Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
YES!!!!!! THIS is the detailed information I have been waiting for!!!! Thank you so much for doing this for us, Robert!!! If you had a powerful enough telescope and could train it on me, you would be watching me do a little jig of spastic-happiness... dancing around my computer, with a turtle in one hand, and a donut in my other hand... while singing praises in your name!!!
Anneka Brimhall You can send pics to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com. If I can get my act together at some point I will put together a Facebook group or discord server, something like that.
A million points for packing tape and cardboard. I've used corrugated cardboard covered with packing tape, held together with hot glue, for years to make mold forms. I started using packing tape around 2013. Before that I used glossy cardboard because platinum cure silicone wouldn't stick to it. At some point I couldn't find glossy finished cardboard to make a form and the thought hit me that I could use packing tape. I've extolled the cheapness and versatility of packing tape, cardboard and hot glue to many people doing silicone molds and most of them continue to use things like LEGO, or L boards and clamps (I made a few sets of L boards before I started using cardboard and pressure casting the molds.) or other items that are cumbersome and give poor results. Apparently they think it just can be that simple and easy. I've been in this as a business since the late 1990's. Followed a lot of advice early on that gave poor results but over time I came up with techniques that are easy, low cost, and make good molds and castings. I mostly make reproduction parts for classic cars, including pieces that have gone onto cars shown at Hershey and other concours d'elegance shows. It all started with a need for a pair of tail light lenses for a 1953 Hudson Super Wasp... I had one good but faded lens, made a latex mold supported with fiberglass and cast new lenses with clear polyester casting resin and a ton of transparent red dye. The results were terrible but with a lot of sanding and polishing they worked. I'd grown up in a ceramics business where I learned about mold making concepts, which applied to fiberglass (I made some parts for a Mustang, still have the molds, people want the parts but don't want to pay enough to cover the materials cost) and also to silicone. Thankfully with silicone undercuts and other things not possible with plaster or fiberglass can be done.
It’s amazing to me that you think you are cranky or whiny at all, it’s so wholesome seeing you work that if it weren’t for the overlay I wouldn’t even be able to tell you were annoyed in the slightest! Honestly those containers would annoy me too if i was used to working with something better ;)
I cut up my failed molds all the time and us up the chunks...that stuff is too expensive. I am still a total newb but had some successes thanks to videos like yours.
Great little how-to beginners’ style! I really appreciated the tip on pouring the catalyst first. I haven’t worked with molding silicone yet and trying to pick up all the tips I can find before getting started. I like to bake so I’m familiar with the idea that little tips like the order of ingredients can really make a big difference in labor. Thank you!
So it really all comes down to brushing on a print coat in order to avoid bubbles. Good to know. That's exactly what I was preparing to do with my upcoming, really important, must-not-have-bubbles, project.
There's a trick for pouring from a wide-mouthed container into something much smaller: 1) Get a rod that is longer than the container is wide (I like something about 2-3 times as long). For that container, I'd be thinking about either a piece of wire coat-hanger or a chopstick. 2) Lay the rod across the top of the container with most of the excess on the side you will be pouring from. 3) Pour. When pouring, the surface tension of the liquid will tend to adhere the stream to the surface of the rod, so the liquid will follow the rod. This can take a bit of practice, as too much or too little flow can both cause problems. 4) When you have enough out, leave the end of the rod in/over the receptacle while tilting the wide-mouthed contain back to stop the flow. 5) Allow whatever is still on the rod to flow into the smaller container, then clean the stick. I've used this for pouring paint into 15ml/0.5 oz plastic squeeze bottles without really any problems; it should work fine for resin or rubber components as well.
I greatly appreciate your experience, your many many tips both little and large, and your presentation. You're like having a friendly guy next door who has pretty much all the know-how. Thanks!
I really loved this video, because I am just starting out and you used the things I have available to me. I actually purchased that exact kit yesterday before I saw your video. I don’t have all the tools and contraptions that you have in your workshop so this was a great video for me the beginner. Thanks so much!
I made myself a few mixing paddles that mix well without drawing bubbles into the mix. They are small brass sheet squares soldered onto a hacksaw slotted round copper rod. The paddle is small enough to always stay submerged in the mix while the round shaft is all that breaks the surface and it reduces the bubbles. I find a gentle scrap of the sides is all that is needed to ensure a full mix.
wow the trick with drowning the wasted chunks of silicone in the mold is fantastic! how have I not thought of that. Good thing I didn't throw away any of the failed molds. I have some failed 2-part molds where mold release didn't work and the 2 parts stuck together forever. I force rip them apart, and there are chunks from both parts.
These videos are a an absolute pleasure to watch... The pace, the tonality, the structure and logic show an amazing level of professionalism - not only regarding the craft but also regarding a didactic approach. Thank you for all the effort of making these outstanding videos!
