I signed in so I could like and comment. You are the best, RJ, and your videos continue to be so easy to understand and just enjoyable to watch!! I found an old abused, abandoned MTB. It's aluminum so quite lightweight, but the low-end suspension fork is SO heavy! I would love to replace it with a simple rigid fork, but I have read that it is not straightforward to switch from a suspension fork to a rigid. BTW, I serviced that cheap RST Omni fork thanks to a video you made!!
First of all I would like to say that your movies are very good: not too long and not too short, 'normal' work without not necessary additieves. Also your speech/langauage is very simple with good pronuntation, with nice voice - good for not native English man like me:-) I'm very similar to you but living in Poland. I love to repair and renovate bikes on my home workshop/garage. Even I have build few trikes. It is my hobby and my pleasure/satisfaction zone after work. I have got question about type of bikes existing in your movies (old, steel, from around 1970-1980): is it very popular type of bikes used by people in your area of USA or you are just like such bikes? All the Best for 2025!
You measured enough times and did a clean job of cutting, but 150mm was the wrong length. Better either leave it unmodified so there's still zinc plating at the top of the threads and add a fork spacer between the brake cable hanger and top nut (any old one from an unthreaded fork would be fine), or cut it to approx 145mm so it didn't need an extra spacer above the cable hanger.
I did that before, replaced my low-end factory Suntour suspension fork with a rigid fork. It is so much better. There is more chatter in the handle bars, sure. But the straight line and steering control are much improved. Not looking back.
Nice R&R , I would’ve packed the bearings, but if less is best, why not, eh? I wonder what a chrome fork would’ve looked like? Good video, Happy New Year!😊
Looks much better with a rigid fork, I will never understand why people put modern shocks on a old school lugged frame bike, it just doesnt look right together.
Nice. For those stubborn bottom races heat it up a bit with a heat gun or blow torch, thats how I handle those stubborn parts, you don't need to apply a lot of heat just a few seconds to make the metal expand. But do it in a well ventilated away from things you don't want to catch fire. (ask me how I know😆) LOL I have been using that blue marine grease for years used it a lot when I worked on Motorcycles.
I have been rigid from Day 1 (1986 - Cannondale SM600).Never had suspension forks on my 26" MTBs, but then I am mostly a roadie so always felt they were just a waste of energy.
Here's the information about the recalled fork that I found on the Internet, just in case you have one of these old forks. "The Mag 20 and Mag 30 suspension forks have bright nickel finish and a "ROCKSHOX/MAGNESIUM" decal on the front of the fork. Forks with serial numbers 27266 through 158841 are involved in this recall. Forks with a dull bronze finish are not affected by this recall."
Love that Sika! This reminds me of my old 1991 Bianchi Tangent "Cross Terrain" bike...one of the earliest "gravel" bikes. My Tangent had the exact same paint color and decal style as this Sika and sported the Bianchi Superset II externally lugged triple butted Tange Prestige tubeset. Once I finally replaced all the stupid Suntour Accushift parts with Shimano parts, the bike was fantastic!
It certainly will affect riding characteristics of the bicycle, as fitting in a "shorter" fork will increase frame angles (seat-post tube and head tube, relative to the ground) - i.e. it will make them "greater" or more steep. Not by much, half a degree or so, but it will be felt - the sitting position will be somewhat less comfortable (but probably pedalling will be slightly more efficient) and steering characteristic will become "less stable but easier to turn the handlebar". Whether it will be an improvement or make the riding less enjoyable depends on the preferences of the rider and the angles of the frame - and also whether the fork itself is "suspension corrected" - i.e. with slightly longer "legs" to preserve the original riding position (this fork here does not look to me like "corrected"). Can't really say what kind of fork this frame was originally made for - looks to me a bit like it was originally made for a rigid fork (judging by the distance between top tube and down tube - which is much greater for frames intended for rigid forks - but then again this distance on this particular frame is somewhat smaller than I'd expect, so hard to say for certain). Anyway, IF this was the case ("a frame for rigid forks"), that means that when the bicycle was fitted with suspension fork it changed the "original" geometry to "more comfortable position but less suitable for riding uphill" (as the centre of gravity gets shifted toward the rear, the front wheel tend to "lift up" when pushing strongly on pedals) - but it could also be that the frame was made as some "in-between" style - that is for a suspension fork with only a small travel, or "jump distance" (5 cm or so, which was kinda normal back then, as opposed to more contemporary forks with travel of at least 10 cm). As I said before, this "top tube - down tube" distance here looks tad small for a regular riigid fork, so who knows what the final result (and riding characteristic) will be but it will likely be different.
