Found this channel yesterday and immediately subscribed. No patronizing comments on how you are doing everything wrong. No self gratification by the presenter, Just really good content and advice from an obvious expert....Great job
Thank you! Not talked about enough. Took me a long time to gain the confidence to do that. I always thought that if I kept the clutch at its outer reaches, I would stall. Finally learned not to depress the clutch too far. Riding with more confidence, smoothness, and efficiency.
Even if the lever is pulled in all the way, I find it easy to put the clutch into the friction zone quickly. Say for instance that it takes 4 pounds of force to hold the lever. Now "pull" with only 2 pounds of force, and the lever moves to the friction zone almost instantly.
This is one of those custom adjustments I make to improve smooth handling of the bike. Along with converting to GP shift, I prefer to adjust the clutch cable slack so that the clutch engagement is much closer and sooner to the grip. You want the clutch to completely disengage but you don't want all that slack.
Adjusting so the grip point is as far away as possible from the handle results in having to pullclutch less when shifting, thus the possibility for faster shifting. Although on the road it will not be (very) noticeable, but if you intend to do track riding, it is better to adjust it that way, as you will develop correct muscle memory.
I’m not so sure that’s a great idea with the fact that cable’s will stretch over time. If you do that brand new and get it too close to the grip there may come a point where the cable stretches and you can’t fully disengage the clutch…
@@kogasoldier9379 That's really not an issue. Like anything that has a break-in period keeping it properly lubed and adjusted keeps the cable or chain or anything else from prematurely stretching. Not lubing your cable is how you wear them out faster. Much like your chain.
@@timdavis6088 while that’s true, they absolutely do stretch regardless of the maintenance and you will reach a point that you can’t pull it in far enough to disengage the clutch entirely if you leave it there. That said if you keep up on the maintenance and adjustments it shouldn’t become a big problem. Just know that regardless of the maintenance you do, it will stretch and you will have to readjust at some point.
@@kogasoldier9379 Well, I ride a Honda 600RR. After 30K+ miles and 20+ years I've adjusted it all of twice. Not once has it failed to engage the clutch or disengage. Maybe it's the springs on your clutch plate that are getting weak and not your cable. Maybe it's more of a specific manufacturers problem? Whatever it is your seeing I don't see this in the 600RR community.
I think at one point, we just adjust ourselves to do it automatically? I never thought about it consciously before, but it seems like I never pull the clutch all in except when starting from 0 or downshifting multiple gears at once (_coming to a stop_) 😛
I love your channel, you are an excellent teacher. I ride a 125cc scooter and I'm now training to get a motorcycle licence. I watch lots of your videos, great informative stuff. Thank you!!
My first bike was a 175cc BSA Bantam with cork glued on to the wet clutch plates. Most of my bikes had wet clutches. I never damaged a wet clutch on any bike I've ever owned, rode or raced. Only had two bikes with dry clutches, like a manual gearbox automobile. And so far, they're still in good shape.
I've been riding for about a year and I noticed when I started to transition to only 2 fingers on the clutch that I really never needed to pull it in nearly as far as I had been the whole time.
I only ever use two fingers on the clutch; pointer and tall man. Ring man and pinkie are still there on the grip, opposing my thumb to actually maintain hold the bars.* I adjust the clutch so that when the lever is pulled in to just touch ring man, the clutch disengages. Really easy to use ring man as a feeler gauge, both in and out. No practice required. I can always fine tune a little for glove thickness, etc by moving my hand just a little further in of out on the grip. It is really that easy. Grab the clutch with 2 fingers. Pull back until lever touches fingers still on grip. Release the preset 3-7mm [whatever is good for you] to find the friction zone. * A really important safety idea I learned in aviation, called redundancy. Works well on unexpected bumps and potholes that throttle right hand might not have been anticipating.
I like to adjust my clutch so it starts to engage just off the grip. This also helps with having better control of the clutch since I don't have to let it out so far.
Ive ridden Motorcycles for 51 years and still putting in the miles. Owned many makes. Never changed a clutch. No need to ride the clutch. If you know your bike, muscle memory will find the sweet spot within a fraction of a second. So fast it makes no difference. Pull it all the way in.
Thanks for these videos. I passed my CBT and I'm still making clutch mistakes, so having videos like this to reference from experienced riders, is really handy.
That's good I'm going for mine soon. How many times did you stall asking because my bike has a loose gear lever I'm going to fix. Rode 400 miles 15 miles in a car park so 350 miles of live traffic. These videos help.
