Thank you very much just went thru my first power outage in the campground and wanted to be sure mu unit had swutched back to shore not on lp thanks again
So does the fridge work off 120v with the plug in the back panel?Can I take the plug out of the receptacle in the back and plug it straight into my house?my camper is plugged into the house but the fridge is not going to ac power just gas
It has the option for electric or gas. If it is not working on electric at the moment, take a phone charger and check the receptacle that the refer is plugged into in the back. If the outlet has power and charges your phone, then plugging the fridge into your house will not fix the issue. You would have to further diagnose, it could be the 110 glass fuse on the board, the heating elements or the board itself. If the outlet does not work then you would have to check your 110 breaker inside the camper and trace the wire from there if the breaker is not faulted. Just a side note you cannot only plug in the fridge and not your camper and expect it all to operate for a long period, you also need 12 volts to operate the circuit board. This comes from the battery and without the camper plugged in the battery will eventually die, due to the converter not charging it.
@@GreatAmericanRV gotcha all the information you said really helps me out a lot I will begin with the phone charger step and check everything you said after as well thank you very much for getting back to me
If your unit is level then the fridge will be level. It's critical to the degree that if you feel your unit is off level when you are walking in it then your fridge probably isn't level and has the potential to have an issue. The issue is that the coils on the back of the fridge are in a zig-zag slanted position, if the unit is not level then it has the potential for flow to be disrupted by air pockets that get lodged and cause a blockage of flow. So while we aren't talking super duper level, it needs to be fairly close. Hope this helped answer your question. -Todd
My thermistor does not 'travel' along with the plastic slider from bottom to top. It simply pulls out of the adjustment slider as I attempt to adjust it up from rock bottom. It does not have any slack, can I pull some slack though the grommet so it can reach the full sliding range? Also, approximately where within the slider is the thermistor supposed to sit and should it stay in one spot within the plastic slider as you adjust? if so, glue it , tape it, or?
This usually happens due to condensation. Causes can be from opening and closing the fridge too often, putting items in that are not pre-cooled or hot, and also if the temps on the interior of the RV are hot or humid. So a few tips are reducing the amount of times the doors are opened or how long they are opened, taking items and cooling them in an ice chest or your fridge at home before putting them in the rv fridge and lastly having your a/c set at a reasonable temp. You can also try leaving a 1-2 inch gap between items and the back wall so air can circulate better, there are no fans to circulate the air on it's own. They do make little battery powered fans you can put in there that can help as well. 1-5 setting is going to be based on how cold you want your food kept but if you have it set on 5 and some of those conditions exit that create more condensation then you will definitely get ice on the fins. -Todd
Putting everything in a refrigerator at home before putting it in your fridge or help it stay cool, vs putting room temp or just cool food in there from the start. Leave a 1 inch gap on the back of the fridge wall so air can flow properly. Adjust the thermostat to the lowest setting.
Can I drive with the fridge on in my motorhome? If I keep it on auto and turn off the propane valve, I assume it will just stick with electric and maintain the temperature or at least slow down the heating up process enough to get to your next destination? And I'd assume the driving would keep the battery alive.
You would have to have the generator running in order to have 110 for the fridge. It will not function off of 12 volts alone. Propane or 110 volts are your options. There is a debate on the safety of running propane while traveling. The link below has a great article that discusses more about traveling with the fridge on propane. www.stresslesscamping.com/blog/2021/5/25/should-i-drive-or-tow-with-my-rv-refrigerator-on?format=amp
You need to check the flue tube. Let the unit be in a cool state by having the unit off for a few hours. You would have to remove the shield for the LP flame then remove the line from the gas valve. Once you have access to the tube that the flame burns below (flue tube) you’re going to blow compressed air up the tube. Could have a nest build in there blocking the heat from circulating. This guy does a pretty good video on it. Start at about 4:44 on his video. ruclips.net/video/zxtySoqFAYI/видео.htmlsi=GHLEIP1yJHU5qtB6&t=279
You still have to have 12 volts to it in order for it to operate. Also you would want it in a cabinet that is insulated all around and still allow the cooling unit on the back to vent out. So it’s doable, but I’m sure there is better options. -Todd
@@GreatAmericanRV wow. Thanks for the prompt response. I came across this refrigerator for $150. The true “propane” refrigerators cost significantly more. Why do you say it has to be insulated?
