I wanted to say thank you for the tutorials, I was able to swap front speakers, rear speakers, and add a powered subwoofer, as well as sound dampen all 4 doors of my 23' F150 Hybrid because of all of your video tutorials. All of this done solo, in 1/2 a day. Without your videos I would have made a lot of mistakes, and many trips to get wiring material and tools. You saved me much time and trouble. Amazing!
Just want you to know you've been a great help to our Subaru install. Your video is down to earth and show regular joes how to install normal equipment to get better sound instead of crazy priced install like fancy wood working, 3D printing, CNC, welding and all the fancy stuffs we'll never venture into.
Awesome install! I love how cleanly this was done without sacrificing any functionality or sound quality. Well worth the investment if you want to take your truck's audio game to the next level. 👍🎶 #fordampinstall #subwoofersystem #fordf150 #aftermarketaudio
Hi what if you don't install the AudioControl LC2iPro, can you just take the signal from any +- speaker wire close to the 20 pins terminal just before the B&O amplifier? would set my amplifier to go "ON" with the signal
My 22 - i cut that nipple off the grommet, but there was another piece of rubber behind it, i couldnt get thru that no matter what. I ended up going in thru the back of the cab, theres a vent there (at least on a regular cab). Much easier than that grommet.
Same here, I cut the grommet like in the video, but could not get pass into the other side. Didn't want to force anything in fear of damaging something
Have a 2019 Ford Edge w/ B&O system want the same set up, add a Subwoofer in a Sealed Box, nothing too crazy. Maybe a 12 inch subwoofer. I need as much space I could have in the back as I use it for stuff when traveling. That 8 inch Factory Sub just doesn't cut it for me too. Is it ok if you do the install including parts? Bec. you do clean work or install. 🏅
I have the same factory setup in my 21 Lariat. If I want to amplify the entire truck with a sub using a 5 channel amp like you did in the other video do I still need the t-adapter to grab the factory speakers behind the radio or are they also available by the factory amp?
If you have a B&O system, the a-pillar tweeters still feed off the deck. The PACPro comes with a T-harness for behind the radio to run new wires to your speaker XO which would be by the rest of the outs at the factory amp location. Some people just leave them though and just use a mid bass in the front door or a coax. I personally just run the wires from the HU to the back.
Great video on the front speaker replacement too... I wondered on a similar install with a kicker self-amplified system if you could tap into the front 6x9 speaker wires from the oem amp for signal and if it would degrade the sound from the 6x9s? That way it would bypass the b&o subwoofer attenuation at higher volumes.
Trying to get an estimated price for a setup like this.....Haven't heard back from our local stores in the Austin Texas area but very few folks do car audio around here for some reason.
Did you have to cut something else other than the grommet through the firewall? Mine seemed to have another grommet on the inside. no way to get through as in your video?
This!!! I am trying to install this thing right now and I am having the same issue! I can't even see that grommet from inside the cab. Did you get it figured out?
Hi, thank you for share your videos, are very very informative!!!! I have question and I hope you can help me to address, what happens if you remove the factory subwoofer and use that input to connect the LC2i pro?
That works too. No load needed on the factory sub channel of the Sony / B&O amp to perform properly. you can simply direct the OEM sub output into your LC2i.
@@ProvoBeastAudio if you are swapping out the factory sub and amp and using the same signal from the factory head unit, do you need the LC2i? I'm looking to replace the factory B&O sub and amp for a B&O equipped '21 Expedition.
Great video but I have a base model factory system that I added a sub and amp to. I didn’t do the install but I’m doing the tuning. So my truck doesn’t have a factor amp and the deck is factory. Should I set my Input voltage to hi or low? Thanks, I’ve been checking around but I don’t understand the language you’ll speak haha
Before you set the accubass I was going to use a multimeter to set a baseline gain on my amp. But how do you deal with that with the factory rolloff when using a 40hz testtone at 3/4 volume?
Hello, sorry, I saw your video and I want to ask you a question. I want to change all the factory speakers that come with my 2018 Ford F150 Lariat, but without altering anything, just replace them and make it sound much better. that you would remember me, thank you, I await your response.