The print molding technique recalls a conversation I had with the tech rep from the Smooth-on company. I was making ink stamps and asked the fellow: What does the rubber stick-to? He said it sticks to itself. Of course.
thank you for these awesome videos, after gaining confidence watching your videos, i made my first cut mould today of something i thought was too complicated for a one-piece pour mould.
Robert, I have been sort of busy with work stuff and sick on top, but I am meaning to email you a project just to share in the near future. But for now, I just want to say once again that your videos are absolute gold. No joke you are my favorite youtuber at this point I think. If you ever do a one day class or something down in LA or somewhere else in CA I would love to attend!
I’m so glad I found your channel and thank you for this video! This answered a lot of questions I had as a beginner wanting to dip my toes into resin molding and casting without investing in a lot of equipment just yet.
I used Magic Mold a few times and I found that making the mold box out of waxed cartons makes it a breeze. I clean out the waxed carton of Half & Half or Orange Juice and cut them up and glue them back together as per my needs and they work great. Once in awhile I may even use a little Vaseline to coat the carton for extra insurance. Coated Card Board never worked for me. I even used spray release on some. They always came out good. The Exacto Blade Knife is the way to go for cutting the mold apart. Utility knives are way to wide and bulky. I enjoy your videos and I’m learning a lot as well. Thank you. Richard
Oddly, tin-based silicone rubbers are condensation cure rubber, meaning that they actually pull moisture out of the air while curing. I have heard that extremely dry environments can inhibit the cure or at least slow it down. But then I have never heard anyone recommend adding water to the rubber to speed up the cure. But my blowing on the rubber certainly did not negatively affect the cure of this particular mold.
Great vid Robert! Loved seeing you do things with more 'basic' materials. I also super hate tubs like that with the wide opening, I get it everywhere :( Hope the family is well, all the best
I have a hot melt glue tip for you. Worked on hobby models and even the walls of an old apartment. A drop of denatured alcohol will wick in and help you much much easier remove hot glue. It's fantastic. Love watching the molds.
Thanks for this video! The blowing out the bubbles technique looks valuable and simple. This was full of really wise words/techniques for anyone who was listening. This is the benefit of years of your attention it strikes me. I am grateful you are sharing it so openly! I admire your professional level, and your personal opinion. Not complaining! I have so much to learn lol Thanks again!
Great video! I asked in your other video what you could do about bubbles if we don't have machinery, and you answered all my questions. Never would have thought about using a straw! Thank you!
Good video! Very informational on doing a small first time project! Even on some of the comments as well. Now I have to find the next video of pouring your duck. Cause I will have a question on different types of resin strength!
Great video, Robert. Really enjoyed it. Cure inhibition and bubbles have been my greatest enemies. A number of steps taken and 7-8 molds later and I've got it dialed without a proper vacuum chamber (I did actually build a homemade vacuum chamber with a shop vac and few other household items, but its not 100% percent effective. Would need stronger vacuum and stronger walls). Thanks for your help !
Hi Chris, the first vacuum chamber I ever built used a shop vac and it was a miserable failure! In this video I explain why shop vacs don’t work: ruclips.net/video/QU8JS5HZIYw/видео.html Platinum rubbers are much more sensitive to cure inhibition than tin rubbers are. Sulfur and metals such as copper and brass are notorious for causing cure inhibition. But you never know when some bad chemical reaction will rear its ugly head. That’s why you must always test your materials to see if they are compatible.
very entertaining video, it was fun to see a pro using the basic local hobby shop products I use as a hobbyist. The Amazing mold rubber is indeed very brittle, I tore my first molds because I wasn't using mold conditioner/mold release and the casts would tear chunks of the rubber out.
What kind of mold release do you use with Amazing Mold rubber? I bought their casting resin and I am about to begin the video about casting the duck sculpture. Wasn’t planning to use any kind of release agent. Do you think I’ll have problems?
@@RobertTolone I use Castin'craft Mold Release/Conditioner to help keep the molds in good shape, the first few casts come out fine but after about half a dozen I noticed the wear and tear start w/o any use of the mold release/conditioner
To pour from a wide mouth tub stick a piece of tape on the inside of the rim wider than the expected flow and when you finished puring pull the tape off.
Just got into this channel (40k models trying to reproduce), and I was just saying to a freind: "This guy makes it look fun and easy, I think I could do it. But I don't have a vacuum chamber..." 2 hours later, I see this video.
Wow really reallt smart way of doing things! As always yiur explanations are excellent! I learned so much and you are very resourceful. Please always stay healthy too. Keep it up!
@@RobertTolone I'm 36 and I remember watching him back when I was a kid. The guy was incredible!!!! I appreciate your videos. Thank you. Keep up the great work!!!
