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Epoxy resin - casting technique to get rid of air bubbles - no pressure pot needed
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2024
- Epoxy resin - casting technique to get rid of air bubbles - no pressure pot needed. In this video I will do four trials to show off how to improve your epoxy casting quality and reduce air bubbles in your resin. This will work for jewelry making, or any other casting needs.
Attention please! Thanks to this awesome community, mainly Pam from Highlandboxes ( check out her awesome channel here - / pamharris101 ) it came to light that I was using incorrect proportions when mixing my epoxy. On my Epoxy it actually says it's 1:1 volume ratio - hence you can't use scales! Just use two containers with the same amount of part A and part B. There are also epoxies that have 1:1 weight ratio so please read the description of your epoxy carefully so you don't make the same mistake as I did! Pam thank you again for pointing this out!
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I have made a Series of videos talking about Resin Basics, Resin Tutorial if you want to check it out then here is a link to the first video - ruclips.net/video/BEwgDjoZAbE/видео.html
Casual DIY do you pour it in by 5’s?
Thank you so much.
Pro Tip: Use a kabob (small Round stick) to do your mixing. Flat, things like popsickle sticks, introduce air despite your mixing action. The resin rolling back in introduces air. A round mix stick will do the same job but introduces MUCH less air. Using heat + round stick+ slow stir + flaming the stream during the pour I have attained crystal clear results (same resin) without a pressure pot.
Hi, that is a pro tip thanks! Need to get some 😁
best place, at least in my country, is the grocery store (market?).
@@natraz823 hi it's a good tip for slow setting epoxy but it needs a hefty investment in the equipment. And usually the time needed to get air bubbles from epoxy in a vacuum chamber is much longer. Some epoxys can't be put in the vaccum chamber either as it will impact on the chemical reaction in the epoxy, so it's worth checking the full information booklet on the epoxy you have👍
Do not use wood stick because tend to absorb part of the component and the rough surtace retain part of them too. Use glass or plastics stirrers
@@sergioagodoy8357 that's a good tip, thanks👍
For those who buys resin in a larger quantity (gallon) I recommend you to get from the dollar store condiment bottles. Either the colored ones (red and yellow) or the clear bottles. Way easier to control how much you pour when measuring. Also if you use small amount at the time (like making jewelry and such) get clear medicine cups. They are clear, and they are perfect for measuring. Whatever is left on the bottom after use easily pops out the cup and you can reuse them over and over.
That was a great experiment! With Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast resin I find it pays to try and not introduce any bubbles to begin with, by using a thinner mixing stick (bamboo skewers cut in half), don't stir too fast, and keep the stirrer in contact with the bottom of the mixing vessel. I am so good at it now I can mix a shot glass without a single bubble :D
Great tip thank you. I actually got some toothpicks that should be just fine?
Sure, for mixing a shot glass they should work a treat :)
@@resinAce Thank you, really appreciate your comment and tip :)
nice tip ty
resinAce : resinace is the man so take his opinion to heart for sure!
Thank you for posting your video, I make batches of around 8 - 10 gram and I basically do the same as you (trial C) but I do another step after that. I use a syringe (without needle) to suck up the epoxy and poor it onto my products. By doing that it is as if the remaining bubbles go to the top of the syringe, you can see them very well and I just stop the syringe when the bubbles come close to the bottom. Then I suck up again more epoxy. The second advantage is, that you can dose very accurately and bring the epoxy at the place you want it to be. I clean the syringe afterwards with acetone, it works really well.
Good tip thanks for sharing I may check that out 😁👍
@@CasualDIY Maybe I should explain better. When I suck up the epoxy in the syringe, there are no visible air bubbles in the epoxy, but it is as when the epoxy is sucked through the small syringe opening that creates some “tension” in the epoxy and that activates the tiny (invisible) air bubbles to “clump” together to become a bigger visible bubble that stays in the top of the syringe, especially when the epoxy is “pre-heated” so it is thinner.
