopt maar deze man is echt heel erg goed. Zijn filmpjes hebben me al vaker geholpen met dingen waar de vakgarage niet eens uit kwam😅
Hi Brent. I asked this before, nobody answered. Back when I was young, carbureted vehicles ran with one fuel pump that ran off an eccentric on the camshaft, just like these high pressure pumps do, so why are two fuel pumps needed at all? Deleting the one in the tank would save a lot per vehicle. Of course, it looks like we will all be driving battery cars pretty soon anyway.
@@JamesAgansI guess because it's really hard to build a high pressure pump that can handle the flow rate, produce high pressure and pull the fuel through the in tank filter, fuel filter and lines. This would probably cause the pressure to drop before the pump and therefore boil the gasoline.
In part 2, you were noting that the signal to the Turbo gate control solenoid was a "PWM" signal. However, you were testing it as an "Analog" signal. As I recall, a "PWM" signal is a cycled voltage as a percentage of time. being a 3 port valve, it has to rapidly cycle from "On" to "Off' or "Open" to "Closed" rapidly to create a varied output to the servo actuator. I believe your scope on the signal would show this. But, the extreme hysteresis of the Dorman component was (is) definitely bad. For PWM to work, the device must work with a very tight "mid-voltage" hysteresis, as the replacement bench test showed. I've learned a lot with these videos. But, sadly, I'm getting too old to use it much. However, I am using this knowledge to teach others. Thanks for the help! TJ
Had an issue in VAG TDI - it was a sticking fuel rail solenoid. Graphed it and you could see it clearly when comparing commanded vs. actual rail pressure. Symptoms was limp home and the flashing glow plug trouble light. New OEM and fixed.
One thing I am concerned about is the oil intrusion into the wirung harness. How many other connectors on the wiring harness show engine oil? I woyld check all the connectirs on the wiring harness for oil snd then look at the connectors where afsiled seal may allow oil into the connector and into the wiring harness. This type of failure can lead to control module/sensor failure.
There's so many variables especially when you don't know the repair history as what's aftermarket and what's OEM. Keep plugging away at it. Thanks Ivan!
I work for Ford and I have seen a few of the cops underneath the high pressure fuel pump worn over the cam shredded a little bit. This will affect fuel pressure sometimes intermittently. It might be worth just pulling off the high pressure pump and inspecting the cup that rides on the cam and the cam lobe itself. We also have a lot of problems with a low pressure sensor. This will cause a vehicle to die out .
I have a 2.0L EcoBoost in a 2015 Fusion. At about 40,000 miles it started to intermittently stall upon coming to a stop following a hot soak. Started right back up and didn’t repeat. No codes, no clues, and difficult to reproduce. Various forum posts showed I wasn’t alone and suggested replacing the low-pressure and/or high-pressure fuel sensors. Replaced the low-pressure sensor; didn’t help. Replaced the high-pressure sensor; no problems since, about 5 years and 25,000 miles ago.
When it stalled out at 13:30 the graphs were pretty interesting. Also the desired fuel pressure fell and the control solenoid duty cicle was down too. Like it did in on purpose. Evil machine.
It is nothing but admirable to see the persistence you have. I have no doubt that you will win this battle! Honestly if it was me I'd tell the customer to get this heap of trash off my lawn!!!😂
By the way, when Ivan says “we might have to use the scope,” with an implied “oh darn,” what he is really saying is “yahoo! We have to use the scope!” Because Ivan loves him some scope! And I like seeing that.
19:43 do you circumvent the check the device's power/ground and control line integrity based upon fact device seems to deviate normal operations only on rare happening? 22:00 Why not go after the single known code? It's gotta be on your to-do list anyway, right? online==> The P0106 trouble code generally means an issue with the MAP circuit having incorrect output range issues or a problem with engine performance. The diagnostic code is set when either the Power Train Control Module (PCM) detects an abnormal signal voltage from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor relating to the current throttle position or engine load or a signal voltage that does not show a good relationship with the MAP sensor. I KNOW that YOU know but I wanted to refresh myself! So now I'd dig out the scope and ....
