I keep trying to figure out why you are the only guy on U tube that knows what he is doing and takes the time to explain it so we can understand. thanks a lot and keep up the good work. You are the man!!!
WOW,, just looking at the subscribers count of 38K, I sure thought you would have alot more than this, I find your videos so easy to follow most of the time, I guess there must not be as many people into the learning of such products, I am surprised .. as always great video and keep up the info of learning more..
I have watched hundreds of hours and never get tired of watching and listening to George. I think some people probably are not into as intense study of something. There is NO better than him. I have watched them all... some very good too! Barley and Hopps is the last word where I am concerned! I think it is still illegal in many places this may affect the numbers.
@@ravencove8538 - YES I guess you could relate it to the fact that B&H sells such products, that it could be illegal,, but as for these PDI units, they could be use for any kind of a temp control, of legal stuff, chick hatching, just to mention 1, but it could be used in other ways is what I am saying,, I to have watched his videos,, in most cases more than 2 or 3 times, and just love to hear him explain these things,, I just can't get enough ... I also think the wine industry could use this to keep their product at a constant temp, during making, and that is not illegal in most places... thanks for your view, I just thought he would have more subscribers....
Heck ya I am getting set to give George some business for one. I am also telling my buddies around the country about the channel as well. The more we share the better it is for the guys. I slogged through some material that was less than accurate before running across the Barley and hops page. It was rough going. @@jbrunson1949
@@ravencove8538 Great, I did some business with them over a year ago now, and found them very well to deal with, and like he says I got George as a plus.. lol
Thanks a lot for all the good information, this is one of the few sources I consider reliable on the topic. I do have one question though, I have a 27 gallon copper boiler going to a doubler. What element size or combination would you recommend? Would a single 5500 watt do the job efficiently? I can support a 30 to 50 amp circuit. If I were to use 2 elements in the bottom they would have to be layered due to my boiler being narrow and tall like a water heater. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Hi George, If i had four of you as high school instructors, id be a rich man right now! Your an excellent instructor! Q: would it be a viable option to take a single 110v leg with a forty amp panel breaker and run it to a small sub panel with a 240v step up transformer and pull the required voltage for a 240v 5500 watt heating element? Thanks for your time, Stu in Seattle
Can you run 2 30A independent lines from wall (fuse/sub box) to each of the two SSR independent but send PID signal from a single controller that way? To run a 5500W element? I'm getting 22.91A per element which 80% load on a 30A circuit is 24A. Instead of running a single power to box... Which would need to be 6-8g wire, and that connector block is probably only rated at 30A, at least one I could find. Also why not just use 120/240vAC fans instead of 12v DC? Simplify wiring.
Can I use STM32F103 controller with 1602 display, vo3062 and bta40 triacs, 0.1 °C temperature accuracy, custom pcb, custom software and 400vac three phase 3x2kW heaters? Just joking, custom universal distillation controller is third in stack. Too bad I can't help you with the controller with audio feedback, HMI is not my specialty.
@John B Yes it was John, but it only had the heating element in, then George came up with using 2, which was a very great idea in heating large water. this really was true after the video about the bottom being hot and the higher up you go, the cooler. Makes sense. George is one of the great ones out there on RUclips, hands down. I am new at this (Brewing) and out of all of the other videos i have watched and i watch a lot, he is the "King", not only on the subject matter, but also how he does his videos. I have seen the other videos and my question was can the 120 PID setup support 2 heating elements. I live over seas, and some things are not all that possible or cost efficient to do. Nothing that i will do in the near future, just wondering.
@John B Ah the fixer upper. I remember the days. Was in Rea Estate and did a lot of them. all ways so much fun? LOL I did my 1st run last week. Not sure good or bad yet, can hardly wait. It sort of smells good, but seeing how this is my 1st, time will tell. Wished i lived back in the states, would make this so much easier to get needed supplies. Sounds like you are doing well with the brewing. It will take some time, but hopefully I will get there.
With the mighty-mini and 3 gallons and 2000 watts internal heat I get an oscillation in condensate using a PID controller. I am able to stop the oscillation by adding a constant heat from an electric burner under the pot. I'm considering a larger boiler and using two elements and power the smaller with a PWM controller and the more powerful one with the PID. Is this oscillation technically a cattywampus?
