I know this video is 5 yo but it is timeless :) , your videos are one of the reason i declded to repair stuff on my old beat up 300sl-24 :) You have a gift to be able to convey your experience :)
Thank you very much for this excellent video. I replaced seals in both latch cylinders. I did have a struggle with the retainer ring. I found another video where the gentleman suggested notching the side with a dremel. Work great. That ring is a killer Thank you very much!,
Glad you liked it!! I really struggled with the latch retainer ring, both because it was very difficult to apply force in the right direction, and then also to keep in the camera view. Took a while, but was worth it in the end. Alden
That is a tough one. They are really "unobtainium" these days. You might try the www.tophydraulics.com folks, but even they probably don't sell just the clips. Good luck, and please comment back if you find a source.
Your videos re 129 are so understandable even a non diy guy can succeed. My question were these the only cylinders you replaced or did you do ALL 12. I have a main lift cylinder leaking and just want to do BOTH rear lifts and not all the rest just wondering what you did with your car
Thanks! I only refurbished the two latch cylinders over the windshield. These are the ones that go bad the most often. I did not have a problem with any others for several years, but the next bad one was so concealed that I did not pull it out to work on it. The process of rebuilding those cylinder/rams would be the same if you can extract them.
@@FlashDriveFilms Thank you. Your 2 Best Videos ..IMO... The instrument Cluster and your hydraulic cylinder. With your help I was able to do the instrument cluster. I was so shocked that I did it...ME mr cant fix nothing I can not thank you enough. That is why I said your videos are so clear and concise. Thanks again and keep em coming!
I am not sure of the hydraulic ram cylinders are the same. The O-ring kit I used was from Amazon, and very reasonably priced. It was identical to the one I have an affiliated link for in the description. I may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.) Mine worked well for the R129, but I am not sure of cross-model compatibility.
I did not find a need to. The system pressurizes only one side each time you activate it and the fluid then goes back to the reservoir by the return line.
Excellent presentation, in its entirety. Do you have any suggestions on repairing w209(clk500) main lift cylinders. Do you know if those style are repairable? Thanks in advance for your time and attention to my dilemma
Thank you ! My Mercedes knowledge ends around the advent of OBDII, so anything newer than about 1995 is a black box to me. I just haven't been around enough of the newer cars to confidently advise on them. Alden
Hi Sir, What a great video you have made, clear sound, clear graphics, easy explanations. Bravo. Maybe you can help me out with some of my queries. 1. I have an SL500, Year 1999 and i would like to purchase complete seal kit even though only one of the cylinders is leaking. Do you advise to rebuild all cylinders even if they are not leaking yet? or should i just rebuild the leaking one (which is one of the rear main big cylinders) ?. 2. All the seal kits in the market for rebuilding R129 cylinders are O rings which is different than the OEM CUP seals. which one do you think is more durable ? and do you advise putting the O rings? 3. Do you supply any tested seal Kits whether they are O ring or U cup ? old or new? or can you recommend any suppliers ? 4. Do you have any Videos showing the rebuilding of the remaining different latches/cylinders in the R129 convertable operation? Thanks
Hi! I'll take each number at a time: 1) You have to decide what your plans for the car are. Keeping it forever or just a year/summer? Keeping the car "perfect", concours, or just as a weekend runabout? If you have the time/money/inclination, and plan to keep the car forever, do all the cylinders in one go and be assured. 2) I think the cup seal *should* be more durable. O-rings will roll each time the hydraulic ram operates, flexing the seal. Cup style seals are the correct shape for hydraulic ram operation, so it would come down to how precision the molded seal is, and what materials it was made out of. Done right, they will outlive an O-ring seal. (theoretically) I chose O-rings due to MUCH lower price for use on a car with already many years & miles on it. 3) I do not sell any parts/kits etc. I bought my o-ring kit online at a popular auction site.It came with O-rings for all 12 rams of the R129 power top system. It was under $20, so shop around. 4) I have as yet only rebuilt the top latch rams, as the others seem to be operating fine. Basically, all of my repair videos require something to break before I can fix it and make a video! As a side note: I have seen websites that sell some really nice looking seal kits. They look like high quality and correct dimensions etc. However, I found them to be what I would consider Very expensive. Especially for a car in the condition mine is: 26 years old and nearly 200K miles. If you have a younger, nicer version, the seal kits may represent a better value for you. See answer #1. Alden
Dear Alden, Actually my SL has only 65K Miles and I do intend to keep it for as long as i can so i should take your advice and do them all in one go. But everybody around me is saying that the O rings are good enough and will last me at least 5 years and like you said it costs less than 20 $, while the U Cup rings will probably last 6-7 only and cost 250$. keeping in mind i live in KUWAIT which is known for high temperatures in the summer (can reach up to 130 F). There are many O ring suppliers on ebay, but found only 1 supplier for u cup seals (www.mbseals.com). can you advice any other U cup seal suppliers? Many thanks for your support.
