That young apprentice is one lucky dude. You'd be hard pressed to find a better teacher in the art and science of building muscle car engines. It's like hitting the lottery jackpot of training and development.
Holy moly does it get any better, it almost brings tears to your eyes....or maybe it does❕ this kid knows how lucky he is, obviously ....I am envious‼️®™️
Nicks garage a place to learn and enjoy engine building from a true pro with over years of experience..........Vasilis you are fortunate to learn from NICK.
Johnny, U are absolutely right, & if I may add, what makes the shop even more interesting is the people whom hang around there. Yepp, Vasilis is in great hands !!!
The freeze plug story is an old wives tale. The holes are there to support the sand structure that forms the water jacket during lost foam casting. I’ve seen several blocks split open with the core plugs still in place.
If I made help educate, the brass plugs are actually to remove the sand from the black after its cast. If a plug pops out because someone forgot to add Prestone, other parts of the block could have already cracked before a "freeze" plugs let's go. And the bright yellow was Sebring Yellow, and the Rallye 350 was a sales failure, the yellow didn't work nearly as well as the Carousel Red (Chevy engine block orange!) on the 1st GTO Judges... Many of the Rallye 350's were re-painted to get them off the dealer lot. Same problem Rambler had with the Rebel Machine and Rambler American Hurst S/C 390. Mopar did great with the Big Bad Color palet, except the Panther Pink lol... But back to the video...
That guy is so Lucky to have somebody like Nick teach him how to do that Nick is a dying breed old V8,s is how I learned.But now everything is computers 😳
6: 40 They are not freeze plugs to protect the engine if the coolant freezes. They are called core plugs from sand casting when the block is made. They will not protect the block if it freezes.
mansonmydog. I have seen core plugs pop out when in some cases you are lucky when it freezes, but you are correct, I also seen cylinder heads and blocks cracked in different places, due to freezing. I also mentioned it in the video that the casting sand comes out of these holes, but was cut out to shorten the video for RUclips. It takes hours to film and editing. Yes you are correct, they do call them "core plugs" Thanks for watching.
mansonmydog you are correct that that are from the casting so the casting sand can release from inside the newly cast block. I do believe that it was an unintentional benefit in colder climates that they will pop first if the water freezes but would only allow for ice pressure relief close to the plug. I am sure there have been cases where a core plug has prevented a block from cracking when it froze, but definitely not why they exist.
I had a 72 Cutlass with a 180 HP 30 rocket I rebuild it with basic upgrades. Higher compression piston, bored .030 over, Bigger cam, aftermarket intake, Edelbrock carb, HEI. and a stall converter. It felt healthy and fun. I never ported the heads though. wish I would have. It may have made a significant difference.
Nick, once your channel gets around, I hope your subs goes thru the roof! You just came up on my recommended vids to watch and I'm so glad I did. Awesome work. I'm an old guy too,. but never could do what you are doing now, but remember the days of dwell and points and carb settings..
Great job guys love your channel and your work. I'm among one of the lucky ones who had the chance to visit your shop! Keep the videos coming cause we love to learn.
Thanks for dropping by the shop. It can be a popular spot, some guys forget to leave once they see what goes on in the shop. Especially on a sunny summer day. Cars and engines as far as the eye can see.
What a great channel, you guys are doing some awesome work! Looks like a great bunch of guys you have there too, Nick. That was a "Motor" manual I just saw. I used to have a bunch of those, invaluable tool of the trade. Also "freeze out plugs", just a side note, those are actually built-in holes to remove the casting sand after the casting hardens. (Not trying to be a wise guy) Quick quiz question of the day: Who knows (besides me) what the little "clock" is for. I'm referring to the pointer that is directed at one of a series of dots arranged in a circle (about the size of a nickel). It's on almost all block and head castings. Thanks again guys, you cheered up my day!
