I lost my old account over a year ago and i couldnt remember your channels name. What a treat that you popped up on my feed based on me watching other railroad related channels! I absolutely love your layout. Im goimg to binge watch all your videos, Cheers from Austin texas
Thank you for all of your up dates that you are doing to the layout. Also, thank you for the motive power review. One of these days, when I finally quit cutting grass as a side hustle after retirement, I would like to build a layout in my basement.
I'm glad I watched the entire video right from the start. I'm just starting to lay some track, so it reminded me of all the steps necessary to make smooth running tracks. Your motive power roster is beautiful. Thanks for sharing
Good video. Hopefully your helix learnings will help others! Glad you were able to resolve it early. Always enjoy seeing the paint scheme of your engines.
Some how your channel came up on my RUclips feed, what a cool layout. I really need to get back into model railroading, but don't know where to start so much has changed from 20 years ago.
Thanks. Start by making a list of things that you'd like to model. Then identify your available space and a budget. There's help out there ... it's a caring/sharing community.
To save money on cork, buy the cork flooring that comes on a roll. You can source from Floor & Decor, and other retailers. WAY WAY cheaper than buying the midwest stuff. Measuring from the floor induces errors. Floors aren't a truly flat and level plane. Best way seems to be using a laser level to create a datum or reference line somewhere on the walls around the entire layout space. Do check the laser level for error first, BTW. Creating a video like is is humbling, but good content, as it is easy for the beginner to get scared off after dealing with challenges while trying to measure up to what they see in the hobby press.
I looked into the flooring underlay, which is marketed as cork, but it isn't a pure cork material and it has an inconvenient plastic adhesive layer tat I didn't want to deal with. What I am using is still about half the cost of the roadbed foam/cork that is marketed toward the model railroading user. I know my floor isn't purely level but I ma checking my construction with my old bubble level as I go. I didn't want/need to invest in a laser level, though it is cool!
The errors one can make in the construction phase. our former club had a upper and lower section in two areas.one area had a good 3-4 % running grade meaning climbing or descending was fun not to mention limited in cars a engine could handle.
3-4% !!! That's nasty. I have enough to contend with when a train breaks apart and I have a runaway on my 2% helix. Can't imagine that your trains would stay on the rails if they let go!
qnerr... what beautiful stuff !!! aren't gp 38's just fun to watch roll down the tracks with a string of cars ??? at the end of your video the placard said comments are welcome.... well, none really as i am going to watch your video again later tonight !!! any chance of painting the handrails on the qne black fuel tank safety yellow ? that would certainly help workers doing inspections/work on top. even though leading edge work requires a full body harness and secured lanyard tie-off point, here in the states, safety yellow hand and midrails with toe boards are mandatory... not sure about canada but i assume it is the same or very, very close !! blessings to you, qnerr, and please send along more videos !!!
I don't disagree with you. It would match the yellow sanding tower cage and staircase over the fuel tank berm/wall. It's just a pain to paint without getting any yellow the rest of the tank.
@@QNERailroad qnerr... i had the same problem... therefore i used tamiya paint retarder to "thin out" the yellow paint for the handrails and any "small" mistakes that got on the tank i let dry, then covered them up with a flat black color which, just like your tank, was a rather flat, dull black. imho, the yellow would add a lot to your scene on an already beautiful layout !!! the retarder makes the paint flow smoothly with no globs of paint at the handrail intersections... about a 1 to 10 ratio i believe. you could also use a thin piece of paper at just the bases of the vertical rails as a "buffer" preventing minor mistakes. tedious, yes, but it would add more beauty to an already fantastic scene, as i am sure you know !!! many blessings to you, qnerr !!!
Hi Mike. The building is a kitbash of the Pikestuff Car shop and Diesel Shop kits. If you are interested in how it was built, please check out my video #143.
Thank you for asking. Your interest in the Q&NE means a lot to me. Unfortunately, I am not currently interested in selling any of the current fleet, or creating/building new ones for sale.
