You can also use stay brite 45 as well. I done the same thing but I used copper fittings on my stainless keg. Works really well. Been in the hvac/hvacr trade over 17 years so I have access to all types of things. I've grazed copper to steel, copper to aluminum just about every metal you can think of. Very good video though. Almost forgot you can use sil phos 15 percent to
The only potential issue with the 45 is the ability for the average person with a standard propane torch to get it to flow well. Sil fos is good stuff, but I'm not 100% sure about it's use in direct food contact due to the flux coating on it. I will admit I haven't researched for that purpose though.
@@pewsandbrews I agree I only use it here and there at the keg or if I'm putting copper to the stainless keg. After I braze it I clean that area well. I use copper on everything else and lead free solder. No problems yet. But you have a valid point. Very good video my friend
I've done some with Tig and it's a really involved process that requires a lot of practice to get right, but this is an easy way the average guy can do it without spending too much....hope it helps you out!
Thank you, I'm glad it helped you out! I have a few Vids on brewing...chiller, temp control, hop picking, yeast havesting...ect. Check em out and let me know what you think.
I know this is an old video - but Great Job. Very informative. Great job running through the actual process and installation. Thanks (You have a good teaching methodology)
cool thanks. I have a small hole in the bottom of a corny keg. Here in Australia they are expensive so am going to try and repair. The hole is right on the bottom so think i might have to cut rubber of bottom and seal on outside.
Very nice video. I am trying to size this process to a 1' NPT fitting. Do you know the parts for that? I looked at the two McMaster Carr parts but the OD of your 1/2 NPT coupler is not specified, unless I missed it. I saw one with 1.12" (Grainger) and one with 1.2 (McM-C)and there may be others. I guess it needs to be larger than the 1.050 reducer and smaller than the 1.315 socket well coupler. Beyond that what are the limits? Thanks
Sure....you could use a lot of things, but since the dimpling tool is right at hand since it was just used to pull the fitting in, seemed like the simplest thing to grab.
Hello, Thank you very much for the video. Could you please elaborate on the specification of the solder you have used here? I am asking this because many solder fillers have lead I have heard that its harmful.
Good vid... best i've seen demonstrating the technique... but the prices on the reducer and large coupler are pretty far off according to my check a few minutes ago at M/C.... they are listed at $28 (USD) together.
+Bill McCollam Thanks Bill.....I list the Macmaster Carr numbers, but I will say I got mine from Amazon...I know in the Vid I said Macmaster, but they were found on Amazon much cheaper. The Macmaster numbers give a reference for what the parts actually are. I could have been more specific, but re-editing the whole video would have been a PITA.
+Tim White huh.... i spent 30 mins searching Amazon and eBay.. smallest reducer I found was 1 - 3/4". Let me know if you have a supplier or a link stll around... (with $USD and shipping from M/C - those would cost me well over $50 (CAD)
+Bill McCollam Look for Butt weld fittings......3/4 to 1/2 " from merit brass is 8.20....1" socket weld coupling is 5.50 with free shipping with Amazon prime
What parts would you recommend to make a dimple tool for a 1 inch outlet instead of a 1/2 inch? Also what size hole would I have to make? Thanks for your help!
you'd basically just have to double the sizes. As far as the actual numbers, you need the hole to be at least an 1/8 inch smaller than the OD of your 1" fitting.
The reason I commented is that WD-40 has no cling it simply runs off or quickly burns off, it is good for aluminum though. I was trying to be nit-picky as such because it's physical properties don't lend itself to the stress of drilling steel especially stainless with its work hardening characteristics.
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to silver solder a flat of SS plate 1.5mm thick onto the radius of two 25mm SS pipes (A4 grade) to join them at 90 degrees. I get a fair bit of staining around it, and there is no way I can clean the inverse side of the joint as it's inaccessible - how can I prevent the staining? cheers!
Not sure the staining can be prevented, it's a product of the flux. When it's still a bit hot you can wipe the joint with some fresh flux on a rag, but if it's not accessible, you might just have to live with it or find someone that can weld it for you.
welding isn't the best option - I can't have the slightest distortion in the Stainless tube for this project. Thanks very much for the reply, I'll try wiping it. Best wishes.