Can I use just a standard/basic line out converter to the factory sub wires and it work the same way, rather than using the LC2i? I’m going to be installing a JL 12” powerwedge with the built in amp. Great videos btw!!!!! Thank you!!!
When wiring the audio controllers power and ground to the amp is it possible it will cause a short and burn out my fuse if the wiring isn’t properly shielded/insulated? I have my setup similarly installed just shotty wiring by me and I think this is my issue any help would be awesome!
Love the video. I’m doing a skar amp and I’m wanting to use the Hi input and tap into the left rear and right rear door speakers but I can’t find a 8 speaker B&O speaker wire color for the amp. I have a 2023 f150. Any way you could link a speaker wire color diagram?
Why would you tap into the door speaker instead of the sub when adding a bass amp? the B&O amplifier has passive crossovers and will mess with your signal.
I’m not too sure. I have a skar amp and the hi input is what I used on my 2011 f150 and I used the right and left door speakers positive and negative instead of the low input and I’m doing the same exact setup on my 2023 f150 and it worked great on my 2011
Thanks for the video, great stuff.I have a question about my current build. I have AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter, 2 after market amps(4ch amp and 2 ch amp(for subs) connecting to a factory Ford radio(i have no choice of using an after-market radio). I'm running 125watt rms to the doors(4ch) so I will use after market speaker cable, not factory internal speaker wire. So with this, im thinking these speaker wires will connect from 4ch amp to the door speakers, which makes sense but my question is where does the 2 sub speaker wire connect from the LC7i to the harness(im using PAC LPHFD31 harness) as the harness will only have the 4 pairs, not 6 which I would need? Any help/advice is welcomed as Ive only done audio systems with aftermarket radios, not factory radios(used to not be an issue until the newer cars and their fancy radios).
The LC7i has a internal jumper that you can have it pull audio from other channels. Just use the instructions found with the Audiocontrol packaging and it shows you how to provide signal to your sub channel output.
I'm hoping you can help me out. I just installed a Kicker CXA800.1 in my 2022 Ford Lightning with the 8 speaker B&O system. The amp has a high level input, so i didn't need the line level converter. Here's where I'm having trouble - the factory amp turns the power down after jamming for about 10 seconds. For that first 10 seconds or so - my system sounds amazing. After, it's much quieter. How do I get around this?
@ah4800 that's what I keep reading on the internet. I've driven nothing but Silverados for the past 20 years. This is by a wide margin my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. It's silent inside, has a ton of cool tech, is fast AF and costs roughly 1/3 what my gas trucks did to operate.
I would like to improve the B&O audio system of my F150 2023 PB hybrid truck, I live in Peru and they don't want to touch anything here, I read that everything is about trucks that are not hybrids
Hello I really like your video I recently bought an amp and sub combo from skar. I have the original O&B system in my 2019 raptor. Any tips how to install this
Hi . I’m just about done my install but on my 19 f350 lariat the plug into the sub has 4 wires (purple , yellow , green, grey ). Is there anyone that know which two I tap into ?
So if I’m replacing the b&o sub in a 2018 f150, I can do something similar to this with a single tw3, rd500/1 with the lci2? Do I also need the AP4-FD31?
If you are just adding an amp and sub, you can simply use our technique without the need of the Pac AP4-FD31. That Pac LOC is only needed if you are going to completely bypass the B&O amplifier.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I have a setup where my rca cables are tapped into the speaker wire with a $20 part. They flash in and out of protect and I can’t figure out why. I was just wondering if the LC2 would help with that?
They are technically full range, but have a significant bass rolloff. you can use the rear door speakers for signal, but you'll want a line out converter that will restore that rolloff at higher sound levels. an LC2i pro (like we used) is a great choice.
