I made up an Oil concoction of 50% 90W gear oil and 50% Lucas engine oil treatment, quieted the exposed gears on my old atlas down quite a bit - I even added Lucas to the internal Gear oil on my Clausing 13x36 last oil change- thats running smoother and quieter too dude!
I have bored out many gears. When you are wanting concentricity a face plate with some clamps to hold the gear you then can indicate the bore. To confirm concentricity use a small pin in-between the teeth of the gear. In 4 places similar to what you would do indicating in a 4 jaw chuck. I was able to consistently hold .0002" runout. Keep the videos coming.
I am with you on gears. One in school was plenty enough. LOL. That worked out great for you my friend. That piece of mind you get from knowing the machine is no longer trying to eat itself is pretty enduring eh. Nice job bud !
I use CRC open gear lube on my gears. It's messy, but helps a lot with the noise. I spray it on a piece of cardboard, and use an acid brush to apply it to the gears to minimize the mess. You have to clean the oil off first. You might give it a try.
@@WinkysWorkshop The open gear lube sure is, give it a go- you might be surprised with how well it will quieten down the gear train. It's really tacky and doesn't fling off the gears like oil does. Since the gear train is concealed, you don't really not be be concerned with swarf/chips getting inbeded in the mesh. Take care, G.
The 0.0005"/0.001" press fit on a bushing that large would have held without welding, especially since it is a pinion gear driving a much larger gear. Pinning the gear and bushing together would have been very easy. After pressing the gear and bushing together drill and ream through one side for a ~1/16" dowel pin. Install the positioning shaft you used in the lathe set up and drive the dowel pin into the assembly until it almost touches the shaft. Cut the excess dowel off with a Dremel tool and Bob's your uncle. Now you can readily take it all apart it needed. If you want the gears to run silently dab a bit of STP or MotorMedic oil treatment onto the gears. The oil is very thick and sticky. If it slings off it is a bit of a mess and you need a solvent akin to kerosene to clean it up. Cheers from NC/USA
Winky: As for the Headstock Bearings (bushings), I'm sure you are well aware the you can't buy replacement parts for these old South Bend lathes. I was a little shocked when you mentioned the bushings being "low on oil" and making noise. At least on my 13" South Bend, there is no oil reservoir to speak of, just oil cups and wicks. In my case, it's vital to fill the cups before each use of the lathe. My 13" has split bushings that would be quite a challenge to make if even possible in a home shop and impossible if the lathe is out of commission with damaged bushings. If the bushings are making noise, they are being damaged. Personally, I would disassemble and check them ASAP. Good video. Thanks.
I also oil the bearing before every use. The bearing wasn't making noise, it was allowing chatter. Still not a good sign but a big difference. South Bend has many different bearing and lubrication setups. There are no felt in mine and from all the info I have found there never was. Maybe I will find some felts.
As long as you get the diameter and number of teeth right they are not very critical. With no load on the gear if does have to be a perfect mesh. I made a gear for my SB with a saw on the mill.
Hi. I am not sure where you live but wanted to tell you about Evolvent in Ventura California. I took a two day gear class there last summer and it was excellent. I don’t know that I will ever cut a gear but they have several calculators on their site that may answer any questions you have. Thanks for the video! All the best, Norm in Arizona
I've replaced teeth before and it's amazingly hard to get right. They can look perfect and you hear them. The replacement gear is doing well. Eventually I'll replace the gear behind it. Maybe I'll try making it out of aluminum.
Winky I know blokes that have had the same problem and they cut their new gear out of aluminium--6or 7 years later still going good...Ivan Laws book on gear cutting mentions using dissimilar metals to cut down noise and wear..That is where I would go...regards E
The only way to quieten those gears would be to run them in an oil bath! You should be pleased with the low amount of noise coming from those gears. It's very pleasant compared with my geared headstock ! And mine's not as bad as some others for whine.
@@WinkysWorkshop it looked like one gear had a cycloidal tooth form and the other an involute tooth form, but not 100% sure. Cycloidal tooth gears were alot more prevalent in the era of your machine I believe. That could explain the mesh issue, can be same pitch and pressure angle, but the different tooth forms still don't mesh with each other, or will wear excessively and be noisy as. I believe that cycloidal gears also have to have the clearance set in a manner that ensures the PCD's of the meshing gears are the point of contact to ensure constant velocity. A trait apparently avoided by using involute gears. I heen reading Ivan laws gears and gear cutting book 😁 its well worth the read and as an added bonus has drawings for the eureka tool!
