Yes I have done a number of them on concrete floors. Same way, just attach to the stringer. Thank you for the comment and glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers Scott
Scott I keep falling back on your RUclips channel when I have questions about fasteners and newel post installation methods haha! I see you've been on a similar journey and you're always a few steps ahead, thankfully, with great answers. I checked these out a few years ago but never ordered them. I checked out Kinzel but they don't ship to Canada. Do you have a source that ships this way?
I order mine from cooperstairworks.com and have them sent to a postal place in Minnesota about 40 minutes from my place. I’m sure they would ship direct. Cheers Scott
They used to come in a little cardboard box. Then the plastic bag. Strange that they don't have instructions. I will see if I have a hardcopy and email them to you. Scott
@@gregschultz8871 Yes technically you can. My concern would be scratching the floor when you screw the post down onto the floor. Hope this helps, Scott
I do a dry fit first and see how the post is sitting in its final position and make a slight adjustment with a cut or you can slip a small spacer underneath on the final - like a tip from a utility knife blade. Cheers, Scott
So far I've only used the Fas-N-Fast if I know there's joist hangers or steel beam/angle in the floor. My go-to is the Super UT Zipbolt. Occasionally I will cut a hole in the flooring plywood and lag or bolt the post right into the floor joists. (Depends on what the building inspector wants too...)
Thank you Vince. Can you level the tread from underneath with spacers or wedges? You may have to cut a square hole in the tread and insert the newel post. ruclips.net/video/Se_xOTjuVys/видео.html
@@VinceBrooks-hd9pl I'd have to see a picture. Go to my website and send me an email with the picture and maybe I can answer that. www.scottearlsmith.com
I installed this and the floor is slightly unlevel. How can I plum this post with out leaving a gap at one side of the post. Also I don't even know which side will face the low side cause it spins on. Not sure how to get it plum. It's only a 1/4 inch out at the top.
Crank it down tight and put a piece of tape on one side as a reference. Then figure out what side to shim. Use a piece of utility knife blade (like an Olfa) as a shim. That should get you the 1/4”. If it’s a corner post you can easily pull the post with the railing when you install it.
@scottearlsmithFTC Thanks, the problem I am unsure about about is each time I spin it down a different side faces the low end. Because the center spindle threads into both it always shows a different face to the low side.
@@eldenboy11 Ok. See if there’s a consistent side and mark that. All I can think of at the moment. You’d be able to pull that post a 1/4” with a railing if it’s on a balcony.
@scottearlsmithFTC thanks, it is on a balcony. But how would I pull the post with the rail? The rail will be attached at the bottom and them at the post, due to spindles in the way. I figure it would just pivot out of line. That's part of the reason I want to plum it so thebrailnclears the nosing on the floor. Oh, the outnof plum is left to right. Vs the horizontal rail attaching front to back. It that makes sense. The the diagonal Raul the goes to the floor below attaches the the face the is leaning away from the stair well.
I'm sure that someone sells them in Texas but if you go to this supplier you can order from them directly. Here is the link. kinzelwoodproducts.com/stair-hardware/ Thanks for your question, Scott
Awesome fixing, anyone ever installed on polished concrete. Very common floor finish in Australia. Much love
Yes I have done a number of them on concrete floors. Same way, just attach to the stringer. Thank you for the comment and glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers Scott
Great video thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you Daniel! Cheers, Scott
Thanks and God bless you brother
Thank you for the encouraging message Francesco. God bless you as well!
Hi Scott Great video as always sir and that's a very smart way to hide the fasteners, Keep those video coming. Its always nice to learn something new!
Thanks again Rick. I will keep them coming!
Scott I keep falling back on your RUclips channel when I have questions about fasteners and newel post installation methods haha! I see you've been on a similar journey and you're always a few steps ahead, thankfully, with great answers. I checked these out a few years ago but never ordered them. I checked out Kinzel but they don't ship to Canada. Do you have a source that ships this way?
I order mine from cooperstairworks.com and have them sent to a postal place in Minnesota about 40 minutes from my place. I’m sure they would ship direct. Cheers Scott
Hey there! Do you think this would support a 8” round baluster being used as a table base fixed to wood floor?
I think it would support it. But depending on the bracing you have on the table it may wiggle over time. Worth trying for sure. Thanks, Scott
Appreciate this. I ordered some of these fasteners and they came in a clear plastic bag with no instructions.
