I have a question. What it is it that I do wrong when im doing vertical uphill. I got a 7018-1 rod 2mm I think. And 80amps and its runny like water. Its still runny at 60amps. I dont get it. Welding electrode positive on 6mm carbon steel plate.
Absolutely love these "basic skills" videos! Thanks for not assuming such knowledge is known by all. There are plenty of us "newbs" out here who really appreciate your excellent, clear instructions.
I started welding almost 30 years ago. Nor as a profession but as a hobby. I have however welded for a short period as a profession. I learned as a ironworker apprentice. They are supposed to be some of the best short of pipe fitters. That said, I learn somthing from every vid that I watch. Keep showing the rookies how to do it because you are showing some old dogs some new tricks as well. Love the vids guys
I've been welding for years and comment this is so well thought-out, speaks of huge experience and guides on a basic which is one of the most important things in all reality
Just started stick welding in college this week. Had a hell of a day restarting my electrodes today. That little flick is something I def gotta try. Appreciate all the info in all these videos.
Kirk if your really interested follow it up its really fulfilling even just as a hobby but can make u serious cash too but u gotta start at d bottom get a cheap welder and a 4inch angle grinder n a hardware shop good luck dude every one n Ireland can weld even d women
Iv been welding for 35 yrs and I'm still learning great video guys all those tips like flicking the rod while it's still liquid to lose the excess for a good restart great tips and tricks I just bought my first welding table today so cant wait to try out those tips 😎
Congratulations to Jason T. I love my rod oven, even slightly damp 7018 runs noticeable different. I worked at a shop next to the San Francisco Bay and the rod in the oven was awful. Turns out the ovens power was on a timer so at night the power was shut off to save " energy ". The oven cooled and contracted then sucked moist fog laden air in ! Replaced the rod / removed the timer and 7018 issues gone. Water expands 1860 times when vaporized by the welding arc as well as the introduction of hydrogen into the weld puddle. Note: 6010 NEEDS THE FACTORY MOISTURE AND SHOULD NEVER BE PLACED IN A ROD OVEN. Stay safe all....
Still in training, ALL of this is awesome for me, because I'm just about ready to take my first certification, and I'll be doing it with 7018! Keep up the great work!
Great tip about filing the bit of slag off the tip to get a good arc start. I figured that out just recently and it's nice to know that it's not just for amateurs like me. I started using the serrated back of the welding pliers, but a file would be a lot better at doing that. Thanks!
Very well done. I’ve been welding for quite a while but always can learn new ways. One thing I have found is that, by working by myself so much, sometimes bad habits can creep into my process for I don’t know why. I find myself doing weird things all of a sudden-probably from lack of practice in a certain position or rod type. Something like your video is a good way to refresh basic skills. Thanks a lot for improving my style.
THANKS for the video. I can't even get a brand new 7018 3/32 rod to start (without a LOT of difficulty) on 110A DCEP on a nice 220 volt machine. No problem with any other stick. Gotta practice more.
Really appreciate the basics! I'm just learning and having to take night classes that are full. We're sharing stations and don't get a lot of seat time. Every little bit helps!
Many times when i was fabricating things i use to tackweld using 6013 rods then weld to finish with 7018,but sometimes i don't have 6013 available and i use the same 7018 rods to tack aswell,bit difficult but manageable if just before tacking,break the exces flux tip with the fingers wearing glove,it will break enough to expose the core rod,then release the rod from the electrode carrier clamp and scrape it against the workpiece or something hard to get to the shiny metal,then get it back to the clamp and make the tack using close support by hand to ignite and burn shortly enough to make a tack,if needed,break the flux tip again and reinforce the tack by re-ignite the arc next to the tack without touching the tack if the piece you attack is quite heavy or tend to move,if not,reach with the weld untill the first tack is covered,but in essence,tacking with 7018 made me practice the restarts mid-weld,if you cannot tack with 7018,it will be harder to learn to re-ignite mid-weld,nice tip dude,valuable lessons free for everybody !!! ^^
i just bought a cheap mini inverter stick welder from princess auto, its the same as harbor freight but in canada.. bout it to lean how to stick weld and i tell ya, its not nearly as easy as you guys make it look lol. you guys have got skill. its only been a few days of practicing but getting the arc started is by far my biggest issue. but you guys have giving me insight on things and im glad i found this channel. im gonna keep practicing tho hope i get it
Excellent video Jason. Glad to see it. This is usually one of the first hurdles to overcome with my new students/Apprentices. Maybe one day you can do a video with us at the hall??? See ya bro.
