Building an Improved Lantern Style Tool Post
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- Quick Change tool posts have a lot of advantages but the older Lantern Style has a few as well, particularly on an older lathe. Cutting forces are transferred straight now on the compound while the quick change also transfers torsional forces.
I love the new intro music! When you changed the intro to this pulleys and belts I thought it looked like an old cinema projector, but now you've added the music it really 'POPS'!
I had a lot of fun with this. You tube has a bunch of free music clips for people to use and this fit perfectly.
I enjoy the yammering Wink...it’s a Zen, relaxing machinist experience
Thank you sir
Great work. Looked real good. Much better built then the ones the lathe comes with. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks 👍
I made a lantern tool post for my lathe as well. I built several tool holders for HSS blanks which use a wedge for height adjustment, which for convenience is retained when the tool is removed. That was 2 years ago. All I use the OEM carousel holder for now is the parting tool.
The 4 way posts are good for cutoff work, the quick change posts are not so good if your lathe isn't super solid. You might find part two amusing.
ruclips.net/video/ZYNSaqv73rs/видео.html
@@WinkysWorkshop the threaded height adjustment is a decided improvement over the traditional rocking style. However, it still does not retain individual heights between different tools. If you make your own tools, you can incorporate an individual height adjustment into each tool. In your case this makes little sense, because you already own a quick change tool post and an array of carbide insert tools. Great video - thanks for sharing!
@@5tr41ghtGuy - Very true. The lantern post has one advantage, it's a little closer to the tail stock and this is why I made the tool post. On my Logan the tail stock always interfered with the carriage movement. Of course it's also harder to get close to the chuck with the lantern style so it's a trade off. My south bend tail stock spindle was missing when I got it so when I made one, I also made it longer. I don't have the original to compare it too but I'm guessing it's a little over an inch longer. This makes a huge difference! I need to make a new one for my Logan too.
I loved watching your video. Best regards from Florence, Italy
Thanks for watching!
Nice, never thought to do that...I can see the advantage, as I too go back to my lantern tool post for some set ups...thanks ;) for the idea...!
I don't think you can get more solid! I think I like the quick change better just for speed but this is a good tool post.
Nice tool post,MarkI ordered one from Ebay.Thank you.
Cool, thanks
Nice project, I have a 10" South Bend and I've added this to my project list.
Very cool! I have a second video where I made a height adjustment. You might want to look at it.
My lathe dates back to the 1930's and in place of the single slot block style tool post I used a small QCTP I made for another lathe about 40 years ago with the idea that one day I'd invest in the proper sized tool post to suit the lathe.......went on Amazon and bought the AXA wedge style with a swag of tool holders..........anyone who even considers a lantern style tool post has rocks in his head......just my personal opinion.
I like the quick change better but I like this post better than the standard lantern post. I'll eventually get an AXA, My other lathe has one.
Loved the way you parted off on your small lathe using power feed. I would not even try it using my Hardinge tool room lathe. I have always been scared of parting off and I did 40 Years of machining as a job and still do it at home.
Most of the reason it works so well is the way the blade is mounted on the compound. All the force is downward on the compound aside from slight lifting force in the back. I always turn the compound parallel to the cross slide. The mechanical advantage on the compound slide in this position is huge. Quick change posts are great on heavy modern lathes when everything is tight but with the tool hanging off the side the force becomes torsional. Any flexing or wear in the slide becomes a big issue. The BLADE has a T type with a concave top and the chips always have clearance. They come in a lot of sizes but this 1/8" blade seems to be the best for me. HHIP 2000-7065 1/8 x 7/8 x 6 Inch 8% Cobalt Parallel Type Cut-Off Blade-P5X
Something else... I usually part off at the recommended cutting speed. That would be 450 RPM @ 1-inch diameter. I was running slower for the larger diameter plus my lathe makes a big jump in speed unless I want to move the motor pulley.... which is a bit of a pain.
As a new owner of a metal lathe (old Atlas 10"), I am researching by watching tons of youtube videos to see how experienced people work. The logic you explain behind your shimming etc., gives what I consider a type of "mental cheatsheet" that will help me approach my lathe in a more comprehensive manner. I have not yet used the lathe as I plan on stripping and restoring it before I use it. The lathe does not NEED a restoration, but I want to make it like new, and I also want to have the experience of tearing it down and rebuilding it so I have a better overall comprehension of it. Add to that I have a hobby of restoring tools anyway ... I am looking forward to the task.