Thanks Tim for the great video!! I am just starting the process of welding the couplings into my keg and had one question. Is the coupling just a general weldless or different? Any info is greatly appreciated and thank you for documenting this process so starters like my self have an easier time.. Cheers.
Hi Bob, and thanks..glad it helped you. Sorry for the delayed answer, I don't check my youtube channel very often. Yes, it's a standard 2" long 1/2" NPT fitting I got from barginfittings.com. I think they do come with some of the weldless fitting kits, but you can buy them separate.
Hi Mark....Yes this keg is Stainless. Almost all modern kegs are stainless steel. It is possible to come across an old aluminum keg though. As for as I know, if they have the sankey style fitting they are stainless.
I am try to figure out what to use in soldering copper to stainless steel pipe fittings that is safe and I can do it myself. I have been wanting to see into the silver solder
The Harris Stay Brite is NSF certified, lead free, and safe. The 4% silver gives a stronger joint than plain water line solder, and also works better for stainless ( it works equally good for copper ) while still melting at home propane torch temps. The flux is what really makes the soldier stick to the stainless. It's acid based, so it etches the metal and gives a place for the solder "bite" and hold.
You have to make the tool from the variety of parts listed in the video. Brewhardware now sells a complete tool that works with their fittings. Check them out, really great stuff...I've ordered a bunch of stuff from them and it's always top notch.
Hey Tim, just to clarify, you only put the solder on the insdie and apply heat? Or do you solder both sides? Also, what gas are you using? Propane? MAP?
Yes, solder only on the inside. You want to heat the keg from the outside focusing most of the heat on the fitting. Start out heating the keg itself, but finish with the heat directed almost entirely on the fitting. This was just a standard propane torch ( blue bottle)
Thank you, I'm about to get my first set Keggles in the next few weeks. Appreciate the video. Where can you get the flux and solder Amazon or specialty? Also the Die set if you would too :)
Hey, Nice video did you have to do any prep work on the die/receiver coupling? How many MM smaller hole do you cut? Is the hole diameter predicated on the thickness of the metal? Have you tried to anneal the steel and draw the metal out more for more contact? Great Tutorial.
Never did a MM conversion for it, I went about a 1/4 inch smaller than the die. Never prepped the die, they are pretty smooth to begin with, and I never tried annealing stainless as the temp required is something like 1900 degrees.
MOST....kegs in the US are made of stainless. If you get ahold of an old one, there's a chance it could be aluminum, but most of those are the "pot belly" type. If you get a modern keg from a distributor it's stainless.
For the same reason silicon or rubber washers in weldless fittings don't melt. with liquid in the keg, it will never get hot enough to melt. Now if you put it in a bonfire, all bets are off.
Yeah, its crazy these days. Check Amazon, they had them fairly cheap. There's also Brewhardware.com . Bobby sells a complete pull through dimple set up, or did, haven't checked his site in a while.
Well the WD stands for water displacement 40ith formula. It can be used as both a lubricant and a solvent......hell it's got a hundred uses. I try to use things people would have around the house, and it works well as a cutting lubricant for small jobs like this. Seems kinda nit picky to feel you need to try and correct that though. Direct from the WD40 site :While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
Welding the thicker fitting to the thin gauge keg presents a burn through challenge. Since these boilers only see head pressure, solder is good enough.
It might have been nice if you had bothered to show if you used a oxy acetylene or propane torch for the heat. Kind of pointless with out that little bit of info.
EXCELLENT tutorial - best I found on the RUclips for soldering Stainless Steel as of August 2021
Thank you, glad you liked it !
I learn something new every day. I did not know that there is a solder for stainless steel. Thanks, man.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
@@pewsandbrews No. Thank you. 👍
I was able to create a dimple using sockets I had on hand , a tapered socket on the inside and a larger socket on the out side … worked perfectly .