This reminds me trigger control on firearm. There is also a point called "The wall" which basically is the equivalent of a biting point. In order to shoot more accurately and more efficiently you gotta learn to use that point, where you prepare the trigger by not squeezing it fully, but enough you feel a tension. And then smoothly apply a more pressure. It's amazing how two almost seperate things have this detail in common.
I've learned this in a terrifying way, when I first learned how to drive i always pull the lever all the way to the handle bar then there was a time where I'm going to a long smooth turn and I need to upshift, i pull the clutch all the way and engage in another gear, when I release it the bike has a slight jump while turning. It was a terrifying experience, i thought I was gonna crash good thing I didn't panic. A few meters after that my heart started beating like crazy, I pulled over and relaxed for a bit. After that I always practice a smoother gear change by practicing the clutch control and throttle control ( for rev matching ), now i can shift a gear in a smoother manner unconsciously.
It's a good idea to just not shift while leaned over anyway, be in the right gear BEFORE the corner. If you do then you really need to make sure you shift properly. If you dump the clutch too early or late you're going to have a bad day. Correct rev matching is extra important on a bike.
isnt it the same with a car tho when you dont pull it in all the way it wears the clutch plates out faster? cus my car can shift at half clutch but it does wear it out way faster
Great explanation! Thanks I’m going to try this. I’ve been pulling the clutch in all the way when going through the gears, then suffer a bit of engine braking before the bike revs pick up and take off in gear. First day of bike ownership for me today. Went for a short ride and needed this help, Thank you, Cheers 🍻
I think this is more about handling the friction zone, where one acid test is a graceful up-hill start - esp with right foot down and front brake (one should manage all alternatives). All-in or not at changing gear for us speed grassroots wouldn't be a divider at all if you ask me.
Hi!, Moto Control, currently i/active from the 3rd-world last 15yrs, but englnd b4that,.. quite new m/bke rider but car from age17,.. what about the clutch free-play situation, can u keep the c/levr closer to the handle against the manufacturer's guidelines, what difference does that make exactly?... clutch wear?... what else?... luv yor channel, luv yor style of coaching...bratha, bol.lol.
Very good consideration. Just enough to disengage! Probably half way down on my bikes. That's actually how I've been doing it without thinking about it. Thank you
If you're not abusing the clutch and purposely riding it and over-revving, the wear and tear from easy and normal riding should make it last for years and years.
PS: thank you your channel is really awesome, your content is genuine and very relevant, It’s a pleasure to watch. One comment: personally I’m not fan of your titles, they sometime sound like click bait videos. Which is a shame since the content is really good. Just saying. Thanks again !
Thanks! Titles ARE clickbait, once I started to make them this way I suddenly got x10 views. I'm sorry, but it's sort of necessary evil on youtube if you want your videos to be seen.🙃
Awesome. New rider. I think this has been mybossue.. classes told me. Pull fully in to full out on my brand new bike. But it keeps stalling on my from a stop. So. I'm trying this in morning
Good Day! Wow! I didn't know there was an easier way of using the clutch hahah, I've known manual transmissions way before I start learning a motorcycle (8 years ago) since I initially started on a manual transmission car. I would like to ask if the same principle applies to manual cars as well? Where I can just step on the clutch until there's no moving anymore and then proceed with shifting gears?
It's like a bike thing, cause in some bikes if you don't pull the clutch all the way in the gearbox becomes very hard to shift, i mean this is a pretty good tip if you have a decent bike and not a walmart one good video btw :D
This right in a perfect world where wear and tear does not happen, but clutch and cable does wear and tear. We have to adjust the cable time to time also you are making clutch wear more if you don't exactly the biting point by just creasing the clutch. If you ride anyone else's bike, please pull the clutch all the way.
Nice video! Hi!, first time riding clutch driven motorcylce, its kinda worrying because everytime downshift to 1st gear then blip the throttle( have this behavior of blipping the throttle multiple times while the clutch is engange) my engine sometime dies. Is tihs normal? As per the manufacture its an ECU thing getting confuse. Pls help. thank you
How do we develop this muscle memory if the clutch adjustment is constantly changing? Not to mention that it also changes depending on the engine temperature.