@MrKotBonifacy thanks for your input, I always find it interesting how some bikes have great handling/ joy of riding characteristics and some are just down right terrible,.I understand automobile geometry but not bicycle. 😊
@@brittweir8844 Be my guest... : ) Basically, "bicycle geometry" boils down to seat tube angle, head tube angle, and the "rake"/ "leading" of the fork. For details, "Uncle Google is yer friend", and then there's this "bicycle Wikipedia" website named after late Sheldon Brown - and the address goes "sheldonbrown", followed by a customary dot and then the ubiquitous "com" tail, but if I'd type it like normal people would do, the bots on YT will most likely remove my comment. Cheers!
@@MrKotBonifacyхвала на одговору. Ако се сећаш има стари снимак са овим бициклом,где је Срам послао Рок Шок нову виљушку, али је била краћа од постојеће и није била са навојем.... Можда и неће сметати што се тиче дужине!
@@shonesymike4773 No, I do not remember watching this video you mentioned - I've watched SOME of his videos but certainly not all of them, not even half of them probably. I am (or rather "used to be") a hobby bicycle mechanic" just like him so most of what he shows is a stuff that I known very well myself, and I used to watch his videos out of curiosity - like "let's see how other folks approach the same task - maybe he's got some tricks up his sleeve that I could learn?" In fact, he did have few of them, but then equally I could tech him a thing or two, so "we're even", so to speak ;-) Cheers!
You should fit some sort of guard, using the hole through the fork crown, under the connector cable that runs between the brakes to prevent it from making contact with the tyre should the operating cable break or come loose. Might save your life or at least some of your teeth.
If you put a rigid "not corrected for suspension designed frame" fork it will make the bike kinda over-steering and less comfortable to ride, as the frame angles "relative to flat ground" will become tad steeper - so it'll effectively change slightly the geometry of the frame.
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
I still use the chain stick you came up with!😊
Between you and Sheldon Brown, I have learned so much about working on bicycles. Thank you!
RIP
nice having you back RJ!
Great to see you back!
Crystal clear as usual. Fun to watch. Thanks! Happy new year
Always a great watch. I do know how to do all these things, but it is always nice to see a real pro showing and giving the thought process.
I signed in so I could like and comment. You are the best, RJ, and your videos continue to be so easy to understand and just enjoyable to watch!! I found an old abused, abandoned MTB. It's aluminum so quite lightweight, but the low-end suspension fork is SO heavy! I would love to replace it with a simple rigid fork, but I have read that it is not straightforward to switch from a suspension fork to a rigid. BTW, I serviced that cheap RST Omni fork thanks to a video you made!!
Good to see u back making videos again,best wishes & happy new year. (Btw im watching this on new years day)
Good job. When I do those brakes, I use a wood racket clamp to use as a third hand. Works as a charm.
RJ, I have learned quite a lot from your bicycle videos and never tire of them! Wishing you and yours the best in 2025 and beyond!
Nice video, thanks! Wondering why no grease on the headset ball bearings ?
I greased the cups. That grease goes to the bearings since the bearings roll in the cups.
I agree.
I would have used more grease.
I would definitely have packed those bearing races and given the steerer tube an anti corrosion coating.
This is my next project on my commuter bike. Thanks so much for walking us through it!
Very cool they honored the recall so many years later.
Nice bianchi in céleste colour and welcome back. Besides the cycling stuff you've brightened up my days😊
Glad you're back R.J.!
Please keep going RJ. I have been missing you for a while.
I really enjoy watching your videos of how you repair bikes. I also repair bicycles and I like learning how to do it professionally.
Somehow those tabbed washers always turn...
Great old frame!
A lot of mechanics file down the key on them. All they do is wreck these threads…
This channel is very special, and very relaxing, thank you RJ
Another cool vid rj all the best and healthier new year buddy hope your ok😊
First of all I would like to say that your movies are very good: not too long and not too short, 'normal' work without not necessary additieves.
Also your speech/langauage is very simple with good pronuntation, with nice voice - good for not native English man like me:-)
I'm very similar to you but living in Poland. I love to repair and renovate bikes on my home workshop/garage. Even I have build few trikes. It is my hobby and my pleasure/satisfaction zone after work.