You can also use stay brite 45 as well. I done the same thing but I used copper fittings on my stainless keg. Works really well. Been in the hvac/hvacr trade over 17 years so I have access to all types of things. I've grazed copper to steel, copper to aluminum just about every metal you can think of. Very good video though. Almost forgot you can use sil phos 15 percent to
The only potential issue with the 45 is the ability for the average person with a standard propane torch to get it to flow well. Sil fos is good stuff, but I'm not 100% sure about it's use in direct food contact due to the flux coating on it. I will admit I haven't researched for that purpose though.
@@pewsandbrews I agree I only use it here and there at the keg or if I'm putting copper to the stainless keg. After I braze it I clean that area well. I use copper on everything else and lead free solder. No problems yet. But you have a valid point. Very good video my friend
I just ruined a keg with stick welding. You are a genius man
I've done some with Tig and it's a really involved process that requires a lot of practice to get right, but this is an easy way the average guy can do it without spending too much....hope it helps you out!
@@pewsandbrews i just ordered everything today and ill make it the exact same way. I sold this stick welding machine. Thanks abunch man
I have to say Sir you are a real pro. Thank you for helping me out You saved my soldering issue .
Thank you, I'm glad it helped you out! I have a few Vids on brewing...chiller, temp control, hop picking, yeast havesting...ect. Check em out and let me know what you think.
@@pewsandbrews You '' THE MAN" Tom :)
I know this is an old video - but Great Job. Very informative. Great job running through the actual process and installation.
Thanks
(You have a good teaching methodology)
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the video! I’m finishing up an e-herms setup and this was a lot of help.
cool thanks. I have a small hole in the bottom of a corny keg. Here in Australia they are expensive so am going to try and repair. The hole is right on the bottom so think i might have to cut rubber of bottom and seal on outside.
Great video. I was able to find a grade 8 5/8 washer that fit inside fitting perfectly
Excellent demo
I am the 66,667th viewer. Looks like the devil beat me by a minute!
Excellent tutorial!!
Thank you
thanks for telling me about the solder I have some from Amazon on it's way
Good man - thank you for the video.
Very nice video. I am trying to size this process to a 1' NPT fitting. Do you know the parts for that? I looked at the two McMaster Carr parts but the OD of your 1/2 NPT coupler is not specified, unless I missed it. I saw one with 1.12" (Grainger) and one with 1.2 (McM-C)and there may be others. I guess it needs to be larger than the 1.050 reducer and smaller than the 1.315 socket well coupler. Beyond that what are the limits? Thanks
great video, inspirational yeah
With the melting point being 430°F, this holds up to 10” Banjo Burners?
Thank you very much the video was very clear and I had a good laugh at the credit, thanks for being so heart lighted.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
If you like that ending, check out some of my other vids ( all brewing related). I always try to end (or begin) with some humor.
Fantastic video! thanks I learned a lot.
Thank you Glad you liked it!
13:00 you can use an oversized washer between dimpling tool and fitting to get a flush fit.
Sure....you could use a lot of things, but since the dimpling tool is right at hand since it was just used to pull the fitting in, seemed like the simplest thing to grab.
Hello, Thank you very much for the video. Could you please elaborate on the specification of the solder you have used here? I am asking this because many solder fillers have lead I have heard that its harmful.
True, you never want to use solder with lead. This is Harris Stay Brite, 96% tin 4% silver.....No lead
Thanks Bud, well done and very informative ...
Good vid... best i've seen demonstrating the technique... but the prices on the reducer and large coupler are pretty far off according to my check a few minutes ago at M/C.... they are listed at $28 (USD) together.
+Bill McCollam Thanks Bill.....I list the Macmaster Carr numbers, but I will say I got mine from Amazon...I know in the Vid I said Macmaster, but they were found on Amazon much cheaper. The Macmaster numbers give a reference for what the parts actually are. I could have been more specific, but re-editing the whole video would have been a PITA.
