Great and important video for all E34 owners! Take heed! My 1989 BMW 535i came very close. The blower unit began to squeak at low speeds and before I knew it, smoke was coming from the driver's side footwell. The increased resistance of the blower overheated its power lead. The damage was extensive in the front power distribution box under the hood. That overheated wire cut through many others (about 2 dozen) like a hot knife through butter. To make a long story short, I spent three months of weekends rewiring the rat's nest of wires in the power box, replacing the blower and sword. By some miracle, it started right up when I was done. I am still driving it today.
Thank you for this PSA. One more tip swap the 30a fuse for a 25a for the blower motor. Another way these burn is having a lot of resistance from a old blower and the wires melt get hot and catch fire with something. I have tested with a 20a as well and it will blow after using speed 4 for a bit. 25a is really what it should have from factory but BMW put 30's for some reason
Ah yes man. It’s funny that there are some youtubers that are soo big but they don’t do normal stuff. Everyone is building big LS, huracans, supercars etc., and getting loads of subscribers, likes, and views. Then there is you - the man - the legend documenting all them things you do with your cars wich are not worth millions meanwhile helping us to learn a lot of new stuff. Thanks for these videos, keep up the good work; keep posting them & finish your school year god damn it 😁🤌🏽
Definitely going to buy this for my 550 euro 525i. I was trying to figure out why the fan only works on maximum speed and I was going to change the blower motor soon. But now I will see and change this part because its probably original and a fire hazard.. Thank for the tip.
Just got one of these. Good to know this car is basically a leaf-sucking toaster that can self ignite anytime lol. And the fact that this spot is so well hidden and hard to reach makes me wonder how useful any fire extinguisher would be to put the fire out. Thank you!
Replaced the blower on my 95 540i several years ago. Did not know this resistor existed. I am in the process of replacing the compressor, expansion valve and condenser so I will get this done at the same time. Thanks for the heads up.
Thank you for sharing this I’ve been telling people this to try and save all the e34/e32 owners another fire spot is the break light switch they are also in expensive and easy to replace I suggest checking yours out as it almost burned down my 90 535i I was driving and there was fire at my feet The last fire risk I know of is the third brake light can burn if the wrong bulb is used
I bought one of these off ebay and it glowed red on 2 and 3 consistently. Bought the same brand you have off fcp euro and I haven't had a burning smell problem since.
Another thing I'd like to add to this as a small tip: If you do have a early model or just any model with no airfilter, one thing I did on my daily is install the option of the midconsol ventilation for the backseat, you need a knife or a screwdriver to open the vent passage in the heatercore (was a screw and a cover on my 91, needed a knife to carefully cut it out on my 88). As this option is basically a tube opening in the bottom of the heatercore that shoots out into the backseats, there is a lot of falling vegetation during the fall where I live, so I often have to vacuum up my back seat as they get covered in seeds and other small debree. Without this option does all of this get trapped inside the heatercore, sth that also is not good for the heat register inside.
So i have a 1990 535i with white style resistor, manual AC, and no air filter. Just cleaned it today it there were quite a few debris indeed. Thanks for the tip
Huge thanks, man. I have '89 M20B20 and never thought about this part or why my fan speeds are so unpredictable. The replacement is piece of cake. Definitely going to the parts store tomorrow.
Lmao, my driver side door didn’t open from the inside imagine it caught on fire I wouldn’t be able to get out, unless I run to the passenger side door. Great video bro.
@@m3nameisjosh464 Yes, but I have two e34 :P both 1995 525i. However for this model it says there are two options: 64 11 8 391 699 Nur passend zu Behr (only fits to Behr) 64 11 8 391 919 Nur passend zu Siemens (only fits to Siemens) So I suppose I have to pull the old one out first and see which one it is.
My 95 e34 with 242,000 miles has never had this part replaced. My fan speeds work fine. I never knew it was there. It will be checked and cleaned tomorrow. perhaps order parts. Fortunately, this car has been garaged when not in use so very little crap gets in. Perhaps more importantly, I change the cabin filter every 20,000 miles. I always vacuum the area to remove debris.
