I doing the same kind of project but the range i needed was around 50m so i used NRF24l01 modules with arduino nano to make transmitter and the receiver also i used two NY2NJ 240v 10A DPDT power relays to control the hoist, once the project is complete I will post all the information.
Joe, I'm waiting on some parts to do the remote project but I got the hoist so I now know what switch I have and the colours of the cables. So I did up a schematic for myself for when I have all the parts. Looking at it might help some people understand what they are trying to do here. In probably every case with these cheap Chinese hoists there is a double pole - double throw (DPDT) switch. They are used so that a couple of the cables get connected together EVERYTIME no matter whether Up or Down is pressed. Another pair get connected only for Up and a different pair only for Down. That's why we need two relays. In both relays the same pair need to be connected EVERYTIME as above, but then in one relay a different pair get connected as well for the Up and in the 2nd relay another pair get connected as well for the Down. All this is so that the capacitor can be swapped between coils in the motor afaik. Not to worry, just look at the schematic and realise that there are 3 pairs of wires that need connecting together but you are only connecting 2 pair of wires together at a time. The relay contacts do that instead of you pushing a switch. This is all at lethal voltage so never muck around inside these things with the power on. Also the capacitor can hold a charge for a long time, even overnight so watch out for that. I think Google are deleting my comment. Build my link with some stuff in front of it. Use https as well as the www part. dropbox.dot/s/15gzw56xmyadd25/Transfer%20switch%20connections%20to%20relays.jpg?dl=0 Finally, change the dot to a . for the link to work.
Great question. Once I get it done lol. It is still hanging in the attic as it was. I need to get that done before it gets hot. Thanks for the reminder. I will order a bud box.
@Joe thank you for the video, I'm actually doing a very similar project right now and wanted to know based on the wireless transmitter you showed: 1. Do you still need to connect the motor wires to the wireless transmitter? From your wiring and description it doesn't seem so 2. Is it still possible to wire-in some manual buttons for the hoist? The wiring diagram on your transmitter doesn't show that as an option, but what I'm getting online now has this (the manual buttons) as an option. 3. Have you completed your project? How is the transmitter holding up thus far? Really appreciate this video as it cleared up a lot of questions that I had
Glad you liked it. 1) no. In fact, you can overload the controller if you aren't very careful. I just used the controller to trigger the relays. 2) I think you could wire in a manual button, but the remotes work so well, I don't see a need. The manual buttons would just trigger the relays like the transmitter does. 3) I still have the relays screwed to my header board LOL. I have a nice plastic bod to put them in, but haven't done it yet. Check out my video on the pool pump timer. It shows the same box I plan to use.
@@joefishengineer1 I didn't even check the inrush / startup current of the motor!...completely forgot about it...Thought that it would be less than 10amps! But your solution would eliminate those issues! Excellent!!! Thanks again for your response...might consider wiring in some manual buttons. BTW....I looked at the pool pump vid...gave clarity!
I just used your video to wire mine up. Worked great, but where you have the neutral, hot up, hot down wires coming from wireless remote to switches is incorrect in your video. It's on the other side of remote, next to the power supply, marked reverse/common/forward, under the M mark
Thanks for pointing that out. Can you give me a time on the video so I can figure out what is wrong? It has been a long time since I made this video. Glad it worked for you.
Thank you Joe for such an awesome video! I just set mine today and it works great with exception of the down button that is not working presently and i need to troubleshoot it. Any insight is welcome. Great thanks to RK for pointing out the correction on the outgoing wires from the wireless to the contactors. It works great. Apprectiate it again
Hi RK, When you say the connections are incorrect, and the controller is backwards, Do you mean that all the wires should be on the (Neutral / Hot) side and have the common, forward and reverse come from tht side also?
Right at the start you said there would be a link to a video on how motor reverse happens. This information would help those who do want to understand how it's done. It's not there.
Joe, Thanks for the video. I am doing the same thing, trying to make a remote hoist from a manual. I'm new at this so my question in relationship to your wiring diagram, Do I need any of the capacitors at all? I have a 110v, 20 amp wireless controller?