Hi Andrew. How do you explain people that they shouldn't pull the clutch+brake immediately during emergency braking from high speed . Because its a strong belief and a strong stereotype ) I'm trying to find the most convincing form ). And I've tried quite some
Hola! I don't know really, I usually just lay out all pros and cons and let the student decide for himself. The big problem is that usually there is not enough room to practice braking from high speeds, usually the parking lots allow to practice braking from 60-80km/h. And people tend to pull the clutch immediately just to not worry about it a few moments later. It usually goes away when we start to practice trail braking though, because there we don't stop completely and have to be in gear the whole time. Then the habit slowly creeps into braking on straight line too.
@@MotoControlEn yeah but starting from60+ there is a noticeable difference in braking path if one pull the clutch immediately. I know this from empirical experience but struggling to articulate it to people who are “strongly believers”
Good video till you come to the point where you press it so little that an extra neutral slowly appears between your favorite gears(4 &5th for me).I screwed up the gear selector i know
Short Clutch Video -ruclips.net/video/JhTf7cBeGcs/видео.html - this is how your clutch actually works. This technical drawing video is accurate and clearly shows how a clutch works. It's short. At the end of the video we can see that if we pull the lever all the way back to the bar then each of the plates separate from each other a little bit more, which reduces the chance of any friction still travelling through. So long as you pull the lever well past the biting point you should have enough separation for a clean gear change. It's good practise to pull the lever back quite far. As you can see in the video the clutch plates are very close together and when you pull the lever in the more you pull it the more they separate. Once you know where the biting point is it's quite simple when you're putting the lever in to reach it or when you're letting leave it out to reach the biting point. It's not that difficult once you've been driving for a while. And it will become intuitive to know just how far you need to pull in or just have fire you need to let out. That short clutch video will show you how an engine, gearbox and clutch work together. If you ever need to get your fracture replaced or understand how things work in the engine gearbox this short little video will help you understand what's wrong with your bike and what the mechanics need to do to fix it.
For bikes which have a standard clutch (wet multiplate and not the modern slipper clutch OR quick shifters) would it still be okay to only press half the lever? The concern is that unless the clutch is completely engaged, the shifts won't be smooth and without engaging the clutch fully, we will harm the gearbox, won't we?
It's a problem with me doing short videos without proper explanation - it can be misunderstood:) What I meant in this video is not pull in the clutch halfway, I meant to pull it in just past the biting point, not the whole way to a handlebar. On different bikes this biting point is obviously different. Once you pull it in enough, past the engagement point - your clutch is disengaged, there will be no difference if you proceed to pull it more, it's already disengaged. So for your shifting there will be 0 difference if you pulled in the clutch all the way or just past the engagement point. I hope I made sense, feel free to ask if you have some questions:)
@@MotoControlEnThank you, I actually need this explaination. I frequently snap my clutch cable, so I will try to follow your video and see if it can last longer.
The friction plates on a motorcycle clutch only need to separate by 1 or 2 millimeters to fully disengage all power coming off the crankshaft. Your clutch lever travels 50 millimeters before it touches the bar. In short, you have 49 to 48 millimeters of clutch lever travel that does absolutely nothing...
That looks like a hydraulic clutch which is different than the more common mechanical variant. It would be beneficial to show this on both types of clutch levers
@@Davy-lf4cj hydraulic clutches are usually lighter..... but with premium quality slipper clutch they are very hard to differentiate as a mechanical slipper clutch is very light too
Hi I have just started riding my bike so whenever I switch gears the clutch makes a click sound and also when I pull the clutch and shift gears it makes some sound like it will stall but it does run but not smoothly there is some jerk and noise while shifting
Hey Andrey. Are you currently giving riding lessons in Argentina? I would honestly travel to Buenos Aires if that's the case, as your videos are by far the best I've seen on riding technique. Saludos desde Chile!
Always pull the clutch lever all the way in when the bike is stationary and in gear. If the clutch friction plate has even slight contact it will cause it to burn out much quicker. While the bike is moving then it’s not necessary to pull the clutch all the way in providing the gear change is smooth
Im a new rider completely and as of a few days ago I got myself a Honda XR150L and i struggle with steering the bike and i tend to work myself up on the startup of the ride (Releasing the clutch) i end up releasing the clutch all at once by mistake and dont know what to do i never rode motorcycles or anything like this before but i do want to learn does anyone have any advice?
