I would HIGHLY suggest removing the fill plug first! Reason being if you can't remove the fill plug you won't be able to get any new fluid in and your truck/suv is now sitting wherever you started this job at until you can drill and tap a new hole for a fill plug.
I bought the shiny thick edged diff cover with the plug in it...still filled on the diff plug hole so as not to break the seal on cover..but correct on loosening bolt if diff cover has no fill...
Check for PROPER gear lube level as this video is not correct! If you fill it to the top of the fill hole it will take almost double of the gear lube required and it will mostly fill the axle housing and will cavitate and blow past the seals. The aftermarket cover has a correct level fill plug that will not make you fill the entire axle housing with gear lube. The plug is in fact a fill hole but not a fill to the top hole.
To be honest!! This is one of the best channels that explain step by step clearly, all the way,. My respects for y'all ,.. God bless y'all .. It helps me a lot fixing my cars,. I save time and money,.. Love y'all guys,..
If you're only replacing the seal and or bearing, skip the step of removing the caliper from it's bracket, just remove 2 bolts for bracket and pull as complete assembly.
You guys are the best at making these step-by-step videos. Most guys explain what they're gonna do, then the video cuts and it's basically "well, I've done the difficult thing you needed help with, now I can show you exactly how to do something simple and obvious in great detail."
Love the videos, but one thing I would add is to begin each repair video with common symptoms that you may encounter that led you to the particular repair. Thanks.
I have been trying to replace rear wheel bearing on 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 and they will not budge. I have the bearing puller like that one and broke it trying to pull the bearing. Any ideas how to unfreeze it?
I saw another video that said the orientation of the bearing was important. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming the stamped numbers on the bearing face out.
2 things, remove the drain plug first, if you get that far and it can't come loose you're screwed. Also get new diff cover bolts, it's a few bucks and will save you if you do any other diff servicing or work in the future.
FYI my 09 Avalanche ls has abs wheels speed sensor ring assemblies or reluctor assemblies installed inside the axle case which go in before the bearing and seal. The slide hammer bearing puller I used would not fit between the bearing & reluctor. I tried going past the reluctor & whammying it but the bearing would not budge. Ended up forcing the puller between the bearing & reluctor which chingered the reluctor. 2 new reluctor assy. = $84 OEM part # 15286384
I'm a mechanic but believe me I have fun watching you guys doing the right job. the other day somebody called me and he said to me that he was trying to replace the wheel bearing by watching your videos but he doesn't know how to pull the bearing out hhhh he showed me this video that he was using to replace it. the job is done and his car is running perfect and the noise went away. Good Luck Guys.
+Hamza Fouli thanks for the kind words! It's always good to hear that people appreciate our videos, and that they're able to use them to get job done right. Thanks for taking the time to comment. For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-rear-pair/i/1ashs00736?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
The easiest way to pull out the "C" retainer at 6:35 is to put the truck in neutral and spin the prop shaft until the access hole is pointing down, then just wiggle the retainer with a screw driver and it falls right out.
Couldn’t be bothered to mention the plastic abs tone rings that are easily damaged with the bearing puller? Doing this job over because this video didn’t mention a word about abs. Time for an updated video!
Just a hint, since the rear end housing was so rusty, before you begin you may want to make sure the fill plug is at least loose, hate to get it all back together then can't get the fill plug out to fill it back up.
I always enjoy watching your videos. Excellent information. FYI - @12:40, many GM diffs should not be full to overflowing the fill hole. My 2001 Tahoe and I think my 06 sierra specify full fluid level is 15mm below the bottom of the fill hole.
+Karl Keenan Thanks for watching! We do not actually carry that puller, but a lot of auto part stores have rental programs for these kind of specialty tool. They will come with a variety of sizes included with the rental in most cases! 1aauto.com
+Jesus Hernandez We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Would this procedure be the same for 2007 Avalanche? Also, you showed one side wheel bearing. Is it the same for the other side? C clip in the differential? Thanks for the vids, they are great!
What I like to do is use the old bearing as the driver to install the new one, I bust all the rollers out and zip cut across the outer race then tack weld it to a pipe and hammer the new one in, the zip cut allows the old race to compress and pull out nicely when the new race is seated fully :)
Excellent advice. Would you know whether our 2002 Chev Tahoe rear axle shaft can accept an axle repair bearing? The original destroyed the machined surface of the axle and all the roller bearings disintegrated. I bought a US made custom one to replace it.😉 It cost me $50 for a repair bearing so I want to do it right the first time.
