Arrow Spine Selection Bare Shaft Test Kit “How To” For Recurve And Longbow!
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- This Video is going to show you the easiest way to figure out what arrows you need for your recurve or longbow! A simple and effective way to figure out the best hunting arrow spine and point weight for hunting!
I can't tell u Jeff how many of these bare shaft videos where the influencer doesn't have a great collection of bare shafts in the length or spine that will give una result that u can wrap your head around. 😮🎉❤
You have endless amounts of knowledge..Your just what people need getting into traditional archery like myself..Thank you jeff 😊God bless
Hi Jeff, another great segment brother, but the 340 spine kicking left is confusing to me, even though you explained why. Why not a tail right??? So I’m shooting the Hermit X10 @ 45lbs at about a 25 1/2” draw. I used the 3RA GT Traditional test kit to find my arrow spine/length. I’m shooting 300gr on the front, a 500 spine was hard nock left even cut down to 26”, a 400 spine was still hard nock left cut down to 26”, finally went to the 340 spine at about 27 1/4” and was shooting somewhat straight. These tests were all shot off the shelf. I have since introduced the NAP flipper rest and will restart my testing hopefully this week. Should I expect the NAP rest to change my arrow spine?
Hello, I am a trad bow bowfisher. I would really like to see a bowfishing arrow test series..
Another awesome video I may be an old-timer but I'm learning so much thanks
Harbor freight has a small cutoff saw for around $30 works well for cutting arrows.
Hi, Jeff Thanks for your help!! I just changed my setup and it's perfect you told me 28in 500 shaft traditional should work with 275 to 300 after testing my setup is 27.5 arrow 41lb @ 24.5 /200gr insert 125gr and it's a bullet. I already had the arrows built next time probably gonna use 100gr inserts. Thanks again
Another awesome video! Thank you, Jeff!🏹
Hi Jeff , I'm new to your channel and loving it. Could you do a quick review on the target that you use to bare shaft tune. Looks home made? I was thinking of making a big oversized target and was wondering if you had any thoughts on the build ? By the way way , love your home made hooter shooter to. Maybe I'll Build one. Thank you for the excellent content you provide.
Have you ever shot an ASL type bow. I have longbows and recurves...just would like to try an ASL type. Would like your thoughts on and maybe you could recommend a budget ASL. Thanks for all of your informative videos...may God Bless.
Thanks again for your knowledge, bro.
Morning, I am having issues bareshaft tuning when I upgraded to stronger limbs. I am pulling back 53 lbs with a 27.5" inch draw. Shooting a 28.5" 400 spine gold tip Blemished Traditional arrow , 75 grain insert, arrow wrap. The 200, 175, and 150 grain head are all tail left while shooting vertically. Is this possibly a quality control issue? Because I was able to tune 600 spine arrows pulling back 38 pounds with 300 grains up front.
They definitely should be good with at least one of those points so it’s possible it’s in the actual spine of the arrows.
Backoff point weight with a nice nocking point setting & it doesn't hurt to put an NAP Flipper Rest on there as a bonus. 😮😅🎉❤
I’ve watched almost all of your vids and they have been super helpful with trad archery in general. My problem is I have a 29.5+ draw so most of my bows pull 5 lbs. heavier at my draw. I can’t cut my arrows past 30.5 because the broad heads get very close to my fingers (ask me how I know this ). I’ve been using GT traditional 500 uncut (32”) with 50g insert and 150 - 175g tips (total weight is around 510-535g).These work well on my 40lbs bow but my 50lbs. bow they seem weak. Will cutting 1” stiffen them up enough for a 50lbs bow with same point weight or should I just go to a 400 at 32” ? Thanks again for all the amazing info you put out there for us amateur archers.
I would definitely go up to the 400 on that one 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 I’m gonna go to a 400 then and try to keep 250g(100g insert and 150g tip)out front and cut to 31 or 31.5. Thanks for the help.
Question?So I'm setting up my sanlida eagle x9...My draw is 29 inches first arrow was a 500 cut 29.3/4 with 100 brass inserts and 200 grain head it's Weak!!Next a 400 with the same set up very very slightly weak..So I tired one of my 340 arrows that I had for my compound with 50 grain insert and 175 up front felw like dart but it was nock High...So should I go down to a 340 spine or should I stick with a 400?I could probably add a wrap and a lighted nock and it should fly perfect...Now 400 is 8.1 gpi I could get a slightly higher 400 say 8.3 or 8.9 and it should fly perfectly. .Im just not sure if I wanna run a 340
I’d say the 400 will probably be the one for it.