Donald Biggar. Yes you are correct, that freeze out plugs remove casting sand when the blocks are made, I also mentioned that when we made this video. When we film we have a few hours in it, so we try to shorten the video for RUclips. But let me ask you, why do they call them freeze plugs? Next, the "clock" I have heard that is how many times casting with the same mold. If I am wrong, I have a feeling you have the correct answer. Please reply. Thanks for your interest.
always thought that the "freeze plugs" were actually casting plugs to remove sand after the casting is completed and I have seen a cracked block from freezing, yes the plugs popped out but one of the cylinder walls also cracked turning it into a steaming V-7 with one steaming cylinder that never really made much power after that, an old International Harvester gas engine with 5 speed and 2 speed axle, never pulled anything past about 25 km/h with a full load of water after that
Nick, great videos. Did you use flat top pistons for this build or the original pistons? Also, what type of cam and size was used? I have a 70 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 engine that I am in the process of rebuilding now.
Please tell me how to adjust the valves on a similar motor,whether rhey are regulated,l have them knocking,the hydraulic pushers are new Thank you in advance
Interestingly, the Ram Rod 350 of 1968-69 was a solid lifter 350, more along the lines of the W30 455. For 1970 Olds wanted a gentler Hot Rod.. From the sales pamphlet of the day "the performance look…combined with the practical aspects of a more conventional engine". The W31, also "rated" at 310 HP was available in any other 2 door Cutlass. The W31 replaced The Ram Rod. The Rallye got the same base L74 350 4bbl as any other Cutlass, even the Vista Cruiser wagon. Todays Hemmings Blog coincidentally compares a '71 Pontiac (LeMans) GT37 to the Rallye 350. blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2017/01/12/this-or-that-1970-olds-rallye-350-versus-1971-pontiac-gt-37/?.it&
@DT Helland It really depends what you can find!!! In the late 1970s to the mid 1980s Oldsmobile built a 403 block that was a gas engine converted to run on diesel fuel!! IF You can find one of those blocks the can be converted back to gasoline easy enough with a little effort, BUT there is on benefit that the diesel blocks have the standard gas motors DON'T have........Four Bolt Main Caps! At least Oldsmobile had the common sense to put four bolt main caps in many of the diesel bolts that were not normally found in the similar size gas motor....but then again it is a hunt to find those anymore too! Though the 403 is a good engine and there are some "tweaks" that can be done to them I know Hot Rod Magazine did do a supercharger on a 403 and there was another build of one as well, some where back in the 1980s, but I can't recall which specific issues those were!
Can you please help?! I have an olds 350 casting # 557752-3b, it was a swap from a stock 307 from my 1983 olds 98, and everything was switched over, the mechanic told me to order parts as if it is a 1983 307 (intake manifold & carb are from the 307). Problem i'm having is that the starter does not seem to want to start the engine. I'll get one good start then it'll struggle and chug. New battery, altenator, battery wires and all. Which starter would you suggest for this engine? any help is greatly apprecaite! Thanks so much!
Secret Santa. Sorry I read your comment late. But let me ask a question. An original starter should do the job. I had a customer with the same problem and it was his ignition timing way off. If not, I have to call my Oldsmobile buddy to help me on this one. If I can help you, I will reply back to you.
It is a dark blue, hard cover book called "Motor'. I picked it up from a parts store back in 1975 and I have found it to be very accurate. It covers the years 1968-1974.
Everybody makes mistakes. I used to call them freeze plugs too well into my mid 30's until a friend explained to me what they were actually. You've got a great channel here Nick. The only problem is you don't post enough, LOL...
Was supposed to buy one of these cars in the early eighties - the night before I was to pick it up, and pay the money (NZ$1500, IIRC) the dumbass owner got drunk and smashed it up. Not a scratch on him but the car was a total write-off. Damned shame as it was immaculate before the prang and very rare down here.
