Thanks for the video. I was able to successfully remove and install a new water pump in my 1989 Toyota 4X4 pick up truck by following the instructions in this video. Saved me a bunch of money!😀
Man what a great voice you have bro. Outstanding video and explanation. You sound very honest. You must be a great mechanic in all aspects. Thanks for your step by step explanation.
Wow Pete .. Amazing video ... I have been a mechanic for 40 years and YOU have thought of EVERYTHING .... I sent this to a friend on how to do it as I am not close enough to guide him through it or do it for him. Thanks for a GREAT VIDEO
best water pump replacement tutorial for my toyota ive come across so far. Very informative and organised. video and edit is excellent! Thank you! sub'd
Really great video, you covered each step and more. One thing I ran into with a Toyota 4 cyl, they made two different size water pumps and the four studs that mount the fan clutch were not the same size, the water pumps look identical, until you try and put the pulley on. It's really great that you show, and mention this early. I take the pulley with me and match it right there before leaving the parts store. I have both size pulleys and fan clutch's for any future issues. I keep a brand new water pump for my 22R on my shelf that I know fits. Great video, thank you.
Another great video Pete, I'd mention that these pumps come in two impeller sizes, 60 and 69mm (sorry metric car, metric impellers). I was sent the 60mm by mistake, luckily I caught it before installation. For the unwashed 60mm is 2.36" or just under 2 3/8" and 69mm is 2.71" or just under 2 3/4".
Thank you for the video. My truck was running hot driving to the closest gas station. I followed your instructions and I just did my test drive. Temp gauge stayed below the half way mark and I was able to drive it longer than I have in weeks. Thanks again. Your doing God’s work my friend. Can you put a link for that burping radiator cap? I used your link to order the tacky gasket sealer my mechanic buddies looked at me like was idiot for not using RTV. None of them wanted to help me so they can KMA. Lol
Glad I was able to help. The radiator cap I like with the lever vent are made by Stant. Here's an amazon link to a version of that cap: amzn.to/3yjU7CQ The cap in this link may not fit your particular application, so be sure to cross reference your vehicle make/model/year, etc. before ordering. Any local auto-parts store should have them too. It takes longer to do the job with an actual gasket and Hi Tack, but the results are better, cleanup is easier if you ever have to go back into it, and you don't have to worry about a blob of RTV breaking off inside the engine and floating around until it finds a galley to plug or obstruct...
Thank you Pete for yet another awesome video. I have a 1990 Toyota Deluxe 4X4 with the 22re, and I was told the best way to burp the cooling system was to put the front tires up on ramps so the radiator cap is the highest part of the system. And run the motor until all the air is forced out while the motor is running. They say at times the air gets stuck in the heater core ???
Yeah, it's all about filling from the highest point you can. Honestly that's the main reason I have that backflush T in that upper heater hose because that becomes the highest point in the cooling system and the air will escape right out of that T when I have it open. I also top off the system right to the top of that T. Ever since I started doing that I've never had a problem with air pockets in the system.
I was losing water from both weep holes so i put on a new pump. I am having to use my 4 old fan studs as Pep Boys did Not supply them. Used a thin vice grip to remove the studs.
Not a problem with the water pump mounting. The bolts are all going into blind holes surrounded by gasket. There is one bolt on the 22R series oil pump housing that you do have to put sealant on though. My 22R front main seal video covers that: ruclips.net/video/5eozfLpEJds/видео.html
Not sure what the brand was, but for lower torque I like using an in-lb torque wrench. For really small torque I switch to a n-m torque wrench designed for carbon bicycle components. I have 5 different torque wrenches in my tool box...lol
Hey Pete great videos.I have a '87 22r w/a Weber carb it has a stock Toyota fuel pump and no fuel regulator. My question is can too much fuel pressure cause the engine to diesel when shut off?
Could be a couple things. Lean condition will cause that, buildup of carbon on the pistons will do that, timing can also be a contributor. But yeah, you should run a fuel pressure regulator with a Weber carb. The Weber wants 2.5-3 lbs of pressure. The stock toyota pump runs around 7lbs if I remember right... Check out LC Engineerings tech page on the carbs: old.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/carbtech.html The original Toyota Carbs had a fuel-cut solenoid that when you turned the truck off actually shut off the flow line of fuel inside the carb to help prevent dieseling or run-on.
Could I use the high tack sealant with a gasket for the oil pan? Or would you recommend just using the black fipg? Great video by the way, very helpful!!
I use Hi-tack on anything that has a gasket (and isn't hot exhaust or intake). I'll only use FIPG or Ultra-Black RTV when I'm not using a gasket. Now, that being said, with the oil pan, if I remember correctly, only the really early trucks used a gasket between the pan and the block. The later models had a recess formed in the lip of the pan and you're supposed to run a bead of FIPG in that recess and then bolt it up to the bottom of the block, no gasket. The recess in the pan lip makes the sealant act like an o-ring when you squish it up there against the bottom of the block. Then of course you want to take your time and evenly torque down the pan bolts so you get a uniform squish on the sealant. Just don't use so much that it spooges out and breaks off balls of it into the pan where it can start clogging oil galleys and such if it gets picked up by the crank or blocks the oil pickup screen.
I just did a timing chain replacement and it’s leaking both oil and coolant in 3 or 4 locations, I suspect my error may have been improperly putting the gaskets. I’ll use permeated this time for the water pump. Can the permatex high also be used for the timing cover gaskets?
I put it on every paper or cork type gasket. Basically everything except exhaust and crush type gaskets (head gaskets, exhaust collectors, etc.) I do use it on the timing cover gaskets for the 22r. Holds them in place real well while you get the timing cover up onto the front of the block.