Question, you have videos on how to bypass parking brake on Alpine and Pioneer radios, would it be similar for a JVC radio? If not I’d love a video on that
We are tapping into a higher power output (to the OEM Sub), and basic LOCs generally cannot handle that type of input voltage. You "may" be able to get away with the LP7-2 fine, but there also is no rolloff/ signal correction. Pros and cons from each method.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I want to keep the factory radio and add an amp to power 4 Alpine R2 (100RMS Each) and a subwoofer. Not sure what wiring harness to use to connect the Amp to factory radio. Again mine is 6 speaker system (2023 f150 lightning xlt) with no amp. I already watched your speaker replacement videos a 100 times :) and tried different speakers with the factory radio (JL C2, Powerbass for Ford, Alpine R2) after adding sound deadening. None of the speakers gave me good results with the factory radio. So decided on keeping the Alpine R2 speakers and add an Amp and Sub. Any guidance will be highly appreciated.
The issue with doing it this way is that when you increase the volume on the sound system, the factory sub is substantially dummed down volume wise. This in turn turns down the volume to your expensive new sound system does any one know of a way to tap the audio directly to avoid this?
That's actually remedied with the accubass feature on the lc2ipro. This feature allows you to restore your bass on factory systems that don't increase, or roll off the bass, as volume increases
@JoseGonzalez-os6xo I was able to do this much easier and cheaper with the kicker loc I just tapped into the front speaker feeds from the b&o unleashed amp as those outputs do not roll off. Tons of bass all the way up now. The i2c can only compensate for the roll off soo much when you tie into the sub output.
Parts used linked in the description of the video!
I have a 2022 lariat.. you never unplug or cut into wires from factory amp
I have a 21 Powerboost (sync 4 lariat FX4 w/B&O), and I’m local to you- how do we get a hold of you for installs?
I have a 2022Ford F150 Lightning Lariat. Will this work with my truck and is it considerably better?
I wanted to say thank you for the tutorials, I was able to swap front speakers, rear speakers, and add a powered subwoofer, as well as sound dampen all 4 doors of my 23' F150 Hybrid because of all of your video tutorials. All of this done solo, in 1/2 a day. Without your videos I would have made a lot of mistakes, and many trips to get wiring material and tools. You saved me much time and trouble. Amazing!
Just want you to know you've been a great help to our Subaru install. Your video is down to earth and show regular joes how to install normal equipment to get better sound instead of crazy priced install like fancy wood working, 3D printing, CNC, welding and all the fancy stuffs we'll never venture into.
Hey thanks, sure happy to help and appreciate the feedback!
Hands down the best description I’ve seen in a long time! Great work! Can’t wait to get started on my Pickup!!
Kinda slick that the OE sub was running infinite baffle. Shame they won’t catch on to the whole “there’s no replacement for displacement.”
I'm looking to do this to my 2019 Expedition limited with the B&O system hopefully this video is what i was looking for!
Awesome install! I love how cleanly this was done without sacrificing any functionality or sound quality. Well worth the investment if you want to take your truck's audio game to the next level. 👍🎶 #fordampinstall #subwoofersystem #fordf150 #aftermarketaudio
Clean install as always. I’m a fan from the Philippines. 😁
Hi what if you don't install the AudioControl LC2iPro, can you just take the signal from any +- speaker wire close to the 20 pins terminal just before the B&O amplifier? would set my amplifier to go "ON" with the signal
Nice,Very thorough
My 22 - i cut that nipple off the grommet, but there was another piece of rubber behind it, i couldnt get thru that no matter what. I ended up going in thru the back of the cab, theres a vent there (at least on a regular cab). Much easier than that grommet.
Same here, I cut the grommet like in the video, but could not get pass into the other side. Didn't want to force anything in fear of damaging something
Have a 2019 Ford Edge w/ B&O system want the same set up, add a Subwoofer in a Sealed Box, nothing too crazy. Maybe a 12 inch subwoofer. I need as much space I could have in the back as I use it for stuff when traveling.
That 8 inch Factory Sub just doesn't cut it for me too.
Is it ok if you do the install including parts? Bec. you do clean work or install.
🏅
Dang bro, you are the goat 🐐
I have the same factory setup in my 21 Lariat. If I want to amplify the entire truck with a sub using a 5 channel amp like you did in the other video do I still need the t-adapter to grab the factory speakers behind the radio or are they also available by the factory amp?
