how to install vents in metal roofs
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2023
- This video has dryer vents as well as plumbing and electrical vents. If you want more information on the snips I use you can find it here. • how to cut metal roofing . I would also note that i had raised metal underneath the sides eliminating the need for sealant on the sides. If i did not have that much metal or without a raided area i would have also used sealant there.
This style of install is the best way I have found that works. You have to work with the hand you're dealt and think like water!
There's alot of videos out there showing how to trim out windows with J metal etc, but none that show roof flashing like this, hopefully your method works for me to. Thanks for sharing. :)
Make sure you have enough overlapping metal on the sides. If you do not then add some sealant. Every install is always a little different. I have never had any leak. Glad you like the video. I will shoot a video on the proper way to cap today.
I’m so glad you showed the roof truss. I was wondering about that
Hi, great video..... I have a question though..... can you use abs pipe (with an upside-down U at the top) to vent instead of these tin vents? That way you can use the rubber boot flashing designed for metal roofing.
You could use abs. The only problems is that you would need screen on the end...a easy fix as you can heat hardware cloth and set it. The real issue is there is a flap seal in the unit. Without it you may create a chimney and loose allot of heat.
I am a licensed roofing contractor in the high elevation, heaviest snow load area in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Any vent or vent pipe needs protection with a heavy steel 10 gauge snow splitter. When I have an ABS vent pipe coming through the roof. I will splice the roof panel. To go over the flashing. I learned a long time ago, there are 30 ways to skin a cat, and 20 of them are right. We also use Grace ice & water shield over the left and right side and top of the flashing, then the spliced panel goes around the flashing keeping the flashing tail exposed. Your way works where your from. Not where I work.
Yes heavy snow works way different than rain. Have you ever used pleated lead skirt. It is really nice flashing but is hard to come by. It came with skylight flashing kits. I used on a job that had 17 skylights.i used iced and snow rubber flashing around the skylight then metal over that. Thanks for commenting
No! When installing a metal roof with skylights in a heavy snow load area. We install a skylight ramp, that diverts sliding snow over the top of the skylight. It prevents damage to the curb and skylight. The skylights have loaded glass, that comes with engineering calculations for 300 lbs per sq. ft. of snow on the roof. @@honeybeehomesteading
Been looking for same idea for cutting hole in tin corrugated roof
But this is so far the best and looks like most useful will definitely try and let you the result
Try to center over the ridge. If you can't then you might need to do a fold under the flashing. I am going to do another video on some scrap showing the underside and even testing it with water.
it works
That roof vent should have 2 parts one from underneath the roof metal sheet. The other on top. Intall the undrneath part first. Then connect the top part from above top of the roofing sheet. That's an easy installation.
Do you not seal the rib at the top of the vent?
In this case no as the vent itself protects the rib from blowing rain. That being said it would not hurt to seal it, especially if as in a high snow area where it could build up enough to have the water run uphill.
Best to do a roof panel splice. It going to leak eventually. I work in a very heavy snow load area.
Where do you think it would leak from? Everything other than where the vent slips under the roofing at the corners has a good overlap. I haven't had one of these leak ever even in snow. With the slightly open bottom I could see a scenario where the snow dams everything and during melting maybe the water runs uphill for 3 inches but I have not seen that unlikely scenario happen. Thanks for commenting
11:46 and 16:42 are the same scenes. Why did you dupe it?
Thanks for pointing that out. I didn't mean to dupe it. I must have accidentally added a section of the video twice. Hopefully I didn't waste much of your time. Thanks for watching
@@honeybeehomesteading No waste; it just confused me at first and I thought you'd like to know. I like that detail at the top of the cap, though I'm not so sure about how you did the front. I think I would cut that rib so the cap fits in behind it, but cut the rib in a way that I can seal the gap by folding the cut metal over it and adding sealant to it.
