This is amazing and thank you for the details! It wonderful to be able to follow in the footsteps of those who walk the walk and don’t just talk the talk😊 and Cattails… who knew??? 😮
So the combustion air for your fire is air that’s in your home. That’s already conditioned. You’ve heated it and that is drawing a vacuum on your drafty home which is now bringing in several times the amount of air cold air when the fires going? The ideal thing when you had the floor open, would’ve been to run a cold air duct to the outside so that your combustion air didn’t create a negative pressure inside the living space? Other than that, this is a series that’s just wonderful to watch.
I have to tell you that it takes quite a bunch of confidence and not only what you’re doing but that you’re doing it in a project like this knowing that after I build all this that it’s going to work as described like in my situation, I’d like to go to somebody’s house That has a system like this and I’d like to see it in operation in the winter time so that my wife and I will be comfortable not only reading about what it will act like but actually seeing it😄 Good on you !! ❤️🔥🙏🏼🇺🇸
Fine job Sir. Made rocketstoves more then 45 years ago. With different materials then there are today. I have never used a mass as your sofa to store heat. Just a little mass. On the top of the Bell you could cut out a square. Let say 300 by 300 mm or a bit less. Welt a frame in. That can hold a thick square piece of cast-iron. That works splended to cook on or just to heat 5 liter of water in a kettle.
Well, considering inside the pipe and the stove is negative pressure because the wind passing over your chimney and the heat that is in the chimney. There should never be a monoxide or a smoke risk at all unless your chimney is not in spec so that you get downdraft situations, but, I’m sure you’ve addressed that we say in the states if you’re within 10 feet of the peak of the house, then chimney must be 2 feet higher than the peak and virtually eliminates downdraft
ruclips.net/video/j1tlvrmLxdA/видео.html shows it oiled and in use, but the house is a long term reclamation project. It'll be quite a while before the whole wall is finished.
Is there any possibility that you could show us the temperature as it enters the chimney? I’d like to know what the stack temperature is when this thing is in operation?
That makes sense if it runs down the flu and right back into the breach of the boiler it’s gonna burn and you’re right everything that is not water vapor will burn off didn’t think of that👍👍👍👍👍
Amazing video great to see one being built in the UK and such an in depth video. Where in the UK would you recommend getting firebricks and the ducting from. Thanks
I bought the ducting online, from a few sources. Most of it came from eBay. The fire brick I bought delivered on a pallet because I live so far from anywhere that sells it. If I'd had the option I'd have just collected what I needed from a shop.
1:22:31 in America some would say that’s “dead nuts” sort of like saying “spot on” I was curious if that’s specific to the US or if others use this term too.
Thank you so much for sharing this. It looks so good, well done! I'm looking to do a bench-bell system in my crofthouse (we have no clay). How do you find the heat distribution through the house? upstairs and in adjacent rooms? Do you keep the doorways open, or do you find the heat distributes over time OK?
We just open the internal doors. Once the heater has been on twenty minutes or so the living room is bordering on too warm even, so opening internal doors regulates the heat nicely.
maybe surrount the rizer with fermaculite was better? that white stuff will last long enough, special the wire wrapped around it. Mine idea was to build one in the greenhouse and then pipes into the home with radiators, but I am scared for that the heat exchanger for the water will be get to hot, and need a save place to put it there. Your idea of using stones and not a drum is nice, special in a green house with plastic covering it can easely be damaged. I presume I can use just the red stones on the sides, I need heat resistance stones on the top, or red stones and a fermaculite cover and then the red stoned cover that for insulation and heat protection.
I'm 3 min in, and being a farmer, this video will take me several days to get through. So I'll ask a few questions ahead of time. I run a wood stove here in South Africa - have for about 10 years. Due to our horrendous electricity generation/supply issues, (google 'Load Shedding in South Africa'), I am wanting to get 'off grid' completely. About 6 months ago I connected my hot water geyser to my wood stove - it works, but just takes a lot of wood and a lot of time to get it hot - not an ideal situation in summer where it gets REAL hot here. I don't need a mass heater to heat my house, (although my wife may disagree in winter), but I am wondering if I can use one to replace my wood stove - cook top and oven - and also heat my water at the same time? Do you have any suggestions in this regard? Much appreciated. I have seen a shorter video with you and the missus sitting on the mass and so I'm sure I'm going to enjoy this one.