My two cents: Mix the two components inside a plastic bag having all the air squeezed out the top prior to mixing. You will not get a single bubble. Just punch a hole in the bag when you are sick of kneeding and gently push the stream of epoxy wherever you want it to land. No bubbles, no clean up, no sweat.
Not seen that one before, got me intrigued🤔
@@CasualDIY I guess I have done too much epoxy mixing in my project. All were small batches > 1 g apiece so using cups became quickly uneconomical because of left overs. I started cutting plastic bags into squares intended as lining and it evolved from there.
@@kokeskokeskokes very cool idea mate
I'm gonna try your method and see how it goes. Seems like homemade vacuum chamber! I'm working with large molds and the torch is not enough to burst the bottom bubbles.
@@perseus6852 Awesome.
Might want to redo this and add a pour to it, since most people mix in one container then pour into another. Using a High thin pour helps get rid of many of the bubbles introduced by mixing.
Attention please! Thanks to this awesome community, mainly Pam from Highlandboxes ( check out her awesome channel here -ruclips.net/user/pamharris101 ) it came to light that I was using incorrect proportions when mixing my epoxy. On my Epoxy it actually says it's 1:1 volume ratio - hence you can't use scales! Just use two containers with the same amount of part A and part B. There are also epoxies that have 1:1 weight ratio so please read the description of your epoxy carefully so you don't make the same mistake as I did! Pam thank you again for pointing this out!
I only caught this, because I'm new to this, and made the same mistake myself on my first little trial. It still worked okay, as a I guess a touch more hardener is okay, while a touch less probably would not be. Anyway, you can still mix epoxies by weight, you just need to know the specific densities and calculate accordingly. Epoxy is about 15% heavier than hardener, by volume.
You can and should use a scale. Weigh the A and B bottles fresh out of the box and use that to determine the ratio. For Alumilite I multiply the A weight by .8 and it cures without fail.
I most often used one ounce batches that were specified to be 1:1 by Volume and I would very carefully measure out the hardener and resin by eye. Then I weighed them precisely and determined the ratio to mix them in grams...To the nearest second digit on my scales. Works beautifully and you can do some math to figure out larger and smaller batches.
You can use scales conveniently if you know how many grams of hardener to use with X grams of resin.
One thing that has to be considered when using by volume o by weight, is that always one of the component is more viscous than the other, so when transferring one onto the other you always will have remaining part of that component in the vase. The best system is by weight where you weigh one component, tare of the scale and add the second component carefully and you will have always the correct proportion.
Much better result, and saved a couple of 100€ not having to buy a vacuum. Thanks a lot man...
I use slow epoxy, takes 72 hours to cure but after a few mins in hot water premix, and 30-40 mins in a water bath after, I get super good results. Also try platic or metal to stir, i find dry wood releases air sometimes.
What 30-40 min. temperature of water do you prefer? Or different temps for different project?
I dont measure the temp, usually if i can manage the water on my hands its hot enough, all projects are treated the same way.
@@GondozaSulo Thanks, I think this is best info on epoxy! Thanks, I can even see wood stir sticks outgassing as stirred, very cool, I can see that!
By far the best video I’ve seen regarding epoxy resin and eliminating bubbles!!! I’m so excited to try again!
Thank you kindly, I'm glad you liked it 👍
Check out my epoxy projects - ruclips.net/video/9cnRy47f1-g/видео.html
Great demonstration. I use a pressure pot for resin, and I just ordered a vacuum chamber for silicone. Hobbies ain't cheap - might as well go for it.
Yes got the same set up and sure its not cheap unfortunately. But hey I always say you could just blow through that money. But in our case its an investment 👍
I work in the dental field, and it is ideal for us to use a vibrating plaque to remove air bubbles when casting rock or plaster.