Good vid I usually back track a little more sometimes just a tad slow , to be on the safe side , it’s not hard to get porosity in those starts/tie ends , and if you are in tight spots , in a hurry , doing lots of x-ray , last thing you want to see is a glob of pin holes in that tie end , also seen times to where there was a tiny bit of porosity on a tie end , hit it with a grinder and it turned out to be more than what you would had thought , also burning large electrodes, you really have back track them a good bit I’ve noticed they seem to want to leave porosity on them tie ends , Those pinholes come from the rod not being fully covered by the flux on the rod , basically burning bare unexposed rod Also sometimes starting electrodes the end may crumble or break off a little, so than means you have to back track longer before you make that tie end , so it’s clean
You mention that these electrodes have a graphite tip that makes striking off easier, but then you don't really show striking off a brand new electrode. You just cut to an already established arc shot. I'd love to see a comparison between these and other 7018 electrodes, which don't have the graphite tip.
@Wroger Wroger I don't understand your comment. Of course restarts are often done with partial rods, but they're also quite often done with brand new rods. He also went to the trouble to mention the easy starting, why not also demonstrate? 5 seconds is all it would take.
@Wroger Wroger I see your point. Besides, a re-start, or any start, is more something you feel than you see. There would be no visual difference between any lohy rod taking off. If conditions aren't right, or not enough amps, they get grabby. Hard to see that.
Hello! I’m in a welding class atm and we’re building our own tables. What’s the item called that you’re using for overhead welding? I’d like to just buy it instead of making it ourselves. I’m looking for an item that I can use to hold the steel up. Love your videos!
On that vertical weld are you concerned with the bead being concave? Got any tips for getting the metal to lay in there flat or convex? Thank you. Also are you running constant current or constant voltage?
Sorry if I missed it In the video but how much amp are you using and do you use a different amp on root passes? I’m just taking a welding class in school right now so just trying to get some tips
Mark Lowry check your travel angle. Keep it about 10-15°. If you’re straight up and down it can snuff out the arc. Also, turn up your arc force a bit if you have it as an option.
Thank you for all the videos you put out there to help us learn. I have a question about a 45° "T-joint". Either with MIG or ARC welding. How would you correctly grind/prepare the plate that comes in on a 45° (or any other angle than 90° actually) ? It would be useful to learn the correct way. Thank you in advance.
Hello Sir, my Name is Haiqal from Indonesia would you like to make video that explain how to do reweld / repair welding on a steel plate using stick welding down head with bevel single v butt joint. the first weld we assume that is had a defect so need to grind it till the fill/hot pass layer, and then we weld there again. that is for my undergraduate thesis Hopefully you can help me out Thank You Sir
Hello Sir, my Name is Haiqal from Indonesia would you like to make video that explain how to do reweld / repair welding on a steel plate using stick welding down head. the first weld we assume that is had a defect so need to grind it till the fill/hot pass layer, and then we weld there again. that is for my undergraduate thesis Hopefully you can help me out Thank You Sir
Tommy T yes, I’ve done quite a bit with these rods. I’ve never been a fan of the Atom Arc (just personal preference) I’ve been an Excalibur fan for years, these new rods from ESAB run just as good as the Excalibur but arc initiation is excellent. The graphite tip seems to help a lot on start up.
So I'm wondering how some people can keep such a steep angle? When I was doing 2f I was taught to be almost flat with my rod on the first pass to avoid undercut. Is it more about where the rod is in the joint?
With my 7018 overhead I struggle with the slag/puddle dipping into my rod n sticking it or disrupting the arc. When I get going I can go smooth but usually the first inch is a mess, any pointers?