1977 20R toyota pick up.....gonna go with no paper gasket instead use Permatex water pump gasket maker. Wanna buy correct new bolts expert at hardware gonna measure old. 1 long bolt center ......8 total. 1 shorter bolt. 1 bolt with bigger washer. 1 bolt with small washer makes no sense like the shorter one. Total holes are 8. A neighbor said shorter bolt goes in hole tip of pump, left side of fan looking at 20R engine label looking at windshield from front of grill. Tried that but it does not catch. Short bolt catches at top hole on pump.......OK. Still gonna get new bolts. Even long bolt. Tips of bolts look clean. Bolt ends closest to pump sort of rusty though I cleaned not like threads that screw into engine block. Any advice....
I would pull the water pump first and get all that cleaned up, then pull the oil pump. You wouldn't want coolant dribbling into your oil pan if the oil pump was off and you went to take off the water pump. There's always some coolant left in the water pump that spills when you pull it. But yes, good time to do both when you're that far into the front end. If you haven't seen it yet, check out my video on the front main seal, that video covers oil pump removal and install. ruclips.net/video/5eozfLpEJds/видео.html
Nope. For waterpump replacement You won't touch the distributor or the timing chain at all so there is no need to set the engine to TDC #1. On the 22R series engines removing and replacing external belts (alternator, water pump, power steering, etc.) have no effect on ignition timing.
I usually buy my automotive hard parts locally if possible to support local business and to make sure I have the right part at the counter. The small newton-meter torque wrench (Nm) is a usually found in cycling tools suppliers as carbon bike parts are very sensitive to torque. I have amazon affiliate links to many of the products and tools I use in the video in the video description. Here's one of those links to a torque wrench like the one in the video that reads in Nm (Newton meters): amzn.to/3rFiyqW Thanks for watching my video!
A small one that reads in Nm. Normally used for smaller bicycle hardware. This is a similar (if not the same one re-branded) torque wrench on Amazon (affiliate link): amzn.to/3rFiyqW
Hey wheelie pete love the videos i just replaced timing chain in my 1990 Toyota pickup and when i had taken out spark plugs i noticed on 1st cylinder the spark plug had sandy grit on it so found out that is caused by valve seals leaking oil into the cylinder so decided to replace and saw a couple videos how to replace without taking the head off so i did replaced seals but noticed leaking around head gasket on outside the motor when i started to put everything back together i kind of scared now to start up any advice what i should do?
Did you manage to do the seals without removing the rocker arm assembly? I guess it can be done if you remove the adjuster and the be really careful not to drop the valve into the cylinder too far. The first thing that came to mind when you said it was leaking around the head gasket was that you pulled the rocker arm assembly which would mean you took the head bolts out and the pressure was taken off the head gasket and things started seeping. If you didn't pull the head bolts, then nothing really should have changed. If you did pull the head bolts then there's a chance the head gasket is compromised. You could just fire it up and see how it runs. Might get lucky if you removed the head bolts and then put them back in that things didn't move too much and it will seal back up. Generally speaking the old "replacing valve seals without removing the head" is for very old rigs that had the kinds of seals that would crack and degrade relatively quickly. With modern engines that's not really the case and by the time the valve seals are leaking the valve guides are usually shot and you really should pull the head and do a full head job.
@@unclekory Darn...yeah that's probably what's seeping then. Did you drain the coolant before removing the head bolts? If not, then I would probably do an oil change and a coolant change (if stuff is seeping from the edges of the head then you probably have coolant contamination in the oil as they both (oil and coolant) have passages through the head and block that run through the head gasket), you should then pull all the spark plugs and crank the engine over to try and clear anything that may have seeped into the cylinders (I'm thinking worst case here that enough coolant went into a cylinder to fill it up enough to hydro-lock it.) Once you get all that done, fire it up and it's probably going to smoke for a bit if either coolant or oil got into the cylinders. If it continues to smoke bad after you get it warmed up then the head gasket is probably shot. Look for oil or coolant being pushed out under pressure at the seam of the head and block also.
@@WheeliePete so i did what you said and didnt run right right off the bat and kept watch on coolant and started getting oil in it no smoke but was running awful so stopped and drained oil it was a light brown and pulled plugs looked wet on top of cylinder so going to tear down again and replace head gasket any words of wisdom before i start
Man, those are getting rare... I found a set for my truck, but I'm having to build back some of the broken off mounting bosses in the plastic by shaping JB weld where the mount broke...
Generally, you would use the fan belt to hold that thing still while you break those nuts loose. If you've got the fan belt off put it back on and put it under good tension. If that's not enough, take the fan belt off and put a strap wrench around it to hold it. If that doesn't work, take a really small pry bar or a long skinny screwdriver and jam it between a fan mounting nut and the fan mount to keep it from turning while you loosen a nut on the other side. Then work your way around the 4 nuts like that.
Quick question, I used the high tack on my timing cover gaskets and unfortunately after everything was put back together, I have a leak on the bottom left of the cover where it meets the block. Do you think I would have been better off using ultra grey instead of the high tack? I applied it the same way you did in your video, but I might have skimped out a bit on the cover, not applying a thick enough coat of it. Any help would be appreciated! I'm going to take it all apart and redo it again, and I'd like to get it right this time lol
Where exactly is your leak? Is it actually the timing cover to block, or is it up by the overlap where the head/block/timing cover all overlap? That overlap of the three at the top of the timing cover is very problematic and requires that you put RTV across the joint there of the block and timing cover and then drop the head gasket and head on. A lot of people get a leak there too if they have the block machined, but don't have the timing cover machined to the same height as the block. If your leak is down low and it's coming from between the timing cover and the block, make sure it isn't from the oil pan overlap with the block and the timing cover. Make sure all the timing cover bolts are installed and torqued properly. If all that fails and you do end up pulling it all apart again, I would take a careful look at the sealing surfaces, make sure the timing cover isn't warped and then super-clean everything. before you seal it all up again. I'm not a fan of RTV just because it likes to break off and plug oil galleys inside the engine, but if you've got a lot of gouges in either the sealing surface on the block and/or timing cover, RTV will seal a more imperfect surface than Hi-Tack.
