kombini's just shipped. got mine tues. and have to say it's great. Installed on a Rotorx atom V2 With some 10a Cicada's and 1105's. This fc pdb combo made the build so easy and clean.
Joshua just received my kombini and I think this is a game changer. Super simple and f3. I am running 125 loop times and one shot 42 and my quad is on rails.Get your hands on one and tell me I am wrong. I'd send you one but I want more for more QUADS!
Furious fpv actually makes a osd vtx combo designed specifically to stack on the piko blx. That and two in one esc's in the same form factor. So in my book that looks amazing for smaller quads. And possibly bigger ones.
I have a couple PIKO BLX boards. I'm building micros these days. They don't actually have a "built in" buzzer. Some of them come with an external buzzer. Mine didn't. I had to solder a buzzer to a couple of pads on the board.
good review, I had the doge dtfc and now piko blx in my twitch 109mm micro, the piko is far far cleaner to wire up, has 2A 5v bec and a battery voltage LC filter output for vtx, doesn't have a buzzer built in i think their product description is worded wrong, it has buzzer output pins.. The Doge still seemed a good product but simply isn't as well equipped or layed out as the piko
Question I hope you can answer... I put 12volts to my sp Racing f3 board by accident and I was wondering if it could be saved... It won't turn on with 5 volts but does work with the USB cable connected telling me a regulator or cap my have blown. Any insight would be appreciated. thx
Have you seen the new version of the TBS powercube used in the Rotor-x Atom V2...? 3 layer stack, FC/esc/osd/vtx everything can be controlled/changed via the tx and osd...
thanks for the link, Yeah the TBS cube in the atom is amazing. Funny thing Joshua, I have a Piko BLX sitting on my bench about to be used in a build...but I cant see any buzzers on it either, Spend ages reading the specs on the site and scratching my head looking for in hahha
I have a DTFc and the quality is amazing. It's not easy to make an FC with integrated PDB with respect to noise, so look and features are not the whole story. I think the issues with gyro is related to electrical noise on this platform and recommend to use 2 buck caps on the ESC outputs (390u-1mF). Many people are referring bad gyro with mechanical noise. I think when you have mechanical noise in the system, this will be amplified by the PID controller, the ESC will produce more noise and transients that will adapt to the gyro power supply, and bad thigs can happen. So mechanical and electrical noise in the system is related. It's just a theory from my side, tell me if I'm wrong.
I have a link to a discussion in rcgroups showing noise on the 3.3v rail on boards that glitch. You're not alone in thinking electrical noise plays in.
There are sooo many new FCs now, hard to keep track! Great that things are evolving, but think I'll wait a bit and let time tell which one(s) are the winners.
You don't have to wait. There are already some clear winners that have been around for six months or more. I agree that jumping on the latest and greatest has its risks.
You're right, the traditional F3 boards have been around for a while, and the X-Racer F303 seems to be a great board for example. I was thinking more about the newer ones with integrated PDB/OSD though.
Yeah worked fine via usb. soldered up the pig tail and RX and nothing. It still works via USB just not using the on board BEC . Testing with an external BEC seems to work ok. Haven't soldered on esc yet.
Passthrough should be working fine on all boards except the Moto Tornado as of betaflight 2.7.1 and blheli 14.6. The Tornado doesn't work because it has hardware buffers on the ESC outputs that prevent bidirectional communication. All you need is a working signal line. In other words, if the motors will spin, passthrough should work.
on the PIKO fc, it´s expectet to not use the signalground from the esc. is it recomendet to use signal without ground? for some its ok, other say there are a few issues popping up, maybe burning esc without using the signalground. whats your experience? are you using the signalground? if yes, why? isn`t ground still ground - so just solder the signalground to esc powerground? and why are the manufactorer still continue to sell esc with signalgroundwires on? it isn't needed?! is it?