In vertical position, when do you weld upwards and when do you weld downwards? I had some 3mm 50x30 rectangular and i was unable to weld it (with 7018, 2,5mm electrodes) upwards like i've seen you do it, without putting holes in the material. If i traveled faster, the weld did not penetrate enough. On that particular setup, i found out that going downwards suited best for me. I have to mention i am new to stick welding (i am experienced with mig welding, but with stick...i am a beginner)
The most important aspect on welding 7018 downwards is to start the arc at the top of the bead you want to make and build a little pile of metal untill the excess slag drops,from that moment start moving down and keep the rod almost horizontally as you travell down,waiting for the right moment when the exces molted slag drops out to expose the bare molted metal to advance downwards,practice that and you will see the results,do not thank me for that,just practice and keep burning rods ^^
When stick welding, the only time you weld vertical down, is with a rod which the number ends in **10 or **11, or **48. With other rods, it may "look" ok, but will not give a decent result at all. There will be plenty of people try to argue it. If your knocking something up for at home then dk what you like, but if you need any sort of quality in your work,.. do it properly 👍👍
any tips for 7018s like the weldwell Ph77s, majority of caddys I deal with only have a 60-63 OCV which makes dealing with the 77s (7018) a sod even thou alot of the weld procedures here use 77s, most caddys here more suited to 16TCs(7016s) 50 OCV... very few caddys I come across have a 70 OCV to assist that arc distance ... actually only one brand ive found that likes the 7018(PH77s) here miller.... prob is we have stratas and XA (both good caddies but lack the OCV)
All my restarts are humped up after i go back to tie into the divot. Ive been having trouble with the tie ins trying for my 3g smaw cert. Even flat im having trouble with the tie in and the weld being too high where im restarting.
What if you don’t want to whip out and leave a crater, but instead you get to the end and want a good thick bead, instead of getting to the end and it overheating/wanting to burn out
You can get quite a few starts and stops from one welding rod. practice, practice, practice and be VERY critical of your results. Filing the end of a rod... ?.... An old welders trick...pinching off the balled end of the rod with a pair of pliers works a lot faster and just as good. Use pliers with good sharp (file like) teeth.
I. Wouuld like to see same s.tarts and stops but on pipe diifferent m materials if that would matter as im learning to be able to do many different types of pipe and stuff on our large drum at work would like to produce stainless moonshine still parts as well so different material will mainly be tig on that but mig or arc on the stuff at work. Also i have a large beard and wonder what your favorite beard saver stuff is for wrlding. Like snap on bear aprons or what. Im new but just got a ssimder 10 in one on order to practice more at home and do farm projects ive always just had friends come weld shit for 10+ years so itll take me a while to get good i know
There’s things you can do with 7018 that they say you can’t do. I actually passed my 3g certification on 1” plate doing nothing but weave beads. In 1997
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I have a question. What it is it that I do wrong when im doing vertical uphill. I got a 7018-1 rod 2mm I think. And 80amps and its runny like water. Its still runny at 60amps. I dont get it. Welding electrode positive on 6mm carbon steel plate.
Absolutely love these "basic skills" videos! Thanks for not assuming such knowledge is known by all. There are plenty of us "newbs" out here who really appreciate your excellent, clear instructions.
me gustaria ver tus habilidades avanzadas, pffffff sos igual a los porteños de buenos aires pero en ingles. payaso.
@@yayaicu me gusta soldar y estoy aprendiendo
Jee whiz.... it never occurred to me to just flick away that little piece of "Good Luck trying to strike an Arc now" gob !
Aubrey Roche my buddy at work taught me that when I was in the Union.
@@GodslilRedneck23 I accidentally became an Electrician, many years now but, welding is still my hobby.
I love whippin it off and seein the sparks hit the floor
Mig pliers work too but don't take off too much of it'll stick.
🤦♂️ maaaan i wish I woulda learned this sooner! UA2 here we come!!!