@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thanks Jeff 😊 I was sorta thinking the same thing but I value your opinion
Spine need is changed by several things including how deeply cut the riser is....saying "this bow is 45#" is a good start but a center shot, a cut to center, and a cut not to center 45# bow likely needs different spines.
I have been following you for awhile now and I have a question, are you or have you ever been an educator?
Only in archery, I used to coach every weekend.
Hi Jeff, what´s your giant testing target made of? Looks like really thick foam but I guess it has a lot of layers behind what we see.
Bow-Na-Fide targets!
So I'm new to this and building an arrow right now. I think I'm going with a Easton Legacy 5mm with a 500 spine. I'm shooting 28'' 50 lbs Hoyt Sateri. I bare shaft tested with a cheaper Victory arrow 500 spine with 225/250 up front, both shot straight. Since I didn't test with a 5mm shaft should I bare shaft again with that arrow or is the 500 spine test I did good for all arrows? After seeing this video now, I have concerns. Thanks in advance!!
You’ll probably be fine with those only because a satori is adjustable as far as the strike plate and can shoot way more center shot than a wood bow so the arrow don’t have as much paradox to deal with but typically you would want a 400 with that bow drawing 50# with any decent point weight because they’re pretty powerful bows.
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thank you for the info. I think I will go with the 400 spine and work it from there. Thank you so much for your time. Your videos are full of info and great for new archers!!!!
@@randytempleton2439 thank you sir!
Why do you prefer a glove over a tab
In uk since 1965 it's illegal to hunt deer or rabbits. A ridiculous law, now they are even trying to make brawdheads illegal, when statistics show that only by rare accidents has anyone been unlived by a bow. Thus 3d and target shooting is so popular. This is handy even for a target shooter using the simple field points. Because obviously a too stiff or weak shaft will determine the way your arrow will hit, I.e an under spined arrow will go right, and vice versa a too stiff of spine will go left. So these are important to know wether you hunt or target shoot what spine stiffness to have, and obviously your arrow grain weight will also come into it. So don't click off thinking this only applies to hunting, because it doesn't, obviously for hunting you want a good clean penetration, that's not so important with target, but it does factor into distance. Some archers say instinctive is ok at 25 yards, and longer it becomes less reliable, thus most field archers who shoot over 25 yards don't advise instinctive. Then you go into dominate eye, that can determine if you're a right or left handed archer, I.e if your right eye dominant you want a right handed recurve because the ledge is on the left. But imo it really doesn't matter because its easy to adjust your aim sight, and it's such a small denominator. Imo. Ps im not a pro archer, I'm basically a intermediate. So anything I've mentioned that is wrong I'm happy to be corrected 🙂
I’ve watched almost all of your vids and they have been super helpful with trad archery in general. My problem is I have a 29.5+ draw so most of my bows pull 5 lbs. heavier at my draw. I can’t cut my arrows past 30.5 because the broad heads get very close to my fingers (ask me how I know this ). I’ve been using GT traditional 500 uncut (32”) with 50g insert and 150 - 175g tips (total weight is around 510-535g).These work well on my 40lbs bow but my 50lbs. bow they seem weak. Will cutting 1” stiffen them up enough for a 50lbs bow with same point weight or should I just go to a 400 at 32” ? Thanks again for all the amazing info you put out there for us amateur archers.
I'm a 29" draw and I shoot a 48 lb bow, so 50.5 lb @ 29. A standard dia shaft, like the GT trad or Easton Legacy, in 400 spine works for me, cut 30 to 31 inches long, with 250 gr up front. I use a 50 gr insert and 200 gr points. If I go to a smaller 5mm, like a Easton Axis, and even a 4mm diameter shaft, I have to go up a spine with the same point weight.
I don't think cutting your 500 shaft down 1 inch will stiffen them enough for your 50 lb weight, unless you decrease point weight or you maybe build your shelf out slightly. If you want to keep the weight you have up front or even add a little, I'd suggest getting 400 spine shafts.
Thanks for the info. I am going to go to a 400 and cut it to 31”or 31.5”with 100g insert and 150g tip.