I always use signal ground. Ground is "just ground" if you assume zero resistance and reactance from the medium. Reactance refers to the amount of capacitance and inductance that the medium presents. For a DC signal, reactance basically doesn't matter. The DC voltage is applied, current flows until the capacitance and inductance of the circuit are satisfied, and then everything is static. Voltage everywhere in the circuit is equal. Think of a plumbing system that is filling up with water. As the water flows in, the pipes groan as the pressure moves through the system. But then eventually the whole system is full of water and everything is static. Even if you open a tap so some water is flowing, there will be a momentary disturbance in the stasis, but then everything will stabilize again. Now think of a plumbing system where somebody is constantly opening and closing a tap very fast. This will create localized disturbances in the pressure. This is analogous to an electrical system with AC current. When there is AC current, the capacitance and inductance of the circuit will cause there to be localized voltage differences, and the more AC current there is, the more the voltage will differ. Because ESCs make a LOT of noise, the voltage across the ground plane of a quadcopter can vary significantly. This can be enough to corrupt ESC signal outputs in some cases.
hate to bother u again, a hyperlite f4 and got x4r.sb and the f4 board don't show uarts but shows rx3 would the rx3 work for smartport? I tried it and selected smartport in betaflight and vbat enabled but tarantis do the find new sensors and don't show vfas either, what am I doing wrong?
OMNIBUS F4 PRO V3 FLIGHT CONTROLLER WITH CURRENT SENSOR, OSD AND SMARTAUDIO will i need to wire it up special way for x4r-sb rx ? is there a good wiring diagram somewhere that will show me? I hope this works and gets me back in air.. no more hyperlite f4 thats crazy it loses the memory for betaflight setup
wow. Piko BLX would be perfect for a Shrike type frame. the FC would not be part of the frame, not connected to the standoffs so would not be damaged in crashes. Great use case for it
Hey Joshua, nice overview (as usual). Do you think it would be possible use a Piko BLX on a 180-220 4S setup? My concern is about the current the board would support and the awg required for the battery cable.
The osdoge is really expensive, but I run it quite often simply because I can tune PID's with stick commands and don't even have to bring in my quad and plug it in. I'm lazy like that
Exactly. I wish to goodness there was a decent, reasonably priced MWSOD board in a 36mm form factor. I think there was a link to one somewhere else on the thread. That, combined with DTFc would be a nice combination.
Good to see someone else acknowledge the ridiculous price of the OSDoge.. I actually use a stackable MWOSD card which is pin compatible from freebirdrc.com (under parts,etc). I have 4 of these and all work flawlessly.
That's a very nice board. Shame it (like most) lacks a current sensor. Somebody needs to make a barebones PDB with vReg and current sensor built in. Suddenly, everybody will have current readout no matter whether they're using a simple Naze or anything more complex.
Ask and you shall receive... rcexplorer.se/product/babypdb/ Though it's built for a tricopter, if you double up on soldering the esc to the pdb, should work a charm... Oh yeah, 5S capable to boot...
It's pretty cool. I've been watching Project Bluefalcon's videos on it. I still like the RROSD, but the Betaflight configurable OSD is pretty exciting. Removes most of the down-sides of MWOSD, I think. You still need current sensing though, and PDB's with current sensor are a bit rare. I really think it makes the most sense to integrate the OSD into the PDB since the PDB must have current sensing. But Betaflight OSD might change my mind, since it makes configuration so easy. But then you definitely need current sensing in the PDB with a separate wire to the FC and OSD.
My thoughts are pretty similar. But if you consider that current consumed does not really equal flight time (e.g. if one flight is more modest than the last), battery voltage is really the tell-tale and the Omnibus can show you that along with everything else. I think it's a great 90% solution, especially for builds with little room. Thanks for the reply.
+Jeff Beasley current is important for evaluating battery and ESC performance. For example, if I run one 1300 mAh battery to 15.0 volts and get 1100 mAh, and another battery I get 950 mAh, perhaps the first one is better.
