Thats One Hell of an Install for a Hot Tub
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- Опубликовано: 6 янв 2021
- @GSHElectrical @efixx
After a call out over Christmas I Am back to rectify the issues. In this video we install a new supply for the lazy spar due to a very poor installation carried out in the summer. We also replace the consumer unit due to a sticking RCD and carried out fault finding repairs
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Please watch: "REDOING WORK TRADIFY"
• I Can't Stand Redoing ...
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Хобби
Very tidy board! I like fusebox too they are nice to work with. Thanks for the video
Nice neat installation and thoughtful arrangements for the future.
Thanks for the video. Stay safe.
Happy new year Mike! All the best keep the videos coming 👍
Strip back and resleeve or heat shrink and tape back outer cable or heat shrink another layer of insulation. If using a heat shrink or tape with a CE mark or listed and rated tape rated for temp, humidity range. Wago box just for that small damage is a little OTT and is it still accessible. Either way testing to ensure the fix works and is robust is going to be key.
Thanks for showing this nothing amateur about this fix. These are real world problems in real situations. I am so glad you showed this I bet many would not have real kudos to you for that. Happy New Year to the team keep doing the breathing exercises will help with stress and keep the humour going with the team.
You were bang on with your fix.
Thanks buddy 👍👍👍
Nice vid brother 👌🏼
For the damaged cable outer sheath I'd probably use adhesive-lined heatshrink sleeve.
Was about to say the same thing 👍
Yes was thinking the same!
I enjoyed the video
When I did my pond the electrician I got advice from also said spade depth was fine for armoured. No reason to doubt him, and I hope it's right cos I really don't want to dig it all up again ;)
I would have put a bit of heat shrink over the damaged cable 🤷♂️
Probably stripped back the outer sheath, put some smaller heatshrink over the damaged core, then get the outer sheath back on as best as I could and follow up with another layer of heatshrink. For even more protection a bit of steel capping over the whole lot and Bob's your uncle.
Great vid
Great video 😎
If the original installer had of tested their work they’d have found the failure on the IR test. Wonder if the homeowner even got given a cert for it. Nice vid though mate
No certificate and definitely no testing what so ever 👍
@@GreenHawkConstructionltd standard response down here dude, no certs, cant get hold of the guy when something goes wrong. :(
You didn't say what size the SWA cable was but it's got to be 1.5mm , so fed from a spur at 13 amp is fine . The nicked cable you could have put a bit of flex conduit over it . What earthing system is employed for the hot tub ?? I am assuming you are using the supply earth and not a rod etc
Was one of the main faults the Ducks near the c/u?
IN SOME CASES WHEN BURYING CABLE -YOU COULD PUT A TUNNEL BRICK MARKED AS DANGER "ELECT"CABLE THEN BACK FILL;
I've only seen tunnel brick over mains cable. Never on SWA in the back garden. Is that a regional thing?
@@Brown969 just to say yes could be classed as regional -its mainly for safety if anybody digs in this area also it protects you from being sued if you do not take reasonable steps because you installed the cable ;
@@malcolmcroll I'd probably use regular building bricks 10 cms or so above the actual cable and then warning tape above the bricks. I learned that trick from watching GPO workers burying new phone lines back in the old days!
@@Ragnar8504 yes its another safe way to do it that way -i just remembered when watching your video i recall a person who sued because he did not take reasonable steps to prevent a person getting a shock ;
I want to run a new cable for external socket for decking lights and possibly a hot tub at some point. Would a 4mm 3 core armoured cable be sufficient?
I would heat shrink it
Table 4d4a gives us 21A for a 1.5mm SWA. Once you've factored 433.1.1(iii) in, a 13A BS1362 fuse will protect a cable rated at 18A. So how is the cable underrated?
For the load maybe but then even a larger SWA wouldn't help since it'd still be connected to a 13A fuse in the FCU.
@@Ragnar8504 he installed another FCU for the new cable, so you would hope that the intended load was
@@andrewcadby Yes, that's why I can't see how the old SWA could have been undersized!
It’s not undersized at all 👍
You are missing the fire barrier or fire putty in the back of the fuse box as you have come in the back of the board and it looks like a cavity wall a cordon to BS 7671:2018 Regulations 527.2 and 527.2.1 a part from that nice job
It's unlikely he has breached a fire barrier here, so no sealing necessary
@@andrewcadby read the regs
@@iandrew6347
527.2.1
Where a wiring system passes through elements of building construction such as floors, walls, roofs, ceilings, partitions or cavity barriers, the openings remaining after passage of the wiring system shall be sealed according to the degree of fire-resistance (if any) prescribed for the respective element of building construction
before penetration.
In a property such as the one in this video, it is unlikely that the building is divided up into separate fire compartments, so I doubt the plasterboard the cables are passing through is a fire barrier, especially as they are existing cables following their existing route.
If a dry lining box was sunk into a stud wall, you wouldn't start filling it with intumescent pads would you? Unless, of course, it penetrated a fire barrier.
And before you mention sealing the consumer unit to contain a fire, the only requirements are that it is manufactured from a non combustible material (421.1.201), and that the IP rating is maintained. There is no requirement to use intumescent glands, pads, sealant and so on.
So perhaps, Ian, it is you who should read the regs.
Andrew is right. No fire barrier has been broken.
@@ToffeenoseToffee screw balls the lot of you
2:05 If the cable CSA is too small, we say it's over-rated, rather than under-rated. When we de-rate cables e.g. when running through insulation, we increase the CSA.
Nice job with the labelled Wagobox enclosing the damaged cable.
I bet someone wasn’t experience enough whoever wired it the first place. I’m curious does the UK have an electrical code that has to be followed
Yes, BS7671. This standard is about £70 to buy the book and unfortunately it's complicated... It's not law, but if you cause injury or death then you can can guarantee that the Health and Safety Executive will be testing your work against the standard.
O ok good to know
That single module surge device isn’t really an improvement on the old 2 pole version.....because the old version didn’t require an MCB, whereas the single pole module does. Either method takes up 2 modules!
In the situation of the damaged cable could you not consider moving the socket up the wall and having the damaged cable in the socket back box. Explain to the home owner that would be the best option.
Yes I thought about it but it’s completely on show as you walk in from the kitchen door and I thought it might look odd. But still a good option 👍
9:51 just add a double socket a bit higher up and do the join in there, you can never have to many sockets in a living room. or just as you did as you the expert not me lol.
Why would you not have sunk the spur in above then no damage to wall and cable would be inside accessible enclosure that wago box is madness
@@Th-wf3lm yeah i agree, i just re-watched and thought the damage was further back, i guess being there you get a much better idea of what you have to play with.
Heat shrink.
Awesome 😍💋 💝💖♥️❤️
First 💪
Not much of a reason to change a board? You could of changed the RCD, seem to be mugging the client off here
Did he mention the make of the old board? I had assumed it was because that manufacturer was discontinued and couldn't find a replacement RCD?? Or that the board was not fire rated and along an escape route? Either way, the installation is better for the new board.
@@Brown969 well said matey 👍👍
@Dusty 99 it’s doesn’t make a difference? Who are you?
ERM
heatshrink sleeve.