I have a question about pre-applying the rubber of the metal model. Does the freshly poured rubber always adhere to the brushed on rubber? If so, then could the mold be reused multiple times?
That’s great guide for everyone to run tests by applying the silicone rubber on each pieces it will contact with ! After all mold inhibition makes big waste 😹
Hi Robert , Thanks again. Its very pleasant to have your vids on while working. Right now as i watch your mold techniques and colorful comments ..hiih.. im trying to make some custom scifi looking lights for a head piece..could find what i wanted but had some latex rubber to make dip molds. ithas that nice brownbeige rubber ..and is pretty strong stuff... made a flat mold of corrugated material ( gonna fold over with LEDs in it to form corrugated tubing thats semi transparent with mesh sealed inside ..the layers uneven mostly from the latex layering..will give that faded..yellowish ..scifi..relic almost burnt out look.... but as you might be able to guess..its 20 sec application of a new layer ..and 20 min / hour dry time.. so your vids are running on my comp screen next to me... and its really nice. I guess its a man thing ,... seeing someone working ..busy...kind of makes you wanna do something too .. and really helps with the "..i dont really have to.."..that sneaks in after being stuck inside for almost a year now.... So yeah... My new happy place online...been learning more that i thought i would. Thats gonna come in real handy real soon i'd bet. Funny thing about knowing how to do something..you end up in situations where you will need it also..?!
Yes, it’s a good liner for mold cases. I wanted to demonstrate various methods of sealing a mold case in this video. But the Elmers didn’t work out very well.
Really great video! I would miss my setup too, if I had to leave it for an extended amount of time. It's interesting to see what you can do with you knowledge with lesser equipment though!
I was hoping that this demonstration would prove you don’t really need gear to successfully make molds. All it really did however was make me miss my tools!
I love your homage to Chef Justing Wilson ( Cajun humorist ) inspriing and wonderful chef to watch "back in the day". You are correct in this stuff is "shockingly expensive", obscene even. It truly is a barrier to entry to have a hobby. Silicon molds would be a good compliment to my 3d printing projects. Would ordinary candle wax or even bees-wax candles be benefitial to coat the molds?
@@RobertTolone beat me to it with that question. that would be really useful Robert thank you. Also I've had a look at the wax carving tool you use. Is there a cheaper starter tool?
When I mix small amounts I pre-measure using water and a pipette (dosing plunger for baby medicine). Then I mark on the side of the cup exactly 5ml or however much I need.
Even a tiny amount of water will cause urethane resin to foam. So I am very careful not to let water get anywhere near my molds. If you do get a mold wet be sure it is 100% dry. If the mold has a lot of detail it can be surprisingly difficult to dry it completely.
You said "always pour the harder first"... would you recommend the same concept with resin, or stick to the instructions which is usually hardener second??
I generally recommend following the manufacturers instructions. When mixing silicone I always put the hardener in first because it’s much easier to mix. You don’t have any uncured rubber clinging to the sides and bottom of the mixing vessel. With the rubber I use it doesn’t matter which goes in first.
I have made a mold with this same rubber, I got some bubbles in my mold and I was wondering if I can fix the mold itself by painting over with fresh rubber? The mold I want it for candle making. Thank you!
Wonderful video...quite humorous to see you at a tiny desk using rudimentary tools like any of us other hobbyists and crafters. Thanks for the videos they are just great. Also agree you should link the waxes you use and where to buy them either from Amazon or other retailers because it's hard to decide when you don't know what you looking for
I am a newbe to molding and no expert😅☺️ Intressting.🤔 You pump in air, and I thought people use vaccum chambers for pulling out air to make the bubbles disapear. Do you might know what the difference between an pressure pot VS vaccum chamber? I have recently bought an aircompressor with 1 HP for investing in an airbrush for paint jobs. This may be a stupid question, but is'nt harmful for the aircompressor to blow in air by resistance, so the machine must work harder push itself to the limit what it was made for? Will the compressor wear out faster? Your aircompressor looks big and powerfull so it might handle it well. 😁👍🙏 Great video!👏
Could acrylic be a silicone curing inhibitor? I made a mold with acrylic walls and even after 24 hours they are not completely cured, the same rubber in an MDF mold is fully cured.
Thanks for making these amazing videos, a lot to learn as a newbie. Questio: wouldn't it be easier to use the packing tape to seal all the cardboard instead of glue. That shouldn't stick at all
Yes, you can make a case entirely out of cardboard and packing tape. Just be sure to seal every crack and see him carefully. It’s astonishing how silicone can escape through the tinyest of cracks!
Haven't read the comments, where it might be answered, but, what about using the pure silicone calk and detergent method? would love to see you working with that.
I have seen that method used on RUclips but I’ve never tried it. The truth is, I want my mold making and casting to be as reliable and efficient as possible. The goal is to get perfect castings every time. I never reach my goal but I try to get there. So I don’t experiment with homemade methods. But there’s no reason why you shouldn’t. Gives it a go let us know how it works for you!