I have got question about type of bikes existing in your movies (old, steel, from around 1970-1980): is it very popular type of bikes used by people in your area of USA or you are just like such bikes?
All the Best for 2025!
Need to the same job on my mtb for city, nice guide.
And thanks to upload a vid in the last day of the year!!!💪🎆🧨🎉
Glad to see you Back 😊
Great to see RJ🎉
Another smooth operation from RJ, thanks!
The Bike Nashbar stem! I have a couple of those.
Glad you're back right brake is to far from thou
Looks good! I wonder why the other forks were recalled. Love these older bikes!
You measured enough times and did a clean job of cutting, but 150mm was the wrong length.
Better either leave it unmodified so there's still zinc plating at the top of the threads and add a fork spacer between the brake cable hanger and top nut (any old one from an unthreaded fork would be fine), or cut it to approx 145mm so it didn't need an extra spacer above the cable hanger.
Wrong leghth because of being measured one with brg.race and other without?,
@brittweir8844 he correctly measured 150 on the old fork, but with two washers, neither of which matched the cable hanger's thickness.
A nice Bianchi in a nice bianchi color. It would make a great comfy commuter.
excellent work, happy new year RJ
Muy bueno RJ, que tenga un excelente 2025!
I did that before, replaced my low-end factory Suntour suspension fork with a rigid fork. It is so much better. There is more chatter in the handle bars, sure. But the straight line and steering control are much improved. Not looking back.
Nice R&R , I would’ve packed the bearings, but if less is best, why not, eh? I wonder what a chrome fork would’ve looked like? Good video, Happy New Year!😊
Looks much better with a rigid fork, I will never understand why people put modern shocks on a old school lugged frame bike, it just doesnt look right together.
When that fork got replaced it was an "upgrade" and id be lying if there wasnt something to the skinny rock shox ..
RJthebikeguy vid!!!! Yay 🎉
Nice video. Bíanchi Celeste spray paint is readily available in the UK. I'm surprised you couldn't get it in the USA.
Yes, but it wouldn't be the same shade. It would look off. And it would be expensive at that.
Nice fork RJ! Thanks very much❤
That bike is a cool looking bike!!!
Nice.
For those stubborn bottom races heat it up a bit with a heat gun or blow torch, thats how I handle those stubborn parts, you don't need to apply a lot of heat just a few seconds to make the metal expand.
But do it in a well ventilated away from things you don't want to catch fire. (ask me how I know😆)
LOL I have been using that blue marine grease for years used it a lot when I worked on Motorcycles.
Happy new year 🎊
Nice looking bike.
why you didnt put grease on the headset bearings?
he put grease in the bearing cups.
I need to do a similar refit, so thanks!
did you make a vidjo with rebuilding of oil rockshocks?
Thank you!
And Happy New Year - 2025 🎉! Wish you all the best.
Keep up the good work of repairs.
Wishing you and yours a Happy New Year, RJ. Thank you for all your videos and great to see you are back. 👍
Great video, beautiful bike! Question. Would a pipe/tube cutter work in sizing the steerer tube, or is there a reason to steer away?
A nice, lugged frame like that looks much better with that fork.
Best wishes RJ for 2025
I have been rigid from Day 1 (1986 - Cannondale SM600).Never had suspension forks on my 26" MTBs, but then I am mostly a roadie so always felt they were just a waste of energy.
I noticed your ribbon tattoo. I could get an orange one since I am a MS patient. I hope that yours is only for a memory and everything is alright now!
I'm just about to do exactly the same: get rid of an old mag21 rockshock and put a rigid fork instead on a Trek 930! ❤
Now you need a black seat post
Surprised you didn’t put some grease on the posts before installing the brakes on the new fork…
The “posts”?
I like it!
Here's the information about the recalled fork that I found on the Internet, just in case you have one of these old forks. "The Mag 20 and Mag 30 suspension forks have bright nickel finish and a "ROCKSHOX/MAGNESIUM" decal on the front of the fork. Forks with serial numbers 27266 through 158841 are involved in this recall. Forks with a dull bronze finish are not affected by this recall."
Love that Sika! This reminds me of my old 1991 Bianchi Tangent "Cross Terrain" bike...one of the earliest "gravel" bikes. My Tangent had the exact same paint color and decal style as this Sika and sported the Bianchi Superset II externally lugged triple butted Tange Prestige tubeset. Once I finally replaced all the stupid Suntour Accushift parts with Shimano parts, the bike was fantastic!
