One thing I failed to mention in this video is how to adjust take up. Some triggers have a pair of tabs just behind the pad where you place your finger. You can easily bend those forward to remove take up. However, this trigger does not have those tabs, so, as far as I know, its take up cannot be adjusted. When I tested the trigger, though, the take up didn't seem objectionable to me.
Hey, Dan. Yeah, one of the last things I'll do will be to give the whole gun a once-over, cleaning up any remaining casting marks (or filing marks) and also hitting any remaining sharp edges. There will definitely be a lot of cleanup to do!
Any tips on how to do that, other than to just see if the parts, once installed, run free? I wonder whether another frame would be any better. I sort of doubt it.
@@jayphilipwilliams - I seem to remember Brownells selling a set of extended pins for checking the relationship of the sear and hammer outside of the frame. Long plug gages might serve the same purpose. Measure between the gages on each side. Any difference between the two sides would indicate that the pin holes were not drilled square.
One thing I failed to mention in this video is how to adjust take up. Some triggers have a pair of tabs just behind the pad where you place your finger. You can easily bend those forward to remove take up. However, this trigger does not have those tabs, so, as far as I know, its take up cannot be adjusted. When I tested the trigger, though, the take up didn't seem objectionable to me.
Thank you so much for the video!
Jay, I'm still enjoying your videos No need to reply but thanks for keeping hese coming. They are better than a gunsmithing class on 1911's!
Thanks for the great tool list!
While dealing with a few caspian Hi Caps, man those safety tang recesses.... crazy sharp! Looking good!
Hey, Dan. Yeah, one of the last things I'll do will be to give the whole gun a once-over, cleaning up any remaining casting marks (or filing marks) and also hitting any remaining sharp edges. There will definitely be a lot of cleanup to do!
Coming along nicely
I think it is almost mandatory to check whether all of the pin holes were drilled square before anyone starts cutting on the frame.
Any tips on how to do that, other than to just see if the parts, once installed, run free? I wonder whether another frame would be any better. I sort of doubt it.
@@jayphilipwilliams - I seem to remember Brownells selling a set of extended pins for checking the relationship of the sear and hammer outside of the frame. Long plug gages might serve the same purpose. Measure between the gages on each side. Any difference between the two sides would indicate that the pin holes were not drilled square.
why not return that junk frame you will never have a decent trigger pull with the hammer pin being out of plum
oil it the damn thing