I had an uncle that was an old school machinist. I asked him once if he could make gears and he said it was the one thing he couldn't do. He explained it this way, if a machine shop had a gear hob, there would be one or two guys that were dedicated to it, and nobody messed with those guys. Apparently it's a black art that only a few are chosen to do. I suppose in todays computerized world it's just a matter of entering some data, push start, and go get a cup of coffee.
Good job there Winky. Keep on keeping on.
Thanks Harold
GREAT REPAIR!!! THANKS FOR SHARING AMIGO 👍
You're very welcome! Thanks
I made up an Oil concoction of 50% 90W gear oil and 50% Lucas engine oil treatment, quieted the exposed gears on my old atlas down quite a bit - I even added Lucas to the internal Gear oil on my Clausing 13x36 last oil change- thats running smoother and quieter too dude!
Interesting. Thanks for the info!
I have bored out many gears. When you are wanting concentricity a face plate with some clamps to hold the gear you then can indicate the bore. To confirm concentricity use a small pin in-between the teeth of the gear. In 4 places similar to what you would do indicating in a 4 jaw chuck. I was able to consistently hold .0002" runout. Keep the videos coming.
Pins in the gear us a good idea, thank!
Messing with gears is fun... It's not easy but it's fun.
I agree - I may try cutting some again someday.
Nicely done, Mark.
Thanks Ray!
thanks for sharing! a fix is a win!
Thanks for watching too.
I am with you on gears. One in school was plenty enough. LOL. That worked out great for you my friend. That piece of mind you get from knowing the machine is no longer trying to eat itself is pretty enduring eh. Nice job bud !
Thanks 👍 - Yeah... they are interesting but I have a lot of other things to spend my time on.
Good thinking out of the box mate.
Thanks
Really enjoyed that,thanks
Glad you enjoyed it, your welcome!
I use CRC open gear lube on my gears. It's messy, but helps a lot with the noise. I spray it on a piece of cardboard, and use an acid brush to apply it to the gears to minimize the mess. You have to clean the oil off first. You might give it a try.
Thanks.... crc seems to be good stuff
@@WinkysWorkshop The open gear lube sure is, give it a go- you might be surprised with how well it will quieten down the gear train. It's really tacky and doesn't fling off the gears like oil does. Since the gear train is concealed, you don't really not be be concerned with swarf/chips getting inbeded in the mesh. Take care, G.
Good Idea Mark. I am in the same boat with my old Clausing 100. Clausing no longer supports it since it is so old so I have to make everything for it.
It worked well, thanks
If you can find a basic stock gears to match they are way cheaper.
well done~ 👍😎👍
Thank you 👍
The 0.0005"/0.001" press fit on a bushing that large would have held without welding, especially since it is a pinion gear driving a much larger gear. Pinning the gear and bushing together would have been very easy. After pressing the gear and bushing together drill and ream through one side for a ~1/16" dowel pin. Install the positioning shaft you used in the lathe set up and drive the dowel pin into the assembly until it almost touches the shaft. Cut the excess dowel off with a Dremel tool and Bob's your uncle. Now you can readily take it all apart it needed.
If you want the gears to run silently dab a bit of STP or MotorMedic oil treatment onto the gears. The oil is very thick and sticky. If it slings off it is a bit of a mess and you need a solvent akin to kerosene to clean it up.
Cheers from NC/USA
How'd you know about Bob? I thought about pinning it. yeah.... using 600 wt gear oil works about as well.
Winky: As for the Headstock Bearings (bushings), I'm sure you are well aware the you can't buy replacement parts for these old South Bend lathes. I was a little shocked when you mentioned the bushings being "low on oil" and making noise. At least on my 13" South Bend, there is no oil reservoir to speak of, just oil cups and wicks. In my case, it's vital to fill the cups before each use of the lathe. My 13" has split bushings that would be quite a challenge to make if even possible in a home shop and impossible if the lathe is out of commission with damaged bushings. If the bushings are making noise, they are being damaged. Personally, I would disassemble and check them ASAP. Good video. Thanks.