Interesting, i know this car is fixed and long gone, but it is still an interesting diagnosis. As always with these cases, i would try to think through how i would approach it. At this point it is an intermittent stall with only a map sensor code, possibly indicating an engine breathing issue. I would first perform an engine cranking mechanical test with a scope, relative compression vs intake vacuum vs exhaust pulses at the tailpipe vs ignition coil 1 signal. This one test would reveal a lot of data regarding engine health,breathing and timing. Following that i would scope ignition cylinder 1 vs all injector currents (amp clamp) vs rail pressure and intake pressure. I would want to see what are we losing first: injection, railpressure or ignition or all of them? I would also quickly scope all the ignition coils just to make sure we don't have a faulty coil spiking the pcm. This would be my approach, quick, easy and non invasive. This should provide direction or at least enough data. Thanks Ivan & merry Xmas to you. I will be looking forward to the next video in this saga.
i can hear the actual vacuum leak squeal. Boost leak test kit is the secret sauce to turbo cars. My cruze this was a must have in my toolkit. Paid itself a 100 times over.
Thanks, Ivan. I'm looking forward to watching this episode in December and am thinking you had to plan this since earlier this year (May I think) when it happened and save it for a Christmas special. Probably hard to hold off dropping it sooner. Merry Christmas.
I had a 2019 Ford Focus with the 1.5 ecoboost. It was quick enough, but it just had so many issues from the very start. Stop/Start never worked correctly, weird errors would pop up and then vanish at the next key turn, seemed to be a car that was still in development.
This engine is due for heavier service to begin with. The timing belt, if it's the wet type, will need replacement of both as well as oil pickup tube screen cleaning. Being a non-keyed crank, they are awkward to fix, needing special tools to align the internals as well as buying the special "friction" ring from the dealer for the crank pulley. These throw away vans are more $$$ trouble than they're worth. The HPFP sometimes runs on a "bucket" and that can also wear through. If left long enough and it wears far enough, it damages the cam and then you have REAL trouble. The spark plug feed wires look sloppy and suspiciously fat and crumpled too. They should be uniform and sleek. Someone has definitely been under this hood who wasn't very "pro". By the time people invest $ in "100,000 mile" maintenance, enough things need a rebuild or parts replacement that almost equal the vans value. Like Nissan's with bad CVT's that sit on people's lawns, broken, these vans are in a similar category in that it costs too much to repair for the value you get in return. Engine work is their obvious weak spots.
Two things 1. Read my comment from part 2. 2 The shot where you were looking at the steering wheel & said is that the problem (blue oval) Cheers Ivan for your sanity stay away from turbo engines.
An acquainted had issues with her van. Fuel system three times the fourth time told her very expense and talked her into buying used vehicle which turned out to be bad also and then she had to get something she really didn't care for.
Hey Ivan, in the'80's our shop had an Allen electronic engine analyzer. Used engine vacuum as a diag connection to ck intake pulses to locate valve/timing issues. MAP trying to do the same thing? Seeing an issue? This is a good one! Happy Holidays to you and Amanda!!
I don't believe it's a timing issue because that would be mechanical and that wouldn't fix itself plus your fuel trims would never go back to zero they would always stay off, it wouldn't run as good as it does. I would check the can bucket on the high pressure fuel pump but again that's mechanical if that was worn down you would think it would be consistent so I think you're making the right call on the high pressure fuel pump
Ivan… Use your scope to look at the signal out of the MAP Sensor. Expect steady with minimal noise. Do you need to do a sensor Re-Learn after replacing the MAP? If you suspect heat soak of the High-Pressure solenoid, use a heat gun to simulate. Possible vacuum leak? Why not connect a dial vacuum gauge to monitor and compare. Does this engine have an EGR valve? Use a long screwdriver in your ear to investigate clicking noises. Why not connect your Amp clamp to the High-Pressure solenoid and monitor with the Scope? If it is acting up, you may see it in the Current Draw.
YEAH... I agree with dmarsden.. there's an arc coming from the coil next to your thumb @ 18:08 and if coil IS arcing it could easily damage the adjacent pump...
You need to be looking at the detection conditions for triggering the 106 fault code. What has to happen to make the pcm think there is a fault with the sensor. I’m willing to bet it will compare values for the map against boost pressure and baro values.
