Hot Water Rocket Stove II - BUILD-
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Thermal siphoning rocket stove for an outdoor bathtub, though you could use it for an off grid hot water system. The advantage of the rocket stove is a clean and efficient burn. This system uses 5 metres of 20mm annealed copper pipe, and though I designed the rocket in a J configuration, it worked better as a batch box. There is a vortex generator at the base of the riser and basically I was able to heat 200 litres of cool water straight out of the tap to 67 degrees Celcius / 152.7 F in 1.5 hrs. Please let me know if you want the plans for this build, as I will make them available on my website if there is interest. www.littleaussierocketstoves.com Build and use at your own risk. Little Aussie Rocket Stoves cannot be held responsible for any damages or injuries as a result of the viewer building this stove.
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The hesitation and steam blasting is caused by the outlet pipe dropping down before the hose connects. The water rises to the top of the coil and is trapped, unable to descend. This causes it to become hot enough to become steam, the expansion of which causes those regular little blasts. A continuous uphill gradient on the outlet pipe will ensure correct operation.
Hey! Thanks for sharing that! That's a gem of information!! Thankyou!
I grew up in a fab shop, nice welding.
Need a one way flat valve on the hot side,add water or lower the exhaust below the water line and stuff a water hose on the cold side and get the air out of the coil.
Flap valve will keep the heat going one way without allowing any air to be pulled back in another flapper on the bottom flapping to the cold flow
Would regulate ebb and flow cycling
I've seen that it is possible to refrigerate te tube to turn round....the two parts of the tube must stays underwater,so you don't lose heat and time,someone explains that up here, nice job !🖖🏼
В бочке ниже ватерлинии тоже нужно змеевик с трубы нужно ставить. Тогда пар выходящий тоже будет греть воду в бочке. В входную часть холодной воды нужно ставить клапан обратный клапан. Тогда при больших выделениях пара будет воздерживаться давление на выход. Также устроено мойищие паровые аппараты.
Why did I fail to come across your video before? I looked at so many before I started my own experiments and this would have helped a lot. I built more or less the same set up with a 200 litre drum and the heat exchange coil from an old copper water tank set into a rough rocket stove made from cement blocks. That got me to where you are here. Then I built a cement hot tub with a capacity of about 1000 litres and made a "coil" from 1" galvanised pipe elbows and nipples. Built another stove from river stone and cement with a stainless baffle suspended in the middle of the coil to force the hot gases over the pipe. It took about six hours to heat the water to a comfortable temperature and of course during that time countless visits to feed the stove. Rocket stoves are very efficient with fuel, not so much with my time. The next iteration was to purchase a 1.25" stainless coil from the US (I couldn't find anyone here in Panama who could bend that diameter of tube). This coil is around 14" diameter with seven and a half turns stacked pretty close together. It acts like a fire basket do I can load it up once the fire has caught then leave it for a hour or so. It takes about two to three hours to heat the water. I found it was important to make sure there's a steady incline from the bottom of the hot tub, through the coil to the inlet. Syphoning is slow but steady with no bubbling. Inlet temp is too hot to hold my hand in but dissapates so fast there's no need for a protective screen. As you discovered, when the flow rate is slow the water in the drum or tub doesn't mix itself and the hot water stays on top of the cold. I usually give it a stir when I'm feeding the fire to see what the "real" temperature has got to. I'm giving such a long comment in the hope that someone else who fancies making an outdoor wood fired hot tub can fast track their project. Good luck whoever you are
My father had a similar rig and we got rid of the sputtering by not having the top of the coil brought back down to the same level as the inlet. We made it uphill all the way with smooth bends and it sputtered no more. On my rocket stove I put a 45 degree chute on the end of it so I could feed in longer pieces. The chute had a lid on it and the combustion air came from the end like your setup. You have some neat toys I wish I had.
Use a open ended spanner to make the pipe round again. 22mm spanner for 22mm pipe. You can start with a larger size if it's really oval. Just keep rotating it round the pipe as if your undoing an invisible nut until its round again 😊
For best results the thermal siphon needs to be all “Up”, without that steep down slope on the hot side copper pipe.
A steam lock at the top of the coiled tube stops the flow intermittently.