The “rod flick” trick was worth the price of admission.. Thanks 😎
Dude the slow mo zoom in shots are incredibly helpful. Top notch welding youtube right here
I appreciate that you realize much of this stuff is brand new to many of us.
The flick, I’ve done it unintentionally and never picked up on it. Thank you sir!
I started welding almost 30 years ago. Nor as a profession but as a hobby. I have however welded for a short period as a profession. I learned as a ironworker apprentice. They are supposed to be some of the best short of pipe fitters. That said, I learn somthing from every vid that I watch. Keep showing the rookies how to do it because you are showing some old dogs some new tricks as well. Love the vids guys
I've been welding for years and comment this is so well thought-out, speaks of huge experience and guides on a basic which is one of the most important things in all reality
Just started stick welding in college this week. Had a hell of a day restarting my electrodes today. That little flick is something I def gotta try. Appreciate all the info in all these videos.
I haven't even started welding and you guys have so much useful information love this channel.
Kirk Truman thanks for watching. There’s a ton of content to keep you busy.
@David F I know right. But don't most companies want that certification
Ha, I've been practicing stick for a month, these guys make it look easy. Its a lot harder than it looks. And theres a LOT of details to learn about.
Kirk if your really interested follow it up its really fulfilling even just as a hobby but can make u serious cash too but u gotta start at d bottom get a cheap welder and a 4inch angle grinder n a hardware shop good luck dude every one n Ireland can weld even d women
Thank you .im 45 and new in arc welding..trying a new career..it helps me a lot on learning
7018 really helped me learn about running welds started with 6010 just blew right through everything I touched
Iv been welding for 35 yrs and I'm still learning great video guys all those tips like flicking the rod while it's still liquid to lose the excess for a good restart great tips and tricks I just bought my first welding table today so cant wait to try out those tips 😎
Just happened to start overhead with 7018 today at school. Muchos gracias ;-)
Great tip been welding for years did not know about the flick thanks
Congratulations to Jason T. I love my rod oven, even slightly damp 7018 runs noticeable different. I worked at a shop next to the San Francisco Bay and the rod in the oven was awful. Turns out the ovens power was on a timer so at night the power was shut off to save " energy ". The oven cooled and contracted then sucked moist fog laden air in ! Replaced the rod / removed the timer and 7018 issues gone. Water expands 1860 times when vaporized by the welding arc as well as the introduction of hydrogen into the weld puddle. Note: 6010 NEEDS THE FACTORY MOISTURE AND SHOULD NEVER BE PLACED IN A ROD OVEN. Stay safe all....
Getting ready for my first certification and using 7018, so a very timely set of tips for me. Thanks so much!
Still in training, ALL of this is awesome for me, because I'm just about ready to take my first certification, and I'll be doing it with 7018! Keep up the great work!
That flick is a neat trick, i just started using 7018 in my class, great electrode very fun. Now i know a simple flick will save me some time
Great tip about filing the bit of slag off the tip to get a good arc start. I figured that out just recently and it's nice to know that it's not just for amateurs like me. I started using the serrated back of the welding pliers, but a file would be a lot better at doing that. Thanks!
Very well done. I’ve been welding for quite a while but always can learn new ways. One thing I have found is that, by working by myself so much, sometimes bad habits can creep into my process for I don’t know why. I find myself doing weird things all of a sudden-probably from lack of practice in a certain position or rod type. Something like your video is a good way to refresh basic skills. Thanks a lot for improving my style.
7018 rods have always been the hardest to restart for me. Great video. Thank you for the tips.
Great video. We the non-welders get to know how it should be done correctly and use it to check others work (in a no-critical operation). Thank you.
Eduardo Rosales A you’re welcome, thanks for watching.
Good tip with the flip. I have been welding for 30 years and never knew about this.
THANKS for the video.
I can't even get a brand new 7018 3/32 rod to start (without a LOT of difficulty) on 110A DCEP on a nice 220 volt machine. No problem with any other stick. Gotta practice more.
Thanks for the video I've always had problems with stops and starts
That flick tip is BIGG!thankyou
Really appreciate the basics! I'm just learning and having to take night classes that are full. We're sharing stations and don't get a lot of seat time. Every little bit helps!
