You are my 'go to' person on RUclips for anything knitting. I use this cast on pretty regularly, now that I understand it. I particularly liked how you removed the knitting off the needles to show how the stitches formed the tube. Thank you!
You are my knitting angel! If you only knew what I have been through to learn the tubular cast-on! If only I had watched you first and not been so impatient to "get going" on it. I feel you have provided such a thorough explanation and demonstration of this amazing technique! My knitting knowledge has greatly increased with knowing more about double knitting, using the provisional cast-on and the tubular cast-on. In my humble opinion, you certainly rank right up there with gurus Elizabeth Zimmerman and Barbara Walker! Thank you , thank you!
I know this is 4 years after you've posted this video, but I have learned so much! I am a fairly new knitter and am beginning a project that's a pretty big leap in skill level for me. I am probably responsible for 100 views of this video in the last week alone! But I've gotten the tubular cast on finally. You explain things so well, and even though I have to look up a bunch of terms and techniques, and refer to some of your earlier videos (GREAT structure and detail in how to do all that), you've helped me launch this next level of my knitting. Thank you so very much.
Everything she said stands for me too. I haven't heard of this cast on till I saw a hat pattern that calls for it. Very well explained with good colors in examples easier to see. Thank you!!
Same here……shall keep this person close to my knitting station:) I have tried countless videos before hers and WOW . Such an awesome teacher!!!! It is so beautiful!!!!
I agree, too! I've been knitting all my life - I'm 65! I use the provisional cast on in the round for socks, but I need the flat cast on for the neck of a cardigan. There are always new things to learn in knitting. Love you lots, Roxanne!❤ 😘💕💕
Oh wow this is such a simple way to understand the tubular cast on! I’ve been watching tutorials the last hour and could not figure it out. Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for your clear explanations :D i'v been knitting (and crocheting) for more than 20 years, and I only recently learned about tubular cast on, but never trying. And today was the day :D
I've watched so many tubular cast on tutorials but none so complete with a step-by-step explanation as this. Thank you! I've now subscribed to your channel.
The best demonstration of a tubular cast on. Period! I have watched several different versions and this is the easiest to understand and follow along to. Also, taking out the provisional cast on was a breeze. Thanks so much for getting my project off to a smooth start.
FYI something about your teaching method, plus holding yarn on the left (it hurts my head to see yarn in the right hand I can’t translate it well) makes your videos my favorite of all the options out there. I’ve been rewatching this video 20 times now (would have been less if I took notes but I only just thought of that XD. And I can rewatch without problem because it’s so well done. Truly not sure what it is about your mannerism or word choice or both. But you rock! I love the look of the tubular cast on and want to knit a kids hat for this little girl I want to teach to knit some day. When she’s ready. I’m hoping the hat inspires her creativity and drives her to want to learn how to do it. The better it looks the more success I’ll likely have in my goal. (Which of course she’s a child and we can just play hide and seek if she isn’t into it but I have a feeling based on what I know of her that she loves to learn )
Roxanne, your teaching methods are like a breath of fresh air... Thank you so much for your clear and concise “how to” videos, and this tubular cast on method is the best I’ve seen. Also, I just love your Casual Friday videos... always so very interesting.
You do rock! You always spend more time (organizing and editing) so we don't have to. You manage to give more instruction, and clearer demonstration than almost any others, and in half the time. Thank you!
Thank you so much Roxanne for this demonstration. I have never done tubular cast on before and i'm knitting this summer tee pattern with 97 stitches to cast on and I'm using a pure linen yarn. It felt impossible with the method that was suggested by the pattern designer and I almost gave up. Luckily I remembered looking if you have a video on this and of course you have! It's so effortless compared to the other method and I'm no longer afraid of tubular cast on now!
This is the best illustration and explanation of a tubular cast on that I have found! I so appreciate your work… 7 years on, and your series on crochet cast on, provisional cast on, and tubular cast on are still EXCELLENT!
It has been some years since I last knitted anything and I had forgotten how to do this cast on. The video is very well presented with extemely clear instructions and commentary - thank you so much!
I have been trying and trying and trying to get this right. I've watched more RUclips videos on this CO than I can count. But I finally got it thanks to your awesome tutorial. THANK YOU!
This method is soooooo much easier than all the other methods of tubular cast-on that I have seen so far. Definitely going in my toolkit for future use. Thanks!!
Great tutorial, Rox! Very good explanation and you educate so knitters understand why the tubular cast on is "tubular. When you understand why a certain cast on works, I find it easier to remember. Thanks!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! This was the easiest tubular cast on I've seen. Absolutely wonderful!!!! I've tried others and this one is by far the BEST!! What a blessing you are!!!
This really helped me to see it done, and to see why it's called tubular cast on. If my book had a few more pictures and used more space for explanations you gave, then I would've felt more confident going through their instructions. I learned more than I thought I would in this video. A++
Thank you for the tutorial and for the information about your tutorial list, it's like Pandoras box a real treasure, I never knew that before. Thank you for your fantastic knowledge. Take care.