Cool... good luck on the lathe. I'm glad my videos got you thinking. Keep my cutoff tool video in mind too. It will help you in the future. The link is at the end of this video.
Will do and thanks again!
My dad had a lathe with the lantern toolpost. Most RUclips videos only use quick changes. I am glad to know why, and how, the old style was used. We never could get Morse tapers tooling to fit. The old lathe had hand reamed tapers. They had gone just bit too far. The old shop likely just made their own tooling if necessary. It was taken from an old shop built for the WW2 Radar project at MIT. Real history can be just around the corner. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. Good to hear about old machines and history.
@@WinkysWorkshop You are welcome. I cannot support you as I'd like. So I try to entertain in return for your work.
I still use my lantern tool post for certain things. Nice work.
Cool, thanks
Lantern tool posts do work well for some setups. There's just some things they can't do as well and overall add so much time to tool setup and changes.
I totally agree. I may use this on my south bend and keep my quick change on the Logan.
Nice job. Another consideration is removing the compound and replacing it with a solid block mounted on top of the cross slide. Reinstall the compound when needed for threading or cutting short tapers. I have seen a variation of what you did but the outside of the post is threaded with a fine thread say 16 tpi. A thin nut secures the post on top of the compound. Another nut is threaded onto the post and supports the tool holder and is adjustable for height. This eliminates the need for shims. Keep up the great work. Stay healthy.
Interesting... I'm not sure I followed that right but I found a new solution. I'll post a video today I hope.
I use my lantern some time but i flipped the washer and got rid of rocker and used shims but may try your setup thanks for the video
Cool! Basically the same idea
Nice, I believe your right about the Tee nuts, when I rescued my lathe I didn't receive the rocker or spacer for the post holder but did get the tee nut and post. I have been using a stack of large washers I got at tractor supply ($1.75 per pound) that I ground flat for the spacers but, still wobbly till tight. It's been a pain to set center since all the tools I got requires a different washer height thickness depend on where the cutting edge is ground it on the bits. You will probably laugh at what I'll tell you next but it works. Since the center is finite and the compound base is finite I shimmed all bits and holders to hit 1.9375" it cutting edge, I started out using a thin layer of hot melt glue to keep the shims on the tool holder or bits together, since it is easy to take hot melt apart with a heat gun. My plan was to then switch to JB Metal once I got the right height set. However, the hot melt has worked so well I've had only done a few with JB Metal. I heat the assembly of shims and bits with the heat gun first then it's easy to apply a thin layer of hot melt between the layers, I then squeeze then in my small HF vise until cool. Long story short I will start building your design and style, especially the Tee nut design, and spacer today but probably keep hot melting the shims on the tools. Thanks
One person commented on this video. He said he is doing the same as me with a lantern style post but he said he made a spacer washer that screws into another. He said he unscrews the washer to change the height. No shims
Great video it inspired me. I replaced the rocker and its curved washer on my Atlas 10" with a spacer that brings the tool holders to where I can center the tools by adjusting the tool extension from the holders. This works because the bits are held at an angle to the base of the tool holder. There is a mix of Willmans, Armstrong, and Atlas holders. All but one work with the spacer. Its too tall. My plan is to make a simple jig I can use off the lathe to set the tool tip height after sharpening or changing. It seems to be working well and I love not having to mess with setting tool height, or have the rocker shift. When I made the washer I made a few extra inches that I can use should I need a different spacer Thinking of doing the same for my Sidney 14".
I use a lot of inserts. The HSS is better in some cases but the carbide is quick and easy. Your method sounds like a good solution for HSS. I made a second followup video to this one that you might be interested in. Thanks for watching. studio.ruclips.net/user/videoZYNSaqv73rs/edit/basic?o=U
FYI - The paint was Rustolium. I prep the surface by cleaning with acetone and then prime with a very light coat of Rustolium primer. In my opinion a heavy coat of primer weakens the final coat. I've had good luck with Rustolium although it takes 3 or 4 days to get good and dry.
For those that haven't used this style of tool post there are some tool holders you might find useful in addition to the left, right, and straight holders.