I know this is a video about Chevy but I have a 2000 dodge 1500 Dana 44 axle. I got the c clip out but I had to bang on the axle because it would move by hand. Now I can’t remove the axle I can only get it to move about 2 inches out any suggestions on how to get the axle out. FYI I had a shop replace this same side 2 months ago.
I can't comment on the procedure since there must be a total of 50 silverados and tahoes in my country, as I am from Greece. However it is refreshing to see a mechanic working without gloves! Every time I tried they only lasted 5 minutes before taking them off and I have the scars to prove it. Such a lovely new plate, it is a shame you didn't run to the hardware store to pick up some new galvanized bolts. It seems wrong that you have to use a 12 mm anything on an american vehicle :D
+young 04 This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The only item not discussed is the removal of the spare tire. On the older chevy’s it’s not much of an issue but I’m not sure when they put that stupid safety lock on the spare tire lowering device as it is possibly the most un serviced item on the truck as we all know out of sight out of mind. Mine is all rusted and locked up and according to Les Swab the usually have to cut it out. That’s where I’m at now. So check your spare tire and make sure you can lower it completely before you start your project.
Wat makes it still make noise after all the gears r takin out then crank it up n park THA drive shaft is turning n still making noise, pull it down n low 2 noise stops
Great video step by step. What skill level would you guys rate this job. My 19 y/o son recently bought a Tahoe and this is one of the jobs we are considering we are competent with tools but a little nervous about it.
Is the rear diff output yolk that connects to the driveshaft lubricated from the diff oil, or does it have its own sealed bearings? I've got 300k on one of these diffs and wonder if the yolk needs any attention.
Do bent axle shafts also cause knocking sounds? I have a 2007 silverado and when I brake the driver side rear brakes make a knocking sound, I checked it and everything looked good, until I let the shaft spin and it had wobble to it.
How are those C-clips retained? They seem to come out so easily. Is there just a bit of expansion under tension as they are in position in that groove at the end of the axle? Thank you.
Why did you reuse the Raggedy Rusted Worn Assed Out Old Bolts with a New Diff cover?? It is only $3 max to replace them. Just an OCD question but GREAT video and thank you for it
First of all, I love your videos.Rear axle removal to replace seal and bearingsGood morning. I'm working on my 2005 Cadillac escalade awd esv. Went to change rear axle seals and bearings and axles will not pull out. I pulled the pin and c clips out in differential. Still feels like c clips are on. Axles should pull out. Watched several videos and researched this procedure. Only found results for suburban and no cadillac escalade. Am I missing something or do I need to start slamming a slide hammer and axle puller? The videos show that once the c clips are out the axles should just pull out. I did have to bang on axles at wheel end to get c clips out. Was shy by about 1/16th inch.
Just got done watching this video to see if the bearings still ride directly on the axle shafts like they did in the 1970s GM axles I'm familiar with. They do and I'm surprised the people that made this video didn't include the axle shaft that was obviously replaced in the parts needed list or mention that in the video. I'm not taking my brothers apart until I have a shaft on the bench in case it's needed (most likely needed). I see Dorman offers a shaft, seal and bearing kit for much less than a OEM shaft used to cost (China?). Good video otherwise.
excellent video. I have a 2002 suburban that needs them both changed. Just wanted to check if there was anything "special" on this vehicle. Looks like you covered it all. The only things I will do differently is drain the oil first using the drain plug and have the bearings in my freezer all night so they go in easier. Going to watch Houston tie up the series tonight.
Hey 1A Auto I replaced both of my drivers and passenger side wheel hub and brake rotors but my steering wheel still wobbles when I drive above 50 what could it be ??
+Beni Camacho We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
On my 09 silverado 1500.where is the abs trigger? On the axle? sensor is on the side of the tube...I haven't seen an axle shaft with anything on it. Thx
Once again you guys have done an excellent job of educating me! I have one question. What should I torque the differential filler cap/plug to, once the lubricant has been replaced? Thanks again!
+Steven Miller Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the wheel bearings shown in this video on our website. We also offer free shipping and a lifetime warranty. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-rear-pair/i/1ashs00736?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
No. This style rear end's axle is retained by that heavy C shaped washer he removed just before pulling the axle from the housing assembly. A small amount of in and out play is normal for this style. Now on a Ford 9 inch "pig style" rear end for example, the pressed on outer axle bearing is the only thing holding the axle in place and there better be no in and out play at all.