Is it possible to connect directly from dinamo to the forward reverse sockets which is next to the neutral and hot sockets on thw wireless module? So we don't need contactor to control up and down via manual remote control..
@@joefishengineer1 Thanks for the reply,if use a 30A wireless module controller should no worry for overload. What i'm worrying is the start capacitor. Here is the link for the 30A wireless module..Beli Wireless Motor Controller AC 220V 30A 433MHz - Remote AK1000 tokopedia.link/ZzfjZqdQVgb di toko Modules Store Rp225.000 di Tokopedia dengan Bebas Ongkir, Sekarang! I haven't tried it because i'm not sure if directly connect from dinamo to forward reverse socket, the function which is theoretically just act as trigger to the dinamo, will or will not harm the dinamo circuit system. Would appreciate if you have further suggestion..🙏🙏
The seller of this module is using it to control his mini hoist..but because of the complex wiring system,we are still discussing before connecting to the forward reverse socket. FYI
Joe, I followed your excellent instructions and ended up with a functioning wireless remote control for my Champion 440/880 hoist. But my 3 button controllers are very erratic in momentary mode. Any help you can give me is appreciated. I cannot tell what brand controller I have (Amazon). Thanks, Tom G.
Excellent. Glad the video helped. I would swap modes and see how it responds. I would consider sending it back if the controller isn't stable. One other thought. When I am lifting with mine, the load sometimes causes the cable to hit the shutoff bar. If the load shifts when it stops, the motor will restart.
@@joefishengineer1 Joe, another question. I had no success trying to change the mode to latching. I think I have a bad controller. Can you recommend another particular controller that will work and is still available for sale? Is a particular brand name better reputed/documented? Thanks again for your help, Tom G.
@@tomgebhart1185 On the one I have, you use a jumper to change the mode. Here is one I would try. I can't comment on brands as it is the only one I use. www.amazon.com/Wireless-Control-Electric-Forwards-85V-250V/dp/B07T598T52/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07T598T52&psc=1
@@joefishengineer1 Complete success. Just finished installing the controller you recommended and it works GREAT. The hoist even seems to be running smoother (might just be me though). Thanks again for getting me started and then following through to complete success. Tom G.
Hey Tom. Did you ever figure out why the erratic behavior in momentary mode? Reason I ask is I occasionally have the same problem. Some days it runs perfect Up and Down.... Other random days not so much. Something is definitely causing interference with the signal from remote transmitter to the remote receiver. Just for the heck of it, I tried it today with the receiver antenna disconnected. To my surprise, it ran Smooth all the way up and down... Only tried it a couple times so the jury is still out. I'm no electronics Genius, but if this does stay working smoothly I'll kick myself for not trying it earlier. The only thing I can think of is that with the antenna connected, the receiver is picking up interference from somewhere further away? And I'm assuming most of us have the remote close enough to the receiver, that it doesn't need the extended 400 or so foot range with the antenna connected. Thanks for any input! Edit: 10 minutes later I answered my own question.. It did Not work. I have 3 remotes. One remote was super choppy. I going to test the battery voltage on all remotes to see if there's anything out of the ordinary? Maybe Old Stale batteries were sent with the unit? Maybe I just got a Lemon Remote/Receiver combo? I wish there was a more robust remote option to purchase instead of this cheap china crap.
What do you mean? My system has a capacitor. If yours has 2, I would still wire it this same way. The contactors carry all the load so an additional capacitor should not hurt anything. The second capacitor is probably connected to one of the switch terminals so you would move it to the corresponding terminal on the contactor.
