READ BEFORE COMMENTING: A few people seem to listen to only part of the video, and then they run right to the comment section to tell me "any machine can cut 3D with the right software!" YES, that's what the video says! This video is about the need to find the right software if your machine won't do what you want it to do. I am NOT saying you have to get a whole new machine! I said I got a new one, but I ALSO said I had to upgrade the software on it to carve in 3D. Buy the machine you want. If it does everything you want, great. If not, you may still be able to do it if you find different software. It's all in the video...
Well, you literally state, "This may seem like a simple process that every machine can do, but it's not.", but it is. You clearly seem to be blaming the machine for your problems with the garbage software several times, when all you need is Fusion360, which is FREE!
Funny how you left out the very next sentence "You see, a CNC machine is only as good as the software...." I was CLEARLY saying the software limits the machine. This is what I mean about not listening...
Yes, I'm aware of your explanation and intent, but I wanted to point out that your message at first sounds very accusatory towards the CNC machine. I listened to the entire video before I ever looked at the comments here, and that was the impression that I got, until about half-way through the video. I wasn't trying to twist your words, I was just trying to show how they could have sounded if someone wasn't listening very closely.
There are free open source softwares for 3D modelling. They don't cost you a cent. See below. FreeCAD MeshMixer Blender (very steep learning curve) Drawing softwares. Inkscape MyPaint (my favourite for roughing ideas on digital papers) You can work back and forth between any two or more 3D softwares above, if you stick to OBJ format. You can use Inkscape for 2D design. Inkscape is useful for automatically drawing involute gears. Export files in svg and import them into Blender. I don't know if FreeCAD or MeshMixer recognises SVG import format, as I regularly use Blender. For those using SolidWorks, check out Onshape which comes in three versions. The educational version is free, while others are not. Onshape is very similar to SolidWorks, but offers more tools. If you use SolidWorks, you will immediately feel at home with Onshape.
A correct statement does not make the statements before correct. You said silly things and it has been pointed out. This looks like a paid promotion video to me.
Stumpy: My wife and I just watched this video together. She is quite impressed with seeing CNC carving in process for the first time. She and I both took from this video everything you intended for folks to take away from it. But, I suspect that's because we paid attention. :-)
I purchased my fist cnc Router from practical cnc now APECNC .. 48 x 96 servo machine with 3.5 hp router... I purchased a 5 hp spindle for it after I got 5 feet of sea water in my shop from hurricane IKE.. bought Vectric Aspire ver 1 when it first came out..and now every update to ver 10.. used that machine for 10 years with little or no major problems.. then 2 years ago purchased a ShopSabre 408 Pro with 10 hp spindle and 4th axis rotary.. Yes with aspire you can 3D cut your own spindles and newel post.. Love this shopsabre... If you ever want to upgrade your machine look at them... great customer service and a great machine...
Couple of tips from a metal machinist: Try a software that knows how to do "rest machining", like Fusion360, MasterCAM, SolidCAM. That way you can rough out your workpiece with a flat endmill and you get your large flat areas all done. Then switch to a smaller ball nose cutter to rest machine all those nooks & crannies that the flat endmill didn't get. This way you are not remachining flat areas again, saving tons of hours quickly.
I spent last winder not in the wood shop, for a change, but in the dining room surrounded by stepper motors, arduinos, wiring and an awful lot of soldering tools, a microscope, and so on. In the end I had built my own 3D printer from scratch. Fantastically challenging and rewarding. I’d love to get into building a CNC and/or an etcher/cutter. I have yet to research this and I’m curious and hopeful to see how much of my knowledge and experience in FFM will apply to these other solutions. It took a ton of reading and video watching to arrive at a finished product. Hopefully there are good resources for these, as well.
I have a Shapeoko3 XXL and VCarvePro software. The SO3 is great for the price and would do a great job on the carving in this project. That said, if you use your CNC a lot you will eventually want a larger and stiffer setup with more power so buy the best system you can justify and fit in your shop. CNC routers will soon become the centerpiece of many shops. I have come to value my CNC router as much as any piece of equipment in my shop.
This video is spot on. Fortunately for me, I had plenty of time to do the research as I built my own homebrew CNC router, so by the time it was running, I was already getting in practice with basic software, and had advanced software pretty well picked out. It wasn't long at all before I went ahead and bought a full-on software suite, because my wants and needs immediately outgrew the basic tools. Years, a great deal of wood, and many, many bits and endmills later, I can speak on the subject with considerable authority, (for a hobbyist, at least). I completely agree that most people fall way short on their research when they first buy a router, and that the software is absolutely the "Secret Sauce" that unlocks the real potential of the machine. It absolutely isn't cheap, especially the all-in-one solutions like Vectric Aspire. There are other ways to go about it though. If a steep learning curve is acceptable, there are standalone 3D CAD packages for free, (FreeCAD), and low-cost, (Alibre Atom), that can precisely model anything you can imagine in 3D. Did I mention a steep learning curve? These are both packages meant for engineering and design/manufacture, and there's nothing basic about them, especially to begin with. There are lots of good user-made tutorials out there on RUclips, and perseverance will really pay off. Once CAD is covered, CAM software is needed to compute the toolpaths that will guide the machine as it carves the model. There are a number of standalone CAM packages with various capabilities and pricing. Some basic CAM is built into FreeCAD, but it's not really a fully cooked system. Alibre offers a relatively low-cost bundle with MeshCAM, which is one of the better standalone CAM packages. Another good one is Deskproto, and there are others. The all-in-one solutions, like Vectric Aspire, definitely have usability going for them. They'll get a new user up and running faster, but at the cost of, well, cost. Lots of cost, lol. I hope this will offer some leads to folks looking for software, especially first timers.
I can't imagine what the 432 negative people have against this video. It was straightforward and easy to understand, even for me and I'm shopping. Well done Stumpy
Dang! This is the kind of comment I see whatever the subject of the hobby is. WHy real man are still getting marreid? It's like having a heavy height attached to your ankle everyday!
Why would you need to ask the spouse if you can spend your own money. I'm sure you always make her something on the new toy you get. Plus she spend money you don't know she has.
I found this video very informative, and brought in issues and concepts a person thinking about getting into a CNC device may not know or understand. I appreciate the time it took to present the information, while allowing viewers to decide if the content was probative. We all have our opinions, even if sometimes, listening or reading them, is a not what one hoped.
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Hey Stumpy, Just bumped into this. I spoke to a CNC pro a few days ago. He makes a good living using several CNCs. I asked what software he uses and his reply was "there's a lot of ok and good software out there, but Aspire is the only one I use". His project are way past anything I've seen. Aspire can be downloaded for free. I'm sure it's limited and expires after a bit. Thanks again for what you do!
You're absolutely correct, do your homework on your purchases this can be said for all tools. If you're just starting out then yes buy the cheap stuff to make sure this is what you want to do.
3D Carving is definitely more about the software than the machine. Any 3 Axis CNC machine will cut 3D as long as it is fed the right instructions via the G-Code file. Aspire is an awesome program but for those without that budget can get Vetrics V-Carve Pro and still cut 3D files... they just wont have the robust modeling tools available. Good to see another woodworker showing how this is just another tool in the shop. Keep up the good work!
Right, it's almost like a two-part purchase. You need the right machine (heavy duty enough to do the work you plan to do, and with the quality parts that will last) AND you need to right software (user friendly, bug-free, and with the features and capabilities you require). Small-shop CNC woodworking is still a relatively new thing, and there's a lot of confusion out there. I recommend people find someone online who is doing the sort of work they want to do, and talk to them about the pros and cons of the stuff they're using. Then find someone else and ask them the same. When you're spending a lot of money on something, it's worth taking the time to be sure!
I completely agree and there is a pretty decent sized community of hobby CNCist out there who are very welcome to share their experiences. Some of these guys have been doing it in their shops for over a decade.
V-carve desktop will do it too. If your bed is 24 inches square or smaller V-carve desktop is far cheaper than the pro version. I often use fusion 360 if I need TRUE 3d stuff. Its a true 3d solid modeling program thats in the class of whats used to make state of the art military and commercial aircraft. Has a serious learning curve but Ive been using this type of program for years so i was a natural for me. It will also create the g-code in the same program. Free for hobby use... thousands of bucks for commercial use...
5:10 Looks like it's time for you to go...? No way! It's time for you to fix that clock, as it's running backwards! ;) Anyway, greetings from Portugal.