A word of caution, make sure you use a slow setting epoxy. Heat will exponentially increase the reaction velocity, so be careful heating it once mixed. The pot life on the datasheet will be half that time or less depending on how much heat you expose it to, which as it sets will make it more difficult to pour - introducing more air bubbles, etc.
Thank you for using a scale. I watch so many people eye it. That's fine for someone that's been mixing a product for years, but for teaching first timers this is the way to do it. Cheers
Just one thing to mention there are two types of resin when it comes to mix in ratios. One is mixed by weight and the other by volume. Always check which one you got👍
1:1 mixes you really don't need to use a scale...
Blowing it with a hairdryer while mixing helps a lot too.
An extra tip from a newbie here - ditch the wooden lolly stick for stirring, which is essentially a series of tall straws fused together - ie full of air. *Mix with a silicone stick instead.*
You can and its a great tip. However I have not noticed any difference when using a wooden lolly stick.
this is much appreciated by me. Just getting into resins and trying to make decisons on what expensive gear I actually need. Thank you!
In a month time I will have a full tutorial resin basics, about 9 episodes so there's a lot of cool content coming👍
@@CasualDIY Thanks! I've subscribed so I won't miss it!
@@mookzmom welcome to my small community 👍
I use Amazing Clear Cast Resin. I simply throw both of the sealed bottles in a sink full of really hot tap water for about 10 minutes, then dry the bottles (a must do, so a stray drip of water doesn't fall into the resin), then mix & pour as usual. I'm also careful not to mix the resin too quickly so I won't be so apt to introduce air into the resin. I rarely have bubbles but if I do, I quickly hit them with a heat gun.
Very good thorough process mate👍
Thank you, thank you, Thank you! Your “D” method worked like a charm! I’am new to epoxy. My first tumbler had so many small bubbles! My next two tumblers are bubble free!
Your welcome, glad I was able to help 👍
I have no experience with epoxy, I making tables and benches so epoxy will fix cracks on my wood, Yours video show me is not so easy for beginners like me.Thank You
The topic of resin is vast and the best way to learn is to experiment 👍
Squeeze the air out of your epoxy bottles before you flip them. That way air doesn't mix inside the container before you even start the pore. I find poring onto the popsicle stick releases the bubbles during mixing. Always remembering to pore and mix them slowly. I always use heat as well even if I cheat a step. I never tried warming my epoxy. Good tip I'll give it a try.
I’m doing research because I want to make a set of d&d dice for my fiancé, but I don’t want to spend hundreds to get a pressure pot... I’m hoping I can get a decently clear pour because major air bubbles will throw off the dice balance. Great video for new beginners to follow along to. Hopefully when I pour them they come out clear
Thank you, I hope they will come out great for you👍
For something that small I'd recommend polyester resin. A bit cheaper and smells a lot funkier, however I've found that even with vigorous mixing no bubbles appear. Polyester resin also polishes up to a much more glass like finish over epoxy.
My gf is doing a lot with resin, i Also help out so now and then.
When we use 2 compound resin, we look for a long curing time, the one we have is fully cured after 5 days ( 48 hours curing time for light handeling)
We found out that the slow curing time reduces the amount of bubbles, but i do still reccomand what this video said to increase the no bubble quality if you don't want to use vacuüm
Alumilate has a page that could definitely help. Amazing clear cast is a great option and you can get 20% off right now June 2020 using code Amazingsavings
@@LypexGamer one thing about polyester resin is that it is very sensitive to moisture while curing. I failed a lot because the air was too humid. It bubbles like crazy.
Great video! I love how you tested out several different methods and saw the project all the way through to hardening.
Thank you very much, glad you liked it 😁👍
For my projects ill keep using my pressure pot. Thanks
Your part A is quite thick. When that happens to me, due to environment temperature, I put the whole bottle in hot water. This way it's much easier to get the right amount out of the bottle, it mixes a lot easier and it reduces bubbles.
