Hi Lee, I thought the comment on sealant was great as well. Just used some for issues I had on my 36 Pontiac Rochester carb, it worked wonders!! Have a great day!!😎
And this is why I enjoy the channel. Basic info on things to look for when building vintage stuff. The metal working videos are fascinating to me and really enjoy when you and Mike do clean outs and buy stuff and the discoveries you share. Greatly appreciated, thanks.
Hylomar, developed for Rolls Royce jet engines. The single biggest gift to mechanics. Polymer sealant, fuel and chemical proof, stays tacky forever, easily removable, I’ve long term sealed incredible gaps in cases from pry damage when the only other solution was replacement. Will never use another sealant, for any application. Available in tubes, and the spray is perfect for the paper gaskets that Matt mentioned. Another incredible product that I always keep on my bench and in my tool box is Gel Lube from Valco Cincinnati, great assembly lube and just general lubricant. Sprays as a liquid and then gels and stays put.
I’m with you 💯 % regarding Hylomar, it does exactly what it says on the tube, spray can. I’m not conversant with the other product, but then I live in the U.K. and don’t recall ever seeing it.
Matt, tx for the timely and well done article about carb leak. I recalled a problem that plagued me years ago when the leak between top cover and carb bottom was not due to bad gasket or warped/deformed mating surface. At two places the perimeter screws felt torqued enuff but at one hole the screw was incorrect at 0.080” too long , or the tapped hole 0.080 too shallow. The second hole had a small piece of crud in the bottom which prevented the screw From compressing the gasket enough to make proper seal. I shortened first screw and flushed second hole so top was held tight against perimeter gasket by ALL the screws. You provide a great service to us in the hot rod community, Thanks, John
Good additional tip! Yea those screw holes for the top need to have good threads and ends clean! Thanks for giving your experience too; these comments are helpful as well!
Suggestion - mount a camera at the bench with a white background when you want to show/compare small parts/components. You can focus and zoom to better show them. Thanks for such an important topic.
Good video. I have found a couple of things with old carbies that are a common problem. 1. Dirty fuel. If your fuel tank is full of rust and all old fuel tanks are then you must remove it acid treat it neutralise and 'recoat. I use Redcoat which must be applied to clean dry hot warm metal 2. Old carby mating faces are often warped. I use a new fine stone and hand lap them to make surfaces perfectly flat. 3. Many modern gaskets are too thin 4 jets especially idle can easily be blocked or damaged or wrong. Your comments re power valve are relevant too. Bent or stuck or incorrectly set. And final fine tuning will vary depending on the vehicle it's engine, car weight and where you want the power valve to operate to get best power running economy balance ie not too rich or lean at wrong RPM which will be linked to load and driveability. 5. I find it easier to set up strombergs especially where you have multiples is to do it on the bench so everything is exactly the same. Parts scavenging is common especially if you are running rarer versions. Cheers
You barely mentioned it but a huge problem is excessive fuel pressure!!! Those old carbs use very little fuel pressure compared to a more modern holley or quadrant carb. Electric fuel pumps and poorly designed fuel systems and regulator placement and adjustment compound the fuel pressure issue. Old carb kits typically belong in the trash! Gaskets dry out and shrink, rubber components and accelerator pumps dry out and become useless.
Excess fuel pressure not only causes leaks it also causes rough running as excess makes the whole carb rich. Any 2 bbl Stromberg is max 4 psi. In reality 3lb is best. Though IF fuel pressure goes lower it will lean out and possibly damage the engine. 3 carbs on a std pump may have a volume issue. I have seen it a few times though have run 3 carbs on a factory pump with no issues. But very close to a problem! Fuel plumbing is important. All bends should be large smooth constant radius, Heaps of sharp 90s and 'adapters' will cause issues. For any modified engine 3/8 is fine on petrol. 6 or V8. [1/2" alcohol] From a fuel block to carbs 5/16 is the go. And remember all those dumb shiny fittings often reduce that to under 1/4". Sometimes as small as 1/8" So stop and THINK and LOOK at this stuff.
To check float valve sealing at the bench hang a temporary tank up high. Fluid head pressure is approximately 1/2 pound per foot of elevation. So if you're running four pounds of pressure at the pump hang the temp tank eight feet above the valve seat on the bench.