Thanks for explaining 3D vs 2.5D in the CNC context. I was vaguely aware of the concept without the name. 30 years ago, a friend was working in a set construction shop and she invited me to come see the latest machine they acquired. It was a CNC panel router they had acquired for a specific movie production. They needed to make temple walls with carved out text (bas relief I think was the word used) but they were using forced perspective to make the temple set look bigger than it really was. It was described to me as being a giant printer with a router as the print head. I remember they were using Adobe illustrator to distort the postscript text. They hired a programmer to write the bridge software between illustrator and the CNC software. There was a lot of finishing by hand, but the panel router saved a lot of time and the movie had a pretty big budget. Hitting deadlines was critical. Iirc, the cost was in the tens of thousands-north of 50k.
I worked for two years on an industrial 300 000 dollars cnc machine that mills all sort of metal and you just made me realise that the software of our workshop does only 2,5D milling 🤯
Thank you. I bought a bargain CNC so I could see if I really wanted to go further into the technology. Just starting up now. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for your video and input. Software is very important in giving you control. Cheaper versions reduce your options. Moc3 is professional but costs 10k with yearly fees. Fission 360 is a great program but has a harsh learning curve and requires a good PC processor. All machines have limitations for speed or accuracy. 3d printers are fairly cheap, versatile with great detail. They are not fast or made for production, but great learning tool. You can not just buy a machine and expect too much with out a lot of study.
Absolutely right , most hobbyists start with a 3018 and use carbide and easel but have no real idea after they have used it for a year whats next, just to let you know so far I have invested 2500 in my own open builds machine , Lead screw water cooled spindle and nearly another 2 k in software You need to shelve out real money if you want to CNC properly not 500 GBP/USD low thousands for something decent and 7.5K for a brilliant setup. DIY 4/5K will cover it with quality materials and software for a 2 metre by 1 metre bed. Not Shapeoko thats a hobbyists toy as is Inventables they are part time machines at 2 k and both without proper software, Easel is ok and is Carbide but both have problems and are not true 3d. So people bear that in mind, 3018's teach you grbl to a point but Vectric IMHO is the best which is why is so expensive because it works, its relatively easy to use after you train and because you paid for it you can get all the goodies and free projects that they send out and you can make stuff that will sell and you can recover your costs and make a profitable business.. There are makers versions of Vectric which are cheaper but size limited so bear that in mind if you want unlimited size and the goodies you need to pay for the full pack. If you want to produce good quality work you have to pay the price for the machine , software and bits
I concur, software is critical.I started out as a high school wood shop teach and put the first cnc in the shop. I found cnc more challenging then learning a conventional tool. Anyway, wood working takes sequential steps, process, precision, complexity. This whole debate regarding is cnc wood working etc, is silly. You can have fun wittling or you can have fun with a cnc.
to 3D carve you need a 3d model. If you can't design something complex by yourself hire someone to do it or indeed you can quit. The software is not the main concern. You can CAM just about anything if you have the CAD :)
James, (aka Stumpy) Thanks for the insight you have gained. The cost of even an inexpensive cnc and the additional costs as well as the learning curve will probably keep it out of my hands. Sometime you get a great deal but often you get what you pay for." And sometimes you get scammed ( that you has been me. NO LOL here)
Hey Stumpy- good intro video- thanks- I think a lot of folks that are commenting are basically looking at CNC through different applications AND perspectives- most folks "get" the video but it doesn't "click" with their perspective/application... most successful videos highlight pros/cons as well as a couple of different formats/applications so the confusion is mitigated to application vs need only. Overall I like the channel and like the CNC presentation- good job! Maybe do a video on why you chose the product you did- let us see your pro/con and application/solution process- then it will be a LOT clearer! Ciao!
It’s interesting reading comments from different sources for the same machine, some are great, some terrible. In programming we have a term “Do what I mean, not what I say”. I’m wondering if that is what is happening here, with the reviews? So the question is does the device follow the instructions programmed, and if so does it perform within specifications? I expect my machine to carve a design in to wood to a depth of 1/2”. Both software & hardware must meet that requirement. It does not need to construct Terminator 2.
Hi - Enjoying the good info in your vids. Just a comment on your hold-down method of 4 nails. If you're using an up-cut mill, especially on hardwood, the vibration and upward force exerted by the mill can shake and pull your piece loose and suck it up onto the bit, destroying your project. I trashed a $25 hickory board because my hold-down screws weren't far enough into the spoil board. Gave the spindle a good shake as well when it tore loose. So hold 'em down secure. Thx.
I've also seen some videos about making your own CNC machine at home and some piece of software that looks good and professional: Mach 4 software. Seems to be able to do anything, even import JPG/BMP files directly and use the greyscale to determine the depth of carving. When I'm ready to build my own, I'll certainly gonna try the Mach 4 software, the full version is only 200 euros.
Yup really cool stuff these cnc machine are. Alot of the 2.5d to 3d wood working is affected by the toolset / router bits you choose to use. As you mentioned at the end of your video. I say just look at the different baseboard or crown molding decoration shapes and you can see this on a large scale. The all you have to do is imagine shrinking it down to a small scale.
I saw your video before completing to construct my CNC machine, and honestly, I was a bit scared . Now after 7 months of work and more then 7000 Eur. invested, I have to tell you this:Milling 3D is easy. It is all about the software, as long as the machine is strong and settings are correct. No big deal, man.
Nice vid, Also I think you have created a time machine, At 5:09 your second hand on the clock starts going backwards. kewl :) Edit. I have read other post's and other have said same thing .
I scored a complete fully licensed copy of Mastercam9, including the mill, lathe, router, edm, multi-axis, solids, design, and metacut utilities, including the dongle for my computer when my company was bought out a few years back.. It doesn't get any better.....
I love your videos generally but I prefer to spend my time working wood, not programming. I'm not a hand tool purist; although most of what people see in my end result is hand work, I do use a table saw, jointer and planer, etc. to do the 'apprentice' work. I've even been known to use the table saw for cutting repeated tenons (most recent project had 72 of them in one piece). So please don't consider this a howl from the Luddite fringe. But to my mind, somewhere you cross the line from woodworker to machine operator. Perhaps this is not the forum for this discussion but at some point I'd like the content creators to realize that CNC work is a departure from what I came here to see and presumably, what built your channel. Best wishes and looking forward to more woodworking.
ANY 3 axis cnc is capable of true 3d but as pointed out in the video its all in the software. There is a number of 3d capable programs out there such as Vectrics aspire and V-carve. V carve WILL cut a true 3d but you cannot create 3d stuff within it. Aspire does both. These programs include a huge number of post procesors that converts from the program to some specific CNC controller. G-code is not exactly universal as claimed. Many machines have some features such as tool changers and so on. Just use the post processor that is made for your setup. I use v-carve desktop for say half of what I do even where I need true 3d. I just create the model in another program and import it in to v-carve. That being said you need to stay away from the el-chepo cncs around for anything more than basic simple hobby stuff. Typically for the smaller ones about half the cost is the cnc and the other is the software. For most you can easily upgrade the software part but you will be stuck with the controller program unless you are very experenced in digital electronics and have a good background in programming. My personal take on a cnc --- The best tool I have in the shop. If I had to choose between my home brew cnc or the table saw -- the table saw would be history. I use it for all sorts of things from just making oddball weird shaped holes, making hooles where there is no standard drillbit made for the size I need. Sometimes Ill slap a chunk of some firewood on it, mill off a flat spot and carve something in it.. Often I wind up with some wood that is shaped something close to an airplane prop and I want it dead flat and parallel. Usually its too small to run through a thickness planer or deal with safely on a table saw. I just clamp it down on the cnc with shims to get it stable then mill off one face., flip it over and do the same taking it right down to the thickness I want. At the same time ill run a pass along one side and an end. I wind up with stock with a KNOWN square corner and a straight side and end. I work with a lot of wood that goes for about $20 a board foot and up. WELL worth the time to "fix" bad chunks of it. As far as CNC goes in woodworking. Its just another tool. If youre a crap woodworker the cnc will turn out crap work. Same goes if youre a real craftsman.. you will get top of the line results. A cnc can produce 3d stuff thats almost impossible to tell from hand carved by eye. Its all in the skill level used in the cad/cam side. For those that want to stay with "traditional" non power tool woodworking go for it. Theres plenty of room for everybody's slant on making sawdust. My little CNC is a total home brew, no plans either. It can hold within5 thou across 2 feet if I run it slower but it can run rapids in the 250 IPM range . Stout enough to snap a quarter inch bit clean into hitting a clamp without loosing steps. Close to the same size as the one in the video and has comparable specs. Controller software is Mach 3 running on a 15 year old desktop. That desktop still runs faster than this 2 year old laptop. Ignoring the old desktop, I got right at $500 in it including Mach 3. I played around with a shark, nice machine but I DESPISE the controller software. I DONT need all the hand holding but I understand why its that way --- PRODUCT LIABILITY issues. Mach 3 or 4 are FAR better controller programs. Sharks now come with a version of Vetrics V-carve from what Ive been told. So using the same V-carve at right at $350 ( best I rember) my total cost is in the $800 to $900 range. Now That dont include labor either. For those that dont have the skillset or ability to make a CNC themselves the Shark in the video is one of the 2 In that size range I have NO problem recommending even though I despise the controller software. Good solid cnc with good support.
yes, cheaper machines with cheaper software was all i could afford. so i bought it, made signs and nametags and such simpler projects wich i sold so i could buy the expensive software and upgrade my machine. buying cheaper is not always bad. it got my business going.
i am in the same boat but just leaving the dock, the machine is up and running using linuxcnc but not really making anything of consequence as of yet, any tips on software, projects... ect??