I also oil the bearing before every use. The bearing wasn't making noise, it was allowing chatter. Still not a good sign but a big difference. South Bend has many different bearing and lubrication setups. There are no felt in mine and from all the info I have found there never was. Maybe I will find some felts.
That probably was the best solution to use a commercial gear
I agree... for sure cheaper.
Great video winky, I've been trying to make a thread dial gear for my sebastian lathe 24 tooth, giving me a fit.
As long as you get the diameter and number of teeth right they are not very critical. With no load on the gear if does have to be a perfect mesh. I made a gear for my SB with a saw on the mill.
Looks like it works! Good job 👍🏻
Thanks Don
All geared up now. ;)
Yep. I like it
I like it !
Thanks
Just a quick trip, to quickly cool a part for a press fit, just spray it down with canned air, upside down so that it soaked in the liquid
That would do it, thanks
Hi. I am not sure where you live but wanted to tell you about Evolvent in Ventura California. I took a two day gear class there last summer and it was excellent. I don’t know that I will ever cut a gear but they have several calculators on their site that may answer any questions you have. Thanks for the video!
All the best,
Norm in Arizona
Thanks Norm, yeah I've watched bunch of videos about gears. Lots to absorb. I'll try this again at some point.
If needed, you could braze the damaged teeth in that larger gear and bandsaw the teeth down and then file them smooth. It might make them quieter.
I've replaced teeth before and it's amazingly hard to get right. They can look perfect and you hear them. The replacement gear is doing well. Eventually I'll replace the gear behind it. Maybe I'll try making it out of aluminum.
If Winky likes it, so do I!!!
Thanks Danny
Winky I know blokes that have had the same problem and they cut their new gear out of aluminium--6or 7 years later still going good...Ivan Laws book on gear cutting mentions using dissimilar metals to cut down noise and wear..That is where I would go...regards E
I agree with this idea! I may try this at some point.
Tell us about the non-metalic directional gears.
Here's a video when I installed them ruclips.net/video/-FpmtstEUaw/видео.html
80/90 gear lube helps my south bend 13 .You might give that a try.
I've been using 600 wt oil
The only way to quieten those gears would be to run them in an oil bath!
You should be pleased with the low amount of noise coming from those gears. It's very pleasant compared with my geared headstock ! And mine's not as bad as some others for whine.
Oil bathe would be nice but I guess I'll live with the noise.
Good job. But I would have made enough of a groove in the outside between the two pieces, welded it in and faced it off.
That would have been better but i doubt this will ever fail - Thanks
You can make a helical gear and it will quite it it down
I've had a hard time with a straight gear!
What about a presentation on the arbor press
Yeah... I already had several so I used what I had.
Problem solved, but I didn't quite understand what was wrong with the gear(s) you made - at first glance, the one you shown looked OK.
It was super noisy but you can also see the difference in profile if you look closely. Too much curve, the teeth were more pointed.
@@WinkysWorkshop it looked like one gear had a cycloidal tooth form and the other an involute tooth form, but not 100% sure. Cycloidal tooth gears were alot more prevalent in the era of your machine I believe. That could explain the mesh issue, can be same pitch and pressure angle, but the different tooth forms still don't mesh with each other, or will wear excessively and be noisy as. I believe that cycloidal gears also have to have the clearance set in a manner that ensures the PCD's of the meshing gears are the point of contact to ensure constant velocity. A trait apparently avoided by using involute gears. I heen reading Ivan laws gears and gear cutting book 😁 its well worth the read and as an added bonus has drawings for the eureka tool!
I had an uncle that was an old school machinist. I asked him once if he could make gears and he said it was the one thing he couldn't do. He explained it this way, if a machine shop had a gear hob, there would be one or two guys that were dedicated to it, and nobody messed with those guys. Apparently it's a black art that only a few are chosen to do. I suppose in todays computerized world it's just a matter of entering some data, push start, and go get a cup of coffee.
Gears are critical. I'm guessing it's probably not with learning but it might be fun.
Time 01:45. Those tooth looks like needing the dentist... It also looks like a none centering issue to be worn like that.
Well done.
The lathe sat in the rain.... the teeth rusted where the water got to them.
Problem Solved.
Thanks