How Long To Cure 3D Resin Prints - Determine Curing Time For 3D Printed Miniatures & Models
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This explains how long to cure your 3D resin printed miniatures and models in a UV curing station. It also discusses how to prepare your prints for curing. And it covers how to detect signs of over-curing your 3D resin printed models. Not all UV curing stations (brand name or DIY) are created equal. So, you might have to reduce or increase your curing times depending on your specific setup. The technique featured in this video is applicable to most UV curing stations including the Phrozen Luna Cure, Anycubic Wash And Cure, Elegoo Mercury Curing Station, Creality 3D UW-01 Washing and Curing Machine, Sovol 3D SL1 Curing Machine, and others.
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You can download free copies of all of the models featured in this video here at Miguel Zavala's Thingiverse page: www.thingivers...
The Gnoll Berserker figure is by Verlock and can be downloaded for free here: www.thingivers...
Here are links to recommended 3D resin UV curing stations in different price ranges:
ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure Station: amzn.to/3bgJrvx
ELEGOO Mercury Curing Machine: amzn.to/3uTkgqI
Creality 3D UW-01 Washing and Curing Machine: amzn.to/3ehyxaG
Sovol 3D SL1 Curing Machine: amzn.to/30gRZfu
Generic 3D Printer UV Resin Curing Light with Solar Turntable: amzn.to/3sNu6IS
DEX FIT Nitrile Work Gloves FN330 (3-pack): amzn.to/3qZAGv6
Fast ABS-Like Fast Curing Non-Brittle 3D Printing Resin (Grey, 1kg): amzn.to/3pvmJEP
Tenacious (1KG) a Flexible and Highly Impact Resistant Resin: amzn.to/3puRcmq
6.5L Ultrasonic Cleaner: amzn.to/3puHqRf
Locking Pickle Container: amzn.to/3onVZog
DEX FIT Nitrile Work Gloves FN330 (3-pack): amzn.to/3qZAGv6
Mean Green Super Strength Cleaner and Degreaser: amzn.to/3iURGzP
99% Isopropyl Alcohol 1000ml (6-pack): amzn.to/3j5JBs3
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How Long To Cure 3D Resin Prints - Determine Curing Time For 3D Printed Miniatures & Models
Can you wait to cure things and have them still be fine? What I mean is can I print something off at let's say like 8 or 9pm and then wait until like noon the next day to cure them in the sun without it ruining the item? Obviously I don't want to be handling the uncured item so it'd probably just sit on a plate or something after being washed
If they are out of direct sun or UV light, yes.
But be sure to wash them before you cure them or you’ll have some very sticky, globby prints. 😀
I have a statue of 16 cm heigh, hollow, and take weeks in the sun to get full cured soo..
Height x size (resin used also calculated as volume) so if your tallest print is 32mm from build plate it's .32 multiplied by the total amount of resin used for build in ML.
So for example 32mm in height x 55ml used would be .32x.55=0.176 so 176sec (2min and 56sec)curing time.
This gives you the minimum curing time necessary
When you slice all the relevant info necessary to determine curing time pops up.
This is of course on the assumption your filling the build plate, if you just printing one single piece, its height x size x layer count. This gives you the maximum curing time not to exceed.
Hello, is there any calculation with only "diy uv curing station" ?
I just have 50 watt & 90 lumens uv light. I print mini model such as 1:64 rims, seat, steering wheel, and i usually turn my uv light for 15 minutes, and i can feel the support is still soft. Any suggestion for that? thanks for advance
@@1337FLINT.
1:64 scale (27mm) you will calculate this the same height x volume (volume is the total number of ML used on the entire build plate print.
The problem with DIY UV designs is people tend to think all UV lights are the same, you can have a UV lamp that pushes the correct wattage necessary for curing some items however you need to ensure your lamp produces the correct UV wave length. For curing liquid Resins the necessary NM (nanometer) wave length for most resins is 360-420 (it does vary by a few NM) it can be less or more depending on resin types (water washable, flexible, strengthening, etc.).