With the MAP performance code i was thinking "look at the fuel pressure in the freeze frame data" but when you finally did there was no fuel pressure data in the freeze frame. Bummer 🤣😂
I had a 2017 Focus with the 1.0 ecoboost doing something similar to this and it was intermittant at first. Started throwing evap codes, don't remember the specific codes but I couldn't prove the evap solonoid was bad since it was working everytime I checked it. Finally it failed hard and I replaced it. Codes and problem went away. It's gone now, didn't want to wait for Ford to fix the timing belt recall since they still don't have parts after more than a year into the recall. It was replaced with a new Subaru.😊
Also about the "starter still going when the key isnt turned" that's a feature ford started adding around 2015 or so they call it flick start flick the key to start and back and itll fire it up on its own. Mercedes and FCA (at the time) implemeted that feature to their cars about 5-7 years earlier.
I noticed the fuel rail pressure pid shows 300 psi when high pressure fuel pump is disconnected. It should be the same pressure as the low side when unplugged. This indicates either the high pressure fuel pump is stuck on or your fuel rail pressure sensor is bias high. Just my two cents! Thanks for all the good videos!
Ford transit connect ,made in Turkey to avoid the chicken tax .Ford assembled them in Turkey and shipped them to America with seats and full Glass as a passenger car then removed the glass and interior , that way they avoided the federal chicken tax on light trucks established in the 1960s by president Johnson
Seems very unlikely they came with full glass, the metal in the sides and rear doors is part of the body skin rather than a separate part bonded into place. If you want to fit windows you have to cut the metal out.
@@ferrumignis yeah these have solid metal sides. I thought the "chicken tax" was only applicable to pickup trucks? I've never heard of vans having taxes.
The vans are unloaded in Baltimore in a free trade zone. The back seat is taken out and must be destroyed . There is a unique machine on site to do this.
If Ivan looks at you at any point, and is dead serious when he says “time to fire the parts cannon”……hug your wife and kids because the apocalypse is upon us and we must try to enjoy our last moments before the earth explodes. Ending makes me scared Ivan. Will we even make it to Christmas?
My regal has a fuel pump in the tank that was malfunctioning and would cause the high pressure fuel pump to make loud noises. Replaced the pump in the tank and fixed the problem. No codes were shown while this was happening.
We'd be seeing constant high fuel trims if there was too much ethanol in the fuel. The fuel trims bounce around on this, sometimes high positive, sometimes high negative.
diagnose dan had a problem with heat soak. he gave it a blast of something cold. the car started, then he hit the part with heat it wouldnt start. i always ask the dealer if he uses oem parts and they get pissed off. i know some of them are full of sheeet!
I'd put the pico scope on the high pressure pump solenoid. That spike to 2000psi makes the pump suspect. If that's not it I'd look at the TPS. Sometimes those get hot and intermittent. Very interested to see what you come up with
The OE HP fuel pump does have "FoMoCo" and some part numbers on it but I think they're on the front of the pump, on the coil side. Looks like a Bosch as it's made in Germany.
Nope. Trick of the light. Keep watching that spot and a second or two later you can see a spider web hair in the "arc" location. I had to watch it a few times to figure it out. Really does look like a short, but it's not.
One thing I have learned from watching Ivan's channel Most of not all of the diagnostic are a few months old and recently published One way you can tell is at the end he will say that the vehicle has been running great for months In other words by the time you make a suggestion the car has been gone for quite a while
In a earlier episode of this series you were checking two sensors that were close by each other, one was the MAP, I think. Is it possible that a previous technician swapped the connections for these sensors and that the code for the MAP xensor is really reading the other sensor? Do they have the same connector?
At first I thought pump but now I think high pressure sensor because the pressure jumped again to 2200 psi and it was at idle. I don’t know anything but it’s my best guess. Also the cup or cam follower on pump. It’s a little noisy
I am seeing a pattern the computer dont seem to know whats going on not detecting circuit codes never seen a puter go bad in this way but i have seen them throw a random code like your p106 and nothing will remove it not even a reflash and decided it was toast
Try a koer self test. Look into the map sensor more. Re-examine sensors with oil in them to see if it's back. Investigate MAP sensor error. Scope on high pressure fuel system to see if pump is responding to control or control is responding to pump. For parts rifle, I would go with MAP sensor but check scope results b4 buying the HP fuel pump.
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The only thing I know about Ecoboost for 100% certainty is not to buy one. And this video reaffirms my belief.
It's become so common in my job that when I see wonky fuel rail pressures and/or MAP codes, I start checking engine health like vacuum and compression and that often reveals timing chain or other mechanical issues.