@@Devoneakapimp without proper insulation it will not cool down enough depending on ambient temp. There is no compressor like a normal fridge, it is an absorbent-ion unit on the back so it pulls the heat out of the ice box. It doesn’t actually produce cool air. Good chance you will get too much humidity. For that price it’s worth a shot. But battery will have to be changed constantly or have a charger. Which if you have that then you have 110 so you could just use the 110 plug in for the fridge as well rather than constantly changing propane tanks too. Many options.
@@GreatAmericanRV very interesting. I’m moving off grid in as little as a week. No idea how I’m going to refrigerate food without running a generator 24/7. Hence, this refrigerator situation. Needing a constantly charged battery means back to the drawing board. Ughhhhh!!
I have one of those fridges and it won’t get cold at all and everything works but just not getting cold instead it get extremely hot my fridge is about 15+yrs old I still have all the paperwork from the previous owner and has lifetime warranty! But I think it’s expired what to do I need my fridge
By saying everything works, I can only assume you mean that it lights on propane and you have a good flame and when on electric that the heating elements are heating up and working properly. There is no flashing lights on the top control board inside? If that is the case, it could very well be the cooling unit that is bad. You would need to bring it to a shop to confirm. Then they would have to remove the fridge and replace the cooling unit on the back.
I'm going to ask for a little more specifics. Will the fridge keypad up top or light on the inside turn on at all? When you say no power and you begin to talk about fuses, I am assuming you are referring to 12 volts. So if so, we need to check on the back of the fridge to verify if we are getting 12 volts to the board. If you go to 3:20 mark on the fridge you will see below the black cover and to the right a terminal block with some wires going to it. If you have a meter or a test light you need to check for 12 volts there. If you don't have it there, then you have an issue inline between the fuse panel and the fridge (assuming your battery is charged and putting out 12 volts). If you do have 12 volts at the terminal then you it could be a board issue. With a little more info, I may be able to get you some more advice, but that's as far as I can get without some of that answered. -Todd
My Domatic will only run on ele and not flip over to propane. Lost everything in my refrigerator when park turned off ele when I was gone from camper a few days.
Ive lived in my camper almost 2 years My frig started sounding like air is leaking. I have never heard that noise before. About 2 weeks ago i defrosted the freezer. Nothing unusual. It still seems to be cooling just not sure what the problem is or is it going to be a problem soon? Its not a clanking sound, just sounds like its losing air.
@@GreatAmericanRV it's hooked up to electric. I can hear what sounds like air leaking. It's still cooling right now, I just think it's going out now. This is the first I've heard it. Thanks for responding.
@@Whereempathsgather ok, do you age the propane tanks on? Do you happen to smell gas? If so need to shut the propane down immediately and have a leak test done before using gas anymore. Beyond that the cooling unit is a sealed pressurized unit, it can very well be leaking, generally you would begin to see a yellow residue leaking out.
Your so nice to get back with me. No propane, no smell. I just have electric. I've only used propane once till it ran out. I took everything out of the freezer. I thought I had enough space, not packed in. There might have been to much in there. I just went to store. It appears to still be freezing for now. That sound was crazy. I would think I would see residue some where. I tried to get the plate off the out side but I can't open it 😄 it's a older camper. Since it seems to be working now and the noise stopped. Let's see what happens. The air noise, it was hissing, was my concern. It just sounded like air leaking. I normally don't hear any noise at all. Thanks!
If it is not a residential fridge, which if it’s Dometic, norcold or Furrion etc. then yes it will need a charged battery or be plugged in to electrical 110 volt at a site to have the converter running and charging the battery. The circuit board that controls it is all 12 volts. So whether you are on propane or 110 is still needs that battery power to tell it what to do. -Todd
The only drain line is in the lower box below the silver cooling fins. You can put an air hose in from the inside and blow it out. If it’s leaking at the freezer there is no drain line there and you just need to defrost and remove the water.