I am an Oldsmobile nut!! And I have owned six Oldsmobiles in my time and every one of them here 350 Rocket powered except my 1977 Oldsmobile Omega which was equipped from the factory with a Chevy small block! And I have to point out that I have only one issue with your videos when you claim that the Oldsmobile Rocket 350 is a "small block" as it isn't! After all if you look closely at any true "small block" you first find that the spread between the cylinders (left bank to right bank) is only 90 degrees on a true "small block"! And with that in mind the spread between the banks in any Oldsmobile motor is 60 degrees the same as a 455 or a 454 big block....so basically there is no such thing as a "small block" Rocket 350 EVER due to the wider "stance" between the cylinders! In fact the only true "small bock" Oldsmobile engines are a 215 all aluminum block that was only built and used in two years of the Cutlass/ F85 body style which was 1963 and 1964! And a similar engine 215 cubic inch was used in the same two years of the Buick Skylark as well! The only other "notable" exceptions was the 267 that was used in 1979 to 1984 and could be found in Cutlass of those years and have a HEI ignition system in them that can be directly bolted to the older Rocket 350 motors. The only other "true small block" was a 307 that was built in the late 1970s as well that was manufactured by Oldsmobile as well but I am not sure exactly what the specs were on those as I have only seen them in books. BUT again the 330 to 455 Oldsmobile engines all share the same 60 degree cylinder angle ...so technically there are NO small block 350 Rocket engines EVER produced! And I want to add too that there used to be a company named Kenne Bell that sold a kit to make a full adjustable valve train kit for the 350 and 455 Oldsmobile Rocket motors and if you could find one of those kits (which looks similar to what was "normal" on many Chrysler V8 with a "rail" type rocker arm) and a set of Rhodes lifters, you should be able to pump the motor up that extra 10 horses you are missing!!! But finding those old Kenne Bell kits might be extremely hard! Another thing to consider is to get rid of the power brakes master cylinder in favor of manual brakes, that if tuned properly can work just as well on a Rallye 350 as well (if you use a pair of proportioning valves in the system on the brakes). My 1974 Oldsmobile Omega made just over 400 horsepower and I was running a slightly tweaked Rochester carb as well, with a set of different metering rods installed in it! But it has been a long time since I tinkered with them and if memory serves I was retarding the timing by about one degree with the Rhodes lifters installed! Otherwise this is a great set of videos!!
Yeah, I've seen this guy around on a couple other vids. He's freakin nuts. Sounds like a guy who used to have his shit together, then he went senile. The whole "all olds engines are 60 degrees" is fucking bull. ALL Olds V8s, and 99% of V8s in general, American or otherwise, are 90* engines. That means a piston fires every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation. On a V8, two cylinders per bank fire on each 90*, or 1/4 of a full 360* revolution to maintain proper engine balance. A notable example of a 60 degree engine, is the Buick 231 V6, which was used in the Grand Nationals. It needed to be 60 degrees to maintain proper balance. when the 231 came out, it was a 90* engine, and it would idle very roughly and shake around. 4 stroke engines fire every 720 degrees of crank rotation, suck squeeze, bang, blow. From bang to bang is 720 degrees. The standard formula for determining the best angle for firing is 720 divided by however many cylinders there are. For example, 720/4 is 180. AKA A flat 4 engine (Subaru), or an Inline 4. 720/8 is 90. However, 720/6 is 120. The V6 could not have a 120 bank angle, as that would make the engine very wide and hard to package in a car that that type of engine was designed for. So, what GM did was use a split pin crankshaft. They took the rod journals of the crank, and offset them from each other to acheive the 120 firing degree, while maintaining the 60* bank angle. Cylinder bank angle and firing angle are independant of eachother, but often match up. And Kenne Bell made BUICK stuff, never anything for the olds. Their shaft rockers were for BUICK 350s, 455s, and 231s, which had shaft rockers from the factory. Oldsmobile never had shaft rockers on anything. They had individual rockers like Chevy and pontiac. Long Story Short, this guy is crazy, there are small and big block oldsmobile, but he will argue until the cows come home. Fun Fact: There are no small or big block PONTIACS, because externally, all the v8 blocks from the 326 to the 455 are the same size, and have the same bore spacing. Hence why you can take heads from a 350 and put them on a 400, or 455, or vice versa. Pontiac engines are classified by large and small journal engines, the journal size referring to the mains.