As it happens I have a stove/oven/water heater planned. I picked up a scrap aga stove that was being scrapped, that I'll fit a rocket core to. That'll be an experimental build though, and you need something guaranteed to work. Matt Walker has done a lot of work on stoves like you need though, and sells plans. I exchanged a couple of emails with him before I picked up the old aga, he's a very friendly, knowledgeable bloke. walkerstoves.com/
@@CairnOfDunnCroftPermaculture - Thanks. I checked out his website, but when I convert $ to R I'll need to rob a bank to pay for those plans...😬. I'll figure this out - one way or the other...
@@The_Hairy_Farmer The really innovative bit of his design is the riserless core. But if you look through his youtube videos closely enough you can actually see the layout of that area. I know others have done so. It's a bit of a pain, but can be done.
I'm sure I've seen a design for a large cast iron stove / oven / mass heater / water heater. A video mentioning it and showing it being used. It was used in the summer on a hot day, and that's one of the downsides of using it. You can't specify whether you want the heat energy to go only to one thing and not others. It's been years since I've seen it, but if I run across the video again I'll try to remember to link it here. You know how urls work, right? I don't know enough about your requirements and needs to be able to give any real suggestions. I'm trying to figure out what you're asking for. It sounds like you want to be able to choose to direct your heat generation only to the hot water function and not to any other function. I do not think this would be a reasonable solution. The basic designs I see in my head seem wildly impractical or unnecessarily expensive. Your best best might be to just build a dedicated and highly optimized heat source specifically to heat the hot water for your home. Also look into something to make sure that the temperature of what comes out of your tap is based on your knob instead of how hot the water in the tank is. You may experience wild temperature swings in how hot that water is. Full disclosure, I don't operate a household wood-fired anything. What I'm saying here is based on half-remembered knowledge from diving deep into researching this a few years ago, and recently wandering back in to the subject.
Dagsè boer. Look up "Little Aussie Rockets", he has great builds for what you wanna do. If I hadn't left SA a half decade ago, I'd put something together for your hot water! Here in Auckland there is not enough cold nor lack of power for the rockets to be in demand on the South Island yet.
Not where I live. Above 40mph winds the damper is essential because the draw through the chimney is so hard it pulls fuel through the burn tunnel otherwise.
Where utilitarian functionality meets the fountain of human creativity, well done to you.
Thanks!
This is amazing and thank you for the details! It wonderful to be able to follow in the footsteps of those who walk the walk and don’t just talk the talk😊 and Cattails… who knew??? 😮
Thank you!
So the combustion air for your fire is air that’s in your home. That’s already conditioned. You’ve heated it and that is drawing a vacuum on your drafty home which is now bringing in several times the amount of air cold air when the fires going? The ideal thing when you had the floor open, would’ve been to run a cold air duct to the outside so that your combustion air didn’t create a negative pressure inside the living space? Other than that, this is a series that’s just wonderful to watch.
How fun to go back in time and see it from the beginning! It's a wonder!
I have to tell you that it takes quite a bunch of confidence and not only what you’re doing but that you’re doing it in a project like this knowing that after I build all this that it’s going to work as described like in my situation, I’d like to go to somebody’s house That has a system like this and I’d like to see it in operation in the winter time so that my wife and I will be comfortable not only reading about what it will act like but actually seeing it😄
Good on you !!
❤️🔥🙏🏼🇺🇸
I'd never even seen one until I built one!
Absolutely brilliant. Enjoy the heat , you deserve it a real labour of love.
Thanks!
Great job!! Awesome work 😊
Thanks!
Fine job Sir.
Made rocketstoves more then 45 years ago.