Nersis Kyoumjian I don't know of other U-cup seal vendors, although I have seen them on sites like eBay form time to time. High heat is definitely an important consideration for the top latch seals, they are the most exposed, being on top of the windshield header. What will wear O-rings faster is how often they are flexed: putting the top up & down a lot would make them wear quicker. Alden
Hi All, I'd like to buy get the seals prior to reassembling the Hydraulic cylinder. I've no idea how are the dimensions of the O-Rings and the gaskets, seals you name it. Could anyone help me with that?
The set I used in the video, I actually bought on eBay for around $20 at the time. I didn't take the measurements or sizes off of them. (it was a whole set for all 12 hydraulic rams) There is also a website where someone has gone to the trouble of reproducing seals like the originals, but they were much higher-priced, so I went with O-rings instead. Alden
@@FlashDriveFilms I’m a master mechanic would that be a similar size as a valve seal on a engine ? They looked to be the same design , also a compression seal on a transfer case but very tiny
I got the O-ring set shown in the video off of eBay. It was right around $20 at the time and had O-rings for all of the hydraulic top cylinders. I do know that someone has gone to the trouble of making actual replacement duplicate seals like the ones from the factory. They look really well-made, but I do not know how good they are as they were WAAAAAY over my budget. (couple of hundred dollars at the time, as I recall.) You might also look into totally rebuilt assemblies as I have seen some offered that are much lower prices than they used to be. (It was about $500 each for new ones when I check before doing this video. They seem to run about half that now.) My O-ring repair is still working fine going on 4 years now, so it depends on how long you plan to keep your car as a guide to which route you want to take.Hope this helps. Alden
I don't think the Benz dealer actually sells just the seals. When I looked into it (again, almost 4 years ago) they would only sell the complete hydraulic unit assembly: the cylinder ram and latching mechanism, as on unit. Very not cheap. I would recommend checking online, like eBay or Amazon, to find someone who sells the set of seals or O-ring kits. Alden
Hi! I' not sure why it would act up, but it might be the microswitches that sense the window positions. Here's a video that shows how to reset the window switches at about 5:00 into it. ruclips.net/video/5w0MLFAyCgg/видео.html Not my video, but I hope it helps! Alden
I am not sure, but here's a link to another video that mentions MAP sensors. Hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/Zy3HajiGNh4/видео.html No estoy seguro, pero aquí hay un enlace a otro video que menciona los sensores MAP. Espero que esto ayude. Alden
I'll tell you what I was doing: in 2014 when this was made, there was ONE source of the REPRODUCTION ( not even OEM) seals. They were $250 for a set. The O-ring set I used was $19.99, lasted at least 4 more years, and worked fine. So go ahead and spend YOUR money however you want. I'm here to Save money. Which set did you use on YOUR R129?
Thanks so much for this super clear video. I've just changed my seals successfully, and given im not a great DIYer, I'm super happy. Thanks again
Excellent! It means a lot to me to hear of peoples' success on keeping these cars ready to enjoy. Thank you!👍
I know this video is 5 yo but it is timeless :) , your videos are one of the reason i declded to repair stuff on my old beat up 300sl-24 :) You have a gift to be able to convey your experience :)
Thank you! I think these cars are really worth the effort.
Alden
Best instructional video for this hydraulic pump rebuild!!
Thanks! Glad you liked it and I hope it helps if you ever run into this problem.
Alden
Best video. Short and to the point never missing a step. Awesome Thanks
Thank you very much for this excellent video. I replaced seals in both latch cylinders. I did have a struggle with the retainer ring. I found another video where the gentleman suggested notching the side with a dremel. Work great. That ring is a killer
Thank you very much!,
Glad you liked it!! I really struggled with the latch retainer ring, both because it was very difficult to apply force in the right direction, and then also to keep in the camera view. Took a while, but was worth it in the end.