This project would work excellent with a small flow pump to flow the water through faster, before it forms steam.
Interesting project.
As a plumber, I approve this message. As soon as I saw the outlet go down I thought, uh oh. I was impressed with tig brazing the copper though. I've never seen that before.
Am besten eine kleine Pumpe nutzen. Es wäre auch besser das Wasser nicht von oben, sondern von unten in das Wasserfass einzuleiten.
Try taking your top pipe upwards to the top of your storage container. Thermal circulation requires cold water entering the lower end of the heating tube and as it heats, the water rises.
By returning the pipe down will trap the heated water at the top of the coil. Cheers
I love that cast iron third hand of yours, so simple yet genius.
It's a common aid in welding circles.
I also have a little daughter and the start of this video melted my heart! You have my like, and my sub.
You do spend some time being hard on yourself on what people think. I believe you did an outstanding job and you had fun doing it. You have some sweet skills and the end result was very impressive!
Thanks. This sort of thing is what I've had in mind to make a heater for my teardrop camper, in the floor. Your work and the comments below will be useful. But it'll still take some experimenting to determine size and a wood pellet feed system that would last the night.
Great first build!!! Great tips from the viewers also! Thank you everyone !
I built a solar heater a few yrs back (20' x 4', copper pipe every 6 inches, black and in insulated box with clear plex cover) I originally brought hot water upper pipe into swimming pool above water line. It melted the white pvc pipe 2" in just a few hours. Had to bring it in under the water line of the pool then it worked fine and greatly extended swimming season.
Doyle Pugmire great idea man 👍
You can take a old copper car radiator and put it on an old window unit air conditioner case.
Attach water hose connectors and build a fire under it.
Quick cheap easy hot water heater that will boil out all the hot water you need fast!
I love this video, as I’ve been waiting for someone to combine the rocket stove with the coiled copper heat exchanger.
Well done, and please keep refining this, as I feel there are a few refinements and air lock issues that could really hone this project beautifully.
A brilliant first go the best approach, and use of the rocket stove I’ve seen yet , love it !!
Thanks.
We are revisiting this one for sure! Thanks mate
Bloody BRILLIANT!! Thanks for the clear and concise instructions, but more importantly the science and reasoning behind it. Thank you, sir. That is inspiring!
Wow! I’m impressed with how efficient that thing is. I’ve seen a lot of different designs of this sort of water heating systems, and this is by far the best one I’ve seen yet. Great work! 👍🏻
Heaters like this work and last much better when the coil runs around the outside of the chimney and maintains good contact.
The copper inside the chimney will break down far quicker than you want.
You got it half right about thermosiphoning. It works because of hot and cold water but it also involves gravity. The water tank needs to be higher than the stove. The lines need to be on a constant upward angle from the stove to the water tank in order to get a good circulation. If the tank and the stove are the same height, and the lines dip it wont work very good.
Tried making one of these without this knowledge thinking the boiling water would have a stronger lift effect. Ha. Ha. Didn't do dick. If I used a vac to get it started it would pew pew some steam but that was the extent of it. Decided to make a gas condenser with the tube instead 😂
You also need low pressure check valves, or at least one, to "Gently guide" the direction you want it to go.
Else the heated water will try to go up both pipes, and thus won't do nuffin because it's head-butting the cold water trying to come DOWN both.
Thank you
You guys i think he daid it was a test show. I made mine with a five gallos bucket but electric with a 1500 heating element and all i do is cinnect for 3 to 5 depending on how hot i need the water. Works beautifully for about 15 years now specially when there is no water pressure. But his is nice and i will make one one. Simply
No not true, as long as the water level is higher than the stove, which with that big-ass barrel, it was probably about two and a half feet taller than the stove
Thank's for sharing ! I didn't pound down my computer but LOL seing you doing your heat exchanger-tango.
All the copper can bee bend/curved IF you heat it with your torch and cool it with cool water… Every time it harden again, same process...
Just as the little girl said, you did indeed make it goodly, and it did take quite a while.
Way to encourage your little beautiful angel. Joseph well done.
I love the way you say everything with such confidence, when clearly you have no idea about thermo siphoning.