A simple flat surface is a piece of glass. Place sandpaper on it and spray with wd40. Works great. Dress the well plug surface with a small flat file. Also make sure the base is flat.
you check a brass float by filling a glass with boiling water, then hold the float down in the water with pliers, the hot water causes the air inside the float to expand and you will see a stream of bubbles, to remove any liquid from inside the float, once you find the hole, start with a cold float, hold the float with the hole pointing down and heat the float with a heat gun, the liquid will come steaming out as the air in the float expands, don't use an open flame as it will light any fuel that is coming out or explode the float, if you going to try and solder a hole shut the float needs to be warm before you start so the air inside doesn't expand and push the solder out.
And remember the first three rules of soldering: 1) clean 2) clean 3) clean again only way solder will stick is a clean surface. Flux is your best friend
#1…4 are quite common things on nearly all carbs. At least I have seen it on much more modern ones too. Instead of these fibre gaskets try to get copper ones and heat them up with the torch before using them. this softens them up so they seal better. Aluminium gaskets could also work out well but they can corrode really bad. Depends on the surrounding material and moisture. to repair pitted surfaces and other damages like worn out throttle shaft bushings you can use amalgam (yes the stuff a dentist would use on your teeth (maybe not today anymore?!)) needs some practice but works really well if you got the hang of it!
Stromberg carbs, not my favorite. even on a good day are no good. Other than the leaking you talk about, they are impossible to jet correctly and believe me I have tried. If they run at idle they will be rich at the top end and if they run good at the top end it will be way too lean at idle. Horrible carb. I much prefer the Holley 94. The 94 may be ugly but it will run good every day and give way better fuel economy. Next I am going to try my luck with the Holley 1901 Teapot. Just to see if it deserves it's "Towering Inferno" nickname.
Most guys set up for less than 2 psi. Too much pressure will push open the needle valve and cause constant flooding. Remember a lot of the OG cars like a model A. Had the gas tank in the cowling so it was gravity fed. Not a fuel pump.
There is nothing wrong with neoprene needles. Better than steel as they seal better. BUT when old and dried out they can and will cause grief. Life? max about 10 years, in a carb or in a box!! Ditto accelerator pumps. Old gaskets of all types dry out an shrink with age, carb, engine, tranny gaskets.
Permatex form -a-gasket #2 non hardening formula is also a good sealant for stopping thread or gasket leaks such as you described. It is a lacquer based compound and is ethanol proof. It is sold at nearly any auto parts store and has been for many years. Try not to get any on your hands. It is really sticky! About the only things that will desolve it are carburetor and choke cleaner or acetone. Ouch!
There was 2 bearings that came from my carb when I turned it upside down not sure where the smaller one came from noticed yours has 2 ball bearings as well where were they located if you remember by chance
Great video. A lot of what you talked about applies to all carbs. Another common problem is the wrong power valve. If the vacuum rating is too low it will leek fuel into the intake at idle.Thanks for the tip on the sealer.
Hey Matt Great, informative video. When those Carburetors are working correctly you can't beat them. But when they start messing up, a person needs to repair or replace them as soon as possible to prevent further damage. Stay Warm, Be Well
Perfect timing on the problems with Strombergs. I never thought about the rubber tipped needle. You just saved me a big head ache with using old rebuild kits.
Probably a dumb question, but what is modern fuel in the US? Is ethanol mandatory over there now? We (in Australia) have 91ron, 95, and 98 and sometimes e85. Curious to know what your fuel options are, may need additional mods for new fuels? Thanks guys (or anyone else that can fill me in)!
Matt, We’re you referring to Gasgacinch 440-A Gasket Sealer? I’ve used it for years and works very well on any paper gasket prone to leaks. Great video, carb knowledge is becoming lost knowledge!
I know this is for the Stromberg 97 carbs but what about the Holley 94 carbs. They were stock on a lot of flatheads, and they are a lot easier to find!
One other thing to mention. It goes hand in hand with sticky needles and seats, fuel with crap in it. Fuel filters are super important. Keep the inbound fuel filtered down to the smallest micron rating you can get. I had an old GMC with a stromberg 2bbl and it ran for years n years with out issues because it got fuel filters replaced regularly
An easy, safe test for leaking brass floats- submerge the float in a bowl of hot water. After a few seconds the inside air will expand and make a bubble on the brass shell. If you find bubbles remove the float from the water or it will draw water into the float as things cool. Sealing holes is not a good idea, floats get heavy and don't work as designed.
Год назад
Great video on the Stromberg carb. Thanks for the intro to leaks.
I used to rebuild carbs for folks but never messed with a Stromberg other than a set of side drafts on a Triumph. Mostly I was working on old Rochesters and Quadrajets. One problem I ran into on a lot of old high mileage carbs was the throttle shafts wearing out their bores in the throttle plate causing vacuum leaks around the shafts. My solution was to put o-rings around the shafts where they went into their holes in the sides of the throttle plates. I was wondering if that was also problem on the Strombergs.