MAP codes are very misleading. In other words, "engine isn't running right". Right along the lines of random misfire codes.
It does look like it’s a timing belt huh? What do you think the chances are that it’s stretched, skipped forward/reverse one belt notch, and that’s it? Would timing belt inspection be warranted here as next item to look at?
@@EvzenKovar-i5p Well, timing correlation codes would usually show but an idle vacuum test would also indicate an issue. Have seen mechanical issues with the HP pump cause funny fuel rail pressure readings too. Whenever the HP pump gets erratic activation mechanically, it causes the regulator to go crazy trying to dial in pressure. Ivan is the man and he will figure it out. I'm just keeping the popcorn ready for the next video. LOL
Yeah.. The fuel pump being driven in time by the cam is a huge first check.
Wow I went back and looked numerous times at the 18:08 mark and clearly see arcing between the harness and the middle coil pack!
Someone has a really good eye! Is it really arcing or is it just camera anomalies?
That coil appears to have a crack in it.
That's definitely arcing. I never would have noticed had I not looked in the comments. Never even thought that could happen but that is certainly something I will look out for now.
Or maybe it is just a crack. Watching in higher resolution it looks like the crack is reflecting light at certain angles. idk...
Yep, you are bang on, well spotted. With all the other clicking noises I would imagine it would be very hard to hear it in person.
When Ivan says something is "getting really interesting" I translate that to mean 'it's going to be an even bigger headache!'
Next thing I would check would be something nice to trade in on.
Working for a dealer we've seen several of these 4cyl engines come it with a stuck H.P. fuel pump tappet stuck & chewed up due to lack of service. Oil gums up the tappet allowing the cam lobe to cut a hole in the tappet also wiping out the cam. They can/will run loud causing a stumble or stall issue as well.
Very interesting!
Me is also watching every video from the Netherlands. Very educational and sometimes funny. I really enjoy watching them.
Hallo landgenoot echt geweldig deze man we hebben iemand vergelijkbaar hier robert bosch
Ivan is pretty close to god. He is a very dedicated and brilliant man with an over abundance of being ethical for his customers.
@@hendriediepenbroek5344en diagnose dan. Mede nederlander
@@hendriediepenbroek5344 klopt maar deze man is echt heel erg goed. Zijn filmpjes hebben me al vaker geholpen met dingen waar de vakgarage niet eens uit kwam😅
@@mikefoehr235i agree 1000%
At that mileage it's about time for timing service. Cam lobe under the high pressure pump should be checked along with the roller
Are these direct injection engines?
@@Bryan-Hensley yes
@Bryan-Hensley yes. Obviously.
At this point i recommed a viking funeral as long as the insurance is good
Don't take this the wrong way, I love it when you have to think! GREAT VIDEO!
Me too HAHA!
i smell smoke!!!
@@richardcranium5839 Nah. It's just Ivan's grey matter bubbling.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I know that's right. You are probably saying right now, "Interesting!"
Pull the high pressure fuel pump off and look to see if the follower under it is worn through or the cam shaft lobe is chewed.
And check for metal particles in the fuel and solenoid ports.
Exactly what i was thinking as well.
Was going to suggest this as well. I saw the underside severely worn in another video but I can’t recall who’s and what the symptoms were.
Hi Brent. I asked this before, nobody answered. Back when I was young, carbureted vehicles ran with one fuel pump that ran off an eccentric on the camshaft, just like these high pressure pumps do, so why are two fuel pumps needed at all? Deleting the one in the tank would save a lot per vehicle. Of course, it looks like we will all be driving battery cars pretty soon anyway.
@@JamesAgansI guess because it's really hard to build a high pressure pump that can handle the flow rate, produce high pressure and pull the fuel through the in tank filter, fuel filter and lines. This would probably cause the pressure to drop before the pump and therefore boil the gasoline.
In part 2, you were noting that the signal to the Turbo gate control solenoid was a "PWM" signal. However, you were testing it as an "Analog" signal. As I recall, a "PWM" signal is a cycled voltage as a percentage of time. being a 3 port valve, it has to rapidly cycle from "On" to "Off' or "Open" to "Closed" rapidly to create a varied output to the servo actuator. I believe your scope on the signal would show this. But, the extreme hysteresis of the Dorman component was (is) definitely bad. For PWM to work, the device must work with a very tight "mid-voltage" hysteresis, as the replacement bench test showed. I've learned a lot with these videos. But, sadly, I'm getting too old to use it much. However, I am using this knowledge to teach others. Thanks for the help! TJ
Yea at 18:06 you can see the arc from the #4 wires to the body of #3
That certainly looks like an arc.... HOW did you see that???