Alden
Thanks. The better guide i saw of rebuilt that.
Thank you ! I hope it helps you out.
Alden
Good video and very easy to learn.
Thank you!
ein danke schön, und ein lieben gruß sl r 129 🤗🍂
Hi, where can I buy that metal spring clip for the cylinder ? I lost it.
That is a tough one. They are really "unobtainium" these days. You might try the www.tophydraulics.com folks, but even they probably don't sell just the clips. Good luck, and please comment back if you find a source.
Your videos re 129 are so understandable even a non diy guy can succeed. My question were these the only cylinders you replaced or did you do ALL 12. I have a main lift cylinder leaking and just want to do BOTH rear lifts and not all the rest just wondering what you did with your car
Thanks! I only refurbished the two latch cylinders over the windshield. These are the ones that go bad the most often. I did not have a problem with any others for several years, but the next bad one was so concealed that I did not pull it out to work on it. The process of rebuilding those cylinder/rams would be the same if you can extract them.
@@FlashDriveFilms Thank you. Your 2 Best Videos ..IMO... The instrument Cluster and your hydraulic cylinder. With your help I was able to do the instrument cluster. I was so shocked that I did it...ME mr cant fix nothing I can not thank you enough. That is why I said your videos are so clear and concise. Thanks again and keep em coming!
Is it the same for the rear latch on a CLK 320 ? What O rings do you get ?
I am not sure of the hydraulic ram cylinders are the same. The O-ring kit I used was from Amazon, and very reasonably priced. It was identical to the one I have an affiliated link for in the description. I may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.) Mine worked well for the R129, but I am not sure of cross-model compatibility.
Do you have to bleed the air out of the system after replacing the cylinder ? thanks
I did not find a need to. The system pressurizes only one side each time you activate it and the fluid then goes back to the reservoir by the return line.
Excellent presentation, in its entirety. Do you have any suggestions on repairing w209(clk500) main lift cylinders. Do you know if those style are repairable? Thanks in advance for your time and attention to my dilemma
Thank you ! My Mercedes knowledge ends around the advent of OBDII, so anything newer than about 1995 is a black box to me. I just haven't been around enough of the newer cars to confidently advise on them.
Alden
Hi Sir,
What a great video you have made, clear sound, clear graphics, easy explanations. Bravo.
Maybe you can help me out with some of my queries.
1. I have an SL500, Year 1999 and i would like to purchase complete seal kit even though only one of the cylinders is leaking. Do you advise to rebuild all cylinders even if they are not leaking yet? or should i just rebuild the leaking one (which is one of the rear main big cylinders) ?.
2. All the seal kits in the market for rebuilding R129 cylinders are O rings which is different than the OEM CUP seals. which one do you think is more durable ? and do you advise putting the O rings?
3. Do you supply any tested seal Kits whether they are O ring or U cup ? old or new? or can you recommend any suppliers ?
4. Do you have any Videos showing the rebuilding of the remaining different latches/cylinders in the R129 convertable operation?
Thanks
Hi!
I'll take each number at a time:
1) You have to decide what your plans for the car are. Keeping it forever or just a year/summer? Keeping the car "perfect", concours, or just as a weekend runabout? If you have the time/money/inclination, and plan to keep the car forever, do all the cylinders in one go and be assured.
2) I think the cup seal *should* be more durable. O-rings will roll each time the hydraulic ram operates, flexing the seal. Cup style seals are the correct shape for hydraulic ram operation, so it would come down to how precision the molded seal is, and what materials it was made out of. Done right, they will outlive an O-ring seal. (theoretically) I chose O-rings due to MUCH lower price for use on a car with already many years & miles on it.
3) I do not sell any parts/kits etc. I bought my o-ring kit online at a popular auction site.It came with O-rings for all 12 rams of the R129 power top system. It was under $20, so shop around.
4) I have as yet only rebuilt the top latch rams, as the others seem to be operating fine. Basically, all of my repair videos require something to break before I can fix it and make a video!
As a side note: I have seen websites that sell some really nice looking seal kits. They look like high quality and correct dimensions etc. However, I found them to be what I would consider Very expensive. Especially for a car in the condition mine is: 26 years old and nearly 200K miles. If you have a younger, nicer version, the seal kits may represent a better value for you. See answer #1.