Glad to see you mention the fuel sealant. We use it on airplanes as standard practice.
Hi Lee, I thought the comment on sealant was great as well. Just used some for issues I had on my 36 Pontiac Rochester carb, it worked wonders!! Have a great day!!😎
And this is why I enjoy the channel. Basic info on things to look for when building vintage stuff. The metal working videos are fascinating to me and really enjoy when you and Mike do clean outs and buy stuff and the discoveries you share. Greatly appreciated, thanks.
Hylomar, developed for Rolls Royce jet engines.
The single biggest gift to mechanics.
Polymer sealant, fuel and chemical proof, stays tacky forever, easily removable, I’ve long term sealed incredible gaps in cases from pry damage when the only other solution was replacement.
Will never use another sealant, for any application.
Available in tubes, and the spray is perfect for the paper gaskets that Matt mentioned.
Another incredible product that I always keep on my bench and in my tool box is Gel Lube from Valco Cincinnati, great assembly lube and just general lubricant. Sprays as a liquid and then gels and stays put.
I’m with you 💯 % regarding Hylomar, it does exactly what it says on the tube, spray can. I’m not conversant with the other product, but then I live in the U.K. and don’t recall ever seeing it.
Thanks for the follow up details! I’ll have to look into the Gel Lube! Thanks!
Matt, tx for the timely and well done article about carb leak. I recalled a problem that plagued me years ago when the leak between top cover and carb bottom was not due to bad gasket or warped/deformed mating surface. At two places the perimeter screws felt torqued enuff but at one hole the screw was incorrect at 0.080” too long , or the tapped hole 0.080 too shallow. The second hole had a small piece of crud in the bottom which prevented the screw From compressing the gasket enough to make proper seal. I shortened first screw and flushed second hole so top was held tight against perimeter gasket by ALL the screws. You provide a great service to us in the hot rod community, Thanks, John
Good additional tip! Yea those screw holes for the top need to have good threads and ends clean! Thanks for giving your experience too; these comments are helpful as well!
Suggestion - mount a camera at the bench with a white background when you want to show/compare small parts/components. You can focus and zoom to better show them. Thanks for such an important topic.
Good video. I have found a couple of things with old carbies that are a common problem.
1. Dirty fuel. If your fuel tank is full of rust and all old fuel tanks are then you must remove it acid treat it neutralise and 'recoat. I use Redcoat which must be applied to clean dry hot warm metal
2. Old carby mating faces are often warped. I use a new fine stone and hand lap them to make surfaces perfectly flat.
3. Many modern gaskets are too thin
4 jets especially idle can easily be blocked or damaged or wrong. Your comments re power valve are relevant too. Bent or stuck or incorrectly set. And final fine tuning will vary depending on the vehicle it's engine, car weight and where you want the power valve to operate to get best power running economy balance ie not too rich or lean at wrong RPM which will be linked to load and driveability.
5. I find it easier to set up strombergs especially where you have multiples is to do it on the bench so everything is exactly the same. Parts scavenging is common especially if you are running rarer versions.
Cheers
You barely mentioned it but a huge problem is excessive fuel pressure!!! Those old carbs use very little fuel pressure compared to a more modern holley or quadrant carb. Electric fuel pumps and poorly designed fuel systems and regulator placement and adjustment compound the fuel pressure issue. Old carb kits typically belong in the trash! Gaskets dry out and shrink, rubber components and accelerator pumps dry out and become useless.
Excess fuel pressure not only causes leaks it also causes rough running as excess makes the whole carb rich.
Any 2 bbl Stromberg is max 4 psi. In reality 3lb is best. Though IF fuel pressure goes lower it will lean out and possibly damage the engine. 3 carbs on a std pump may have a volume issue. I have seen it a few times though have run 3 carbs on a factory pump with no issues. But very close to a problem!
Fuel plumbing is important. All bends should be large smooth constant radius, Heaps of sharp 90s and 'adapters' will cause issues. For any modified engine 3/8 is fine on petrol. 6 or V8. [1/2" alcohol] From a fuel block to carbs 5/16 is the go. And remember all those dumb shiny fittings often reduce that to under 1/4". Sometimes as small as 1/8"
So stop and THINK and LOOK at this stuff.
Matt, can you do a video sometime on worn throttle shaft challenges and how to fix them.
Hylomar as approved by Rolls Royce
Great demo! Thanks.
I want to see a tool box tour!!! An in depth one. That's a badass box.