Garage kept and good cabin filter maintenance is the key to avoiding this! The resistor naturally heats up, its the leaves and debris clumping inside that contact it and cause a fire, but even with that being said I would replace it if you haven’t as older ones are more likely to melt down
Awesome video, just purchased a very clean 1995 525I yesterday with 117k. What an awesome car, and glad to see there is channels out like this for it. How long before you would replace the Blower Resistor again btw? A year? 2 years?
Keeping car in garage and washing it enough is pretty much it. Otherwise nothing can really be done, the blower will suck in leaves and the only place they can go is the hvac box
Very usefull! According to RealOEM, the automatic climate control does not have this resistor!? It there anything i should check apart from filter and blower?
Good video. My 540 has the oreo dials so has a resistor sword which I have replaced in the past because the blower motor control only allowed for full blast. Can you make a video on changing the blower motor itself? My 540’s motor squeaks so I barely use it because if it’s squeaking things are probably getting warm when it’s on. Cheers
Remember me and me buddy switch out this part on a e36 can’t remember if it was new or not but in texas heat we needed that a/c to get working but car almost caught on fire after I stomped the damn thing as fast as I could 🤣
Well my 1990 535i blower motor smells like melting crayons whenever I turn the blower motor on. At one point the resistor stopped working for like 3 days and started working again. No cabin on the 535i. I think I bought the blower motor from you like 2 years ago on Facebook. Blower still works good but as of a few months ago it started to smell of melting crayons when I run it and sometimes smoke comes out of the vents (on any fan speed) after running the heater for a couple hours straight on long drives and smells really bad.
@@m3nameisjosh464 so you think the blower motor is fine and not melting? I’ll do the resistor definitely but if I still smell melting crayons what could it be?
Can this resistor be relocated to another location? It should not be that difficult to extend the wiring harness so the resistor can be relocated to another spot where it cannot cause a fire.
Maybe that’s why I get that burning smell every time had my AC on , when is cold air non of that smell and hot air have that burning smell, I hope that’s reason of the issue
Have an e 34.520i...is it normal for exhaust to be steamy all the time but doesn't use water at all. Just a stink smell from exhaust gassy smell. Any suggestions
Hey Josh, just replaced my air filter and blower motor resistor today. While the AC has been working fine along with all the fan speeds, I felt I needed to change them. So I did and the air filter was filthy: the resistor was not as bad (no burned metal) just old. Now, the problem I’m having is when I have the fan speed on 2 or 3, it runs fine for a few minutes then stops. I then turn to max and then back to 2 and it seems to be working again. Is this normal? Or is the resistor bad/dud?
Hmmmm this is an interesting problem that I unfortunately don’t have an answer to. I know if when running AC, if system over pressurizes, meaning too hot, lower fan speeds wont work, my car did this in 100 degree California sun. But otherwise I really have no clue unfortunately
Thank you very much Josh, you saved me and my car maybe ahah! I have just two questions about this: my car Is an '88 535i (european version) with the bi-zone climate option, should i have the spade version of the resistor or something else? And where to check for It in the car? Thank you very much again!
Hey I know this video is old but maybe you can help me. my 90 535 has a loud whistle or what sounds like an air leak coming from my rear end. Any Idea what it could be?
I have a '88 model 520i with the M20, it does the same blue resistor as the E34 in the video (but brown). Also, the air filters did come in some earlier model E34s, the ones with higher specs, some have told me, others have told me it came on AC models, what is correct I do not know.
@@m3nameisjosh464 Yeah, the model I have is originally German, so that might be what makes it differ. The part with the airfilter I was told by Americans, so that part I think is international
Got a E34 520i a bit over a month ago and didn't know about this. I have another issue with it, I wonder if you can help me. It started misfiring and dying when hot, but if I let it cool down a bit and/or push it back and forth in gear, it comes back to life. I currently have it on a mechanic I don't know nor trust - my usual one is not available at the moment. I changed the the crank position sensor but he says its still the same. Do you have any idea what might be, just with this small description? Thank you in advance.
