I think Peter did a great job. Everybody ALWAYS struggles when learning how to first solder. The important thing is Mike is teaching him the correct way and you can tell Mike really is a great teacher. And Peter is trying his best and thats what matters. Great learning experience!!!
I love soldering, Peter did good, practice makes perfect! A lot of the industry is going towards propress, no hot work permit, fire extinguisher, fire watch no smoke alarms going off. I was an apprentice myself. keep up the great work guys! I used to use a Kevlar mat against a wall to prevent scorching the wall.
Good Job Mikey Pipes and Peter Piper. Speaking of hacks bring me stacks, a good drywaller would have stacks fixing that hack job. Corners are tricky but even a decent DIY’er wouldn’t butcher it that bad.
Hello Mike, A shoutout to your viewers that are military veterans. Happy Marine Corps birthday, Nov 10th and Happy Veteran's Day, Nov 11th. Have a great holiday weekend.
Live in long island as well. Very good to see how you have an apprentice and are taking the time to work with him . Dont see that often. Also showing that even a professional has to deal with issues and snags along the way. If everything was easy, everyone could do it. Thanks for the videos!
A nice chair in that corner with a side table and it will look great Mike. Torch plumbing is becoming a lost art Mike, good you teach Peter the work of the old pros. Good job Peter 👍👍🇨🇦
Armchair Plumber reporting for duty! I will always do a 30 degree downturn on my baseboards from now on! Let Peter know I want some of his Texas T fittings!!
I've used a grinder/cutoff wheel, metal circular saw with carbide tooth blade, sawzall, jig saw and table type band saw, tin snips. usually the grinder or metal circular saw works best, just have to not overheat the metal and burn finish off and dress edges with file or grinder, sharp burrs suck.
From the front row of the criticism section... LOL I am glad we have forced air furnaces. Simple vents and not carrying water around, just waiting for the leak that might happen... 🤠👍 So I do have a question for us people that aren't in the north east part of the country. Do you use anti-freeze in the systems ever? With power outages during winter storms and all, just wondering if that becomes and issue, especially in older homes that lack insulation all together or minimal insulation. Being in North Texas we get our share of freezing temps and snow, but in a day or two its all melted normally. In the winter storm of 2021, when many areas were without power for up to 7 days, plumbers and landscapers were just printing money here. Because we have no freeze line mandates, everything was freezing solid. Oh and the new thing is to install gas tankless water heaters OUTSIDE now on the side of the house, those don't work so well without power and -2F environment. Nobody drains their sprinkler systems in their yards, so yea, that was a mess as well for the landscapers when everything was iced in for a week. Being from up north I always drain and winterize mine system outside. That was a big savings on our part. Here we are in the end of 2023 now and people are still getting their homes fixed from that winter storm.
We used Intertherm Heaters back in the Day to help Heat Rooms. They were powered by Electricity and you were Smart to place on their own circuit breaker.
Resistance electric is dead! Boomers used them when god gave them free electricity but nowadays we know better! There's heat all around us, we just have to pump it to where we need it!
Nice job guys. I think peter pipes should solder all connections from here out. Only way is field experience. Might i suggest peter, look at the joint you have to solder like a clock face, i would start your heat at 6-9 o clock, once hot enough move away, solder from 9 to 6 only using a quarter of the solder needed for whole joint, then bring back heat from 6 to 3, pull heat away again once hot, add solder from 6 to 3, again, just enough for that quadrant , and finish the top two quadrants the same as the bottom. Working from the bottom up will create a solid base of solder on the bottom half of the joint for the top half to sit on. This keeps an excess solder from dripping out of the bottom. You should roughly be using 3/4"of solder on 3/4" pipe, so keep that in mind as you solder each quarter, all you need is a quick swipe with the solder, 6 to 9 or 9 to 6 doesn't matter. Hit it and move on. Whole joint including heating shouldn't take more than 30 to 50 seconds. Unless of course your doing bigger stuff.
Mikey teach Peter right start at the lowest fitting work his way up much less likely to burn upper fittings they'll already be hot enough to solder. You know Mikey.
