I just did this test a week ago with three samples 400 degrees. 1) Uncured 2) Cured 60 seconds 3) Cured 60 seconds rotated and cured additional 60 seconds. All three pressed 400 for 60 seconds. Cold peel and second press 20 seconds All LOOKED the same. Difference was in texture. #3 was definitely smoother to the touch I was using inexpensive film and powder. If that helps anyone. Thanks for your video.
The purpose of “gelling” - if the transfer is going to be pressed immediately, is to prevent smudging when handling and placement.. It’s all well and good if you’re only pressing 1-2 shirts and your focus is sharp but try doing it for 25-50-75 shirts.. The other reason to gel is for storing and shipping.. Gelling is to bring the powder to a state below cure, when reheated is capable of returning to a relative viscosity (ability to flow and wet/stick to the substrate). Curing on the other hand, cross links the contents of the “glue” and hardens it - eliminating it’s ability to revert back to it’s flowing/wetting state.. Gelling and curing are spec’d in the glue’s thermal properties.
@@rrartsandcrafts6433 The powder is made up of “polyamide” (non volatile, thermoplastic resin) so there shouldn’t be any fading. The powder/adhesive layer is what gets sublimated and not the garment. - Both polyester and polyamide fabrics (T-shirt and outdoor coat respectively) are man-made petroleum based polymers. The sublimating process was designed for dyeing of both fabrics. So you’re simply using the adhesive form of the fabric as a stenciled substrate (applying the powder to the wet ink creates the stencil), applied to another substrate, in this case, cotton.. It’s not really a hack because it’s used across various industries on different substrates..
@@verdedoodleduck An imaged CMYK capable, very thin HTV that can also hold 300dpi halftones if one so chooses.. (Anything higher and the halftone dots are really to small for the garment weave).. Folks tend to boast about extremely high printer resolutions but such fine details are lost on a garment because the dots are too small to lay across the opening of a T-shirt weave (a minimum of two is required for a dot to hold on to. - Regular sublimation directly on to the poly shirt and discharge/water-based screen printing is a different matter)
Thanks for doing this test! It’s one less test I need to do haha. I also want to test a lower temperature vs high temp, and I seen a couple videos where they cured for a longer time (10-15mins)… it would be interesting to see which would have the longest lasting results. Have you happened to wash this yet? Please do a wash update if you have the time once you’ve washed it a few times 🙏😊
Thank you for doing this video! They do look the same, but I think when I do try it, I'm going to cure it. Where can I get the PNG you used? I absolutely love it!
Lol. You aren't late, just taking your time. So you can use dtf film with sublimation ink. There is just no white printed on the back. Also the images are not as crisp as if you used an actual dtf printer. But it works.
I was pondering the same question until I tried it. The biggest advantage is that it can be done on cotton shirts and most colors except black shirts . I do think it looks just as good as dtf. I use a sawgrass 1000. Maybe that makes a difference 🤔
@@rrartsandcrafts6433 It's been a minute and you perhaps know by now that you can use regular white htv vinyl on the black t- shirts, then follow up with the dtf sublimation hack on top.
I just did this test a week ago with three samples 400 degrees. 1) Uncured 2) Cured 60 seconds 3) Cured 60 seconds rotated and cured additional 60 seconds.
All three pressed 400 for 60 seconds. Cold peel and second press 20 seconds
All LOOKED the same. Difference was in texture. #3 was definitely smoother to the touch
I was using inexpensive film and powder.
If that helps anyone. Thanks for your video.
Do you put the power side down on the shirt or the other side
The purpose of “gelling” - if the transfer is going to be pressed immediately, is to prevent smudging when handling and placement.. It’s all well and good if you’re only pressing 1-2 shirts and your focus is sharp but try doing it for 25-50-75 shirts.. The other reason to gel is for storing and shipping.. Gelling is to bring the powder to a state below cure, when reheated is capable of returning to a relative viscosity (ability to flow and wet/stick to the substrate). Curing on the other hand, cross links the contents of the “glue” and hardens it - eliminating it’s ability to revert back to it’s flowing/wetting state.. Gelling and curing are spec’d in the glue’s thermal properties.