Joe White , oh, I didn’t see your capacitor in the wiring diagram. I have my 4.7A 220lb hoist hooked up without the contactors and the down motion works well but going up stops every half second I have same wireless controller in video and a partsam hoist share.icloud.com/photos/0e_4LZ87usp2wJY-2rkNVdJbQ#Englewood share.icloud.com/photos/0peEQh-07AJQlLgvpG-sRDljA#Englewood
Joe White thanks for extra help...yeah I have done that, but the side you have connected for up/down in your video is for inputs from a manual switch The output from the wireless remote are The three terminals on the other side next to L/N, labeled forward, reverse and common. When I connect it as in video to DPDT 120v contactor, the thing has a seizure and gets stuck in a loop when energized
@@grafmontgomery I only have the remote connected to the coils on the contactors and to a power wire that is plugged in. No energy goes through the remote directly to the crane. This protects the remote from overload. Do you have a stop switch? If so, try unhooking it.
I'm trying this one... Motor Wireless Remote Control Switch 110V 220V AC 10A High Power Roller Shutter Door Electric Curtain Remote Forwards Reverse, Wide Voltage 85V-250V 433MHz RF Remote Control Relay RUclips hates links these days. A-holes.
Unfortunately not. This little relay seems to have gone off the market. It is a shame because it was great. There are others out there that are very similar though. Search wireless relay remote on ebay or Amazon and you should be able to find one. I pasted a link to a 12v powered one below, but don't know if it will get stripped off. If you end up using one you like, let me know and I will update the notes www.ebay.com/itm/363702221678?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JqxDSv0NQSK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=3FRqzCVxT9q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Here is another one that someone else put in the comments. It has up/down/stop and can be powered by 110v so this is probably the way to go. The remotes aren't as sleek, but looks like the same basic unit. Check this out! a.co/d/cKq6nkP
Joe.. It doesn't work hooked to the 3 terminals as you show here. But it works fine using the other 3 on the opposite side. Also, inside the box is a jumper switch, L and S should be hooked together.
Hi, I have done the project and it lasts only for 1 day, I`m not an expert, So my hoist now causing FATAL electric problem when attached to power. even when i detached anything i added, I checked the connection and they all connected (short circuit), I disattached the controller and find out that the main motor has a short circuit. I know that i used un-suitable remote switch, with 24V relays instead of 220V .... But how can i fix the motor now?
Another thought. Take a look at the switching mechanisms and see if they are stuck. If they arched and got stuck, you may be able to break them free. Also try rotating the motor manually.
The wireless remote in your link is no longer available on Amazon. Is this the same one? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJCTJPW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1BFYDAQL5I59&psc=1 Also, your diagram in the video shows the inputs on the receiver going to the contactors. I believe that should be showing the outputs of the receiver going to the contactors.
That is not the same one, but it should work. The key is to have an output to trigger the 2 different contactors. Good catch on the output/input. The output of the remote triggers the two contacts. Here is another one to consider www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Wireless-Remote-Switch-12V-Universal-2-Channel-RF-Remote-Control-433Mh/203187241982?hash=item2f4ee743fe:g:hM4AAOSwJiBftkd1
@@joefishengineer1 I just purchased the receiver James had listed, because the ebay link is dead. I wired it up up to the contactors, but i'm not sure if it is done right. Should the contactors be making a noise when the current is passed through them, as the switch engages? The receiver makes a click but I am not hearing anything from the contactors.
@@allfauxone9951 The contactors generally make noise when the are activated. The easiest way to tell if things are working properly is to test continuity on either side of the contactor. When it is active (meaning that 120 v is applied to the activation coil), continuity will be seen between the 2 sides of the coil.
I doing the same kind of project but the range i needed was around 50m so i used NRF24l01 modules with arduino nano to make transmitter and the receiver also i used two NY2NJ 240v 10A DPDT power relays to control the hoist, once the project is complete I will post all the information.
Joe, I'm waiting on some parts to do the remote project but I got the hoist so I now know what switch I have and the colours of the cables. So I did up a schematic for myself for when I have all the parts. Looking at it might help some people understand what they are trying to do here.
In probably every case with these cheap Chinese hoists there is a double pole - double throw (DPDT) switch. They are used so that a couple of the cables get connected together EVERYTIME no matter whether Up or Down is pressed. Another pair get connected only for Up and a different pair only for Down. That's why we need two relays. In both relays the same pair need to be connected EVERYTIME as above, but then in one relay a different pair get connected as well for the Up and in the 2nd relay another pair get connected as well for the Down.