This might seem odd, but is there anyway to store the finish fluit resin (A+B mixed together) ? My thought a little connected to this project and your other project "From A Two-Piece Silicone Mold!" Fx. Making a cube and avoic bubbles in the surface, then pouring a layer on one side of the cube, and then keep on doing a side at the time, until one was sure the layers where thick enough and bubble free. then before ending, filling most of the cube up with resin, and then let it get stiff, ending up with the top layer and doing it the same way as the other sides. Does it make any sense? :)
It is possible to pour objects in stages. In other words pour part of it, let the resin gel or cure then pour other sections. The only time I do that is when I am reasonably certain a specific area of a casting will catch really bad bubbles and will need to be pre-filled before I pour the main body of the casting.
Gave this a quick watch yesterday night, and will probably re-watch tonight to try and make decent/good candy molds for an upcoming thing. While I think I understand everything else, was there a reason you poured the silicone in several smaller batches/layers(not counting the paint on and the feet part) or was that mainly due to the various cardboard angles, chunkies, and other elements that helped save on the silicone?
You have probably heard this suggestion before but just in case... With an inexpensive 3D printer and some filament you could produce a mould housing or shell replacing the cardboard box.... It could be designed to be 2 or 3 mm larger than the final mould and plastic being fairly strong, would add strength to the mould during the casting process... Mike
At 7:40, could you use a little butane torch /jet lighter to pop bubbles like other two part compounds? Id be interested to hear if the direct heat and possible residues cause issues, or make a positive effect. : )
That technique is excellent for epoxy resins which cure much more slowly. but it doesn’t work for urethane resins partly because heat greatly speeds the cure of urethanes.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos:
www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
YES!!!!!! THIS is the detailed information I have been waiting for!!!! Thank you so much for doing this for us, Robert!!! If you had a powerful enough telescope and could train it on me, you would be watching me do a little jig of spastic-happiness... dancing around my computer, with a turtle in one hand, and a donut in my other hand... while singing praises in your name!!!
I wish we could post pictures of our attempts.
Anneka Brimhall You can send pics to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com. If I can get my act together at some point I will put together a Facebook group or discord server, something like that.
Thank you for the info i will try this and if it works i will send u pic and the results keep up the good work
A million points for packing tape and cardboard. I've used corrugated cardboard covered with packing tape, held together with hot glue, for years to make mold forms. I started using packing tape around 2013. Before that I used glossy cardboard because platinum cure silicone wouldn't stick to it. At some point I couldn't find glossy finished cardboard to make a form and the thought hit me that I could use packing tape. I've extolled the cheapness and versatility of packing tape, cardboard and hot glue to many people doing silicone molds and most of them continue to use things like LEGO, or L boards and clamps (I made a few sets of L boards before I started using cardboard and pressure casting the molds.) or other items that are cumbersome and give poor results. Apparently they think it just can be that simple and easy.
I've been in this as a business since the late 1990's. Followed a lot of advice early on that gave poor results but over time I came up with techniques that are easy, low cost, and make good molds and castings. I mostly make reproduction parts for classic cars, including pieces that have gone onto cars shown at Hershey and other concours d'elegance shows. It all started with a need for a pair of tail light lenses for a 1953 Hudson Super Wasp... I had one good but faded lens, made a latex mold supported with fiberglass and cast new lenses with clear polyester casting resin and a ton of transparent red dye. The results were terrible but with a lot of sanding and polishing they worked. I'd grown up in a ceramics business where I learned about mold making concepts, which applied to fiberglass (I made some parts for a Mustang, still have the molds, people want the parts but don't want to pay enough to cover the materials cost) and also to silicone. Thankfully with silicone undercuts and other things not possible with plaster or fiberglass can be done.
As someone with minimal experience making molds it's actually very helpful to see you without your tools. Just to see how you work and think.
Thank Bill! Glad you found the video useful.
I'm really glad you addressed this topic. I'm new to casting things and I don't have a lot of tools yet
A lot of us are using simple materials, and just what is on hand.
It’s amazing to me that you think you are cranky or whiny at all, it’s so wholesome seeing you work that if it weren’t for the overlay I wouldn’t even be able to tell you were annoyed in the slightest! Honestly those containers would annoy me too if i was used to working with something better ;)
You are the McGuyver of Silicone and Resin!!
Great to see a comparison of diy techniques from a professional!
It was a fun challenge but it sure made me miss my tools!
I cut up my failed molds all the time and us up the chunks...that stuff is too expensive. I am still a total newb but had some successes thanks to videos like yours.
Sir, you are so wholesome. Remind me of my father in law. All the success in your channel, you got a fan here.
