Marklin 3030 Electric Repair and full DC Conversion
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- I've seen Marklin products now and then that I wanted to get, but the AC track requirement kept me from doing that. Then I came across this beat up old 3030 for a great price, and decided to give converting to DC a shot! And I'm glad to say it worked! :D
I had a full clip on disassembling the model, showing the AC reverse unit and other parts, but I apparently forgot to hit the record button on that one. Oh well, you can still see the rest of it and the conversion process!
By converting that to dc power you probably pissed off every marklin fan
You could actually buy marklin dc 2 rail locos which marklin sold under the hamo brand. Just provided marklin with more market appeal, same as fleischmann or roco 3 rail ac
I always enjoy the resurrections, they are impressive. The conversion from AC to DC was just phenomenal. Thanks for sharing and please keep it up.
I'm glad you like the videos! One thing I've always liked doing is taking something that doesn't work and getting it running. I think I was around 12 when I got to look through the junk drawers at the hobby store and picked out an AHM C-LINER in pieces as one of my first real projects. With a couple new brushes and some cleaning and tuning, it ran again!
@@DarthSantaFe I'd like to pick up an O scale C-Liner to decorate in Milwaukee Road livery (my brother used to work for them, so I saw them all the time when I was a teen, back in the '50s) and display. They used to run ABBA sets upgrade from the Menomonee Yard, where he worked as a switchman.
The method you used for DC conversion is genius - I never would have thought it would be possible to convert one of these to 2-rail. Very characterful little Swiss locomotive! The way the jackshaft moves is so cool
It's not Swiss, but a Swedish Da class locomotive.
@@karner9929 thank you
@@karner9929 I have one of those that I need to convert to DC (preferably DCC) so I'll have to try this.
@@karner9929thank you. Some people can't get it correct :-:
At 7:11, keep those capacitors as they prob are Ok. A capacitor will Block direct current and it did act correctly blocking DC. When running the Marklin AC train transformer , the output is alternating current. With AC going to those caps, they use those on the armature's coil to keep that current just slightly out of phase with the electromagnet's current. It optimize the N/S poles location making the motor way more efficient. Since your using permanent magnets there is no need to keep the caps anymore and for DC they only block it as you have seen.
I like the permanent magnet solution, they come with the upgrade kit, with the Marklin 3 rail track, the axels don't need any modification. Thanks for the great Video.
Nice conversion. Marklin makes really nice high quality model trains. I have a few that run flawlessly.
Märklin H0 locomotives will run happily on DC. But good luck changing direction by changing polarity. These motors are 'allstrom motors'. Changing direction invovles switching between the 'anchor' coils. These are wound in opposite directions. The switching relay changes direction by connection the 'opposite' coil. Converting to 2 rail involves isolation one wheelset from the other. Old Märklin locomotives are built like tanks. If you oil and maintain them properly, they can last almost forever. Modern Märklin locos are more fragile, but still really good. Really good job with the conversion!
Converting from AC to DC!!! Who would have ever thought? Incredible..No end to what you know .
Very clever. Easier than I thought it would be to convert.
With regard to lubricating the engine, you've over-seen the little spunges near the axel. They are meant to be filled with some oil ti ensure lubrication on a longer term.
Interesting, I’ll have to look for those.
Amazing job on the Marklin AC to DC Conversion .. Drilling out the Wheels to insulate them , I would imagine would have been the most challenging part ..
Great job .. Regards, - Anthony -
Thanks! Using a round file actually makes this easier than you'd expect. I discovered how useful it can be when I rewheeled a Rivarossi 4-6-4 a long time ago and needed to expand the axle slots while keeping them perfectly centered.
Hmm; a lathe would help. See 'Model Railway Journal' (Cygnet Magazines...) article 'A Long Overdue Package'. I notice someone mentioned having a go at 2 railing Marklin steam (would need to work better t han my touch typing today!). Probably the major difference between the coupling rodded electric and the 'standard' steam loco is the presence of cylinders and valve linkage. As I understand it, there is a need to insulate the valve gear by insulation bushings holding the crank pins. This is a pain. A better way of doing it, that is an even bigger pain, is to rim insulate the wheels. For a mate I converted a Marklin 3000 0-6-0 steamer, and it was unsatisfying. That time I did not rim insulate.
Other that that I have 2 railed some diesels, specifically the F7 and the European EMD/Nohab etc. M61. A big subject, but not as big as rim insulation. Suffice to say that I have never seen a model that runs near as well as the M61. Marklin is an addictive entity; I think of it as a prototype rather than a model. There is nothing like it.
ALL OF US: - KEEP IN MIND IN DOING ALL THIS WE ARE SHIFTING THE MECHANISM AWAY FROM THE MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATIONS. THERE IS NO SUCH THING A MODEL MECHANISM. My guess is the engineers wouldn't want to know us. When we are dead and gone, the next person to own the model might be a kid. For goodness sake be careful what we do.