That young apprentice is one lucky dude. You'd be hard pressed to find a better teacher in the art and science of building muscle car engines. It's like hitting the lottery jackpot of training and development.
i love your "built not bought" philosophy. . im a mechanic, self taught and formally reminded lol/gear head.
Oldsmobile made some of the best engines ever!
Holy moly does it get any better, it almost brings tears to your eyes....or maybe it does❕ this kid knows how lucky he is, obviously ....I am envious‼️®™️
Its good to see an engine builder with the passion to work on the old muscle car engines. Its a dying breed for sure.
This is what id like to see more of "engine building" im sure many of Nick's fans would also, Im an Aussie & i love these shows.
Nicks garage a place to learn and enjoy engine building from a true pro with over years of experience..........Vasilis you are fortunate to learn from NICK.
Johnny, U are absolutely right, & if I may add, what makes the shop even more interesting is the people whom hang around there. Yepp, Vasilis is in great hands !!!
Oldsmobile Rallye 350 rocket 🚀 rocks!!!great video Nick
I get a warm glow when I watch these videos.
The freeze plug story is an old wives tale. The holes are there to support the sand structure that forms the water jacket during lost foam casting. I’ve seen several blocks split open with the core plugs still in place.
really cool in-depth explanation of an engine build
Nick, you should have highlighted the oil restrictors you used. That is very unique to building an Oldsmobile V8!
William Hugelmeyer. Next time I will. Thanks.
If I made help educate, the brass plugs are actually to remove the sand from the black after its cast. If a plug pops out because someone forgot to add Prestone, other parts of the block could have already cracked before a "freeze" plugs let's go. And the bright yellow was Sebring Yellow, and the Rallye 350 was a sales failure, the yellow didn't work nearly as well as the Carousel Red (Chevy engine block orange!) on the 1st GTO Judges... Many of the Rallye 350's were re-painted to get them off the dealer lot. Same problem Rambler had with the Rebel Machine and Rambler American Hurst S/C 390. Mopar did great with the Big Bad Color palet, except the Panther Pink lol... But back to the video...
good first point, i would have loved to own on though, in that color
Agreed
If i had been single and free i would have flown to canada once a month to see the master at work.
the passion in building reliable horsepower !!!
That guy is so Lucky to have somebody like Nick teach him how to do that Nick is a dying breed old V8,s is how I learned.But now everything is computers 😳
Maidenlord 666. You are so correct, working on these old cars is a dying breed. Thanks for watching.
Great video Nick the tips are awesome! looking forward to seeing you blast that motor on the dyno
Thanks! We spent lots of time shooting this one on the dyno' for you guys. Stay tuned, it is in the editing room now.
be a dream job working for nick!,All that experience
Velocity? Who’s that Nick? 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
😂🤣🤐🤣😂
6: 40 They are not freeze plugs to protect the engine if the coolant freezes. They are called core plugs from sand casting when the block is made. They will not protect the block if it freezes.
mansonmydog. I have seen core plugs pop out when in some cases you are lucky when it freezes, but you are correct, I also seen cylinder heads and blocks cracked in different places, due to freezing. I also mentioned it in the video that the casting sand comes out of these holes, but was cut out to shorten the video for RUclips. It takes hours to film and editing. Yes you are correct, they do call them "core plugs" Thanks for watching.
I enjoy your videos
mansonmydog you are correct that that are from the casting so the casting sand can release from inside the newly cast block. I do believe that it was an unintentional benefit in colder climates that they will pop first if the water freezes but would only allow for ice pressure relief close to the plug. I am sure there have been cases where a core plug has prevented a block from cracking when it froze, but definitely not why they exist.
Thanks for sharing your knowlege
And if the cooling system has ethyline glycol in it like it's SUPPOSED to, it would never freeze anyway.