Wow! You explained this so well. I did this for a sweater by just following the directions, but I didn't really understand what was going on. I really love how this cast on looks and look forward to using it often. Thank you so much!
Thank you, Thank you. I learned this tubular cast on with crochet. Until I found you, I had forgotten how to do it. My stocking hat will fit so much better.
Thank you so much for this! I did a different version on the sleeves of a sweater, but had to correct some very loose stitches which was incredibly annoying. I tried your method on the bottom of the sweater and it turned out great! No tweaking needed. This will be my go-to now.
Wow. Will wonders never cease! I'm always learning something new from you. Not sure when or if I'll use this but, I know where to go, to find it. Thanks for posting.
This was a great video and very helpful. I am wondering now how to join in the round. I'm worried it will have a "hole" since I've already knitted 4 rows.
Do you have any recommendation on how to make it look neater when you join in the round for the tubular cast on? Mine looks like there is a notch missing.
I have the same problem! I tried using the tail to close it up and kind of faux duplicate the missing bits but I'm not smart enough to get it to look right lol.
Woohoo! This is great! I’m already a huge fan of the provisional crochet cast on technique so now I love it even more! This tubular method is so easy compared to the other methods. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for your channel! I subscribed, of course. I followed your other video to make a 2x2 tubular rib and it looks amazing. (Tip: there’s another way to reorder the 2 stitches. I learned it from the Sockmatician channel - Slip2TOG knitwise to the right needle which automatically swaps the order. Then put them back on the left needle 1 at a time, then proceed knitting in the 2x2 pattern.)
Yep this is what I was looking for! I got a knit sweater passed onto me and am trying to “read” the stitches used. Can I send you a photo of finished pattern pieces to help me figure out the stitch? It looks like a couple rows are a cable stitch of some kind. Thank You! Delma😀🧶
I love this cast on, but man it's hard to join it in the round without a massive gap! I think I'm doing something wrong, but I'm not sure where. I did the setup rows and then joined, but at the start of the round I have a huge gap even though I tried to pull the yarn tighter to avoid this. I'll just have to use this for straight knits I think, can't seem to make this work in the round
I like the look and method of this CO, until I add more rows of ribbing. Then I get a couple of rows of really wonky looking sts before it evens out again. It seems to be a product of changing needle sizes, and I've tried just going down one size for the CO which makes the problem less severe, but still not attaining an acceptable result. Is there a fix for something like this? For this project, I need only 1" of ribbing; would it be terrible to just keep doing the double knitting rows and then join with the larger needle size on the last row of ribbing?
even if you so fast doing..i repeated watch it until i understand the pattern, thanks for the instraction of tabular cast on.. i am a pilipino.. but i try to use write english..
Very helpful and clear instructions. I would like to know how to finish weaving in the cast on tail so that it looks neat and practically invisible. I'm making a hat using the tubular co in the round with 1x1 ribbing, and I'm wondering how to finish it off neatly.
The project I am starting will use size 6 for the body and size 5 for the ribbing (size 4 for the ribbing was too tight). Where you state to use 2 sizes smaller than project needles does that mean I should use size 4 or size 3 to start the tubular cast on? Update - I did test swatch on size 5's that was too loose, test swatch on size 4 was good. Sooo - I figured it out. Thanks for all your very helpful videos.
Thank you so much for this video! I could not get the hang of the tubular cast on and I’m finding more and more patterns calling for this type of cast on. I basically taught myself to knit and only learned the knit cast on, so I kind of put myself at a disadvantage early on.
I find that the edge spreads too much if I don't use a smaller needle. I would suggest working a couple of swatches to see whether you prefer going down needle sizes or if you prefer using the same needle.
Yes, as Rox says, it makes a big difference, as I learned by trying. I did one with the same size needle and it was too bulbous. Then I did it with one needle size down and it was perfect.
Sock cast-ons for cuff-down. I've been knitting nothing but toe-up socks for years now, but I've decided that I would like to do a few from the cuff down. I have been using the CWCO, but I find that the small hook and the fine yarn lead to a lot of splitting. So, I'm looking for a nice stretchy cuff down CO. Is this it? I've done a lot of LOCT and TGLTCO but find that they do bind at my legs due to swelling. I don't have any problems knitting toe-up and using a sewn bind-off. I would appreciate your expert opinion. Thanks! and as always, you are my go-to instructor!
Typically, you need to adjust your technique for how you do a given CO when knitting cuff down, because the CO edge has to stretch as much as the fabric, and the fabric has to be able to stretch to its maximum around the mid-calf and across the heel diagonal. So it isn't the specific CO that makes a difference, it's ho you work the CO in that situation. This video might help ruclips.net/video/O9R_Ki4SeW4/видео.html
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks, Rox. I don't have a problem with the socks going over my heel cuz I just make the flap a bit longer. Learned that years ago! I did watch most of your sock tips and cast on vids before I posted the question. I knit a lot of dishcloths, too, and my LTCO and crochet cast-ons are never too tight for the fabric. Unfortunately, cotton fabric won't stretch as much as wool, so I am struggling with making my sock cast-ons stretchy enough.