Another thing you can do is use a mug or candle warmer. It's like a heated coaster. After mixing put your cup with the mixed resin on the warmer and leave for about 10 minutes. All bubbles will be gone.
I wouldn't use the kitchen lighter until after you have poured your resin in the mould you want to use and after you have added any fillers you want to use like glitter, shells, flowers, etc. Usually you'll get some bubbles after adding these, especially flowers and shells will do that. So it's best to use the lighter at the very end before you leave it to set. I usually check again after half an hour to see if more bubbles have come up (again, you'll see this often when you use flowers and shells). If you see any bubbles after half an hour, use the lighter again but hold it a bit longer on the area with the bubbles as it will soften the resin which has started to get thick by that time. When you do that, you won't be left with a crater where the bubble was but the resin will level again.
Another thing you can do is when you use a mould with sharp edges and corners, use a toothpick and glide it along the bottom edge in the resin. Often bubbles will sit in corners or edges and they're not always easy to see. You'll only notice it when you take your finished project out if the mould; you'll have some sharp edges holes in the corner and edges and sanding is the only way to get rid of it then.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much. This will help me a lot with my current project.
I'm glad that my video was some help👍
I was looking for how to DIY pressure pot and this video came up as suggestion.......... Well it's my lucky day :)
I hope it will help you in your project👍
Thank you so much for this video. Great tips. I have been so frustrated with my results this far. I will try these tips today.
Thank you, hope it will work for you well👍
THANK YOU! This technic is by far the best! I was very happy with the results, day and night!
Thanks for making this video
I'm happy that my video was helpful:) thank you :)
Would using some kind of vibration plate/ on a very low setting bring the bubble's to the top ,then pop them with heat, just my thoughts 🙂
Already tested that with mediocre results
A lot of my family has Polish accents but I live in the US, so they sound different than your UK Polish accent! Thanks for the video, though. I've been using epoxy for a while but have been having problems with bubbles more frequently now that I'm expanding to larger and denser pieces. Dzięki!
Hehe yes I think the accent depends on where you live and them you pick up the little language nuances that are specific to that area. If it helps I just made another video about some resin basics ruclips.net/video/BEwgDjoZAbE/видео.html
It's definitely different to UK Polish accents I hear in the South of England too, you seem to have picked up a lot of Midlands!
@@kkcty hehe could be 🤣
well friend Thomas I confess that I was mixing resin A with B in randome way but after seeing your video now many mistakes I found that I made,and I shall avoid,thanx buddy,you are super,,Badr.
Glad that my videos were some help to you. All the best and stay safe 👍
Oh bless your soul for making this
Thank you👍😁
Great video. I think if you find a longer curing resin the air bubbles will have more time to escape. You can use a small heat gun to warm up the mix after both a and b are mixed together. The resin should be almost water like, as there is no need to use a torch. You are dealing with vapors toxins and flammable materials please read the msds before using heat on epoxy... Wear a mask use ventilation and keep the epoxy away from sources of heat.
All good points👍
I warm my resin before hand and work under a heater vent, I pour in small layers and take bubbles out with a lighter ad whatever I need to then pour again popping bubbles as I go. I check it every 5 minutes for about 30 minutes to pop more bubbles and make sure nothing moves. I use a .9mm pencil lead to shift things back (Cleans easy). I also use small plastic stir sticks and stir each resin part separate for a minute before adding them together.( The bottle says too)
That sounds like a bubble free process very demanding tho
How do you clean pencil lead out of uncured epoxy?
@@robira1313 I've never had it leave any lead behind or had it make marks. So I'm not sure, maybe use a tooth pick?
This entire time I've been trying to figure out how to not have air bubbles in the epoxy for my special project when I should have thought that that really doesn't matter as long as there's no fractures in it.
Thanks for sharing your results and techniques. I can't wait to try these out for my projects!
Glad you found it informative 👍
Amazing! This was exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!