With different materials then there are today.
I have never used a mass as your sofa to store heat. Just a little mass.
On the top of the Bell you could cut out a square. Let say 300 by 300 mm or a bit less.
Welt a frame in. That can hold a thick square piece of cast-iron. That works splended to cook on or just to heat 5 liter of water in a kettle.
Thanks!
2:41:06 Off topic, but I would love to see a better shot of that ink!😊
I'm an industrial insulator . When you work or even just move or are near the ceramic fiber, if you like your lungs, wear the face mask.
Thanks!
Well, considering inside the pipe and the stove is negative pressure because the wind passing over your chimney and the heat that is in the chimney. There should never be a monoxide or a smoke risk at all unless your chimney is not in spec so that you get downdraft situations, but, I’m sure you’ve addressed that we say in the states if you’re within 10 feet of the peak of the house, then chimney must be 2 feet higher than the peak and virtually eliminates downdraft
My chimney is the highest part of the house, I never have to worry about it drawing.
I found various spoons and the handle end fantastic for plastering. 😁
Thanks!
Do you have some shots of the finished RMH? It would be great to see it with the pallet wall completed, the pipework and other little jobs tidied up
ruclips.net/video/j1tlvrmLxdA/видео.html shows it oiled and in use, but the house is a long term reclamation project. It'll be quite a while before the whole wall is finished.
Is there any possibility that you could show us the temperature as it enters the chimney? I’d like to know what the stack temperature is when this thing is in operation?
It's typically 40c for the first hour, then creeps up to 50c.
At 122°F it must condensate?
@theusconstitution1776 the creosote and soot have been burned as fuel, worst that can condense is a little water vapour.
That makes sense if it runs down the flu and right back into the breach of the boiler it’s gonna burn and you’re right everything that is not water vapor will burn off didn’t think of that👍👍👍👍👍
Amazing video great to see one being built in the UK and such an in depth video. Where in the UK would you recommend getting firebricks and the ducting from. Thanks
I bought the ducting online, from a few sources. Most of it came from eBay. The fire brick I bought delivered on a pallet because I live so far from anywhere that sells it. If I'd had the option I'd have just collected what I needed from a shop.
1:22:31 in America some would say that’s “dead nuts” sort of like saying “spot on” I was curious if that’s specific to the US or if others use this term too.
I’m in Wisconsin and have never heard of “dead nuts.” May be a regional or generational thing.
I'm from Kansas and have never heard the phrase either
Great! Thanks :)
Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing this. It looks so good, well done! I'm looking to do a bench-bell system in my crofthouse (we have no clay).
How do you find the heat distribution through the house? upstairs and in adjacent rooms? Do you keep the doorways open, or do you find the heat distributes over time OK?
We just open the internal doors. Once the heater has been on twenty minutes or so the living room is bordering on too warm even, so opening internal doors regulates the heat nicely.
Probably takes some time to learn to drive! Well done and thanks again for sharing@@CairnOfDunnCroftPermaculture
@@nancyreading5730 Thanks!
And of course, under that metal tape, you sealed those joints with high temperature silicone for a permanent fix😋
Only the exposed joint has high temp silicone tape, the others are buried in the cob. It's a 6 ton seal ;-)
Are there building regs loopholes we can use to comply with house insurance etc?
Not that I'm aware of. But in the US, things are changing. So hopefully there may be a UK standard at some point.
How did your drainage systems cope with the storms recently?
Absolutely fine. The biggest pond took on quite a bit of water but still has plenty of capacity yet, and the swales are already set to winter mode.
Better than the duck house with any luck.
maybe surrount the rizer with fermaculite was better? that white stuff will last long enough, special the wire wrapped around it. Mine idea was to build one in the greenhouse and then pipes into the home with radiators, but I am scared for that the heat exchanger for the water will be get to hot, and need a save place to put it there. Your idea of using stones and not a drum is nice, special in a green house with plastic covering it can easely be damaged. I presume I can use just the red stones on the sides, I need heat resistance stones on the top, or red stones and a fermaculite cover and then the red stoned cover that for insulation and heat protection.