You'll have to keep an eye out for them as they probably haven't been made in a long time. In the attached photo the tool in front has a swivil turret and holds the tool at a steep angle (as was common many years ago). This is handy for holding trepanning tools to cut o-ring grooves on a flat face when it's turned around backwards from where it would normally be used. It will also hold round tools.
The second holder is similar and I've used it a lot. It allows the cutting tool to be swung around a good bit. Once you've set the tool height you can quickly swap cutting tools as needed and swing them around as needed to get into hard to reach spots.
The last tool is an Armstrong brand threading tool. It is my go-to tool for cutting threads. The high speed insert is ground to a 60 degree thread profile. To sharpen it only the top surface has to be ground. As it is used up the insert is rotated. At the rate I'm using it up it should last until about the year 2631.
Cheers from NC/USA
postimg.cc/jwJVKVzF
Wow... thanks for the detailed comment. I had quite a few of these left, right, center etc. tool holders and sold them all. I probably should have kept them but I use carbide inserts most the time. It I stick with this tool post I may make some for inserts.
I have those fixed tool holders too and rarely use them. The holders in photo take their place. With one of the swivil head tool holders and your new fixed height tool post it would about as efficient and quick to use as a quick change tool post.
I use cemented carbide turning and facing tools. They work well for home use and are easy to regrind. If you use them buy the correct grade for the work you are doing from Travers Tool, MSC, or other supplier. They work much better than the "mystery" tooling from China. 5/16" cemented carbide tools for a bench lathe are substantially cheaper than a box of inserts and will last you much longer.
I have a couple of insert tool holders but almost never use them. They are the thing for Job shop use and CNC. The problem is my lathe isn't stiff enough and doesn't have the horsepower for insert tooling to be cost effective.
I do have carbide inserts that are left overs from pre-retirement. I silver solder them to steel shanks if I really need a particular style of insert. Only takes a couple of minutes with an oxy-aceytlene torch to make one up.
Cheers from NC/USA
@@aceroadholder2185 - I use inserts all the time unless I need a particular profile. Some inserts are much better than others for lower speed and HP lathes.
This is amazing. After hours spent searching for an insert plate to put in my lantern-style T slot to use REGULAR posts, you build a new one from scratch...
I'm the second owner of my lathe. The lantern tool support has a washer that matches the rocker curve and it pretty stable. Although i use a wedge type quick change type tool holder mostly.
I went to a quick change after this... I line it better
Great video. I have a lot of Armstrong tool holder
You might want to hang on to those. I used to have several but I sold them.
nice job on this one wink,i really enjoyed it,also loved the intro with the music,you could be a music producer too . only kidding have a great day and stay safe my friend.
Thanks, I had fun with it... the lathe running reminded me of old movie reels.
I like it , All you can do is run it a while and see if it works out .. Seems very stable to , ENJOYED !!
That's the plan! The quick change is a little easier but this is more solid.
@@WinkysWorkshop I agree !!
Love the old time intro and ending, plus WINKY'S PRODUCTIONS. You brought up alot of things to think about. On a small lathe the extra rigidity and being able to take heavier and cleaner cuts should offset the toolchange time. In one of your recent videos I spotted a toolpost that you made. It hade a post that was mounted vertically with a horizontal cutout on the left side. You had a interchangeable toolholder that slid into it and was held by a bolt or setscrew. This toolholder had a slot just like a quick change toolpost. Even if this design did not work out I would be interested in seeing what you had in mind.
Yeah... that other post was experimental. I had it on the south bend to try it. The one bolt mount wasn't so good because it was off to the side. But... that was the idea, mount the tool in a holder with the needed shims and you have a quick change. Interesting that you noticed... I'll be a few people wondered about that post. One person's comment on this video was interesting. The guy said he made a washer that unscrewed to adjust the height of the tool. That way he eliminated the need for shims... I won't be sleeping tonight!!!
@@WinkysWorkshop" I won't be sleeping tonight" I think that we are in the same boat. I did read his comment and thought it is a very clever idea. I thought the toolpost was a interesting design. To bad you didn't have good luck with it. The basic concept looked promising maybe the problems could be sorted out. I don't know I just got a glimpse of it. More to think about tonight.
@@andyZ3500s I never give up. These things are working themselves out in the back of my brain somewhere. Now that I am retired I have some space in my brain. My job was fixing problem areas in printing equipment which involved a lot of machine redesign. For the first 10 years I made a lot of drastic changes but the remaining 5 years after that I was left with the seemingly unsolvable. It consumed me.