The hot water line needs to keep rising out the top of the heater.
the upper end needs to flow uphill to a spot into your tank below the water line and above the cold water outlet of your tank. optimum rise is roughly 4 feet high for every 6 feet of distance from the heater. it will heat faster if you only use 3 turns and spread the top and bottom turns as far apart as possible. more pipe creates resistance in your water flow and cools the chimney inhibiting the burn.
Nailed it !
Ele pode reduzir o fluxo da agua, ajustando esse volume. Quanto menos água e mais tempo essa agua permanecer dentro da bobina, muito mais rapido vai aquecer, alem do que vai gerar mais vapor.
Eu encontro um erro nesse projeto: a agua ou vapor que retorna quente da bobina deve entrar no meio do tambor, isso é o correto, pois assim nao haverá perdas de calor como está acontecendo nesse projeto.
Permita eu fazer uma pergunta:
Voce fez o teste, fez alguma experiencia desse tipo, e usou espiras espaçadas, digo com mais espaço, e funcionou?
@@romilsonmagalhaes6487 rooster crowing
Great job mate ,well done , there is nothing wrong with diy jobs like this, we all got to start somewhere to learn and grow from experiences. This project was awesome thank you for sharing . 👍
Had a oil stove with the coil in the burner area so I just went off of how that rig went. Or similer. It can create quite a bit of steam in the line while circulating to heat up a 60 gallon hot water tank. We were releasing air quight a bit.
Totally brilliant. From a small stove. A great return on your heat. This would be great in a large hot tub. Even in winter. Great for all the family and friends. Great job. Hope to see many more such ideas. Thanks.
I agree with those who have comented below about the fall in the outlet pipe, it should be at the top of the stove pipe with the connection to the tank being a slope up to the tank entering the lower third of its full hight, the whole tank needs lifting up quite a bit, so its all above the height of the stove.
Remember Heat rises so give it somewhere to go.
'Don't try this at home-go to your friend's place' made me laugh out loud. The intro with your little one made me smile remembering when my adult children were that age full of dreams that they have realized today. [Edit] I am a gas fitter btw, great video production with humour and good welding techniques shown.
Good on ya mate from 🇨🇦 ... don’t listen to the people who say you didn’t do this or that right .... because ya know what .... “ it works”
I would suspect that, with your outlet still at the top, a 90 degree elbow and tubing straight down and, near the bottom of the tank, either a bend in the tube that matches the circumference of the tank or a couple of 45 degree elbows either-of-which hug the inside of the tank for a few inches, will get the heated water circulating and the temperature uniform (or nearly so) throughout the contents of the tank. Great concept and certainly a lot of admirable craftsmanship there.
Hello Erin, lovely to have met you. And thank you for your help.
As a (retired) general handyman who did a lot of plumbing I confess to some reflexive cringing at your copper joining technique. Try buying some silver solder, flux, and a propane torch. You’ll save so much time there will be a large hole in the wall from your beating your head against it from you reacting to the realization of all the unnecessary time and effort.
There’s a saying that when all you’ve got is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
Well said, thanks mate!
To round the pipe take two pieces of square steel. Put them together and tack weld them. Drill a hole in the middle at the seam. grind the tacks off and separate. Chamfer the edges by the hole at the seam so it won't pinch the pipe. Then put it over your pipe and squeeze it or hit it while rotating the block. This also works on frozen pipe. The warmer the pipe the easier.Thank you very much for sharing this video. You have a beautiful family. Be careful with welding that galvanize. It's a killer.
Cap both ends using a schrader valve compress to 100-120psi 😎
Though hot sand makes bending PVC ever so easy
Just now coming across your version of this! Nice! 😀
Thanks Patrick. I'm loving what you're doing as well 👍
Thanks for the professional doing the introduction. Just like my 3 girls!
You can never have enough scrap the limit is the room you have to store it. When you are making things that little bit of tin can make or break the job. It is all about bending the scrap in to something usable. My Uncle who is a fitter machinist always said the valuable metal is in there. Stay within specs it is valuable. Cut out he spec and it is in the bin. Good to see your work. I might be able to tig braze but I would just whip out the oxy and silver solder. You are a master mate.