I've got a project soon that I was planning on using TIG but now I want to run 7018. Thanks guys.
Many times when i was fabricating things i use to tackweld using 6013 rods then weld to finish with 7018,but sometimes i don't have 6013 available and i use the same 7018 rods to tack aswell,bit difficult but manageable if just before tacking,break the exces flux tip with the fingers wearing glove,it will break enough to expose the core rod,then release the rod from the electrode carrier clamp and scrape it against the workpiece or something hard to get to the shiny metal,then get it back to the clamp and make the tack using close support by hand to ignite and burn shortly enough to make a tack,if needed,break the flux tip again and reinforce the tack by re-ignite the arc next to the tack without touching the tack if the piece you attack is quite heavy or tend to move,if not,reach with the weld untill the first tack is covered,but in essence,tacking with 7018 made me practice the restarts mid-weld,if you cannot tack with 7018,it will be harder to learn to re-ignite mid-weld,nice tip dude,valuable lessons free for everybody !!! ^^
i just bought a cheap mini inverter stick welder from princess auto, its the same as harbor freight but in canada.. bout it to lean how to stick weld and i tell ya, its not nearly as easy as you guys make it look lol. you guys have got skill. its only been a few days of practicing but getting the arc started is by far my biggest issue. but you guys have giving me insight on things and im glad i found this channel. im gonna keep practicing tho hope i get it
Great vid 👌🏻 love the flick tip.! Will definitely use/share that one.
Allen Townsend thanks for watching. Glad it helped.
Vert help full tips mate ,rooky in a shed in Australia thank you
Excellent video, I’ve been welding for years and these tips will help me get better.
What a great source of info for newbys like me, thanks very much
Good video like how you can see the puddle and rod action
Love the flick trick, but shouldn't 7018's have a longer start up distance to make sure they are burning properly? Thanks
I like the slow motion repeat of that vertical tie-in.
you are just great man! i would like to Sheik your hand and tell this in person.weld.com is great.you people are great teachers.congratulations
I'm in welding in school and really hope to make it into a career
littl3 nugg3t it’s a great career to get into.
Practice practice practice, you ain't getting anywhere if you ain't burning rods
Just learning to weld. thanks!
Thanks for the tips and answering my question.
Paul Ruane you’re welcome. Thanks for the support and for the request.
Happy new years my man! Thanks for the advices and all the videos. it helps me a lot with my teaching (my 1st year)
You are really good at welding school sir, i will lean
Priceless information here!!!!
Excellent video Jason. Glad to see it. This is usually one of the first hurdles to overcome with my new students/Apprentices. Maybe one day you can do a video with us at the hall??? See ya bro.
Good vid
I usually back track a little more sometimes just a tad slow , to be on the safe side , it’s not hard to get porosity in those
starts/tie ends
, and if you are in tight spots , in a hurry , doing lots of x-ray , last thing you want to see is a glob of pin holes in that tie end , also seen times to where there was a tiny bit of porosity on a tie end , hit it with a grinder and it turned out to be more than what you would had thought , also burning large electrodes, you really have back track them a good bit
I’ve noticed they seem to want to leave porosity on them tie ends ,
Those pinholes come from the rod not being fully covered by the flux on the rod , basically burning bare unexposed rod
Also sometimes starting electrodes the end may crumble or break off a little, so than means you have to back track longer before you make that tie end , so it’s clean
Awesome footage of the weld bead Mr. camera guy!
Kia ora bro love the videos and thank you for keeping us new chaps in mind
You mention that these electrodes have a graphite tip that makes striking off easier, but then you don't really show striking off a brand new electrode. You just cut to an already established arc shot. I'd love to see a comparison between these and other 7018 electrodes, which don't have the graphite tip.
@Wroger Wroger I don't understand your comment. Of course restarts are often done with partial rods, but they're also quite often done with brand new rods. He also went to the trouble to mention the easy starting, why not also demonstrate? 5 seconds is all it would take.