@@WinkysWorkshop Work can definitely consume your thoughts. Even working as a finish carpenter I would have work on my mind in the evening. The times that I was working for my self my mind was constantly on the job, tooling and how I could be more efficient. I always worked on my cars and everything else around the house. When I started getting involved with machining and started studying alot I started to wake up in the middle of the night with projects in my mind. Instead of a normal 30 year old I wouldn't be dreaming about girls I would be engineering something. Pretty crazy huh!!!
excellent idea.
Thank you! Cheers!
nice work dr winky
Thank you 🙂
Nice job and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Sweet tool post! Can a tool post be sweet? Don't know for sure but Winky can make some sweet videos!!!!
Yes you can! Ha
You got a thumbs up just for the intro!
I had fun with that... the running lathe reminded me of old time movie reels. Thanks!
Nice toolpost. I think just for speed and convenience, I still prefer the Aloris tool post. Just run the tool to clear the end of the part when you set the tailstock position. Good job!
I agree. It would be nice to have a tail stock with a little more reach.
Brilliant
thanks!
New work thought you might have considered removing the cross slide and fitting a solid tool holder 😊
I've thought about removing the compound. For some work this would be okay but I use the compound a lot.
Armstrong type tool holders, for lantern style, are available in left and right angled. Might look at those.
Yeah... I've had a few of those. I use a lot of inserts and the Armstrong holders are for HSS. Maybe I'll bend a few tool holders! Ha. Check out part 2. I made a big improvement.
Just glue the custom shim to the tool holders with locktite once you have the height set.
The nice thing about the style you built is you can set the tool stick out wherever you need.
Cheers
That's a good idea although I have a new approach now. Video coming soon
Nice work. I wonder if two angled shims would stay in place. Much easier to adjust.
Great minds think alike! I thought the same. However, somebody else comments that there was a tool post made with a threaded spacer. So I made one. I may have it posted tomorrow.
Cant believe I hadn't seen this video before.
I have a similar issue with my hendey, I cant really describe it accurately. But it's just like a QCTP or the 4 way tool holders just dont seem to be the best setup for it.
However, my 2557 logan it works like a champ.
I am currently sorting out (slowly) how best to work with the lantern on the hendey. For me speed really isnt a big issue. But I definitely like the setup your building here
I modified the holder after this video. I think I like the quick change post a little better but this is more solid. ruclips.net/video/ZYNSaqv73rs/видео.html
@@WinkysWorkshop I know I would prefer a QCTP on my hendey also, just dont really seam like it works very effectively though
@@craigtate5930 I think what they call a 4 way is the most solid but you have to use shims. Quick change posts are not as solid.
I have an idea that might work. cut your shim from the top corner to the bottom corner. the length of it making 2 wedges. then figure a way to put a screw through the length so as you tighten the screw the shim goes higher and when you loosen the screw in goes lower and then tighten down with the post screw
Another person said the same... and I actually thought about it too. Then somebody said they had one from a very old lathe with a threaded disk so I made one. The video may be posted tomorrow.
Nobody seems to get it about the old lantern-style tool posts. The rocker is for forged tools, and using hss blanks by themselves. With the Armstrong holder you put away the rocker and turn the washer over, adjusting tool height by sliding the tool in the angled hole in the holder. No more headache
Makes sense. I was please with this design of this tool post for using a standard inserrt holder but it had some problems. To make it work well you would need several angled holders. The quick change post is better.
Lantern style tool holders have angles that keep the slide back away from the chuck.
Yes they do. I think this was a good solid tool post and in part two I made a cool height adjuster but ultimately the quick change post had advantages that outweigh the shortcomings
Nice work Mark really did beautiful job but couldnt you use the two point back rest mounts opposite of cutting tool position?
Thanks Troy... You lost me on "two point back rest mounts"
@@WinkysWorkshop yes 2 point steady rest bolts on the cross slide not like the other independant steady rest ( 3 point )
As others have said, having a Lantern Style tool post is handy to have when the bulk of the quick change tool holder gets in the way. The one you've made is nicely done.
I've noticed in several of your videos that you have a dangerous habit of leaving the chuck wrench in the chuck. I've seen one flung out of a Monarch across the shop like a frisbee and through a window. So don't let your lathe chuck wrench use you for target practice.