+Tim White huh.... i spent 30 mins searching Amazon and eBay.. smallest reducer I found was 1 - 3/4". Let me know if you have a supplier or a link stll around... (with $USD and shipping from M/C - those would cost me well over $50 (CAD)
+Bill McCollam Look for Butt weld fittings......3/4 to 1/2 " from merit brass is 8.20....1" socket weld coupling is 5.50 with free shipping with Amazon prime
+Tim White prices have gone up a bit in the last year
Do you know if they have to be stainless steel for the 1" socket weld coupling? I have some steel ones kicking around that I can use
Nice job. I will use your technique for sure
Thanks! glad it helped
Excellent video..! Instead of a pick to move the flux around, use a cottonstick..(the ones you clean your ears with).
What parts would you recommend to make a dimple tool for a 1 inch outlet instead of a 1/2 inch? Also what size hole would I have to make? Thanks for your help!
you'd basically just have to double the sizes. As far as the actual numbers, you need the hole to be at least an 1/8 inch smaller than the OD of your 1" fitting.
The reason I commented is that WD-40 has no cling it simply runs off or quickly burns off, it is good for aluminum though. I was trying to be nit-picky as such because it's physical properties don't lend itself to the stress of drilling steel especially stainless with its work hardening characteristics.
I found putting the washer on the fitting then the dimple tool as you set the fitting , stops you pulling the fitting though......
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to silver solder a flat of SS plate 1.5mm thick onto the radius of two 25mm SS pipes (A4 grade) to join them at 90 degrees. I get a fair bit of staining around it, and there is no way I can clean the inverse side of the joint as it's inaccessible - how can I prevent the staining? cheers!
Not sure the staining can be prevented, it's a product of the flux. When it's still a bit hot you can wipe the joint with some fresh flux on a rag, but if it's not accessible, you might just have to live with it or find someone that can weld it for you.
welding isn't the best option - I can't have the slightest distortion in the Stainless tube for this project. Thanks very much for the reply, I'll try wiping it. Best wishes.
Hey!! I've got that same black and decker "dremel tool".
Thanks Tim for the great video!! I am just starting the process of welding the couplings into my keg and had one question. Is the coupling just a general weldless or different? Any info is greatly appreciated and thank you for documenting this process so starters like my self have an easier time.. Cheers.
Hi Bob, and thanks..glad it helped you. Sorry for the delayed answer, I don't check my youtube channel very often.
Yes, it's a standard 2" long 1/2" NPT fitting I got from barginfittings.com. I think they do come with some of the weldless fitting kits, but you can buy them separate.
End credit music... approved. :)
Good video and explained .
I am working on a keg still and thumper keg to cool down coil so I need to learn what's safe
Thank your for the video. I do have a question though. Is your keg stainless steel or aluminum? Are all kegs made from the same material?
Hi Mark....Yes this keg is Stainless. Almost all modern kegs are stainless steel. It is possible to come across an old aluminum keg though. As for as I know, if they have the sankey style fitting they are stainless.
I am try to figure out what to use in soldering copper to stainless steel pipe fittings that is safe and I can do it myself. I have been wanting to see into the silver solder
The Harris Stay Brite is NSF certified, lead free, and safe. The 4% silver gives a stronger joint than plain water line solder, and also works better for stainless ( it works equally good for copper ) while still melting at home propane torch temps. The flux is what really makes the soldier stick to the stainless. It's acid based, so it etches the metal and gives a place for the solder "bite" and hold.
Could you tell me where I could get that dimpling tool I have checked amazon and aliexpress with no luck … great video
You have to make the tool from the variety of parts listed in the video. Brewhardware now sells a complete tool that works with their fittings. Check them out, really great stuff...I've ordered a bunch of stuff from them and it's always top notch.
thanks for the info much appreciated
good vid Tim, thankx man
Thank you, glad you liked it.
we're would I find the Harris brand solder and it well bond stainless to copper won't it. thanks for replying I like your video
I got mine on amazon....it comes as a kit with the solder and flux for about 10 bucks. Most hardware stores don't carry it.
Hey Tim, just to clarify, you only put the solder on the insdie and apply heat? Or do you solder both sides? Also, what gas are you using? Propane? MAP?