Yet if your wavelength (NM) is within this range your where you need to be. 90% of the UV lights you can buy from Amazon, etc do not fit this range, they fall in the lower ranges of nail paint curing and/or aquarium warmth lighting.
Contact the light manufacturer of the lights your using and find out what the wave length (NM) of your bulbs are. Normally you can find this information in the Manuel and sometimes on the box itself.
@@1337FLINT.
Also 50watts at a baseline of 555nm=34150 lumen.
If your using 50watts depending on the type of bulbs you should be pushing 370lm-600lm for curing. 90lm not gonna cut it.
@@gettingpolitical Thanks for the info, ah that's why i cure them for 15 minutes it's still soft (most of it are support). Maybe increasing the duration of my portable uv light might work?
@@1337FLINT.
You can try increasing how long you cure it for but without knowing what wave length the UV light is emitting on I cannot provide an exact calculation for curing time.
I'm trying to find these times for my DLP Anycubic Craftsman resin. The spec sheets seem to always talk about during print cure times not post print cure times...
Thanks for the helpful information.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
fuck me, i was curing minis for 30 mins XD
overcuring is way better than undercuring. don't poison yourself or others
I’ve been doing 10-17 minutes. Idk what these people are all talking about 90 seconds to a few mins???? What???? When I do that it has NO EFFECT even on much smaller parts. Parts slightly bigger than the one in this video I give 10-15 minutes but I put multiple in the machine and they come out absolutely pristine.
So phrozen claims the aqua 8k minimums are 20-30mins but that seems crazy high what do u think
That does seem incredibly high.
That seems high. I just got my 1st bottle of 8K resin this week. I'll give a try and make a video in the future to see what it takes.
@@3DPrintingMinis any updates on this?
I’ve been doing 10-17 mins on my cures on small models/doll pieces and they come out pristine. 2-5 minutes has utterly no effect so idk why everyone says to do that. They come out still gummy and no difference. 10 minutes nearly perfect. Extra 3-5 mins and it’s absolute perfection.
Hmmm, I have a question about this, can "over curing" while printing help make the mini come out better? Or is that process not powerful enough to really help cure the middle of the mini?
I made a DIY curing station, covered that bitch is mylar and UV led lights, put a rotating display in it, and straight up can't get my prints to not be sticky. I got the same UV lights that Adam Savage posted on his DIY video. I ordered another light to try it out, but it feels very discouraging.
Man, that thing sounds like it could cure a Deathstar. Congrats on the awesome build.
Sticky deathstar
I have miniature models (1” coffee mug) that doesn’t seem to cure at all. No matter how long I cure, it still scratches off :(
using Sunlu Standard Resin and Elegoo Mercury Plus curing station
I'm looking at getting my first resin printer. But I can't afford a Curing Station. How do you cure it without one?
You can but curing outside in daylight can be a little dicey. You can use a Home Depot bucket, tin foil and a UV light from Amazon to make one for under $50. If you're going to go through all the trouble of buying a printer you might as well make/buy a decent way to cure your prints.
@@3DPrintingMinis Cheers, since making this comment I've settled on water curing with a UV LED Grow Light for plants. They're cheap and powerful UV lights and the water apparently gives great light refraction, allowing for curing from all angles.
Super cheap. Grab $6 vice lamp from Walmart and a UV light bulb. Place models on tin foil (because it reflects UV light) and place lamp overhead.
These curing stations are nice for quality of life but wayyy to expensive and an unnecessarily complex solution for curing minis. Like paying for a $100 car wash when you can pay your brother to do it for $20, or yourself for free.
what's your mixture of tenacious to regular resin?
I use 4:1 Standard : Tenacious and it works wonderfully well.
Excellent video! Concise and informative!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you.
Love the Bach music in the background. Bradenburgs ?
I'm trying to get into 3D resin printing do I need the curing station also?
and which one do you recommend? I wanna get the Sonic Mini 4K printer
you can get UV lights off ebay that are exact same specs as Phrozens, and I made my own turntable too off youtube tut with ikea lazy susan
Phorzen's curing stations are good (I have the large Luna model) but they do run a little expensive. That being said, whatever station you can find on Amazon that fits the size pieces/models you'll be printing should be fine. You can also make your own using a Home Depot bucket, tin foil and a UV light from Amazon. But, I prefer my stuff a little more solid and less likely to fall apart, so I spend the extra money on having an actual curing station. But, you totally don't need to buy a fancy or expensive one if you don't want to.