I don't know how I'd do any better on the crooked wall situation, you did your best and got as much heating performance as was really possible without making it hideous. I'm just mildly incredulous that they couldn't fix the wavy wall curing the construction.
definitely better ro run copper along the top of the element. ive seen quite a few customers complain because someone ran red pex along the top. and when the louvers are open they can see the red pex...it bothers them 😂😂
that's where it's designed to be ran on slantfin brand, hence the half moon notches on the top braces. made for a 180 return u-bend to fit perfectly with clearance. running pex in there would be very dumb, lol, but I can see clowns doing that.
Remember the good old Prestolite torches. In some respects it made soft soldering smoother because you could control the flame and therefore the temperature. Turbo torches can't be turned down unless you want to melt the tip of the torch.
Out of curiosity why not use press? I know you like propress so I'm curious. When I use it for baseboard, the only thing I don't like is the longer sweeps of press 90s. Makes running the returns over the top harder. They almost don't fit. Great video Mike!
I am not a radiant heat guy. Out of curiosity why would you have used a tee for the supply and then another tee for the return. Allowing the same temperature water to flow equally on both sides of the room. The way it is piped now the upstream radiator would warmer cause one side of the room to be warmer than the other. Or do they not lower the water temperature enough to make a difference?
any change of length, different fittings, side of tee versus straight of tee would make the flow imbalanced from mild to greatly. not to mention there's be almost no way to purge air from the boiler side purge stations and you'd need bleeders at the emitters. in other words, never do something like that, unless it's using special monoflow tees on a big loop system(not often used without cast irons emitters and short sections).
@@throttlebottle5906 I guess I am referencing larger loop systems. I am a chilled water guy on largest tonnage buildings. It is very common to see header type systems. Air is difficult to get out but air bleeder valves auto bleeders are common. Is it common to have zoned system with tsat for each zone or just one stat for the entire system?
That soldering was pretty painful to watch for sure, but you can only learn so much from watching. You should try using a soft flame torch instead of the turbo torch. Way more control of heat and a much better joint in my opinion. Solder 4 " and under on a regular basis and never use turbo.
just cut and add a straight connector at the wall high point to allow baseboard to run closer to flush at the large gap to right. on the left side, just end that one a shorter. the narrower gaps can just be caulked. alternate if you're into carpentry, taper cut some wood to fill the void and look flat.(needs caulked, painted, etc.). the wood would be no big deal for me, but I don't paint and that would be on them. 🤪 I do more general contracting, custom fitting work and problem solving. I can see where/why you wouldn't do that type of stuff as dedicated heating/air/plumbing only. 😉
Back when I was in high school going to the skill center I asked the plumbers for advice they gave me some flux and solder a bunch of scrap pipe and fittings told me to unsolder and clean than resolder. It worked I'm no plumber iwas a spark I can do it to save my ass but thts about how I wld rate my exp.
Applies to welding with 15%+ silver solder (or any silver solder for that matter) You dont want to get the copper cherry red because the high heat can actually burn out the silver making a much weaker and more likely to leak joint. Silver melts away @ 1763°F and copper @ 1980°F A lot of failed welds are simply down to over heating!
OK boilers are more efficient than a furnace however watching all those pipes and valves and water/steam scares me and id much preferer forced hot air and a furnace like I had growing up in Massachusetts.
You should let peter sweat all fittings to give him the practice, throw away the pro press for a while even though sweating is a little slower you can not beat the knowledge of knowing how to sweat . Pro press is for minimum wage helpers.
Watching Mikey pipes actually work on pipe is hilarious 🤣🤣
You should make a shop video of teaching Peter how to solder would be an enjoyable watch 👍🏼 looks like he did pretty good for his first time.
I think Peter did a great job. Everybody ALWAYS struggles when learning how to first solder. The important thing is Mike is teaching him the correct way and you can tell Mike really is a great teacher. And Peter is trying his best and thats what matters. Great learning experience!!!
I love soldering, Peter did good, practice makes perfect! A lot of the industry is going towards propress, no hot work permit, fire extinguisher, fire watch no smoke alarms going off. I was an apprentice myself. keep up the great work guys! I used to use a Kevlar mat against a wall to prevent scorching the wall.