That engine sounds pretty cool at 1/4 speed. Something out of Star Wars.
Wow, good eye
At the rate this is going, we should have part 6 in January! Thank you for sharing this series of videos, Ivan.
Had an issue in VAG TDI - it was a sticking fuel rail solenoid. Graphed it and you could see it clearly when comparing commanded vs. actual rail pressure. Symptoms was limp home and the flashing glow plug trouble light.
New OEM and fixed.
The times I’ve seen weird high pressure fuel pump problems is when they were mistimed with the chain😂Great video Ivan
EcoBoost certainly boosts the economy of mechanics working on Fords... 🙂
In UK nick named ecoboom
Where I am the other work vans are Nissan and Mercedes's they have their own series of issues.
One thing I am concerned about is the oil intrusion into the wirung harness. How many other connectors on the wiring harness show engine oil? I woyld check all the connectirs on the wiring harness for oil snd then look at the connectors where afsiled seal may allow oil into the connector and into the wiring harness. This type of failure can lead to control module/sensor failure.
There's so many variables especially when you don't know the repair history as what's aftermarket and what's OEM. Keep plugging away at it. Thanks Ivan!
Oil intrusion in harness could be from oil bleeding from oil pressure sensor bleeding through up wicking into harness, can affect certain circuits
The dreaded Ford mystery code ! This is the nightmare before christmas ! 🌲
Cut across the body and subframe, weld the delivery section to a 2006 Camry front end.
I work for Ford and I have seen a few of the cops underneath the high pressure fuel pump worn over the cam shredded a little bit. This will affect fuel pressure sometimes intermittently. It might be worth just pulling off the high pressure pump and inspecting the cup that rides on the cam and the cam lobe itself. We also have a lot of problems with a low pressure sensor. This will cause a vehicle to die out .
I have a 2.0L EcoBoost in a 2015 Fusion. At about 40,000 miles it started to intermittently stall upon coming to a stop following a hot soak. Started right back up and didn’t repeat. No codes, no clues, and difficult to reproduce. Various forum posts showed I wasn’t alone and suggested replacing the low-pressure and/or high-pressure fuel sensors. Replaced the low-pressure sensor; didn’t help. Replaced the high-pressure sensor; no problems since, about 5 years and 25,000 miles ago.
When it stalled out at 13:30 the graphs were pretty interesting. Also the desired fuel pressure fell and the control solenoid duty cicle was down too. Like it did in on purpose. Evil machine.
It is nothing but admirable to see the persistence you have. I have no doubt that you will win this battle! Honestly if it was me I'd tell the customer to get this heap of trash off my lawn!!!😂
By the way, when Ivan says “we might have to use the scope,” with an implied “oh darn,” what he is really saying is “yahoo! We have to use the scope!” Because Ivan loves him some scope! And I like seeing that.
19:43 do you circumvent the check the device's power/ground and control line integrity based upon fact device seems to deviate normal operations only on rare happening?
22:00 Why not go after the single known code? It's gotta be on your to-do list anyway, right?
online==>
The P0106 trouble code generally means an issue with the MAP circuit having incorrect output range issues or a problem with engine performance. The diagnostic code is set when either the Power Train Control Module (PCM) detects an abnormal signal voltage from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor relating to the current throttle position or engine load or a signal voltage that does not show a good relationship with the MAP sensor.
I KNOW that YOU know but I wanted to refresh myself! So now I'd dig out the scope and ....
Ivan, they circled the problem at the factory! Come on man!
Interesting, i know this car is fixed and long gone, but it is still an interesting diagnosis. As always with these cases, i would try to think through how i would approach it. At this point it is an intermittent stall with only a map sensor code, possibly indicating an engine breathing issue. I would first perform an engine cranking mechanical test with a scope, relative compression vs intake vacuum vs exhaust pulses at the tailpipe vs ignition coil 1 signal. This one test would reveal a lot of data regarding engine health,breathing and timing. Following that i would scope ignition cylinder 1 vs all injector currents (amp clamp) vs rail pressure and intake pressure. I would want to see what are we losing first: injection, railpressure or ignition or all of them? I would also quickly scope all the ignition coils just to make sure we don't have a faulty coil spiking the pcm.