Min 5:45 - don't hit crown race with dropouts on a surface, it can damage the dropouts
Дали има проблема при вожњи због разлике у дужинама виљушке 🤔🤔?
It certainly will affect riding characteristics of the bicycle, as fitting in a "shorter" fork will increase frame angles (seat-post tube and head tube, relative to the ground) - i.e. it will make them "greater" or more steep. Not by much, half a degree or so, but it will be felt - the sitting position will be somewhat less comfortable (but probably pedalling will be slightly more efficient) and steering characteristic will become "less stable but easier to turn the handlebar".
Whether it will be an improvement or make the riding less enjoyable depends on the preferences of the rider and the angles of the frame - and also whether the fork itself is "suspension corrected" - i.e. with slightly longer "legs" to preserve the original riding position (this fork here does not look to me like "corrected").
Can't really say what kind of fork this frame was originally made for - looks to me a bit like it was originally made for a rigid fork (judging by the distance between top tube and down tube - which is much greater for frames intended for rigid forks - but then again this distance on this particular frame is somewhat smaller than I'd expect, so hard to say for certain).
Anyway, IF this was the case ("a frame for rigid forks"), that means that when the bicycle was fitted with suspension fork it changed the "original" geometry to "more comfortable position but less suitable for riding uphill" (as the centre of gravity gets shifted toward the rear, the front wheel tend to "lift up" when pushing strongly on pedals) - but it could also be that the frame was made as some "in-between" style - that is for a suspension fork with only a small travel, or "jump distance" (5 cm or so, which was kinda normal back then, as opposed to more contemporary forks with travel of at least 10 cm). As I said before, this "top tube - down tube" distance here looks tad small for a regular riigid fork, so who knows what the final result (and riding characteristic) will be but it will likely be different.
@MrKotBonifacy thanks for your input, I always find it interesting how some bikes have great handling/ joy of riding characteristics and some are just down right terrible,.I understand automobile geometry but not bicycle. 😊
@@brittweir8844 Be my guest... : )
Basically, "bicycle geometry" boils down to seat tube angle, head tube angle, and the "rake"/ "leading" of the fork. For details, "Uncle Google is yer friend", and then there's this "bicycle Wikipedia" website named after late Sheldon Brown - and the address goes "sheldonbrown", followed by a customary dot and then the ubiquitous "com" tail, but if I'd type it like normal people would do, the bots on YT will most likely remove my comment.
Cheers!
@@MrKotBonifacyхвала на одговору. Ако се сећаш има стари снимак са овим бициклом,где је Срам послао Рок Шок нову виљушку, али је била краћа од постојеће и није била са навојем.... Можда и неће сметати што се тиче дужине!
@@shonesymike4773 No, I do not remember watching this video you mentioned - I've watched SOME of his videos but certainly not all of them, not even half of them probably.
I am (or rather "used to be") a hobby bicycle mechanic" just like him so most of what he shows is a stuff that I known very well myself, and I used to watch his videos out of curiosity - like "let's see how other folks approach the same task - maybe he's got some tricks up his sleeve that I could learn?"
In fact, he did have few of them, but then equally I could tech him a thing or two, so "we're even", so to speak ;-)
Cheers!
Suspension corrected fork?
That thing is all the trend now. Multi terrain bike
Its stuff i knew but always nice for a refresher for a teacher like u. Well done like normal
Bike looks good. Happy new year rj.
Nice forks those won't need a stich of maintenance..
Never say fork off❤
👍
I dream about owning park tools but that will never happen 😂
you had problems with the fork thickness, maybe it was better to cut less fork
It needs an electric motor...Then its a usable...🔥🚀
You should fit some sort of guard, using the hole through the fork crown, under the connector cable that runs between the brakes to prevent it from making contact with the tyre should the operating cable break or come loose. Might save your life or at least some of your teeth.
The fork looks good.
Rigid all the way.
If you put a rigid "not corrected for suspension designed frame" fork it will make the bike kinda over-steering and less comfortable to ride, as the frame angles "relative to flat ground" will become tad steeper - so it'll effectively change slightly the geometry of the frame.
my clown bike mechanic they over tighten my quick release ugh.. why??? its to be snug only.
Looks horrible....just kidding looks great!!