It's still 2.5D carving despite having nice contours. A full 3D would carve the bottom as well. Missing half an axis is why it is always 2.5D with a XYZ machine.
That's splitting hairs. Generally in the industry if you are making swooping curves it is considered 3D Example, a V carved sign or a sign with letters raised off the background or cut in with a straight bit is definitely 2.5D. A lions head carved with a ball nose bit would be 3D.
@@sandmandave2008 I think for true 3D, you would need multiple axes. I'm no expert but everything I've seen and heard has called this milling process 2.5D as the entire back portion is flat and inaccessible. Saying this is analogous to, lets say, a bust or statute that is truly three-dimensional would be inaccurate. Just my 2 pennies.
@@lvlikeyV I still believe it's splitting hairs. All of the model makers call their reliefs 3D models and V carved files are 2.5D models. So what if you carve a perfect cube on a 3 axis CNC? You end up with a full 3D model. It doesn't become a 2.5 D model because the back side is flat. Many objects can have a flat back. That doesn't automatically strike them from being a 3D model. But thanks for the comment.
It's also absolutely worth learning to program efficient toolpaths, doing large flat shapes like this with like 0.5mm stepover is a total waste of time. You can program this is 2 minutes and have 2 hours machining time, or program for 15 minutes and save perhaps a good hour on machining
Great video Stumpy Nubs! Thank you for your kind words and spreading good to know tips before purchasing a CNC and software to go with it. Your Zipper clock project came out amazing! 🙌
2.5 axis carving is a limitation of your machine of moving only 2 axis at the same time. Good CAM software will usually overcome this limitation by creating 2 axis G1 lines that gives the same results as a true 3 axis machine (or realy similar results). The piece you carved in this video is done in X layer, cutting in 2D on the Y and Z axis. this can be done on a shapeoko with grbl arduino controler... but the piece won't fit the work area of a shapeoko :) If your machine talk Gcode you can do anything, all you need is the right CAM software.
You just had a peek into the rabbit hole 2.5D machining is ( Yes, its still called 2.5D as normal cuts are commonly referred to as 2D ) You now know that there are hundreds of gcode generators that create 2.5D toolpaths. But did you wonder at one point why your machine is cutting so slowly and nearly grinds to a halt on z level changes ? Thats were all the fun and the sleepless nights start.
My first generation x-carve is perfectly capable of 3D carving. I am able to do it it both Fusion 360 (free) and ArtCAM (Picked up for $150 for a year sub) There are options out there. You just have to be willing to learn and research how it can be done.
it seems that you have set very low max speed on the z-axis... push it more up and u gonna save lots of mins... the lead-screw u have on the z... can handle great speeds... nice video :)
That looked like a soft wood you were working with. Will the machine work with hard woods? I have a sawmill business and only mill hardwood, mostly black walnut.
sure like your video and your advises . Please could you tell me the name of your cnc machine and the software that you are using. I am in the market to buy one and it's new with me , I never work with cnc before. Thank you much for your time and your advises , regards Germain
Hi, just started looking at CNBC machines. Your info was excellent, hadn't thought at all about 3D. Could I ask what hardness of wood do the cnc machines cope. Am a wrinkly getting into wood carving, suffering the joys of arthritis, and I have no great experience with wood other than DIY, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated......Bill 😎
@@robbiejames1540 Wow... thanks for responding. My comment was from 2 years ago. I have forgotten what I was wanting to know...... CNC machines are amazing to watch.... thanks...
My boss just bought a CNC machine that the company just came out with. Their software is the worst I have ever seen. $30,000 doller CNC machine with $2 software on it. The software always freezes and gives a code that I have to call in becouse it dosn't even have a help section to look up codes. When I ask about no help button in the software they just tell me its coming SOON, famous last words. You are spot on about having good software as I spend many hrs. fighting this CNC machine to produce product. The machine itself is very well built but that does not get the job done. The worst part about it is I think my Boss thinks I don't know what I am doing.
I totally get what you're saying, but with fusion360 being free for all hobbyists and low-income companies, the software doesn't really feel like such a big limitation anymore :)
@Stumpy Nubs Yes, but he's also making the point that Fusion 360 is free (at least for any hobbyist, who seems to be the target audience for your video). and you do make it seem like good software can only be had for money and/or all free software is just "simple". I would even go so far as to say it's overkill and/or too complicated (powerful) for many hobby projects.
@@LG-ro5le Yes, it's free for peronal/hobby use and not time limited. They might of course at some point in the future stop this offer though. You need to renew the licence once per year I think, but that's also normal/official. It's also NOT a trial, and distinctly different from their trial offer. Their trial is the fully featured subscription/paid version, just a free 30 days of it (non-renewable of course), and available to businesses. The personal/hobby version is limited in features, tailored to what hobbyist are expected to reasonably need (and to avoid abuse from business users who don't want to pay).
Thank you very much for the great video. What exact machine and software are you using in the video? Would you upgrade to another, if so why. Thanks again 😁
I built transmissions for largest grossing shops for the last 40 years in Houston. I was wondering what a price would be to invest for a set up like yours in the video above.Scanning the links you provided for amazon above I'm guessing cnc, software, vacuum set up , tables and other tools and optional stuff $5-6 K to set up a pretty decent setup. Would that be close ? I know it depends what you want to make and how deep you want to go. I agree that its a waste to buy base model setups and better to invest a little more into the operation with better equipment / tools. Same thing with transmissions. I learned fast to leave cheap tools alone and buy Snap on tools. With right set up you can continue challenging yourself.
I am using the CNC Shark. It comes with pretty good software that will work for 2-D work (V-Carve Desktop). The 3-D software (Aspire) is more expensive if you want to do more detailed carvings.
Starting with G-code designed for your machine is one thing, but taking a 3D stl file through Vectric and out to G-code is another matter.One of the things your viewers should be warned about is that Vectric and other CNC packages don't always create the best toolpaths for a given design. If the viewer is serious about creating 3D designs I recommend using 2 or 3 software packages to create toolpaths from a single 3d design. These can then be previewed and compared for run, time. The user will likely see quite a lot of variation. I am frequently frustrated by how long the generated toolpaths take to turn out even the simplest of shapes.Many CAM packages can be run in evaluation mode for free. Vectric is that way as is Fusion 360.Aspire is nice for its ability to create the 3d designs. However, there are many sources for 3d designs given the explosion in 3d printing. Many 3d print designs can be sent to a mill with little or no modification.Finally, there are many paths to creating one's own stl files. Windows 10 ships with 3d builder. There are also Tinkercad and Fusion 360.Be warned, there is a serious learning curve for working withn3d designs.
Autodesk Fusion 360 has everything that Aspire has for about $2000 less (non commercial use). You should check it out. For hobbyists just starting out? It cannot be beat!
With the knowledge and experience you have gained over time maybe you can provide some insight. Any reply appreciated. What CNC router / carver and software would be sufficient to produce guitar and banjo necks for a start up business? Maybe it's cheaper to just get a tool path for items in a data form I can hand to a business with the equipment they can plug into Thier computer and go???
Hi James, I am ready to purchase my first CNC. Many THANKS for the effort and time you put in to make us more informed in the decision process. I have narrowed my CNC brand to either the Shark HD or the Axiom. As for the software, Vcarve then upgrade to Aspire within 1 year of purchase to further reduce intitial budget constraints. Your thoughts on why you decided on the Shark HD verses other brands (Axiom).
