etrailer | Light Guide LED Backup Light for Truck/Trailer: The Breakdown
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Speaker 1: Today we're gonna take a look at and show you how to install both the Optronics Light Guide LED Backup Light, part number BUL602CB, and the Optronics Light Guide LED Trailer Taillight, this has the red lens, it's part number is STL602RB.Now here's what our lights are gonna look like when we have them on. We kinda turned out the lights here just to give you an idea of how they've gonna look. Now when you use these as a pair, they meet the requirements for the backup lights. So they're gonna be compliant in that aspect, you're not gonna have to worry about having any additional lights anywhere. There's a total of 12 diodes. You can see we've got the eight here on the outside and then they're gonna have four more internally there.
I like that little, kinda that X that you see there. That's unique, you don't see that in a whole lot of lights. So overall it's gonna give us a nice bright light, but it's also gonna be unique in appearance.Now overall, the new LED lights have a lot of advantages to them. They last much, much longer than typical incandescents. We don't have to worry about getting in there, changing the bulbs on them.
Also they give a cleaner and brighter light as compared to what we used to see out of them. And they're not gonna draw as much power. Now these are gonna work out really well whether you're using them on a truck like we are, or on a trailer. They're fully submersible, they're sonically sealed all the way around that back cover so you won't have to worry about any water or moisture getting towards the inside of the light. I think that's really important in trailers, maybe not so much in trucks, hopefully the back end of your truck isn't gonna be submerged in water.
But if it is, I guess we don't have to worry about it.Now the polycarbonate lens is gonna be really good at resisting cracks so it'll kinda absorb that and also resist scratching. So for a long time to come your lights should look really, really nice. Additionally they use surface mount technology inside. It's kind of a newer circuitry. This is gonna run a little bit cooler, it's better at dissipating the heat, but also it's gonna absorb more bumps or kinda the harshness that we'll see going down the road as our truck's bouncing around or our trailer's bouncing around.
So they should remain very, very dependable.Now overall our light is gonna be six and half inches long. It's gonna be two and three eighths of an inch wide. And then from the surface of the light to the back it's about an inch and three quarter.Now as far as this light goes, it's gonna share all of the same features that our reverse light has. So we've got the surface mount technology, polycarbonate lens, be extremely efficient, bright, and long lasting LEDs. So overall both of them are gonna be almost identical. The difference is of course in the functions that they provide. This one giving us our running lights, taillights, and brakes. This one giving us our reverse lights. They're gonna share the same dimensions as well.Now when in taillight mode, you'll see we're gonna have the illuminated X. That's a really unique design. I like that, very similar to the reverse light has kind of an X shape in it. Now we're gonna hit the brakes, hit our blinker and we'll see how the additional diodes light up to give us that brightness that we need. There you can see those outer diodes lighting up indicating a change in direction. And those will be the same lights that come on when we hit our brakes.Now one thing to keep in mind, the reverse lights are both sold separately. You're gonna need one for each side to be compliant. And the same for our tail, stop, and turn. You're gonna need one for each side. The grommet is also something you'll need to pick up if you don't already have one.Now for our installation we're gonna be putting these on a flatbed. These lights are extremely common, both the reverse and turn and taillights in these applications anymore. I think you're gonna see more and more people doing a replacement like this, but also gonna work out really well for your six inch trailer lights that need replacement kinda on the back. You'll see them used kinda universally in both places. If you take a look here at the passenger side you can see we've alre
I like your idea to bend the wire back over itself in the bigger connector that has only one wire going in.
It will provide better contact for the connection because of the size of the wire.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/BUL602CB.html
My rear lights have two medal pins one on top one on bottom securing the black oval shaped grommet. What tool do you need to remove the pins to access the lights itself?
do the turn signals work while applying the brake at the same time?
The answer to that question will depend on the way the taillights on the tow vehicle are wired. If the brake lamp and turn signals on your vehicle are carried on separate circuits (usually have amber turn signals), make sure your vehicle has the tow package or otherwise, use a taillight converter. If the tow vehicle does NOT have amber turn signals that use the same taillight for the turn signal and brake lamp, these will work great right out of the box.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/BUL602CB.html
What is the width of the holes for these lights? I can’t decide whether I need to make mine about 2&3/8 wide or 2&1/2”. Want to make sure the light and grommet are snug but not super hard to install
The width of these lights are 2 3/8" so you will want to make the hole slightly larger to be able to fit the grommet in.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/BUL602CB.html
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Optronics/a70gb.html
I'm sorry but that's just a really bad recommended installation from a supplier. For a video about 'Oval Trailer Light Installation' ... it would have been really nice if the video started with laying out the oval cutouts on the bare metal, provide the exact cutout dimensions needed and showed how you cutout and clean up the edges of the ovals. For the wiring - anyone who's owned and used a trailer of any kind knows the wiring shown in the video is junk. This is a perfect example of 'how not to wire trailer lights'. Make all electrical connections using water-tight, heat shrinkable, crimp connectors or by soldering the connections and covering with heatshrink tubing. And show how to properly secure the wires up underneath - don;t just say 'don't leave it like this'. I'm sorry, but I expected more from a trailer pro.
Check out the following link to an expert answer. Mike provides a cut out diagram to help with cutting a hole.
www.etrailer.com/question-64864.html
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/BUL602CB.html
Crimps on truck lights is a real bad idea. I get that you need to use them sometimes but these could've been soldered.
We have had really good result using heat shrink butt connectors with wiring lasting for years when exposed to the elements. If you have the materials and skill to solder the connections then you can do that too.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/BUL602CB.html
They’ve come a long way. The heat shrink & solder butt connectors are amazing and honestly have worked better for me than soldering, as the connection is completely encased in a glue and plastic and protected.