Thanks, glad it was some help👍
That's it! I'm using method "D" from now on! Thank you! 😁
Thank you for watching
Thank you for doing this experiment, it is exactly what I needed to see, most appreciated!!
Glad I was some help👍
These ideas are a start, and lots of good tips in the comments. Epoxy mixing is by volume not weight. The two parts have different specific gravities. In larger amounts this will be a problem. I am building a vacuum pot for videos I have seen on RUclips. Surprisingly simple. Cheers.
Great video, well explained! Thanks for making this!
No problem, glad you found it useful
I use a warm water bath for the bottles before mixing especially if my house isn't that warm. I like my temps around 65F but resin loves 70F and higher. :P Torching is also one of my favorite things. It's fun. - Heidi
Hi, yes I do warm the bottles now as well as it's winter and it's difficult to keep that sweet spot with the temperature:)
@@CasualDIY Might want to find a torch with a pinpoint cone shaped flame. :) I finally did at my local store. They are the same size as the other torches but the cone flame works so much better for getting in there. Only drawback I found is they are not able to be refilled but that is okay because the pretty blue flame is so awesome and it works so much better. :)
@@BlackCat_2 hmm that could be something worth checking out as well just need to be careful no to burn the epoxy ;)
@@CasualDIY It should be fine. :) They are the same size as the other torches and sold in the same area of my stores. Just a different fuel and flame. :) Sometimes looking at the package can show you what kind of flame. I just bought four different ones and found the one with the right flame. :) I save the others for lighting my propane heating system in winter.
@@BlackCat_2 need to have a look for those then, thanks :)
for anyone doing the water one do not try using hot water from a thermos i used it it worked fine for my first cast i did but my second one it cured within 10 min or nearly cured i was shocked. btw first time making it so yea >.> hope it helps
component A and B in cup B and Cup A ....! confusing, maybe next time you can call the cups 1,2,3 and 4 :)
I managed to find a really tiny classroom grade manual pressure pot for around $50 US. It hasn't arrived yet so I can't evaluate how good it is, but it's called the vac-10 from educational innovations for those wanting to find it.
What's best way to remove micro bubbles in the resin. I'm still new to this and getting micro bubbles in finished items.
The best way is to use a Resin pressure pot
Fantastic video! I have just started playing with resin in knife making and I have been looking for some tricks to help with the air bubbles before I take the leap to making or buying a pressure pot. Wonderful pointers, I especially loved the comparison of the methods. Thank you!
Glad I was able to help :)
THANK YOU SO MUCH for making this video. It helped me enormously 👍. Warmest Maria 😀
I'm glad it was some help to you. You may be interested in my resin tutorial series as well where I go.in detail about all the basics when working with resin. I recommend that you check them out as well👍😁
@@CasualDIY I will definitely do that. Thanks again, excellent tutorial 👏👍
@@healingsupportbeam7873 😁👍
after you pour your mixed resin into a mold put it over a lamp with a wire cookie sheet(cookie cooler?) over the light bulb, the light must be facing up or it won't work, this makes the resin set faster and thinner as it sets so you have even fewer bubbles, this works really well unless you are using a closed mold, then the bubbles get stuck at the top and it makes swiss cheese-like plastic, I've never tried taking the bubbles out before i pour it in a mold, i let you know if its still cheese
Interesting technique 👍
A couple tips for you to master this craft, Mr. DIY:
29 C is better for your ambient shop temp. I heat my epoxy work room studio, and soak my gallon container epoxies in hot water for whatever time it takes to make them fluid and workable. 85 F is ideal.
For my epoxies that works out fine and if it is warmer than that, I need to work quickly because they generate heat on mixing and harden fast.
Wood will soak up the resin because wood is porous and has air in it, and guess what comes out? billions of tiny fogging Bubbles. Fail!
Seal your tongue suppressor pine stir sticks with acrylics. Just paint them a couple times. No more tiny bubbles.