Thank you Matt, very informative.
Lots of info. Great video. Be safe and stay well.
To check float valve sealing at the bench hang a temporary tank up high. Fluid head pressure is approximately 1/2 pound per foot of elevation. So if you're running four pounds of pressure at the pump hang the temp tank eight feet above the valve seat on the bench.
A simple flat surface is a piece of glass. Place sandpaper on it and spray with wd40. Works great. Dress the well plug surface with a small flat file. Also make sure the base is flat.
Thanks MATT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video! How about throttle shaft leak? I have seapage from the throttle shaft on 1 of my 3 Stromberg
Why woul a new tri power setup leak only on the secondary carbs?
you check a brass float by filling a glass with boiling water, then hold the float down in the water with pliers, the hot water causes the air inside the float to expand and you will see a stream of bubbles, to remove any liquid from inside the float, once you find the hole, start with a cold float, hold the float with the hole pointing down and heat the float with a heat gun, the liquid will come steaming out as the air in the float expands, don't use an open flame as it will light any fuel that is coming out or explode the float, if you going to try and solder a hole shut the float needs to be warm before you start so the air inside doesn't expand and push the solder out.
And remember the first three rules of soldering: 1) clean 2) clean 3) clean again only way solder will stick is a clean surface. Flux is your best friend
Another off the planet 🚀 hot rodding 101 series!! Thank you Matt and team ITG!!👍🛸
#1…4 are quite common things on nearly all carbs. At least I have seen it on much more modern ones too.
Instead of these fibre gaskets try to get copper ones and heat them up with the torch before using them. this softens them up so they seal better.
Aluminium gaskets could also work out well but they can corrode really bad. Depends on the surrounding material and moisture.
to repair pitted surfaces and other damages like worn out throttle shaft bushings you can use amalgam (yes the stuff a dentist would use on your teeth (maybe not today anymore?!)) needs some practice but works really well if you got the hang of it!
One other thing to check is fuel pressure. Stromberg's only use 3lbs.
The "bees knees" LOL
Stromberg carbs, not my favorite. even on a good day are no good. Other than the leaking you talk about, they are impossible to jet correctly and believe me I have tried. If they run at idle they will be rich at the top end and if they run good at the top end it will be way too lean at idle. Horrible carb. I much prefer the Holley 94. The 94 may be ugly but it will run good every day and give way better fuel economy. Next I am going to try my luck with the Holley 1901 Teapot. Just to see if it deserves it's "Towering Inferno" nickname.
Great helpfull video! I'm about to rebuild my first 97. What screw size was used to take the emulsion jets out? Thanks.
Jet well plugs....I make seals out of lead sheet....guaranteed no more leaks! Works for the Holley 94 plugs AND power valve seals too!
Most guys set up for less than 2 psi. Too much pressure will push open the needle valve and cause constant flooding. Remember a lot of the OG cars like a model A. Had the gas tank in the cowling so it was gravity fed. Not a fuel pump.
There is nothing wrong with neoprene needles. Better than steel as they seal better. BUT when old and dried out they can and will cause grief. Life? max about 10 years, in a carb or in a box!! Ditto accelerator pumps. Old gaskets of all types dry out an shrink with age, carb, engine, tranny gaskets.
Permatex form -a-gasket #2 non hardening formula is also a good sealant for stopping thread or gasket leaks such as you described. It is a lacquer based compound and is ethanol proof. It is sold at nearly any auto parts store and has been for many years. Try not to get any on your hands. It is really sticky! About the only things that will desolve it are carburetor and choke cleaner or acetone. Ouch!
There was 2 bearings that came from my carb when I turned it upside down not sure where the smaller one came from noticed yours has 2 ball bearings as well where were they located if you remember by chance
What is the small hole on base of stromberg for? Some gaskets have corresponding hole and some do not.
I have a ford/holley 94 and it seems to be doing this
Great video. A lot of what you talked about applies to all carbs. Another common problem is the wrong power valve. If the vacuum rating is too low it will leek fuel into the intake at idle.Thanks for the tip on the sealer.
Good point on the power valve!
I replaced my fibre jet plug washers with nylon washers from a Stromberg reconditioning shop, which stopped the leaking and staining instantly.
What is the name of this shop?
Good job Matt
Rule of thumb Think don't Guess
Loctite 515 is a good sealant for carbs
great job matt . very informative.
Yep, I thought so too.
I use an electric pump that only puts out 3 lbs of fuel pressure.
Was just wondering, couldn’t you use some soft copper sheet washers in place of the fiber washers. Seems like it would be a better option.
Possibly !