Unfortunately my new 1983 Nighthawk didnt have the clutch fluid changed.... ever .... so when I found orange pudding inside the clutch reservoir I decided to open the slave cylinder and to my surprise it was ... well the worst thing I had ever seen. So i cleaned it up as best i could with dremel tool and sand paper and she works again ... although... now i actually DO need to pull the lever down all the way 😅😅 at least until we pick up that rebuild kit 😏
Doesn't it hurt your wrist to not pull the handle all the way in? Once you pull it all the way in, it is easier to hold. I think it would hurt if every time you came to a stop you pulled your clutch lever only half way in.
Спасибо, что продолжаешь делать видео для русских. Радеешь за безопасность. Был подписан на тебя с самого начала. Когда ты был ещё мистером пуффом. Просмотры и монетизация значат больше, чем подписчики.
Привет! Я бы и рад на русский канал что-то делать, да видосы не на чем сейчас снимать, как можешь заметить - здесь у меня все видео старые) А тупо тоже самое перевыкладывать как-то не хочется.
i occasionally drive a 110cc motorcycle and as long as i am above 3kmph there is no need to engage clutch. the engine has enough torque to pull without stalling.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Conclusion of the video:
Know your bike's G-Spot
lolololol
Lol
Lol
Good observation and easy to remember.
I am bad at finding g-spot
Found this channel yesterday and immediately subscribed. No patronizing comments on how you are doing everything wrong. No self gratification by the presenter, Just really good content and advice from an obvious expert....Great job
Yep best instructor on YT
I absolutely love short quick videos like this that I can reference in the future.. Thank you!
Exactly what I just said so many people talk and it’s pointless
People commenting "mUh ClUtcH wEaR" , bro if you're so worried about clutch wear don't even ride, sell your bike or smth
Are new clutches cheap?
@@nervonabliss clutch are different compare to cars
I dont agree on that.
It literally says beginner, as a beginner it's natural to want to pull in all the way and worry about clutch wear, that's why he's teaching this
Pull clutch in very slow speed otherwise use brakes to control along with acceleration , then your brake pads will wear out
I can't believe this channel only has 18k subs. The content is so thorough and nuanced. Great job and keep it up!
Agreed!
34.5k now
Wait for a couple month
@@aingzuu2110 57,1 now
131k! Not bad
I live in the city of VERY steep hills, so finding the spot where the clutch engages is mandatory. Thanks for the tutorial.
Add more gas
Same. It helps to release the clutch at half the speed as you would on flat ground (4 seconds vs 8 second on a hill)
Wait...switch those lmao I'm tired 😅😂
SLOWER RELEASE ON HILL. there....I did it. That was hard. I sleep now. K bye ❤
Thank you! Not talked about enough. Took me a long time to gain the confidence to do that. I always thought that if I kept the clutch at its outer reaches, I would stall. Finally learned not to depress the clutch too far. Riding with more confidence, smoothness, and efficiency.
I'm beginner and pulling clutch all the way
@@oomrah9748 pulling all the way doesn't mean it's wrong
Even if the lever is pulled in all the way, I find it easy to put the clutch into the friction zone quickly. Say for instance that it takes 4 pounds of force to hold the lever. Now "pull" with only 2 pounds of force, and the lever moves to the friction zone almost instantly.
This is one of those custom adjustments I make to improve smooth handling of the bike. Along with converting to GP shift, I prefer to adjust the clutch cable slack so that the clutch engagement is much closer and sooner to the grip. You want the clutch to completely disengage but you don't want all that slack.
Adjusting so the grip point is as far away as possible from the handle results in having to pullclutch less when shifting, thus the possibility for faster shifting.
Although on the road it will not be (very) noticeable, but if you intend to do track riding, it is better to adjust it that way, as you will develop correct muscle memory.
I’m not so sure that’s a great idea with the fact that cable’s will stretch over time. If you do that brand new and get it too close to the grip there may come a point where the cable stretches and you can’t fully disengage the clutch…
@@kogasoldier9379 That's really not an issue. Like anything that has a break-in period keeping it properly lubed and adjusted keeps the cable or chain or anything else from prematurely stretching. Not lubing your cable is how you wear them out faster. Much like your chain.
@@timdavis6088 while that’s true, they absolutely do stretch regardless of the maintenance and you will reach a point that you can’t pull it in far enough to disengage the clutch entirely if you leave it there. That said if you keep up on the maintenance and adjustments it shouldn’t become a big problem. Just know that regardless of the maintenance you do, it will stretch and you will have to readjust at some point.