Not really but love the use of the word cattywampus LOL Check your P,I,D, parameter setting. It sound like one may be out of bounds. If you need to set them to a good start point set them as follows: P= 1, I= 540 and D= 200. Thsi will be close enough to correct and when you get the system running use the autotune button to fine tune the PID. George
A few questions. Is it better to run 2 elements off individual ssr? What voltage are you using? How much for making the box without the pdi and ssr's? Or the plans on how to make tge box?
It is called a cable gland. They come in sizes PG 5-whatever. In used the PG-21 for this one. Type in PG-21 cable gland in amazon ans start shopping. George
For a 50 liter 13 gallon still I want to use a 240 element as it would allow the 120 plus to use for pumps and lights, etc. I don't want to over heat or heat to quickly, but estimated a 3500 low density element would be more than needed, any guidance here?
So I maltefd two pounds of white popcorn and two pounds of yellow pop corn and nothing else got a 22.5 gravity is this normal I didn't think I would get a 12 to 15 gravity points at best was going to add table sugar to increase the gravity points but now rethinking that what would you do go with it or try to increase it ??????
You say that this is for large units, why would you not want to use it in say an 8 gallon, so as to bring the wash up to the desired temp faster, and cut down on the run time, I have watched your run videos and find that it takes the most time in heat to the desired temp,, then the run time, looks to me you could bring wash to temp faster the let PID take over and control the run,, Is there a reason you don't want to bring your wash up to desired temp to fast???
I keep trying to figure out why you are the only guy on U tube that knows what he is doing and takes the time to explain it so we can understand. thanks a lot and keep up the good work. You are the man!!!
You are a life saver as usual george I'm about to start on a 75 gallon build
Keep up the Outstanding work, We all Love your EASY TO FOLLOW Lessons George👍
As per usual great video, I thought Mike the blind distiller is absolutely amazing!
WOW,, just looking at the subscribers count of 38K, I sure thought you would have alot more than this, I find your videos so easy to follow most of the time, I guess there must not be as many people into the learning of such products, I am surprised .. as always great video and keep up the info of learning more..
I have watched hundreds of hours and never get tired of watching and listening to George. I think some people probably are not into as intense study of something. There is NO better than him. I have watched them all... some very good too! Barley and Hopps is the last word where I am concerned! I think it is still illegal in many places this may affect the numbers.
@@ravencove8538 - YES I guess you could relate it to the fact that B&H sells such products, that it could be illegal,, but as for these PDI units, they could be use for any kind of a temp control, of legal stuff, chick hatching, just to mention 1, but it could be used in other ways is what I am saying,, I to have watched his videos,, in most cases more than 2 or 3 times, and just love to hear him explain these things,, I just can't get enough ... I also think the wine industry could use this to keep their product at a constant temp, during making, and that is not illegal in most places... thanks for your view, I just thought he would have more subscribers....
Heck ya I am getting set to give George some business for one. I am also telling my buddies around the country about the channel as well. The more we share the better it is for the guys. I slogged through some material that was less than accurate before running across the Barley and hops page. It was rough going.
@@jbrunson1949
@@ravencove8538 Great, I did some business with them over a year ago now, and found them very well to deal with, and like he says I got George as a plus.. lol
And if you don't understand cattywhompus then … you will never make it! HAHAHAHA heeheehee great job as always George! GREAT BUILD!
Thank you George!!
Thanks George!
Thanks a lot for all the good information, this is one of the few sources I consider reliable on the topic. I do have one question though, I have a 27 gallon copper boiler going to a doubler. What element size or combination would you recommend? Would a single 5500 watt do the job efficiently? I can support a 30 to 50 amp circuit. If I were to use 2 elements in the bottom they would have to be layered due to my boiler being narrow and tall like a water heater. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Great video George, very imformative video. I just asking if your PID controler and SSR are the same brand? If not what is the brand of PID?
Hi George, If i had four of you as high school instructors, id be a rich man right now! Your an excellent instructor!
Q: would it be a viable option to take a single 110v leg with a forty amp panel breaker and run it to a small sub panel with a 240v step up transformer and pull the required voltage for a 240v 5500 watt heating element?
Thanks for your time,
Stu in Seattle
What is a ball park cost on one of these dual element heat control pid?