Laying stuff on the lathe's head stock is equally bad. Years ago a guy was running a 24" engine lathe and had the chuck wrench on the head stock. While he was doing something with the change gears he bumped the chuck wrench. It fell off the head stock and hit the forward/reverse lever on the carriage so hard it sheared the stop locating pin off and the lathe started up. The guy was lucky he didn't have his hand in the gear train when it happened.
Here is a photo of a simple way to keep your chuck wrench and other commonly used wrenches close at hand on your lathe. You can grab the chuck wrench without even having to look down for it.
It is annoying, but you have to be your own safety officer in the workshop.
Cheers from NC/USA
i.postimg.cc/NMRgwPTW/IMG-0151.jpg
Totally agree... bad habits. Yes... I need to make a spot for the chuck wrench. I need so also make all my tools more accessible reaching across the lathe is not the best.
The photo I posted also shows my homemade emergency stop. I used an old Sears switch box I'd had for years. The foot pedal is a bar clamped to door padlock hinges. The switch pull-down lever is made so that when the pedal is released the switch lever has to be reset by hand. The linkage is made with heim swivel joints from the riding mower section of the hardware store.
The knife switch in the box isn't suited for constant use because of arcing with the slow action of the switch, but it works fine for an emergency stop and as a disconnect when you've got your hands in the machine and danger of hitting the start/stop switch.
Cheers from NC/USA
@@aceroadholder2185 Looks like a smart setup!
have you thought of turning the big the big washer down a little and threading a knurled nut onto it for height adjustment. I've had good luck with mine .Not my idea I saw it in a popular mechanics magazine more than 40 years ago. I have one done that way on a 17'' Leblond Regal that I take the compound off and put a block same height as the compound in place of it for real heavy turning. Put the compound back on for angles.
Interesting!
Winky I had rather see you dance than ramble on. 😁 I still have the original lantern tool post with my south bend. Takes to long to set it up and adjust tool height and angle. I will stick to my quick change tool post.
I'm leaning the same direction on the quick change although I did figure out a way to eliminate the shims. I may post the video tomorrow if I get the editing done. Dancing needs an inspiration. Like a major accomplishment... like getting the South Bend running. Ha
@@WinkysWorkshopI'm sure you know more about the lathe than I do , but on the original lantern tool post it also has a half moon piece of metal that is used as a spacer also to adjust tool angle. I still have the hole set up that came with mine but it was to time consuming to use. If your not sure what I'm talking about I will send you pictures.
Great video Winky. I am voting with you on the lantern tool post. Lots of times i use the lantern tool post on my Craftsman lathe. Their are jobs it fits better.
Thanks, The quick change is quicker... I'll use this on my South Bend and stick with the QC on my Logan.
On some of the older lathes the cross slide is almost too high to use a QC tool post. I mmay have to adapt one like this.
My Logan is like that with some tool holders. I had to mill .100" off the bottoms of the tool holders.
Not sure why you turn away from the chuck. I was taught that you always turn toward the chuck whenever possible.
Interesting. I'm not sure why it matters although if I mess up and run into the tail stock it's not quite as serious and running into a chuck. There is also the fact that you usually turn smaller features on the tail stock side. Running the tool off the end of the work is easy. If you are turning toward a shoulder timing is critic. So for me I guess the answer is that it's logical.
Suggestion: permanently attach the shim/spacer to the tool holder.
Thanks,
John
I thought about that but the color coding would mean I need to make fewer shims. However... I just addressed this problem another way... video will be posted tomorrow if things go ok.
@@WinkysWorkshop I am guessing making matching "support rings" for each tool holder that you have. I would also guess that you have a limited number of "tool holder heights" so colour code rings for each height.😎
@@paultrgnp - good guess but I I'm just using milled down 1/2 x 1/2 stock under the tool
Would like to point out that there are qc toolposts that go any way you like, in kit form even..thecogwheel.net here on RUclips demonstrates making one. It's basically designed for south bends. Another great resource is Andy Lofquist at Metal Lathe Accessories, he sells unmachined castings and kits for south bends
Wow... cool web site. Lots of stuff. Thanks!
380v power unit lathe?