Good point, Joshua. Would you give up the OSD functionality in favor of an integrated PDB + current measurement? At that point you're awfully similar to a DTFc. I'm torn between the two right now...
+Jeff Beasley I'm suspicious of integrated power handling and gyro. It has to be done right to avoid noise. I think that PDB plus osd or PDB plus current sensor and FC plus osd makes the most sense.
Can you please make a video on how to properly calibrate the Current_meter through Cleanflight? I have been searching everywhere on how to calibrate the scale and offset to be accurate. In many of your videos, you mention that the Current draw is important to keep track of during each flight and I would like to have it working properly. Anyways, I have watched almost all of your videos and I learned a lot. Thanks in advance. Happy Flying!
This reference would be a good start. github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/blob/master/docs/Battery.md#tuning-using-actual-current-measurements The easiest way to tune current meter is to use a clamp meter or something like the Turnigy 7-in-1 Mega-Meter to measure actual current draw. Then you adjust offset so that amps at zero throttle is correct, and scale so that amps at moderate throttle is correct. The higher throttle you use, the more accurate the reading will be, but it's pretty terrifying to be reading a current meter while your copter is strapped to a table and all four props are going full blast. In my experience, you have to go back and forth several times, since a very small inaccuracy in current scale will cause a big inaccuracy in offset, and vice versa. Eventually you home in on a correct value. If you know exactly what current sensor you are using, there may be pre-established correct values on the Internet. Not having to calibrate current like this is a HUGE reason that I love the RROSD, since it comes pre-calibrated from the factory. The one time that I did it with MWOSD, it was a really hairy experience because I had to spin the props to draw 70 amps while trying to read a current meter.
There's also...the SirinFPV which is $120 msrp, but it's osd and video TX, blackbox FC. Also works with Six motors something I hope you will not in your great reviews.
the value of a PDB is lessened greatly if you are using the Littlebee pro 4-1 or the newest BLheli_s 4-1 esc. That really expensive FC and the is certainly the fastest build, and the slimmest stack. If you like a black box, it's pretty darn cool. Plus A full 40 channels with 200 or 25 mW controlled through the OSD.
Many of these boards will do six motors, but I reckon the vast, vast majority are flying quads, and that's where my focus is. The Sirin is a hell of a product. Even at that price, it's almost the only thing that does what it does.
+Joshua Bardwell the micro stack of the future will be, either sirin plus 4-1, or ... f4 FC, 4-1 esc, and AND with intergrated OSD and bec/VR/filtering. You need a microcontroller to change 40 channels, so they should just include the OSD, which is inexpensive parts, and the code is already written. Plus selectable output.
I just worry with that much integration, you're out a huge whack if something breaks. I think the modular stack idea, such as TBS Powercube is pushing, and another product I'm aware of that isn't ready for release yet (but soon). The idea should be that you have an OSD, FC, PDB/vReg, etc... all as a stackable module and you can pick and choose what you want. That way if something breaks, you aren't out the whole investment.
+Joshua Bardwell there's a few X designs where the flight stack is not part of camera/top plate. Which actually makes a perfect sense since you want to have vibration isolation. That should be nearly impossible to break in a micro. Also once you put (vrx, pololu, osd, bec) together, everything else is inexpensive and available now.
That's a good question, and I'm a little embarrassed I didn't address it in the video, given how important I think a current sensor is. The DTFc has a current sensor. PIKO BLX does not appear to have one. I can't find an answer for Kombini, but obviously the OSD + FC setup will include current sensing, it's just a question of whether the sensor will be available if you only have the FC and not the OSD.
That's true. If you don't run osd, you dont want or need current sensing. Most of time anymore I run an OSD just for the ability to tune PID's at the field easily. Well along with watching battery voltage but I think I'm a little obsessed with watching the voltage when I just need to fly. Great videos BTW I watch them all.
I disagree with your second sentence. Even if you don't have an OSD, you can have current sensing input to any cleanflight or betaflight FC that has the input pin (and most do). This will allow you to track current consumption via FrSky telemetry, which, although not as good as an OSD in my opinon, is still better than nothing.