@@WheeliePete So I'm 98% positive it's coming from the lower left cover / block meeting area. Initially thought it was the oil pan not sealing, so dropped that and redid it. Still got a leak from the same exact area. I can see the steady drip of oil coming from the top side of the rtv on the oil pan and directly in that corner when the engine runs. I put high tack on the top of the timing cover where it meets the bottom side of the head and that seemed to seal very well. The high tack did well everywhere on the cover, minus the one spot on the bottom left. The timing cover is brand new, so I'm assuming it isn't warped. The other weird thing is I'm getting oil seep out of the bottom left bolt on the timing cover. The one that runs through the smog pump bracket / timing cover / and into the block. So I'm getting oil into that area somehow. That's what makes me think the gasket failed in that corner, or I didn't apply the high tack thick enough possibly?
The gasket is what's really supposed to seal the surfaces together, the high-tack is there to hold the gasket in place and fill in really minor surface imperfections. Pull that bolt and make sure it's the right length bolt and isn't bottoming out in a blind hole in the block. I've also seen before where when people remove a bracket, or ever a washer, a bolt becomes just a smidge too long and bottoms out in the hole, but still looks like it's clamping the cover, when really it's just flush with the cover. If that bolt is just flush with the cover and not actually torquing it down, that would explain the leak right there also. Another less appealing thought would be a crack in the timing cover casting right at the bolt boss allowing oil to get into the bolt hole casting.
@@WheeliePete Well I fixed it. It ended up being a small section where I didn't scrape the old gasket well enough and I was dealing with a double gasket. If not for that, I'm sure the high tack would have worked perfect the first time. Now though I noticed the oil is looking milky. Do you think it's possible that when I pulled the cover the coolant fell down into the pan and just mixed with the new oil I put in?
Around 25 minutes you talk about coolant hitting the ground. I have been having fuse issues lately, and while looking under the hood I noticed a coolant leak and the reservoir being low/that possibly that knock you were talking about at the beginning of the video. Is it possible the coolant is messing with the ground, causing fuses to pop? Thanks!
It's possible, but but not likely that coolant is causing the issues. Fuses routinely is probably being caused by a wire that has gotten rubbed and is grounding out. Is it the same fuse that is blowing or different ones? What I'm talking about in the video has more to do with improperly grounded aluminum parts (like the head) that when stray current gets into the coolant it eats away at the aluminum over time. If the fuse that is blowing is on the same one you'll need to start working your way through that circuit, looking for the fault. Start at the grounds and make sure they are all good, clean bare metal, and then start looking for frayed or loose wiring on that circuit.
WheeliePete Thanks for the reply! I figured out my short issue actually (made a mountain out of a mole hill with that one). While doing so, I just visually inspected and felt the water pump, and I don’t see any leaks there. I did notice the top of the front differential is wet though. Any ideas of where a coolant leak could come from to spill onto the differential?
There's some hoses and pipes over on that side. Cold be leaking and traveling down along things until dripping. One that gets overlooked is if you have a carburetor there is sometimes a small coolant line to the bottom of the intake manifold under the carb.
The reason that the timing cover bolt that passes through the water pump, timing cover, and into the block doesn't need sealer is because it is being run into a blind hole in the block and has the timing cover gasket and the water pump gasket protecting the bolt hole from oil and coolant exposure. Toyota is pretty good about calling out special procedures when needed in their factory service manuals (FSM). I think you might be remembering that the top most bolt on the oil pump DOES require sealant. That bolt hole is exposed to oil on the backside and without sealant you can get oil pushing back up the threads and weeping around the head. I just put a post up on this channel's community page with pictures from Toyota factory service manuals of the two assemblies. Toyota is pretty good about calling out special assembly procedures in their FSM's. Link to the community page: ruclips.net/channel/UCI85rruZT8T-rq2EEmrvsQgcommunity
I've got a video on the front main seal for the 22R series engines that covers the removal and replacement of the oil pump also: ruclips.net/video/5eozfLpEJds/видео.html
Permatex water pump & thermostat GASKET MAKER instead of paper gasket. 1977 20R Toyota pick up. I APPRECIATE YOUR OPINION. Bought STAINLESS STEEL new bolts. Not the long bolt using old.
Should be fine. Don't go crazy with the gasket maker. You don't want blobs of that stuff breaking off on the inside and clogging/jamming your cooling system
@@WheeliePete 😁 Thank U.... Saw video, the guy just patted it on with 1 finger.......everybody else put fat rope looking SQUEEZE from tube all around....was not gonna do it that way.....common sense said overflow to inside once screws are tightened for sure. Pile of gunky stuff. 💋😘 HAPPY HOLIDAYS!👍🙏
@@WheeliePete last question. My pump has 8 holes. Shape the same 1977 20R......aside from the long bolt all are the same length. There is 1 odd bolt shorter. Hardware said it did not look broken. Do you have a SHORTIE BOLT anywhere?
