dont cut corners on the machine shop work.. otherwise you just wasted 2 grand for about 3-4 months worth of fun time..you need to have the crank inspected and polished with matching bearings.. unless you know how to use a micrometer, i suggest you take all of your internals with you to the machine shop and let them build the block.. plane the heads. i was going to build a g35 FI but Im going to stay NA with mine. with the right mods and a good tune. I can get 350 at the crank.. plenty enough to spin the tires, get speeding tickets, reel in the punauty..
Mahle pistons with forged eagle rods, a ball hone and hours of cleaning,nissan hr head gaskets and juke or vhr head bolts and HR main bolts, king xp rod and mains, send heads off to local shop to be milled, diy valve lap to clean up valves and seats. Felpro gasket kit from rockautk That right now is the cheapest setup you can get at today's prices. Pistons around $740 shipped with tax, rods $540 shipped. You maybe able to find a combo deal somewhere or close out pricing on some things. But pistons are actually the most expensive part of the bottom end. Top end surprisingly enough happens to be cams which cheapest set is still $800-900 shipped.
I kinda went all out on building mine but i have to agree with you 100% i build these vqs and notice you van go with h beam cast rods they are cheaper and hold up to 800 hp well recommended in keppinh it around 800 also toemi pon cams, pro cams cost to much head work like springs and valves pon cam are drop in ready
Still just gonna LS swap mine. 2k into a v6 to rebuild it or 2k for a fresh machined block. I'm gonna spend a lot more for the swap but I'll have a lot more motor.
Great video very educational. I recently got a rod knock on my VQ. You think I should rebuild or just get another VQ engine? I have a 04 Infiniti G35 coupe
@@flipinfin don't turbo your g35 unless you are going to build the motor for it turbos kill vqs I'm telling you get the vortech 2 sc kit will give ruff 400! hp and is super reliable
Love these videos, I have an 05 Z and am planning on going with the turbonetics kit in the next 6-12 months. Would you recommend buying the tuner kit and other components separately how you did? Or just buy the entire full kit? I'm also trying to save as much money as possible, thank you!
+Ben Holida the full kit comes with a tune witch will save you big but it's a set time no changes for performance I would say no for money I would say yes
CarTech thanks so much, I'm thinking I'll go with the full kit to get around 400whp and then go to a tuner to get all best performance I can out of it. Is this kit fairly reliable? I've been daily driving mine for the past year and a half and was hoping to still be able to drive it often
Well gareth the thing is the full kit comes with small 440cc injectors and a half decent tune and a walbro 255 fuel pump so if the individual wants a better tune and choose their fuel system it is actually the opposite of cheaping out to go the route of the full kit
Right,the parts he had gotten were at a good price and that doesnt mean you will have 500hp,just that the motor now can withstand 500hp, im getting estimates now and i live in Maryland and the estimates i got so far are outrageous,so im going out of this state and right now im waiting on an estimate,i hope they come in at a more reasonable price for what i want!
The HR internals are 80% stronger than the DE from the factory. DE is 400whp safely and HR is easily 500whp and I've seen some up to 600whp with no issues.
So I’d say without cutting corners and having a professional assemble your motor shouldn’t be no more than 4500 to 5000 for a good reliable vq build right?
Thanks CarTech. I love your videos. I have on 08 Sedan, so how much whp do you think the rods can take? or is there a different weak point on the last gen 3.5?
I realize this is an old video but don’t build a motor if your gonna budget it, build it to withstand more than you plan and I suggest sleeving the block if you plan on going past 500hp it’s only 1000$ for darton sleeves plus the install fee depends on what shop you go with. Buy good bearings and studs don’t go with the oem. Why would you put all this money into a motor for something that’s a few hundred could keep it from messing up
what is the easiest way to convert to itbs on the vq35? also is there a way to do it and still pass emissions? i saw an obx itb kit for a little over 1000$ but a lot of people are saying it is a ton of work to get it running.
bret henry tuning alone for itbs on a vq motor will surpass the cost of a basic fi build not to mention the climate where you live has a huge affect as well on itbs. IMO it's a gigantic waste of money for this engine platform
So, with all of this added up, could I just purchase a new short block? Or would you recommend going with a long block? Granted it is a “budget build,” however, if I do pursue this route I would include all of the parts from the first part of the video + a new short or long block, depending.
Oh boy and then you need a stand alone ecu. Turbos with manifolds and set up. And a trans that will hold. A clutch at the least. Then tuning. It costs waaayyyy more that 2 grand lmao
Cool, I'd save an extra 4 or $500 and get the stroker rebuild kit versus the stock rebuild kit. If you're going to do a total rebuild, may as well do it big and have a 4.2 with way more torque, instead of just replicating the stock.