Great little how-to beginners’ style! I really appreciated the tip on pouring the catalyst first. I haven’t worked with molding silicone yet and trying to pick up all the tips I can find before getting started. I like to bake so I’m familiar with the idea that little tips like the order of ingredients can really make a big difference in labor. Thank you!
So it really all comes down to brushing on a print coat in order to avoid bubbles. Good to know. That's exactly what I was preparing to do with my upcoming, really important, must-not-have-bubbles, project.
There's a trick for pouring from a wide-mouthed container into something much smaller:
1) Get a rod that is longer than the container is wide (I like something about 2-3 times as long). For that container, I'd be thinking about either a piece of wire coat-hanger or a chopstick.
2) Lay the rod across the top of the container with most of the excess on the side you will be pouring from.
3) Pour. When pouring, the surface tension of the liquid will tend to adhere the stream to the surface of the rod, so the liquid will follow the rod. This can take a bit of practice, as too much or too little flow can both cause problems.
4) When you have enough out, leave the end of the rod in/over the receptacle while tilting the wide-mouthed contain back to stop the flow.
5) Allow whatever is still on the rod to flow into the smaller container, then clean the stick.
I've used this for pouring paint into 15ml/0.5 oz plastic squeeze bottles without really any problems; it should work fine for resin or rubber components as well.
I greatly appreciate your experience, your many many tips both little and large, and your presentation. You're like having a friendly guy next door who has pretty much all the know-how. Thanks!
I really loved this video, because I am just starting out and you used the things I have available to me. I actually purchased that exact kit yesterday before I saw your video. I don’t have all the tools and contraptions that you have in your workshop so this was a great video for me the beginner. Thanks so much!
I made myself a few mixing paddles that mix well without drawing bubbles into the mix.
They are small brass sheet squares soldered onto a hacksaw slotted round copper rod.
The paddle is small enough to always stay submerged in the mix while the round shaft is all that breaks the surface and it reduces the bubbles. I find a gentle scrap of the sides is all that is needed to ensure a full mix.
Im LOVE HOW excited you are in what you do
I am an old hack at this and you are teaching me tons. 😊 thanks
wow the trick with drowning the wasted chunks of silicone in the mold is fantastic! how have I not thought of that. Good thing I didn't throw away any of the failed molds. I have some failed 2-part molds where mold release didn't work and the 2 parts stuck together forever. I force rip them apart, and there are chunks from both parts.
These videos are a an absolute pleasure to watch... The pace, the tonality, the structure and logic show an amazing level of professionalism - not only regarding the craft but also regarding a didactic approach. Thank you for all the effort of making these outstanding videos!
Thanks for your nice comment F.D. !
This guy is now my favorite person!
The print molding technique recalls a conversation I had with the tech rep from the Smooth-on company. I was making ink stamps and asked the fellow: What does the rubber stick-to? He said it sticks to itself. Of course.
thank you for these awesome videos, after gaining confidence watching your videos, i made my first cut mould today of something i thought was too complicated for a one-piece pour mould.
Love to see the way you work and your patience, your videos are both relaxing and informative
Thanks for watching Simone!
your sense of humor is superb sir
Thanks Mario!
what a great idea for a video. good to see an expert dealing with craft "kits"
Thanks Ross.
Grumpy old man Robert. I feel ya
Robert, I have been sort of busy with work stuff and sick on top, but I am meaning to email you a project just to share in the near future. But for now, I just want to say once again that your videos are absolute gold. No joke you are my favorite youtuber at this point I think. If you ever do a one day class or something down in LA or somewhere else in CA I would love to attend!
Thanks Kevin! I look forward to seeing your project.
You are so good at what you do, lots of tips. I could watch your videos all day! God bless you, from Texas
Thank you Lisa. I’m glad you enjoy the videos.
I use blue painters tape to line my cardboard. Easy to get on and releases great for the materials I have used.
I’m so glad I found your channel and thank you for this video! This answered a lot of questions I had as a beginner wanting to dip my toes into resin molding and casting without investing in a lot of equipment just yet.
I used Magic Mold a few times and I found that making the mold box out of waxed cartons makes it a breeze. I clean out the waxed carton of Half & Half or Orange Juice and cut them up and glue them back together as per my needs and they work great. Once in awhile I may even use a little Vaseline to coat the carton for extra insurance. Coated Card Board never worked for me. I even used spray release on some. They always came out good. The Exacto Blade Knife is the way to go for cutting the mold apart. Utility knives are way to wide and bulky. I enjoy your videos and I’m learning a lot as well. Thank you.
Richard
Great tip. Thanks Richard!
Very useful video. Thank you
Im learning so much! Thank you. I wondered why you didn't coat the cardboard with the white glue?? Isn't that why we tested it?
why is this the first time I'm hearing about the blowing technique?! All across the internet and this is the first for me. Brilliant and affordable!