If you have a B&O system, the a-pillar tweeters still feed off the deck. The PACPro comes with a T-harness for behind the radio to run new wires to your speaker XO which would be by the rest of the outs at the factory amp location. Some people just leave them though and just use a mid bass in the front door or a coax. I personally just run the wires from the HU to the back.
Great video on the front speaker replacement too... I wondered on a similar install with a kicker self-amplified system if you could tap into the front 6x9 speaker wires from the oem amp for signal and if it would degrade the sound from the 6x9s? That way it would bypass the b&o subwoofer attenuation at higher volumes.
Trying to get an estimated price for a setup like this.....Haven't heard back from our local stores in the Austin Texas area but very few folks do car audio around here for some reason.
Did you have to cut something else other than the grommet through the firewall? Mine seemed to have another grommet on the inside. no way to get through as in your video?
This!!! I am trying to install this thing right now and I am having the same issue! I can't even see that grommet from inside the cab. Did you get it figured out?
I noticed that the link you provided for the sub box is for a 12" but I prefer the two 10s - can you provide the correct link please?
I got a different one but it’s from Skar audio. They sell the box empty so you can put your own or buy one with their subwoofers in it
Hi, thank you for share your videos, are very very informative!!!! I have question and I hope you can help me to address,
what happens if you remove the factory subwoofer and use that input to connect the LC2i pro?
That works too. No load needed on the factory sub channel of the Sony / B&O amp to perform properly. you can simply direct the OEM sub output into your LC2i.
@ProvoBeastAudio Thank you, I will do that soon, appreciate it your videos!!!! 👍
@@ProvoBeastAudio if you are swapping out the factory sub and amp and using the same signal from the factory head unit, do you need the LC2i? I'm looking to replace the factory B&O sub and amp for a B&O equipped '21 Expedition.
Great video but I have a base model factory system that I added a sub and amp to.
I didn’t do the install but I’m doing the tuning. So my truck doesn’t have a factor amp and the deck is factory.
Should I set my Input voltage to hi or low?
Thanks,
I’ve been checking around but I don’t understand the language you’ll speak haha
Before you set the accubass I was going to use a multimeter to set a baseline gain on my amp. But how do you deal with that with the factory rolloff when using a 40hz testtone at 3/4 volume?
Hello, sorry, I saw your video and I want to ask you a question. I want to change all the factory speakers that come with my 2018 Ford F150 Lariat, but without altering anything, just replace them and make it sound much better. that you would remember me, thank you, I await your response.
Can I use just a standard/basic line out converter to the factory sub wires and it work the same way, rather than using the LC2i? I’m going to be installing a JL 12” powerwedge with the built in amp. Great videos btw!!!!! Thank you!!!
Believe so, I will be trying with the kicker loc line out converter
When wiring the audio controllers power and ground to the amp is it possible it will cause a short and burn out my fuse if the wiring isn’t properly shielded/insulated? I have my setup similarly installed just shotty wiring by me and I think this is my issue any help would be awesome!
Do you know what the bolt size/ thread pitch was used for the ground mount?
Which wire on the factory amp is the remote wire? Or a good place to run one to? My truck is 22 f150
I have a 2018 raptor. I found a remote (ignition power) in the passenger kick panel fuse box. Just have to test with a test light to find it.
Love the video. I’m doing a skar amp and I’m wanting to use the Hi input and tap into the left rear and right rear door speakers but I can’t find a 8 speaker B&O speaker wire color for the amp. I have a 2023 f150. Any way you could link a speaker wire color diagram?
Why would you tap into the door speaker instead of the sub when adding a bass amp? the B&O amplifier has passive crossovers and will mess with your signal.
I’m not too sure. I have a skar amp and the hi input is what I used on my 2011 f150 and I used the right and left door speakers positive and negative instead of the low input and I’m doing the same exact setup on my 2023 f150 and it worked great on my 2011
Any recommendations for 12inch subs and app combo for this fitment issue?