A goodly introduction - well done that girl.
Fill the pipe with water, crimp end then the other a few inches in as an initial seal, fill the resulting cup at the end with hot glue
Then crimp that cooled section as final seal, water can't compress and so the pipe will hold its shape
Works like a dream and heaps easier than sand or pipe benders
Nice build fellow metalworker. Awesome comments and adorable lil gal to kick it off.👍
you are a field engineer - not many people rise above thier colledge education and achieve the accredation of innovator ! you are well tooled and know how to use it all. please continue to show us innovations that can free us fro the continued destruction of the world that god sooo much loved .
a tip i had learned about keeping copper tube round while bending it is to fill the tube with water and freeze it. the ice inside will support the shape but still be able to fracture to allow you to bend it.
So where did you find a 10' freezer to put it in?
@@armandhammer9617 they usually come coiled up in a box if you buy them from the big box hardware store. It is usually 30cm/1ft in diameter so it should fit in most freezers. If you live up north in Canada or the northern states, the 10ft freezer is outside for 5-6 months of the year
I wanted to make a heater out of a beer keg. And yours gave me some good ideals like building the rocket stove through the middle of the keg. Great job 👍🏻👍🏻
You can weld copper very easily with dc and a good preheat. Sweat fittings like those don't even need filler. If you blow a hole, fill it with electrical wire.
I admire your attitude.
Thanks for this video.
I never imagined the complexity and science behind what, at first, looked like just a clever idea.
Thanks also to all the responders. I learn a lot from the comments (both positive and otherwise)
All the Best for 2019 to you all.
Regards from S Africa
Clive
I made a hot-tub in a sandstone formation on my property - a big natural tub formation - and the entire thing ran on a thermal-siphon - no pump - took a full day of burning. Wish I had've been into rocket stoves back then.
Keep up the good work on water heating. The more you experiment the better the efficiency of water boiling. Because water is so vital for cooking. I use lots litres of boiling water to cook. Not to mention the sterilisation factor when camping.
Excellent work
Nice job that's what we needed growing up 10 people in one house hot water was too long to get
Your daughter is adorable.
Love that your kids participate. Great vids thank you so much!
Airlocks will form based off the design but you can combat that with a constant flow of water using a little pump on the intake side so it doesn’t get hot. The pump doesn’t have to be crazy just enough to move the water around. I’ve put some time into learning about projects like this as I live in Canada where electricity is expensive and it gets very cold so wood is the best option as wood is basically free
Great job! You could use an automotive heater hose and metal conectors to keep the flexibility.
That's got to be the biggest coffee maker I've ever seen!
I liked as soon as your daughter mentioned it. She’s adorbs 😍
Here in Japan we have this kind of rewarming bathtub, using natural gas of course, but the outlet is always about 15cm below the top of the water level, and in fact the tubs have a warning label on them saying that you must keep a good level of water above the outlet to use the reheating function. Also they do not recommend being in the tub when reheating the water.
I have a TIG welder but I've got next to no time on it, I need to learn how to TIG weld, I do MIG and stick, but the TIG for many things looks oh so very useful.
Your rocket stove looks great, well done!
Subbed.
Cheers from Tokyo!
right on Bob.. for me what
works is to imagine a marble starting at the top and rolling all the way to the
bottom and the bottom is the pipe inlet. If a marble can’t roll then water flow
is resisted or even stopped so that you need to rely upon the difference
between the temperature and water pressure to move the water and there to be a
vacuum to pull it just like the flew of the rocket stove bench heaters rely on
draw or vacuum pressure difference. But if a marble can role easily all the way
to the inlet then water will gladly do the same. Also, the steam indicates the
fire may be too hot given your setup or just right to create a mini steam
engine to circulate but I think keeping sufficient water flowing so that it
never stops long enough to turn into steam is far more efficient use of energy.