I never heard it either! Probably never heard of it because it is so time consuming, and nobody wants to do it. 😂
Robert, how careful should you be about moisture from your breath affecting the silicone? I imagine droplets of spit could cause problems.
Oddly, tin-based silicone rubbers are condensation cure rubber, meaning that they actually pull moisture out of the air while curing. I have heard that extremely dry environments can inhibit the cure or at least slow it down. But then I have never heard anyone recommend adding water to the rubber to speed up the cure. But my blowing on the rubber certainly did not negatively affect the cure of this particular mold.
People do it all the time but generally use an airbrush .
Thanks Robert
Great vid Robert! Loved seeing you do things with more 'basic' materials. I also super hate tubs like that with the wide opening, I get it everywhere :( Hope the family is well, all the best
Thanks Olivia. The family is going to be fine and I expect that things will be back to normal soon!
Tin cure is rather forgiving, but the smell is quite strong. Cant wait to see the cast
Thanks for watching. I’m looking forward to the casting as well.
I have a hot melt glue tip for you. Worked on hobby models and even the walls of an old apartment. A drop of denatured alcohol will wick in and help you much much easier remove hot glue. It's fantastic. Love watching the molds.
Thanks for the tip! I will give it a try.
Always a pleasure watching these.
Thanks for this video! The blowing out the bubbles technique looks valuable and simple. This was full of really wise words/techniques for anyone who was listening. This is the benefit of years of your attention it strikes me. I am grateful you are sharing it so openly!
I admire your professional level, and your personal opinion. Not complaining! I have so much to learn lol Thanks again!
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
5:55 "We got the duck!" haha Thanks for this video, Robert!
Besides looking like Americas Mayor. Robert taught me about chunkies. Thanks Mayor Rob
Great video! I asked in your other video what you could do about bubbles if we don't have machinery, and you answered all my questions. Never would have thought about using a straw! Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful!
Great video!!!
Brilliant, thank you!
Good video! Very informational on doing a small first time project! Even on some of the comments as well. Now I have to find the next video of pouring your duck. Cause I will have a question on different types of resin strength!
Love you for this tutorial video!!!!
Great video, Robert. Really enjoyed it. Cure inhibition and bubbles have been my greatest enemies. A number of steps taken and 7-8 molds later and I've got it dialed without a proper vacuum chamber (I did actually build a homemade vacuum chamber with a shop vac and few other household items, but its not 100% percent effective. Would need stronger vacuum and stronger walls). Thanks for your help !
Hi Chris, the first vacuum chamber I ever built used a shop vac and it was a miserable failure! In this video I explain why shop vacs don’t work: ruclips.net/video/QU8JS5HZIYw/видео.html
Platinum rubbers are much more sensitive to cure inhibition than tin rubbers are. Sulfur and metals such as copper and brass are notorious for causing cure inhibition. But you never know when some bad chemical reaction will rear its ugly head. That’s why you must always test your materials to see if they are compatible.
very entertaining video, it was fun to see a pro using the basic local hobby shop products I use as a hobbyist. The Amazing mold rubber is indeed very brittle, I tore my first molds because I wasn't using mold conditioner/mold release and the casts would tear chunks of the rubber out.
What kind of mold release do you use with Amazing Mold rubber? I bought their casting resin and I am about to begin the video about casting the duck sculpture. Wasn’t planning to use any kind of release agent. Do you think I’ll have problems?
@@RobertTolone I use Castin'craft Mold Release/Conditioner to help keep the molds in good shape, the first few casts come out fine but after about half a dozen I noticed the wear and tear start w/o any use of the mold release/conditioner
Good to know, thanks!
love your videos!
Can't wait for next week. Learning so much as usual.
Thanks Bert!
Great video. Very helpful tips for a new bee. Thank you
Glad it was helpful Andrew!
Thanks for great at the kitchen table video, and your knowledge with mold making🙏🏼
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Love your videos! I appreciate you sharing your vast knowledge!!
Love your channel, thanks for making these!
To pour from a wide mouth tub stick a piece of tape on the inside of the rim wider than the expected flow and when you finished puring pull the tape off.
Just got into this channel (40k models trying to reproduce), and I was just saying to a freind: "This guy makes it look fun and easy, I think I could do it. But I don't have a vacuum chamber..." 2 hours later, I see this video.
Wow really reallt smart way of doing things! As always yiur explanations are excellent! I learned so much and you are very resourceful. Please always stay healthy too. Keep it up!
such a great great video, very informative, thanks a lot!!
Great video. Very informative! At 17:58 I like the Justin Wilson homage...."I garontee"
Haha, you’re the first one to comment on that! I loved that guy! I’ve been saying I garontee since I was in high school.
@@RobertTolone I'm 36 and I remember watching him back when I was a kid. The guy was incredible!!!! I appreciate your videos. Thank you. Keep up the great work!!!