They used to come in a little cardboard box. Then the plastic bag. Strange that they don't have instructions. I will see if I have a hardcopy and email them to you. Scott
I took a photo of the instructions. Email me if you'd like me to send you the picture.
Could you do this over an existing hardwood floor?
@@gregschultz8871 Yes technically you can. My concern would be scratching the floor when you screw the post down onto the floor. Hope this helps, Scott
How you leveling the post if the subfloor or finished floor is not level ?
I do a dry fit first and see how the post is sitting in its final position and make a slight adjustment with a cut or you can slip a small spacer underneath on the final - like a tip from a utility knife blade. Cheers, Scott
Hi Scott. How does this compare to zip bolt? Do you prefer one over the other? Thx
So far I've only used the Fas-N-Fast if I know there's joist hangers or steel beam/angle in the floor. My go-to is the Super UT Zipbolt. Occasionally I will cut a hole in the flooring plywood and lag or bolt the post right into the floor joists. (Depends on what the building inspector wants too...)
Thankyou so much
You’re welcome. Glad it helped. It’s a good option for newel posts.
Hello thank you for your video, how strong would you say these are?
You're welcome. If your screws are into solid structure it would be as strong as any other newel post connection. Cheers Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC and what are the odds of always landing on the framing with these, such a small space.
@@WAUCE7 Most of the time you will hit the rim joist and you can add blocking if you have access to underneath.
What size bit is that for drilling out where the excess of the screw is recessed into the floor?
3/4-inch. Thanks for reaching out.
Great video, want to install on tread, but it's not level, how would I compensate for that?
Thank you Vince. Can you level the tread from underneath with spacers or wedges? You may have to cut a square hole in the tread and insert the newel post. ruclips.net/video/Se_xOTjuVys/видео.html
Thanks Scott, can I drive shims under the tread, or do I have to loosen the tread? It's the first tread, so there isn't much room underneath
@@VinceBrooks-hd9pl I'd have to see a picture. Go to my website and send me an email with the picture and maybe I can answer that. www.scottearlsmith.com
awesome work Sir!
Thank you Matt!
I installed this and the floor is slightly unlevel. How can I plum this post with out leaving a gap at one side of the post. Also I don't even know which side will face the low side cause it spins on. Not sure how to get it plum. It's only a 1/4 inch out at the top.
Crank it down tight and put a piece of tape on one side as a reference. Then figure out what side to shim. Use a piece of utility knife blade (like an Olfa) as a shim. That should get you the 1/4”. If it’s a corner post you can easily pull the post with the railing when you install it.
@scottearlsmithFTC Thanks, the problem I am unsure about about is each time I spin it down a different side faces the low end. Because the center spindle threads into both it always shows a different face to the low side.
@@eldenboy11 Ok. See if there’s a consistent side and mark that. All I can think of at the moment. You’d be able to pull that post a 1/4” with a railing if it’s on a balcony.
@scottearlsmithFTC thanks, it is on a balcony. But how would I pull the post with the rail? The rail will be attached at the bottom and them at the post, due to spindles in the way. I figure it would just pivot out of line. That's part of the reason I want to plum it so thebrailnclears the nosing on the floor. Oh, the outnof plum is left to right. Vs the horizontal rail attaching front to back. It that makes sense. The the diagonal Raul the goes to the floor below attaches the the face the is leaning away from the stair well.
@@eldenboy11 The only thing I can suggest is FaceTiming me and show me the situation. Is that possible?
Scott, do you know who the manufacturer of that is?
I don't know who makes the product but it is distributed by Cooper Stairworks www.cooperstairworks.com Hope that helps, Scott
Where I can get those fasteners in Texas???? Thank you
I'm sure that someone sells them in Texas but if you go to this supplier you can order from them directly. Here is the link. kinzelwoodproducts.com/stair-hardware/ Thanks for your question, Scott
How do you plumb the post?
You cut the post and dry fit. Then trim the cut on the post to make it plumb if necessary.
Hi were do I get this kit from?
In the US, www.cooperstairworks.com Thank you for the comment.
What stain was used on the post?
Thanks for your question. Sansin Purity Interior #3450 Special Walnut. I believe it was coated with Finitec Commercial hybrid clear coat.
@@scottearlsmithFTC Fantastic, thank you!