Bless you for your patience working with Peter. Once he gets his confidence level up he'll be a star.
I know he will be.
He wants to be good at it... most times, that's all it takes. He'll get it.
You have patience of a saint but thats the only way he's gonna learn.
Good Job Mikey Pipes and Peter Piper.
Speaking of hacks bring me stacks, a good drywaller would have stacks fixing that hack job. Corners are tricky but even a decent DIY’er wouldn’t butcher it that bad.
My god i noticed that. Butchered cutouts and everything.
I have this problem and bugs are coming in! What would you recommend to fix it?
Hello Mike, A shoutout to your viewers that are military veterans. Happy Marine Corps birthday, Nov 10th and Happy Veteran's Day, Nov 11th. Have a great holiday weekend.
Nice to see your patience with Peter. I worked for a guy who said - see one, due one, teach one!
Good job Peter. Solder is the way to go. Forget that press stuff lol
Peter is getting better keep em don’t let him go
I was also taught to use flux on the fitting after I was done. Great solution for the crooked wall looks really nice
Live in long island as well. Very good to see how you have an apprentice and are taking the time to work with him . Dont see that often. Also showing that even a professional has to deal with issues and snags along the way. If everything was easy, everyone could do it. Thanks for the videos!
Thanks for sharing
A nice chair in that corner with a side table and it will look great Mike. Torch plumbing is becoming a lost art Mike, good you teach Peter the work of the old pros. Good job Peter 👍👍🇨🇦
Thank you for sharing. I have learned so much! My water lines are lying on the floor. Now I have an idea how to correct it. Of course I will hire pro!
Glad it was helpful!
Armchair Plumber reporting for duty! I will always do a 30 degree downturn on my baseboards from now on! Let Peter know I want some of his Texas T fittings!!
It's bad ass you are teaching the next generation!
I have found the best way to cut that baseboard backing is with a angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel
I've used a grinder/cutoff wheel, metal circular saw with carbide tooth blade, sawzall, jig saw and table type band saw, tin snips.
usually the grinder or metal circular saw works best, just have to not overheat the metal and burn finish off and dress edges with file or grinder, sharp burrs suck.
Great Job Mikey Pipes and Peter Pipes.
Thanks again
Good Job, Peter
Steve lav and Miss Molly are very proud that you decided to sweat this instead of using pro press
Good job Peter and Mikey
i used to practice on scrap pipe, awesome job as usual
Good job Mike 😊 I always use flux rite at the end of the soldering process 😊
Good stuff!
@PipeDoctor yess I like using my acyteylene!!! Unfourtnetly with the r32 and r454b coming out refrigerant is mildly flammable sadly
Keep it up Peter always be learning
From the front row of the criticism section... LOL I am glad we have forced air furnaces. Simple vents and not carrying water around, just waiting for the leak that might happen... 🤠👍 So I do have a question for us people that aren't in the north east part of the country. Do you use anti-freeze in the systems ever? With power outages during winter storms and all, just wondering if that becomes and issue, especially in older homes that lack insulation all together or minimal insulation. Being in North Texas we get our share of freezing temps and snow, but in a day or two its all melted normally. In the winter storm of 2021, when many areas were without power for up to 7 days, plumbers and landscapers were just printing money here. Because we have no freeze line mandates, everything was freezing solid. Oh and the new thing is to install gas tankless water heaters OUTSIDE now on the side of the house, those don't work so well without power and -2F environment. Nobody drains their sprinkler systems in their yards, so yea, that was a mess as well for the landscapers when everything was iced in for a week. Being from up north I always drain and winterize mine system outside. That was a big savings on our part. Here we are in the end of 2023 now and people are still getting their homes fixed from that winter storm.
Mike great video as always, very informative, is there anyway viewers can purchase individual videos from you.
We used Intertherm Heaters back in the Day to help Heat Rooms. They were powered by Electricity and you were Smart to place on their own circuit breaker.
Resistance electric is dead! Boomers used them when god gave them free electricity but nowadays we know better! There's heat all around us, we just have to pump it to where we need it!