This would be my approach, quick, easy and non invasive. This should provide direction or at least enough data.
Thanks Ivan & merry Xmas to you.
I will be looking forward to the next video in this saga.
There is a reason why i always recommend your shop and videos . Thanks for the videos
i can hear the actual vacuum leak squeal. Boost leak test kit is the secret sauce to turbo cars. My cruze this was a must have in my toolkit. Paid itself a 100 times over.
Whoa, this is one hell of a case study sir!
That pump sounds louder than the one on my 3L diesel.
Thanks, Ivan. I'm looking forward to watching this episode in December and am thinking you had to plan this since earlier this year (May I think) when it happened and save it for a Christmas special. Probably hard to hold off dropping it sooner. Merry Christmas.
Sometimes these case studies really are "slow as Christmas"! I enjoyed the Audi with UFO brakes you did last Christmas. Thanks again!
Ivan, I would say "its not clear" what is wrong with that vehicle. Throwing the scope at it sounds like a good idea! Thanks for Sharing! 🙃🙂
Merry Christmas everyone.
Thank you for all the great videos, Ivan.
I would check the trade-in value next.
i good a good return traded 81 escort for 83 reliant that i drove 100k miles no problems
I bet there's 1000's of similar era fords in the scrapyards because of this fault, and it's inexpensive to fix if you know the problem.
About 350$ at your local wrecking yard
This is a real head scratcher, I am looking forward to seeing the solution.
Being a delivery van, they are driving to a location stopping off/on, next location off/on, etc probably getting very hot
I had a 2019 Ford Focus with the 1.5 ecoboost. It was quick enough, but it just had so many issues from the very start. Stop/Start never worked correctly, weird errors would pop up and then vanish at the next key turn, seemed to be a car that was still in development.
In the UK we call those engines ecoboom
This engine is due for heavier service to begin with. The timing belt, if it's the wet type, will need replacement of both as well as oil pickup tube screen cleaning. Being a non-keyed crank, they are awkward to fix, needing special tools to align the internals as well as buying the special "friction" ring from the dealer for the crank pulley. These throw away vans are more $$$ trouble than they're worth. The HPFP sometimes runs on a "bucket" and that can also wear through. If left long enough and it wears far enough, it damages the cam and then you have REAL trouble. The spark plug feed wires look sloppy and suspiciously fat and crumpled too. They should be uniform and sleek. Someone has definitely been under this hood who wasn't very "pro". By the time people invest $ in "100,000 mile" maintenance, enough things need a rebuild or parts replacement that almost equal the vans value. Like Nissan's with bad CVT's that sit on people's lawns, broken, these vans are in a similar category in that it costs too much to repair for the value you get in return. Engine work is their obvious weak spots.
Two things 1. Read my comment from part 2. 2 The shot where you were looking at the steering wheel & said is that the problem (blue oval) Cheers Ivan for your sanity stay away from turbo engines.
An acquainted had issues with her van. Fuel system three times the fourth time told her very expense and talked her into buying used vehicle which turned out to be bad also and then she had to get something she really didn't care for.
Hey Ivan, in the'80's our shop had an Allen electronic engine analyzer. Used engine vacuum as a diag connection to ck intake pulses to locate valve/timing issues. MAP trying to do the same thing? Seeing an issue? This is a good one! Happy Holidays to you and Amanda!!
"Somethings really wrong here." For real. Thanks Ivan!
Good Morning Ivan.👍. Happy to see the old red Thinktool for this Xmas series. 😅
Maybe the fuel pressure sensor is over reading causing the ECU to back off the fuel pump and the engine stalls out.