Sorry we didn’t get everything covered for you. What’s your question in regards to setting temperature? Do you have the push buttons 1-5 or the slide on the fins?
I bought an older camper n these are the set up buttons n I can't get it to start. It does have gas or electric option. Can you plz let me know what to check. It's a RM 761 gas electric fridge
Checking to make sure you have a good 12 volts at the fridge is step number one. If nothing will power up then that’s the first issue. Is it a new fridge?
I have watched probably 30 different videos on how to use my RV refrigerator/freezer but not a single one of them ever mentions the on off switch that is located between the freezer door and the refrigerator door. I have no idea what in the world this operates, and apparently I have the only refrigerator on the planet that has one because nobody ever references it. Can anybody help clue me in please?
Yes sir, not a commonly talked about feature, sorry we didn’t include it in the video. It controls a 12-volt heat tape behind the metal frame around the refrigerator and freezer doors. If you have hot or humid weather this will keep the doors frame from sweating due to condensation from the humidity. -Todd
Thank you, Todd! I have looked high and low for this answer without success until now. I'm grateful to you sir. One more quick question, should I leave the switch to the off position unless one or both of those conditions exist? Will it being in the on position increase the heat output in my exhaust flue space? Thanks again! GaryM
@@garym4956 not a problem happy to provide the info!! It works off of 12 volts and will only emit heat to your doors. This will have no effect anywhere else on the unit. It won’t hurt to have it on even if the conditions don’t exist, but of course it will limit the life to the heat strip having it on all the time. -Todd Give us a follow, we have plenty more RV info posting everyday. And always here to answer questions.
My gas and electric light keeps blinking I can’t find nowhere on what to do. Please help I check all the usual stuff I once saw a video of how to reset it it n lost it. Anyone have ideas?
Do you have the button to choose the temperature setting or a sliding piece on the fins located in the fridge box? If you have the buttons what is it set at. If you have the fin slider, is it slid to the bottom or top? Lastly are you leaving a 1 inch gap at the back of the fridge for air to circulate?
Sir mine domentic fridge has the slider that goes up and down to control temperature. My problem is the wire is short and only allows the slider to go up about half way for cooling temp , what can i do for this ? @GreatAmericanRV
Sorry we aren’t perfect, but we are available to answer any questions you have, just as we have with other comments. See our reply to your other comment about temperature.
Great question! It controls a 12-volt heat tape behind the metal frame around the refrigerator and freezer doors. If you have hot or humid weather this will keep the doors frame from sweating due to condensation from the humidity. -Todd
Solved my problem. Thanks for the great video!
Awesome thanks for the feedback! -Todd
Thank you very much just went thru my first power outage in the campground and wanted to be sure mu unit had swutched back to shore not on lp thanks again
Awesome!! Glad we could help. Hope you hit that like and subscribe button!!! -Todd
great tips well explained fabulous presentor
Great video!
Thanks for the feedback!!!
So does the fridge work off 120v with the plug in the back panel?Can I take the plug out of the receptacle in the back and plug it straight into my house?my camper is plugged into the house but the fridge is not going to ac power just gas
It has the option for electric or gas. If it is not working on electric at the moment, take a phone charger and check the receptacle that the refer is plugged into in the back. If the outlet has power and charges your phone, then plugging the fridge into your house will not fix the issue. You would have to further diagnose, it could be the 110 glass fuse on the board, the heating elements or the board itself.
If the outlet does not work then you would have to check your 110 breaker inside the camper and trace the wire from there if the breaker is not faulted.
Just a side note you cannot only plug in the fridge and not your camper and expect it all to operate for a long period, you also need 12 volts to operate the circuit board. This comes from the battery and without the camper plugged in the battery will eventually die, due to the converter not charging it.
@@GreatAmericanRV gotcha all the information you said really helps me out a lot I will begin with the phone charger step and check everything you said after as well thank you very much for getting back to me
@@dean1627 happy to help good luck!
It is important that the refrigerator is level.
Where on the refrigerator do you set a bubble level?