DTFc doesn't have to be tied to an OSdoge. it has 3 uarts, one for your RX,#3.and 2 for whatever you want. MicroOSD, Blackbox,ect...I don't like the OSDOGe.but I like this board.
DYS XBR220 XBR-F3 www.banggood.com/DYS-XBR220-XBR-F3-F3-Flight-Control-2-4S-Integrated-with-OSD-UBED-PDB-p-1066479.html?p=0609202427422013084W www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2697366 It's big on the X/Y axis, but maybe you could zip tie your esc wires the the 'lobes'. You would need a frame to accommodate it. I can't find specs on the gyro though... if it's SPI I would try it out.
+xf0L hole spacement on the Piko is too much of a hassle, and the Kombini also doesn't have an OSD, so more weight, more wire and more work ahead. and of course, the DYS XBR220 is a juggernaut that won't even fit in many builds. look for a HGLRC V3, that's an all in one standard size board that looks almost perfect. i'd rather take a boart without the extension for the battery wire pads though, if there was one. let me know if anyone finds a board like this.
hey buddy not on its not about this video but I have a problem I need help with I have posted videos on facebook and no resolution so I was wondering if you can go watch my video and see what am I doing wrong please call me appreciate it thank you
How about some reviews on clones? banggood has what seems to be a great F3 EVO board with SPI gyros (MPU9250) for only $26, if it works as advertised, how can you beat it? www.banggood.com/F3-EVO-Cleanflight-10DOF-Flight-Controller-Oem-Version-for-Multirotor-Racing-with-4G-MicroSD-p-1064058.html
+Phil659 the problem with clones is that you can never know if they are solid or crap. And I could never figure that out on my own just by looking at the specs page. Many of the clones are great. Many of then are defective. It's a gamble to buy them unless you have your ear to the ground and know people aren't having issues.
kombini's just shipped. got mine tues. and have to say it's great. Installed on a Rotorx atom V2 With some 10a Cicada's and 1105's. This fc pdb combo made the build so easy and clean.
Joshua just received my kombini and I think this is a game changer. Super simple and f3. I am running 125 loop times and one shot 42 and my quad is on rails.Get your hands on one and tell me I am wrong. I'd send you one but I want more for more QUADS!
Furious fpv actually makes a osd vtx combo designed specifically to stack on the piko blx. That and two in one esc's in the same form factor. So in my book that looks amazing for smaller quads. And possibly bigger ones.
I have a couple PIKO BLX boards. I'm building micros these days. They don't actually have a "built in" buzzer. Some of them come with an external buzzer. Mine didn't. I had to solder a buzzer to a couple of pads on the board.
good review, I had the doge dtfc and now piko blx in my twitch 109mm micro, the piko is far far cleaner to wire up, has 2A 5v bec and a battery voltage LC filter output for vtx, doesn't have a buzzer built in i think their product description is worded wrong, it has buzzer output pins.. The Doge still seemed a good product but simply isn't as well equipped or layed out as the piko
thanks for the review. This helped choosing my next FC
I have a few other flight controller round up videos if you want to search for them on my channel. Thanks for watching!
Hey dawg I heard you like PDBs, PDBs on PDBs. LOL Great start to my day!
Very nice :)
You should have made this video before i bought my DTFc but hey it's OK!
Thanks for sharing McGuyver and happy midweek
Well, you might love it! Who knows... definitely soft mount it though.
Joshua Bardwell Will do, no worry :)
Question I hope you can answer... I put 12volts to my sp Racing f3 board by accident and I was wondering if it could be saved... It won't turn on with 5 volts but does work with the USB cable connected telling me a regulator or cap my have blown. Any insight would be appreciated. thx
Have you seen the new version of the TBS powercube used in the Rotor-x Atom V2...? 3 layer stack, FC/esc/osd/vtx everything can be controlled/changed via the tx and osd...