Very tempting, but I am trying to stick with the 1980's New England regional railroad theme. Like the New England Central and the Central Vermont before it, the Q&NE roster was dominated by GP38's.
Needs a steady hand and a lot of patience to not get any yellow on the stairs. By the way, I checked out some local (very large) rail-served fuel depots in town (Toronto), and they do NOT have yellow railings. Most tanks are white with white handrails and staircases. There's even one with a black staircase!
Lesson number “x”. Every piece of rail, including frogs, should have a dropper. End of story. For long term reliability do not rely on rail joiners to carry power, including putting droppers onto the rail joiners. And do not rely on the switch blades on a turnout to carry power to the frog. One bit of dirt or grime and the frog losses power. Those who get away with it is purely by luck.
The rail joiner droppers was a test and they are in an accessible part of the helix if I run into problems. The rest of the layout has droppers soldered between every pair of flex track sections, so I have no dead rail anywhere. Regarding the turnouts, I guess I have been very lucky over the last 30 years, because I have never had to power any frogs. I can, if it becomes a problem, but it hasn't. I agree with you about the points, but new turnout designs allow power to flow from both ends.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I lost my old account over a year ago and i couldnt remember your channels name. What a treat that you popped up on my feed based on me watching other railroad related channels! I absolutely love your layout. Im goimg to binge watch all your videos, Cheers from Austin texas
Thank you for all of your up dates that you are doing to the layout. Also, thank you for the motive power review. One of these days, when I finally quit cutting grass as a side hustle after retirement, I would like to build a layout in my basement.
Start small ... you don't have to fill the basement all at once!
I'm glad I watched the entire video right from the start. I'm just starting to lay some track, so it reminded me of all the steps necessary to make smooth running tracks. Your motive power roster is beautiful. Thanks for sharing
Thank you. Glad you found it useful.
That is a very impressive power roster
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing Grant. The shot at 33:34 could make a Christmas card.
Yes, it could!
Good video. Hopefully your helix learnings will help others! Glad you were able to resolve it early. Always enjoy seeing the paint scheme of your engines.
Thanks.
Not gonna lie, I'd love to see a QNE RS-11! Hate to see you have a hiccup on the helix but at least it was an early catch. Nice work!
Thanks Tony. The Alcos are a "someday" project. Very tempted by the Bowser RS3's.
Five track helix...wow!
Yup. It doubles as a staging yard and return loop.
Some how your channel came up on my RUclips feed, what a cool layout. I really need to get back into model railroading, but don't know where to start so much has changed from 20 years ago.
Thanks. Start by making a list of things that you'd like to model. Then identify your available space and a budget. There's help out there ... it's a caring/sharing community.
Thank you for sharing this video. I will see previous videos to catch up more.
Enjoy!
I'd like to see all the Corail engines like you showed the others!
I knew someone would ask. Have you seen Video #158? Lots of Conrail action in that one.
Hi Sheldon, Nice video again as usual, glad that you caught the minor glitches sooner than later. Joe
Yeah me too! More mistakes to come, I'm sure.
thx for the explanations of the construction. what a nightmare all of 1/16 of inches... i am happy to work with metric system :)
In Canada, we can work in either measurement system, but most of my audience is more familar with the Imperial system.
To save money on cork, buy the cork flooring that comes on a roll. You can source from Floor & Decor, and other retailers. WAY WAY cheaper than buying the midwest stuff.
Measuring from the floor induces errors. Floors aren't a truly flat and level plane. Best way seems to be using a laser level to create a datum or reference line somewhere on the walls around the entire layout space. Do check the laser level for error first, BTW.
Creating a video like is is humbling, but good content, as it is easy for the beginner to get scared off after dealing with challenges while trying to measure up to what they see in the hobby press.
I looked into the flooring underlay, which is marketed as cork, but it isn't a pure cork material and it has an inconvenient plastic adhesive layer tat I didn't want to deal with. What I am using is still about half the cost of the roadbed foam/cork that is marketed toward the model railroading user. I know my floor isn't purely level but I ma checking my construction with my old bubble level as I go. I didn't want/need to invest in a laser level, though it is cool!