@@kogasoldier9379 Well, I ride a Honda 600RR. After 30K+ miles and 20+ years I've adjusted it all of twice. Not once has it failed to engage the clutch or disengage. Maybe it's the springs on your clutch plate that are getting weak and not your cable. Maybe it's more of a specific manufacturers problem? Whatever it is your seeing I don't see this in the 600RR community.
I never paid attention to this when shifting gears but now I will. I’m used to pulling it all the way when shifting.
*shitting, you mean?
I think at one point, we just adjust ourselves to do it automatically? I never thought about it consciously before, but it seems like I never pull the clutch all in except when starting from 0 or downshifting multiple gears at once (_coming to a stop_) 😛
I love your channel, you are an excellent teacher. I ride a 125cc scooter and I'm now training to get a motorcycle licence. I watch lots of your videos, great informative stuff. Thank you!!
I do hope you got it!
My first bike was a 175cc BSA Bantam with cork glued on to the wet clutch plates. Most of my bikes had wet clutches. I never damaged a wet clutch on any bike I've ever owned, rode or raced.
Only had two bikes with dry clutches, like a manual gearbox automobile. And so far, they're still in good shape.
I usually pull the clutch in fully and use the rear brake for hills, just how I learned. Give some gas, friction point, and go. Anyone else?
Agreed. People coming up with all kinds of hippy methods to have an excuse to make a youtube video these days.
I've been riding for about a year and I noticed when I started to transition to only 2 fingers on the clutch that I really never needed to pull it in nearly as far as I had been the whole time.
Thanks!
Muchas gracias!:)
@@MotoControlEn ¡A la orden!
I only ever use two fingers on the clutch; pointer and tall man. Ring man and pinkie are still there on the grip, opposing my thumb to actually maintain hold the bars.* I adjust the clutch so that when the lever is pulled in to just touch ring man, the clutch disengages. Really easy to use ring man as a feeler gauge, both in and out. No practice required. I can always fine tune a little for glove thickness, etc by moving my hand just a little further in of out on the grip. It is really that easy. Grab the clutch with 2 fingers. Pull back until lever touches fingers still on grip. Release the preset 3-7mm [whatever is good for you] to find the friction zone.
* A really important safety idea I learned in aviation, called redundancy. Works well on unexpected bumps and potholes that throttle right hand might not have been anticipating.
I like to adjust my clutch so it starts to engage just off the grip. This also helps with having better control of the clutch since I don't have to let it out so far.
You might see more clutch wear doing that. Also, I bet your bike kicks quite a bit when going into gear when cold as well 🤔
@@snatr I've not had any problem with either of my bikes going into gear cold. For Harleys they have extremely smooth first gear shifts.
You need to have some clutch freeplay
@@clintsride it has some, just not much
@@SamSwanner make sure Freeplay is as much as manual says otherwise you will burn clutch plates really fast .. don't ask me how I know that 🤣
Ive ridden Motorcycles for 51 years and still putting in the miles. Owned many makes. Never changed a clutch. No need to ride the clutch. If you know your bike, muscle memory will find the sweet spot within a fraction of a second. So fast it makes no difference. Pull it all the way in.
Thanks for these videos.
I passed my CBT and I'm still making clutch mistakes, so having videos like this to reference from experienced riders, is really handy.
That's good I'm going for mine soon. How many times did you stall asking because my bike has a loose gear lever I'm going to fix. Rode 400 miles 15 miles in a car park so 350 miles of live traffic. These videos help.
CBT
@@AyRCee Cool pfp, what do the black lines represent?
How do you know you're making clutch mistmakes?
Your experience is our strength, immediately flashes in our mind
Thank you sir for your lovely attitude towards beginners
The reason you pull the clutch in all the way is to completely separate the clutch plates and thus prevent it wearing out prematurely .
Thanks, please keep up the good work and keep educating us.
Cheers from the Netherlands!
This reminds me trigger control on firearm. There is also a point called "The wall" which basically is the equivalent of a biting point. In order to shoot more accurately and more efficiently you gotta learn to use that point, where you prepare the trigger by not squeezing it fully, but enough you feel a tension. And then smoothly apply a more pressure. It's amazing how two almost seperate things have this detail in common.