@@sandeleh Again, the CO has to stretch as much as the fabric. If the CO doesn't stretch as much as the fabric, then it will be too tight, so you may need to adjust the way you are working your CO so that you get more stretch out of the edge, by doing something like spacing the CO sts further apart from each other as you CO. If the CO is stretching as much as the fabric, but the sock leg is still too tight, then you might need to change your stitch count. Making the heel flap longer increases the circumference of the heel diagonal, so you can get the sock heel past your heel. It doesn't enlarge the CO edge.
I love the look of this cast on. I'm making fingerless mitts will this have a stretchy edge ? The yarn i a fingering wt. will this cast on work with that wt, and size 3 needle ? Thank you
It should be stretchy enough for fingerless mitts. The needle size you use will depend on what gauge you're trying to get, and whether or not size 3 will give you that.
I have a question. I have done the tubular cast on, and then joined in the round after the first row in my pattern, as you suggested in the video. How do I then join or seam the tubular cast on rows which were worked flat? Would love a video showing this! Thanks!
Would this work for a sweater knit from neck down that you want to come back after knitting the sweater and add a hood? As in: the pattern doesn't have a hood.?
I'm planning to use this cast on for a sweater using bulky yarn and size 9 needles, but for the ribbing at the bottom I'll be using size 7 needles. Would I still need to go down one or two needle sizes from the size 7 to a size 6 or 5, or is the size 7 fine since I'm already two sizes smaller than what I'll be using for the body?
It's exactly what I wanted to learn. Thank you so much. By the way, I am knitting now a scarf with double knit. It is so nice and it turns out to be a very good scarf
🫢😳🎊🎉🎊I DID IT!!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 YAYYYY!!!! Thank you so much! I watched so many tutorials, but this one made the most sense to me! I kept trying to talk myself out of trying it 😅, but I’m so glad I did!!!! Thank you so much for all your tutorials! I love them!!! I did join in the round after 4 rows…so the gap from the bottom, I’m assuming I use the tail to close it up? 🤷🏽♀️ Thanks again so much! I love to make beanies and this CO is awesome!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻💯🎉🎊🎉
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you for sharing your wonderful talent with all of us in you tube land. I am a new subscriber and I’ve been playing catch-up. Thanks again. 🌸
Thank you 🙏 I tried so many methods without success. They worked with a sample but the minute I tried with a larger number of stitches it got nasty. I was just about to give up then I watched this video and tried again. Success 💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼it was the different coloured yarn working the slip or purl pumps so I could read my knitting 🧶😘😘😘😘😘
often in sweater patterns, it calls for a smaller needles for the ribbing. can i use the smaller ribbing-sized needles for the cast on or should i use an even smaller set of needles? i cast on with the ribbing needles and it seemed a little loose/squishy, but i dropped a couple of stitches and i’m not sure how to fix it so i think i’m going to start over..
If the ribbing is to be worked on smaller needles than the body of the sweater, and the cast on row calls for working on a smaller needle than the rest of the ribbing, then, yes, you would need 3 needle sizes. For example, if the pattern calls for US 5 for the ribbing and US 7 for the sweater body, you'd use a US 3 or 4 for the CO, and then switch to the US 5.
Thank you for your wonderful, informative videos. Will you please do one on the bind off that matches the tubular cast on? I think that they would be a good look.
Thanks for your suggestion! I do have that on my list of video ideas (it's one of a handful of bind offs that match a cast on), so maybe I should do those sooner, rather than later, eh? :-)
I have a question about row counts. So by my count we have 5 set-up rows: the yarn over-knit one row and then the four repeated ones with alternating slip and knit stitches. Here's the question: When I'm following a pattern that calls for a specific number of rows, do I count any, some or all of these 5 rows in the row count?
It depends on whether you are using a pattern that calls for a tubular CO and you are using this method, instead of the one the pattern calls for, or if you are using a tubular CO in a pattern that does not specify the CO method. If you're using a pattern that just says, "CO X sts, and work 5 rows" then you have completed the CO when you have the full number of sts on the needle (the yo, k1 row does that), and then every 2 set of RS/WS set up rows are counted as 1 row. In addition, with any pattern, you're always free to work more rows or fewer of ribbing, based on your own preferences.
Best use is with k1p1 ribbing. Any sort of project *except* those where you need the edge to stretch as much as the maximum capability of the fabric. For most people, the cuff of a sock does have to stretch as far as the fabric is capable (50% more than the resting state of the stockinette) in order to get past the heel and to hug the leg just below the calf muscle, so it's probably not a good choice for socks that hit that length. Might work find for shorter socks, though, assuming the leg the sock is for doesn't change circumference dramatically in that short length. It's great for hats, mittens, sweaters, etc. Those garments need the CO edge to stretch, but the fabric doesn't need to stretch as much as a sock cuff.
I think I got the t-shirt at a vendor marketplace at a knitting event, years ago. The needles are Signature Needle Arts 32'' fixed length circular needles.