BrokenPortriats Catching a GM rear axle outer bearing failure early will save you the cost of also having to replace that expensive axle shaft that the bearing rides on. Outer bearing failures may sound like a rumbling noise that gets louder and changes pitch with increases in vehicle speed. Vehicles that have been in floods should have their axle oils changed immediately, as rust can form within hours and damage both bearings and gears.
ok thank you! I was able to replace the wheel bearings! no major issues. just needed up one wheel bearing because I thought my pull out tool was made to drive them in also. I went back to AutoZone to rent the actual interchangeable hammer heads and they then gave me a free bearing for my efforts. everything id back together. I would note that if your rotors are old, the parking brake gets stuck as there is about a quarter inch of the rotor that's past the parking break. So mine being semi old had bubbled up with rust on this quarter inch line that the parking brake had to go over, alot of leverage prying is the trick for me. All went back together and now the deceleration rumble from 70-60 is completely gone. ...and my backs gone lol
I have a 2000 gmc sierra 2500. It's not an HD and i have a rear seal out. I'm going to replace the bearings and race on it too. So I'm wondering a couple thing is there a seal behind where the bearing will go and also what size bearing will i need there are 2 options 9.5 and 10.5? Or how would i be able to find this out without tearing it down first?
√ *Watch the Video*
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I would HIGHLY suggest removing the fill plug first! Reason being if you can't remove the fill plug you won't be able to get any new fluid in and your truck/suv is now sitting wherever you started this job at until you can drill and tap a new hole for a fill plug.
You can always buy the cover that has the drain/fill hole as well!!!
He cracked yo head with that one 😆
I bought the shiny thick edged diff cover with the plug in it...still filled on the diff plug hole so as not to break the seal on cover..but correct on loosening bolt if diff cover has no fill...
Check for PROPER gear lube level as this video is not correct! If you fill it to the top of the fill hole it will take almost double of the gear lube required and it will mostly fill the axle housing and will cavitate and blow past the seals. The aftermarket cover has a correct level fill plug that will not make you fill the entire axle housing with gear lube. The plug is in fact a fill hole but not a fill to the top hole.
To be honest!! This is one of the best channels that explain step by step clearly, all the way,. My respects for y'all ,.. God bless y'all .. It helps me a lot fixing my cars,. I save time and money,.. Love y'all guys,..
If you're only replacing the seal and or bearing, skip the step of removing the caliper from it's bracket, just remove 2 bolts for bracket and pull as complete assembly.
You guys are the best at making these step-by-step videos. Most guys explain what they're gonna do, then the video cuts and it's basically "well, I've done the difficult thing you needed help with, now I can show you exactly how to do something simple and obvious in great detail."
Love that when you by something from 1A Auto they have a video on how to install it,plus free shipping. 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear we could help you out. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Love the videos, but one thing I would add is to begin each repair video with common symptoms that you may encounter that led you to the particular repair. Thanks.
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Ohh... so it’s just that easy....excuse me while I just light my truck on fire
I have been trying to replace rear wheel bearing on 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 and they will not budge. I have the bearing puller like that one and broke it trying to pull the bearing. Any ideas how to unfreeze it?
I saw another video that said the orientation of the bearing was important. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming the stamped numbers on the bearing face out.
2 things, remove the drain plug first, if you get that far and it can't come loose you're screwed. Also get new diff cover bolts, it's a few bucks and will save you if you do any other diff servicing or work in the future.
+Steve D Thanks for the feedback!
Just replace the diff cover with one that has an oil plug. if you cant get that drain plug out
FYI my 09 Avalanche ls has abs wheels speed sensor ring assemblies or reluctor assemblies installed inside the axle case which go in before the bearing and seal. The slide hammer bearing puller I used would not fit between the bearing & reluctor. I tried going past the reluctor & whammying it but the bearing would not budge. Ended up forcing the puller between the bearing & reluctor which chingered the reluctor. 2 new reluctor assy. = $84 OEM part # 15286384
keep making these videos please they real do help us shade tree mechanics!!!!!
A1 auto could get rich off replacing the parts on this one Tahoe
I'm a mechanic but believe me I have fun watching you guys doing the right job.
the other day somebody called me and he said to me that he was trying to replace the wheel bearing by watching your videos but he doesn't know how to pull the bearing out hhhh
he showed me this video that he was using to replace it.
the job is done and his car is running perfect and the noise went away.
Good Luck Guys.