Thanks for the information.
I will definitely continue this hack for my 50/50 shirts and hoodies there is no fading so far. Thanks for the info.
@@rrartsandcrafts6433 The powder is made up of “polyamide” (non volatile, thermoplastic resin) so there shouldn’t be any fading. The powder/adhesive layer is what gets sublimated and not the garment. - Both polyester and polyamide fabrics (T-shirt and outdoor coat respectively) are man-made petroleum based polymers. The sublimating process was designed for dyeing of both fabrics. So you’re simply using the adhesive form of the fabric as a stenciled substrate (applying the powder to the wet ink creates the stencil), applied to another substrate, in this case, cotton.. It’s not really a hack because it’s used across various industries on different substrates..
@@StarChild.no1 Are you saying that you're creating a very thin HTV using the sublimation ink?
@@verdedoodleduck An imaged CMYK capable, very thin HTV that can also hold 300dpi halftones if one so chooses.. (Anything higher and the halftone dots are really to small for the garment weave).. Folks tend to boast about extremely high printer resolutions but such fine details are lost on a garment because the dots are too small to lay across the opening of a T-shirt weave (a minimum of two is required for a dot to hold on to. - Regular sublimation directly on to the poly shirt and discharge/water-based screen printing is a different matter)
Thank you! I’ve wondered the same. I have also now seen….print-dust-cure-dust (while still tacky)- then cute again-then press-then second press
Yea. I saw the double cure. Lol. Maybe I try that next.
I’m surprised how much ink was left on the film.
My DTF Station hot peel film leaves no ink behind.
How does this wash??
Thank you for sharing! This was a great video. 👍
I really enjoyed the video, and I think the cured one looks more sharper. I don't even know if that's the right word to use...lol
Thanks for doing this test! It’s one less test I need to do haha. I also want to test a lower temperature vs high temp, and I seen a couple videos where they cured for a longer time (10-15mins)… it would be interesting to see which would have the longest lasting results. Have you happened to wash this yet? Please do a wash update if you have the time once you’ve washed it a few times 🙏😊
I haven't washed it yet. But I will definitely put up a part 2 after I wash them a few times.
Like yourself I would cure it. Thanks for making this video. We'll done
I think they both came out good I love this
I've gotten the same splotches. Any idea why this happens ?
What about from a 'first wash test' and '5 washes later test?' Which one holds up on, say, a 👕?
Any wash update on these?
Thank you for sharing
Thank you for doing this video! They do look the same, but I think when I do try it, I'm going to cure it. Where can I get the PNG you used? I absolutely love it!
I created it in canva. I am trying to create one to sell on etsy. Hopefully soon.
The one on the right of the screen is a little darker.
They both look good, new to your channel
Welcome to the party.
Can try it on black item
Omgosh we have the same name and nickname Fefe well hello.. so mine don’t cure I have to wait overnight 😢
Hey Fefe. So many of us are popping up these days.
Any ideas if it will work with an inkjet this way??? As I am a newbie an do not own a DTF printer.
I am not sure. I have seen the hack work with inkjet for other people. I assume the results would be the same.
Yes it will
Helllloooo🤗I’m a newbie quick question so you can dtf with a sublimation printer?
What’s the hack yes yes I’m late 🤦🏽♀️
Lol. You aren't late, just taking your time. So you can use dtf film with sublimation ink. There is just no white printed on the back. Also the images are not as crisp as if you used an actual dtf printer. But it works.
I was pondering the same question until I tried it. The biggest advantage is that it can be done on cotton shirts and most colors except black shirts . I do think it looks just as good as dtf. I use a sawgrass 1000. Maybe that makes a difference 🤔
@@rrartsandcrafts6433 I’ve just watched a video short where someone used black curing powder for darker shirts
@@rrartsandcrafts6433 It's been a minute and you perhaps know by now that you can use regular white htv vinyl on the black t- shirts, then
follow up with the dtf sublimation hack on top.
Nice
How long did you it take to completely cure?
On my heat press it took about 6 to 7 minutes.
I don’t have a heat press I just have a Cricut press
You can use that as well if you have the second generation and higher heat press.