This is the best video I’ve seen for this method and I’ve watched a few. Great job and thanks! I think I’ve got the technique now. And I’ve added you to my faves so I can refer back as needed.
Hi Rox, I know you’ve already answered questions about how to join in the round, but I was wondering if you could please elaborate on how you use the tail to do this? I’m at a total loss. Thanks!
thanx for the great tutorial! but i have a question: could you make the whole ribbing as a double knitting (repeating first 4 rows of slip and knit) and then just start knitting in the main pattern?
It's *physically* possible. It's double knitting, which has lots of uses. I recently made a belt using double knitting, because I felt like it would be less annoying than working 12 sts in the round for 5 or 6 feet. Whether that result is desirable for the ribbed edging of your project is uncertain. I would suggest swatching.
One small question. Does these 4 rows count as the rib pattern? My pattern tells me to rib1x1 for six rows. So taken that the tubular cast on has already 4 rows, do I only do four more? Thanks. Love all your videos. Wish you lived here in the Canberra,Australia Capital Territory so I could go and have lessons
The tubular CO doesn't create an edge, so I would probably count those set up rows as either 0 or 1 row of ribbing. If you are working multiple pieces for the same project, and they all have to have 6 rows of ribbing, the point is consistency between the pieces, and a desired length of the ribbing, rather than needing to have an exact number of rows. So pick a number of rows to work, and just be sure to work the same number on all the other pieces, if there are any.
There are always multiple ways of doing things, and often very different processes result in exactly the same outcome. The only way to know if you will get a neater result with a different process is to try them both on swatches and then compare. You might find the results are the same, but one of the processes is easier or more efficient for you. Another knitter will find the opposite to be true.
Your technique looks very simple. If I use this, as it is called for in my pattern, can I follow the patter by doing P2, K2 for the ribbing? Thanks, Francine Rauu
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I’m going to knit the Ranunculus which calls for this cast on and the video they provide was not very helpful (at least for me). You’re the best!!!
Your explanations of what's happening in a technical sense plus clear visuals make the best tutorials- as always!. Thank you so much, Roxanne! Would this cast on work for a 1x1 seed stitch as well as 1x1 rib?
It should. With seed stitch, you'll probably want to start working the pattern after working 2 setup rows. With ribbing, you could work another 2 setup rows before working in ribbing without disrupting the pattern. Seed stitch relies on knitting the purls and purling the knits, so 4 setup rows might not look quite right. I would recommend swatching and see what you think.
You are my 'go to' person on RUclips for anything knitting. I use this cast on pretty regularly, now that I understand it. I particularly liked how you removed the knitting off the needles to show how the stitches formed the tube. Thank you!
She is my Nerd 👍🏻🥰
You are my knitting angel! If you only knew what I have been through to learn the tubular cast-on! If only I had watched you first and not been so impatient to "get going" on it. I feel you have provided such a thorough explanation and demonstration of this amazing technique! My knitting knowledge has greatly increased with knowing more about double knitting, using the provisional cast-on and the tubular cast-on. In my humble opinion, you certainly rank right up there with gurus Elizabeth Zimmerman and Barbara Walker! Thank you , thank you!
I know this is 4 years after you've posted this video, but I have learned so much! I am a fairly new knitter and am beginning a project that's a pretty big leap in skill level for me. I am probably responsible for 100 views of this video in the last week alone! But I've gotten the tubular cast on finally. You explain things so well, and even though I have to look up a bunch of terms and techniques, and refer to some of your earlier videos (GREAT structure and detail in how to do all that), you've helped me launch this next level of my knitting. Thank you so very much.
Everything she said stands for me too. I haven't heard of this cast on till I saw a hat pattern that calls for it. Very well explained with good colors in examples easier to see. Thank you!!
Same here……shall keep this person close to my knitting station:)
I have tried countless videos before hers and WOW . Such an awesome teacher!!!!
It is so beautiful!!!!
I agree, too! I've been knitting all my life - I'm 65! I use the provisional cast on in the round for socks, but I need the flat cast on for the neck of a cardigan. There are always new things to learn in knitting. Love you lots, Roxanne!❤ 😘💕💕
I have looked at about 10 videos on tubular cast on. This is the best. I keep coming back. Thanks.
Oh wow this is such a simple way to understand the tubular cast on! I’ve been watching tutorials the last hour and could not figure it out. Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for your clear explanations :D i'v been knitting (and crocheting) for more than 20 years, and I only recently learned about tubular cast on, but never trying. And today was the day :D
Fantastic cast on, I was panicking about taking the waste yarn out but it was so easy. Thank you so much for your brilliant help.
I've watched so many tubular cast on tutorials but none so complete with a step-by-step explanation as this. Thank you! I've now subscribed to your channel.
The best demonstration of a tubular cast on. Period! I have watched several different versions and this is the easiest to understand and follow along to. Also, taking out the provisional cast on was a breeze. Thanks so much for getting my project off to a smooth start.