Keep modelling, and stay safe.
That ran beautifully for its age and conversion.
The motor before the conversion could run on DC if connected properly, this type of motor is called universal motor because it can run on AC and DC. Before permanent magnets became cheaply available every DC motor used coils. The capacitors weren't dead, all non polar capacitors connected in series block DC and conduct AC.
I thought it might have been able to work on DC, but wasn’t sure since I couldn’t get it going. The permanent magnet did eliminate the need for an electric reverse unit though, so it is at least more efficient now if nothing else.
That was AMAZING! I have a Marklin 0-6-0 steam loco I have want to convert to DC for years but had not a clue. Now I do. Thanks. The flanges are lifting on the turnout frogs, that would be a good future project. Great stuff thanks.
You're welcome, I hope this all helps with your 0-6-0! The flanges on the 3030 here are hitting the turnouts and even some stray ballast (and I use all code 100!), so turning them down to a more reasonable size will likely be a future project.
@@DarthSantaFe Yes, I would love to see how you would turn down those flanges, do you have a lathe?
@@srenchin I do have a small one, but we'll see if that can work for these or not. I'll make a video when I figure it out. :)
Power up the locomotive and use a file on the drive wheels, and go slowly. Then you only have to put the pilot wheels on the lathe. 💙 T.E.N.
Always like your restoration videos but the DC conversion in this one s extra helpful, you may have inspired a project for me!
Wonder if Triang\Hornby axle insulators could be used? Part Nos S5065 or S8397
Nice restoration man!
How would you isolate the axles on a marklin locomotive? I have the marklin s3/6 and there would be no way to pick up + and - without shorting the circuit.
To isolate this one, I pulled the wheels off from one side, drilled the center holes a little larger and added plastic insulators.
I got the magnets and a that on there but it isn't running. Could you maybe give further help to me via email or something? I can provide pictures.
@@aydenlongbottom9795 Sure, if you send an email to darthsantafe@gmail.com with the photos of what you have, I'll see what I can figure out to help!
When I saw it running on your layout, I suddenly wondered: "Does it give off a faint whiff of ozone, Darth? (I started in the '40s-early '50s with Lionel O and American Flyer S and I can still conjure up that aroma of electrical sparks and hot oil!) BTW, I haven't been able to log onto the MR Forums since last June---and of course, MR is absolutely no help on telling me why their software doesn't recognize my password or allow me to change it. Wish they'd get a guru---or a Catholic priest!---to exorcise the demons!) OT Dean
No ozone smell, but that's because I cleaned all the wheels and other parts before running it. :)
I managed to keep my MR forum account somehow, and couldn't log in either for a while. I ended up making a new account to direct message the moderators instead of going to MRR support, and was eventually able to get things working again. Others gave up on their old accounts and started new ones.
@@DarthSantaFe Nice to know of your experience, as I've been thinking maybe tstage (Steven Otte?) might be a better bet than others on the MR staff. Whatever I tried to get back on---"Forgot my password," re-registering, changing my password---nothing worked. The first two wanted to know my Model Railroader _Customer Number (don't have one, as I can't subscribe [no room!]) and/or tells me they already have my email registered(!) and so they won't do it. I can't change my password because their software doesn't recognize the one I've been using since 2014 (Google Chrome saved it, so I know it's the right one). I feel as thought I've been caught in a revolving door since last June! BTW, I'm currently working on an O scale old-time Mogul, building the frame and other running gear to go under a beautiful B&M B15 Mogul boiler built by the late Henry Pearce, who used to manufacture and sell things under the Pearce Tool name. Good luck---and stay safe.
I don’t know if you removed the reversing relay before trying the magnets? If another hobbyist wants to do the same conversion and does not know Märklin he will be very confused to find another large component with several wires an a special designed relay installed in addition to the version you stared with. The conversion you did was great. BTW the loco is a Swedish States Railway DA type. I believe Märklin still makes them.
I did try to get it working with the original system, but it wouldn’t start no matter what I tried. The video of that whole section didn’t record. :(
ooo thats a model of a Swedish SJ's DA locomotive :)
Hello Darth! Haven't seen an upload in a little bit. Hope everything is alright and can't wait to see what's next!
Hi! I've had a lot of housework and other projects to take care of lately, but things are getting caught up and I'm hoping to get back onto the videos soon!
@@DarthSantaFe Will be waiting! I've been watching your channel for years now and still get excited by the upload notifications!
@@varrunningtrains4112 Thanks for watching for so long! I'm glad you like my videos and projects!