Any 3 axis CNC should be able to do 'true' 3D carving but for my home made machine I've had problems finding free software. I use F-engrave which is simple but works well. At work I use Power mill by Delcam which works fantastic on my 5 axis miller but is very expensive.
I’m pretty new to your channel and this seems to be the most recent one on CNC machines. I was wondering do you have any opinions or experience with shaper origin? Also, thanks for all the great content. You and the wood working for mere mortals channel have really helped me in my woodworking hobby.
technically you are still 2.5D with a CNC machine that cannot cut underhangs and voids, like 4 and 5 axis machines can. But I totally agree about the software.
Hi, James. So two years later, whats out there as far as new machines? Definitely want to do real three d. I'm ready to get started. So many choices. What would your dream machine be if you had to do it today for about 5 grand? Thanks. Big fan.
Great video. Best part [in kind]: Knowing specifically what you want and knowing how to get there before you invest. In short; Invest your time first! Respect!
Can you make a video on your setup? Or please link one if you already did it I'm looking at making a wood shop in a year or so from now. One of the things I liked about your setup is the TV that showed what was going on at that time, and I think I might do the same. Anyways, I think when I make my shop I will have 2 CNC machines. 1 like what you have and another being a rotary. I'm also going to have a laser cutter/engraver. And the normal stuff. I'm going to have some metal working parts in the mix. Things like brake, cutters, and so on. Part of the shop will be section off. In it's own room I will have a 3D printer area. I already have this one, but filament can't stand humidity so I'm giving it it's own space. I'm also going to have a workstation/desk in both areas. Something I'm wondering is how did you get your TV to show where you're at in your project. I know with my 3D printer, I might need an extra Pi or something since I don't think Octoprint works directly with any monitor.
Before you leave a comment that "CNC is not woodworking", watch this video that covers that controversial subject: ruclips.net/video/BHKgoABLNLI/видео.html
Stumpy Nubs agree when we frist started it was crazy. I was lost but software is all of it well alot of it. I swore i need a 4th axis or no 3d untill messed with different software. Great video
CNC use is woodworking,,,when used for shaping wood...Very good for refining ones typing skills and little else that enhances ones eye hand skills. Now that's a fact and in itself is a drawback in that respect.. I can understand how one drawers that conclusion,,,BUT,,being a purist has a price. That being not being able to achieve ones objective. I wish I could go back in time to when my " joints " were in good shape,,lol...My shop has a jointer and a planer to get to s4s and many hand planes are not used anymore for that end.. Same go's for utilizing a CNC machine..Will I ever buy one? That's unlikely but things change..For me,being retired over 20 years time is not money,not do I have any deadlines nor the obligations that younger folks have to meet.....I think they're wonderful machines pretty much as folks felt with table saws...Purist can have their sharp stones to woodwork a stick into a spear if that tickles their fancy...The question is why limit oneself and that deserves an answer....
Very informational!...More education!...Just finished my Fusion 360 class...looking for a machine. I am looking for a machine for headstock and neck MoP inlay, so my scale is very small. I am looking @ 3018 as a first machine..any recommendations?????
What are some of the better machine you are talking about. Our company is still small and starting out. We are wanting to make dice boxes and clocks. Aswell as expand on our dice towers. We use Solidworks for our design platform.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I'm on a fixed budget and the Mrs. gives me a hard stare when In talk about getting a CNC. Can you recommend a CNC that will work with metal and wood. Thanks again.
Great video. X Carve says their machine only does Flat carving, not sculpting. For that they recommended a better software. Their software can't do the sculpting. What software would you recommend for something like the X-Carve? Thanks
No, he said he bought a machine that was more robust than his first one. The 3D creation software has noting to do with any particular machine, all you need is for the post processor to generate the proper G code for the particular software your CNC machine uses to run whether it be proprietary software or something like Mach 3. What he stated is that machines that come with software included are usually not very powerful. I think he bought a more robust machine because of the type of 3D carving he wanted to do. I know guys with table top models where in cutting wood, they are pretty much maxed out at 40 ipm because of the rigidity oy the machine and the horsepower of the router, whereas I carve 3D on my machine at 150 ipm since it's a big rigid machine with a 5 hp spindle. Some guys have spindles up to 12 hp and cut at speeds of 300 ipm or more. The main point of this article is to make you aware that machines with FREE software will be extremely limited and the more you spend on a machine, the better chance you have of getting better software. My router ($12,000) came with Mach 3 to run the router and V Carve software for making 2.5 D models. My 3D creation software was $7000.
I need your expert opinion. My back limits what I can do. I want to make cabinet doors, table tops and what not with designs cut into them. Nothing fancy. Nature scenes maybe the occasional skyline or flowers or something like that. What would you recommend I use? Mind you I need something I can put the board in and walk away. All I need is it carved into wood. I don't need 3D at all for what I'm planning.
2.5D is 3D shapes cut as layers with a constant z step (only x/y movement per layer), this is 3D here as you can see the cutter is going up/down along the shapes
I really like the look of the screen above the router. Is it useable as a workstation in that configuration? I'd like to do away with the cart next to my machine, but my current monitor would be too small to see from over the router. I only use the pic now to run the router, but the bigger screen might be nice to have a second pic in shop for quick drawing work, or a web search.
It's just a VIzio HD television I used to have int he house. The older flat screen TV's used to cut off the edges when used as computer monitors. But the newer (last five years) are better. They aren't great for gaming or anything, because the response time of a television is different from a computer monitor, but it works great for the shop. My table saw is also near it, so I can put up a Sketchup model and use a wireless mouse to rotate it, take measurements, etc. while I cut my parts. And since it uses an HDMI cable, the computer can be far away from it (as long as my wireless mouse and keyboard signal can reach it.)
![Quando Rondo - Life Goes On [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eIf3fhMXAow/mqdefault.jpg)
READ BEFORE COMMENTING: A few people seem to listen to only part of the video, and then they run right to the comment section to tell me "any machine can cut 3D with the right software!" YES, that's what the video says! This video is about the need to find the right software if your machine won't do what you want it to do. I am NOT saying you have to get a whole new machine! I said I got a new one, but I ALSO said I had to upgrade the software on it to carve in 3D. Buy the machine you want. If it does everything you want, great. If not, you may still be able to do it if you find different software. It's all in the video...
Well, you literally state, "This may seem like a simple process that every machine can do, but it's not.", but it is. You clearly seem to be blaming the machine for your problems with the garbage software several times, when all you need is Fusion360, which is FREE!
Funny how you left out the very next sentence "You see, a CNC machine is only as good as the software...." I was CLEARLY saying the software limits the machine. This is what I mean about not listening...
Yes, I'm aware of your explanation and intent, but I wanted to point out that your message at first sounds very accusatory towards the CNC machine. I listened to the entire video before I ever looked at the comments here, and that was the impression that I got, until about half-way through the video.
I wasn't trying to twist your words, I was just trying to show how they could have sounded if someone wasn't listening very closely.
There are free open source softwares for 3D modelling. They don't cost you a cent. See below.
FreeCAD
MeshMixer
Blender (very steep learning curve)
Drawing softwares.
Inkscape
MyPaint (my favourite for roughing ideas on digital papers)
You can work back and forth between any two or more 3D softwares above, if you stick to OBJ format.
You can use Inkscape for 2D design. Inkscape is useful for automatically drawing involute gears. Export files in svg and import them into Blender. I don't know if FreeCAD or MeshMixer recognises SVG import format, as I regularly use Blender.
For those using SolidWorks, check out Onshape which comes in three versions. The educational version is free, while others are not. Onshape is very similar to SolidWorks, but offers more tools. If you use SolidWorks, you will immediately feel at home with Onshape.
A correct statement does not make the statements before correct. You said silly things and it has been pointed out. This looks like a paid promotion video to me.
Stumpy: My wife and I just watched this video together. She is quite impressed with seeing CNC carving in process for the first time. She and I both took from this video everything you intended for folks to take away from it. But, I suspect that's because we paid attention. :-)
I purchased my fist cnc Router from practical cnc now APECNC .. 48 x 96 servo machine with 3.5 hp router... I purchased a 5 hp spindle for it after I got 5 feet of sea water in my shop from hurricane IKE.. bought Vectric Aspire ver 1 when it first came out..and now every update to ver 10.. used that machine for 10 years with little or no major problems.. then 2 years ago purchased a ShopSabre 408 Pro with 10 hp spindle and 4th axis rotary.. Yes with aspire you can 3D cut your own spindles and newel post.. Love this shopsabre... If you ever want to upgrade your machine look at them... great customer service and a great machine...