Please man, I am close to realizing my dream, to buy an e34 1994. The owner invested 6k euro already, 1500 just for leather seats. The things is he swapped 2.0i with 2.5i vanos and under 3k rpm it has no power, but above is all normal. What could be the issue, could it be something majora ? He will sell it to me for 3.6k
@@m3nameisjosh464 I will, just having fear it wont take more than 1k or 1.5k euro to invest. He said as far as he knows, something needs to be done on the injection or the electricity. One guy I asked told me first suspicion could be vanos, coils or spark plugs, sensors...
@@m3nameisjosh464 some high-end car makers were putting them into the hvac vents in the 90's as a air purifier thing. EVERYWHERE was doing it...they had them for the home,car and office. Air ionizers are still used by professionals for EXTREME smells,but now ONLY if it's done in an open area or there's nothing that's living inside the enclosed area. See it made the air pure from things like pollen,odors and dust,but replaced them with EXTREMELY toxic,cancer causing particles lol
Ok, I tried to get my one out today (its a blue one). NO chance. How do I get this out? I was pulling the plastic things at the side, but nothing happened. Especially the right one feels more like its from metal?! I have a late model (10/1995) Here I have a picture, I have to pull these two, right? i.ibb.co/3FPqD7x/transistor.jpg
Just found someone having the same problem as me in a forum: "i tried for some time to remove it from there, but the tab on one side is extremely hard (i'm a pussy for breaking the plastic bits in the dash)... just gave up. since it's blue in a '92 (where the originals where gray or black) i'm betting (hoping) the PO changed them also, i get blower issues on all 4 positions, and according to the electric schematics (6450.5-02), position 4 bypass the resistor."
@@e34adrian91 the plastic things on sides need to be pulled apart and thats it. Not sure how it could be that hard lol. Maybe break one. If no fan on speed 4 the blower motor is likely bad
I literally just crawled out of my car and to youtube because ive been trying to get this part out for like half an hour! wth is this thing so hard? Some people recommended wd40, others recommended applying heat. I'll try again in the afternoon....
Mine has a metal clip on the right to hold the connector tight. It's a metal clip above the plastic clip of the connector. First I used a flat screwdriver to remove the metal clip by pushing it from from its back. Then I removed the connector without issue as it's standard plastic clips of connectors
Great and important video for all E34 owners! Take heed! My 1989 BMW 535i came very close. The blower unit began to squeak at low speeds and before I knew it, smoke was coming from the driver's side footwell. The increased resistance of the blower overheated its power lead. The damage was extensive in the front power distribution box under the hood. That overheated wire cut through many others (about 2 dozen) like a hot knife through butter. To make a long story short, I spent three months of weekends rewiring the rat's nest of wires in the power box, replacing the blower and sword. By some miracle, it started right up when I was done. I am still driving it today.
Wild story man! Glad shes back in order!
if car has sword it shouldn't have that thing from this video? no?
Correct. The resistor unit Josh is showing was the replacement for the sword resistor in the E34s. Only the oldest E34s have the sword. @@KasparOnTube
Thank you for this PSA. One more tip swap the 30a fuse for a 25a for the blower motor. Another way these burn is having a lot of resistance from a old blower and the wires melt get hot and catch fire with something. I have tested with a 20a as well and it will blow after using speed 4 for a bit. 25a is really what it should have from factory but BMW put 30's for some reason
This is goood. I need to do this!
I believe the manual even states 15A
Thats number 19 on diagram That small fuse? Want to be 100% sure thank you Sir!
Ah yes man. It’s funny that there are some youtubers that are soo big but they don’t do normal stuff. Everyone is building big LS, huracans, supercars etc., and getting loads of subscribers, likes, and views.
Then there is you - the man - the legend documenting all them things you do with your cars wich are not worth millions meanwhile helping us to learn a lot of new stuff. Thanks for these videos, keep up the good work; keep posting them & finish your school year god damn it 😁🤌🏽
Man I really appreciate this comment. Thank you so much bro!
Definitely going to buy this for my 550 euro 525i. I was trying to figure out why the fan only works on maximum speed and I was going to change the blower motor soon. But now I will see and change this part because its probably original and a fire hazard.. Thank for the tip.