The errors one can make in the construction phase. our former club had a upper and lower section in two areas.one area had a good 3-4 % running grade meaning climbing or descending was fun not to mention limited in cars a engine could handle.
3-4% !!! That's nasty. I have enough to contend with when a train breaks apart and I have a runaway on my 2% helix. Can't imagine that your trains would stay on the rails if they let go!
qnerr... what beautiful stuff !!! aren't gp 38's just fun to watch roll down the tracks with a string of cars ??? at the end of your video the placard said comments are welcome.... well, none really as i am going to watch your video again later tonight !!! any chance of painting the handrails on the qne black fuel tank safety yellow ? that would certainly help workers doing inspections/work on top. even though leading edge work requires a full body harness and secured lanyard tie-off point, here in the states, safety yellow hand and midrails with toe boards are mandatory... not sure about canada but i assume it is the same or very, very close !! blessings to you, qnerr, and please send along more videos !!!
I don't disagree with you. It would match the yellow sanding tower cage and staircase over the fuel tank berm/wall. It's just a pain to paint without getting any yellow the rest of the tank.
@@QNERailroad qnerr... i had the same problem... therefore i used tamiya paint retarder to "thin out" the yellow paint for the handrails and any "small" mistakes that got on the tank i let dry, then covered them up with a flat black color which, just like your tank, was a rather flat, dull black. imho, the yellow would add a lot to your scene on an already beautiful layout !!! the retarder makes the paint flow smoothly with no globs of paint at the handrail intersections... about a 1 to 10 ratio i believe. you could also use a thin piece of paper at just the bases of the vertical rails as a "buffer" preventing minor mistakes. tedious, yes, but it would add more beauty to an already fantastic scene, as i am sure you know !!! many blessings to you, qnerr !!!
What is the kit that makes up the engine shed at the 21:50 mark in the video?
Thank You
Mike
Fairview Park, Ohio Terminal Rail Road
Hi Mike. The building is a kitbash of the Pikestuff Car shop and Diesel Shop kits. If you are interested in how it was built, please check out my video #143.
Are bus lines under the tracks required for bigger layouts?
Bus lines of a lower wire gauge are a good idea, especially for larger layouts, where you have longer distances from the power sources(s).
love it!
Thanks.
Do you sell the engines? I want some to match the rolling stock I bought
Thank you for asking. Your interest in the Q&NE means a lot to me. Unfortunately, I am not currently interested in selling any of the current fleet, or creating/building new ones for sale.
I think the QNE needs some sd40s
Very tempting, but I am trying to stick with the 1980's New England regional railroad theme. Like the New England Central and the Central Vermont before it, the Q&NE roster was dominated by GP38's.
ps qnerr... same goes for the stairway handrails btw !!!
Needs a steady hand and a lot of patience to not get any yellow on the stairs. By the way, I checked out some local (very large) rail-served fuel depots in town (Toronto), and they do NOT have yellow railings. Most tanks are white with white handrails and staircases. There's even one with a black staircase!
HO scalers can learn a lot about soldering track from N scalers. 😅
LOL!
I thought Canadians were metric. Totally lost with all those ntĥs of inches. No worries though, I love your layout.
We are, but those of us who grew up in the 1970's when the Metric system came in are "bilingual".
Lesson number “x”. Every piece of rail, including frogs, should have a dropper. End of story. For long term reliability do not rely on rail joiners to carry power, including putting droppers onto the rail joiners. And do not rely on the switch blades on a turnout to carry power to the frog. One bit of dirt or grime and the frog losses power.
Those who get away with it is purely by luck.
The rail joiner droppers was a test and they are in an accessible part of the helix if I run into problems. The rest of the layout has droppers soldered between every pair of flex track sections, so I have no dead rail anywhere. Regarding the turnouts, I guess I have been very lucky over the last 30 years, because I have never had to power any frogs. I can, if it becomes a problem, but it hasn't. I agree with you about the points, but new turnout designs allow power to flow from both ends.