+K. Soze link?
Yes a link would be nice I cannot find it anywhere
RC Flyer85 Look at the youtube video I linked above
thanks for the link, Yeah the TBS cube in the atom is amazing. Funny thing Joshua, I have a Piko BLX sitting on my bench about to be used in a build...but I cant see any buzzers on it either, Spend ages reading the specs on the site and scratching my head looking for in hahha
I have a DTFc and the quality is amazing. It's not easy to make an FC with integrated PDB with respect to noise, so look and features are not the whole story. I think the issues with gyro is related to electrical noise on this platform and recommend to use 2 buck caps on the ESC outputs (390u-1mF). Many people are referring bad gyro with mechanical noise. I think when you have mechanical noise in the system, this will be amplified by the PID controller, the ESC will produce more noise and transients that will adapt to the gyro power supply, and bad thigs can happen. So mechanical and electrical noise in the system is related. It's just a theory from my side, tell me if I'm wrong.
I have a link to a discussion in rcgroups showing noise on the 3.3v rail on boards that glitch. You're not alone in thinking electrical noise plays in.
There are sooo many new FCs now, hard to keep track! Great that things are evolving, but think I'll wait a bit and let time tell which one(s) are the winners.
You don't have to wait. There are already some clear winners that have been around for six months or more. I agree that jumping on the latest and greatest has its risks.
You're right, the traditional F3 boards have been around for a while, and the X-Racer F303 seems to be a great board for example. I was thinking more about the newer ones with integrated PDB/OSD though.
I picked up a Piko BLX buzzer pads onl not built in.
Built in BEC somoked on first power up.
+Freak of Speed did you power it before you soldered on it?
Yeah worked fine via usb. soldered up the pig tail and RX and nothing. It still works via USB just not using the on board BEC . Testing with an external BEC seems to work ok. Haven't soldered on esc yet.
Wow. Bummer.
How does blheli passthrough work on these boards,
Simply solder the ground wires to a common ground or is this not working?
Passthrough should be working fine on all boards except the Moto Tornado as of betaflight 2.7.1 and blheli 14.6. The Tornado doesn't work because it has hardware buffers on the ESC outputs that prevent bidirectional communication.
All you need is a working signal line. In other words, if the motors will spin, passthrough should work.
on the PIKO fc, it´s expectet to not use the signalground from the esc. is it recomendet to use signal without ground? for some its ok, other say there are a few issues popping up, maybe burning esc without using the signalground. whats your experience? are you using the signalground? if yes, why? isn`t ground still ground - so just solder the signalground to esc powerground? and why are the manufactorer still continue to sell esc with signalgroundwires on? it isn't needed?! is it?
I always use signal ground.
Ground is "just ground" if you assume zero resistance and reactance from the medium. Reactance refers to the amount of capacitance and inductance that the medium presents. For a DC signal, reactance basically doesn't matter. The DC voltage is applied, current flows until the capacitance and inductance of the circuit are satisfied, and then everything is static. Voltage everywhere in the circuit is equal.
Think of a plumbing system that is filling up with water. As the water flows in, the pipes groan as the pressure moves through the system. But then eventually the whole system is full of water and everything is static. Even if you open a tap so some water is flowing, there will be a momentary disturbance in the stasis, but then everything will stabilize again.
Now think of a plumbing system where somebody is constantly opening and closing a tap very fast. This will create localized disturbances in the pressure. This is analogous to an electrical system with AC current. When there is AC current, the capacitance and inductance of the circuit will cause there to be localized voltage differences, and the more AC current there is, the more the voltage will differ. Because ESCs make a LOT of noise, the voltage across the ground plane of a quadcopter can vary significantly. This can be enough to corrupt ESC signal outputs in some cases.
thank you for your help :) awesome^^
For the Pico it says it has OSD how do you connect it to the cam, because when I plug it in betaflight it says it doesn't?