Can you run 2 30A independent lines from wall (fuse/sub box) to each of the two SSR independent but send PID signal from a single controller that way? To run a 5500W element? I'm getting 22.91A per element which 80% load on a 30A circuit is 24A. Instead of running a single power to box... Which would need to be 6-8g wire, and that connector block is probably only rated at 30A, at least one I could find.
Also why not just use 120/240vAC fans instead of 12v DC? Simplify wiring.
Can this be used on powdercoating oven
Can I use STM32F103 controller with 1602 display, vo3062 and bta40 triacs, 0.1 °C temperature accuracy, custom pcb, custom software and 400vac three phase 3x2kW heaters? Just joking, custom universal distillation controller is third in stack. Too bad I can't help you with the controller with audio feedback, HMI is not my specialty.
And are the elements ran on same power or individual power to each element?
interesting points, to say the least. Could you do this set-up on a 120 volts application instead of the 240?
Check out our playlist. We have a huge collection of videos on that topic with step by step instructions
@John B Yes it was John, but it only had the heating element in, then George came up with using 2, which was a very great idea in heating large water. this really was true after the video about the bottom being hot and the higher up you go, the cooler. Makes sense. George is one of the great ones out there on RUclips, hands down. I am new at this (Brewing) and out of all of the other videos i have watched and i watch a lot, he is the "King", not only on the subject matter, but also how he does his videos. I have seen the other videos and my question was can the 120 PID setup support 2 heating elements. I live over seas, and some things are not all that possible or cost efficient to do. Nothing that i will do in the near future, just wondering.
@John B Ah the fixer upper. I remember the days. Was in Rea Estate and did a lot of them. all ways so much fun? LOL
I did my 1st run last week. Not sure good or bad yet, can hardly wait. It sort of smells good, but seeing how this is my 1st, time will tell. Wished i lived back in the states, would make this so much easier to get needed supplies.
Sounds like you are doing well with the brewing. It will take some time, but hopefully I will get there.
With the mighty-mini and 3 gallons and 2000 watts internal heat I get an oscillation in condensate using a PID controller. I am able to stop the oscillation by adding a constant heat from an electric burner under the pot. I'm considering a larger boiler and using two elements and power the smaller with a PWM controller and the more powerful one with the PID. Is this oscillation technically a cattywampus?
Not really but love the use of the word cattywampus LOL
Check your P,I,D, parameter setting. It sound like one may be out of bounds. If you need to set them to a good start point set them as follows: P= 1, I= 540 and D= 200. Thsi will be close enough to correct and when you get the system running use the autotune button to fine tune the PID.
George
A few questions. Is it better to run 2 elements off individual ssr? What voltage are you using? How much for making the box without the pdi and ssr's? Or the plans on how to make tge box?
I was thinking the same. I would buy plans to build. Parts are cheap.
What is that part called that holds the main cable into the box. Probably has a few different names.
It is called a cable gland. They come in sizes PG 5-whatever. In used the PG-21 for this one. Type in PG-21 cable gland in amazon ans start shopping.
George
For a 50 liter 13 gallon still I want to use a 240 element as it would allow the 120 plus to use for pumps and lights, etc. I don't want to over heat or heat to quickly, but estimated a 3500 low density element would be more than needed, any guidance here?
Sounds like a solid plan.
I built one with the digital amp meter, but the meter comes on only when the element is on. So my amp meter is constantly flashing on and off.
Place the round sensor on the main line coming into the box.
So I maltefd two pounds of white popcorn and two pounds of yellow pop corn and nothing else got a 22.5 gravity is this normal I didn't think I would get a 12 to 15 gravity points at best was going to add table sugar to increase the gravity points but now rethinking that what would you do go with it or try to increase it ??????
I believe you measured in Brix. If so, that is fine. Leave it there and ferment.
George
You say that this is for large units, why would you not want to use it in say an 8 gallon, so as to bring the wash up to the desired temp faster, and cut down on the run time, I have watched your run videos and find that it takes the most time in heat to the desired temp,, then the run time, looks to me you could bring wash to temp faster the let PID take over and control the run,, Is there a reason you don't want to bring your wash up to desired temp to fast???
Slow and steady is always best. The difference is really cost -vs- efficiency.