You have to be one of the best teachers I have come across - thank you SO much for your very helpful and well-explained tutorials. 💛
Aw, thank you! I'm glad you find my videos helpful.
I want your t shirt I say that all the time ❤️❤️
Every tutorial I’ve watched is just fantastic. I always come here first now. Thanks for being awesome
FYI something about your teaching method, plus holding yarn on the left (it hurts my head to see yarn in the right hand I can’t translate it well) makes your videos my favorite of all the options out there.
I’ve been rewatching this video 20 times now (would have been less if I took notes but I only just thought of that XD.
And I can rewatch without problem because it’s so well done.
Truly not sure what it is about your mannerism or word choice or both. But you rock!
I love the look of the tubular cast on and want to knit a kids hat for this little girl I want to teach to knit some day. When she’s ready. I’m hoping the hat inspires her creativity and drives her to want to learn how to do it.
The better it looks the more success I’ll likely have in my goal. (Which of course she’s a child and we can just play hide and seek if she isn’t into it but I have a feeling based on what I know of her that she loves to learn )
I come back to this video every time, thank you for sharing it! ❤
Roxanne, your teaching methods are like a breath of fresh air... Thank you so much for your clear and concise “how to” videos, and this tubular cast on method is the best I’ve seen. Also, I just love your Casual Friday videos... always so very interesting.
You do rock! You always spend more time (organizing and editing) so we don't have to. You manage to give more instruction, and clearer demonstration than almost any others, and in half the time. Thank you!
Oh my gosh this helped me to understand the tubular cast on so much more. Thanks Roxanne.
Excellent demonstration and explanation. I think I will finally remember how to do this cast-on!
Thank you for all your great videos. You explain everything so clearly.
Thank you so much Roxanne for this demonstration. I have never done tubular cast on before and i'm knitting this summer tee pattern with 97 stitches to cast on and I'm using a pure linen yarn. It felt impossible with the method that was suggested by the pattern designer and I almost gave up. Luckily I remembered looking if you have a video on this and of course you have! It's so effortless compared to the other method and I'm no longer afraid of tubular cast on now!
This is the best illustration and explanation of a tubular cast on that I have found! I so appreciate your work… 7 years on, and your series on crochet cast on, provisional cast on, and tubular cast on are still EXCELLENT!
It has been some years since I last knitted anything and I had forgotten how to do this cast on. The video is very well presented with extemely clear instructions and commentary - thank you so much!
I have been trying and trying and trying to get this right. I've watched more RUclips videos on this CO than I can count. But I finally got it thanks to your awesome tutorial. THANK YOU!
This method is soooooo much easier than all the other methods of tubular cast-on that I have seen so far. Definitely going in my toolkit for future use. Thanks!!
You really rock! Thanks for the best tutorials.
Glad you like them!
Great tutorial, Rox! Very good explanation and you educate so knitters understand why the tubular cast on is "tubular. When you understand why a certain cast on works, I find it easier to remember. Thanks!
Wow, not as difficult as it looked, or sounded. Thank You, Rox. Happy healthy, New Year.
I adore you…you continually instruct and things make sense…I love learning the how & why.😊❤😊
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! This was the easiest tubular cast on I've seen. Absolutely wonderful!!!! I've tried others and this one is by far the BEST!! What a blessing you are!!!
This really helped me to see it done, and to see why it's called tubular cast on. If my book had a few more pictures and used more space for explanations you gave, then I would've felt more confident going through their instructions. I learned more than I thought I would in this video. A++
Thank you, this is such an easy tubular cast on. Thank you!
Thank you for the tutorial and for the information about your tutorial list, it's like Pandoras box a real treasure, I never knew that before. Thank you for your fantastic knowledge. Take care.
Excellent tutorial. So useful. Thank you Roxanne. 🇬🇧
Wonderful video. I appreciate the detail you provide and the clarity of the instructions. Thanks!
excellent tutorial! thanks for putting this out there!
Wow! You explained this so well. I did this for a sweater by just following the directions, but I didn't really understand what was going on. I really love how this cast on looks and look forward to using it often. Thank you so much!
Thank you, you are the best kind of teacher.
Thank you, Thank you. I learned this tubular cast on with crochet. Until I found you, I had forgotten how to do it. My stocking hat will fit so much better.
What a precious video.😊
Thank you so much for this! I did a different version on the sleeves of a sweater, but had to correct some very loose stitches which was incredibly annoying. I tried your method on the bottom of the sweater and it turned out great! No tweaking needed. This will be my go-to now.
This was so clear and concise! Thanks so much.
Concise .Thank you teacher.
Wow. Will wonders never cease! I'm always learning something new from you. Not sure when or if I'll use this but, I know where to go, to find it. Thanks for posting.
This was a great video and very helpful. I am wondering now how to join in the round. I'm worried it will have a "hole" since I've already knitted 4 rows.
Thank you thank you thank you! This is so clear, and this whole series helped me identify the right cast on for my pattern.
Do you have any recommendation on how to make it look neater when you join in the round for the tubular cast on? Mine looks like there is a notch missing.