If your unit is level then the fridge will be level. It's critical to the degree that if you feel your unit is off level when you are walking in it then your fridge probably isn't level and has the potential to have an issue. The issue is that the coils on the back of the fridge are in a zig-zag slanted position, if the unit is not level then it has the potential for flow to be disrupted by air pockets that get lodged and cause a blockage of flow. So while we aren't talking super duper level, it needs to be fairly close. Hope this helped answer your question. -Todd
My thermistor does not 'travel' along with the plastic slider from bottom to top. It simply pulls out of the adjustment slider as I attempt to adjust it up from rock bottom. It does not have any slack, can I pull some slack though the grommet so it can reach the full sliding range? Also, approximately where within the slider is the thermistor supposed to sit and should it stay in one spot within the plastic slider as you adjust? if so, glue it , tape it, or?
@@charlesgoede2809 what is your model number?
Is it normal to have frost build-up on fins? How do I decide which setting (1-5) is best for coolness and efficiency. Thanks
This usually happens due to condensation. Causes can be from opening and closing the fridge too often, putting items in that are not pre-cooled or hot, and also if the temps on the interior of the RV are hot or humid. So a few tips are reducing the amount of times the doors are opened or how long they are opened, taking items and cooling them in an ice chest or your fridge at home before putting them in the rv fridge and lastly having your a/c set at a reasonable temp. You can also try leaving a 1-2 inch gap between items and the back wall so air can circulate better, there are no fans to circulate the air on it's own. They do make little battery powered fans you can put in there that can help as well. 1-5 setting is going to be based on how cold you want your food kept but if you have it set on 5 and some of those conditions exit that create more condensation then you will definitely get ice on the fins. -Todd
Noticed at end of video you had 2 lights on the fridge !! Was there a problem?
Mixture of clips, the unit was not in auto mode in the previous scene then in auto mode for the closing scene. -Todd
Is there any tips you have for helping your fridge cool
Down faster? Our fridge is at 44 and is holding steady at that temp.
Putting everything in a refrigerator at home before putting it in your fridge or help it stay cool, vs putting room temp or just cool food in there from the start. Leave a 1 inch gap on the back of the fridge wall so air can flow properly. Adjust the thermostat to the lowest setting.
All that and you didn't show how to adjust thermostat.
Can I drive with the fridge on in my motorhome? If I keep it on auto and turn off the propane valve, I assume it will just stick with electric and maintain the temperature or at least slow down the heating up process enough to get to your next destination? And I'd assume the driving would keep the battery alive.
You would have to have the generator running in order to have 110 for the fridge. It will not function off of 12 volts alone. Propane or 110 volts are your options. There is a debate on the safety of running propane while traveling. The link below has a great article that discusses more about traveling with the fridge on propane.
www.stresslesscamping.com/blog/2021/5/25/should-i-drive-or-tow-with-my-rv-refrigerator-on?format=amp
@@GreatAmericanRV ok thanks
My Dometic model RM8501 fails to cool in gas mode even thogh the flame is lit. Works fine in 120 volt mode.
You need to check the flue tube. Let the unit be in a cool state by having the unit off for a few hours. You would have to remove the shield for the LP flame then remove the line from the gas valve. Once you have access to the tube that the flame burns below (flue tube) you’re going to blow compressed air up the tube. Could have a nest build in there blocking the heat from circulating. This guy does a pretty good video on it. Start at about 4:44 on his video.
ruclips.net/video/zxtySoqFAYI/видео.htmlsi=GHLEIP1yJHU5qtB6&t=279
Is there any way to run this refrigerator on 110 only with no propane connected?
Yes, as long as you have 12 volts and 110 going to the fridge, it will operate. Just take it off of auto and it will never try to swap. -Todd
Can I use this unit outside of an rv in a shed and connect it to a propane tank?
Is it as simple as connecting it to a propane tank?
You still have to have 12 volts to it in order for it to operate. Also you would want it in a cabinet that is insulated all around and still allow the cooling unit on the back to vent out. So it’s doable, but I’m sure there is better options. -Todd
@@GreatAmericanRV wow. Thanks for the prompt response. I came across this refrigerator for $150. The true “propane” refrigerators cost significantly more.
Why do you say it has to be insulated?