All this is so that the capacitor can be swapped between coils in the motor afaik. Not to worry, just look at the schematic and realise that there are 3 pairs of wires that need connecting together but you are only connecting 2 pair of wires together at a time. The relay contacts do that instead of you pushing a switch. This is all at lethal voltage so never muck around inside these things with the power on. Also the capacitor can hold a charge for a long time, even overnight so watch out for that.
I think Google are deleting my comment. Build my link with some stuff in front of it. Use https as well as the www part.
dropbox.dot/s/15gzw56xmyadd25/Transfer%20switch%20connections%20to%20relays.jpg?dl=0
Finally, change the dot to a . for the link to work.
Great video and well thought out
Thank you. Be sure to follow me. I will post some videos of how it turns out.
Thanks, very instructive, you're good, when will you make the follow up video showing the set up in a box, Dave from Ottawa Ontario
Great question. Once I get it done lol. It is still hanging in the attic as it was. I need to get that done before it gets hot. Thanks for the reminder. I will order a bud box.
@Joe thank you for the video, I'm actually doing a very similar project right now and wanted to know based on the wireless transmitter you showed:
1. Do you still need to connect the motor wires to the wireless transmitter? From your wiring and description it doesn't seem so
2. Is it still possible to wire-in some manual buttons for the hoist? The wiring diagram on your transmitter doesn't show that as an option, but what I'm getting online now has this (the manual buttons) as an option.
3. Have you completed your project? How is the transmitter holding up thus far?
Really appreciate this video as it cleared up a lot of questions that I had
Glad you liked it.
1) no. In fact, you can overload the controller if you aren't very careful. I just used the controller to trigger the relays.
2) I think you could wire in a manual button, but the remotes work so well, I don't see a need. The manual buttons would just trigger the relays like the transmitter does.
3) I still have the relays screwed to my header board LOL. I have a nice plastic bod to put them in, but haven't done it yet. Check out my video on the pool pump timer. It shows the same box I plan to use.
@@joefishengineer1 I didn't even check the inrush / startup current of the motor!...completely forgot about it...Thought that it would be less than 10amps! But your solution would eliminate those issues! Excellent!!! Thanks again for your response...might consider wiring in some manual buttons. BTW....I looked at the pool pump vid...gave clarity!
I just used your video to wire mine up. Worked great, but where you have the neutral, hot up, hot down wires coming from wireless remote to switches is incorrect in your video. It's on the other side of remote, next to the power supply, marked reverse/common/forward, under the M mark
Thanks for pointing that out. Can you give me a time on the video so I can figure out what is wrong? It has been a long time since I made this video. Glad it worked for you.
Thank you Joe for such an awesome video! I just set mine today and it works great with exception of the down button that is not working presently and i need to troubleshoot it.
Any insight is welcome.
Great thanks to RK for pointing out the correction on the outgoing wires from the wireless to the contactors. It works great. Apprectiate it again
@@mannoa3639 👍
Hi RK, When you say the connections are incorrect, and the controller is backwards, Do you mean that all the wires should be on the (Neutral / Hot) side and have the common, forward and reverse come from tht side also?
Right at the start you said there would be a link to a video on how motor reverse happens. This information would help those who do want to understand how it's done. It's not there.
Sorry, Here are a couple of links.
ruclips.net/video/Mnz82o1XYeg/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/5_Tc8m-jRdI/видео.html
@@joefishengineer1 Thanks Joe.
Joe, Thanks for the video. I am doing the same thing, trying to make a remote hoist from a manual. I'm new at this so my question in relationship to your wiring diagram, Do I need any of the capacitors at all? I have a 110v, 20 amp wireless controller?
I would not remove any capacitors. Your system probably needs them to start the motor.