How many people paused the video and went to Amazon to order the Permatex? I'm glad he mentioned this I'm rebuilding my carb soon.
It’s good stuff!!
Hey Matt
Great, informative video.
When those Carburetors are working correctly you can't beat them.
But when they start messing up, a person needs to repair or replace them as soon as possible to prevent further damage.
Stay Warm, Be Well
Perfect timing on the problems with Strombergs. I never thought about the rubber tipped needle. You just saved me a big head ache with using old rebuild kits.
Awesome glad the video helped!
Did u know, you can run the engine with the top removed....be careful. Fuel pressure 3.5 psi.
Probably a dumb question, but what is modern fuel in the US? Is ethanol mandatory over there now? We (in Australia) have 91ron, 95, and 98 and sometimes e85. Curious to know what your fuel options are, may need additional mods for new fuels? Thanks guys (or anyone else that can fill me in)!
Matt,
We’re you referring to Gasgacinch 440-A Gasket Sealer? I’ve used it for years and works very well on any paper gasket prone to leaks. Great video, carb knowledge is becoming lost knowledge!
EZ Turn lubricant
Your a really good at what you do. And your explanation of the rebuilding the stromberg Carburetor’s! Thank you for sharing!
Morning Matt!! Thanks for sharing the Stromberg tips!!
Be safe from the Vid!! God Bless!!
I know this is for the Stromberg 97 carbs but what about the Holley 94 carbs. They were stock on a lot of flatheads, and they are a lot easier to find!
One other thing to mention. It goes hand in hand with sticky needles and seats, fuel with crap in it. Fuel filters are super important. Keep the inbound fuel filtered down to the smallest micron rating you can get. I had an old GMC with a stromberg 2bbl and it ran for years n years with out issues because it got fuel filters replaced regularly
An easy, safe test for leaking brass floats- submerge the float in a bowl of hot water. After a few seconds the inside air will expand and make a bubble on the brass shell. If you find bubbles remove the float from the water or it will draw water into the float as things cool. Sealing holes is not a good idea, floats get heavy and don't work as designed.
Great video on the Stromberg carb.
Thanks for the intro to leaks.
This is the reason I buy the brand new ones :-)
Where ca I purchase some new power valves?
From Stromberg
I was told that ethanol gas will ruin carburetor that have any type of rubber or neoprene in it.
That's a Throttle Video. Thanks.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
I hope Matt gets Moon and does part two and three of carburetor rebuilding and setting up this was a good one
loctite "green" is a good way to seal a space after the installation were there is a slight leak
Another great video good tips ty Steve
Do you know if the 97 kits fit the 'Aerotype' carbs Stromberg made? They look identical.
No, different design.
Great basic carb class. Loved the episode.
Great info. 🇦🇺🇦🇺👍👍
Great vid Matt!!
Was it "formagasket" gasket sealer you were thinking about ?
Hylomar, developed for Rolls Royce jet engines.
It’s a polymer sealant, biggest gift ever to mechanics.
I used to rebuild carbs for folks but never messed with a Stromberg other than a set of side drafts on a Triumph. Mostly I was working on old Rochesters and Quadrajets. One problem I ran into on a lot of old high mileage carbs was the throttle shafts wearing out their bores in the throttle plate causing vacuum leaks around the shafts. My solution was to put o-rings around the shafts where they went into their holes in the sides of the throttle plates. I was wondering if that was also problem on the Strombergs.
Doesn’t seem to be as bad of a problem on these as other carbs but definitely does happen. Thanks for watching!
@@IronTrapGarage It does seem to be worse on aluminum throttle plates than the older cast iron ones.
What cleaning solution do you use in your ultrasonic machine?
Water and dishsoap for carbs
Is the sealer called Hylomar Blue?
Yes that is the original name/product!
Mine don't leak, they work great.
What are you using for chemicals in the ultrasonic cleaner?
For carbs we just use dish soap and water
@@IronTrapGarage cool thank you
Great tip thanks
great tips
Lots of good information here Matt. Keeps you from having to trash a repairable carb.
Matt , can you help me by telling the difference between a 94 and a 97 ? 🤠
the 94 was the Holley equivalent fitted to later 30s and 40s engines. Perfectly good carb
97s have the idle mixture screws on the front, while the 94s have them on the back.
@@tacoheadmakenzie9311 ???? No difference in jetting or centuries 🤠
I gave you an easy way to tell the difference between the two. And what are "centuries" on a carburetor?
@@tacoheadmakenzie9311 haha auto spell .ventureies. ( throat diam.)
This info is priceless. Thank you.