Couple of tips from a metal machinist: Try a software that knows how to do "rest machining", like Fusion360, MasterCAM, SolidCAM. That way you can rough out your workpiece with a flat endmill and you get your large flat areas all done. Then switch to a smaller ball nose cutter to rest machine all those nooks & crannies that the flat endmill didn't get. This way you are not remachining flat areas again, saving tons of hours quickly.
I spent last winder not in the wood shop, for a change, but in the dining room surrounded by stepper motors, arduinos, wiring and an awful lot of soldering tools, a microscope, and so on. In the end I had built my own 3D printer from scratch. Fantastically challenging and rewarding. I’d love to get into building a CNC and/or an etcher/cutter. I have yet to research this and I’m curious and hopeful to see how much of my knowledge and experience in FFM will apply to these other solutions. It took a ton of reading and video watching to arrive at a finished product. Hopefully there are good resources for these, as well.
I have a Shapeoko3 XXL and VCarvePro software. The SO3 is great for the price and would do a great job on the carving in this project.
That said, if you use your CNC a lot you will eventually want a larger and stiffer setup with more power so buy the best system you can justify and fit in your shop. CNC routers will soon become the centerpiece of many shops. I have come to value my CNC router as much as any piece of equipment in my shop.
Tony Shulthise - I just watched this and read your comment. Hiw is the shapeoko holding up and would you still recommend it?
This video is spot on. Fortunately for me, I had plenty of time to do the research as I built my own homebrew CNC router, so by the time it was running, I was already getting in practice with basic software, and had advanced software pretty well picked out.
It wasn't long at all before I went ahead and bought a full-on software suite, because my wants and needs immediately outgrew the basic tools. Years, a great deal of wood, and many, many bits and endmills later, I can speak on the subject with considerable authority, (for a hobbyist, at least). I completely agree that most people fall way short on their research when they first buy a router, and that the software is absolutely the "Secret Sauce" that unlocks the real potential of the machine. It absolutely isn't cheap, especially the all-in-one solutions like Vectric Aspire.
There are other ways to go about it though. If a steep learning curve is acceptable, there are standalone 3D CAD packages for free, (FreeCAD), and low-cost, (Alibre Atom), that can precisely model anything you can imagine in 3D. Did I mention a steep learning curve? These are both packages meant for engineering and design/manufacture, and there's nothing basic about them, especially to begin with. There are lots of good user-made tutorials out there on RUclips, and perseverance will really pay off.
Once CAD is covered, CAM software is needed to compute the toolpaths that will guide the machine as it carves the model. There are a number of standalone CAM packages with various capabilities and pricing. Some basic CAM is built into FreeCAD, but it's not really a fully cooked system. Alibre offers a relatively low-cost bundle with MeshCAM, which is one of the better standalone CAM packages. Another good one is Deskproto, and there are others.
The all-in-one solutions, like Vectric Aspire, definitely have usability going for them. They'll get a new user up and running faster, but at the cost of, well, cost. Lots of cost, lol. I hope this will offer some leads to folks looking for software, especially first timers.
I can't imagine what the 432 negative people have against this video. It was straightforward and easy to understand, even for me and I'm shopping. Well done Stumpy
551 now
They’re just shattered they don’t have one, or, they don’t have a high end one.
Sucks to be them 💀
“It’s hard enough getting any approval for a purchase of a machine like this from the spouse” - so very true 👍😂😂
N A it’s because your spouse feeds your family. So technically you are a wife 😄
@@mailtome7654 makes no sense
Dang! This is the kind of comment I see whatever the subject of the hobby is. WHy real man are still getting marreid? It's like having a heavy height attached to your ankle everyday!
Why would you need to ask the spouse if you can spend your own money. I'm sure you always make her something on the new toy you get. Plus she spend money you don't know she has.
I didn't approve of my husband buying me a $17,000 embroidery machine but he did anyway. If he was still living I would buy him (me) a CNC machine.
I found this video very informative, and brought in issues and concepts a person thinking about getting into a CNC device may not know or understand. I appreciate the time it took to present the information, while allowing viewers to decide if the content was probative. We all have our opinions, even if sometimes, listening or reading them, is a not what one hoped.
Nicole Zhang
1秒前
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Hey Stumpy,
Just bumped into this. I spoke to a CNC pro a few days ago. He makes a good living using several CNCs. I asked what software he uses and his reply was "there's a lot of ok and good software out there, but Aspire is the only one I use". His project are way past anything I've seen. Aspire can be downloaded for free. I'm sure it's limited and expires after a bit.
Thanks again for what you do!
Boy how fast things have changed. In only a few years, now even the cheapest CNCs can do a decent job of 3D carving as long as the right bits are used
You're absolutely correct, do your homework on your purchases this can be said for all tools. If you're just starting out then yes buy the cheap stuff to make sure this is what you want to do.
3D Carving is definitely more about the software than the machine. Any 3 Axis CNC machine will cut 3D as long as it is fed the right instructions via the G-Code file. Aspire is an awesome program but for those without that budget can get Vetrics V-Carve Pro and still cut 3D files... they just wont have the robust modeling tools available. Good to see another woodworker showing how this is just another tool in the shop. Keep up the good work!
Right, it's almost like a two-part purchase. You need the right machine (heavy duty enough to do the work you plan to do, and with the quality parts that will last) AND you need to right software (user friendly, bug-free, and with the features and capabilities you require). Small-shop CNC woodworking is still a relatively new thing, and there's a lot of confusion out there. I recommend people find someone online who is doing the sort of work they want to do, and talk to them about the pros and cons of the stuff they're using. Then find someone else and ask them the same. When you're spending a lot of money on something, it's worth taking the time to be sure!
I completely agree and there is a pretty decent sized community of hobby CNCist out there who are very welcome to share their experiences. Some of these guys have been doing it in their shops for over a decade.
V-carve desktop will do it too. If your bed is 24 inches square or smaller V-carve desktop is far cheaper than the pro version. I often use fusion 360 if I need TRUE 3d stuff. Its a true 3d solid modeling program thats in the class of whats used to make state of the art military and commercial aircraft. Has a serious learning curve but Ive been using this type of program for years so i was a natural for me. It will also create the g-code in the same program. Free for hobby use... thousands of bucks for commercial use...
Can you please suggest me what are the different types of software we can use for CNC wood carving.
Good sir
5:10 Looks like it's time for you to go...?
No way! It's time for you to fix that clock, as it's running backwards! ;)
Anyway, greetings from Portugal.
Thanks for the video. The project shown was also stacked 2.5D.
Thanks for explaining 3D vs 2.5D in the CNC context. I was vaguely aware of the concept without the name.
30 years ago, a friend was working in a set construction shop and she invited me to come see the latest machine they acquired. It was a CNC panel router they had acquired for a specific movie production. They needed to make temple walls with carved out text (bas relief I think was the word used) but they were using forced perspective to make the temple set look bigger than it really was. It was described to me as being a giant printer with a router as the print head. I remember they were using Adobe illustrator to distort the postscript text. They hired a programmer to write the bridge software between illustrator and the CNC software. There was a lot of finishing by hand, but the panel router saved a lot of time and the movie had a pretty big budget. Hitting deadlines was critical. Iirc, the cost was in the tens of thousands-north of 50k.
I worked for two years on an industrial 300 000 dollars cnc machine that mills all sort of metal and you just made me realise that the software of our workshop does only 2,5D milling 🤯
Thank you. I bought a bargain CNC so I could see if I really wanted to go further into the technology. Just starting up now. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for this. The Shark is what I'm planning to buy, and this is the best video of it in operation that I've seen.
bk
Thanks for your video and input. Software is very important in giving you control. Cheaper versions reduce your options. Moc3 is professional but costs 10k with yearly fees. Fission 360 is a great program but has a harsh learning curve and requires a good PC processor. All machines have limitations for speed or accuracy. 3d printers are fairly cheap, versatile with great detail. They are not fast or made for production, but great learning tool. You can not just buy a machine and expect too much with out a lot of study.