@@Devoneakapimp without proper insulation it will not cool down enough depending on ambient temp. There is no compressor like a normal fridge, it is an absorbent-ion unit on the back so it pulls the heat out of the ice box. It doesn’t actually produce cool air. Good chance you will get too much humidity. For that price it’s worth a shot. But battery will have to be changed constantly or have a charger. Which if you have that then you have 110 so you could just use the 110 plug in for the fridge as well rather than constantly changing propane tanks too. Many options.
@@GreatAmericanRV very interesting. I’m moving off grid in as little as a week. No idea how I’m going to refrigerate food without running a generator 24/7.
Hence, this refrigerator situation.
Needing a constantly charged battery means back to the drawing board.
Ughhhhh!!
@@Devoneakapimp good luck!
I have one of those fridges and it won’t get cold at all and everything works but just not getting cold instead it get extremely hot my fridge is about 15+yrs old I still have all the paperwork from the previous owner and has lifetime warranty! But I think it’s expired what to do I need my fridge
By saying everything works, I can only assume you mean that it lights on propane and you have a good flame and when on electric that the heating elements are heating up and working properly. There is no flashing lights on the top control board inside? If that is the case, it could very well be the cooling unit that is bad. You would need to bring it to a shop to confirm. Then they would have to remove the fridge and replace the cooling unit on the back.
2008 Cesar Creek fridge is not getting power. Fuses are both fine inside and the busse fuse outside. What else can I check?
I'm going to ask for a little more specifics. Will the fridge keypad up top or light on the inside turn on at all? When you say no power and you begin to talk about fuses, I am assuming you are referring to 12 volts. So if so, we need to check on the back of the fridge to verify if we are getting 12 volts to the board. If you go to 3:20 mark on the fridge you will see below the black cover and to the right a terminal block with some wires going to it. If you have a meter or a test light you need to check for 12 volts there. If you don't have it there, then you have an issue inline between the fuse panel and the fridge (assuming your battery is charged and putting out 12 volts). If you do have 12 volts at the terminal then you it could be a board issue. With a little more info, I may be able to get you some more advice, but that's as far as I can get without some of that answered.
-Todd
My Domatic will only run on ele and not flip over to propane. Lost everything in my refrigerator when park turned off ele when I was gone from camper a few days.
Do you hear it trying to ignite if you manual swap it to propane?
I have the exact opposite issue, will only run in gas not electric lost everything and I can't figure out what's wrong
Ive lived in my camper almost 2 years
My frig started sounding like air is leaking. I have never heard that noise before. About 2 weeks ago i defrosted the freezer. Nothing unusual. It still seems to be cooling just not sure what the problem is or is it going to be a problem soon? Its not a clanking sound, just sounds like its losing air.
Like a hissing noise? Is it working on propane or electric?
@@GreatAmericanRV it's hooked up to electric. I can hear what sounds like air leaking. It's still cooling right now, I just think it's going out now. This is the first I've heard it. Thanks for responding.
@@GreatAmericanRV I can hear it out side. It's louder out side.
@@Whereempathsgather ok, do you age the propane tanks on? Do you happen to smell gas? If so need to shut the propane down immediately and have a leak test done before using gas anymore.
Beyond that the cooling unit is a sealed pressurized unit, it can very well be leaking, generally you would begin to see a yellow residue leaking out.
Your so nice to get back with me. No propane, no smell. I just have electric. I've only used propane once till it ran out.
I took everything out of the freezer. I thought I had enough space, not packed in. There might have been to much in there. I just went to store.
It appears to still be freezing for now. That sound was crazy. I would think I would see residue some where. I tried to get the plate off the out side but I can't open it 😄 it's a older camper.
Since it seems to be working now and the noise stopped. Let's see what happens. The air noise, it was hissing, was my concern. It just sounded like air leaking. I normally don't hear any noise at all. Thanks!
Does it have to have a charged battery on to run fridge on 110
If it is not a residential fridge, which if it’s Dometic, norcold or Furrion etc. then yes it will need a charged battery or be plugged in to electrical 110 volt at a site to have the converter running and charging the battery. The circuit board that controls it is all 12 volts. So whether you are on propane or 110 is still needs that battery power to tell it what to do.
-Todd
What about the Slide control?