Nice job guys. I think peter pipes should solder all connections from here out. Only way is field experience. Might i suggest peter, look at the joint you have to solder like a clock face, i would start your heat at 6-9 o clock, once hot enough move away, solder from 9 to 6 only using a quarter of the solder needed for whole joint, then bring back heat from 6 to 3, pull heat away again once hot, add solder from 6 to 3, again, just enough for that quadrant , and finish the top two quadrants the same as the bottom. Working from the bottom up will create a solid base of solder on the bottom half of the joint for the top half to sit on. This keeps an excess solder from dripping out of the bottom. You should roughly be using 3/4"of solder on 3/4" pipe, so keep that in mind as you solder each quarter, all you need is a quick swipe with the solder, 6 to 9 or 9 to 6 doesn't matter. Hit it and move on. Whole joint including heating shouldn't take more than 30 to 50 seconds. Unless of course your doing bigger stuff.
My tu sense a couple of the fittings could’ve been done off the wall, maybe ! Nice going Peter.
Capillary action on that invert weld 👌
Awesome to see peter doing it! Good work Mike.
Good work and all caught on film
He did good for first time!!!!
This was a really good one, Mikey. I plan to get some pipe and learn this soon. Its been about 30 years since Ive sweat pipe.
Good job Mike and Peter.
A little tech tip,take a cut off from the baseboard cabinet,use it to protect the floor,and wall from solder drips and scortch marks!!
Great work as always, Mikey and Peter!
Looks fine. But I think the 3 piece baseboard couplings look better.
Nice job. Couldn’t you cut the baseboard and put a coupling with another piece to straighten it out on the wall?
I was taught that also by a fitter on a job once, to flux after. It cleans the joint up nice and shiny, basically what it does on the inside.😅
Good job Peter!!!
Mikey teach Peter right start at the lowest fitting work his way up much less likely to burn upper fittings they'll already be hot enough to solder. You know Mikey.
When did they change from three piece couplings to 1
I don't know how I'd do any better on the crooked wall situation, you did your best and got as much heating performance as was really possible without making it hideous. I'm just mildly incredulous that they couldn't fix the wavy wall curing the construction.
Very very nice job❤
definitely better ro run copper along the top of the element. ive seen quite a few customers complain because someone ran red pex along the top. and when the louvers are open they can see the red pex...it bothers them 😂😂
that's where it's designed to be ran on slantfin brand, hence the half moon notches on the top braces. made for a 180 return u-bend to fit perfectly with clearance.
running pex in there would be very dumb, lol, but I can see clowns doing that.
Got to try and try and try.
Hey Mike did you hear about the six million Dollar toilet that got stolen? It would make a great video here in your thoughts on that
Remember the good old Prestolite torches. In some respects it made soft soldering smoother because you could control the flame and therefore the temperature. Turbo torches can't be turned down unless you want to melt the tip of the torch.
You can use press on baseboard they make brass inserts for the super thin copper. If this was mentioned sorry I didn’t watch the whole video.
It’s all good. Webstone makes stiffeners
Very nice work guys!!
Hey peter of mikey pipes. No ? Holy dog shit, Batman, OSHA is watching the podcast again. Lol
Soldering with a pound of gold. Yea boy. 😂
One question why not use the ProPress not enough room or it's no good to use on baseboard
Out of curiosity why not use press? I know you like propress so I'm curious. When I use it for baseboard, the only thing I don't like is the longer sweeps of press 90s. Makes running the returns over the top harder. They almost don't fit. Great video Mike!
I wanted to break out the b-tank and solder
You gotta teach your apprentice the basics.
Can't beat cast iron baseboard. If affordable.
I think the words your looking for for the solder uphill flow is capillary attraction.
Close. Capillary Action I believe.
I am not a radiant heat guy. Out of curiosity why would you have used a tee for the supply and then another tee for the return. Allowing the same temperature water to flow equally on both sides of the room. The way it is piped now the upstream radiator would warmer cause one side of the room to be warmer than the other. Or do they not lower the water temperature enough to make a difference?
any change of length, different fittings, side of tee versus straight of tee would make the flow imbalanced from mild to greatly. not to mention there's be almost no way to purge air from the boiler side purge stations and you'd need bleeders at the emitters. in other words, never do something like that, unless it's using special monoflow tees on a big loop system(not often used without cast irons emitters and short sections).