I had a 72 Cutlass with a 180 HP 30 rocket I rebuild it with basic upgrades. Higher compression piston, bored .030 over, Bigger cam, aftermarket intake, Edelbrock carb, HEI. and a stall converter. It felt healthy and fun. I never ported the heads though. wish I would have. It may have made a significant difference.
Nick, once your channel gets around, I hope your subs goes thru the roof! You just came up on my recommended vids to watch and I'm so glad I did. Awesome work. I'm an old guy too,. but never could do what you are doing now, but remember the days of dwell and points and carb settings..
Yeah, man. I'm old school. I still work with carbs and points every day of the week. All kinds of old cars find their way to my place.
Nick's Garage hey man cool channel i have a 1971 383 I want to make a street car with it ....what carb. you think i should run on it? thanks
fishnut gaming. Please tell me what modifications you have on your 383 engine. I will get back to you. Thanks for watching.
Love watching you work nick! Awesome stuff!
Great job guys love your channel and your work. I'm among one of the lucky ones who had the chance to visit your shop! Keep the videos coming cause we love to learn.
Thanks for dropping by the shop. It can be a popular spot, some guys forget to leave once they see what goes on in the shop. Especially on a sunny summer day. Cars and engines as far as the eye can see.
very nice motor jib thumbs up
What a great channel, you guys are doing some awesome work! Looks like a great bunch of guys you have there too, Nick. That was a "Motor" manual I just saw. I used to have a bunch of those, invaluable tool of the trade. Also "freeze out plugs", just a side note, those are actually built-in holes to remove the casting sand after the casting hardens. (Not trying to be a wise guy)
Quick quiz question of the day: Who knows (besides me) what the little "clock" is for. I'm referring to the pointer that is directed at one of a series of dots arranged in a circle (about the size of a nickel). It's on almost all block and head castings.
Thanks again guys, you cheered up my day!
Donald Biggar. Yes you are correct, that freeze out plugs remove casting sand when the blocks are made, I also mentioned that when we made this video. When we film we have a few hours in it, so we try to shorten the video for RUclips. But let me ask you, why do they call them freeze plugs? Next, the "clock" I have heard that is how many times casting with the same mold. If I am wrong, I have a feeling you have the correct answer. Please reply. Thanks for your interest.
Great video i wish i had someone to teach me like this 👍👍
always thought that the "freeze plugs" were actually casting plugs to remove sand after the casting is completed and I have seen a cracked block from freezing, yes the plugs popped out but one of the cylinder walls also cracked turning it into a steaming V-7 with one steaming cylinder that never really made much power after that, an old International Harvester gas engine with 5 speed and 2 speed axle, never pulled anything past about 25 km/h with a full load of water after that
Nick, great videos. Did you use flat top pistons for this build or the original pistons? Also, what type of cam and size was used? I have a 70 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 engine that I am in the process of rebuilding now.
Awesome job and very informative dude your so dope
Please tell me how to adjust the valves on a similar motor,whether rhey are regulated,l have them knocking,the hydraulic pushers are new
Thank you in advance
Interestingly, the Ram Rod 350 of 1968-69 was a solid lifter 350, more along the lines of the W30 455. For 1970 Olds wanted a gentler Hot Rod.. From the sales pamphlet of the day "the performance look…combined with the practical aspects of a more conventional engine". The W31, also "rated" at 310 HP was available in any other 2 door Cutlass. The W31 replaced The Ram Rod. The Rallye got the same base L74 350 4bbl as any other Cutlass, even the Vista Cruiser wagon. Todays Hemmings Blog coincidentally compares a '71 Pontiac (LeMans) GT37 to the Rallye 350.
blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2017/01/12/this-or-that-1970-olds-rallye-350-versus-1971-pontiac-gt-37/?.it&
the W-31 was rated at 325 HP
cutlassinwhite You're keeping me honest, and I thooght the W31 and W30 had solid lifters, I'm wrong, just a serious rumpity rumpity cam!
They were not solid lifters.
gristlepounder yeah, I see the lite, oh well
hahahahahahah Nick love your last comment, shots fired to Velocity.