@@WheeliePete hoping U could tell me if U had SHORTIE SCREW/BOLT. Got new bolts, did not have stainless steel except the shortie, but; I want to get a bolt like the rest dame size but for the long bolt......center. 🎄🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎉HAPPY HOLIDAYS NEW YEAR!
There shouldn't be an odd short bolt in the system. I bet someone lost one of the alignment studs and replaced it with a short bolt. A bolt will be fine, just make sure it isn't bottoming out in the hole and not actually clamping.
It's been my experience that the "Aisin" branded water pumps (original OEM manufacturer) are excellent and last a long time. It's kind of hit or miss with aftermarket manufacturers. The condition of your coolant plays a much larger role in how fast your pump wears out. If your coolant is dirty with a lot of particles floating around it's going to shorten the life of the pump. That being said, no, it's not a prone to failure part in the 22R series engines.
Since you said "Hilux" I'm assuming you're not in the U.S.? Is your rig by chance the Toyota Hilux Surf LN130 1989-1993 model with the 2.4 turbo diesel 2LTE engine code? If it is, that would explain the amount of coolant as those engines call for 9.5L with a manual or 11L with the automatic gearbox. I'm in the U.S. (which also explains why I listed capacities in quarts and gallons) and we never got the diesel motors unfortunately. My video is specific to the U.S. 22R series engines which ran from 1981 to 1995 in the U.S. trucks before they switched to the RZ series motors in the Tacoma's. The cooling system capacities did fluctuate a bit over the years depending on year, 4x4, manual or automatic trans, etc. I should have done a little better job in the video announcing that the capacities listed were "approximate" and that you should fill the system to capacity as needed in your specific application. I've put a little update to that effect in the video details section on RUclips.
I might be able to help. Sometimes it a bit hard over the internet to pinpoint issues, but I'll do what I can. Shoot me an email at WheeliePete@outlook.com
UPDATE EDIT ! ( NOT ALL 22R WATER PUMPS ARE CREATED EQUAL) YEAR MATTERS ...'JUST FYI'... I watched the video . Was extremely careful doing this water pump just the way is shown in this video . Filled the radiator with new coolant and it is leaking around the top of the water pump before even starting the engine . I have no idea what I did wrong
If it's leaking water without any pressure in the system then there's a really big gap in the gasket somewhere or a cracked casting on the new water pump, or a very uneven sealing surface on the front of the timing cover (although if it wasn't leaking before it's probably not the timing cover.) Unfortunately you're probably going to have to take it off and check it and then reseal it again. Make sure all the mounting bolts and studs are in.
@@WheeliePete brother , thanks for the reply so quickly. I love your channel. Here's the news ,,,,,I just took it back off a few minutes ago . It's the wrong dang water pump they sent me . I didn't realize there was a slight difference in that top edge . My truck is an 86 and has the curved top . This pump is straight across there . Man ole man . From what I've read so far this pump is for 84 models and earlier. All the holes line up great but that top edge don't . I'm just finishing up my rebuild and was about to crank this thing when I saw the water dripping on my final checks . Thank you much brother
@@WheeliePete it was funny because I did it on the bench , clean enough to eat off of . I was thinking the whole time to myself " there's no way I can do it any better the second time "
Oh man...that's a bummer! But I'm glad you got it figured out. At least you caught it before you fired up the truck. That would have made a much bigger mess if the pump had started working with the leak being that big!
Thanks for the video. I was able to successfully remove and install a new water pump in my 1989 Toyota 4X4 pick up truck by following the instructions in this video. Saved me a bunch of money!😀
Truly thank you. If not for your detailed video, i would've had no clue where to even start.
Man what a great voice you have bro.
Outstanding video and explanation. You sound very honest. You must be a great mechanic in all aspects.
Thanks for your step by step explanation.
Wow Pete .. Amazing video ... I have been a mechanic for 40 years and YOU have thought of EVERYTHING .... I sent this to a friend on how to do it as I am not close enough to guide him through it or do it for him. Thanks for a GREAT VIDEO
best water pump replacement tutorial for my toyota ive come across so far. Very informative and organised. video and edit is excellent! Thank you! sub'd
Very detailed video with lots of good information and no unnecessary talk. Thank you.
Pete, thanks to your informative video, I successfully replaced my water pump in my 1994 4x4 22re. Excellent instructional video. Thank you!💪
Great timing! I've got a new water pump for my 22re sitting on my bench right now.
Once again your video directed me through another repair on my 88 4runner like a real mechanic! Thank you fellow Oregonian.
Really great video, you covered each step and more. One thing I ran into with a Toyota 4 cyl, they made two different size water pumps and the four studs that mount the fan clutch were not the same size, the water pumps look identical, until you try and put the pulley on. It's really great that you show, and mention this early. I take the pulley with me and match it right there before leaving the parts store. I have both size pulleys and fan clutch's for any future issues. I keep a brand new water pump for my 22R on my shelf that I know fits. Great video, thank you.
Love your to-the-point, no nonsense presentations. Thanks for the great info.
Love your vids. Rebuilding my whole motor now. So all your vids are key. Thanks
This problem just started with my 83. This video has been very helpful.
Great video!! Love the detailed video! Thanks!!!!!!
Far and beyond most needed prep...but excellent practice....I like your style!
Possibly the best video ever made
Great video very thorough !!
Very knowledgeable, detailed mechanic. Thank you so much.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time.
Thank you Pete. Great video!
Nothin like workin ona engine from the good old days!👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent video, thanks!