I don't believe it's a timing issue because that would be mechanical and that wouldn't fix itself plus your fuel trims would never go back to zero they would always stay off, it wouldn't run as good as it does. I would check the can bucket on the high pressure fuel pump but again that's mechanical if that was worn down you would think it would be consistent so I think you're making the right call on the high pressure fuel pump
Merry Christmas Ivan & Mrs Ivan ! All The Best this Christmas and Very Happy and Healthy New Year
Ivan… Use your scope to look at the signal out of the MAP Sensor. Expect steady with minimal noise. Do you need to do a sensor Re-Learn after replacing the MAP? If you suspect heat soak of the High-Pressure solenoid, use a heat gun to simulate. Possible vacuum leak? Why not connect a dial vacuum gauge to monitor and compare. Does this engine have an EGR valve? Use a long screwdriver in your ear to investigate clicking noises. Why not connect your Amp clamp to the High-Pressure solenoid and monitor with the Scope? If it is acting up, you may see it in the Current Draw.
YEAH... I agree with dmarsden.. there's an arc coming from the coil next to your thumb @ 18:08
and if coil IS arcing it could easily damage the adjacent pump...
Didn't feel a misfire though...and didn't get shocked :D
I think that's just a camera anomoly
It's very unlikely to damage the pump, there's no electronics within it. It's is clearly a bad coil though and will likely be causing misfires.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics don't gloves help protect some?
holy shit how did you spot the arc, i had to watch 5 times to see the little thing
You need to be looking at the detection conditions for triggering the 106 fault code. What has to happen to make the pcm think there is a fault with the sensor. I’m willing to bet it will compare values for the map against boost pressure and baro values.
With the MAP performance code i was thinking "look at the fuel pressure in the freeze frame data" but when you finally did there was no fuel pressure data in the freeze frame. Bummer 🤣😂
When you said what would you check ? The price you can get at the recyclers. 🤣
Merry Christmas!
this is crazy!!
loving this series!!
Had that model high pressure pump was recalled replaced although no issues
I had a 2017 Focus with the 1.0 ecoboost doing something similar to this and it was intermittant at first. Started throwing evap codes, don't remember the specific codes but I couldn't prove the evap solonoid was bad since it was working everytime I checked it. Finally it failed hard and I replaced it. Codes and problem went away. It's gone now, didn't want to wait for Ford to fix the timing belt recall since they still don't have parts after more than a year into the recall. It was replaced with a new Subaru.😊
Do you have a nearby cliff? I have a thought.
Also about the "starter still going when the key isnt turned" that's a feature ford started adding around 2015 or so they call it flick start flick the key to start and back and itll fire it up on its own. Mercedes and FCA (at the time) implemeted that feature to their cars about 5-7 years earlier.
Merry Christmas Ivan!!!
I noticed the fuel rail pressure pid shows 300 psi when high pressure fuel pump is disconnected. It should be the same pressure as the low side when unplugged. This indicates either the high pressure fuel pump is stuck on or your fuel rail pressure sensor is bias high. Just my two cents! Thanks for all the good videos!
"WOW" Ivan what a case study this is turning out to be.... Well off to the store to buy more popcorn. lol lol
Ford transit connect ,made in Turkey to avoid the chicken tax .Ford assembled them in Turkey and shipped them to America with seats and full Glass as a passenger car then removed the glass and interior , that way they avoided the federal chicken tax on light trucks established in the 1960s by president Johnson
Seems very unlikely they came with full glass, the metal in the sides and rear doors is part of the body skin rather than a separate part bonded into place. If you want to fit windows you have to cut the metal out.
@@ferrumignis yeah these have solid metal sides.
I thought the "chicken tax" was only applicable to pickup trucks?
I've never heard of vans having taxes.
The vans are unloaded in Baltimore in a free trade zone. The back seat is taken out and must be destroyed . There is a unique machine on site to do this.
The Sprinters were the same way back in early 2000's. They shipped the completed tubs over and installed the drive train here
Anyone spot the short from the dodgy lead to the coil pack 4th from the left. 1500 ish
I believe you spotted the issue.
Good eye there. At 18:08 you can see it sparking
Looks like it is just superficial.
Good eye brother it's definitely leaking voltage
That’s not high voltage, looks like just reflections
Always interesting videos Ivan 👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
If Ivan looks at you at any point, and is dead serious when he says “time to fire the parts cannon”……hug your wife and kids because the apocalypse is upon us and we must try to enjoy our last moments before the earth explodes. Ending makes me scared Ivan. Will we even make it to Christmas?
My regal has a fuel pump in the tank that was malfunctioning and would cause the high pressure fuel pump to make loud noises. Replaced the pump in the tank and fixed the problem. No codes were shown while this was happening.