If I may suggest.... I learned
gas welding on aluminum boats in three days and I am not in any way
knowledgeable in it but I learned a few very important things when watching the
best welder in the shop which changed my game entirely... try holding the
supply rod like chop stick between the thumb and base of the first finger,
keeping your hand relatively flat feed the wire between the first two fingers
around the tip bend. now slide the two fingers down the rod towards the thumb
crease holding the wire, then squeeze the two fingers, release the pressure on
the thumb and feed the wire with your two fingers. You will be able to be more
like a wire feed for longer runs and smoother delivery... give it a shot,,, I
think it is a secret no one is supposed to tell because no one taught it to me
and few do it this way... but it really works.. all the best and thanks for
sharing.
Thanks mate, I appreciate you sharing the tip. Will give it a go!
For self feeding of the wood, feed it through the top and put a damper on the bottom where you are putting the wood in. Leave the door closing the bottom with the damper so you can open it and clean out what dodnt go out the chimney.
Ok, you got me! That little girl is so smart and adorable!
No part of the OUTLET pipe should dip dow,n if they do, airlocks from. You should take the outlet pipe off, and bend it up and always be rising towards the top of the storage tank, pool whatever.
GREAT video and I agree with the "steam lock issue" the outlet from the stove should be at the top of the coil. FYI if you place the hot water outlet about mid way in the tank with a 45 of better angle to create a circular motion in the water you will greatly increase efficiency and reduce the time and fuel needed as it will mix and create a thermal vortex in the unit. This from a old Chief Machinist Mate USN. Again GREAT video.
Double agree. The steam buildup actually slows down the process. The outlet should be a couple inches above in the inlet all times. Especially near the heat source. The water flow will greatly increase in speed by doing this too. Also, the outlet (or rather the inlet into the water reservoir, pool, hottub, etc) should be below the water level, a few inches would be fine.
I agree. And it would properly also make the stove more efficient if you ad a core pipe that force the gas flow to follow the pipe. The pipe kinda promotes a dead boundary layer along the pipe wall and most of the flow is properly in the center where no water is heated.
You could add a second central coil in parallel with the one you got, but it's a tight bend and some interesting welding.
@@Zigge - But that would reduce the cross section of the riser and impede overall airflow decreasing burn efficiency and most likely cause smoking and creosote.
You could probably put a baffle all the way up to stop the vortex. That would let the heat rise straight up evenly instead of swirling to the middle. That would probably also decrease burn efficiency, but not as much.
I think the best bet would be to put a second water pipe straight up the middle. That wouldn't reduce the cross section very much but it would be in the very hottest section of the exhaust so it would heat the water very fast even though it isn't in the stove for very long.
Also you don't want to take *too much* heat out of the exhaust or you will defeat the thermal siphon (convection) that drives the rocket stove effect.
@@GordieGii For a non-condensing burner like this, the ideal smoke temperature is in the region of 150C and anything above that is wasted fuel. If the reduced burn rate is creating problems with burn efficiency, the problem is in the burn chamber and not it the heat-exchanger part where the water pipe is located. Insulating and thereby raising the burn temperature should help on that and the overall efficiency.
Your daughter looks just like you! God Bless Your Family!🙂
some one tips:
if you want hot water with less time, instal a pipe in the outlet of water inside teh tank, causing the water to be heated to enter a higher temperature. (suction pipe at the middle the tank). Less water for heating, less time to do.
If you need more hot water but do not be in such a hurry, you can put the inlet and outlet the water of the tank about 10 cm from each other on the bottom of the tank.
In this case, basically, what changes is just the hot water intake going down. So, the water that is already warm will rise and on the way, tranfer the heat to the water of the tank.
I like your videos..
from Brazil...
I don't have materials to do this job,can U make me one to pay for it?Am a pensioner in Ghana
You made A lot more work for yourself by not just soldering your pipe connections. Your welds would have looked A lot nicer and waterproof. You really doubled the time it should have took, nice job 😎
Good job, Great intro by your little lady.
y not just solder or braze ?
Your hand workmanship is very impressive. Especially to me when you cranked out curves that then closely matched those of your very-round pipes. Well done!
That 3rd hand is also a hoot.
Have a look at how they configured the boilers in steam locomotives, you'll find better heating efficiency using parallel pipes as heat conduit running through a small water tank.
Also your storage tank may be more efficient if you draw the heated water from the top back into your boiler, alowing reheated water ( from the top of your boiler) to preheat the bottom of the storage tank as it flows back in.
yes Matthew, i think like you.