Great video and detail, thanks a lot
what an amazing job well explained and lots of great details. Impressive
Awesome video and explanation. Thanks
Your videos are great, thank you
Another great video Pete, I'd mention that these pumps come in two impeller sizes, 60 and 69mm (sorry metric car, metric impellers). I was sent the 60mm by mistake, luckily I caught it before installation. For the unwashed 60mm is 2.36" or just under 2 3/8" and 69mm is 2.71" or just under 2 3/4".
REALLY a great video! Thx a lot!
Thank You great video, helped me a lot to get it done in the right way
Excellent video. I appreciate it, I definitely subscribed 👍
I forgot to replace my radiator cap once. Blew the head on my 22re in my 83 celica. Great video
What a pro...clean job!
Excellent video. Thank you
Awesome video. Thanks for the details. I'm finding a drip on anit freeze under my 90 22re. Guess it's that weep hole you was talking about.
Great video
Well Done! Thanks.
Very nice!!!
Thank you for the video. My truck was running hot driving to the closest gas station. I followed your instructions and I just did my test drive. Temp gauge stayed below the half way mark and I was able to drive it longer than I have in weeks. Thanks again. Your doing God’s work my friend. Can you put a link for that burping radiator cap? I used your link to order the tacky gasket sealer my mechanic buddies looked at me like was idiot for not using RTV. None of them wanted to help me so they can KMA. Lol
Glad I was able to help. The radiator cap I like with the lever vent are made by Stant. Here's an amazon link to a version of that cap: amzn.to/3yjU7CQ The cap in this link may not fit your particular application, so be sure to cross reference your vehicle make/model/year, etc. before ordering. Any local auto-parts store should have them too. It takes longer to do the job with an actual gasket and Hi Tack, but the results are better, cleanup is easier if you ever have to go back into it, and you don't have to worry about a blob of RTV breaking off inside the engine and floating around until it finds a galley to plug or obstruct...
Holy shit thanks this was very well made!
Thanks!
Wow Pete! Great quality videos. Still miss the classic yellow that truck was. Or even the Bright yellow it was the second time.
I've actually been getting an itchy rattle can finger lately...might have to buy a case or two of bright yellow... :-))
@@WheeliePete Looks like you aren't in the burbs anymore. I hope you got more space to do a paint job. Maybe a wheeliepete rattle can tutorial.
Thank you Pete for yet another awesome video. I have a 1990 Toyota Deluxe 4X4 with the 22re, and I was told the best way to burp the cooling system was to put the front tires up on ramps so the radiator cap is the highest part of the system. And run the motor until all the air is forced out while the motor is running. They say at times the air gets stuck in the heater core ???
Yeah, it's all about filling from the highest point you can. Honestly that's the main reason I have that backflush T in that upper heater hose because that becomes the highest point in the cooling system and the air will escape right out of that T when I have it open. I also top off the system right to the top of that T. Ever since I started doing that I've never had a problem with air pockets in the system.
Thanks for your comprehensive explanation and details as I am going to replace the water pump on my 84 Celica with the 22RE engine here in Australia 👍
I was losing water from both weep holes so i put on a new pump. I am having to use my 4 old fan studs as Pep Boys did Not supply them. Used a thin vice grip to remove the studs.
Thanks Pete for another great video. I was curious if you have to add a sealant to any of the bolts that may be exposed to oil?
Not a problem with the water pump mounting. The bolts are all going into blind holes surrounded by gasket. There is one bolt on the 22R series oil pump housing that you do have to put sealant on though. My 22R front main seal video covers that: ruclips.net/video/5eozfLpEJds/видео.html
Don’t suppose you could make a video of how to Install an oil pressure gauge to a 22r engine ?
Great video. What torque wrench are you using?
Not sure what the brand was, but for lower torque I like using an in-lb torque wrench. For really small torque I switch to a n-m torque wrench designed for carbon bicycle components. I have 5 different torque wrenches in my tool box...lol
Hey Pete great videos.I have a '87 22r w/a Weber carb it has a stock Toyota fuel pump and no fuel regulator. My question is can too much fuel pressure cause the engine to diesel when shut off?
Could be a couple things. Lean condition will cause that, buildup of carbon on the pistons will do that, timing can also be a contributor. But yeah, you should run a fuel pressure regulator with a Weber carb. The Weber wants 2.5-3 lbs of pressure. The stock toyota pump runs around 7lbs if I remember right... Check out LC Engineerings tech page on the carbs: old.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/carbtech.html The original Toyota Carbs had a fuel-cut solenoid that when you turned the truck off actually shut off the flow line of fuel inside the carb to help prevent dieseling or run-on.
Could I use the high tack sealant with a gasket for the oil pan? Or would you recommend just using the black fipg? Great video by the way, very helpful!!
I use Hi-tack on anything that has a gasket (and isn't hot exhaust or intake). I'll only use FIPG or Ultra-Black RTV when I'm not using a gasket. Now, that being said, with the oil pan, if I remember correctly, only the really early trucks used a gasket between the pan and the block. The later models had a recess formed in the lip of the pan and you're supposed to run a bead of FIPG in that recess and then bolt it up to the bottom of the block, no gasket. The recess in the pan lip makes the sealant act like an o-ring when you squish it up there against the bottom of the block. Then of course you want to take your time and evenly torque down the pan bolts so you get a uniform squish on the sealant. Just don't use so much that it spooges out and breaks off balls of it into the pan where it can start clogging oil galleys and such if it gets picked up by the crank or blocks the oil pickup screen.
@@WheeliePete Great advice, thank you! I'll be sure to check the style of pan once I remove it off the vehicle
I just did a timing chain replacement and it’s leaking both oil and coolant in 3 or 4 locations, I suspect my error may have been improperly putting the gaskets. I’ll use permeated this time for the water pump.
Can the permatex high also be used for the timing cover gaskets?