Yes, solder only on the inside. You want to heat the keg from the outside focusing most of the heat on the fitting. Start out heating the keg itself, but finish with the heat directed almost entirely on the fitting. This was just a standard propane torch ( blue bottle)
Thank you, I'm about to get my first set Keggles in the next few weeks. Appreciate the video. Where can you get the flux and solder Amazon or specialty? Also the Die set if you would too :)
Amazon has it, and I'm sure you could probably find it at a good plumbing supply store as well. The big box stores in my area don't carry it.
Hey, Nice video
did you have to do any prep work on the die/receiver coupling?
How many MM smaller hole do you cut?
Is the hole diameter predicated on the thickness of the metal?
Have you tried to anneal the steel and draw the metal out more for more contact?
Great Tutorial.
Never did a MM conversion for it, I went about a 1/4 inch smaller than the die. Never prepped the die, they are pretty smooth to begin with, and I never tried annealing stainless as the temp required is something like 1900 degrees.
Nice work.
Hello. Are kegs made of aluminum or stainless steel?
MOST....kegs in the US are made of stainless. If you get ahold of an old one, there's a chance it could be aluminum, but most of those are the "pot belly" type. If you get a modern keg from a distributor it's stainless.
@@pewsandbrews thank you.
next I am doing a few bulk heads
what is the full name of it if u don't mind telling me. is it a stick or in a roll
www.amazon.com/STA-BRITE-Silver-Solder-STAR2000-Stay-Brite/dp/B0015H6JYS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517617292&sr=8-2&keywords=stay+brite+solder+and+flux
What happens when you set the keg over an open flame to brew your beer and the solder melts and the fitting starts leeking?
For the same reason silicon or rubber washers in weldless fittings don't melt. with liquid in the keg, it will never get hot enough to melt. Now if you put it in a bonfire, all bets are off.
The Solder doesn't melt until 500 or so degrees C.
I'm watching this in October 2022 and those two parts from McMaster Carr are now $24.88 and $21.75
Yeah, its crazy these days. Check Amazon, they had them fairly cheap. There's also Brewhardware.com . Bobby sells a complete pull through dimple set up, or did, haven't checked his site in a while.
@@pewsandbrews I also found an actual cheap dimple die for a hydraulic knockout punch and I have access to one.
How do you clean up the joint after silver solder?
A little sand paper, acetone, or even the acid flux work well for the black flux. Sandpaper for the solder itself.
Thank you
Tim, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it's a solvent.
Well the WD stands for water displacement 40ith formula. It can be used as both a lubricant and a solvent......hell it's got a hundred uses. I try to use things people would have around the house, and it works well as a cutting lubricant for small jobs like this. Seems kinda nit picky to feel you need to try and correct that though.
Direct from the WD40 site :While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
Hi is this better than welding???
No, but it's something that an average person can do. If you or someone you know can weld stainless, that's the best way to go
Welding the thicker fitting to the thin gauge keg presents a burn through challenge. Since these boilers only see head pressure, solder is good enough.
Nice vid!!!! The wire (solder) is stainless too? Where I can buy this wire??
Thanks!!
No, it's 96% tin and 4% silver. Check amazon, it's called Harris Stay brite
is it food grade?
+Brad Butler The solder?.......yes, it is NSF certified.....96% tin 4% silver.
thanks man
DID ANYONE EVER HEAR ABOUT A 1/2 INCH POWER IMPACT DRILL?????
For what?
Good instructional. But at 9:58 it shows you are using cadmium solder. Cadmium is more poisonous than lead, and is carcinogenic.
Although you see the word cadmium on the label, you can't see the word free. The full label reads " cadmium free " stay brite is NFS certified.
It might have been nice if you had bothered to show if you used a oxy acetylene or propane torch for the heat. Kind of pointless with out that little bit of info.
It's a video about soldering stainless fittings. I'm sure you could solder with oxy/Acet, but I used a standard propane torch.
Scott S. Your comment was pointless, the video lesson was priceless. See the difference?