Nice one bro 🎉
I've learned this in a terrifying way, when I first learned how to drive i always pull the lever all the way to the handle bar then there was a time where I'm going to a long smooth turn and I need to upshift, i pull the clutch all the way and engage in another gear, when I release it the bike has a slight jump while turning. It was a terrifying experience, i thought I was gonna crash good thing I didn't panic. A few meters after that my heart started beating like crazy, I pulled over and relaxed for a bit. After that I always practice a smoother gear change by practicing the clutch control and throttle control ( for rev matching ), now i can shift a gear in a smoother manner unconsciously.
😂 that's a terrific experience
Thank you for helping me learn this cN even happen. I take my Beginner rider course next Wednesday for my permit
It's a good idea to just not shift while leaned over anyway, be in the right gear BEFORE the corner. If you do then you really need to make sure you shift properly. If you dump the clutch too early or late you're going to have a bad day. Correct rev matching is extra important on a bike.
isnt it the same with a car tho when you dont pull it in all the way it wears the clutch plates out faster?
cus my car can shift at half clutch but it does wear it out way faster
Great explanation! Thanks I’m going to try this. I’ve been pulling the clutch in all the way when going through the gears, then suffer a bit of engine braking before the bike revs pick up and take off in gear.
First day of bike ownership for me today. Went for a short ride and needed this help,
Thank you,
Cheers 🍻
Dont worried about clucth wear, as long as the rpm's aren't too high it's fine.
I think this is more about handling the friction zone, where one acid test is a graceful up-hill start - esp with right foot down and front brake (one should manage all alternatives). All-in or not at changing gear for us speed grassroots wouldn't be a divider at all if you ask me.
i cant use the middle finger clutching method here in my country. most of the riders and bystanders here are too sensitive if they saw me doing that
Very educational, Straight to the point, great channel, thanks 🙏
Should I keep my clutch really tight then on the adjustment rather than lose
The videos are super helpful! I havent seen better on youtube yet! Great videos mate!
Finally a short video for such a simple thing! Thank you!
Hi!, Moto Control, currently i/active from the 3rd-world last 15yrs, but englnd b4that,.. quite new m/bke rider but car from age17,.. what about the clutch free-play situation, can u keep the c/levr closer to the handle against the manufacturer's guidelines, what difference does that make exactly?... clutch wear?... what else?... luv yor channel, luv yor style of coaching...bratha, bol.lol.
Very good consideration. Just enough to disengage!
Probably half way down on my bikes. That's actually how I've been doing it without thinking about it. Thank you
If you're not abusing the clutch and purposely riding it and over-revving, the wear and tear from easy and normal riding should make it last for years and years.
PS: thank you your channel is really awesome, your content is genuine and very relevant, It’s a pleasure to watch.
One comment: personally I’m not fan of your titles, they sometime sound like click bait videos. Which is a shame since the content is really good. Just saying. Thanks again !
Thanks! Titles ARE clickbait, once I started to make them this way I suddenly got x10 views. I'm sorry, but it's sort of necessary evil on youtube if you want your videos to be seen.🙃
Clickbait isnt much of an issue when the bait itself tastes good, and it helps the creator to gain more views
Awesome. New rider. I think this has been mybossue.. classes told me. Pull fully in to full out on my brand new bike. But it keeps stalling on my from a stop. So. I'm trying this in morning
Good Day! Wow! I didn't know there was an easier way of using the clutch hahah, I've known manual transmissions way before I start learning a motorcycle (8 years ago) since I initially started on a manual transmission car. I would like to ask if the same principle applies to manual cars as well? Where I can just step on the clutch until there's no moving anymore and then proceed with shifting gears?
Also pull it with just one or two fingers so that the little and ring fingers can be used for a better grip on the knob
It's like a bike thing, cause in some bikes if you don't pull the clutch all the way in the gearbox becomes very hard to shift, i mean this is a pretty good tip if you have a decent bike and not a walmart one good video btw :D
Best channel, you cover things in details and to the point, thanks🙂
This right in a perfect world where wear and tear does not happen, but clutch and cable does wear and tear. We have to adjust the cable time to time also you are making clutch wear more if you don't exactly the biting point by just creasing the clutch. If you ride anyone else's bike, please pull the clutch all the way.
Perfect , you just helped me a great deal !
I have been looking for this question since so long. Thank you, Sir!
Tq so much. I learned to change clutch perfectly from you video. Also you earned a subscriber.
Nice video! Hi!, first time riding clutch driven motorcylce, its kinda worrying because everytime downshift to 1st gear then blip the throttle( have this behavior of blipping the throttle multiple times while the clutch is engange) my engine sometime dies. Is tihs normal? As per the manufacture its an ECU thing getting confuse. Pls help. thank you
Thank you for the short and sweet tutorial!!