@@RichSobocinski you can do it that way but you are relying 100 percent on sealant as the bottom the vent would be below the metal on the lower side. Plus you would have to install the metal sheet over the vent which would be a nightmare if the roof was already in place. Another option is a lead skirt transition that is the slickest most water tight way but that material is not easy to come by. I will shoot another video on how to install that in the future
@@honeybeehomesteading I understand about relying on the sealant. I know that area is going to be the one of concern. If I notch the vent cap to fit the rib, then the rest of the vent sits on top of the roofing. Thinking I can flash around that vulnerable rib. ??? (I actually have to do this soon, so I'm giving it a lot of thought).
If you are going to go that route I would install snow and ice shield underneath the vent. It is a self adhesive rubber that is easy to work with. I don't know how you will notch the vent around a rib as it is flat metal. Good luck and I hope your plan works.
Thanks, I think you did a great job. But I'm not sure why you wouldn't use caulking on the underside edges. Logic would demand caulking. I see water/snow possibly getting in there on a windy day. Comparing to the standard roof vent boot, caulking is used on sides as well. In fact you used caulking on your standard vent boot sides. Why not use metal caulking? Thanks
So with this install you will notice there are slightly raised areas on on the roofing between the ridges of the roofing. This prevents water from running sideways into the hole. You can use sealer on the sides if you want as it will not harm anything as long as you are care ful where you put it on the bottom raised area of the vent. You only want to put caulk below the hole to prevent blowing rain. If you caulk across the bottom and you get some water under the vent but on top of the roofing you may cause a dam where the water could build up and flow inside. Make sense?. Caulking the sides is fine. This install just went through the snow with no issues. Thanks for commenting.
Anyone cut a profile of the tin vent interface and form the vent to it?
The vent skirt will not do complex angle. You can only get it to bend on the sides not in the center. I have used flashing with a lead skirt to form over the tin profile. It works great but is very hard to come by. I have only found it with skylight flashing kits.
Question about that large kitchen vent: Would you mind providing a spec for that? Clean work, thanks.
Here you go Imperial VT0568 6-Inch R2 Premium Roof Vent Cap with Collar, Black a.co/d/8kSvCvq
@@honeybeehomesteadingappreciate that.
@@honeybeehomesteadingand that small vent is a broan exhaust cap correct? I have the same ones on my roof with that house and blowing air logo.
@@charlesrodriguez7984 it might be. I bought it off of Amazon. 4 inch roof vents are not that common. I imagine one factory cranks them out for several brands.
@@honeybeehomesteadingbut there’s TONS of different brands and styles out there that are all really similar so this could be from any brand. Broan is just the most common choice of roof cap in my area and in the north/mid west areas.
Thx
Any time
u didn't close up the rib running into the vent? shouldn't u put something in there?
@@larryfisher4290 the vent itself protects the rib from blowing rain. If the vent is not centered below the rib that would not be the case. The main problem it you want to leave enough space from the rib and the flashing so the water can drain off and not fill under the rib.
Like This Like Tips What GA Metal Cutting Here in this Video .. , Thanks
It is 26ga
use white if worried about heat in attic lol, reflects sun
The white is much cooler but I have way to many white oak trees near my house. The sap will cause mildew. The white would require yearly pressure washing. The charcoal gray hides it completely.
I for One - always Place Down 100% Ice & Frost Protection - Especially on Metal - I get GRACE stone Free Version - Pay more but it's Really Waterproof Roof that You Wish to Have . Metal is there to Protect Your Water Proof Roof ( Got That ) . .
i use a tarp style underlayment designed for under roofs. you can never have too much protection. that being said metal roofs are way more unlikely to leak vs asphalt shingle. i have had both for 2 decades each
Top end goes under bottom on top
You could Vent the gable ends rather than cut the metal on the slope. Or use vented ridge caps made for metal. I appreciate your idea but I would not use it on any roof of mine. And I have thousands upon thousands of square feet of metal roofs in my yard. To the guy who said to screw the metal down on the ribs rather than the flat, there is no manufacturer that recommends that.
