Build The DeAgostini Millennium Falcon Pt 5: More Cockpit
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- In part five of the build of DeAgostini's studio scale Millennium Falcon, painting continues in the cockpit. I look at washes, Tamiya Weathering Master pastels and gluing tiny pieces.
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All music used herein is ©dogsounds and used with permission - from me, because I composed, arranged and recorded it, and it is all original work ^_^
@gurney side For some reason I don't have an option to reply directly to your comment. Maybe you need to subscribe ^_^
As I say in the film, acrylics can be thinned with water but Tamiya a sort of partly acryclic, not fully water based. It does work but I have found it can leave patchy areas of colour because the paint does not fully mix, and you can get runs and water spotting. Thew unpredictability means I stick with thinners where I want smooth fades. It DOES work well with water for the scumline on a U-boat though because patchy green bits are exactly what you want.
Try it out on a piece of scrap first, to see what sort of results you get. Everything has its uses :)
Really great video. This has been loads of help. Great stuff mate
Thanks, no worries, my pleasure :)
I've had some success when using a clear colour coat, to take an unstirred or shaken pot of Tamiya and using the clear liquid above the more solid pigment below.
+Tony Blackwell Interesting. Iwould have used Tamiya clear colours here but I didn't have enough to hand so had to improvise for some ^_^
Wow, like buses!
Fantastic videos Sir, though you are costing me a fortune in Tamiya gear 😉
LOL, I should be on commission from them, shouldn't I :)
really nice work !!!!!!! you mentioned a Build group on Facebook. I could only find one but only has 72 members . Is this the one you are talking about.
Bruce f HI! Nope, it's this one: facebook.com/groups/1560851284162459
I have joined a few millennium falcon building too, as i have airbrushed my model not to replicate the film one, but to make it look even more dirty and ultimately more beaten up via paint 👍
Informative as always Mike, learn8ng loads :-)
whiteknight723 Thanks :)
What exactly is the difference between dry-brushing and using pastels?
+Keith VonBernewitz The difference is the medium - dry-brushing is done with paint, almost none on the brush, and pastels are powdered pigment so are "dry" not wet like paint. You can achieve effects with both that match, although dry-brush can be more precise when hitting edges, and pastels can produce smoother fades and blends. Also with pastels they are not fully permanent and can be easily removed by accident so they have to be sealed in either with varnishes or pigment fixers to make them permanent.
When you talk about putting down a matte or gloss varnish before you use the wash. What varnish do you use? I've made the mistake already with not putting down the clear first and it resulted in a semi-happy accident but my current project will not take kindly to the same treatment. Thanks, I'll go back to enjoying your videos now.
LOL happy accidents are the best :)
For a matt varnish I use rattle cans of Humbrol Matt 49 lightly sprayed over. You can also get it in little pots if you need to brush it on a small area, but it does not dry quite as matt when brushed as the surface does not come out as rough. Avoid clear parts - it will forst them up (unless you want, like, frost, obvs ^_^ )
For gloss varnish I am actually currently using Pledge MUlti-Surface Wax - no really. It's also known as Future oor Klear, but in the UK it is Pledge MSW. It works for me because I never make glossy models, so it is used only as a temporary varnish betwen different latyers of paint (although you can use it as a gloss finisher). I currently brush it lightly on to get a smooth and shiny surface, although it can be airbrushed neat (don't thin it). HOwever I've not been able to get the hang of airbrushing it just yet so I tend to get a slightly uneven finish (usually because I put too much on because it is hard to see what you have applied). It can also be used to make slear paerts such as canopies look super shiny and glassy (although I've never got the hang of that so far)
Modelmaking Guru just bought this varnish myself, wow!! What a difference.
+Modelmaking Guru I've been very happy using Winsor & Newton Artists' Acrylic Matt UV Varnish. Comes in a big pot (225ml) and sprays quite nicely through an airbrush. It also dries really quickly. Also, I've not had a problem spraying Pledge MSW through my airbrush - at least so far.
I've heard other people using the W&N stuff before, never tried it myself though ^_^
I have built my deagostini millennium falcon kit and want some lighting kits maybe from maplin in the uk?
You could make your own lighting from stuff from there, but I suspect there will most likely be folks selling pre-made lighting kits here and there, you should have a trawl around the Googles and the ebays :)
What brush are you using to paint the aluminium details of the cockpit? You did it very very precise!!!
+Domenico Neri Thank you :) It was actually some unbranded brush I got from an art shop about a million years ago when I was young and into drawing comic strips (when there were dinosaurs and everything). However, that has since been dumped in favour of the Citadel Artificer brush (available from Warhammer and Games Workshop outlets) which right now, although expensive, is one of the best fine detail brushes I have ever used ^_^
@gurney side Also I am allergic to maths. Even your mention of it combined with GCSE maths (the weaponised form of maths) has brought me out in cold sweats.
Foxx, what do you run through your air brush between colour changes?
+whiteknight723 Wow, slow reply huh? RUclips never told me about this comment :(
I clean out with either Tamiya X20-A thinner (if I am changing colours) or Ultimate Modelling Products airbrush cleaner (if I have finished for the day and am stripping down top put the airbrush away) , and then lastly a quick run through of water to rinse everything.
a side note. I painted my 1/72 falcon with Tamiaya and washed it without clearing it. I had no isssues
Tamiya paints can be pretty hardy if they have had a good long time to cure ^_^
Is this all custom painting, I thought this model already came painted
+lee smith Yep, the pieces come "pre-coloured", and some have screen print painting on them. It's...okay, I guess, but in now way at all screen accurate. Painting is optional and it would look "okay" unpainted, but to someone like me who has built a few Falcons now, there's no way I could leave it unpainted and weathered! It kinda just looks like a big toy, unpainted (and the metal parts like the cannons are bare metal and not painted at all).
Modelmaking Guru awesome thanks for the info, I've been out of the model game for quite some time now but I've seen this and it's just extremely temping but I was never that great at the painting aspects
Well I will at some point crack on with it again (just no time at the moment) and when I do I'll be covering the whole paint job, and show how I do it all, so be tempted!
Modelmaking Guru will be looking forward to it
:)