+William Ruiz where does the pico say it has osd? I don't think it has osd.
hate to bother u again, a hyperlite f4 and got x4r.sb and the f4 board don't show uarts but shows rx3 would the rx3 work for smartport? I tried it and selected smartport in betaflight and vbat enabled but tarantis do the find new sensors and don't show vfas either, what am I doing wrong?
I don't know that board specifically but sometimes I know you can't find sensors unless the copter is armed. So try arming, then doing "find sensors".
OMNIBUS F4 PRO V3 FLIGHT CONTROLLER WITH CURRENT SENSOR, OSD AND SMARTAUDIO will i need to wire it up special way for x4r-sb rx ? is there a good wiring diagram somewhere that will show me? I hope this works and gets me back in air.. no more hyperlite f4 thats crazy it loses the memory for betaflight setup
wow. Piko BLX would be perfect for a Shrike type frame. the FC would not be part of the frame, not connected to the standoffs so would not be damaged in crashes. Great use case for it
Very clever.
Hey Joshua, nice overview (as usual). Do you think it would be possible use a Piko BLX on a 180-220 4S setup? My concern is about the current the board would support and the awg required for the battery cable.
I don't know the answer to this. I couldn't find a current rating for the board in a three-minute search of the product page or the manual.
please take a look at gearbests kingkong piko blx it has a boot button.
I have cc3d fc and i thinking to get new fc but I don't know what to get. I use Spektrum sat can help me please
Multirotor Mania Mantis?
www.multirotormania.com/home/1429-mrm-mantis-f3-flight-controller.html
The osdoge is really expensive, but I run it quite often simply because I can tune PID's with stick commands and don't even have to bring in my quad and plug it in. I'm lazy like that
You can do that with a minimOSD with the MWOSD firmware...
+ABMNS PRODUCTION Yeah but a stack is much neater
Exactly. I wish to goodness there was a decent, reasonably priced MWSOD board in a 36mm form factor. I think there was a link to one somewhere else on the thread. That, combined with DTFc would be a nice combination.
Any good fcs which have the same pin layout of a naze Rev 5? I need it for the epipdb
+bo holland DTFc is your answer.
thanks, but isn't it unnessecary to effectively have two pdbs on board?
Unnecessary, but there you go. I don't know of another F3 that matches the pinout.
ok cheers, actually thinking back there may be one by the makers of the epipdb
cheers mate!
Good to see someone else acknowledge the ridiculous price of the OSDoge.. I actually use a stackable MWOSD card which is pin compatible from freebirdrc.com (under parts,etc). I have 4 of these and all work flawlessly.
That's a very nice board. Shame it (like most) lacks a current sensor. Somebody needs to make a barebones PDB with vReg and current sensor built in. Suddenly, everybody will have current readout no matter whether they're using a simple Naze or anything more complex.
Ask and you shall receive... rcexplorer.se/product/babypdb/ Though it's built for a tricopter, if you double up on soldering the esc to the pdb, should work a charm... Oh yeah, 5S capable to boot...
I just saw that yesterday. Awesome!!
no built-in buzzer fir Piko Blx. you need to provide and solder in.
It's either a mistake or never made it into production.
I didn't think I saw a buzzer on there, but I figured maybe it was some kind of super secret mini buzzer. Disappointing.
+Joshua Bardwell they show a buzzer to add in the diagram. Tiny buzzer would be tiny noise anyways.
Joshua,
what are your thoughts regarding the Flip 32 Omnibus FC?
It's pretty cool. I've been watching Project Bluefalcon's videos on it. I still like the RROSD, but the Betaflight configurable OSD is pretty exciting. Removes most of the down-sides of MWOSD, I think. You still need current sensing though, and PDB's with current sensor are a bit rare. I really think it makes the most sense to integrate the OSD into the PDB since the PDB must have current sensing. But Betaflight OSD might change my mind, since it makes configuration so easy. But then you definitely need current sensing in the PDB with a separate wire to the FC and OSD.