I have multiple buildings as well. This install was on my house a year ago. I have installed this system with no issues over a span of twenty years. one with 15 skylights. And compound valleys.,.it was a real joy. As far as your idea yes gables would have been great but they were too far in either direction about 65 ft. You can only run those things so far. In this case it is a dryer vent so that is a fire hazard. Vented ridge caps are not allowed for dyer vents once again lint is very flammable. That's for watching and commenting
So you’re ok with that vent having a 2” flange coverage? And those big gaps on the front where you’ve bridged over the rib? This entire instal is relying on caulking to hold the water out. This is NOT best practice.
No underlayment
No visible air ventilation
I truly mean no disrespect but this roof will have problems.
It's not like they make the flange larger on a small roof vent like this one. I am not relying on caulk to prevent leaking as you would say but gravity. But there is nothing wrong with using caulk as all the commercial boots require a sealant. As far as the gap underneath over the rib. Without the use of a lead skirt you will have a gap or you could use a small piece of the cap foam underneath but it would need to be extensively trimmed.. This will work for most but not all installs. If you are in a heavy snowfall area or on the coastal plane where you can have horizontal rain. this would not be the way to go. This method works with zero leaks even with moderate snow. this vent is on my house currently. we have had some crazy rainfall and snowfall....zero leaks.
No vents in the roof?
Not in the traditional way. I put perling strips along the roof which provides a air gap.. It originally had some direct vents close to the peak. I left the holes. The heat and moisture in the attic can the travel up through the holes then in the ridges and out the gable ridge cap. Metal roofs are much cooler than asphalt due to the convection along the ridges. Having the metal on that half of the house cut my energy usage by 10 percent this summer.
You started out by cutting slots on bottom side,upside down on vent then wasted another sheet of metal at the end of video to make it right.I guess we all make mistakes
No bill that is the same piece of metal. I moved the camera from the end of the peak to the side so you could get a better view of the cut and insertion. You can see the end of the metal after I moved the camera. Had it started upside down the camera would have been 12 ft away at the start of the video. Thanks for watching and yes we all make mistakes but this was not one of those days. Thanks for watching
bro needs to figure out the difference between red and green snips
I have red and green snips. Work great for curves but I prefer orange for straight cuts
@@honeybeehomesteadingSame here.
The bad thing about these video's is take way to long to get to the point. Way to much explaining everything
You are right I do spend a lot of time explaining how to do something. I think that is why people are watching the video. To learn how to do something which makes take more explanation for some viewers than others. I think you would have this type of complaint with channels that make you watch till the end and purposely extend the video time.
Wow thats not correct at all
Wow it doesn't leak. I always prefer to use a boot that is designed for metal roofing but when you have a fixture that is not this method works great as I have never had one leak. Please enlighten us as to how it is wrong.
@@honeybeehomesteadingI am putting attic vents in….how should I do it?
I have a metal roof and plan to use box vents.
@@qdogggp if you have a metal roof you should not need additional attic vents as long as you have vents in the gables. Metal roofs are cooler than asphalt due to the ribs creating connection currents. You still need some venting in the attic to keep moisture from building up. Gable vents are easier to install.
Dude, your screws holding the roof down are totally in the wrong spots. They are supposed to be on the top of the ridges, Not on the flat part. For sure that roof is going to leak.
That is incorrect. The old 5 v roofing was nailed in the ridges. Modern roofing with a classic rib with screws not nails is screwed in the valleys. The big advantage is that the roofing becomes structural when screwed in on a proper schedule in the valleys . Before installing any roofing you should check the manufacturers screw schedule to make sure it you do it properly. This roof was installed according to their schedule.I have done dozens of roofs with tens of thousands of screws used, zero leaks.Thanks for watching
Look at your metal documentation. Gets screwed on flats.
Screws on flats. The raised area is for expansion.
Leave the rib and cut out the metal on the vent. Is how I do it