I'd avoid using vermiculite around the riser.
@@CairnOfDunnCroftPermaculture There are quite some stuff usable, like aircrete and isolation stones who need to get cut. Isolation
is the magic word.
I'm looking to do this myself. For the life of me I cannot source a barrel. Can I ask how you got yours?
We found it on ebay!
Cheers@@CairnOfDunnCroftPermaculture
Scrap metal dealers, I've sold mine from work on FB marketplace for cheap.
The glass wool sir is very dangerus for our health! What you think?
I think it's important to wear a mask when using it.
I'm 3 min in, and being a farmer, this video will take me several days to get through. So I'll ask a few questions ahead of time. I run a wood stove here in South Africa - have for about 10 years. Due to our horrendous electricity generation/supply issues, (google 'Load Shedding in South Africa'), I am wanting to get 'off grid' completely. About 6 months ago I connected my hot water geyser to my wood stove - it works, but just takes a lot of wood and a lot of time to get it hot - not an ideal situation in summer where it gets REAL hot here. I don't need a mass heater to heat my house, (although my wife may disagree in winter), but I am wondering if I can use one to replace my wood stove - cook top and oven - and also heat my water at the same time? Do you have any suggestions in this regard? Much appreciated. I have seen a shorter video with you and the missus sitting on the mass and so I'm sure I'm going to enjoy this one.
As it happens I have a stove/oven/water heater planned. I picked up a scrap aga stove that was being scrapped, that I'll fit a rocket core to. That'll be an experimental build though, and you need something guaranteed to work. Matt Walker has done a lot of work on stoves like you need though, and sells plans. I exchanged a couple of emails with him before I picked up the old aga, he's a very friendly, knowledgeable bloke.
walkerstoves.com/
@@CairnOfDunnCroftPermaculture - Thanks. I checked out his website, but when I convert $ to R I'll need to rob a bank to pay for those plans...😬. I'll figure this out - one way or the other...
@@The_Hairy_Farmer The really innovative bit of his design is the riserless core. But if you look through his youtube videos closely enough you can actually see the layout of that area. I know others have done so. It's a bit of a pain, but can be done.
I'm sure I've seen a design for a large cast iron stove / oven / mass heater / water heater. A video mentioning it and showing it being used. It was used in the summer on a hot day, and that's one of the downsides of using it. You can't specify whether you want the heat energy to go only to one thing and not others. It's been years since I've seen it, but if I run across the video again I'll try to remember to link it here. You know how urls work, right?
I don't know enough about your requirements and needs to be able to give any real suggestions. I'm trying to figure out what you're asking for. It sounds like you want to be able to choose to direct your heat generation only to the hot water function and not to any other function. I do not think this would be a reasonable solution. The basic designs I see in my head seem wildly impractical or unnecessarily expensive. Your best best might be to just build a dedicated and highly optimized heat source specifically to heat the hot water for your home. Also look into something to make sure that the temperature of what comes out of your tap is based on your knob instead of how hot the water in the tank is. You may experience wild temperature swings in how hot that water is.
Full disclosure, I don't operate a household wood-fired anything. What I'm saying here is based on half-remembered knowledge from diving deep into researching this a few years ago, and recently wandering back in to the subject.
Dagsè boer. Look up "Little Aussie Rockets", he has great builds for what you wanna do. If I hadn't left SA a half decade ago, I'd put something together for your hot water! Here in Auckland there is not enough cold nor lack of power for the rockets to be in demand on the South Island yet.
Cleaning this will be pain in the ass.
@@lukaszsendla5642 takes thirty minutes, once a year. Far less than any other heating system.
💪
A re-edit?
Don't do the damper, the flow control is always at the firebox to get a full burn! Avoids creosote...
Not where I live. Above 40mph winds the damper is essential because the draw through the chimney is so hard it pulls fuel through the burn tunnel otherwise.