My thoughts are pretty similar. But if you consider that current consumed does not really equal flight time (e.g. if one flight is more modest than the last), battery voltage is really the tell-tale and the Omnibus can show you that along with everything else. I think it's a great 90% solution, especially for builds with little room.
Thanks for the reply.
+Jeff Beasley current is important for evaluating battery and ESC performance. For example, if I run one 1300 mAh battery to 15.0 volts and get 1100 mAh, and another battery I get 950 mAh, perhaps the first one is better.
Good point, Joshua. Would you give up the OSD functionality in favor of an integrated PDB + current measurement? At that point you're awfully similar to a DTFc. I'm torn between the two right now...
+Jeff Beasley I'm suspicious of integrated power handling and gyro. It has to be done right to avoid noise. I think that PDB plus osd or PDB plus current sensor and FC plus osd makes the most sense.
Can you please make a video on how to properly calibrate the Current_meter through Cleanflight? I have been searching everywhere on how to calibrate the scale and offset to be accurate. In many of your videos, you mention that the Current draw is important to keep track of during each flight and I would like to have it working properly. Anyways, I have watched almost all of your videos and I learned a lot. Thanks in advance. Happy Flying!
This reference would be a good start.
github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/blob/master/docs/Battery.md#tuning-using-actual-current-measurements
The easiest way to tune current meter is to use a clamp meter or something like the Turnigy 7-in-1 Mega-Meter to measure actual current draw. Then you adjust offset so that amps at zero throttle is correct, and scale so that amps at moderate throttle is correct. The higher throttle you use, the more accurate the reading will be, but it's pretty terrifying to be reading a current meter while your copter is strapped to a table and all four props are going full blast.
In my experience, you have to go back and forth several times, since a very small inaccuracy in current scale will cause a big inaccuracy in offset, and vice versa. Eventually you home in on a correct value.
If you know exactly what current sensor you are using, there may be pre-established correct values on the Internet.
Not having to calibrate current like this is a HUGE reason that I love the RROSD, since it comes pre-calibrated from the factory. The one time that I did it with MWOSD, it was a really hairy experience because I had to spin the props to draw 70 amps while trying to read a current meter.
Much appreciated. I'll look into purchasing a RROSD for my next build.
does PIKO BLX have SPI Gyro?
yes it does. FuriousFPV said SPI on MPU600
There's also...the SirinFPV which is $120 msrp, but it's osd and video TX, blackbox FC. Also works with Six motors something I hope you will not in your great reviews.
the value of a PDB is lessened greatly if you are using the Littlebee pro 4-1 or the newest BLheli_s 4-1 esc. That really expensive FC and the is certainly the fastest build, and the slimmest stack. If you like a black box, it's pretty darn cool. Plus A full 40 channels with 200 or 25 mW controlled through the OSD.
Many of these boards will do six motors, but I reckon the vast, vast majority are flying quads, and that's where my focus is. The Sirin is a hell of a product. Even at that price, it's almost the only thing that does what it does.
+Joshua Bardwell the micro stack of the future will be, either sirin plus 4-1, or ... f4 FC, 4-1 esc, and AND with intergrated OSD and bec/VR/filtering. You need a microcontroller to change 40 channels, so they should just include the OSD, which is inexpensive parts, and the code is already written. Plus selectable output.
I just worry with that much integration, you're out a huge whack if something breaks. I think the modular stack idea, such as TBS Powercube is pushing, and another product I'm aware of that isn't ready for release yet (but soon). The idea should be that you have an OSD, FC, PDB/vReg, etc... all as a stackable module and you can pick and choose what you want. That way if something breaks, you aren't out the whole investment.
+Joshua Bardwell there's a few X designs where the flight stack is not part of camera/top plate. Which actually makes a perfect sense since you want to have vibration isolation.
That should be nearly impossible to break in a micro.
Also once you put (vrx, pololu, osd, bec) together, everything else is inexpensive and available now.
how has the kobini been working for you?