You can use high-tack on both sides of any paper or cork gaskets. Don't use it on head gaskets or exhaust gaskets.
بعد شُكر الله
والثناء عليه سُبحآنُه .
Thank for
" الله " Allah .
شُكـراً لك .
Good job ,
keep up the
good work !!!
Do you recommend high tack for timing cover gaskets as well?
I put it on every paper or cork type gasket. Basically everything except exhaust and crush type gaskets (head gaskets, exhaust collectors, etc.) I do use it on the timing cover gaskets for the 22r. Holds them in place real well while you get the timing cover up onto the front of the block.
1977 20R toyota pick up.....gonna go with no paper gasket instead use
Permatex water pump gasket maker.
Wanna buy correct new bolts expert at hardware gonna measure old.
1 long bolt center ......8 total.
1 shorter bolt.
1 bolt with bigger washer.
1 bolt with small washer makes no sense like the shorter one.
Total holes are 8.
A neighbor said shorter bolt goes in hole tip of pump, left side of fan looking at 20R engine label looking at windshield from front of grill.
Tried that but it does not catch.
Short bolt catches at top hole on pump.......OK.
Still gonna get new bolts.
Even long bolt.
Tips of bolts look clean.
Bolt ends closest to pump sort of rusty though I cleaned not like threads that screw into engine block.
Any advice....
I need to do both the water pump and oil pump on my 22re. Make sense to do them both at the same time? Thanks
I would pull the water pump first and get all that cleaned up, then pull the oil pump. You wouldn't want coolant dribbling into your oil pan if the oil pump was off and you went to take off the water pump. There's always some coolant left in the water pump that spills when you pull it. But yes, good time to do both when you're that far into the front end. If you haven't seen it yet, check out my video on the front main seal, that video covers oil pump removal and install. ruclips.net/video/5eozfLpEJds/видео.html
so you dont necessarily need to top dead center it before starting all the work? please answer .. Great Video!!!!
Nope. For waterpump replacement You won't touch the distributor or the timing chain at all so there is no need to set the engine to TDC #1. On the 22R series engines removing and replacing external belts (alternator, water pump, power steering, etc.) have no effect on ignition timing.
@@WheeliePete thank you so much i was able to change the water pump myself :)
Where did you get the new water pump and torque wrench?
I usually buy my automotive hard parts locally if possible to support local business and to make sure I have the right part at the counter. The small newton-meter torque wrench (Nm) is a usually found in cycling tools suppliers as carbon bike parts are very sensitive to torque. I have amazon affiliate links to many of the products and tools I use in the video in the video description. Here's one of those links to a torque wrench like the one in the video that reads in Nm (Newton meters): amzn.to/3rFiyqW Thanks for watching my video!
What torque wrench did you use here?
A small one that reads in Nm. Normally used for smaller bicycle hardware. This is a similar (if not the same one re-branded) torque wrench on Amazon (affiliate link): amzn.to/3rFiyqW
Hey wheelie pete love the videos i just replaced timing chain in my 1990 Toyota pickup and when i had taken out spark plugs i noticed on 1st cylinder the spark plug had sandy grit on it so found out that is caused by valve seals leaking oil into the cylinder so decided to replace and saw a couple videos how to replace without taking the head off so i did replaced seals but noticed leaking around head gasket on outside the motor when i started to put everything back together i kind of scared now to start up any advice what i should do?
Did you manage to do the seals without removing the rocker arm assembly? I guess it can be done if you remove the adjuster and the be really careful not to drop the valve into the cylinder too far. The first thing that came to mind when you said it was leaking around the head gasket was that you pulled the rocker arm assembly which would mean you took the head bolts out and the pressure was taken off the head gasket and things started seeping. If you didn't pull the head bolts, then nothing really should have changed. If you did pull the head bolts then there's a chance the head gasket is compromised. You could just fire it up and see how it runs. Might get lucky if you removed the head bolts and then put them back in that things didn't move too much and it will seal back up. Generally speaking the old "replacing valve seals without removing the head" is for very old rigs that had the kinds of seals that would crack and degrade relatively quickly. With modern engines that's not really the case and by the time the valve seals are leaking the valve guides are usually shot and you really should pull the head and do a full head job.
@@WheeliePete ya i had to pull head bolts to get to valve seals so if i fire it up what signs should i look for to know that gasket is compromised
@@unclekory Darn...yeah that's probably what's seeping then. Did you drain the coolant before removing the head bolts? If not, then I would probably do an oil change and a coolant change (if stuff is seeping from the edges of the head then you probably have coolant contamination in the oil as they both (oil and coolant) have passages through the head and block that run through the head gasket), you should then pull all the spark plugs and crank the engine over to try and clear anything that may have seeped into the cylinders (I'm thinking worst case here that enough coolant went into a cylinder to fill it up enough to hydro-lock it.) Once you get all that done, fire it up and it's probably going to smoke for a bit if either coolant or oil got into the cylinders. If it continues to smoke bad after you get it warmed up then the head gasket is probably shot. Look for oil or coolant being pushed out under pressure at the seam of the head and block also.
@@WheeliePete ok ill give that a try thanks so much wheelie pete
@@WheeliePete so i did what you said and didnt run right right off the bat and kept watch on coolant and started getting oil in it no smoke but was running awful so stopped and drained oil it was a light brown and pulled plugs looked wet on top of cylinder so going to tear down again and replace head gasket any words of wisdom before i start
If you just so happen to run across a stash of tilt steering column covers let me know. I need one for my 83 lol
Man, those are getting rare... I found a set for my truck, but I'm having to build back some of the broken off mounting bosses in the plastic by shaping JB weld where the mount broke...