Thanks for the video, great stuff.I have a question about my current build. I have AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter, 2 after market amps(4ch amp and 2 ch amp(for subs) connecting to a factory Ford radio(i have no choice of using an after-market radio). I'm running 125watt rms to the doors(4ch) so I will use after market speaker cable, not factory internal speaker wire. So with this, im thinking these speaker wires will connect from 4ch amp to the door speakers, which makes sense but my question is where does the 2 sub speaker wire connect from the LC7i to the harness(im using PAC LPHFD31 harness) as the harness will only have the 4 pairs, not 6 which I would need? Any help/advice is welcomed as Ive only done audio systems with aftermarket radios, not factory radios(used to not be an issue until the newer cars and their fancy radios).
The LC7i has a internal jumper that you can have it pull audio from other channels. Just use the instructions found with the Audiocontrol packaging and it shows you how to provide signal to your sub channel output.
Could you please make a video on how you tuned the amplifier and the output converter?
Thanks!
We set our gains with an SMD-DD1 (we have a vide on the channel for that). Bass rolloff correction was done by the customer to their preference.
Thank you for the video. Where did you connect the Remote Blue wire from the LC2?
We didn't do an input on the LC2i (as the LC2i is going to generate it for us). The remote output of the LC2i goes to the amp's remote intput.
Thank you@@ProvoBeastAudio
What size positive and negative wire going to the LC2I?
Just one question where did you hook the remote blue wire?
I'm hoping you can help me out. I just installed a Kicker CXA800.1 in my 2022 Ford Lightning with the 8 speaker B&O system. The amp has a high level input, so i didn't need the line level converter.
Here's where I'm having trouble - the factory amp turns the power down after jamming for about 10 seconds. For that first 10 seconds or so - my system sounds amazing. After, it's much quieter. How do I get around this?
Aren't those lightnings supposed to be garbage?
@ah4800 that's what I keep reading on the internet. I've driven nothing but Silverados for the past 20 years. This is by a wide margin my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. It's silent inside, has a ton of cool tech, is fast AF and costs roughly 1/3 what my gas trucks did to operate.
did you ever find a solution because im having the same issue!
I would like to improve the B&O audio system of my F150 2023 PB hybrid truck, I live in Peru and they don't want to touch anything here, I read that everything is about trucks that are not hybrids
Hello I really like your video I recently bought an amp and sub combo from skar. I have the original O&B system in my 2019 raptor. Any tips how to install this
did you figure it out? i have a 2018 limited is it the same way as he does it?
Would this tutorial be applicable for the 2019 f150 B&O system?
@ProvoBeastAudio I want to follow this set up. what wires do I connect to in my 2019 F150 B&O sub.
Hi . I’m just about done my install but on my 19 f350 lariat the plug into the sub has 4 wires (purple , yellow , green, grey ). Is there anyone that know which two I tap into ?
Coil 1 Violet +
Coil 1 Yellow -
Coil 2 Green / Violet +
Coil 2 Gray -
You're welcome :)
@@ProvoBeastAudio thank you so much .
So if I’m replacing the b&o sub in a 2018 f150, I can do something similar to this with a single tw3, rd500/1 with the lci2? Do I also need the AP4-FD31?
If you are just adding an amp and sub, you can simply use our technique without the need of the Pac AP4-FD31. That Pac LOC is only needed if you are going to completely bypass the B&O amplifier.
@@ProvoBeastAudio ok thank you, I’m going in stages so diet will just be amp and sub, in a year I’ll probably do the rest, thank you for the info
Would this be the same for a 2015 f150 platinum?
Would the LC2 help with the fact that it is not being powered by rcas?
I'm not sure I understand your question
@@ProvoBeastAudio I have a setup where my rca cables are tapped into the speaker wire with a $20 part. They flash in and out of protect and I can’t figure out why. I was just wondering if the LC2 would help with that?
Using the sub wire for input don't you still get the factory bass roll off that the B&O is hated for?
Apparently that line output converter automatically does away with that. Look it up.
We used the AudioControl LC2i pro which corrects bass roll off.
Some say do not use signal from the rear door speakers on a non b and o f150. Can you guys verify. They say the signal is not full range.
They are technically full range, but have a significant bass rolloff. you can use the rear door speakers for signal, but you'll want a line out converter that will restore that rolloff at higher sound levels. an LC2i pro (like we used) is a great choice.
Can I do the same thing but with a more powerful amp and some kicker solo baric ? I like a lot of bass .