I have a question about pre-applying the rubber of the metal model. Does the freshly poured rubber always adhere to the brushed on rubber? If so, then could the mold be reused multiple times?
That’s great guide for everyone to run tests by applying the silicone rubber on each pieces it will contact with ! After all mold inhibition makes big waste 😹
Your fun thanks for the video and the massive downloads of information bless your rubbery little heart lol❤❤❤❤❤
I love the resourcefulness!
Thanks Lauren!
thank you for the tips
Hi Robert , Thanks again. Its very pleasant to have your vids on while working. Right now as i watch your mold techniques and colorful comments ..hiih.. im trying to make some custom scifi looking lights for a head piece..could find what i wanted but had some latex rubber to make dip molds. ithas that nice brownbeige rubber ..and is pretty strong stuff... made a flat mold of corrugated material ( gonna fold over with LEDs in it to form corrugated tubing thats semi transparent with mesh sealed inside ..the layers uneven mostly from the latex layering..will give that faded..yellowish ..scifi..relic almost burnt out look.... but as you might be able to guess..its 20 sec application of a new layer ..and 20 min / hour dry time.. so your vids are running on my comp screen next to me...
and its really nice. I guess its a man thing ,... seeing someone working ..busy...kind of makes you wanna do something too .. and really helps with the "..i dont really have to.."..that sneaks in after being stuck inside for almost a year now....
So yeah... My new happy place online...been learning more that i thought i would. Thats gonna come in real handy real soon i'd bet.
Funny thing about knowing how to do something..you end up in situations where you will need it also..?!
Glad you find my videos useful Alexander. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so very much for this video. I have more confidence and can use home found tools !
Glad you found it helpful Dee!
Great stuff, easy to listen to and watch.
I loved your videos! Great techniques, and spontaneous comments. You've reached brazilian viewers, congrats!
Doing a beginners craft mold-making kit is genius! Also wouldn’t the packing tape be better as interior connection?
Yes, it’s a good liner for mold cases. I wanted to demonstrate various methods of sealing a mold case in this video. But the Elmers didn’t work out very well.
You need a real crafters hot glue gun not one for children. My heavy duty one will leave burns but works great.
Anneka Brimhall I have one in my shop, just not with me here!
I thought it was unusual you didn’t have one. My smooth-on silicone just got here. I am really excited.
I have a old watch pressure tester, will that do the job and atleast help a little with getting the gas out?
"I'm already losing hair like theirs no tomorrow " 😅 god that made my day!
Using Rubbing Alcohol will soften up the hot melt glue and it comes right off. Awesome use of scraps in the mold.
I'm curious: can you use the bubble-popping technique with an air compressor tool (instead of the straw) when pouring bigger molds?
Love this video! brushing the model with the rubber is a great idea! thanks
Sir, which will be the correct Part 2? Thank you
Really great video! I would miss my setup too, if I had to leave it for an extended amount of time. It's interesting to see what you can do with you knowledge with lesser equipment though!
I was hoping that this demonstration would prove you don’t really need gear to successfully make molds. All it really did however was make me miss my tools!
I love your homage to Chef Justing Wilson ( Cajun humorist ) inspriing and wonderful chef to watch "back in the day". You are correct in this stuff is "shockingly expensive", obscene even. It truly is a barrier to entry to have a hobby. Silicon molds would be a good compliment to my 3d printing projects.
Would ordinary candle wax or even bees-wax candles be benefitial to coat the molds?
Yes, I would normally coat porous surfaces like cardboard and wood with melted beeswax. And I would have assembled the mold case with sticky wax.
What waxes/brands do you recommend? I don't know where to start and assume not all waxes are the same? Another great video, thank you!
I’m working on a material and supplier list and will post it on my community page. I’ll announce it as soon as it’s up.
@@RobertTolone beat me to it with that question. that would be really useful Robert thank you. Also I've had a look at the wax carving tool you use. Is there a cheaper starter tool?
@@RobertTolone Awesome, thank you sir.
great video thanks for the mold making tips !
Lol this is how all my molds go! Even my bigger pieces!
I am really need to start testing!
When I mix small amounts I pre-measure using water and a pipette (dosing plunger for baby medicine). Then I mark on the side of the cup exactly 5ml or however much I need.
A very informative video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching Toiletpaper! I appreciate the nice comment.
Hi Robert, would have a solution to the cardboard sticking have been to sit the mold in some warm water, weighing it down to stay submerged? Thanks
Even a tiny amount of water will cause urethane resin to foam. So I am very careful not to let water get anywhere near my molds. If you do get a mold wet be sure it is 100% dry. If the mold has a lot of detail it can be surprisingly difficult to dry it completely.
You said "always pour the harder first"... would you recommend the same concept with resin, or stick to the instructions which is usually hardener second??