But would the weight of the water slow/ stop the water flow? I think water has 1/2 lb of force per ft... I think.
If its true were into a solar minimum/mini ICE AGE again then great timing on teaching us HOW we can heat water when the grid goes permanently down! Thank you
Saudações do Brasil!
Seu projeto é fantástico!
Parabéns!
I was searching for a way to bend copper pipe into coils because I was interested in turning my woodstove in my home into a hot water heater for my pre-existing radiator system that I no longer use because of the price of natural gas/propane.
I'm really glad that I stumbled upon your video because I got two for one!
The copper pipe bending, and the stove that you made!
My wood stove is cast-iron and much larger. I was thinking of doing a much simpler retrofit by installing the copper tubing coils around the outside of the existing steel chimney/flue pipe and then connecting it into the pre-existing radiator system.
I have a pre-existing furnace/boiler designed to use natural gas/propane to heat water and then pump it to the radiators to heat the house.
I lose a lot of heat out of the chimney, and I am thinking of wrapping the flue in copper water pipe and redirecting that into the boiler system, and simply disconnecting the natural gas furnace then using the pump in it to then pump the hot water from my woodstove to the radiators.
Essentially all I would be adding is the copper coils wrapped around the pre-existing flue, and then tying it into the pre-existing boiler. To make things even easier the boiler is directly below the woodstove in the basement.
I burn firewood all winter and it's much more cost-effective than propane.
However, I have many rooms that are not heated that I don't use during the winter time or just suffer the colder temps in them. But every single room has a radiator in it.
I'm hoping I can do this simple retrofit to reclaim some of the lost heat and make some parts the house a little bit more tolerable.
I have a question about the silicon bronze braising for us is just soldering the pipes.
I know in your application that you have your coils inside the flu and therefore it must get quite hot.
My steel flue has about a 4 foot long exposed section that I want to wrap in copper pipe before it takes a 90° turn and goes back into the old brick chimney.
It runs in the 300 to 400°F range. Sometimes it gets up to 500° F.
I know that the copper pipe & the water in it will act as a heat sink, so therefore it won't necessarily get as hot as the flue itself.
Do you think TIG brazing is absolutely necessary?
Will a high temperature solder work?
I know how to sweat pipes but I do not know how to TIG braze.
I was thinking about leaving the End of the coils quite long after the last bend in the coils so that there's no soldered or brazed joints near the primary heat source.
The next worry would be that it would then have to turn 90° and go down several feet into the basement to hook up to the furnace. I'm guessing as long as the pump is running, this won't be an issue.
The pump will keep the water moving and circulating. Thoughts?
Thanks for the great content! I thoroughly enjoyed your videos!
Tig brazing isn't necessary, It's just what I happen to have on hand at the time and I wanted to just try that and see how it would work. I think if you sweat them together with silver solder you'd be just fine.
Nice to see you again mate! I enjoy watching you weld, something I don’t do well yet but I’m determined to build an outdoor tub heated by a rocket stove. Your videos give me confidence to try my hand at stick welding. Cheers, wish me luck!
Ha!! Love the clamp!!! I got weights, just like those, rolling around the yard. I used another flat, light weight as the lid for a rocket stove that I built to heat my greenhouse:-D
really interesting watching the metal work and planning. i recently finished building a sailboat and a lot of your tool usage is parallel to what i did. the worst thing about handbuilding an epoxy and foam sailboat is the metal fittings. i have a swivel mast and trimaran folding apparatus. most of the metal is aluminum and i had it fabricated by a friend in a nearby town. i got to watch him enough to see the process. a lot of the metal parts i had made i think could be done with carbon fiber or some combination of metal and cf. i will try to watch more as i think your knowledge will come in handy! also the planning of parts is intriguing. i'm working on a second smaller boat using all my own planning and its quite like watching you scramble putting together the stove. cudos. another thing is i think a few courses in metal shop might be appropriate for me. i have a masters in ceramics and have worked a lot with gas and copper and with stainless bending in sculpture. art isn't all a lark is it? sometimes you learn some very practical things in art school. the best larger bead i ever saw laid was by a girl who had a jewelry background. it was beautiful. and so was she. thank goodness for art school!