@Wroger Wroger I see your point. Besides, a re-start, or any start, is more something you feel than you see. There would be no visual difference between any lohy rod taking off. If conditions aren't right, or not enough amps, they get grabby. Hard to see that.
I love this channel, been wanting a welder for some hobby work, this channel gets me going
You can get a Lincoln 225 for like 150$ on Craigslist, weld up to half inch with it. Not the best but it's a start
john dowe I’m limited to 120v for the foreseeable future. Mainly want to do steel/wood type furniture. Nothing really heavy
@@ranjdall hmm I wouldn't know any good 120v welders , I do know you can get a box to swap the output from AC to DC though...
Hello! I’m in a welding class atm and we’re building our own tables. What’s the item called that you’re using for overhead welding? I’d like to just buy it instead of making it ourselves. I’m looking for an item that I can use to hold the steel up. Love your videos!
Hello - what is the name of the support you use to adjust plate position/move up and down? And would/does it bolt to a weld table?
gracias por los consejos , los voy a poner en practica , saludos cordiales parcero
that trick of flicking the forming slag off the end of the rod after termination is genius
On that vertical weld are you concerned with the bead being concave? Got any tips for getting the metal to lay in there flat or convex? Thank you. Also are you running constant current or constant voltage?
Thanks for showing us how its done 👍
Alot of good info, Thanks
Thanks for the tips. Helpfull as always. 👍👍
Sorry if I missed it In the video but how much amp are you using and do you use a different amp on root passes? I’m just taking a welding class in school right now so just trying to get some tips
Nvm man heard you in the vid love watching these
very nice, great job...thank you, helpful
When I weld with 7018 in the overhead position, I've had trouble with the slag snuffing out my arc. How should I correct this?
Mark Lowry check your travel angle. Keep it about 10-15°. If you’re straight up and down it can snuff out the arc. Also, turn up your arc force a bit if you have it as an option.
@@GodslilRedneck23 -- Roger that. Thanks.
I love the naiveness when he says "happy new year" 😁
Really good information
Paul Gimenez thank you.
Thank you for all the videos you put out there to help us learn.
I have a question about a 45° "T-joint". Either with MIG or ARC welding. How would you correctly grind/prepare the plate that comes in on a 45° (or any other angle than 90° actually) ? It would be useful to learn the correct way. Thank you in advance.
Probably a dremel like tool
I don't think he did it on purpose, but
"Ladies and gentleman... And Paul."
Sorry Paul.
Paul?
Hello Sir,
my Name is Haiqal from Indonesia
would you like to make video that explain how to do reweld / repair welding on a steel plate using stick welding down head with bevel single v butt joint.
the first weld we assume that is had a defect so need to grind it till the fill/hot pass layer, and then we weld there again.
that is for my undergraduate thesis
Hopefully you can help me out
Thank You Sir
Good Welds and Instructions..
Hello Sir,
my Name is Haiqal from Indonesia
would you like to make video that explain how to do reweld / repair welding on a steel plate using stick welding down head.
the first weld we assume that is had a defect so need to grind it till the fill/hot pass layer, and then we weld there again.
that is for my undergraduate thesis
Hopefully you can help me out
Thank You Sir
Can’t wait for my welding class to start back
Same mine starts tomorrow lol
I know that feeling.
Leon Hough good luck and have fun.
Thank you so much sir good video !!
Me too dude, I start back next Monday.
Please do a video on selecting the right shade for different processes and amps
What’s the best way to prevent porosity whenever you’re doing the restarts?
Can you do basic welding for pipe.....i want to learn it because many time i do that it will be fail
This guy is a dang good stick welder
Always great content well presented.
Off the subject Red, but have you ran enough of the new Esab electrodes to compare them to Atom Arc or Excalibur? Thanks I value your opinion.
Tommy T yes, I’ve done quite a bit with these rods. I’ve never been a fan of the Atom Arc (just personal preference) I’ve been an Excalibur fan for years, these new rods from ESAB run just as good as the Excalibur but arc initiation is excellent. The graphite tip seems to help a lot on start up.