Levon K. It is true, I do not see anything on engine rebuilding and Dyno testing.
What kind of cam did you use Nick if you don't mind me asking?
Need more videos !!!
Thanks! We hear you, and we are making more... but they take time. :) Keep watching.
are the 403 blocks any good? Theyre same stroke as 350, just a wider bore. I'm curious of the power gains
@DT Helland It really depends what you can find!!! In the late 1970s to the mid 1980s Oldsmobile built a 403 block that was a gas engine converted to run on diesel fuel!! IF You can find one of those blocks the can be converted back to gasoline easy enough with a little effort, BUT there is on benefit that the diesel blocks have the standard gas motors DON'T have........Four Bolt Main Caps! At least Oldsmobile had the common sense to put four bolt main caps in many of the diesel bolts that were not normally found in the similar size gas motor....but then again it is a hunt to find those anymore too! Though the 403 is a good engine and there are some "tweaks" that can be done to them I know Hot Rod Magazine did do a supercharger on a 403 and there was another build of one as well, some where back in the 1980s, but I can't recall which specific issues those were!
Love this channellllllllllll
So what's the difference between a regular 350 rocket engine and the Rallye version????
About 100 horsepower...
Can you please help?! I have an olds 350 casting # 557752-3b, it was a swap from a stock 307 from my 1983 olds 98, and everything was switched over, the mechanic told me to order parts as if it is a 1983 307 (intake manifold & carb are from the 307). Problem i'm having is that the starter does not seem to want to start the engine. I'll get one good start then it'll struggle and chug. New battery, altenator, battery wires and all. Which starter would you suggest for this engine? any help is greatly apprecaite! Thanks so much!
Secret Santa. Sorry I read your comment late. But let me ask a question. An original starter should do the job. I had a customer with the same problem and it was his ignition timing way off. If not, I have to call my Oldsmobile buddy to help me on this one. If I can help you, I will reply back to you.
307 was a 7.8:1 CR engine. You need a high torque starter for a 350 or 455cid
Secret Santa. Just get a 350 starter and it will do the job.
Can you please give the name of the book Nick reads at 04:33?
It is a dark blue, hard cover book called "Motor'. I picked it up from a parts store back in 1975 and I have found it to be very accurate. It covers the years 1968-1974.
Thank you a lot!
Only checking Clearance on One Bearing isn't the way I would want any Engine of mine built
Sorry,Nick, they are not freeze plugs. They are casting plugs.
Rico Swave. You are correct, and some say they are called core plugs. Thanks for the input.
Everybody makes mistakes. I used to call them freeze plugs too well into my mid 30's until a friend explained to me what they were actually.
You've got a great channel here Nick. The only problem is you don't post enough, LOL...
Was supposed to buy one of these cars in the early eighties - the night before I was to pick it up, and pay the money (NZ$1500, IIRC) the dumbass owner got drunk and smashed it up. Not a scratch on him but the car was a total write-off. Damned shame as it was immaculate before the prang and very rare down here.
GordoWG1 WG1. Too bad, sorry to hear that.
no inside outside mic bore cage bearings bore gauge ? plastigage ? Just asking
Michael Evans. We did use plastigage @ 5:01. Thanks for watching.
Flat Chevy pistons and a good Mondello cam will do 400hp easy
John Mills. We have that, flat pistons and a Mondello cam.