Sure you can.
I’m having a hard time passing the wire though the fire wall any tips
Did u ever get the wire thru the firewall?
If replacing the Factory B&O amp I only need the AP4-FD31. and not the LC2i. Correct?
You're correct
Question, you have videos on how to bypass parking brake on Alpine and Pioneer radios, would it be similar for a JVC radio? If not I’d love a video on that
JVC can simply be grounded. No need to add any bypass there (they don't require any sort of double or triple pulse negative).
@@ProvoBeastAudio Awesome thanks so much!
Why did you use the lc2i? And not the pac loc?
We are tapping into a higher power output (to the OEM Sub), and basic LOCs generally cannot handle that type of input voltage. You "may" be able to get away with the LP7-2 fine, but there also is no rolloff/ signal correction. Pros and cons from each method.
Ive heard mixed reviews. Does the lc2ipro really eliminate bass roll off ?
I have the pro version I tapped into the sub wiring and it’s still there very annoying will try tapping into the front speakers next time
@jesusjuarez8843 I ended up going with the kit from sounds good stereo. Only one that actually fixes it and it's plug and play.
@@ss55539 happen to have the link.?
@@ss55539 I found it . Did you notice a huge difference.?
How the heck did u get that hanger thru the grommet? I tried for a few hours last night with no success. Its a 23 lariat
Did you ever get it figured out I’m trying myself right now
Yes. I ran the wire thru a hole next to the grommet. I went from engine into cab.
The same grommet or the small grommet on the right side
The small grommet to the right. I'll try and get a pic of it. When I get home
Why lci2 instead of lci1?
How did you tune it?
Can you make a Video for F150 Lightning XLT with 6 speaker system when you get a chance. Thanks in advance.
For an amp and sub install? Or for speaker install? We have speaker install videos for the lightning on the channel already.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I want to keep the factory radio and add an amp to power 4 Alpine R2 (100RMS Each) and a subwoofer. Not sure what wiring harness to use to connect the Amp to factory radio. Again mine is 6 speaker system (2023 f150 lightning xlt) with no amp. I already watched your speaker replacement videos a 100 times :) and tried different speakers with the factory radio (JL C2, Powerbass for Ford, Alpine R2) after adding sound deadening. None of the speakers gave me good results with the factory radio. So decided on keeping the Alpine R2 speakers and add an Amp and Sub. Any guidance will be highly appreciated.
Shoot me a message on facebook / instagram and I can help point you in the right direction.@@rakeshsanapala
💙💙💙
Could you just remove the entire factory sub for more room?
Yes but then you would have to fabricate a plate to seal off the cab since removing the sub opens up a hole in the rear wall.
The issue with doing it this way is that when you increase the volume on the sound system, the factory sub is substantially dummed down volume wise. This in turn turns down the volume to your expensive new sound system does any one know of a way to tap the audio directly to avoid this?
That's actually remedied with the accubass feature on the lc2ipro. This feature allows you to restore your bass on factory systems that don't increase, or roll off the bass, as volume increases
@JoseGonzalez-os6xo I was able to do this much easier and cheaper with the kicker loc I just tapped into the front speaker feeds from the b&o unleashed amp as those outputs do not roll off. Tons of bass all the way up now. The i2c can only compensate for the roll off soo much when you tie into the sub output.
How you did that?@@scrody33
@@scrody33 Which color wires if you don't mind sharing
I want to know how to fix this too it's so annoying just losing power half way threw the song lol
I cannot for the life of me get the coat hanger through the grommet to the inside.
Why is the right woofer grill damaged?
Better the grill than the speaker
the bass roll off with this audio system sucks 👎🏻👎🏻
Kicker's KEY is supposed to fix the bass roll off on these systems
@@asvpab It will yes, Sounds Good Stereo has it custom tuned for sale.
@henryscreations yes, I'm planning on buying their harness for my '23 F-150 with B&O Unleashed.
@8:18 “Head over to the car”.. it’s a truck..
Did you have a fuse for the power wire from amp to lc2i?
2016 platinum has the same factory set up but different sub. Would this work on it?
Yep, exact same install.