It's almost accurate, the true aim of a T8 heatshield is to reduce the heat cycles the ECU receives, without a heat shield it can easily manage to get up to 20 thermal cycles if you drive long times in stop/go traffic. The heat shield's purpose it to reduce the amount of cycles it receive back to 1. As you cannot prevent a heat cycle unless you either live in the artic regions or unless you drive your Saab no longer than 5 minutes. The ECU will still heat up even after installing a heat shield, but it will no longer receive thermal cycles while driving. the cycle it now receives is when it stands still for longer than 30 minutes of time after being driven for atleast 15+ minutes. The reason why it will always receive 1 thermal cycle is due to the radiant heat inside the engine bay and eventually that radiant heat will heat up the ECU to a crispy 60+ degrees celsius, but granted it takes alot longer than without a heat shield as the direct heat from the engine has less effect due to the shield. Also.. the B2C price for the aluminum heat shield is 60 euro, but the retailers up this price.
I would like to see another option to move it. I come from the telco world, and sometimes we have to move a system. I would like to see an amp plug on a cable( I have seen this brand/style on Saabs and in the telco world) , female end to plug to each ECU A and B connectors, and extension cable with tail with correct end to remount it. You could even leave your backup ECU in place.
The paint could work actually, however, the best is to put something in between the ECU and manifold in order to contain the uprising heat. Also keep in mind that washers alone will not mechanically decouple the ECU, which means that vibrations can cause damage.
@@hirschmannkoxha ah I see. But isn't it better to allow air underneath especially with fan modifications? Then I'm thinking rubber washers could be used
Thanks for this amazing video, i finally understand the entire concept and need for these spacers, before i just had this basic understanding "heat + ecu = bad" Now im definitely buying your ptfe kit. I just have one question out of curiosity, how thick is that ptfe cut out?
@@hirschmannkoxha Thank you, i was looking at doing it all myself but taking this to account it will be more worth it if i just order from you which is what i will be doing tonight, cheers.
As mentioned in the video you will need some bearings, screws, an additional ground strap and also something to elevate the brace for the engine cover.
It's almost accurate, the true aim of a T8 heatshield is to reduce the heat cycles the ECU receives, without a heat shield it can easily manage to get up to 20 thermal cycles if you drive long times in stop/go traffic. The heat shield's purpose it to reduce the amount of cycles it receive back to 1. As you cannot prevent a heat cycle unless you either live in the artic regions or unless you drive your Saab no longer than 5 minutes. The ECU will still heat up even after installing a heat shield, but it will no longer receive thermal cycles while driving. the cycle it now receives is when it stands still for longer than 30 minutes of time after being driven for atleast 15+ minutes. The reason why it will always receive 1 thermal cycle is due to the radiant heat inside the engine bay and eventually that radiant heat will heat up the ECU to a crispy 60+ degrees celsius, but granted it takes alot longer than without a heat shield as the direct heat from the engine has less effect due to the shield. Also.. the B2C price for the aluminum heat shield is 60 euro, but the retailers up this price.
Thank you for being so honest and spreading your knowledge, i've already created my own bakelite spacer unit but this video is great
Thank you for the scientific look at the base material options, very informative.
I would like to see another option to move it. I come from the telco world, and sometimes we have to move a system. I would like to see an amp plug on a cable( I have seen this brand/style on Saabs and in the telco world) , female end to plug to each ECU A and B connectors, and extension cable with tail with correct end to remount it. You could even leave your backup ECU in place.
Very convincing, just placed my order!
What if just using washers to raise the ecu up to create a space of air under it then cover the ecu in heat shielding paint?
The paint could work actually, however, the best is to put something in between the ECU and manifold in order to contain the uprising heat. Also keep in mind that washers alone will not mechanically decouple the ECU, which means that vibrations can cause damage.
@@hirschmannkoxha ah I see. But isn't it better to allow air underneath especially with fan modifications? Then I'm thinking rubber washers could be used
Thanks for this amazing video, i finally understand the entire concept and need for these spacers, before i just had this basic understanding "heat + ecu = bad" Now im definitely buying your ptfe kit.
I just have one question out of curiosity, how thick is that ptfe cut out?
Thank you, it is at least 5mm. Sometimes 5.5 - depends a bit on the charge of PTFE we receive.
@@hirschmannkoxha Thank you, i was looking at doing it all myself but taking this to account it will be more worth it if i just order from you which is what i will be doing tonight, cheers.
Where to buy the PTFE kit?
hirschmann-koxha.de/en/Trionic-8-heat-shield/SW10033
Is this meant to be used in conjunction with a spacer kit? Or does this actually make a space?
As mentioned in the video you will need some bearings, screws, an additional ground strap and also something to elevate the brace for the engine cover.