You need to cure them, but how you go about that is your choice.
New to all this...
Have you tried "water curing"?
Water curing only matters if you dont fully clean the miniature, the reason it works is that the water keeps the excess resin off the miniature while it cures. I cure my stuff in Denatured Alcohol and never need to water cure.
I'm yet to cure my first model. I'm using Anycubic basic Grey. I have a UV torch (baby one). Any additional tips? Currently I'm thinking a fair few minutes, looking for yellowing, hardness and scratch resistance
Sorry, I have no feedback on a UV torch and its curing times. If you're doing that why not just put it outside in the sun for 5 mins. That's free and seems to work pretty well for other RUclipsrs as well.
@@3DPrintingMinis maybe even a clear glass container over it to prevent particles or the random bird dropping 😂, it has happened before 😂
Height x size (volume)
I ended up having all my minis in an airtight container until I got a curing station. $80AUD on Amazon and it folds away.
How long after washing you should cure the Model or Any max or min time durations ?
You should probably let them dry overnight. I’ve also started using a cheap, battery operated airbrush dry off my prints after washing. I’ll making a video showing how I do this later this week.
What is tenacious? I’m new at resin printing
It’s an extra strong, flexible resin made by Siraya Tech.
@@3DPrintingMinis and a 75% blu / 25% tenacious mix make durable glock frames.
Siraya Tech really nailed it with cheap strong resin.
What brand resin printers you have on this video? I'm looking into purchasing one but still not sure which I want
Elegoo are solid and affordable. Phrozen are a little bit sturdier/better but more expensive. Honestly, if you're trying to save money you can get perfectly good prints from an Elegoo. I just buy Phrozen printers now because I'm spoiled and I don't mind spending a little extra money on their printers. I've been printing a ton of really great D&D miniatures with a two-year-old Elegoo Mars 2 (not even the Pro version). Wait until Black Friday later this month and you should be able to pick one up for under $200 on Amazon or the Elegoo site.
@@3DPrintingMinis I don't mind spending the extra cash. It was either those two or the anycubic but thanks for reaching out to me. Just so hard at times when you look into these things. Lol
@@BOOBROWN74 I'd look into the Sonic Mighty 8K. It's $50 off right now on Amazon and there's some deal where you can get a free bottle of resin. The build plate is bigger so you can make more and/or larger models in one print. The resolution of the Mini 8K kind of seems like overkill. But the 8K resolution on the Mighty makes more sense. If I could do it again I would have bought a Mighty 8K instead of a Mini 8K. That being said my Mighty 4K is a beast and pumps out lots of great prints, too. But, seriously, I think the Mighty 8K is where it's at. Also comes with wifi and free camera built in.
@@3DPrintingMinis yeah I was looking at the mighty 8k and funny you mentioned Amazon cause I saw it cheaper there as well. Thanks for the info. You help me out and I'm convinced that's the route I'm taking. 👍
What happens if I don’t cure my models?
They don't get hardened, can be prone to breaking and generally are sticky and flimsy if not cured.
@@Zontarz ok, i appreciate the response. I have had decent luck with most of my prints coming out fairly strong, but recently have had a few sticky prints. Think I will be getting a light this next paycheck 👍
Sticky prints might mean they weren't cleaned well enough. Or, that your cleaning solution has become too dirty (i.e. has too much washed off resin in it). You might want to swap out your Mean Green, IPA, etc. for a fresh batch.
@@3DPrintingMinis that was a suspicion as well, after I had a few sticky models I switched out my solution so I think you are correct 👍 thank you for the advice
@@Zontarz that's interesting i would think that if it's rubberish it wouldn't break as easily . I still have no idea that my cureing time is right or not . But i also paint them sooooo no clue if it's sticky or not .
Small one's 3 minute's big hollowed one's 4 . Not hollowed 5 .