Yessir this is much cheaper than a blower motor!
Damn, I didn't have a clue that the E34 has that issue. Extremely useful information, good job!
Just got one of these. Good to know this car is basically a leaf-sucking toaster that can self ignite anytime lol. And the fact that this spot is so well hidden and hard to reach makes me wonder how useful any fire extinguisher would be to put the fire out. Thank you!
Hahaaha a leaf sucking toaster indeed. But agreed, the spot would be hard to even put out with an extinguisher. But having one is better than nothing
Replaced the blower on my 95 540i several years ago. Did not know this resistor existed. I am in the process of replacing the compressor, expansion valve and condenser so I will get this done at the same time. Thanks for the heads up.
Thank you for sharing this I’ve been telling people this to try and save all the e34/e32 owners another fire spot is the break light switch they are also in expensive and easy to replace I suggest checking yours out as it almost burned down my 90 535i I was driving and there was fire at my feet The last fire risk I know of is the third brake light can burn if the wrong bulb is used
Wow I didn’t know about the brake light circuit! Ill have to look into this!
Wait WHAT
Thanks man... hope many owners could watch your video!
I bought one of these off ebay and it glowed red on 2 and 3 consistently. Bought the same brand you have off fcp euro and I haven't had a burning smell problem since.
Another thing I'd like to add to this as a small tip:
If you do have a early model or just any model with no airfilter, one thing I did on my daily is install the option of the midconsol ventilation for the backseat, you need a knife or a screwdriver to open the vent passage in the heatercore (was a screw and a cover on my 91, needed a knife to carefully cut it out on my 88).
As this option is basically a tube opening in the bottom of the heatercore that shoots out into the backseats, there is a lot of falling vegetation during the fall where I live, so I often have to vacuum up my back seat as they get covered in seeds and other small debree. Without this option does all of this get trapped inside the heatercore, sth that also is not good for the heat register inside.
Great tip!
So i have a 1990 535i with white style resistor, manual AC, and no air filter. Just cleaned it today it there were quite a few debris indeed. Thanks for the tip
I’m glad I’m seeing this the day I decided to work on my e34 today
Hahaha you’re welcome😉
Love that spec! Never seen somebody else with that color combo. Love it!
You’ve been my inspiration to keep my long neglected 535 and bring it back to life !
Love to hear it!
Thanks for making this...in the process of changing mine now as there was all off a sudden a noise coming from the ventilation that was much louder.
Huge thanks, man. I have '89 M20B20 and never thought about this part or why my fan speeds are so unpredictable. The replacement is piece of cake. Definitely going to the parts store tomorrow.
Happy to remind you! As an 89 yours will have the sword!
@@m3nameisjosh464 Hey, thanks for your vid! I have an ‘88 525i so I guess it will have the sword as well… is it located at the same place?
Thanks man, a good reminder, will be sure to change this right away on the next E34 I am restoring, mbe this summer.
Thank you so much great information
I replaced my blower motor in 2018, but I never knew about this. I'll definitely look into it as well.
Definitely man
Lmao, my driver side door didn’t open from the inside imagine it caught on fire I wouldn’t be able to get out, unless I run to the passenger side door. Great video bro.
Thats scary bro!!
Bro , You just gave me the diagnostic of my blower problem , even it wasnt the problem i were looking for in yotube… 🙏🏻 bless
Happy to help bro!
🤌
That's why I like your videos so much, I would have never guessed that this is an issue.
Thank you man! Happy to share important info!
Wow. You dodged the grim reaper. Its crazy how life shapes itself 💯💯🙏🏾🙏🏾
Luckily!
Thanks for the PSA! Cheers, G
My pleasure😉
great video, very informative, Love your content bro, it helps so much and has saved me so much money.
@@watonimechanical7742 thank you dude!!!
Really cool video.
Thank you so much for this. I will immediately order two for my e34s. Luckily I already changed the air filter so that will be done in no time
Only needs 1!
@@m3nameisjosh464 Yes, but I have two e34 :P both 1995 525i.