Are the contacts on the wireless controller for the up and down 110 v or are they dry contacts
Is it possible to connect directly from dinamo to the forward reverse sockets which is next to the neutral and hot sockets on thw wireless module? So we don't need contactor to control up and down via manual remote control..
I think it would overload the controller
@@joefishengineer1 Thanks for the reply,if use a 30A wireless module controller should no worry for overload. What i'm worrying is the start capacitor. Here is the link for the 30A wireless module..Beli Wireless Motor Controller AC 220V 30A 433MHz - Remote AK1000 tokopedia.link/ZzfjZqdQVgb di toko Modules Store Rp225.000 di Tokopedia dengan Bebas Ongkir, Sekarang!
I haven't tried it because i'm not sure if directly connect from dinamo to forward reverse socket, the function which is theoretically just act as trigger to the dinamo, will or will not harm the dinamo circuit system. Would appreciate if you have further suggestion..🙏🙏
The seller of this module is using it to control his mini hoist..but because of the complex wiring system,we are still discussing before connecting to the forward reverse socket. FYI
Joe, I followed your excellent instructions and ended up with a functioning wireless remote control for my Champion 440/880 hoist. But my 3 button controllers are very erratic in momentary mode. Any help you can give me is appreciated. I cannot tell what brand controller I have (Amazon). Thanks, Tom G.
Excellent. Glad the video helped. I would swap modes and see how it responds. I would consider sending it back if the controller isn't stable. One other thought. When I am lifting with mine, the load sometimes causes the cable to hit the shutoff bar. If the load shifts when it stops, the motor will restart.
@@joefishengineer1 Joe, another question. I had no success trying to change the mode to latching. I think I have a bad controller. Can you recommend another particular controller that will work and is still available for sale? Is a particular brand name better reputed/documented? Thanks again for your help, Tom G.
@@tomgebhart1185
On the one I have, you use a jumper to change the mode. Here is one I would try. I can't comment on brands as it is the only one I use.
www.amazon.com/Wireless-Control-Electric-Forwards-85V-250V/dp/B07T598T52/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07T598T52&psc=1
@@joefishengineer1 Complete success. Just finished installing the controller you recommended and it works GREAT. The hoist even seems to be running smoother (might just be me though). Thanks again for getting me started and then following through to complete success. Tom G.
Hey Tom. Did you ever figure out why the erratic behavior in momentary mode?
Reason I ask is I occasionally have the same problem.
Some days it runs perfect Up and Down....
Other random days not so much.
Something is definitely causing interference with the signal from remote transmitter to the remote receiver.
Just for the heck of it, I tried it today with the receiver antenna disconnected.
To my surprise, it ran Smooth all the way up and down...
Only tried it a couple times so the jury is still out.
I'm no electronics Genius, but if this does stay working smoothly I'll kick myself for not trying it earlier.
The only thing I can think of is that with the antenna connected, the receiver is picking up interference from somewhere further away?
And I'm assuming most of us have the remote close enough to the receiver, that it doesn't need the extended 400 or so foot range with the antenna connected.
Thanks for any input!
Edit: 10 minutes later I answered my own question..
It did Not work.
I have 3 remotes. One remote was super choppy. I going to test the battery voltage on all remotes to see if there's anything out of the ordinary?
Maybe Old Stale batteries were sent with the unit?
Maybe I just got a Lemon Remote/Receiver combo?
I wish there was a more robust remote option to purchase instead of this cheap china crap.
What would you do differently if you have capacitor
What do you mean? My system has a capacitor. If yours has 2, I would still wire it this same way. The contactors carry all the load so an additional capacitor should not hurt anything. The second capacitor is probably connected to one of the switch terminals so you would move it to the corresponding terminal on the contactor.
Joe White , oh, I didn’t see your capacitor in the wiring diagram.
I have my 4.7A 220lb hoist hooked up without the contactors and the down motion works well but going up stops every half second
I have same wireless controller in video and a partsam hoist
share.icloud.com/photos/0e_4LZ87usp2wJY-2rkNVdJbQ#Englewood
share.icloud.com/photos/0peEQh-07AJQlLgvpG-sRDljA#Englewood
@@grafmontgomery I would try running it through the contactors. It is a cheap experiment. The remote module may be overloading.