Thank you for this useful tip. I used to pull clutch all the way like I was pressing my pedal in my car.
They only tell you to do that in a car coz the point is further away then a bike
Been doing this for the longest lol. Thank you 🙏😊😊
Just subscribed as your videos are so easy to understand and don't just waffle on. Thank you.
How do we develop this muscle memory if the clutch adjustment is constantly changing? Not to mention that it also changes depending on the engine temperature.
Great video! Thanks for posting a quick and important tip!
Love the short videos!
Freaking awesome, this is the type of information I need to not look like a newbie at traffic lights
Long or short, your videos are always well worth watching...
Hi Andrew. How do you explain people that they shouldn't pull the clutch+brake immediately during emergency braking from high speed . Because its a strong belief and a strong stereotype ) I'm trying to find the most convincing form ). And I've tried quite some
Hola! I don't know really, I usually just lay out all pros and cons and let the student decide for himself. The big problem is that usually there is not enough room to practice braking from high speeds, usually the parking lots allow to practice braking from 60-80km/h. And people tend to pull the clutch immediately just to not worry about it a few moments later. It usually goes away when we start to practice trail braking though, because there we don't stop completely and have to be in gear the whole time. Then the habit slowly creeps into braking on straight line too.
@@MotoControlEn yeah but starting from60+ there is a noticeable difference in braking path if one pull the clutch immediately. I know this from empirical experience but struggling to articulate it to people who are “strongly believers”
@@nebachiv2 Yes, that's precisely what I'm talking about:)
@@MotoControlEn )
Thank you for these kinda video. Really helpful.
I make the mistake of always pulling the clutch all the way in when change gear, I get the jerk movement. But I fear i'll stall if I only pull halfway
I have been enjoying your videos. Some of the information I know, some is new. However, it's all good. Keep making quality videos!
great video bro bet this helped so many people great explaining how the clutch works pretty much same as car but just in different form
Good stuff. Thank you.
Good video till you come to the point where you press it so little that an extra neutral slowly appears between your favorite gears(4 &5th for me).I screwed up the gear selector i know
Good video. My exact issue with my new motorbike. My muscle memory isn't set yet 😅.
Excellent tip - thanks !
Short Clutch Video -ruclips.net/video/JhTf7cBeGcs/видео.html - this is how your clutch actually works. This technical drawing video is accurate and clearly shows how a clutch works. It's short.
At the end of the video we can see that if we pull the lever all the way back to the bar then each of the plates separate from each other a little bit more, which reduces the chance of any friction still travelling through.
So long as you pull the lever well past the biting point you should have enough separation for a clean gear change. It's good practise to pull the lever back quite far. As you can see in the video the clutch plates are very close together and when you pull the lever in the more you pull it the more they separate.
Once you know where the biting point is it's quite simple when you're putting the lever in to reach it or when you're letting leave it out to reach the biting point. It's not that difficult once you've been driving for a while. And it will become intuitive to know just how far you need to pull in or just have fire you need to let out.
That short clutch video will show you how an engine, gearbox and clutch work together. If you ever need to get your fracture replaced or understand how things work in the engine gearbox this short little video will help you understand what's wrong with your bike and what the mechanics need to do to fix it.
1) depends on the clutch
2) if I'm worried about speed I don't use the clutch at all unless taking off from a stop
I only use my clutch when getting out of first or downshifting but I clutch less up shift
For bikes which have a standard clutch (wet multiplate and not the modern slipper clutch OR quick shifters) would it still be okay to only press half the lever?
The concern is that unless the clutch is completely engaged, the shifts won't be smooth and without engaging the clutch fully, we will harm the gearbox, won't we?
yes its fine
It's a problem with me doing short videos without proper explanation - it can be misunderstood:) What I meant in this video is not pull in the clutch halfway, I meant to pull it in just past the biting point, not the whole way to a handlebar. On different bikes this biting point is obviously different. Once you pull it in enough, past the engagement point - your clutch is disengaged, there will be no difference if you proceed to pull it more, it's already disengaged. So for your shifting there will be 0 difference if you pulled in the clutch all the way or just past the engagement point. I hope I made sense, feel free to ask if you have some questions:)
@@MotoControlEn makes perfect sense as it did in your vid. I’ve learned a lot btw. Thank you!