However for this model it says there are two options:
64 11 8 391 699
Nur passend zu Behr (only fits to Behr)
64 11 8 391 919
Nur passend zu Siemens (only fits to Siemens)
So I suppose I have to pull the old one out first and see which one it is.
@@Exekutioncro ahh i see haha. Interesting, I didn’t know there was 2 options?
My 95 e34 with 242,000 miles has never had this part replaced. My fan speeds work fine. I never knew it was there.
It will be checked and cleaned tomorrow. perhaps order parts. Fortunately, this car has been garaged when not in use so very little crap gets in. Perhaps more importantly, I change the cabin filter every 20,000 miles. I always vacuum the area to remove debris.
Garage kept and good cabin filter maintenance is the key to avoiding this! The resistor naturally heats up, its the leaves and debris clumping inside that contact it and cause a fire, but even with that being said I would replace it if you haven’t as older ones are more likely to melt down
Very good video.
I think you helped a lot of people.
Thank you!
Awesome video, just purchased a very clean 1995 525I yesterday with 117k. What an awesome car, and glad to see there is channels out like this for it.
How long before you would replace the Blower Resistor again btw? A year? 2 years?
If you monitor the cabin air filter and its kept clean I wouldn’t worry about a resistor under 5 years!
Is there a current prevention method for keeping leaves out of that area?
Keeping car in garage and washing it enough is pretty much it. Otherwise nothing can really be done, the blower will suck in leaves and the only place they can go is the hvac box
Thanks for this video, I need to do this asap. If I don’t run my ac/fan can I avoid the risk any fires until I change my resistor/blower?
Yup no fan means no risk
Great video, very informative! Just ordered mine and will be doing it asap! Thanks
Thank you man!
Very usefull! According to RealOEM, the automatic climate control does not have this resistor!? It there anything i should check apart from filter and blower?
Hmm Ive never heard of automatic climate control. But its just the three, motor, resistor, and filter to check
Great reminder! This is getting added to the To-Do list on my E34 project cheers dude 🍺
Happy to be a reminder!
Just copped me a fire extinguisher 😍
Good video. My 540 has the oreo dials so has a resistor sword which I have replaced in the past because the blower motor control only allowed for full blast. Can you make a video on changing the blower motor itself? My 540’s motor squeaks so I barely use it because if it’s squeaking things are probably getting warm when it’s on. Cheers
Go through my videos way back to a “winter beater series” and it has a blower motor in thumbnail, i show it in that video!
@@m3nameisjosh464 Awesome, will give it a watch now!
My 540i also has the automatic AC module with the Oreo dials. Does that mean that it certainly has the resistor sword?
@@diogosantos2291 Yes I believe thats the case. I remember coming across a forum post ages ago about it but I couldn't seem to find it again.
my ac panel doesnt work and the previous owner had given a direct line for the A/C any idea?
i have the sword on a 12/95 touring equiped with IHKA (automatic klima) and from what i know the later models use sword
Thanks!
Remember me and me buddy switch out this part on a e36 can’t remember if it was new or not but in texas heat we needed that a/c to get working but car almost caught on fire after I stomped the damn thing as fast as I could 🤣
Whats the video where he replaces the blower motor?
ruclips.net/video/zPJ2CDCZQlY/видео.html
Well my 1990 535i blower motor smells like melting crayons whenever I turn the blower motor on. At one point the resistor stopped working for like 3 days and started working again. No cabin on the 535i. I think I bought the blower motor from you like 2 years ago on Facebook. Blower still works good but as of a few months ago it started to smell of melting crayons when I run it and sometimes smoke comes out of the vents (on any fan speed) after running the heater for a couple hours straight on long drives and smells really bad.
Definitely replace the resistor!
@@m3nameisjosh464 so you think the blower motor is fine and not melting? I’ll do the resistor definitely but if I still smell melting crayons what could it be?
@@funnypranker34 the melting crayons is your resistor melting the hvac box. exactly like I showed in this video.
@@m3nameisjosh464 got it! I’ll get it replaced asap
Is there any way to replace the resister with a mini fuse box instead? And where does the air come in from outside?
Not sure, would probably be pretty tricky to do so. Air comes from front windshield cowl
Can this resistor be relocated to another location? It should not be that difficult to extend the wiring harness so the resistor can be relocated to another spot where it cannot cause a fire.