When I try to take off my fan clutch (those 4 10mm bolts) the whole thing spins and I can’t get them off. What should I do?
Generally, you would use the fan belt to hold that thing still while you break those nuts loose. If you've got the fan belt off put it back on and put it under good tension. If that's not enough, take the fan belt off and put a strap wrench around it to hold it. If that doesn't work, take a really small pry bar or a long skinny screwdriver and jam it between a fan mounting nut and the fan mount to keep it from turning while you loosen a nut on the other side. Then work your way around the 4 nuts like that.
Quick question, I used the high tack on my timing cover gaskets and unfortunately after everything was put back together, I have a leak on the bottom left of the cover where it meets the block. Do you think I would have been better off using ultra grey instead of the high tack? I applied it the same way you did in your video, but I might have skimped out a bit on the cover, not applying a thick enough coat of it. Any help would be appreciated! I'm going to take it all apart and redo it again, and I'd like to get it right this time lol
Where exactly is your leak? Is it actually the timing cover to block, or is it up by the overlap where the head/block/timing cover all overlap? That overlap of the three at the top of the timing cover is very problematic and requires that you put RTV across the joint there of the block and timing cover and then drop the head gasket and head on. A lot of people get a leak there too if they have the block machined, but don't have the timing cover machined to the same height as the block. If your leak is down low and it's coming from between the timing cover and the block, make sure it isn't from the oil pan overlap with the block and the timing cover. Make sure all the timing cover bolts are installed and torqued properly. If all that fails and you do end up pulling it all apart again, I would take a careful look at the sealing surfaces, make sure the timing cover isn't warped and then super-clean everything. before you seal it all up again. I'm not a fan of RTV just because it likes to break off and plug oil galleys inside the engine, but if you've got a lot of gouges in either the sealing surface on the block and/or timing cover, RTV will seal a more imperfect surface than Hi-Tack.
@@WheeliePete So I'm 98% positive it's coming from the lower left cover / block meeting area. Initially thought it was the oil pan not sealing, so dropped that and redid it. Still got a leak from the same exact area. I can see the steady drip of oil coming from the top side of the rtv on the oil pan and directly in that corner when the engine runs. I put high tack on the top of the timing cover where it meets the bottom side of the head and that seemed to seal very well. The high tack did well everywhere on the cover, minus the one spot on the bottom left. The timing cover is brand new, so I'm assuming it isn't warped. The other weird thing is I'm getting oil seep out of the bottom left bolt on the timing cover. The one that runs through the smog pump bracket / timing cover / and into the block. So I'm getting oil into that area somehow. That's what makes me think the gasket failed in that corner, or I didn't apply the high tack thick enough possibly?
The gasket is what's really supposed to seal the surfaces together, the high-tack is there to hold the gasket in place and fill in really minor surface imperfections. Pull that bolt and make sure it's the right length bolt and isn't bottoming out in a blind hole in the block. I've also seen before where when people remove a bracket, or ever a washer, a bolt becomes just a smidge too long and bottoms out in the hole, but still looks like it's clamping the cover, when really it's just flush with the cover. If that bolt is just flush with the cover and not actually torquing it down, that would explain the leak right there also. Another less appealing thought would be a crack in the timing cover casting right at the bolt boss allowing oil to get into the bolt hole casting.
@@WheeliePete All good things to look for after disassembly. I certainly appreciate all of the advice!
@@WheeliePete Well I fixed it. It ended up being a small section where I didn't scrape the old gasket well enough and I was dealing with a double gasket. If not for that, I'm sure the high tack would have worked perfect the first time. Now though I noticed the oil is looking milky. Do you think it's possible that when I pulled the cover the coolant fell down into the pan and just mixed with the new oil I put in?
Around 25 minutes you talk about coolant hitting the ground. I have been having fuse issues lately, and while looking under the hood I noticed a coolant leak and the reservoir being low/that possibly that knock you were talking about at the beginning of the video. Is it possible the coolant is messing with the ground, causing fuses to pop? Thanks!
It's possible, but but not likely that coolant is causing the issues. Fuses routinely is probably being caused by a wire that has gotten rubbed and is grounding out. Is it the same fuse that is blowing or different ones? What I'm talking about in the video has more to do with improperly grounded aluminum parts (like the head) that when stray current gets into the coolant it eats away at the aluminum over time. If the fuse that is blowing is on the same one you'll need to start working your way through that circuit, looking for the fault. Start at the grounds and make sure they are all good, clean bare metal, and then start looking for frayed or loose wiring on that circuit.
WheeliePete Thanks for the reply! I figured out my short issue actually (made a mountain out of a mole hill with that one). While doing so, I just visually inspected and felt the water pump, and I don’t see any leaks there. I did notice the top of the front differential is wet though. Any ideas of where a coolant leak could come from to spill onto the differential?
There's some hoses and pipes over on that side. Cold be leaking and traveling down along things until dripping. One that gets overlooked is if you have a carburetor there is sometimes a small coolant line to the bottom of the intake manifold under the carb.
Looking for someone to work on a 1989 Toyota truck with an oil leak in the Atlanta, GA area. Anybody know anyone?
Can you drive a 1990 toyota without the steering belt..
Without the power steering belt powering the pump? Yes. Turning the wheel will be a lot harder, but you will still be able to turn the wheels.
So are you not supposed to put rtv on that bolt that goes trough the timing cover?