They can be used many times over.
Thank you that's some awsome tips👍
You can use scales. I do all the time.
Here is how. This is to be done with all the different brands of resins used.
Make precise identical marks on the outsides of two identical polyethylene cups.
There called 'portion cups'. You can go with larger cups if you want even more precision.
Put the Resin marked cup on your scales and tare, or zero the scales.
Your scales will ignore the weight of the cups and then measure only the resin by grams to a tenth that you will carefully fill to the mark, and write the measurement, like 12.5 Grams.
This is your Holy Guide Number, and you must record and inscribe it everywhere.
So now you did this with both your resin and hardener you have two numbers like R-12.5 Hdnr- 11.
Pour them into your mixing cup and do your resin job.
Later if you want to do a smaller project with about half of that last batch. Divide 12.5 and 11 by 2.
Whip out your calculator. Or tell Siri to figure it out for you ;-)
If you want to do 50 countertops of a huge bar or restaurant with that resin using huge amounts of resin, just mix 12.5 Gallons with 11 gallons of hardner. It's that easy and so much fun.
Mor later.
@@timrockman7 thanks for that I was actually looking for that information 😁 your explanation is perfect thanks 👍
My Amazing clear cast doesnt come in bottles like this for the same size and makes a mess trying to pour. Any idea where to get just these bottles?
I use clear condiment bottles for ketchup and mustard. They are squeeze bottles with small tips, which makes it much easier to pour.
Very helpful video Tomasz, some really great tips!
Thank you kindly
Surely warming up the resin would cause it to cure quicker reducing your pot life? As for resin to harden it goes through an exothermic reaction (heats up) to cure 🤔
That's correct. But the resin I use has got a 50 minute working time and the temperature from warm water doesn't change that too much. Remember it's only hot tap water not boiling water from the kettle. Epoxy works in much higher temperatures- depending on epoxy as they are all different.
Thomas, great tips 😊Thank you . Will give it a try.
In glad you liked it, hope you will also get good results :)
what is the best place with good quality,and reasonable price to buy epoxy resin A and B for making krafts,and table river ? thanx in advance,,Badr.
Hi, personally I use resin from ResinPro. Fantastic resin plus everything you could think off to do any project. Check out their website resinpro.eu and you can use my discount code to get 10% off. The code is casualdiy
I have silicone cupcake cups i mix my epoxy it. makes it very easy to get it all out.
MephistoRolling I use the same thing and can’t believe I tried so many different types of molds prior. No release agent needed.
wow that's very clever! maybe i will try that
Thanks
If one pours the epoxy into a silicone mold how does heat up the epoxy with warm water? The silicone acts as an insulator keeping the heat away from the epoxy. Using the “flamethrower” is the easiest way to remove bubbles...although not perfect.
Before you pour it into the mold mix it in a container that you can put in warm water and then gently and slowly pour it into the mold. That could work I think.
Would this work with sorta clear?, it's a silicone for making molds, I got a ton if bubbles in my mold
Not sure not used it.
Thank you!
Glad I was able to help
Good information! Thanks for sharing. Trying some resin project now actually. :-)
Awsome glad my video was some help :)
This was great information. I'm learning myself. Thank you. 👍🕉
Glad you like it 😁 thank you for your comment and for watching 👍
I pound on the table to induce vibration to help the air find its way to the top. 3 minute mix /5 minute wait . Then pour
Yep that could help as well👍
Hey man, after that post, what would happen if you put the mix into or on an ultrasonic cleaner?
@@TheDentman22 I heard about that but the results are no where near as good as pressure pot. Better than nothing tho. But you have to use epoxy with long working time.