Are you referring to the slide control thats on the fins inside the fridge?
How do I blow out the refrigerator lines? It’s leaking inside.
The only drain line is in the lower box below the silver cooling fins. You can put an air hose in from the inside and blow it out. If it’s leaking at the freezer there is no drain line there and you just need to defrost and remove the water.
I want to know how the fins are supposed to look. Nothing about that, nothing in the manual, under operating instructions.
Love to answer your question, can you elaborate a little bit so I'm sure to answer it correctly. Did you mean work or look?
God bless
The important tip would be adjusting the temperature.
Sorry we didn’t get everything covered for you. What’s your question in regards to setting temperature? Do you have the push buttons 1-5 or the slide on the fins?
I can't find any temp adjustment on ours
@@donreynolds66 what is the model of your fridge?
I bought an older camper n these are the set up buttons n I can't get it to start. It does have gas or electric option. Can you plz let me know what to check. It's a RM 761 gas electric fridge
@@GreatAmericanRVCan I connect the refrigerator to a direct 110V extension
Replaced a RM2652 with aDM2672 new unit won’t turn on… any suggestions?
Checking to make sure you have a good 12 volts at the fridge is step number one. If nothing will power up then that’s the first issue. Is it a new fridge?
@@GreatAmericanRV yes right out of the box
@@GreatAmericanRV thank you for taking the time to help👍
@@danobrien8295 yep definitely start with the 12 volt then. Happy to help if you have any other questions.
@@GreatAmericanRV thank you so much👍
Is the 110 or 12 volts that activates the igniter?
The controller which is 12 volt controlled is what activates the ignitor. -Todd
The panel on the refrigerator does'nt light up!
@@Bill-e6v is the fridge still operating and cooling? If so then likely a bad eyebrow board. -Todd
I have watched probably 30 different videos on how to use my RV refrigerator/freezer but not a single one of them ever mentions the on off switch that is located between the freezer door and the refrigerator door. I have no idea what in the world this operates, and apparently I have the only refrigerator on the planet that has one because nobody ever references it. Can anybody help clue me in please?
Yes sir, not a commonly talked about feature, sorry we didn’t include it in the video. It controls a 12-volt heat tape behind the metal frame around the refrigerator and freezer doors. If you have hot or humid weather this will keep the doors frame from sweating due to condensation from the humidity. -Todd
Thank you, Todd! I have looked high and low for this answer without success until now. I'm grateful to you sir. One more quick question, should I leave the switch to the off position unless one or both of those conditions exist? Will it being in the on position increase the heat output in my exhaust flue space? Thanks again! GaryM
@@garym4956 not a problem happy to provide the info!! It works off of 12 volts and will only emit heat to your doors. This will have no effect anywhere else on the unit. It won’t hurt to have it on even if the conditions don’t exist, but of course it will limit the life to the heat strip having it on all the time. -Todd
Give us a follow, we have plenty more RV info posting everyday. And always here to answer questions.
My gas and electric light keeps blinking I can’t find nowhere on what to do. Please help
I check all the usual stuff I once saw a video of how to reset it it n lost it. Anyone have ideas?
@@JVlife22 do you have a model of the refrigerator?
My fridge is freezing everything
Do you have the button to choose the temperature setting or a sliding piece on the fins located in the fridge box? If you have the buttons what is it set at. If you have the fin slider, is it slid to the bottom or top?
Lastly are you leaving a 1 inch gap at the back of the fridge for air to circulate?
Sir mine domentic fridge has the slider that goes up and down to control temperature. My problem is the wire is short and only allows the slider to go up about half way for cooling temp , what can i do for this ? @GreatAmericanRV
Good luck running the fridge on electric without propane
You don’t need propane to run the unit on 110 electric.
👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
Sorry we aren’t perfect, but we are available to answer any questions you have, just as we have with other comments. See our reply to your other comment about temperature.
My fridge has a switch in the door frame area along the top door it says auto climate control on/off what does that mean
Great question! It controls a 12-volt heat tape behind the metal frame around the refrigerator and freezer doors. If you have hot or humid weather this will keep the doors frame from sweating due to condensation from the humidity. -Todd