The reason that the timing cover bolt that passes through the water pump, timing cover, and into the block doesn't need sealer is because it is being run into a blind hole in the block and has the timing cover gasket and the water pump gasket protecting the bolt hole from oil and coolant exposure. Toyota is pretty good about calling out special procedures when needed in their factory service manuals (FSM). I think you might be remembering that the top most bolt on the oil pump DOES require sealant. That bolt hole is exposed to oil on the backside and without sealant you can get oil pushing back up the threads and weeping around the head. I just put a post up on this channel's community page with pictures from Toyota factory service manuals of the two assemblies. Toyota is pretty good about calling out special assembly procedures in their FSM's. Link to the community page: ruclips.net/channel/UCI85rruZT8T-rq2EEmrvsQgcommunity
I've got a video on the front main seal for the 22R series engines that covers the removal and replacement of the oil pump also: ruclips.net/video/5eozfLpEJds/видео.html
@WheeliePete So does that mean I don't need to worry about compromising the timing cover seal? I have a 22-RE
Correct. Replacing the water pump should in no way affect a timing cover seal on any of the 22R series engines.
@@WheeliePete I think your right I was remembering the oil pump bolt
Permatex water pump & thermostat GASKET MAKER instead of paper gasket. 1977 20R Toyota pick up.
I APPRECIATE YOUR OPINION.
Bought STAINLESS STEEL new bolts. Not the long bolt using old.
Should be fine. Don't go crazy with the gasket maker. You don't want blobs of that stuff breaking off on the inside and clogging/jamming your cooling system
@@WheeliePete 😁 Thank U....
Saw video, the guy just patted it on with 1 finger.......everybody else put fat rope looking SQUEEZE from tube all around....was not gonna do it that way.....common sense said overflow to inside once screws are tightened for sure.
Pile of gunky stuff.
💋😘 HAPPY HOLIDAYS!👍🙏
@@WheeliePete last question. My pump has 8 holes. Shape the same 1977 20R......aside from the long bolt all are the same length.
There is 1 odd bolt shorter. Hardware said it did not look broken.
Do you have a SHORTIE BOLT anywhere?
@@WheeliePete hoping U could tell me if U had SHORTIE SCREW/BOLT.
Got new bolts, did not have stainless steel except the shortie, but; I want to get a bolt like the rest dame size but for the long bolt......center.
🎄🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎉HAPPY HOLIDAYS NEW YEAR!
There shouldn't be an odd short bolt in the system. I bet someone lost one of the alignment studs and replaced it with a short bolt. A bolt will be fine, just make sure it isn't bottoming out in the hole and not actually clamping.
Are these prone to failure ?
It's been my experience that the "Aisin" branded water pumps (original OEM manufacturer) are excellent and last a long time. It's kind of hit or miss with aftermarket manufacturers. The condition of your coolant plays a much larger role in how fast your pump wears out. If your coolant is dirty with a lot of particles floating around it's going to shorten the life of the pump. That being said, no, it's not a prone to failure part in the 22R series engines.
my 1991 hilux take about 9.8l of coolant
Since you said "Hilux" I'm assuming you're not in the U.S.? Is your rig by chance the Toyota Hilux Surf LN130 1989-1993 model with the 2.4 turbo diesel 2LTE engine code? If it is, that would explain the amount of coolant as those engines call for 9.5L with a manual or 11L with the automatic gearbox. I'm in the U.S. (which also explains why I listed capacities in quarts and gallons) and we never got the diesel motors unfortunately. My video is specific to the U.S. 22R series engines which ran from 1981 to 1995 in the U.S. trucks before they switched to the RZ series motors in the Tacoma's. The cooling system capacities did fluctuate a bit over the years depending on year, 4x4, manual or automatic trans, etc. I should have done a little better job in the video announcing that the capacities listed were "approximate" and that you should fill the system to capacity as needed in your specific application. I've put a little update to that effect in the video details section on RUclips.
@@WheeliePete im from australia but mine hilux is ln106r with a 3L motor
Any way u can help me with a project
Need some Identify in some parts
I might be able to help. Sometimes it a bit hard over the internet to pinpoint issues, but I'll do what I can. Shoot me an email at WheeliePete@outlook.com
😊
UPDATE EDIT ! ( NOT ALL 22R WATER PUMPS ARE CREATED EQUAL) YEAR MATTERS ...'JUST FYI'... I watched the video . Was extremely careful doing this water pump just the way is shown in this video . Filled the radiator with new coolant and it is leaking around the top of the water pump before even starting the engine . I have no idea what I did wrong
If it's leaking water without any pressure in the system then there's a really big gap in the gasket somewhere or a cracked casting on the new water pump, or a very uneven sealing surface on the front of the timing cover (although if it wasn't leaking before it's probably not the timing cover.) Unfortunately you're probably going to have to take it off and check it and then reseal it again. Make sure all the mounting bolts and studs are in.
@@WheeliePete brother , thanks for the reply so quickly. I love your channel. Here's the news ,,,,,I just took it back off a few minutes ago . It's the wrong dang water pump they sent me . I didn't realize there was a slight difference in that top edge . My truck is an 86 and has the curved top . This pump is straight across there . Man ole man . From what I've read so far this pump is for 84 models and earlier. All the holes line up great but that top edge don't . I'm just finishing up my rebuild and was about to crank this thing when I saw the water dripping on my final checks . Thank you much brother
@@WheeliePete it was funny because I did it on the bench , clean enough to eat off of . I was thinking the whole time to myself " there's no way I can do it any better the second time "
Oh man...that's a bummer! But I'm glad you got it figured out. At least you caught it before you fired up the truck. That would have made a much bigger mess if the pump had started working with the leak being that big!
@@WheeliePete yes sir absolutely. Appreciate you man
what an amazing job well explained and lots of great details. Impressive