Joe White thanks for extra help...yeah I have done that, but the side you have connected for up/down in your video is for inputs from a manual switch
The output from the wireless remote are The three terminals on the other side next to L/N, labeled forward, reverse and common.
When I connect it as in video to DPDT 120v contactor, the thing has a seizure and gets stuck in a loop when energized
@@grafmontgomery I only have the remote connected to the coils on the contactors and to a power wire that is plugged in. No energy goes through the remote directly to the crane. This protects the remote from overload.
Do you have a stop switch? If so, try unhooking it.
Do you have an updated remote link for amazon I can buy? Thanks!
I'm trying this one... Motor Wireless Remote Control Switch 110V 220V AC 10A High Power Roller Shutter Door Electric Curtain Remote Forwards Reverse, Wide Voltage 85V-250V 433MHz RF Remote Control Relay
RUclips hates links these days. A-holes.
Unfortunately not. This little relay seems to have gone off the market. It is a shame because it was great. There are others out there that are very similar though. Search wireless relay remote on ebay or Amazon and you should be able to find one. I pasted a link to a 12v powered one below, but don't know if it will get stripped off. If you end up using one you like, let me know and I will update the notes
www.ebay.com/itm/363702221678?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JqxDSv0NQSK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=3FRqzCVxT9q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Here is another one that someone else put in the comments. It has up/down/stop and can be powered by 110v so this is probably the way to go. The remotes aren't as sleek, but looks like the same basic unit.
Check this out! a.co/d/cKq6nkP
@@joefishengineer1 Thanks Joe for the suggestions. I don't care what the remotes look like. I'll report back how I did.
Joe.. It doesn't work hooked to the 3 terminals as you show here. But it works fine using the other 3 on the opposite side. Also, inside the box is a jumper switch, L and S should be hooked together.
Hi, I have done the project and it lasts only for 1 day, I`m not an expert, So my hoist now causing FATAL electric problem when attached to power. even when i detached anything i added, I checked the connection and they all connected (short circuit), I disattached the controller and find out that the main motor has a short circuit.
I know that i used un-suitable remote switch, with 24V relays instead of 220V .... But how can i fix the motor now?
Probably take it to a motor shop.
Another thought. Take a look at the switching mechanisms and see if they are stuck. If they arched and got stuck, you may be able to break them free. Also try rotating the motor manually.
@@joefishengineer1 do you have the link to the other video of this remote setup in the project box?
@@kennyruhl3613 I am not sure what you are asking. Can you clarify?
The wireless remote in your link is no longer available on Amazon. Is this the same one?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJCTJPW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1BFYDAQL5I59&psc=1
Also, your diagram in the video shows the inputs on the receiver going to the contactors. I believe that should be showing the outputs of the receiver going to the contactors.
That is not the same one, but it should work. The key is to have an output to trigger the 2 different contactors. Good catch on the output/input. The output of the remote triggers the two contacts. Here is another one to consider www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Wireless-Remote-Switch-12V-Universal-2-Channel-RF-Remote-Control-433Mh/203187241982?hash=item2f4ee743fe:g:hM4AAOSwJiBftkd1
@@joefishengineer1
I just purchased the receiver James had listed, because the ebay link is dead.
I wired it up up to the contactors, but i'm not sure if it is done right.
Should the contactors be making a noise when the current is passed through them, as the switch engages? The receiver makes a click but I am not hearing anything from the contactors.
@@allfauxone9951 well give it a shot and see what happens. Hopefully you don't let the smoke out of it lol.
Do you mean that the Common/Down/Up should be wired to the other side, on the reverse, common, and forward?
@@allfauxone9951 The contactors generally make noise when the are activated. The easiest way to tell if things are working properly is to test continuity on either side of the contactor. When it is active (meaning that 120 v is applied to the activation coil), continuity will be seen between the 2 sides of the coil.