Can you please share the size of the 4 magnets you used. (I have tried with smaller ones without success ... and with a huge one with success (but then I cannot close the loc ;-) )
I used 4 of these magnets here: www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B662-N52
The N52 grade costs more than the also available N42 (which would've also done well), but it's also quite a bit stronger and further increases the torque and efficiency of the motor.
Hello, I'm trying to convert a steam engine. Would it be done in the same way? What were the magnets you used? Cheers Kyra
I think the steam engine motors are built the same way, so the conversion should be similar. I can’t remember what size magnets I used (maybe 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/8”), but I’ll see if I can look that up later.
Mayb you can show how to digitalizing it to, thx!
Marklin made Clockwork and live steam locomotive before they got into toy trains. They invented the three rail track system that others adopted they still have three rail AC today but the track is not the same. I think the middle real got replaced by studs that are less visible. I could be wrong I am not fully first on marklin train but I do know where it during World War II they were allowed to continue production of trains and not contribute to the war effort somebody was a model train buff
Hermann Göring was a train nut.
@@Jeppe-Covid1959 I have an issue of Model Railroader magazine from 1947 and it had a small article. It said these are the most infamous toy trains in the world because they belong to Hermann Goering.
Marklin now produce conversion kits for quite a lot of their locomotives which have permanent magnets in them ( they are usually for use with the current version of Marklin Digital) the relay reversing unit was missing from that locomotive when you opened it up. Did you remove it or was it missing? Marklin also used to produce DC locomotives under the Hamo overprint. Now that Marklin own Trix they don’t use the Hamo brand prefix anymore.
The relay/reverse circuit was in there, and I thought I had recorded it all, but must have missed pressing the record button.
That is nice that they’re making some conversion kits! For older ones like this though, all you can really do is improvise. :)
Hi,
I've an Old Marklin too .... How to find the Model No? It works on AC ....
I wish I could help you there, but I'm not too familiar with most of the European models. I know there are a lot of Marklin collectors out there, so I'm sure there's someone around who'll be able to help!
Nice job, but have question. I think märklin engines runs on both AC and DC? That you can ran the engine/motor with that magnet in DC currency. Regards from Sweden 🇸🇪
I think you’re right about that. Mine wasn’t working at all though, so I decided to convert it to a full DC motor since the armature was good. This is actually more power efficient for DC operation anyway since there isn’t an additional electromagnet using power.
Super. 💙 T.E.N.
You can actually keep the electro magnet and use 2 diodes to make the direction switch.
I figured that might be possible, but the electromagnet was using a lot of power, so the neodymium magnets made it quite a bit more efficient.
@@DarthSantaFe Yes, a Electromagnet is just a big resistor, its just im very used to using diods for this, especially to convert Märklin's 66 to 70 locos, thats because märklin used both AC and DC to power the models in the 30's and i want to keep the models as original as possible.
Technically it should have run on DC without removing the motor electric magnet. The only problem I could see when you opened it up was the reversing mechanism was missing.
That was actually all there (I forgot to hit the record button), but it wasn’t working at all when I tested it, so I took the AC reverse mechanism out and put in the permanent magnet to simplify it.
There are DC convertion kits for Märklin, alternatively Märklin's Hamo brand is for DC models.
The DC conversion kits unfortunately don't cover all the different models, and they only change the motor from AC to DC. For 2-rail operation, you also have to insulate the wheels on one side like I did for this one.
@@DarthSantaFe yea of cause you still need to drill out the wheels.
@@justaboringjoha3678 hamo is actually 2 rail, marklin supplied them from factory to customers that had maybe a fleischmann layout and wanted to run marklin equipment. Fleischmann for example also supplied ac 3 rail
@@DarthSantaFe just FYI, the marklin hamo was factory built 2 rail dc. They just supplied some of their more popular locos for a wider crowd, and e.g fleischmann provided ac 3 rail.
Funny thing of course, the marklin AC runs fine on DC as is, just being field wound you can't change direction.
Btw, great you were saying about the quality: we get a bit lost nowadays associated quality with detail and realism, whereas your statement holds true...
@@muir8009 I know, I am a Märklin fan and my grandfather had Fleischmann and Hamo, he would rebuild from märklin to hamo all the time, since he was a train shop owner and could get original Hamo parts directly from Märklin.
Can you do a video on how to spot a AC or DC running train? I ask because i get some older trains like you. But i never heard of a AC running train besides the old Thomas and freinds models before cgi and now this one tho its now DC. Lol
As far as I know, the AC trains all have a big pickup shoe in the middle, so if you see that, it's AC. If there's no shoe, you can assume it's DC. :)
@@DarthSantaFe ok! thank you!. Now i know how to change a AC train into a DC train and how to spot one. ^_^ thanks again. This brings more fun to the hobby. Lol
What huge flanges you have, grandmom!
Swedish State Railways (Statens Järnvägar - SJ) class Da.
Thanks for the info!