Amazin Bit of kit for hot baths in the country,
Using dead fall is essentially carbon zero.
great job and welding OH i wish i could weld like you,
had a Carmichael stove for years on the farm with a wet back, the header tank was on the roof same sysytem ,no pumps for those that reccomned a pump,the tank had a sherpards crook as a saftey should the water get to hot,and would return excess water back to the tanks,NOTE no pumps for those again who claim needed ,this stove and many like them were in their 1000s in Australia ,just a matter of keeping the header tank full where there was no power was done with a semi rotary pump ,if power then the water pressure pump took care of that
ols aussie saying you done well son
Thanks mate, to appease the pump crowd I have put a pump on the stove which circulated the water so fast that it was not able to heat it. Still working on the 2nd version of this stove, which is a very different animal to the first one. Thanks for sharing, I appreciate it.
@@LittleAussieRockets use a car radiator thermostat that also controls the pump. When the waters at temperature it opens, turns on the pump and let's water flow. It also has an inbuilt safety mechanism in that it won't close when it's too hot. You could also put a pressure release valve for safety.
Bit late with the comment but if the copper tube is oval, grab a adjustable spanner. Set the opening just a bit smaller than the widest part and slowly turn. The tube will deform a little bit proceed until loose, tighten up a little, turn until the tube is back to nominal size
After you bend the copper pipe, use an adjustable wrench to true it back to a circle. Set it to the right diameter and run it around a few times.
Top of the coil is full of air. The coil outlet bending down is no help on a thermodynamic system.
I'm new to your Channel and I enjoyed your video very much. You're quite a Fabricator and a TIG Welder.
The design that you created I'd say it's right up there with the Inventor Nikolai Tesla.
You can use an close circuit for better heat and stoves circles(Another coil of copper on the tank, expansion tank required, and glycol liquid). Also insulation helps (hot)... Good job🎉
Fully agree with most of the comments. You made a mistake in the build, the pipe from the top of the coil should never have gone down to the bottom before heading off to the tank. Unfortunately this will burn out early, because the tubes are boiling dry then chilling, and I can tell you now that will kill copper
Thanks mate, revisiting this build soon to put into practice so many of these great ideas you guys have suggested. Cheers
To make the copper tube round again just use a tubing swager. You can buy these in most any size or even make one on your lathe or even drill press. Its basically just a tapered and highly polished punch type mandrel. Make friends with a commercial HVAC tech. He can probably loan you one.
Thanks David 👍
Good job.
Two things I would enter are a statement and a question.
First years ago I was taught to use sand to bend heavy wall drawn boiler tube by capping one end,packing sand and then capping the fill end after that. Then clamp to a sturdy table,beam or column and heat with a rosebud while more people pull in the direction of the desired bend using a cheater pipe of a larger diameter. We only bent tubes in field construction on rare emergency situations. Only when a major shop could not get the bend tubes made in time. Mega Watt output vs boilermaker wages and you win. I had no concept of really how much things cost but when the demand for steam is there money is no object to get a boiler fixed. You did well using sand I heard ice does well if you do not use heat to make bends but I have no experience with ice as we used a lot of heat.
Thanks mate, I love hearing these experiences that you guys have been sharing. It's great to hear from the guys who have been there and done that and not just the keyboard warriors. I'm going to do a video soon where I try ice, salt and nylon greased rope to bend the copper pipe.
Think of the water flow as a circle. The heating system is on one side, halfway up, and the HEATED is on the other side. When i was a child, a coal fired stove was our only form of hot water supply, then, later on, i had a house the had an open fire, and the grate was made out of schedule 40 steam tube. It was very carefully constructed and installed to meet the requirements as i described in my prior comment. I hope the constructor of this video, takes our comments in good part.
We are revisiting this build to put into practice the helpful suggestions you guys have given, much appreciated with your input!
Add a swing check valve to the inlet side and cut your heating time in half
I have seen them bend pipe like that using water and freezing it. It also works like the sand, maybe a little better because the ice is harder. I have always loved rocket stoves, cool build.
I use salt to fill the copper tubing. Also why not wrap copper around the rocket stove. Then add a sleeve over the tubing. No direct flame.
because the tar/oil ends up condensing on the cold water pipe??