I have the same problem! I tried using the tail to close it up and kind of faux duplicate the missing bits but I'm not smart enough to get it to look right lol.
Brilliant and elegant!
This will be my favorite cast on for tubular knitting. Thanks so much.
Excellent tutorial, thank you!
Thank you!! Learned crochet cast on and tubular cast on! Very clear. ☺
Wonderful!
Thank you! You are a great teacher.
Very clear and helpful instructions, thank you. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful video. You saved my tubular cast on! Thank you very much!
I was surprised that I understood that! Ok, you demonstrated one by one rib. What if I want two by two rib?
Woohoo! This is great! I’m already a huge fan of the provisional crochet cast on technique so now I love it even more! This tubular method is so easy compared to the other methods. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for your channel! I subscribed, of course. I followed your other video to make a 2x2 tubular rib and it looks amazing. (Tip: there’s another way to reorder the 2 stitches. I learned it from the Sockmatician channel - Slip2TOG knitwise to the right needle which automatically swaps the order. Then put them back on the left needle 1 at a time, then proceed knitting in the 2x2 pattern.)
I knew double knitting and crochet cast on but not the tubular. So cool!
Yep this is what I was looking for! I got a knit sweater passed onto me and am trying to “read” the stitches used. Can I send you a photo of finished pattern pieces to help me figure out the stitch? It looks like a couple rows are a cable stitch of some kind.
Thank You! Delma😀🧶
I would recommend posting a photo in Ravelry, and asking for help there. That's the best way to get something like that figured out.
@@RoxanneRichardson oh okay I didn’t realize I could do that! Thank You for the suggestion Roxanne 😀
I love this cast on, but man it's hard to join it in the round without a massive gap! I think I'm doing something wrong, but I'm not sure where. I did the setup rows and then joined, but at the start of the round I have a huge gap even though I tried to pull the yarn tighter to avoid this. I'll just have to use this for straight knits I think, can't seem to make this work in the round
i have this same issue and have been scouring youtube to find a method that fixes this!
I just join in the round and start knitting and then go back at the end and seam up the little gap. I haven’t seen a better way of managing that.
I like the look and method of this CO, until I add more rows of ribbing. Then I get a couple of rows of really wonky looking sts before it evens out again. It seems to be a product of changing needle sizes, and I've tried just going down one size for the CO which makes the problem less severe, but still not attaining an acceptable result. Is there a fix for something like this? For this project, I need only 1" of ribbing; would it be terrible to just keep doing the double knitting rows and then join with the larger needle size on the last row of ribbing?
This was so clear and helpful - thank you so much! I will be using this to cast on my first sweater :)
I'm glad you found it helpful. Good luck on your sweater!
even if you so fast doing..i repeated watch it until i understand the pattern, thanks for the instraction of tabular cast on.. i am a pilipino.. but i try to use write english..
Very helpful and clear instructions. I would like to know how to finish weaving in the cast on tail so that it looks neat and practically invisible. I'm making a hat using the tubular co in the round with 1x1 ribbing, and I'm wondering how to finish it off neatly.
That's a nice idea for a video. You are not the first person to wonder about how to do this! :-)
The project I am starting will use size 6 for the body and size 5 for the ribbing (size 4 for the ribbing was too tight). Where you state to use 2 sizes smaller than project needles does that mean I should use size 4 or size 3 to start the tubular cast on? Update - I did test swatch on size 5's that was too loose, test swatch on size 4 was good. Sooo - I figured it out. Thanks for all your very helpful videos.
The needle size difference for casting on is relative to whatever you're planning on using for the rest of the ribbing.
Thank you so much for this video! I could not get the hang of the tubular cast on and I’m finding more and more patterns calling for this type of cast on. I basically taught myself to knit and only learned the knit cast on, so I kind of put myself at a disadvantage early on.
Thank you for this video. I was finally able to do a tubular cast-on.
Working on a hat with super bulky yarn and using your tubular cast on. Whuch technique would you recommend for joining in the round?
Love, 💕 your t-shirt!!!
Beautiful finish and so clearly explained. Thanks
This cast on is becoming one of my favourites! Just one question ... why use smaller needles to cast on and knit the tube?
I find that the edge spreads too much if I don't use a smaller needle. I would suggest working a couple of swatches to see whether you prefer going down needle sizes or if you prefer using the same needle.
Yes, as Rox says, it makes a big difference, as I learned by trying. I did one with the same size needle and it was too bulbous. Then I did it with one needle size down and it was perfect.
Sock cast-ons for cuff-down. I've been knitting nothing but toe-up socks for years now, but I've decided that I would like to do a few from the cuff down. I have been using the CWCO, but I find that the small hook and the fine yarn lead to a lot of splitting. So, I'm looking for a nice stretchy cuff down CO. Is this it? I've done a lot of LOCT and TGLTCO but find that they do bind at my legs due to swelling. I don't have any problems knitting toe-up and using a sewn bind-off. I would appreciate your expert opinion. Thanks! and as always, you are my go-to instructor!