Sope it! I learn a lot from watching you battle PHAD
You might want to call in an Exorcist
Maybe the oil in the sensors is causing probems
The oil in coolant sensor ep1 gave it away but unless you've seen this fault it's near impossible to pinpoint.
Definitely a variable...oil does not belong inside a wiring harness LOL!
Tough one Ivan! Current ramp high pressure pump? Can't wait for P4. 😊
In Cummins I've seen oil intrusion literally from oil pressure sensor feed all the way to ECM, VGT and TSS, did not come from turbo, it was crazy
When all else fails with a hot soak problem, check the ethanol content in the fuel.
We'd be seeing constant high fuel trims if there was too much ethanol in the fuel.
The fuel trims bounce around on this, sometimes high positive, sometimes high negative.
@ good point
Columbo would be proud Ivan but this Transit merry go round still has a few more chapters to unfold.
The piston inside the high pressure fuel pump gets stuck in highest position when gets too hot.....this is a known problem
diagnose dan had a problem with heat soak. he gave it a blast of something cold. the car started, then he hit the part with heat it wouldnt start. i always ask the dealer if he uses oem parts and they get pissed off. i know some of them are full of sheeet!
I'd put the pico scope on the high pressure pump solenoid. That spike to 2000psi makes the pump suspect. If that's not it I'd look at the TPS. Sometimes those get hot and intermittent. Very interested to see what you come up with
Thanks for sharing.
Love all the comments suggesting what to do when Ivan's obviously long since solved this. 😆
It's going to get MUCH more interesting :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Bring it on, Dude!
The OE HP fuel pump does have "FoMoCo" and some part numbers on it but I think they're on the front of the pump, on the coil side. Looks like a Bosch as it's made in Germany.
i have seen this many times, the fuel rail pressures i have seen explained by a weak fuel pump that causes all kinds of mysteries.
You know when you need a pump for a pump something isn’t right absolutely ridiculous.
Cycle the key three times in a row and the circuit code will set which is the same as 3 drive cycles
Fix Or Repair Daily never forget
first on race day
@@tomtke7351 Maybe but has to finish first and this would be a DNF for sure
Found On Road Dead.
For Only Real Drivers😄
Found On Road Dead
I would check the voltage feed to the solenoïde and hope it stalls down. . .If the volt is there or not at stall. .
So glad it's you not me!
Look at the coil pack lead next to your thumb 1808 its shorting out.
Far right lead does look mangled and does indeed spark intermittently. Well spotted.
Nope. Trick of the light. Keep watching that spot and a second or two later you can see a spider web hair in the "arc" location. I had to watch it a few times to figure it out. Really does look like a short, but it's not.
@@alafrostyseems kinda "ify"
One thing I have learned from watching Ivan's channel
Most of not all of the diagnostic are a few months old and recently published
One way you can tell is at the end he will say that the vehicle has been running great for months
In other words by the time you make a suggestion the car has been gone for quite a while
@DaveBigDawg u r right, sometimes.... especially these multi-part holiday specials...
I really don't know, but I'm starting to think there might be some kind of pastry build up in the catalytic converter!
In a earlier episode of this series you were checking two sensors that were close by each other, one was the MAP, I think. Is it possible that a previous technician swapped the connections for these sensors and that the code for the MAP xensor is really reading the other sensor? Do they have the same connector?
At first I thought pump but now I think high pressure sensor because the pressure jumped again to 2200 psi and it was at idle. I don’t know anything but it’s my best guess. Also the cup or cam follower on pump. It’s a little noisy
Hi Ivan, ddtsb has a report about coil spiking ECU on vags causing similar faults ,also oil in wiring going to ECU and causing problems.
Check for TSB's software update possibly for these conditions
I am seeing a pattern the computer dont seem to know whats going on not detecting circuit codes never seen a puter go bad in this way but i have seen them throw a random code like your p106 and nothing will remove it not even a reflash and decided it was toast
Carbon on the intake valves can cause low vacuum
Try a koer self test. Look into the map sensor more. Re-examine sensors with oil in them to see if it's back. Investigate MAP sensor error. Scope on high pressure fuel system to see if pump is responding to control or control is responding to pump. For parts rifle, I would go with MAP sensor but check scope results b4 buying the HP fuel pump.
You need to clean all the grounds... 😅