+Hamza Fouli thanks for the kind words! It's always good to hear that people appreciate our videos, and that they're able to use them to get job done right. Thanks for taking the time to comment. For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-rear-pair/i/1ashs00736?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Can you send a link to wear I could get a bearing puller thing. Also the Diff gaskets, and bearing seal?
good vid but i did not see any neversieze applied to any bolts?
The easiest way to pull out the "C" retainer at 6:35 is to put the truck in neutral and spin the prop shaft until the access hole is pointing down, then just wiggle the retainer with a screw driver and it falls right out.
the beginning of video about blew my ear drums out. had it on full blast and ear buds in lmfao.
I mostly watch these videos to decide whether or not I'll be in over my head if I try to do it myself. This one is a good example.
@A1auto please help me in knowing the right size bearing puller kit and bearing driver kit for 2002 Tahoe with 8.5in rear axle bearing?
Couldn’t be bothered to mention the plastic abs tone rings that are easily damaged with the bearing puller?
Doing this job over because this video didn’t mention a word about abs.
Time for an updated video!
Thank so much to France!
Have a good day, bye...
Just a hint, since the rear end housing was so rusty, before you begin you may want to make sure the fill plug is at least loose, hate to get it all back together then can't get the fill plug out to fill it back up.
I always enjoy watching your videos. Excellent information. FYI - @12:40, many GM diffs should not be full to overflowing the fill hole. My 2001 Tahoe and I think my 06 sierra specify full fluid level is 15mm below the bottom of the fill hole.
06 avalanche this does not work c clips had to be pryed out axle still wont come out
Best damn channel on RUclips. Hope to see more. Thanks guys
Thank you for watching! Glad to be of help. Let us know how the repair turns out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Exactly let's all support by buying parts from him.
Is it standard practive to by a new bearing seal too or are those usually in good shape/reusuable?
You don’t even show how to take out the seal, you just jump straight to the bearing
Nice video! What Name brand of bearing tool did you use?
Not a 99-13 Chevy Silverado 1500 Truck
can you please list the size puller you used to remove the old bearing? and do you sale it if so whats the part number?
+Karl Keenan Thanks for watching! We do not actually carry that puller, but a lot of auto part stores have rental programs for these kind of specialty tool. They will come with a variety of sizes included with the rental in most cases! 1aauto.com
I have a 2003 gmc savana , when I put on Reverse make a noise like pe pe.
Can be the differential problem or side wheel bearing or u joints ??
+Jesus Hernandez We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My 2012 Silverado has drum brakes on the rear...
Is it common for the rear bearings to go bad?
+TheAnayal8tr They do from time to time. You can always have the vehicle inspected by a mechanic if you are unsure. Thanks! 1AAuto.com
great instruction! I would have thought there would have been new bolts in with the new diff cover? Or it really wasn't a big deal, the existing ones.
Anyone ever have a problem where the pinion gear thrust washer falls out?
How did you turn the dif with the pin out without dropping the spider gears?
Great videos every time. I did this in my garage in about 2 hours.
👏🏻
Rust on the diff bolts!? *Laugh in California*
Great stuff to educate yourself, for that we thank you 1A Auto . Keep up the repair videos !
Would this procedure be the same for 2007 Avalanche? Also, you showed one side wheel bearing. Is it the same for the other side? C clip in the differential? Thanks for the vids, they are great!
Come on didn't install new differential cover bolts
Keep up the great vids! Thank you for the great tutorials!
Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
We Will! All we ask is that you think of www.1aauto.com next time you need parts for your vehicle! Thank You!
What about doing a double cardan joint on a jeep cherokee
We'll keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com
What I like to do is use the old bearing as the driver to install the new one, I bust all the rollers out and zip cut across the outer race then tack weld it to a pipe and hammer the new one in, the zip cut allows the old race to compress and pull out nicely when the new race is seated fully :)
Excellent advice. Would you know whether our 2002 Chev Tahoe rear axle shaft can accept an axle repair bearing? The original destroyed the machined surface of the axle and all the roller bearings disintegrated. I bought a US made custom one to replace it.😉
It cost me $50 for a repair bearing so I want to do it right the first time.
My tire moves in and out in the rear. Guessing this is the issue.
Any idea how to to get that pin out my 8 mm bolt is stripped
I know this is a video about Chevy but I have a 2000 dodge 1500 Dana 44 axle. I got the c clip out but I had to bang on the axle because it would move by hand. Now I can’t remove the axle I can only get it to move about 2 inches out any suggestions on how to get the axle out. FYI I had a shop replace this same side 2 months ago.