@@throttlebottle5906 I guess I am referencing larger loop systems. I am a chilled water guy on largest tonnage buildings. It is very common to see header type systems. Air is difficult to get out but air bleeder valves auto bleeders are common. Is it common to have zoned system with tsat for each zone or just one stat for the entire system?
Jose still part of the Doctor Family?
That soldering was pretty painful to watch for sure, but you can only learn so much from watching. You should try using a soft flame torch instead of the turbo torch. Way more control of heat and a much better joint in my opinion. Solder 4 " and under on a regular basis and never use turbo.
Just needs practice. Like us all.
just cut and add a straight connector at the wall high point to allow baseboard to run closer to flush at the large gap to right. on the left side, just end that one a shorter. the narrower gaps can just be caulked.
alternate if you're into carpentry, taper cut some wood to fill the void and look flat.(needs caulked, painted, etc.).
the wood would be no big deal for me, but I don't paint and that would be on them. 🤪 I do more general contracting, custom fitting work and problem solving. I can see where/why you wouldn't do that type of stuff as dedicated heating/air/plumbing only. 😉
Food for thought. Next time.
Hey Mikey, why not propress here?
Pipes how do you soder so close to the wall and not burn the place down?
Propress with pipe sleeves is how I rolI except for the loop 90s. I must be getting lazy
Copper pipe will be your butu lose as will give heat as well
Back when I was in high school going to the skill center I asked the plumbers for advice they gave me some flux and solder a bunch of scrap pipe and fittings told me to unsolder and clean than resolder. It worked I'm no plumber iwas a spark I can do it to save my ass but thts about how I wld rate my exp.
Wipe. Rinse. Repeat.
@@PipeDoctor practice makes it hold water eventually for everything else shark bites lol
Just curiosity what's your travel charge to Astoria?
Is it necessary to support the line returning across the top of the element? If so, what do you use? Thanks!
No need
Nice install. Not allowed electrical outlets above heaters. Cords can overheat. Move to open areas on each end. Electrician's problem.
hydronic (water) heat. receptacles okay.
Soo does it matter which is the return or feed?
No
Solder is tricky
That extra 20 won’t even be noticeable when there’s stuff in the room
Armchair plumbers that do this for a living in their parents basement. 😂 that was great! Nice job as always
Thanks! 👍
Excellent job guys! 👍👍
Applies to welding with 15%+ silver solder (or any silver solder for that matter)
You dont want to get the copper cherry red because the high heat can actually burn out the silver making a much weaker and more likely to leak joint. Silver melts away @ 1763°F and copper @ 1980°F
A lot of failed welds are simply down to over heating!
I don't think to many plumbers are using 15% silver on copper. That shit is expensive.
@@mitchdenner9743 more applies to refrigeration but yes it is!
@JesseDoesHVAC besides, if your copper is cherry red, your brazing not soldering.
That outside corner could have a piece of baseboard and an outside corner cap instead of exposed pipes.
Capillary action
👍🏻👍🏻
What no bleeder on the 90 ?
They need a new drywaller who can hang a wall square
Yup 👍
😊teach him well so he's a star on the next better paying job.hahahahahah😊😊😊😊
OK boilers are more efficient than a furnace however watching all those pipes and valves and water/steam scares me and id much preferer forced hot air and a furnace like I had growing up in Massachusetts.
that was torture watching Peter with torch *facepalm*
Peter propress has some heavy breathing going on at 22:00
Yup 👍
Doctor moe, doctor larry, doctor cruly please answer the telephone.
You should let peter sweat all fittings to give him the practice, throw away the pro press for a while even though sweating is a little slower you can not beat the knowledge of knowing how to sweat . Pro press is for minimum wage helpers.
Thanks for the feedback
Who is the electrician that installed one duplex receptacle correct and two upside down 😂
Definitely didn’t hit that stud.
Any plumber knows…. Installing baseboard blows. Easily my most hated part of the trade
sorry bro that was painful to watch. he needs a lot more practice on some scrap stuff