Absolutely right , most hobbyists start with a 3018 and use carbide and easel but have no real idea after they have used it for a year whats next, just to let you know so far I have invested 2500 in my own open builds machine , Lead screw water cooled spindle and nearly another 2 k in software You need to shelve out real money if you want to CNC properly not 500 GBP/USD low thousands for something decent and 7.5K for a brilliant setup. DIY 4/5K will cover it with quality materials and software for a 2 metre by 1 metre bed. Not Shapeoko thats a hobbyists toy as is Inventables they are part time machines at 2 k and both without proper software, Easel is ok and is Carbide but both have problems and are not true 3d.
So people bear that in mind, 3018's teach you grbl to a point but Vectric IMHO is the best which is why is so expensive because it works, its relatively easy to use after you train and because you paid for it you can get all the goodies and free projects that they send out and you can make stuff that will sell and you can recover your costs and make a profitable business.. There are makers versions of Vectric which are cheaper but size limited so bear that in mind if you want unlimited size and the goodies you need to pay for the full pack.
If you want to produce good quality work you have to pay the price for the machine , software and bits
I agree. Software is the key. I use VCarve Pro. Also, get a good set of 3D carving bits for your machine.
I like your commentary. These are words of wisdom. great video.
I concur, software is critical.I started out as a high school wood shop teach and put the first cnc in the shop. I found cnc more challenging then learning a conventional tool. Anyway, wood working takes sequential steps, process, precision, complexity. This whole debate regarding is cnc wood working etc, is silly. You can have fun wittling or you can have fun with a cnc.
to 3D carve you need a 3d model. If you can't design something complex by yourself hire someone to do it or indeed you can quit. The software is not the main concern. You can CAM just about anything if you have the CAD :)
Very true CAD skills are everything
James, (aka Stumpy) Thanks for the insight you have gained. The cost of even an inexpensive cnc and the additional costs as well as the learning curve will probably keep it out of my hands. Sometime you get a great deal but often you get what you pay for." And sometimes you get scammed ( that you has been me. NO LOL here)
Hey Stumpy- good intro video- thanks- I think a lot of folks that are commenting are basically looking at CNC through different applications AND perspectives- most folks "get" the video but it doesn't "click" with their perspective/application... most successful videos highlight pros/cons as well as a couple of different formats/applications so the confusion is mitigated to application vs need only. Overall I like the channel and like the CNC presentation- good job! Maybe do a video on why you chose the product you did- let us see your pro/con and application/solution process- then it will be a LOT clearer! Ciao!
I always love your videos and tutorials... so what made you choose a Shark CNC Machine over everything else on the Market.
Old Video, but still true and nice to see.
It’s interesting reading comments from different sources for the same machine, some are great, some terrible. In programming we have a term “Do what I mean, not what I say”. I’m wondering if that is what is happening here, with the reviews?
So the question is does the device follow the instructions programmed, and if so does it perform within specifications?
I expect my machine to carve a design in to wood to a depth of 1/2”. Both software & hardware must meet that requirement. It does not need to construct Terminator 2.
Hi - Enjoying the good info in your vids. Just a comment on your hold-down method of 4 nails. If you're using an up-cut mill, especially on hardwood, the vibration and upward force exerted by the mill can shake and pull your piece loose and suck it up onto the bit, destroying your project. I trashed a $25 hickory board because my hold-down screws weren't far enough into the spoil board. Gave the spindle a good shake as well when it tore loose. So hold 'em down secure. Thx.
I've also seen some videos about making your own CNC machine at home and some piece of software that looks good and professional: Mach 4 software. Seems to be able to do anything, even import JPG/BMP files directly and use the greyscale to determine the depth of carving. When I'm ready to build my own, I'll certainly gonna try the Mach 4 software, the full version is only 200 euros.
Yup really cool stuff these cnc machine are. Alot of the 2.5d to 3d wood working is affected by the toolset / router bits you choose to use. As you mentioned at the end of your video. I say just look at the different baseboard or crown molding decoration shapes and you can see this on a large scale. The all you have to do is imagine shrinking it down to a small scale.
Hi I’m Stacie and I like this video! Nice job and nice clock too!
I saw your video before completing to construct my CNC machine, and honestly, I was a bit scared . Now after 7 months of work and more then 7000 Eur. invested, I have to tell you this:Milling 3D is easy. It is all about the software, as long as the machine is strong and settings are correct.
No big deal, man.
Which is what this video is about...
Now all we need is more info...! WHICH software & bits will do the job?! I am sure you could give SOME examples?
Excellent informative video!! Thanks for taking the time friend!!.... :))............
Nice vid, Also I think you have created a time machine, At 5:09 your second hand on the clock starts going backwards. kewl :)
Edit. I have read other post's and other have said same thing .
I scored a complete fully licensed copy of Mastercam9, including the mill, lathe, router, edm, multi-axis, solids, design, and metacut utilities, including the dongle for my computer when my company was bought out a few years back.. It doesn't get any better.....
I love your videos generally but I prefer to spend my time working wood, not programming. I'm not a hand tool purist; although most of what people see in my end result is hand work, I do use a table saw, jointer and planer, etc. to do the 'apprentice' work. I've even been known to use the table saw for cutting repeated tenons (most recent project had 72 of them in one piece). So please don't consider this a howl from the Luddite fringe. But to my mind, somewhere you cross the line from woodworker to machine operator. Perhaps this is not the forum for this discussion but at some point I'd like the content creators to realize that CNC work is a departure from what I came here to see and presumably, what built your channel. Best wishes and looking forward to more woodworking.
Check the date on the video.
@@StumpyNubs I did but it came up in my feed so I watched it.
ANY 3 axis cnc is capable of true 3d but as pointed out in the video its all in the software. There is a number of 3d capable programs out there such as Vectrics aspire and V-carve. V carve WILL cut a true 3d but you cannot create 3d stuff within it. Aspire does both. These programs include a huge number of post procesors that converts from the program to some specific CNC controller. G-code is not exactly universal as claimed. Many machines have some features such as tool changers and so on. Just use the post processor that is made for your setup. I use v-carve desktop for say half of what I do even where I need true 3d. I just create the model in another program and import it in to v-carve.
That being said you need to stay away from the el-chepo cncs around for anything more than basic simple hobby stuff. Typically for the smaller ones about half the cost is the cnc and the other is the software. For most you can easily upgrade the software part but you will be stuck with the controller program unless you are very experenced in digital electronics and have a good background in programming.
My personal take on a cnc --- The best tool I have in the shop. If I had to choose between my home brew cnc or the table saw -- the table saw would be history. I use it for all sorts of things from just making oddball weird shaped holes, making hooles where there is no standard drillbit made for the size I need. Sometimes Ill slap a chunk of some firewood on it, mill off a flat spot and carve something in it.. Often I wind up with some wood that is shaped something close to an airplane prop and I want it dead flat and parallel. Usually its too small to run through a thickness planer or deal with safely on a table saw. I just clamp it down on the cnc with shims to get it stable then mill off one face., flip it over and do the same taking it right down to the thickness I want. At the same time ill run a pass along one side and an end. I wind up with stock with a KNOWN square corner and a straight side and end. I work with a lot of wood that goes for about $20 a board foot and up. WELL worth the time to "fix" bad chunks of it.
As far as CNC goes in woodworking. Its just another tool. If youre a crap woodworker the cnc will turn out crap work. Same goes if youre a real craftsman.. you will get top of the line results. A cnc can produce 3d stuff thats almost impossible to tell from hand carved by eye. Its all in the skill level used in the cad/cam side. For those that want to stay with "traditional" non power tool woodworking go for it. Theres plenty of room for everybody's slant on making sawdust.
My little CNC is a total home brew, no plans either. It can hold within5 thou across 2 feet if I run it slower but it can run rapids in the 250 IPM range . Stout enough to snap a quarter inch bit clean into hitting a clamp without loosing steps. Close to the same size as the one in the video and has comparable specs. Controller software is Mach 3 running on a 15 year old desktop. That desktop still runs faster than this 2 year old laptop. Ignoring the old desktop, I got right at $500 in it including Mach 3. I played around with a shark, nice machine but I DESPISE the controller software. I DONT need all the hand holding but I understand why its that way --- PRODUCT LIABILITY issues. Mach 3 or 4 are FAR better controller programs. Sharks now come with a version of Vetrics V-carve from what Ive been told. So using the same V-carve at right at $350 ( best I rember) my total cost is in the $800 to $900 range. Now That dont include labor either.
For those that dont have the skillset or ability to make a CNC themselves the Shark in the video is one of the 2 In that size range I have NO problem recommending even though I despise the controller software. Good solid cnc with good support.