At this price point i honestly think it would be better to just buy a low mileage hr motor. You can get one for just under 2 grand, and im pretty sure they can handle 500 hp on stock internals
Question! I want to do this and want to sit at 450hp. I’m stock and plan on getting a shop to port, resurface and clean then throwing it all together myself. While engine is apart anything else I should plan on replacing. And if I get a turbonetics kit, and slap it on. Is this all I’ll need? Or would I need manifold and headers etc.
+itscrucial it's quite a bit of more money all said and done.. I didn't so it because of the extra few thousand dollars after cams springs retainers ATC..
I see, right sorry I know you said budget. I came across you chanal and love it. I was glancing to see if yo had another video with the potential of all the mods for higher HP. Let me know. Thanks
Yes it will be stronger because after time the engine will lose compression but it’s not going to be over 300 hp it will be stock pretty much. But depending on the how much the engine has been taken care of it won’t make much difference.
CarTech Dang. I was hoping you were doing the assembly as I eventually want to do that myself. Just hoping someone else paved the way. Lol. Either way I look forward to watching your future vids. Keep up the good work.
You want HR rod bolts. Cmon, man, get with the program. You can also just use HR head gasket. Either case, it's a waste of money. Get beefy rods and do it right.
You mentioned high compression builds for an n/a motor and lower for forced induction.I always thought you'd want higher compression for boosted motors like 10:1 or 11:1 compression. Is that wrong?
+dougarnold 10:1 is not all that high and the reason is the higher the compression the more work the motor does and less the turbo does with low compression means more boost and timing which has proven to be safer on the motor and doesn't need extremely high octane to make it not knock
Oh come on can you at least credit your sources on the photos. I'm gonna start watermarking the crap out of my images so people will stop using without giving credit.
Half of this video was essentially an ad for the places that sell these parts, along with stamping right on the pistons themselves. What do you want dude?
EugVR6 no rebuild its cheap , want something cheap go to NeedForSpeed underground 😂🤷♂️ .. want a reliable engine putting down some good numbers? Gonna have to spend over 6k 🤷♂️
Авто/Мото
Also to the novices this is building a VQ to handle around 500hp, that does not mean this set up will produce that power just withstand the power.
joe Doe should be good to around 600 wheel
Lmao right
@@MarksTournaments this build should be better than 500
Thank you for all of your research. I feel much more positive about building my VQ. Great quality and presentation with the video as well.
Ryan Schilling thank you so much! Glad I helped
Thanks bro for giving me the basics
Good info! Keep it up!
+C S thanks really appreciate it
dont cut corners on the machine shop work.. otherwise you just wasted 2 grand for about 3-4 months worth of fun time..you need to have the crank inspected and polished with matching bearings.. unless you know how to use a micrometer, i suggest you take all of your internals with you to the machine shop and let them build the block.. plane the heads. i was going to build a g35 FI but Im going to stay NA with mine. with the right mods and a good tune. I can get 350 at the crank.. plenty enough to spin the tires, get speeding tickets, reel in the punauty..
With what mods ?
GREAT VIDEO BROTHER! LOOKING FORWARD TO MANY MORE.. MICKEYg
+stephen mikesh thanks!
Good Stuff!
Mahle pistons with forged eagle rods, a ball hone and hours of cleaning,nissan hr head gaskets and juke or vhr head bolts and HR main bolts, king xp rod and mains, send heads off to local shop to be milled, diy valve lap to clean up valves and seats. Felpro gasket kit from rockautk That right now is the cheapest setup you can get at today's prices.
Pistons around $740 shipped with tax, rods $540 shipped. You maybe able to find a combo deal somewhere or close out pricing on some things. But pistons are actually the most expensive part of the bottom end. Top end surprisingly enough happens to be cams which cheapest set is still $800-900 shipped.
I kinda went all out on building mine but i have to agree with you 100% i build these vqs and notice you van go with h beam cast rods they are cheaper and hold up to 800 hp well recommended in keppinh it around 800 also toemi pon cams, pro cams cost to much head work like springs and valves pon cam are drop in ready
Did you have to upgrade any of the timing chain/tensioner components? If so, what & how
Still just gonna LS swap mine. 2k into a v6 to rebuild it or 2k for a fresh machined block. I'm gonna spend a lot more for the swap but I'll have a lot more motor.
Well done good sir!
Do I need a short block or can I use a new OEM block?
Get the rotating assembly rebalanced to the new internals. It will work without doing it of course but I wouldn't expect that motor to last very long.
For both hr and de or just which?
What website did u use for the parts?
Thank you for this video. Can you recommend a good comp. ratio for forced induction on a 350z? Thanks in advance.
dougarnold 9.5:1 and under no less the 8.5:1 are the recommended range.
dougarnold 8.8;1
Can this go in a 2010 Maxima as well?
Will this work for the vq35de in the 03 pathfinder also?
Great video very educational.