Love the channel! Glad I found you! I make resin shell tidepools and this will help me out alot 💎🐚✌
Thank you kindly like music to my ears 😁
Hi friend this is Harmeet Singh you doing a good job please share with us a cheeper amount to spend to get a great results hope you understand byee
Hi how long does resin take to set pls I have got arc epoxy thanks 👍
Hi, every resin is different and it depends on conditions like ambient temperature, how much resin you using in your casting. You will find this information on the data sheet that should come with your resin
What about using a heat mat instead of a water bath? The moulds themselves could also be sat on the mat?
Never used anything like that but could be an interesting option.
Tom.. you keep your garage at in house temps? even at night? Well not bad.. but how would you do a large batch? say for a table or display cube? a lot of work, a lot of room.. vacuum or pressure I think is still better for a larger job.. This was impressive never the less and I think you are on to something.. keep experimenting and refining the processes.. thanks for the share, carry on, be safe and have fun..
Thanks👍 I think the resins for "river tables" and large pours are design to self de-gas but still certain conditions need to be kept. With resin it's a must to keep good ambient temperature unfortunately👍
@@CasualDIY Well I thank you for your information.. every bit of knowledge helps.. Carry on my friend..
VERY NICE - THANK YOU !!!
Um glad you liked it 👍
I set both parts and the mold on a warm heating pad overnight.
Nice video and explanation, I am just getting into resin pouring myself, I would be interested in seeing a video of a much bigger mix and you using your trusted method of getting air out, and pouring a project, the very small pour that you showed in those little cups is not really what a good example , just my thought.
Hi. I'm actually producing a series of videos about some basics about resin. I get what you saying about larger pours the trouble with that is it takes a lot of resin which costs a lot of money. And I just can't afford to just do it for the video and currently I don't have a project that would be that big. But stay tuned it may happen in the future👍
G’day mate, the epoxy is quite the rage but the stuff stinks lol, keep up the great work buddy 🍻👍👍👍
Cheers mate. It all depends on the epoxy you use. The one I'm using now doesn't smell at all, or I'm that used to it now ;)
from my experience, epoxy does not stink, but polyester doooooes a lot!
Awesome, I hope it works the same with polyesther resin
I ask my supplier for a modified epoxy and it is already too thin, popping up all the bubbles.
Besides this I have a good temperature on my side of 50⁰C outside and 42⁰C room temperature.
can we use a household vacume cleaner intake to draw a vacume?
Not to that extent that's needed.
I really and truly thank you for being so nice,and the site you gave me which sells resin only serves Europe countries,and I am in Suadi Arabia,again thanx and my best regards,,Badr.
You are so welcome!
Either wax the stir stick or use metal to stir. Wood sticks produce bubbles
Love your tips and demonstrations.....
Thanks, got few more videos now about resin and how to use it. Hopefully those videos will be some help as well 👍
ive never done this before but I was wondering if you put the stick in first while you pour your mixtures inside... Im thinking this because I think introducing the stick afterwards is actually what is adding the air.
Wood anything makes air bubbles
It depends on what kind of resin your using. I've tried it but after 5 minutes of room temperature water I had one big lump and had no use for it anymore.
Hi, yes this will only work on slow setting epoxy. My epoxy got a work8ng time of around 40 minutes.
If you had 5 minute work time that'll happen, it's better to get the stuff that takes longer, once it goop's you're done. I learned that the hard way, now I use a timer when working!
You might make clear how IMPORTANT it is to scrape the sides and bottom well, when mixing, or you can get soft spots.
Yes it is very important to fully mix and scrape the walls and bottom of the container. That is very true and may hinder your final outcome
Amazing idea
Thank you 👍
Try glasscast 50 . No bubbles but takes longer to set.
Yes bought it already. Not used it yet as I'm redoing my workshop at the minute but yes can't wait to give it a go. And Santa brought me a pressure pot as well so lots of fun coming soon ;)
By far, the best trick I use is combining the two parts with silicone (to not introduce micro bubbles from the wood stick, which has air in it), place it on a cheap coffee cup warmer (or you could use a water bath) until the bubbles rise, torch, let settle, torch again and voila! No bubbles. I cast pen blanks and bubbles will cause the blank to blow out when turning. The only caveat is that if you heat too much or for too long, it will start to set faster than the normal open time. That's fine with me because I need the separation between colors, but I still have to work faster than normal when pouring each color if I've left it on the warmer too long.