@@MotoControlEnThank you, I actually need this explaination. I frequently snap my clutch cable, so I will try to follow your video and see if it can last longer.
Big help for a beginner like me. Thank you!
Just bought my first bike and this is really informative Thank you so much
Fantastic 🙂👍🏻 keep them videos coming
Thanks. Very helpful
The friction plates on a motorcycle clutch only need to separate by 1 or 2 millimeters to fully disengage all power coming off the crankshaft. Your clutch lever travels 50 millimeters before it touches the bar. In short, you have 49 to 48 millimeters of clutch lever travel that does absolutely nothing...
Currently working on getting a license for motorcycles. The clutch is a pain to figure out.
This is so helpful, thank you!!
That looks like a hydraulic clutch which is different than the more common mechanical variant.
It would be beneficial to show this on both types of clutch levers
I've got both hydraulic and standard clutches on my bikes!
Makes no difference 🙂
@@Davy-lf4cj hydraulic clutches are usually lighter..... but with premium quality slipper clutch they are very hard to differentiate as a mechanical slipper clutch is very light too
@@VirtualTech 👍🙂
so to shift gears i dont have to pull in the whole clutch? only tll the biting point?
Hi I have just started riding my bike so whenever I switch gears the clutch makes a click sound and also when I pull the clutch and shift gears it makes some sound like it will stall but it does run but not smoothly there is some jerk and noise while shifting
Hey Andrey. Are you currently giving riding lessons in Argentina? I would honestly travel to Buenos Aires if that's the case, as your videos are by far the best I've seen on riding technique. Saludos desde Chile!
Hola!👋😁 Don't have any classes now, but I think I will, as soon as I sort out all the personal stuff here!
Takes a lot to wear out a clutch and break pads now a days. Unless your dumping the clutch at every red light and slamming on the breaks
Great advice with the incline taking off. 👍
Please make more videos you were short and to the point no extra talking bs I love that
Always pull the clutch lever all the way in when the bike is stationary and in gear. If the clutch friction plate has even slight contact it will cause it to burn out much quicker. While the bike is moving then it’s not necessary to pull the clutch all the way in providing the gear change is smooth
Thank you for the good information
Im a new rider completely and as of a few days ago I got myself a Honda XR150L and i struggle with steering the bike and i tend to work myself up on the startup of the ride (Releasing the clutch) i end up releasing the clutch all at once by mistake and dont know what to do i never rode motorcycles or anything like this before but i do want to learn does anyone have any advice?
Excellent advice and straight to the point, thank you. You gained a subscriber.
Two finger✌️ is best for clutch lever for gear up shift and down shift because the pulling power is pretty fast...💥
Its great that borat has found a new career.
I am interested, when you drop from 2nd to 1st gear to come to a stop. Do you pull the clutch in aswell as break to stop?
Yes as you are stopping you clutch needs to be pulled in otherwise the bike will keep going forward until it's put in neutral
Unfortunately my new 1983 Nighthawk didnt have the clutch fluid changed.... ever .... so when I found orange pudding inside the clutch reservoir I decided to open the slave cylinder and to my surprise it was ... well the worst thing I had ever seen.
So i cleaned it up as best i could with dremel tool and sand paper and she works again ... although... now i actually DO need to pull the lever down all the way 😅😅
at least until we pick up that rebuild kit 😏
Doesn't it hurt your wrist to not pull the handle all the way in?
Once you pull it all the way in, it is easier to hold.
I think it would hurt if every time you came to a stop you pulled your clutch lever only half way in.
thanks for describing
Thanks Andrey.
Can i come and practice at ur school? I live in sweeden.. how much for lessons
Спасибо, что продолжаешь делать видео для русских. Радеешь за безопасность. Был подписан на тебя с самого начала. Когда ты был ещё мистером пуффом. Просмотры и монетизация значат больше, чем подписчики.
Привет! Я бы и рад на русский канал что-то делать, да видосы не на чем сейчас снимать, как можешь заметить - здесь у меня все видео старые) А тупо тоже самое перевыкладывать как-то не хочется.
What if I pull the clutch all the way while shifting gears? Will there be a problem?
No it just won’t be as fast and smooth as if u didn’t pull it all the way in.
Great accent, super concise content 👌 👏
i occasionally drive a 110cc motorcycle and as long as i am above 3kmph there is no need to engage clutch. the engine has enough torque to pull without stalling.
Thanks man! That's the mistake I always do.