Ive never heard of anyone doing it, but im sure it can be done easily. I don’t see the reason its even located in the hvac box in the first place
Just ordered one . My new E34 has the burning smell , time to stop using the heat .
Thankyou so much my first car is an e34 and i think you just saved my ass because it always smelt abit burnt when i turned on the ac
Maybe that’s why I get that burning smell every time had my AC on , when is cold air non of that smell and hot air have that burning smell, I hope that’s reason of the issue
I would definitely bet thats your issue
where you buy it
Have an e 34.520i...is it normal for exhaust to be steamy all the time but doesn't use water at all. Just a stink smell from exhaust gassy smell. Any suggestions
Yeah expected especially if colder out
Thinking of buying a 1990 535i, will be interesting to see if it has the sword
Does it have one? Mine doesn't, built in april.
In 3 series E30 also had problem with this burning resistor? I standing in decision with my blower resistor on my E30...
Hey Josh, just replaced my air filter and blower motor resistor today. While the AC has been working fine along with all the fan speeds, I felt I needed to change them. So I did and the air filter was filthy: the resistor was not as bad (no burned metal) just old. Now, the problem I’m having is when I have the fan speed on 2 or 3, it runs fine for a few minutes then stops. I then turn to max and then back to 2 and it seems to be working again. Is this normal? Or is the resistor bad/dud?
Hmmmm this is an interesting problem that I unfortunately don’t have an answer to. I know if when running AC, if system over pressurizes, meaning too hot, lower fan speeds wont work, my car did this in 100 degree California sun. But otherwise I really have no clue unfortunately
Thank you very much Josh, you saved me and my car maybe ahah! I have just two questions about this: my car Is an '88 535i (european version) with the bi-zone climate option, should i have the spade version of the resistor or something else? And where to check for It in the car? Thank you very much again!
Yeah you will have a sword style resistor, which i think will be in the same spot, if not it will be on passenger side in same general area
@@m3nameisjosh464 clear, thank you very much for all your help 😁 I'll check those spots first
Hey I know this video is old but maybe you can help me. my 90 535 has a loud whistle or what sounds like an air leak coming from my rear end. Any Idea what it could be?
I have a '88 model 520i with the M20, it does the same blue resistor as the E34 in the video (but brown). Also, the air filters did come in some earlier model E34s, the ones with higher specs, some have told me, others have told me it came on AC models, what is correct I do not know.
An 88 with this style resistor? Interesting. IIRC you’re in europe, so things may be different there
@@m3nameisjosh464 Yeah, the model I have is originally German, so that might be what makes it differ. The part with the airfilter I was told by Americans, so that part I think is international
I have 1990 Euro and white resistor as well. High spec 535i with AC and without air filter though.
my e34 doesnt have speeds its all smooth does this still apply ?
Got a E34 520i a bit over a month ago and didn't know about this. I have another issue with it, I wonder if you can help me. It started misfiring and dying when hot, but if I let it cool down a bit and/or push it back and forth in gear, it comes back to life. I currently have it on a mechanic I don't know nor trust - my usual one is not available at the moment. I changed the the crank position sensor but he says its still the same. Do you have any idea what might be, just with this small description? Thank you in advance.
Possibly a dying coil pack, or a vacuum leak that gets worse as things heat up and expand?
@@m3nameisjosh464 it does yes. I will check the coil packs next then. Thank you very much.
I wonder if it would help wrapping the resistor in some fine/ish stainless mesh so leaves cannot go in and touch the hot coils.
Possible but also run the risk of that becoming hot and causing the same situation
@@m3nameisjosh464 What if i wrap it in that one yellow tape that can withstand high heat?
@@Zeroneii3 don’t do this
@@m3nameisjosh464 Alright
Is there anything similar to this in E36’s?
Yes e36s have a blower motor resistor that looks different, not sure if its as much of a fire hazard as it is on these cars
imma order one too 😮💨
Is this a problem with the e30 resistors as well?