I am an Oldsmobile nut!! And I have owned six Oldsmobiles in my time and every one of them here 350 Rocket powered except my 1977 Oldsmobile Omega which was equipped from the factory with a Chevy small block! And I have to point out that I have only one issue with your videos when you claim that the Oldsmobile Rocket 350 is a "small block" as it isn't! After all if you look closely at any true "small block" you first find that the spread between the cylinders (left bank to right bank) is only 90 degrees on a true "small block"! And with that in mind the spread between the banks in any Oldsmobile motor is 60 degrees the same as a 455 or a 454 big block....so basically there is no such thing as a "small block" Rocket 350 EVER due to the wider "stance" between the cylinders! In fact the only true "small bock" Oldsmobile engines are a 215 all aluminum block that was only built and used in two years of the Cutlass/ F85 body style which was 1963 and 1964! And a similar engine 215 cubic inch was used in the same two years of the Buick Skylark as well! The only other "notable" exceptions was the 267 that was used in 1979 to 1984 and could be found in Cutlass of those years and have a HEI ignition system in them that can be directly bolted to the older Rocket 350 motors. The only other "true small block" was a 307 that was built in the late 1970s as well that was manufactured by Oldsmobile as well but I am not sure exactly what the specs were on those as I have only seen them in books. BUT again the 330 to 455 Oldsmobile engines all share the same 60 degree cylinder angle ...so technically there are NO small block 350 Rocket engines EVER produced! And I want to add too that there used to be a company named Kenne Bell that sold a kit to make a full adjustable valve train kit for the 350 and 455 Oldsmobile Rocket motors and if you could find one of those kits (which looks similar to what was "normal" on many Chrysler V8 with a "rail" type rocker arm) and a set of Rhodes lifters, you should be able to pump the motor up that extra 10 horses you are missing!!! But finding those old Kenne Bell kits might be extremely hard! Another thing to consider is to get rid of the power brakes master cylinder in favor of manual brakes, that if tuned properly can work just as well on a Rallye 350 as well (if you use a pair of proportioning valves in the system on the brakes). My 1974 Oldsmobile Omega made just over 400 horsepower and I was running a slightly tweaked Rochester carb as well, with a set of different metering rods installed in it! But it has been a long time since I tinkered with them and if memory serves I was retarding the timing by about one degree with the Rhodes lifters installed! Otherwise this is a great set of videos!!
Yeah, I've seen this guy around on a couple other vids. He's freakin nuts. Sounds like a guy who used to have his shit together, then he went senile. The whole "all olds engines are 60 degrees" is fucking bull. ALL Olds V8s, and 99% of V8s in general, American or otherwise, are 90* engines. That means a piston fires every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation. On a V8, two cylinders per bank fire on each 90*, or 1/4 of a full 360* revolution to maintain proper engine balance. A notable example of a 60 degree engine, is the Buick 231 V6, which was used in the Grand Nationals. It needed to be 60 degrees to maintain proper balance. when the 231 came out, it was a 90* engine, and it would idle very roughly and shake around. 4 stroke engines fire every 720 degrees of crank rotation, suck squeeze, bang, blow. From bang to bang is 720 degrees. The standard formula for determining the best angle for firing is 720 divided by however many cylinders there are. For example, 720/4 is 180. AKA A flat 4 engine (Subaru), or an Inline 4. 720/8 is 90.
However, 720/6 is 120. The V6 could not have a 120 bank angle, as that would make the engine very wide and hard to package in a car that that type of engine was designed for. So, what GM did was use a split pin crankshaft. They took the rod journals of the crank, and offset them from each other to acheive the 120 firing degree, while maintaining the 60* bank angle. Cylinder bank angle and firing angle are independant of eachother, but often match up. And Kenne Bell made BUICK stuff, never anything for the olds. Their shaft rockers were for BUICK 350s, 455s, and 231s, which had shaft rockers from the factory. Oldsmobile never had shaft rockers on anything. They had individual rockers like Chevy and pontiac.
Long Story Short, this guy is crazy, there are small and big block oldsmobile, but he will argue until the cows come home.
Fun Fact: There are no small or big block PONTIACS, because externally, all the v8 blocks from the 326 to the 455 are the same size, and have the same bore spacing. Hence why you can take heads from a 350 and put them on a 400, or 455, or vice versa. Pontiac engines are classified by large and small journal engines, the journal size referring to the mains.
Are these guys Greek?
Yup. Greek heritage, living in Montreal.
@@NicksGarage What...Greeks that arent Valiant and Chrysler nuts??? amazing.... Keep up the good work vre