Typically, you need to adjust your technique for how you do a given CO when knitting cuff down, because the CO edge has to stretch as much as the fabric, and the fabric has to be able to stretch to its maximum around the mid-calf and across the heel diagonal. So it isn't the specific CO that makes a difference, it's ho you work the CO in that situation. This video might help ruclips.net/video/O9R_Ki4SeW4/видео.html
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks, Rox. I don't have a problem with the socks going over my heel cuz I just make the flap a bit longer. Learned that years ago! I did watch most of your sock tips and cast on vids before I posted the question. I knit a lot of dishcloths, too, and my LTCO and crochet cast-ons are never too tight for the fabric. Unfortunately, cotton fabric won't stretch as much as wool, so I am struggling with making my sock cast-ons stretchy enough.
@@sandeleh Again, the CO has to stretch as much as the fabric. If the CO doesn't stretch as much as the fabric, then it will be too tight, so you may need to adjust the way you are working your CO so that you get more stretch out of the edge, by doing something like spacing the CO sts further apart from each other as you CO. If the CO is stretching as much as the fabric, but the sock leg is still too tight, then you might need to change your stitch count. Making the heel flap longer increases the circumference of the heel diagonal, so you can get the sock heel past your heel. It doesn't enlarge the CO edge.
I love the look of this cast on. I'm making fingerless mitts will this have a stretchy edge ? The yarn i a fingering wt. will this cast on work with that wt, and size 3 needle ? Thank you
It should be stretchy enough for fingerless mitts. The needle size you use will depend on what gauge you're trying to get, and whether or not size 3 will give you that.
I have a question. I have done the tubular cast on, and then joined in the round after the first row in my pattern, as you suggested in the video. How do I then join or seam the tubular cast on rows which were worked flat? Would love a video showing this! Thanks!
G
Do you have a video for a tubular cast on in the round? Thank you! I love your videos!
I typically do the setup rows as shown, and join in the round after the setup is complete.
Hi, I know this video is 5years old, but I'd like to ask 9:25 how do I join in the round? Just start knit? Doesn't it create a gap between both edges?
Would this work for a sweater knit from neck down that you want to come back after knitting the sweater and add a hood? As in: the pattern doesn't have a hood.?
How would I use this cast on for a 2x2 ribbing?
I'm planning to use this cast on for a sweater using bulky yarn and size 9 needles, but for the ribbing at the bottom I'll be using size 7 needles. Would I still need to go down one or two needle sizes from the size 7 to a size 6 or 5, or is the size 7 fine since I'm already two sizes smaller than what I'll be using for the body?
It's exactly what I wanted to learn. Thank you so much.
By the way, I am knitting now a scarf with double knit. It is so nice and it turns out to be a very good scarf
Great explanation!!!
So well explained, thank you!
🫢😳🎊🎉🎊I DID IT!!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 YAYYYY!!!! Thank you so much! I watched so many tutorials, but this one made the most sense to me! I kept trying to talk myself out of trying it 😅, but I’m so glad I did!!!! Thank you so much for all your tutorials! I love them!!!
I did join in the round after 4 rows…so the gap from the bottom, I’m assuming I use the tail to close it up? 🤷🏽♀️
Thanks again so much! I love to make beanies and this CO is awesome!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻💯🎉🎊🎉
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you for sharing your wonderful talent with all of us in you tube land. I am a new subscriber and I’ve been playing catch-up. Thanks again. 🌸
I adore your shirt!
Thank you 🙏 I tried so many methods without success. They worked with a sample but the minute I tried with a larger number of stitches it got nasty. I was just about to give up then I watched this video and tried again. Success 💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼it was the different coloured yarn working the slip or purl pumps so I could read my knitting 🧶😘😘😘😘😘
often in sweater patterns, it calls for a smaller needles for the ribbing. can i use the smaller ribbing-sized needles for the cast on or should i use an even smaller set of needles? i cast on with the ribbing needles and it seemed a little loose/squishy, but i dropped a couple of stitches and i’m not sure how to fix it so i think i’m going to start over..
If the ribbing is to be worked on smaller needles than the body of the sweater, and the cast on row calls for working on a smaller needle than the rest of the ribbing, then, yes, you would need 3 needle sizes. For example, if the pattern calls for US 5 for the ribbing and US 7 for the sweater body, you'd use a US 3 or 4 for the CO, and then switch to the US 5.
Best ever explanation! You’re a fantastic teacher! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. 👏🏻
Thank you for your wonderful, informative videos. Will you please do one on the bind off that matches the tubular cast on? I think that they would be a good look.
Thanks for your suggestion! I do have that on my list of video ideas (it's one of a handful of bind offs that match a cast on), so maybe I should do those sooner, rather than later, eh? :-)
Thank you very much. I look forward to seeing it.
I have a question about row counts. So by my count we have 5 set-up rows: the yarn over-knit one row and then the four repeated ones with alternating slip and knit stitches. Here's the question: When I'm following a pattern that calls for a specific number of rows, do I count any, some or all of these 5 rows in the row count?