Unfortunately, there used to be a great product called Ice Resin that off-gassed completely no matter how many bubbles it had. Then, it was bought by Ranger and the price went up by at least 30% and they seem to have changed the formula. Bummer. It was the best ever until Ranger got hold of it.
Nice solid process 👍😁
Hey! I saw that in test D uh used blow torch for removing air bubbles....Can we use heat gun for the same ? Wont it burn the plastic?
With the heat gun or blow torch you have to be very careful not to burn the container or resin. You only need a second of heat to go over the resin to pop the air bubbles, it comes down to practice and checking what works for you I guess👍
A much needed video!
Thank you kindly:)
Newby subscriber here.👋 Good video✌️
Thank you kindly 👍😁
WOW great tip THANKS
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks for the informative video! I actually did my first trial with resin yesterday and I was cup A 😂
I'm glad you found it interesting😁 thanks for watching 👍
Lol everybody is cup A the first time
@@NeitherSparky yep, I know I was 🤣
Cut the round bottom from the popsicle stick with a blade to make it square so when mixing you can get right in the corners for a more even mix.
Thanks mate so simple but so effective. Great tip.
Cool, but in what project could you suspend your work in warm water?
You don't. You leave it there for a while and then transfer it to your mould.
@@CasualDIY AHHH. I see. Thanks.
using a scale is an amazing idea to get equal parts of resin!!
TopFurret it’s gives equal weight, which doesn’t always mean equal parts.
TopFurret doesn’t work with all resins as hardener usually weighs less than the resin thats why measuring is important
Tom & Melody are both right, but that's not quite the whole story. Some resins are specified with their ratio in volume, while others specify it in weight (some don't even use equal parts, but that's a beside the point). Using the wrong method of measuring a given resin will - as the others explained - generally give you less than ideal results. Except when they give you disastrous results. Or when you get really, really lucky... but I don't know much about luck.
Instructions say 1 to 1 by volume. So 4 grams is going to equal 4 grams. Whether it is part A or part B.
It doesn’t sound like
You have any kind of respirator on.. do you use protection with this brand?
In theory you should use respirator at all times using any resins. It's my choice not to do so. I tend to use products that are high quality not mega toxic and don't produce massive amounts of fumes or any smell in that matter. But I would not recommend not wearing a respirator to anyone when working with resin.
Great done! Thanks!
You are very good at explaining things. How about a video on ways to remove bubbles you don't see until after it cures?
Thank you. I think the best method for that is the pressure pot👍
@@CasualDIY I realize that is good for preventing. What about after the resin has cured and you want to salvage it rather than pitch it and start over wasting more resin?
Great great tip especially for a beginner. I appreciate....
Thanks, you may also be interested in my series of videos about some resin basics, here's the link if you want to check it out
ruclips.net/video/BEwgDjoZAbE/видео.html
@@CasualDIY Thank You. I will...
:>) thanks for video just have to say using wood stir sticks creates air bubbles, use plastic or silicone stir sticks and leave in hot water after stirring for 10 minutes and a torch to eliminate remaining bubbles after pouring:>) All the best wishes from Canada 2021.
Thank you kindly for watching 👍
Very helpful, thanks. Have you tried a UV lamp? I think I've seen others use one. Also, you can get electric Epoxy stirrers/mixers....wonder if they would produce less air bubbles? x
Hi. Not been using UV epoxy yet but not sure it's any good for deep pours. I think the electric mixers would introduce a lot of air bubbles. Altho I'm thinking of getting a pressure pot... if my budget allows it ;)