Great video! Is this the same for a 2007 Avalanche? Would I be able to do this in my driveway with jack stands?
My axle will not go back in? Why is that?!
How do you know when the bearing is damaged?
I can't comment on the procedure since there must be a total of 50 silverados and tahoes in my country, as I am from Greece. However it is refreshing to see a mechanic working without gloves! Every time I tried they only lasted 5 minutes before taking them off and I have the scars to prove it.
Such a lovely new plate, it is a shame you didn't run to the hardware store to pick up some new galvanized bolts.
It seems wrong that you have to use a 12 mm anything on an american vehicle :D
Enjoyed seeing the step by step instructions. The one thing I found humorous is putting on a a new differential cover on a rusted out car like that.
Mine has snap rings there’s like a metal sleve the snap rings between the bearing and seal
+young 04 This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The only item not discussed is the removal of the spare tire. On the older chevy’s it’s not much of an issue but I’m not sure when they put that stupid safety lock on the spare tire lowering device as it is possibly the most un serviced item on the truck as we all know out of sight out of mind. Mine is all rusted and locked up and according to Les Swab the usually have to cut it out. That’s where I’m at now. So check your spare tire and make sure you can lower it completely before you start your project.
Wat makes it still make noise after all the gears r takin out then crank it up n park THA drive shaft is turning n still making noise, pull it down n low 2 noise stops
Great video step by step. What skill level would you guys rate this job. My 19 y/o son recently bought a Tahoe and this is one of the jobs we are considering we are competent with tools but a little nervous about it.
Is the rear diff output yolk that connects to the driveshaft lubricated from the diff oil, or does it have its own sealed bearings? I've got 300k on one of these diffs and wonder if the yolk needs any attention.
What was the problem? How did you k m ow it needed to be replaced? Was there any noises, knocking or whirring?
Can help someone? How much differenz is the tolerance by axleplay in milimeter at the c-ring.
Do bent axle shafts also cause knocking sounds? I have a 2007 silverado and when I brake the driver side rear brakes make a knocking sound, I checked it and everything looked good, until I let the shaft spin and it had wobble to it.
How are those C-clips retained? They seem to come out so easily. Is there just a bit of expansion under tension as they are in position in that groove at the end of the axle? Thank you.
I snapped off the stud while trying to remove the rear tire. do I need to pull the whole axel like in this video or is there a simpler way?
Why did you reuse the Raggedy Rusted Worn Assed Out Old Bolts with a New Diff cover?? It is only $3 max to replace them. Just an OCD question but GREAT video and thank you for it
you give me an affiliate link for that slide hammer, I will 100% click it and buy it
First of all, I love your videos.Rear axle removal to replace seal and bearingsGood morning. I'm working on my 2005 Cadillac escalade awd esv. Went to change rear axle seals and bearings and axles will not pull out. I pulled the pin and c clips out in differential. Still feels like c clips are on. Axles should pull out. Watched several videos and researched this procedure. Only found results for suburban and no cadillac escalade. Am I missing something or do I need to start slamming a slide hammer and axle puller? The videos show that once the c clips are out the axles should just pull out. I did have to bang on axles at wheel end to get c clips out. Was shy by about 1/16th inch.
Don back up your in the way lol 😂
Is this the same for mine? I have 10' 1500 silverado, and it has drum brakes in the rear
Just got done watching this video to see if the bearings still ride directly on the axle shafts like they did in the 1970s GM axles I'm familiar with. They do and I'm surprised the people that made this video didn't include the axle shaft that was obviously replaced in the parts needed list or mention that in the video. I'm not taking my brothers apart until I have a shaft on the bench in case it's needed (most likely needed). I see Dorman offers a shaft, seal and bearing kit for much less than a OEM shaft used to cost (China?). Good video otherwise.
I have in and out play but not much up and down but rear tire is wearing out on outside on half of tire???
That's a huge slide hammer, where do you get one like that. As usual, another helpful video! Thx
Would a worn rear bearing cause negative chamber ? My left rear tire looks like it has negative chamber while the other looks straight
Is there a clip on each axel or 1 for both?
+@houstoncalderon There is one on each axle.
excellent video. I have a 2002 suburban that needs them both changed. Just wanted to check if there was anything "special" on this vehicle. Looks like you covered it all. The only things I will do differently is drain the oil first using the drain plug and have the bearings in my freezer all night so they go in easier. Going to watch Houston tie up the series tonight.
What is the part number of the bearing puller you used so that you can get the bearing out without damaging the speed sensor reluctor ring?