Excellent idea.
Why salt? Finer grit to bend, or easier clean out due to dissolving?
drmachinewerke1, That would work fine but filling the space with sand would conduct heat better between the inner wall and the copper pipe.
These are the ideas that I am looking at, right on my level, had to read a lot of comments to get here 😅
I think your top inlet to the drum should be much lower and your barrel mounted much higher than your heater. I have used a coil right in a fire to a bucket mounted on a tripod that was at about 1/2 a meter off the ground. I learned about this when I was a Scout leader at a camp involving Canadian and US Scouts. It is nice to have hot water to wash dishes when you are camping! Great job you have done on the heater! Certainly works well, I'm impressed!! Thank you for sharing.
Good old direct boiler tank. A normal tank is indirect type.
And yes it did rubble from time to time when the back boiler behind my old fire place ran really hot.
That why you had a top mounted overflow pipe for the bubbled up to and over in strong cases back to the cold water feeder tank
Well there you go, thanks mate!
Awesome job mate...BUT...
You made the mistake of not having the copper coil outlet on an even upward grade towards the tub. That's why your having bursts of steam coming out of the pipe at the tub.
Simple modification and its sorted.
This why we work hard for our Children!
Praise GOD
With having to cut the copper pipe.. leave the leg being passed through straight up and then cut the pipe when pipe has been fitted and finish off the bend so it coils just as you want it..
If your no plumber and carpenter does that make you a fabricator ? Why yes yes it does and a good one at that. Great job Sir !
Your outlet is reversing flow after the gout of steam. A clear section of pipe would show flow direction. If the outlet came right off the top you might not get a build upon steam on top of the coil.
First time in a long time that I've run across anyone with some decent buffer music. Video good too.
It would have been vastly easier to solder the thing and the comments on the hot out are correct The steam blowout is the proof of the need to have the hot out flow without boiling. quit lieing to yourself and raise the hot out line. Also use some hot water rated hose or pipe. Very attractive job on the steel! well done. With time the constrained copper will be problematic. just use a standoff.
Pretty impressive for such a small device and a few twigs.
Put the out let from stove to th bottom of the tank see the difference.
3:20ish. That exhaust in the background is beautiful.
Best entro ever! never watched your channel before, WILL STAY NOW TO CHECK YOU OUT
AWESOME JOB BY YOUR DAUGHTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!! : )
PLEASE TELL HER SHE DID A GREAT JOB.... AND SHE SHOULD DO A LOT MORE... AND SUBJECTS OF HER OWN!!!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
I did something similar with the pipe on my wood stove but I used smaller diameter copper that was already coiled and made a tighter fit when bending around the pipe. Then I covered it with tin to help enclose the heating copper. Also it keeps the flow rate lower so the water has a better chance to get hotter.
For smaller copper pipe and tubing, where it might be hard to get sand out of, you can use salt or sugar, which can be dissolved out. I made a simple distillation coil with 1/4in copper tubing a while back, and I used salt to prevent it from collapsing when making the coil.
Salt /sugar can pack up really tight in there and it's a PITA to get out again.
For a little 1/4" pipe there is no need to fill it. Just work it slowly around the mandrel you've made and it will work out fine.
Trust me...I made several copper coils for my still. ;)
Er, a thermo syphon system has to have the hot outlet pipe rising , vertically is best, at least at an angle, heat won't naturally travel downwards . The hot water tank has to be above the level of the boiler. The bursts of steam are the system fighting against itself. Your system requires a circulation pump.
Straight up within 3-5" of the boiler will stop the stem spurts for sure. Use Hot water plumbing plastic pipe or copper.
Yes his use of a down pipe creates the problem IMO. I wonder if the 90 at the top was removed or rerouted to up or level if the bursts would minimize? @@roberthodge2771
It will work just fine if he just remove that tube going downwards on the coil outlet.
Rufus Chucklebutty m
Agreed! Small Circulation pump is necessary to avoid air lock! If the water boils(and it will outside of a closed system) the pump will propel the hot water forward.
You need a thousand thumbs up per view from that great introduction
thanks mate!