@@GodslilRedneck23 thanks bud, much appreciated. I'll see if I can get a demo pack from my lws.
Ya making me wanna weld something but it 11:30pm 🤣
Da ve it’s never too late 😂
7018 is my favorite welding rod except for trying to restart a weld I certainly will be trying the file next time I weld with it
So I'm wondering how some people can keep such a steep angle? When I was doing 2f I was taught to be almost flat with my rod on the first pass to avoid undercut. Is it more about where the rod is in the joint?
With my 7018 overhead I struggle with the slag/puddle dipping into my rod n sticking it or disrupting the arc. When I get going I can go smooth but usually the first inch is a mess, any pointers?
Which is the best electrode for pipe welding ?
What is the angle of electrode over head welding.. ??
In vertical position, when do you weld upwards and when do you weld downwards? I had some 3mm 50x30 rectangular and i was unable to weld it (with 7018, 2,5mm electrodes) upwards like i've seen you do it, without putting holes in the material. If i traveled faster, the weld did not penetrate enough. On that particular setup, i found out that going downwards suited best for me.
I have to mention i am new to stick welding (i am experienced with mig welding, but with stick...i am a beginner)
The most important aspect on welding 7018 downwards is to start the arc at the top of the bead you want to make and build a little pile of metal untill the excess slag drops,from that moment start moving down and keep the rod almost horizontally as you travell down,waiting for the right moment when the exces molted slag drops out to expose the bare molted metal to advance downwards,practice that and you will see the results,do not thank me for that,just practice and keep burning rods ^^
When stick welding, the only time you weld vertical down, is with a rod which the number ends in **10 or **11, or **48.
With other rods, it may "look" ok, but will not give a decent result at all.
There will be plenty of people try to argue it. If your knocking something up for at home then dk what you like, but if you need any sort of quality in your work,.. do it properly 👍👍
any tips for 7018s like the weldwell Ph77s, majority of caddys I deal with only have a 60-63 OCV which makes dealing with the 77s (7018) a sod even thou alot of the weld procedures here use 77s, most caddys here more suited to 16TCs(7016s) 50 OCV... very few caddys I come across have a 70 OCV to assist that arc distance ... actually only one brand ive found that likes the 7018(PH77s) here miller.... prob is we have stratas and XA (both good caddies but lack the OCV)
All my restarts are humped up after i go back to tie into the divot. Ive been having trouble with the tie ins trying for my 3g smaw cert. Even flat im having trouble with the tie in and the weld being too high where im restarting.
Very helpful to me thanks👍
First time I have seen a weave for the root run on a fillet weld, vertical up.
Damn dude you weld exactly like me. That's basically all the exact advice I just gave a new coworker
What if you don’t want to whip out and leave a crater, but instead you get to the end and want a good thick bead, instead of getting to the end and it overheating/wanting to burn out
Nice welds👍 can't wait to be that good... where did you get the pen???
thank you
You can get quite a few starts and stops from one welding rod. practice, practice, practice and be VERY critical of your results.
Filing the end of a rod... ?.... An old welders trick...pinching off the balled end of the rod with a pair of pliers works a lot faster and just as good. Use pliers with good sharp (file like) teeth.
Could y’all do a video using 1/8 6013 and 7014 AC 1G position please?
I. Wouuld like to see same s.tarts and stops but on pipe diifferent m materials if that would matter as im learning to be able to do many different types of pipe and stuff on our large drum at work would like to produce stainless moonshine still parts as well so different material will mainly be tig on that but mig or arc on the stuff at work. Also i have a large beard and wonder what your favorite beard saver stuff is for wrlding. Like snap on bear aprons or what. Im new but just got a ssimder 10 in one on order to practice more at home and do farm projects ive always just had friends come weld shit for 10+ years so itll take me a while to get good i know
Good stuff 👏
Great Vid, thx and keep up the good work
Can yall do a video on p5 rod and explain the difference between them and regular old 6010
Where are you located
There’s things you can do with 7018 that they say you can’t do.
I actually passed my 3g certification on 1” plate doing nothing but weave beads.
In 1997