That diff fluid loos really bad
Hey 1A Auto I replaced both of my drivers and passenger side wheel hub and brake rotors but my steering wheel still wobbles when I drive above 50 what could it be ??
+Beni Camacho We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is a very informative in helping me tackle this issue. Thanks
Has anyone else noticed the guy is working on two different vehicles? One with disk brakes the other with brake shoes! I guess this is for beginners!
That’s the emergency/parking brake
You smashed the socket on there and didn't replace the bolts wow...
On my 09 silverado 1500.where is the abs trigger? On the axle? sensor is on the side of the tube...I haven't seen an axle shaft with anything on it. Thx
Man as a floridian, I am in horror at the vehicles you work on.
After installing new bearing ALWAYS PUT IN A NEW SEAL. You don’t want to go through all this work and have your seal start leaking!!!
+No to Socialism-communism-Marxists-demoncrats Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Does the axle have to be re-greased?
Also, I have wheel spacers on mine. Can I still leave the spacers and rotor on?
Is this the same process for a 93-2002 Chevrolet Camaro?
note: on 2007 and up requires a special tool to remove the bearing. spx j-45857 there's to little space between bearing and tone ring..
+raul alvarado Thanks for the tip!
Once again you guys have done an excellent job of educating me! I have one question. What should I torque the differential filler cap/plug to, once the lubricant has been replaced? Thanks again!
+Steven Miller Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the wheel bearings shown in this video on our website. We also offer free shipping and a lifetime warranty. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-rear-pair/i/1ashs00736?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
What should I torque the differential filler cap/plug to, once the lubricant has been replaced?
@@desertman3 did they ever reply back?
would a bad bearing cause in and out play of my rear wheel close to 1/8" or soo?
It might, they wheel may also have side-to-side or up and down play, if the wheel bearing is bad.
No. This style rear end's axle is retained by that heavy C shaped washer he removed just before pulling the axle from the housing assembly. A small amount of in and out play is normal for this style. Now on a Ford 9 inch "pig style" rear end for example, the pressed on outer axle bearing is the only thing holding the axle in place and there better be no in and out play at all.
BrokenPortriats Catching a GM rear axle outer bearing failure early will save you the cost of also having to replace that expensive axle shaft that the bearing rides on. Outer bearing failures may sound like a rumbling noise that gets louder and changes pitch with increases in vehicle speed. Vehicles that have been in floods should have their axle oils changed immediately, as rust can form within hours and damage both bearings and gears.
Yes....i have the play and the bearing grown
+BrokenPortriats Thanks for the tip!
I take it it's the same on the other side ??!!
+Larry Simmons Thanks for your question. That would be correct.
Thank yours guys video help me a lot .....thank you again
Where do I buy this tool
I missed the removal of the other wheel bearings...
ok...thank you for the confidence I suppose lol...going outside to do my 2001 s10 rear bearing now. wish me luck
ok thank you! I was able to replace the wheel bearings! no major issues. just needed up one wheel bearing because I thought my pull out tool was made to drive them in also. I went back to AutoZone to rent the actual interchangeable hammer heads and they then gave me a free bearing for my efforts. everything id back together. I would note that if your rotors are old, the parking brake gets stuck as there is about a quarter inch of the rotor that's past the parking break. So mine being semi old had bubbled up with rust on this quarter inch line that the parking brake had to go over, alot of leverage prying is the trick for me. All went back together and now the deceleration rumble from 70-60 is completely gone. ...and my backs gone lol
Quick question. Does it matter which way the bearing is installed?
I was told the bearings can only be installed one way.
+Brandon Campos Thanks for watching! It does not matter for this bearing on this application!
I have a 2000 gmc sierra 2500. It's not an HD and i have a rear seal out. I'm going to replace the bearings and race on it too. So I'm wondering a couple thing is there a seal behind where the bearing will go and also what size bearing will i need there are 2 options 9.5 and 10.5? Or how would i be able to find this out without tearing it down first?
More than likely a 9 and 1/2. The 10 and 1/2 for use on the one tons
HOW MANY BOTTLES OF GEAR OIL DID YOU USE ? because my 2004 took 3.5 bottles and after a day the same seal that i change started leaking again
Did you also change the bearings? As a loose bearing will make a new seal leak. Or was the axle damaged where the seal or bearing hits it?
How to know if you have to replace just the wheel bearing or all the differential.
Not to be negative, but I think replacing the bolts would of made sense as well.
+tymyshoes10 Thanks for the feedback!