+LONE STAR A.V.I/FPV fine. Too bad it doesn't have an SD car reader.
Do all three have a current sensor?
That's a good question, and I'm a little embarrassed I didn't address it in the video, given how important I think a current sensor is. The DTFc has a current sensor. PIKO BLX does not appear to have one. I can't find an answer for Kombini, but obviously the OSD + FC setup will include current sensing, it's just a question of whether the sensor will be available if you only have the FC and not the OSD.
That's true. If you don't run osd, you dont want or need current sensing. Most of time anymore I run an OSD just for the ability to tune PID's at the field easily. Well along with watching battery voltage but I think I'm a little obsessed with watching the voltage when I just need to fly. Great videos BTW I watch them all.
I disagree with your second sentence. Even if you don't have an OSD, you can have current sensing input to any cleanflight or betaflight FC that has the input pin (and most do). This will allow you to track current consumption via FrSky telemetry, which, although not as good as an OSD in my opinon, is still better than nothing.
+Joshua Bardwell that's true. Didn't think of that.
Just wanted to say that the TS5823 can run off 5v, my friend is doing so.
Man, I would worry about being too close to the low-voltage cutoff and losing video, but I guess if your 5v supply is solid, you're good.
Is the Doge controller in some way related to Dogecoin, the digital currency for shibes and friends?
Not really. They are both named after the famous shiba inu meme.
DTFc doesn't have to be tied to an OSdoge. it has 3 uarts, one for your RX,#3.and 2 for whatever you want. MicroOSD, Blackbox,ect...I don't like the OSDOGe.but I like this board.
I agree. I mean to say, if you have an OSDoge, then DTFc is an obvious choice. But if you have a DTFc, OSDoge is not required.
DYS XBR220 XBR-F3
www.banggood.com/DYS-XBR220-XBR-F3-F3-Flight-Control-2-4S-Integrated-with-OSD-UBED-PDB-p-1066479.html?p=0609202427422013084W
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2697366
It's big on the X/Y axis, but maybe you could zip tie your esc wires the the 'lobes'. You would need a frame to accommodate it. I can't find specs on the gyro though... if it's SPI I would try it out.
not the same. piko is about 3 gramms, kombini - 6 gramms. yours - 23 gramms
+xf0L hole spacement on the Piko is too much of a hassle, and the Kombini also doesn't have an OSD, so more weight, more wire and more work ahead. and of course, the DYS XBR220 is a juggernaut that won't even fit in many builds. look for a HGLRC V3, that's an all in one standard size board that looks almost perfect. i'd rather take a boart without the extension for the battery wire pads though, if there was one. let me know if anyone finds a board like this.
Funny how times have changed
And wait!!! KISS FC has Integrated 500mA 5V BEC (78M05G) 2-6S LiPo compatible. OMG!!!!
no one cares.
Why? Not sure what your game is here.
hey buddy not on its not about this video but I have a problem I need help with I have posted videos on facebook and no resolution so I was wondering if you can go watch my video and see what am I doing wrong please call me appreciate it thank you
Feel free to message me on FB.
+Joshua Bardwell I will and thanks again I am at work as soon as I get home I will check out the information u sent earlier
yo dawg I heard you like pdb's AHAHAH i'm dead
Like a pentium II .
How about some reviews on clones? banggood has what seems to be a great F3 EVO board with SPI gyros (MPU9250) for only $26, if it works as advertised, how can you beat it? www.banggood.com/F3-EVO-Cleanflight-10DOF-Flight-Controller-Oem-Version-for-Multirotor-Racing-with-4G-MicroSD-p-1064058.html
+Phil659 the problem with clones is that you can never know if they are solid or crap. And I could never figure that out on my own just by looking at the specs page. Many of the clones are great. Many of then are defective. It's a gamble to buy them unless you have your ear to the ground and know people aren't having issues.
alienflight.com/f4-hexa-brushless/ there's this too.