I am in the market for a 4 axis machine. I need a machine with the capability of 24x24x6 minmum any suggestions?
yes, cheaper machines with cheaper software was all i could afford. so i bought it, made signs and nametags and such simpler projects wich i sold so i could buy the expensive software and upgrade my machine. buying cheaper is not always bad. it got my business going.
i am in the same boat but just leaving the dock, the machine is up and running using linuxcnc but not really making anything of consequence as of yet, any tips on software, projects... ect??
mightress what was the price of it ?
I am looking to buy cnc router,which one would you recommend?
what machine did you buy?
mightress just looking to do name engraved signes, what machines can cheaply do just that?
It's still 2.5D carving despite having nice contours. A full 3D would carve the bottom as well. Missing half an axis is why it is always 2.5D with a XYZ machine.
That's splitting hairs. Generally in the industry if you are making swooping curves it is considered 3D Example, a V carved sign or a sign with letters raised off the background or cut in with a straight bit is definitely 2.5D. A lions head carved with a ball nose bit would be 3D.
@@sandmandave2008 I think for true 3D, you would need multiple axes. I'm no expert but everything I've seen and heard has called this milling process 2.5D as the entire back portion is flat and inaccessible. Saying this is analogous to, lets say, a bust or statute that is truly three-dimensional would be inaccurate. Just my 2 pennies.
@@lvlikeyV I still believe it's splitting hairs. All of the model makers call their reliefs 3D models and V carved files are 2.5D models. So what if you carve a perfect cube on a 3 axis CNC? You end up with a full 3D model. It doesn't become a 2.5 D model because the back side is flat. Many objects can have a flat back. That doesn't automatically strike them from being a 3D model. But thanks for the comment.
@@sandmandave2008 I agree. I think the reviewer is confusing 3D with four or five axis capability.
@@sandmandave2008 It seems weird that the type of bit in the spindle dictates vs 2.5 and 3. (v-bit vs. ball end mill)
It's also absolutely worth learning to program efficient toolpaths, doing large flat shapes like this with like 0.5mm stepover is a total waste of time.
You can program this is 2 minutes and have 2 hours machining time,
or program for 15 minutes and save perhaps a good hour on machining
You can use a lesser priced machine with that software. The software is the most important part while the rigidity of the machine is important.
5:10 that watch definitely works perfect. Really save your time :D
Great video Stumpy Nubs! Thank you for your kind words and spreading good to know tips before purchasing a CNC and software to go with it. Your Zipper clock project came out amazing! 🙌
When I saw it taking shape I was hoping for a musical instrument ;)
2.5 axis carving is a limitation of your machine of moving only 2 axis at the same time. Good CAM software will usually overcome this limitation by creating 2 axis G1 lines that gives the same results as a true 3 axis machine (or realy similar results). The piece you carved in this video is done in X layer, cutting in 2D on the Y and Z axis. this can be done on a shapeoko with grbl arduino controler... but the piece won't fit the work area of a shapeoko :) If your machine talk Gcode you can do anything, all you need is the right CAM software.
You just had a peek into the rabbit hole 2.5D machining is ( Yes, its still called 2.5D as normal cuts are commonly referred to as 2D ) You now know that there are hundreds of gcode generators that create 2.5D toolpaths. But did you wonder at one point why your machine is cutting so slowly and nearly grinds to a halt on z level changes ? Thats were all the fun and the sleepless nights start.
My first generation x-carve is perfectly capable of 3D carving. I am able to do it it both Fusion 360 (free) and ArtCAM (Picked up for $150 for a year sub) There are options out there. You just have to be willing to learn and research how it can be done.
Paul Frederick do tell!:)
you are an incredible teacher. thank you for such helpful info and guidance
Fusion 360. Free and very powerful. Not to mention hours of instructional videos on RUclips.
it seems that you have set very low max speed on the z-axis... push it more up and u gonna save lots of mins... the lead-screw u have on the z... can handle great speeds... nice video :)
That looked like a soft wood you were working with. Will the machine work with hard woods? I have a sawmill business and only mill hardwood, mostly black walnut.
great Vid James, for me CNC is an extension to wood working and can make difficult jobs easier
sure like your video and your advises .
Please could you tell me the name of your cnc machine and the software that you are using.
I am in the market to buy one and it's new with me , I never work with cnc before.
Thank you much for your time and your advises ,
regards Germain
I'm so happy i arrived at this awesome world from the 3d modelling/cad world. CNC made me have a physical output
Which cnc r u using?. I do modelling in cinema 4d. Which softwrae to convert for cnc?
Hi, just started looking at CNBC machines. Your info was excellent, hadn't thought at all about 3D. Could I ask what hardness of wood do the cnc machines cope. Am a wrinkly getting into wood carving, suffering the joys of arthritis, and I have no great experience with wood other than DIY, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated......Bill 😎
With this all said which brand of CNC machines do you recommend and what software (versions) do you recommend.
thanks.......
For a very powerful but complex software i would highly recommend fusion 360. If you can tell it what you want, it can program anything.
@@robbiejames1540 Wow... thanks for responding. My comment was from 2 years ago. I have forgotten what I was wanting to know......
CNC machines are amazing to watch.... thanks...
@@dhansel4835
It was a late night of browsing youtube and i didn't notice how long ago it was! 😂
What model cnc machine are you using in the video??
OK, you do this for a living. What machine would you recommend?
My boss just bought a CNC machine that the company just came out with. Their software is the worst I have ever seen. $30,000 doller CNC machine with $2 software on it. The software always freezes and gives a code that I have to call in becouse it dosn't even have a help section to look up codes. When I ask about no help button in the software they just tell me its coming SOON, famous last words. You are spot on about having good software as I spend many hrs. fighting this CNC machine to produce product. The machine itself is very well built but that does not get the job done. The worst part about it is I think my Boss thinks I don't know what I am doing.
I totally get what you're saying, but with fusion360 being free for all hobbyists and low-income companies, the software doesn't really feel like such a big limitation anymore :)
You make my point. You upgraded your software.
@Stumpy Nubs Yes, but he's also making the point that Fusion 360 is free (at least for any hobbyist, who seems to be the target audience for your video).
and you do make it seem like good software can only be had for money and/or all free software is just "simple". I would even go so far as to say it's overkill and/or too complicated (powerful) for many hobby projects.
@@TheCreat f-engrave is a pretty great free software as well. aspire is how much? 2 grand? hard enough justifying 149 for photocarve or 149 for cut2d
@@TheCreat fusion 360 is not free or atleast not permanently free, its just a trial...
@@LG-ro5le Yes, it's free for peronal/hobby use and not time limited. They might of course at some point in the future stop this offer though. You need to renew the licence once per year I think, but that's also normal/official. It's also NOT a trial, and distinctly different from their trial offer. Their trial is the fully featured subscription/paid version, just a free 30 days of it (non-renewable of course), and available to businesses. The personal/hobby version is limited in features, tailored to what hobbyist are expected to reasonably need (and to avoid abuse from business users who don't want to pay).
Thank you very much for the great video. What exact machine and software are you using in the video? Would you upgrade to another, if so why. Thanks again 😁
I built transmissions for largest grossing shops for the last 40 years in Houston. I was wondering what a price would be to invest for a set up like yours in the video above.Scanning the links you provided for amazon above I'm guessing cnc, software, vacuum set up , tables and other tools and optional stuff $5-6 K to set up a pretty decent setup. Would that be close ? I know it depends what you want to make and how deep you want to go. I agree that its a waste to buy base model setups and better to invest a little more into the operation with better equipment / tools. Same thing with transmissions. I learned fast to leave cheap tools alone and buy Snap on tools. With right set up you can continue challenging yourself.
I am using the CNC Shark. It comes with pretty good software that will work for 2-D work (V-Carve Desktop). The 3-D software (Aspire) is more expensive if you want to do more detailed carvings.
Starting with G-code designed for your machine is one thing, but taking a 3D stl file through Vectric and out to G-code is another matter.One of the things your viewers should be warned about is that Vectric and other CNC packages don't always create the best toolpaths for a given design. If the viewer is serious about creating 3D designs I recommend using 2 or 3 software packages to create toolpaths from a single 3d design. These can then be previewed and compared for run, time. The user will likely see quite a lot of variation. I am frequently frustrated by how long the generated toolpaths take to turn out even the simplest of shapes.Many CAM packages can be run in evaluation mode for free. Vectric is that way as is Fusion 360.Aspire is nice for its ability to create the 3d designs. However, there are many sources for 3d designs given the explosion in 3d printing. Many 3d print designs can be sent to a mill with little or no modification.Finally, there are many paths to creating one's own stl files. Windows 10 ships with 3d builder. There are also Tinkercad and Fusion 360.Be warned, there is a serious learning curve for working withn3d designs.