I generally recommend following the manufacturers instructions. When mixing silicone I always put the hardener in first because it’s much easier to mix. You don’t have any uncured rubber clinging to the sides and bottom of the mixing vessel. With the rubber I use it doesn’t matter which goes in first.
Any place less expensive to buy a larger amount for a bigger project casting ? Thank you
I buy my materials at Silpak.com. Usually I buy resin and rubber in 5-gallon buckets.
Just Curious: couldn't you pour the silicone into a Zip Lock bag, push the air out the end and seal, then squish the two chemicals together to mix?
I don’t know, I’ve never tried it. Try it out (in a small batch) and see if it works for you.
I have made a mold with this same rubber, I got some bubbles in my mold and I was wondering if I can fix the mold itself by painting over with fresh rubber? The mold I want it for candle making. Thank you!
You’ll probably still see the repair in the castings. Your project is currently in production now, btw.
Wonderful video...quite humorous to see you at a tiny desk using rudimentary tools like any of us other hobbyists and crafters. Thanks for the videos they are just great. Also agree you should link the waxes you use and where to buy them either from Amazon or other retailers because it's hard to decide when you don't know what you looking for
I’m working on a material and supplier list and will post it on my community page. I’ll announce it as soon as it’s up.
I am a newbe to molding and no expert😅☺️ Intressting.🤔 You pump in air, and I thought people use vaccum chambers for pulling out air to make the bubbles disapear. Do you might know what the difference between an pressure pot VS vaccum chamber? I have recently bought an aircompressor with 1 HP for investing in an airbrush for paint jobs. This may be a stupid question, but is'nt harmful for the aircompressor to blow in air by resistance, so the machine must work harder push itself to the limit what it was made for? Will the compressor wear out faster? Your aircompressor looks big and powerfull so it might handle it well. 😁👍🙏 Great video!👏
Could acrylic be a silicone curing inhibitor? I made a mold with acrylic walls and even after 24 hours they are not completely cured, the same rubber in an MDF mold is fully cured.
Thanks for making these amazing videos, a lot to learn as a newbie. Questio: wouldn't it be easier to use the packing tape to seal all the cardboard instead of glue. That shouldn't stick at all
Yes, you can make a case entirely out of cardboard and packing tape. Just be sure to seal every crack and see him carefully. It’s astonishing how silicone can escape through the tinyest of cracks!
Haven't read the comments, where it might be answered, but, what about using the pure silicone calk and detergent method? would love to see you working with that.
I have seen that method used on RUclips but I’ve never tried it. The truth is, I want my mold making and casting to be as reliable and efficient as possible. The goal is to get perfect castings every time. I never reach my goal but I try to get there. So I don’t experiment with homemade methods. But there’s no reason why you shouldn’t. Gives it a go let us know how it works for you!
This might seem odd, but is there anyway to store the finish fluit resin (A+B mixed together) ?
My thought a little connected to this project and your other project "From A Two-Piece Silicone Mold!"
Fx. Making a cube and avoic bubbles in the surface, then pouring a layer on one side of the cube, and then keep on doing a side at the time, until one was sure the layers where thick enough and bubble free. then before ending, filling most of the cube up with resin, and then let it get stiff, ending up with the top layer and doing it the same way as the other sides.
Does it make any sense? :)
It is possible to pour objects in stages. In other words pour part of it, let the resin gel or cure then pour other sections. The only time I do that is when I am reasonably certain a specific area of a casting will catch really bad bubbles and will need to be pre-filled before I pour the main body of the casting.
Gave this a quick watch yesterday night, and will probably re-watch tonight to try and make decent/good candy molds for an upcoming thing. While I think I understand everything else, was there a reason you poured the silicone in several smaller batches/layers(not counting the paint on and the feet part) or was that mainly due to the various cardboard angles, chunkies, and other elements that helped save on the silicone?
You have probably heard this suggestion before but just in case...
With an inexpensive 3D printer and some filament you could produce a mould housing or shell replacing the cardboard box....
It could be designed to be 2 or 3 mm larger than the final mould and plastic being fairly strong, would add strength to the mould during the casting process...
Mike
One of these days I’ll do that in a video. It’s a great idea.
At 7:40, could you use a little butane torch /jet lighter to pop bubbles like other two part compounds?
Id be interested to hear if the direct heat and possible residues cause issues, or make a positive effect.
: )
That technique is excellent for epoxy resins which cure much more slowly. but it doesn’t work for urethane resins partly because heat greatly speeds the cure of urethanes.
Hey I could use some help I'm mold and multiple a sluice box. So I have wider and or longer sluice box how would start
How big are you planning to make them?
Hello there. How would I go about putting in for a custom order or paying you for your time to help me with a project?
This was highly entertaining and informative. New sub!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for subbing!