I recently got a rod knock on my VQ. You think I should rebuild or just get another VQ engine? I have a 04 Infiniti G35 coupe
Another motor
@@brokencarzgarage945 What could be a reasonable price swap? Or how much for a turbo kit?
@@flipinfin don't turbo your g35 unless you are going to build the motor for it turbos kill vqs I'm telling you get the vortech 2 sc kit will give ruff 400! hp and is super reliable
@@tbekingg why not the vortech v3 kit and I agree but we all want that turbo flutter 😍🎶
Derek Bennett the v3 is cool to but budget
Love these videos, I have an 05 Z and am planning on going with the turbonetics kit in the next 6-12 months. Would you recommend buying the tuner kit and other components separately how you did? Or just buy the entire full kit? I'm also trying to save as much money as possible, thank you!
+Ben Holida the full kit comes with a tune witch will save you big but it's a set time no changes for performance I would say no for money I would say yes
CarTech thanks so much, I'm thinking I'll go with the full kit to get around 400whp and then go to a tuner to get all best performance I can out of it. Is this kit fairly reliable? I've been daily driving mine for the past year and a half and was hoping to still be able to drive it often
+Ben Holida yes I would recommend only like 6 psi to be super safe
CarTech thanks so much man it was helpful!!
Well gareth the thing is the full kit comes with small 440cc injectors and a half decent tune and a walbro 255 fuel pump so if the individual wants a better tune and choose their fuel system it is actually the opposite of cheaping out to go the route of the full kit
Hey what if I plan to build a turbo vq? But just 400hp
Just to add a lil info. If you want the parts but broke look up affirm its a car parts loan online basically a monthly payment plan.
How many hours of labor? I cant do this myself
Right,the parts he had gotten were at a good price and that doesnt mean you will have 500hp,just that the motor now can withstand 500hp, im getting estimates now and i live in Maryland and the estimates i got so far are outrageous,so im going out of this state and right now im waiting on an estimate,i hope they come in at a more reasonable price for what i want!
Update ?
This is rated for 500hp. A stock HR on E85 and like 7psi can produce 500ish horsepower
And will blow much sooner lmao
Lowz nah dude u dummy. There’s thousands of these motors rocking 500 and lasting yearssss of abuse
@@TechDude2050 one year with 5k miles 😂
Lowz nah bro u mad trippen. Vq35DE won’t last at all. But the Vq35HR has a forged bottom end from factory. They can handle 500hp on e85 easily
The HR internals are 80% stronger than the DE from the factory. DE is 400whp safely and HR is easily 500whp and I've seen some up to 600whp with no issues.
What was the total??
So I’d say without cutting corners and having a professional assemble your motor shouldn’t be no more than 4500 to 5000 for a good reliable vq build right?
I would say now a days that’s more than reasonable
The stock rods can withstand up to 400whp? or 400 crank hp?
Thats crank hp!
Thanks CarTech. I love your videos. I have on 08 Sedan, so how much whp do you think the rods can take? or is there a different weak point on the last gen 3.5?
+Matthew Fincher it's the sedan so it's the hr motor it will hold 500 easy.. seen it pushed 600 for months
+Matthew Fincher thanks a lot for the support as well!!!
not that i know of here 03-04 its advised to not push past 400 and 05-06 they say 450
If it's a sedan g35 then it DOES have the HR motor. If it's a maxima or altima then it's just a regular de.
Yes sedan is hr coupe is not
I realize this is an old video but don’t build a motor if your gonna budget it, build it to withstand more than you plan and I suggest sleeving the block if you plan on going past 500hp it’s only 1000$ for darton sleeves plus the install fee depends on what shop you go with. Buy good bearings and studs don’t go with the oem. Why would you put all this money into a motor for something that’s a few hundred could keep it from messing up
You can make like 600 on a stock block stock everything with a vq35hr de is only good for like 450
What kind of issues will you run into when boosting a vq35hr?
Anything is possible
Fasting Media I’m sure on a stock motor you would only be able to safely do 4-5 psi w/o issues
Links would be nice
what is the easiest way to convert to itbs on the vq35? also is there a way to do it and still pass emissions? i saw an obx itb kit for a little over 1000$ but a lot of people are saying it is a ton of work to get it running.
+bret henry where I live it won't pass emissions legally. And not sure what the easiest ways is I have not looked that deep into them
+bret henry I wouldn't recommend it at all haha as cool as they are
bret henry tuning alone for itbs on a vq motor will surpass the cost of a basic fi build not to mention the climate where you live has a huge affect as well on itbs. IMO it's a gigantic waste of money for this engine platform
+jaysab24 got it, thanks for the reply.
agreed
How much would stock be good for?
You'd be lucky if it didn't blow at 400-450hp
So, with all of this added up, could I just purchase a new short block? Or would you recommend going with a long block? Granted it is a “budget build,” however, if I do pursue this route I would include all of the parts from the first part of the video + a new short or long block, depending.