Alden
Dear Alden,
Actually my SL has only 65K Miles and I do intend to keep it for as long as i can so i should take your advice and do them all in one go. But everybody around me is saying that the O rings are good enough and will last me at least 5 years and like you said it costs less than 20 $, while the U Cup rings will probably last 6-7 only and cost 250$. keeping in mind i live in KUWAIT which is known for high temperatures in the summer (can reach up to 130 F). There are many O ring suppliers on ebay, but found only 1 supplier for u cup seals (www.mbseals.com). can you advice any other U cup seal suppliers?
Many thanks for your support.
Nersis Kyoumjian I don't know of other U-cup seal vendors, although I have seen them on sites like eBay form time to time. High heat is definitely an important consideration for the top latch seals, they are the most exposed, being on top of the windshield header. What will wear O-rings faster is how often they are flexed: putting the top up & down a lot would make them wear quicker.
Alden
danke!!!
Hi All, I'd like to buy get the seals prior to reassembling the Hydraulic cylinder. I've no idea how are the dimensions of the O-Rings and the gaskets, seals you name it. Could anyone help me with that?
The set I used in the video, I actually bought on eBay for around $20 at the time. I didn't take the measurements or sizes off of them. (it was a whole set for all 12 hydraulic rams) There is also a website where someone has gone to the trouble of reproducing seals like the originals, but they were much higher-priced, so I went with O-rings instead.
Alden
NBseals.com
Could you please tell me the exact size of those o-rings?
Hi!
I honestly didn't measure them before doing the rebuild. They came as part of a set/kit, with one for each side.
Alden
FlashDriveFilms you are lucky, is not easy to find the exact size, is 9x3mm
@@FlashDriveFilms I’m a master mechanic would that be a similar size as a valve seal on a engine ? They looked to be the same design , also a compression seal on a transfer case but very tiny
Were do you get the replacement kit?
I got the O-ring set shown in the video off of eBay. It was right around $20 at the time and had O-rings for all of the hydraulic top cylinders. I do know that someone has gone to the trouble of making actual replacement duplicate seals like the ones from the factory. They look really well-made, but I do not know how good they are as they were WAAAAAY over my budget. (couple of hundred dollars at the time, as I recall.) You might also look into totally rebuilt assemblies as I have seen some offered that are much lower prices than they used to be. (It was about $500 each for new ones when I check before doing this video. They seem to run about half that now.) My O-ring repair is still working fine going on 4 years now, so it depends on how long you plan to keep your car as a guide to which route you want to take.Hope this helps.
Alden
I am at the Benz dealer. What size is the part ? As they don’t know
I don't think the Benz dealer actually sells just the seals. When I looked into it (again, almost 4 years ago) they would only sell the complete hydraulic unit assembly: the cylinder ram and latching mechanism, as on unit. Very not cheap. I would recommend checking online, like eBay or Amazon, to find someone who sells the set of seals or O-ring kits.
Alden
Donde esta mani for map sensor
I successfully resealed the cylinder and raised the top. Now, however, it will not go down. the lath will not unlatch. Can anyone help me?
Hi! I' not sure why it would act up, but it might be the microswitches that sense the window positions. Here's a video that shows how to reset the window switches at about 5:00 into it.
ruclips.net/video/5w0MLFAyCgg/видео.html
Not my video, but I hope it helps!
Alden
Mercedes benz clk 230 manifold map sensor donde esta
I am not sure, but here's a link to another video that mentions MAP sensors. Hope this helps.
ruclips.net/video/Zy3HajiGNh4/видео.html
No estoy seguro, pero aquí hay un enlace a otro video que menciona los sensores MAP. Espero que esto ayude.
Alden
Donde está manifold pressure sensor de mesedes benz slk230 1999
Donde está manifold pressure sensor de mersedec benz slk 230 1999
Hi! I haven't worked on an SLK230 (yet) and I am unfamiliar with the engine layout. Sorry I can't help on that one.
Alden
WTF are you doing, use the right seals and not something from the DIY store. The exact seals are available
I'll tell you what I was doing: in 2014 when this was made, there was ONE source of the REPRODUCTION ( not even OEM) seals. They were $250 for a set. The O-ring set I used was $19.99, lasted at least 4 more years, and worked fine. So go ahead and spend YOUR money however you want. I'm here to Save money. Which set did you use on YOUR R129?