110V 1/2 HP
Gday, thats a nice tool holder, both of my lathes have the old style 4 way tool holders, no quick change although id like one, I use feeler gauges as shims and I have written on a white board how many thou goes under my main few tool I use and if I change tools I just measure the shims and away we go, its not the fastest way but it works, thanks for sharing mate, much appreciated Winky, cheers Matty
I've never used a 4 way but I'm sure they have the same advantages of a lantern post. They transfer the load to the compound straight down. Quick change tool posts suspend the tool off to one side and create a rotational force. I address the shims in the next video... posting today I hope.
Finish is lateral speed and the size of the tip. If the tip were 5mil it would be smooth. Not practical. Normally a 3 or 4 is. I have some 2 round nose inserts and they are the dickens in making a smooth surface. It likes to create a thread of sorts down the shaft. Now if you have Armstrong tools they might fit there for HSS bits. I built a holder for mine on the quick change post. I needed to use my long boring bar for light cuts. Now I have Armstrong for other jobs.
Yep, you are right. I have some larger radius inserts that cut way smoother. However, the south bend does not cut as smooth as my Logan. With that being said, I can make a deeper cut and remove more with the South Bend. Cuts my Logan would complain about. If I had to guess, I'd say this is sleeves bearings vs ball bearing. With lighter or normal cuts the Logan runs true but the south bend has bearing clearance.
Nice piece of work . One thing that I did to make my lantern tool post more useful is to replace the thick washer/collar you have as a base support with a two piece collar with fine threads that can be easily adjusted for height to eliminate the need for shims. Not a lot of adjustment there, but enough to do the job. And yes I replaced the tee nut to spread the load/pulling force on the lips. I do still use the armstrong style holders with the lantern tool post.
Dang! I love the height adjustment idea!!!! Can I use your name if I use it in a video??? Let me know.
@@WinkysWorkshop Feel free to use my name if you like, but it was not my idea. I am sure that I read it in a magazine like "Projects in Metal" or similar. If you are worried about the threads backing off you can use a brass tipped screw to lock it, similar to the dials on the compound and cross slide. I have not found this to be a problem, but I have never used it to make a heavy interrupted cut. Hope to see it in a video. I certainly like the new and improved cut-off tool holder you presented a couple of months previous.
That's the way to go for sure, but there's plenty of diameter so I would do the outer ring split with a cross bolt lock like the good die lock rings. I've never been a fan of smashing threads as a locking mechanism.
make me one
.
The intro has gone all sepia effect. It must be the vintage machinery effect
Ha... even the music sounded vintage... very strange!
Lantern tool posts take too long? You're just slow and inexperienced. BTW what happens when you use HSS on a QCTP and resharpen ? You have to reset the height! Do you use HSS or are you.............inexperienced???
I use a quick change on my other lathe. This lathe didn't have a tool post when I got and I was experimenting. If you actually watched the video you might have noticed this post is very easy to adjust the height.... like in two seconds. With that being said, I like the quick change a little better. You asked me if I was inexperienced. In fact you asked twice. I suppose I am inexperienced in many areas but I don't see this as a bad thing. In fact it is quite often a huge plus. I have no preconceived ideas of accepted method. I am able to think and create something much better (sometimes anyway). So go ahead and sit on your mountain top looking down on what you see as inferior while these inexperienced rookies take giant steps into a much better future.
Winky, sorry my comments were directed at some replies below where some mentioned that the lanterns and tool holders aren't useful. I should have been specific. Aren't rigid, too hard to set up. I think you made a good toolpost. Yes, QCTP gets in the way all the time making small parts. Your video is very good IMHO. I still prefer the rocker. No need to shim. Ruined T slots are from crashing the lathe and ripping out the post. I'm not a fan of crashing. Lantern posts are plenty rigid for light lathes. I can easily take .100 cut in cold rolled on a South Bend 9. A sharp HSS bit. Low rpm. slow feed. Watch the chip curl off to the floor. I don't do it all the time but it will do it. Your Logan will do it. I had one. There a little more rigid than a SB9 or 10k. BTW don't cut to the right to much on a SB. There's no real thrust bearing cutting that way. Only a fiber washer. Not good.
@@karlkemble9098 - Thanks Karl. I messed up. I thought your original comment was on the second part of this video .For most stuff I like the QC post better but I also improved on the design in this video in part two. Check it out. ruclips.net/video/ZYNSaqv73rs/видео.html