Did you end up doing that?
So with a forced induction build, you dont need new valves or springs?
Nope
Tyler Lesko not unless you wanna throw a fat cam in the mix too.lol
Oh boy and then you need a stand alone ecu. Turbos with manifolds and set up. And a trans that will hold. A clutch at the least. Then tuning. It costs waaayyyy more that 2 grand lmao
Cool, I'd save an extra 4 or $500 and get the stroker rebuild kit versus the stock rebuild kit. If you're going to do a total rebuild, may as well do it big and have a 4.2 with way more torque, instead of just replicating the stock.
+Nate TheDaddy it's a lot more than that you need a new crank and all
At this price point i honestly think it would be better to just buy a low mileage hr motor. You can get one for just under 2 grand, and im pretty sure they can handle 500 hp on stock internals
You're a dumb fuck
Yes they can but again the hr will have to be mapped correctly. But typically hr engines can handle 500bhp
are u saying de to hr swap because its a hard swap i heard people saying its cheaper to swap a ls in it.
@@balakays550 a have a vq35hr in my 5th gen maxima.not a hard swap at all.
Links would be nice
Question!
I want to do this and want to sit at 450hp. I’m stock and plan on getting a shop to port, resurface and clean then throwing it all together myself.
While engine is apart anything else I should plan on replacing. And if I get a turbonetics kit, and slap it on. Is this all I’ll need? Or would I need manifold and headers etc.
Add 3k for a cheap turbo kit and $600 for fuel etc
3k ? Lmao save ur money and get a 5k vortec supercharger fits 03-07 sedans and coupes
Its calked crosshatch. Not scoring.
i show this to mechanic.. he said you do it yourself. 😂
What you mean
Oh lol I read that incorrectly. Yeah you need a machine shop
Nice info bro, thanks. Would how about a better cam?
+itscrucial it's quite a bit of more money all said and done.. I didn't so it because of the extra few thousand dollars after cams springs retainers ATC..
I see, right sorry I know you said budget. I came across you chanal and love it. I was glancing to see if yo had another video with the potential of all the mods for higher HP. Let me know. Thanks
+itscrucial what do you mean by your question I'll be happy to make it just need a bit more detail please
hello man i have a 04 vq35de, it has almost 200k miles, if i replace pistons and rods, is this gonna help the engine to run stronger?
Yes it will be stronger because after time the engine will lose compression but it’s not going to be over 300 hp it will be stock pretty much. But depending on the how much the engine has been taken care of it won’t make much difference.
Are you building your own motor? If so, are you going to make a video of the process?
+HumberGarcia I am not assembling unfortunately but I will make a video saying stuff I ran into
CarTech Dang. I was hoping you were doing the assembly as I eventually want to do that myself. Just hoping someone else paved the way. Lol. Either way I look forward to watching your future vids. Keep up the good work.
+HumberGarcia I have been a part of the build quite a bit though any questions?
Plz do vq37vhr
You added 2 sets of head bolts to your price. The stock and the Juke.
Zachary Kaufman no he added the main bolts and head bolts.
Think this will take a 300 shot of nitrous?🤔
Easy
You want HR rod bolts. Cmon, man, get with the program. You can also just use HR head gasket. Either case, it's a waste of money. Get beefy rods and do it right.
You mentioned high compression builds for an n/a motor and lower for forced induction.I always thought you'd want higher compression for boosted motors like 10:1 or 11:1 compression. Is that wrong?
+dougarnold 10:1 is not all that high and the reason is the higher the compression the more work the motor does and less the turbo does with low compression means more boost and timing which has proven to be safer on the motor and doesn't need extremely high octane to make it not knock
CarTech So 8:1 might be good to tune for an e85 build running higher boost..correct?
+dougarnold e85 is always better but yes great gains
This would be 10k unless you did it yourself with over 20k in tools, Nissan quoted me over 5k for a stock flywheel, part & labor😢
its not nder $2000 bucks if you live in canada. thats easily $4000 bucks.
🙃🙃🙃🙃
that was fast
Save your money and get a dry sleeves installed
Oh come on can you at least credit your sources on the photos. I'm gonna start watermarking the crap out of my images so people will stop using without giving credit.
Half of this video was essentially an ad for the places that sell these parts, along with stamping right on the pistons themselves. What do you want dude?
Do your maths again
The head gaskets were each to start with
Do your Englishes
If you build a 500hp engine, I promise you it won't be cheap.
Ha cheap
Hmmmm.....500hp out of VQ!....thousands so it wont be cheap and if its cheap, it wont be reliable hp.
EugVR6 no rebuild its cheap , want something cheap go to NeedForSpeed underground 😂🤷♂️ .. want a reliable engine putting down some good numbers? Gonna have to spend over 6k 🤷♂️