3D design is like learning to hand carve wood: easy to start, but it takes a lot of skill, practice and good tools to do well.
Great video Stumpy and a nice looking clock!
Autodesk Fusion 360 has everything that Aspire has for about $2000 less (non commercial use). You should check it out. For hobbyists just starting out? It cannot be beat!
With the knowledge and experience you have gained over time maybe you can provide some insight. Any reply appreciated. What CNC router / carver and software would be sufficient to produce guitar and banjo necks for a start up business? Maybe it's cheaper to just get a tool path for items in a data form I can hand to a business with the equipment they can plug into Thier computer and go???
Thanks for the insight. The old adage of "you get get what you pay for", applies in this instance.
Thanks for the great and valuable advice. When I finally pull the trigger I will do so much better informed.
Love you Nubs...keep up the good work. You are truly an asset to the woodworking community if not the entire galaxy.
Hi James, I am ready to purchase my first CNC.
Many THANKS for the effort and time you put in to make us more informed in the decision process.
I have narrowed my CNC brand to either the Shark HD or the Axiom. As for the software, Vcarve then upgrade to Aspire within 1 year of purchase to further reduce intitial budget constraints.
Your thoughts on why you decided on the Shark HD verses other brands (Axiom).
Hi, very usefull yr video. What cnc you think is better just for some wood projects. ?
Any 3 axis CNC should be able to do 'true' 3D carving but for my home made machine I've had problems finding free software. I use F-engrave which is simple but works well. At work I use Power mill by Delcam which works fantastic on my 5 axis miller but is very expensive.
Thanks for the intro to CNC. Kind thought it was a software thing--had enough of that in my past life.
I’m pretty new to your channel and this seems to be the most recent one on CNC machines. I was wondering do you have any opinions or experience with shaper origin? Also, thanks for all the great content. You and the wood working for mere mortals channel have really helped me in my woodworking hobby.
So glad I found this video before making my purchase. Thanks!
I agree with the sentiment. But that clock looks better without that wooden thing behind it 🤷♂️
technically you are still 2.5D with a CNC machine that cannot cut underhangs and voids, like 4 and 5 axis machines can. But I totally agree about the software.
Hi, James. So two years later, whats out there as far as new machines? Definitely want to do real three d. I'm ready to get started. So many choices. What would your dream machine be if you had to do it today for about 5 grand? Thanks. Big fan.
Great Video and great info I enjoyed watching keep up the good work!
Great video. Best part [in kind]: Knowing specifically what you want and knowing how to get there before you invest. In short; Invest your time first! Respect!
Can you make a video on your setup? Or please link one if you already did it
I'm looking at making a wood shop in a year or so from now. One of the things I liked about your setup is the TV that showed what was going on at that time, and I think I might do the same.
Anyways, I think when I make my shop I will have 2 CNC machines. 1 like what you have and another being a rotary. I'm also going to have a laser cutter/engraver. And the normal stuff. I'm going to have some metal working parts in the mix. Things like brake, cutters, and so on.
Part of the shop will be section off. In it's own room I will have a 3D printer area. I already have this one, but filament can't stand humidity so I'm giving it it's own space. I'm also going to have a workstation/desk in both areas.
Something I'm wondering is how did you get your TV to show where you're at in your project. I know with my 3D printer, I might need an extra Pi or something since I don't think Octoprint works directly with any monitor.
Before you leave a comment that "CNC is not woodworking", watch this video that covers that controversial subject: ruclips.net/video/BHKgoABLNLI/видео.html
Stumpy Nubs agree when we frist started it was crazy. I was lost but software is all of it well alot of it. I swore i need a 4th axis or no 3d untill messed with different software. Great video
CNC use is woodworking,,,when used for shaping wood...Very good for refining ones typing skills and little else that enhances ones eye hand skills. Now that's a fact and in itself is a drawback in that respect.. I can understand how one drawers that conclusion,,,BUT,,being a purist has a price. That being not being able to achieve ones objective. I wish I could go back in time to when my " joints " were in good shape,,lol...My shop has a jointer and a planer to get to s4s and many hand planes are not used anymore for that end.. Same go's for utilizing a CNC machine..Will I ever buy one? That's unlikely but things change..For me,being retired over 20 years time is not money,not do I have any deadlines nor the obligations that younger folks have to meet.....I think they're wonderful machines pretty much as folks felt with table saws...Purist can have their sharp stones to woodwork a stick into a spear if that tickles their fancy...The question is why limit oneself and that deserves an answer....
Nice job Stumpy. I always enjoy a good video about CNC. ;-)
Great video. Thanks. I'm not ready to dive into CNC but this info will no doubt help me out when I do. Thanks again.
Jaja good video but what did you make? A tennis racket strung with a clock?
Very informational!...More education!...Just finished my Fusion 360 class...looking for a machine. I am looking for a machine for headstock and neck MoP inlay, so my scale is very small. I am looking @ 3018 as a first machine..any recommendations?????
What are some of the better machine you are talking about. Our company is still small and starting out. We are wanting to make dice boxes and clocks. Aswell as expand on our dice towers. We use Solidworks for our design platform.
Any thought re: turning? Check out Legacy CNC. Serious gear for small to large shops. Great training and support.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I'm on a fixed budget and the Mrs. gives me a hard stare when In talk about getting a CNC. Can you recommend a CNC that will work with metal and wood. Thanks again.
I want to make clocks, cutting boards and stove burner covers. Do you think the Shaopeoko is good enough for these items?
Great video. X Carve says their machine only does Flat carving, not sculpting. For that they recommended a better software. Their software can't do the sculpting. What software would you recommend for something like the X-Carve? Thanks
You changed CNCs because you didn't like the software?? That's like buying a car based on what radio station it comes tuned to.
No, he said he bought a machine that was more robust than his first one. The 3D creation software has noting to do with any particular machine, all you need is for the post processor to generate the proper G code for the particular software your CNC machine uses to run whether it be proprietary software or something like Mach 3. What he stated is that machines that come with software included are usually not very powerful. I think he bought a more robust machine because of the type of 3D carving he wanted to do. I know guys with table top models where in cutting wood, they are pretty much maxed out at 40 ipm because of the rigidity oy the machine and the horsepower of the router, whereas I carve 3D on my machine at 150 ipm since it's a big rigid machine with a 5 hp spindle. Some guys have spindles up to 12 hp and cut at speeds of 300 ipm or more. The main point of this article is to make you aware that machines with FREE software will be extremely limited and the more you spend on a machine, the better chance you have of getting better software. My router ($12,000) came with Mach 3 to run the router and V Carve software for making 2.5 D models. My 3D creation software was $7000.
I need your expert opinion.
My back limits what I can do.
I want to make cabinet doors, table tops and what not with designs cut into them. Nothing fancy. Nature scenes maybe the occasional skyline or flowers or something like that.
What would you recommend I use? Mind you I need something I can put the board in and walk away. All I need is it carved into wood. I don't need 3D at all for what I'm planning.
Nice video, however as a discussion, what you carved in my eyes is 2.5d. 3D carving is omnidirectional
2.5D is 3D shapes cut as layers with a constant z step (only x/y movement per layer), this is 3D here as you can see the cutter is going up/down along the shapes
"It's hard enough getting an expensive high tech purchase approved by the spouse-"
This guy knows what's up XD
Great advice dude. Millions of appreciations. Thanks
I really like the look of the screen above the router. Is it useable as a workstation in that configuration? I'd like to do away with the cart next to my machine, but my current monitor would be too small to see from over the router. I only use the pic now to run the router, but the bigger screen might be nice to have a second pic in shop for quick drawing work, or a web search.
It's just a VIzio HD television I used to have int he house. The older flat screen TV's used to cut off the edges when used as computer monitors. But the newer (last five years) are better. They aren't great for gaming or anything, because the response time of a television is different from a computer monitor, but it works great for the shop. My table saw is also near it, so I can put up a Sketchup model and use a wireless mouse to rotate it, take measurements, etc. while I cut my parts. And since it uses an HDMI cable, the computer can be far away from it (as long as my wireless mouse and keyboard signal can reach it.)
Nice; I was just going to suggest hanging an LCD TV on the wall- 32" are cheap as chips these days.
Thanks a lot been looking in to. A cnc machine. For when I retire Now I will look a bit further