So I posted that before I'd seen the whole video. So I'm guessing based on your explanation that I should consider the whole enterprise at 2 rows?
It depends on whether you are using a pattern that calls for a tubular CO and you are using this method, instead of the one the pattern calls for, or if you are using a tubular CO in a pattern that does not specify the CO method. If you're using a pattern that just says, "CO X sts, and work 5 rows" then you have completed the CO when you have the full number of sts on the needle (the yo, k1 row does that), and then every 2 set of RS/WS set up rows are counted as 1 row. In addition, with any pattern, you're always free to work more rows or fewer of ribbing, based on your own preferences.
@@RoxanneRichardson Great! Thank you. Also thought the slip knot of the main yarn to the waste yarn is brilliant btw!
What would be the best use of the tubular caston? The bottom of a sweater, the tops of socks?
Best use is with k1p1 ribbing. Any sort of project *except* those where you need the edge to stretch as much as the maximum capability of the fabric. For most people, the cuff of a sock does have to stretch as far as the fabric is capable (50% more than the resting state of the stockinette) in order to get past the heel and to hug the leg just below the calf muscle, so it's probably not a good choice for socks that hit that length. Might work find for shorter socks, though, assuming the leg the sock is for doesn't change circumference dramatically in that short length. It's great for hats, mittens, sweaters, etc. Those garments need the CO edge to stretch, but the fabric doesn't need to stretch as much as a sock cuff.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you so much!
I love your T-Shirt!!!!!
great tutorial! 2 questions: Where did u get your t-shirt? and what brand are your circular needles? tks!
I think I got the t-shirt at a vendor marketplace at a knitting event, years ago. The needles are Signature Needle Arts 32'' fixed length circular needles.
This is the best video I’ve seen for this method and I’ve watched a few. Great job and thanks! I think I’ve got the technique now. And I’ve added you to my faves so I can refer back as needed.
Terrific! I'm glad you found the video helpful. :-)
Hi Rox, I know you’ve already answered questions about how to join in the round, but I was wondering if you could please elaborate on how you use the tail to do this? I’m at a total loss. Thanks!
I would also like this as well. Especially with this method of cast on
thanx for the great tutorial! but i have a question: could you make the whole ribbing as a double knitting (repeating first 4 rows of slip and knit) and then just start knitting in the main pattern?
It's *physically* possible. It's double knitting, which has lots of uses. I recently made a belt using double knitting, because I felt like it would be less annoying than working 12 sts in the round for 5 or 6 feet. Whether that result is desirable for the ribbed edging of your project is uncertain. I would suggest swatching.
One small question. Does these 4 rows count as the rib pattern? My pattern tells me to rib1x1 for six rows. So taken that the tubular cast on has already 4 rows, do I only do four more? Thanks. Love all your videos. Wish you lived here in the Canberra,Australia Capital Territory so I could go and have lessons
The tubular CO doesn't create an edge, so I would probably count those set up rows as either 0 or 1 row of ribbing. If you are working multiple pieces for the same project, and they all have to have 6 rows of ribbing, the point is consistency between the pieces, and a desired length of the ribbing, rather than needing to have an exact number of rows. So pick a number of rows to work, and just be sure to work the same number on all the other pieces, if there are any.
Thanks very much for this! I usually start double knitting without using the crochet cast-on. Do you think the latter creates a neater edge?
There are always multiple ways of doing things, and often very different processes result in exactly the same outcome. The only way to know if you will get a neater result with a different process is to try them both on swatches and then compare. You might find the results are the same, but one of the processes is easier or more efficient for you. Another knitter will find the opposite to be true.
@@RoxanneRichardson OK! Thanks for the speedy reply.
Love it!! You are so clear and precise, I must give this a go! Have you made a video for the matching cast off ?
I haven't, but that is a good suggestion. Thanks! :-)
Your technique looks very simple. If I use this, as it is called for in my pattern, can I follow the patter by doing P2, K2 for the ribbing? Thanks, Francine Rauu
There's another video in this series that shows how to use a tubular CO to do 2x2 ribbing.
Brilliant as always......is it possible to do a 2 x 2 tubular rib?
Yes, it is! I'm working on a bonus video for this week that will explain how to do that. :-)
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I’m going to knit the Ranunculus which calls for this cast on and the video they provide was not very helpful (at least for me). You’re the best!!!
Thank you so much.. This was so clear and a great demonstration!
Your explanations of what's happening in a technical sense plus clear visuals make the best tutorials- as always!. Thank you so much, Roxanne! Would this cast on work for a 1x1 seed stitch as well as 1x1 rib?
It should. With seed stitch, you'll probably want to start working the pattern after working 2 setup rows. With ribbing, you could work another 2 setup rows before working in ribbing without disrupting the pattern. Seed stitch relies on knitting the purls and purling the knits, so 4 setup rows might not look quite right. I would recommend swatching and see what you think.
Roxanne Richardson brilliant - thanks! I will swatch with two set up rows to see.