Not to this extent i dont think
@@m3nameisjosh464 ok thanks. I have one waiting to go in my sons 318is. Makes me nervous.
I saw smoke coming from my E34 vents 3 yrs. ago. Awful smelling. Hasn't appeared since.
Interesting lol
Please man, I am close to realizing my dream, to buy an e34 1994. The owner invested 6k euro already, 1500 just for leather seats. The things is he swapped 2.0i with 2.5i vanos and under 3k rpm it has no power, but above is all normal. What could be the issue, could it be something majora ? He will sell it to me for 3.6k
M50s dont really have power under 3k, so its hard to say lol. My guess is if it is something wrong its as simple as a sensor or something, id buy it
@@m3nameisjosh464 I will, just having fear it wont take more than 1k or 1.5k euro to invest. He said as far as he knows, something needs to be done on the injection or the electricity. One guy I asked told me first suspicion could be vanos, coils or spark plugs, sensors...
How do you know if you messed up the resistors?
Fan wont work
I wonder why there wasn’t a recall years ago?
Thats a good question. I have no idea
Do you know by chance if this is a problem for e36s?
They have blower motor resistors that are designed differently. Not sure if they have fire issues like these cars do
I cant find it in my 89 E34. It is nowhere to be found at the Position in your Video :( might got an idea?
Its on passenger side, its the old style sword
I had a dead mouse fried to the blower motor resistor. I smelled it burning when I turned on the car and found the mouse fried on there 😲
Oh man that’s nasty 😭
cant you just delete that ?
Can you please sell me that blue interior
Never haha
Maaan I don't know how you clipped it out so easily. I'm over here about to kill myself trying to pry it out lol
Ive been hearing this from a few people. Very weird how its so difficult on some cars
This being easy to take out is such cap. Helpful video though
I literally did it on video easily…😭 but i have heard some are lodged in there pretty badly
Does this matter if my blower motor doesn't even work haha
Lmaooo
I thought u were gonna say it had an "air ionizer" which is one of the WORST things manufacturers put in cars
Never heard of such a thing haha
@@m3nameisjosh464 some high-end car makers were putting them into the hvac vents in the 90's as a air purifier thing. EVERYWHERE was doing it...they had them for the home,car and office. Air ionizers are still used by professionals for EXTREME smells,but now ONLY if it's done in an open area or there's nothing that's living inside the enclosed area. See it made the air pure from things like pollen,odors and dust,but replaced them with EXTREMELY toxic,cancer causing particles lol
Ugh I have a new genuine unit in my glove box
Big baller over here
Why Germany sucks at car electronics? Almoust all old luxury German cars have problems with ekectronics...i wonder,why.
Not so much electronics issues, just the technology at the time placed in a bad location.
Mostly only German cars had such electronics at the time. Other manufacturers were still analogic
Ok, I tried to get my one out today (its a blue one). NO chance. How do I get this out? I was pulling the plastic things at the side, but nothing happened. Especially the right one feels more like its from metal?! I have a late model (10/1995)
Here I have a picture, I have to pull these two, right?
i.ibb.co/3FPqD7x/transistor.jpg
Just found someone having the same problem as me in a forum:
"i tried for some time to remove it from there, but the tab on one side is extremely hard (i'm a pussy for breaking the plastic bits in the dash)... just gave up. since it's blue in a '92 (where the originals where gray or black) i'm betting (hoping) the PO changed them also, i get blower issues on all 4 positions, and according to the electric schematics (6450.5-02), position 4 bypass the resistor."
@@e34adrian91 the plastic things on sides need to be pulled apart and thats it. Not sure how it could be that hard lol. Maybe break one. If no fan on speed 4 the blower motor is likely bad
I literally just crawled out of my car and to youtube because ive been trying to get this part out for like half an hour! wth is this thing so hard? Some people recommended wd40, others recommended applying heat. I'll try again in the afternoon....
@@moi0404 weird man, try using screw driver to pry the clips
Mine has a metal clip on the right to hold the connector tight. It's a metal clip above the plastic clip of the connector. First I used a flat screwdriver to remove the metal clip by pushing it from from its back. Then I removed the connector without issue as it's standard plastic clips of connectors